\         •/ 

\/ 


J^ 


\  J 


LIFE   IN   BBA-ZIL; 


OR. 


I  Snnrnol  of  c  itsit 


TO     THE 


LAND  OF  THE  COCOA  AND  THE  PALM. 

WITH    AN    APPENDIX. 


CONTAIN  I  NO 


ILLUSTRATIONS  OF  ANCIENT  SOUTH  AMERICAN  ARTS, 

IN  RECENTLY  DISCOVERED  IMPLEMENTS  AND  PRODUCTS  OF  DOMESTIC 

INDUSTRY,  AND  WORKS  IN  STONE,  POTTERY,  GOLD, 

SILVER,  BRONZE,  &c. 


BY  THOMAS  EWBANK, 


WITH    OVER    ONE    HUNDRED     ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Of    TH£ 

UNIVERSITY 

OF 


NEW     YORK: 
HARPER    <t    BROTHERS,    PUBLISHERS, 

PEXKT.     STREET,     FRAXKLIV     SQTARK. 

1856. 


LIBRARIAN'S  FUND 
n  \M. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  one  thousand  eight 
hundred  and  fifty-five,  by 

UAHPER  <fe  BROTHERS, 

in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  Southern  District  of 
Xew  York. 


P  1!  E  F  A  C  E. 


THE  present  times  are  the  beginning  of  a  fresh  chapter  in 
man's  history,  and  look  not  unlike,  the  opening  of  a  new  epoch 
in  the  development  of  his  being.  Habits  and  impulses  hither 
to  rudimental  seem  ready  to  burst  into  maturity,  as  if  the  larva 
state  of  his  existence  was  closing,  and  he  was  about  to  use 
wings  as  well  as  feet — an  age  of  locomotion,  and  the  prelude  to 
one  of  flight. 

Nature  always  presages  marked  changes  in  the  condition  of 
her  diversified  offspring,  and  by  indications  not  easily  mistaken. 
The  appearance  of  new,  or  an  advanced  elaboration  of  existing 
organs,  is  invariably  preceded  or  accompanied  by  corresponding- 
instincts.  A  lepidopter  is  no  sooner  fitted  for  action  in  an  ele 
ment  different  from  that  in  which  its  previous  constitution  de 
lighted,  than  it  finds  itself  impelled  to  the  exercise  of  newly- 
born  powers,  and  anon  is  off  in  quest  of  untasted  pleasures. 
The  phenomenon  of  metamorphosis  is  common  to  every  form  of 
life.  Man  is  but  an  aspiring  insect,  and  the  addition  of  instru 
ments  of  volitation  would  scarcely  surpass  in  novelty  trans 
formations  which  the  species,  according  to  some  authors,  has 
already  undergone. 

As  on  the  approach  of  migratory  seasons  with  lower  tribes, 
a  general  restlessness  pervades  society.  Classes  and  masses 
heretofore  inert  are  beginning  to  move  and  to  flutter,  agitated 
by  latent  influences.  Pede-locomotion  is  growing  obsolete,  and 
a  disposition  to  soar  every  where  manifest.  Harbingers,  too, 
of  something  like  a  general  flight  may  be  noticed  in  those  gen 
tlemen  musicians  and  ladies  of  song  now  tripping  over  the  earth 


214852 


Vi  PREFACE. 


and  making  professional  tours  round  it.     Histrionic  artists  ri-v 
valing  old  circumnavigators  ! 

Such  facts  the  world  never  witnessed  before.  What  they 
forebode  Heaven  best  knows.  If  precursive  of  a  breaking  up 
<>f  the  old  recluse  habits  of  the  species,  and  introductory  of  a 
system  by  which  distant  branches  of  the  human  family  will  be 
come  better  known  to,  and  be  led  to  the  interchange  of  senti 
ments  and  civilities  with,  each  other,  who  would  be  among  the 
last  to  feel  the  generous  impulse?  Indeed,  who,  with  health 
and  leisure,  can  now  stay  at  home  inactive — be  content  to  grow, 
remain,  and  die  upon  one  little  spot  of  this  glorious  sphere,  when 
oven  females  dance  and  sing,  and  music-masters  fiddle  round  it  ? 

These  questions  the  writer  put  to  himself;  and  the  result  was 
a  determination  to  cast  off  for  a  season  the  instincts  of  home, 
and  hie  away  to  a  region  of  butterflies  and  flowers.  Inclina 
tion  led  him  across  the  equator  to  the  verge  of  the  southern 
tropic,  where  he  found  a  succession  of  novelties  in  the  moving 
panorama  of  a  Brazilian  city  that  supplied  subjects  in  abund 
ance  for  both  crayon  and  pen. 

As  I  give  my  impressions  regardless,  in  this  politic  age,  of  the 
policy  or  impolicy  of  so  doing,  there  are  doubtless  among  them 
opinions  with  which  every  reader  will  not  sympathize.  But 
what  then  ?  The  Creator  never  designed  us  all  to  think  and 
feel,  see  and  speak,  reflect  and  write  alike.  It  is  absurd  to  ex 
pect  it,  and  worse  than  Manchegan  folly  to  get  angry  about  it. 
!  This  would  be  a  tame  world  if  all  things  on  it  were  modeled 
after  one  or  two  patterns,  and  men  were  fac-similes  of  each 
other. 

I  am  told  that  I  should  have  kept  silence  on  ecclesiastical 
matters ;  that  it  is  improper  for  laymen  to  meddle  with  them. 
I  can  only  say  I  did  not  go  out  of  my  way  to  find  them.  In 
Brazil,  religion,  or  that  which  is  so  called,  meets  you  every 
where  ;  you  can  do  nothing,  observe  nothing,  without  being  con 
fronted  by  it  in  one  shape  or  another.  It  is  a  leading  feature 


PREFACE  vii 

in  public  and  private  lite,  festivals  and  processions  constitute 
the  chief  amusements  of  the  masses — are  their  principal  sports 
and  pastimes,  during  which  tile  saints  themselves  come  out  of 
their  sanctuaries,  and,  with  padres  and  people,  take  part  in  the 
general  frolic.  To  pass  by  them  would  be  omitting  the  most 
popular  acts,  and  neglecting  the  favorite  actors  in  the  national 
drama. 

I  have  occasionally  commented  freely  on  facts,  but  I  have 
distorted  none — not  one  ;  nor  have  I  forgotten  that  South  Amer 
ican  superstitions  were  once  common,  and  that  their  rejection 
by  our  ancestors  is  of  no  remote  date.  The  world  is  still  "  a 
ragged  school."  Of  the  races  and  nations  that  make  up  its 
classes,  few  have  got  through  the  horn-book  of  knowledge  ;  and 
it  is  certain  they  never  can  be  seated  on  the  same  form  in  re 
ligion  any  more  than  in  arts,  sciences,  and  civil  polity.  The 
dogma  of  uniformity  is  opposed  to  the  organic  law  of  diversity. 

Tn  whatever  light  the  physique  of  Romanism  may  appear  to 
others,  it  is  full  of  interest  to  me.  Almost  as  purely  heathen 
as  before  the  advent  of  Christ,  it  is  a  living  and  luminous  ex 
ponent  of  pagan  mysteries  and  ceremonies.  Restore  the  old 
terms  "temples"  and  "gods"  for  "churches"  and  "saints" 
(they  are  strictly  synonymous),  and  there  is  scarcely  aught  in 
it  but  what  was  in  common  use  ages  before  the  times  of  the 
Caesars.  Churches,  their  internal  arrangements  and  accessories, 
their  store-rooms  for  machinery,  chests  and  closets  for  dresses, 
ornaments,  insignia,  and  jewels  belonging  to  the  ifnage&~|)  art 
ists  to  take  charge  of  and  repair  these;  several  shmlEs~~located 
in  one  temple,  forms  of  worship  at  them,  candles  on  the  altars, 
mass-bells,  vows,  penance,  flagellation,  pilgrimages,  pocket  and 
household  images  ;  the  various  orders  of  priests,  of  monks  and 
nuns,  habits  of  the  priests,  rosaries,  the  Inquisition  and  its  tor 
tures,  the  tonsure,  ex  votos,  holy  water  and  its  applications, 
professional  attributes  of  saints,  bodily  cures  wrought  by  and 
character  of  miracles  ascribed  to  them,  &c.,  all  belong  to  classic 


viii  PREFACE. 

and  anterior  epochs.  Bulls  of  excommunication  and  commiria- 
tion,  involving  confiscation  of  property  and  death,  are  versions 
of  those  issued  against  Alcibiades  and  other  alleged  heretics: 
so,  also,  exceptions  taken  by  enlightened  Romanists  to  such 
wholesale  cursing  are  finely  illustrated  by  Theano,  who  excused 
herself,  saying  she  was  "  a  priestess  for  prayer  and  not  for  ex 
ecration/' 

It  is  impossible  to  witness  for  the  first  time  ecclesiastical 
pageants  without  calling  to  mind  the  same  things  established 
by  the  Gentiles,  and  which  constituted  a  cherished  source  of 
their  entertainments.  No\v,  as  then,  the  business  of  a  city  is 
ever  and  anon  arrested,  its  streets  are  swept  and  strewed  with 
leaves,  the  fronts  of  the  houses  decked  with  evergreens  and  drap 
ery,  women  and  children  throng  the  windows,  country  people 
Mock  in  to  the  sight,  and  groups  of  both  sexes  are  every  where 
waiting  for  it.  At  length  appear  full-sized  statues  painted  ti 
the  life,  mounted  on  platforms,  and  borne  in  triumph  on  menV 
shoulders,  amid  crowds  of  officials  in  their  varied  costumes. 
Mitred  pontiffs,  with  their  trains  held  up  by  pages,  walk  under 
canopies,  accompanied  by  civil  magistrates  and  escorted  by  bat 
talions  of  soldiers,  the  whole  preceded  and  followed  by  cohorts 
of  priests,  monks,  lay-brothers,  and  acolytes,  with  music,  ban 
ners,  flambeaux,  staves,  censers,  symbols  on  poles,  &c.,  while 
from  the  mixed  masses  of  spectators  proceed  sotto  voce  remarks, 
reverend  and  profane,  as  each  wooden  deity  and  its  perspiring 
supporters  pass  by.  What  is  all  this  but  a  continuation  of  the 
pomps  of  Isis  and  Cybele — of  festivals  celebrated  in  honor  of 
the  gods  and  goddesses  of  Egypt,  Assyria,  Asia  Minor,  Carthage, 
( Ireece,  and  old  Rome  ?  Similar  scenes  and  performers  at  Nine 
veh,  Babylon,  Corinth,  Delphos,  and  Athens  pass  literally  be 
fore  one  ;  at  least  so  it  seemed  when  the  sight  first  opened  upon 
me  iu  Rio. 

[  believe  Romanism,  as  it  exists  in  Brazil  and  South  Amer 
ica  generally,  to  be  a  barrier  to  progress,  compared  to  which  oth- 


PREFACE.  ix 

er  obstacles  are  small,  and  there  are  native  statesmen  alive  to 
the  fact ;  but,  incorporated  as  it  is  with  the  habits  and  thoughts 
of  the  people ;  transfused,  as  it  were,  through  their  very  bones 
and  marrow;  unless  some  Kempis  or  Fenelon,  Luther  or  Konge, 
arise  to  purify  it,  generations  must  pass  before  the  scales  drop 
from  their  eyes,  and  they  become  mentally  free. 

Of  those  who  think  differently,  I  trust  none  will  suffer  their 
ire  to  glow  at  this  expression  of  an  opinion,  or  at  recitals  of 
facts  upon  which  it  may  be  based.  I  am  for  every  one  telling 
his  own  stories  and  commenting  on  them  in  his  own  way ;  and 
while  he  who,  in  doing  this,  expects  to  please  every  body,  is 
a  miller  or  the  son  of  a  miller,  those  who  insist  on  his  seeing 
things  only  through  their  glasses  are  verily  allied  to  the  com 
panion  of  ./Esop's  two  grinders  of  grain. 

Besides  Church  affairs,  I  noted  whatever  interested  me,  and 
that,  in  sooth,  was  nearly  every  thing :  arts,  manners,  customs, 
buildings,  trades,  tools,  pottery,  food,  slaves,  animals,  agricul 
tural  products,  climate,  diseases,  population,  antiquities,  &c., 
&c. ;  hence  this  volume  will  be  found  a  miscellanea  of  tropical 
life.  It  was  in  preparation  when  the  late  President  Tyler  hon 
ored  the  writer  with  an  official  appointment  in  Washington ; 
the  sheets  were  then  laid  aside,  but,  as  they  relate  to  matters 
that  are  all  but  unchangeable,  there  is  nothing  to  regret  in  the 
delayed  publication. 

WASHINGTON,  D.  C.,  1855. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

New  York  to  Hampton  Roads  :  Passports. — Wrinkled  Faces. — Bataleurs. — Rich 
mond. — Market. — Mules. — Lotteries. — James  River. — Floating  Boarding-house 

— A  Virginian  Job. — Crippled  Slave. — The  Roads Page    '"' 

I 

CHAPTER  II. 

^  T^T 

Ten  Days'  Sail:  Beatrout. — New  Sensations. — Captain  in  Costume. — A  Gale  — 
Sea-sickness. — Water  Rams. — Gulf  Stream. — Christmas  Carols. — Human  Dar 
ing. — Ship  hunted  by  marine  Demons. — Hard  Life  of  Seamen. — Cook  and  Cap 
tain. — Enchanting  Skies. — Minute  Crabs 

CHAPTER  III. 

Twenty-four  Days'  Sail :  Sea  Sorrows. — A  Genoese. — Rough  Weather. — A  Fly 
ing-fish. — Flowers  of  Death. — Oceanic  Skies. — The  Atmosphere  charged  with 
red  Dust. — Firmamental  Paintings. — Flying-fish  Latitudes. — Cream-colored  or 
Quaker  Skies. — Flying-fish  again. — A  Meniscus. — A  Squall. — A  ship  in  Dis 
tress. — A  young  Fly. — In  the  Variables. — The  Ocean  unchangeable. — Temper 
ature  of  Air  and  Water. — Brazilian  Coasts 35 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Diagram  of  the  Ship's  Motions. — The  Ravels  at  Sea. — Sailing  in  Elysium  — 
Worlds  are  Ships  of  the  Almighty  Merchant. — The  Nebulae  his  Ship-yards  — 
The  Ocean  a  Type  of  the  Sea  of  Life. — Abrolhos  and  Squalls. — Cape  Frio. — 
Land-breeze. — Sea-breeze. — Sugar-loaf. — Enter  the  Bay. — Former  Treatment 
of  Foreigners. — Table  of  Latitudes  and  Longitudes  during  the  Voyage 4? 

CHAPTER  V. 

The  Bay,  City,  and  Suburbs  from  the  Ship. — The  Forts. — I  land  alone. — The  Cat- 
tete. — A  Brazilian  Parlor. — Meeting  of  two  Brothers 51 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Almanacs. — Livery  Stables. — Carriages. — Honorable  H.  A.  Wise. — The  Host — 
Booming  of  the  Surf. — The  Matadoura. — Beeves. — Assist  at  Mass. — Esmoia 
Box. — Apollonia. — A  Funeral. — Funeral  Customs. — Mourning. — Cost  of  Mass 
es  for  the  Dead '. 62 

CHAPTER  VII. 

The  Military  Arsenal:  its  Manufactures. — Fine  old  bronze  Ordnance. — School 
— Ceremony  of  the  Hat. — Larangeiras. — Cattete  Brook  and  Washerwomen  — 
A  Brazilian  Chacara.  — Old  Portuguese  Customs.  — Butterflies.  — Fountains 


xii  CONTENTS. 

— Indian  Mrdicinc-trec. — A  Dessert  after  the  manner  of  Eden. — Uniformity 
of  tropical  Heats. — Iron  Collars  on  Slaves. — Shoes  and  Neckcloths  symbols 
of  Freedom. — The  Vicar  and  Sneezing. — The  public  Garden  an  earthly  Ely- 
sium  •  Page  71 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Sudden  Floods  and  their  singular  Inconveniences. — Discovery  of  BraziJ. Indians 

and  early  Navigators.  —  Rio  founded  by  French  Protestants. — Their  religious 
Disputes. — An  Indian  Chief  knighted.  —  His  Descendants.  —  Location  of  the 

City. — Saints  of  the  Hills. — Streets  and   Pavements. — Houses. Jalousies. 

Roofs.— Chimneys.— Spouts.— Street  Lamps.— Substitute  for  Bells  and  Door 
knockers.—  Signs.— Markets.— Fountains.— No_Sewers_or_ Sinks.— Rioji  City 
of  Quarries. — Neighboring  Mountains. — Names  of  Streets,  etc.  .  81 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Sedans. — Removing  Furniture. to  new  Dwellings. — Street  "Cries.'' Peddlers. 

Large  Lizard.— Penny  Portraits  of  Saints.— The  Intrude  and  its  Sports.— Of 

Hindoo  Origin.  —  Death  and  Burial  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Institute. Tho 

Church,  Coffin,- Corpse,  Cemetery,  and  Orations  90 

CHAPTER  X. 

The  Marimba.— Procession^annoupccd.—Unloadincr  Lime-boats.— Lapa  Convent 
and  Lady  at  Confession. — The  Campo  and  Lavandeiras. — Dog-killers. Custom 
house.— Trucks.— A  Slave  chained  to  one.— Young  and  old  Women  in  Chains. 

— Coffee  Carriers. — Crippled  Slaves.     The  Spectacle  given  up. — An  Angel. 

The  Musuem.— Antiquities,  etc.— Fathers  of  Snuff  and  the  Snuff-trade.— Orig 
inal  Snuff-mills  and  Sniffing  Apparatus.  —  Slave-traders. — Monastery  of  San 
Bento  :  its  Monks,  Chapel,  Cells,  Library,  and  Bookworms.— Sopping.— Great 
Wealth  of  this  Monastery m 

CHAPTER  XL 

Diversity  of  Complexion  in  one  Family.— Sabbath  Diversions.— Street  of  Silver 
smiths.— Its  staple  Manufactures.— Amulets.— Figas.— Lock  and  Key .— Passage 

in  Shakspearc  explained. — Eating-houses.  —  Charges. — Sneezers  "blessed." 

Priests. — Free  colored  Men. — Great  Consumption  of  Pork. — National  Dish. 

Pastry  and  Confectionery. — Heavenly  Bacon. — Francis  of  Penitence. Brother 
hoods  akin  to  modern  Odd  Fellows. — Terms  of  Admission. — Advantages. — Who 
-this  Francis  was. — Garden,  and  Electric  Eel. — CiirrentJPhilosojphy  respecting 
the  Sex. — Divination. — PrnvinriaJ  Nicknames. — Dowries  in  Cocoa  and  Coffee- 
trees. — Vegetable  and  other  Sobriquets.  —  Horsewomen. — Officers'  Wives  on 
Drill  in  Military  Costume. — Morals  of  the  Priesthood 130 

CHAPTER  XII 

Visit  to  Christoval :  native  Sheep. — Palace  of  a  Peddler. — Imperial  Quinta. — Ra 
pacity  of  the  old  Queen. — Miguel. — A  Viscount  and  his  strange  Employment. — 
Emperor's  Apartments. — Objects  of  Natural  History. — Collection  of  Coins. — 
Pfjuviajij  EgyptiajnJ_and__R;oman  Antiquities. — Laboratory.  —  Theatre,  and 
Garden  .144 


CONTENTS  xiii 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Poor  Anthony  robbed.  —  Ex  Votos.  —  Their  Manufacture.  —  Humming-bird  and  Bou 
quet.—  Affronted  Image  and  wicked  Painter.—  His  Punishment,  and  Process  of 
-  disaffronting"  the  Image.—  Imperial  Chapel  and  its  Shrines.—  Turk's  Head.— 
Barefooted  Friars.  —  Esta^io  de  Sa.  —  Slab  over  him.  —  Chief  of  the  Capuchin* 
_  Virgin's  Shoe-sole.  —  Architectural  Remains.  —  Ajuda  Convent.  —  Dumb  Wait 
er.  _  Glimpse  into  the  Interior.  —  Vestals.  —  Nuns  in  the  Ajuda,  and  their  Treat 
ment  ....................................  Pa?e  151 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Candelaria  Church.  —  Jacks  of  the  Clock.  —  Peccary.  —  God's  Stepfather.  —  Botanic 
Garden.  _  Snake.  —  Fences.  —  Dinner  and  its  Cost.  —  Catalogue  of  Plants  in  the 
Garden  ....................................................  1GD 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Goddess  of  the  Blind.  —  Her  Church,  Shrines,  and  Symbols.  —  A  Slave  consulting 
her.  —  Interview  with  her  Sacristan.  —  Ex  Votos.  —  Our  Lady  of  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope.  —  Insuring  Friars.  —  Other  Professional  and  Competing  Saints.  —  Street 


Image 


17G 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Rain.  —  Mechanical  Professions.  —  Labor  versus  Respectability.  —  Effect  on  young 
Men.  —  Building.  —  Hammer-gamut.  —  Working  Hours  and  Wages.  —  Rejoicings 
over  Rafters.  —  Masons  and  Masonry.  —  Scaifolds.  —  Walls.  —  Antiquity  of  thr 
Tools.  _  Plummet.  —  Hatchet  or  Adze.  —  Carpenter's  Bench.  —  Saw  and  Planes.— 
Mode  of  laying  Floors.  —  Doors,  Shutters,  Hardware.  —  Pavers.  —  Lithography.— 
Coppersmiths.—  Lamp.—  Slaye__Ajlisans.—  Merchants.  —  Barbers.—  Beggars.— 
Lawyers.  —  Lotteries  ..................................... 

CHAPTER  XVII 

Mate  and  Cups.  —  Sunday  Scenes.  —  Gloria  Church.  —  Images,  Vestry,  Ex  Votos. 
and  Paintings.  —  Miracles  in  behalf  of  Pedro  I.  and  one  of  his  Daughters.  —  Lady 
of  Gloria  and  a  Larangeiras  Absalom.  —  Chapel  of  the  Ajuda  grated  like  a  Jail. 
—Its  Shrines  and  Images.—  A  Penitent  licking  the  Dust.—  Public  Notice  of  a 
Procession.  —  Images,  Angels,  and  Pomp  described  .  . 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

All  Fools'  Day.  —  Streets  flooded.  —  Breaking  down  Mountains.  —  Notices  of  Festi- 
va[s  _  Flying  Visit  to  Francis  Paula,  St.  Anne,  Joaquim,  St.  Rita,  Bom  Jesus. 
and  the  Candelaria.  —  No  Animal  Oils  burned  in  Churches.  —  Carmelite  Proces 
sion  with  full-grown  Images.  —  The  Nimbus  and  its  curious  Origin  .  . 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

Palm  Sunday  :  Ceremonies  and  Customs.—  Eunuch  Singers.—  Specimens  of  Ec 
clesiastical  Advertisements.—  Benedictine  Chapel.—  Dark  Wednesday.—  A  Mer- 
ceeiro.—  Juno  Lucina  of  Rio.—  Lady  of  Civilities.—  Holy  Thursday.—  Matracas. 
—Silver  Plate  in  the  Carmo  Church.—  Kissing  a  dead  Christ  in  the  Candelaria. 
—Appearance  of  the  Interior.—  Kissing  the  Floor  and  Steps  in  the  Bom  Jesiw 
—  Plate  in  the  Paula.  —  Mine-finders  .................................  217 


xiv  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

'rood  Friday.— Capuchins  preaching. — Burial  of  Gojl. — Dresses  and  Jewels  of  the 

Angels. — Allelulia  Saturday. — Blessing  Fire  and  Water. — Paschal  Candle. 

Killing  Judas. — Church  Machinery. — Cinerary  Urns  and  Commemoration  of 
the  Dead. — Symbols  carried  by  Angels. — Boy  Monk. — Little  Prospect  of  Prot 
estant  Missions  succeeding  in  Brazil. — Mary  of  Nazareth Page  227 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

Amulets  :  the  Church  a  Mart  for  them. — Measures  of  Saints. — Royal  Touches 
and  metallic  Tractors. — Bentinhos. — Pictures  of  Saints. — Indulgences. — Hindoo 
Pictures.  —  Portable  Images.  —  Medals  of  Saints.  —  Bedini. — Symbols  of  the 

Cross.  —  Crossing  Manual.  —  Pieces   of  holy  Rock. — Hippocanthus. — Figa. 

Ashes  of  Palm. — Rue. — Love  Powder.  —  Sieve  and  Shears. — Curing  the  Be 
witched. — Negro  Witches.  —  Cures  for  Whitlows  and  Toothache. — The  Evil 
Eye. — Rio  Poulterers  troubled  with  it. — Horns  quench  it 241 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

Begging  for  the  Holy  Ghost.— The  Symbols.— Mr.  Barboza.— An  afflicted  Moth 
er- — The  City  agitated  through  Mistake. — San  Jorge. — Market. — Church  of 
Peddlers. —  Burying-ground  of  Heretics.  —  Small  Water-craft.  —  Beeves  of  the 
Sun. — Lady  of  Navigators. — M^aaahiqu£jriba]3iarks. — Church  of  Boa  Via- 
gem. — Ex  Votos  and  Miracles. — Curious  Lavatory. — View  of  the  Harbor  and 
Mountains. — Alms-box. — Ships'  Sails  vowed  to  Our  Lady,  and  sold  on  her  Ac 
count. — Indian  Boy. — Wax  offered  to  Marine  Deities  by  old  Pagans. — Other 
Heathen  Types  of  Romish  Customs 250 

CHAPTER  XXIII  , 

People  of  Color.— Twilight  and  Climate.— Barbonos  Monks.— The  Ex-Nuncio.— 
Henry  A.  Wise  recalled. — Arrival  of  the  Emperor  and  Anxieties  of  Courtiers. 
-A  new  Saint. — Mask. — Market  Incident. — St.  Peter's  Church. — N.  S.  Con- 
cei9ao. — Plaster  Images  proposed. — Collecting-days  and  Collectors. — Church  ol 
the  Mother  of  Men. — Fat  Ladies  and  Gentlemen. — Unctuous  Worship  of  N.  S's. 
Shoe-sole. — Bedini,  the  new  Nuncio 267 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Pluvial  Deity.  — Aqueduct  Records.  —  Pope  John.  —  Ecclesiastical  "Cries."  — 
Slaves. — Army  Recruits. — The  Emperor  opens  the  Legislature. — Fires  and  Fire- 
engines. —  Slaves.  —  Suicide.  —  Begging  for  the  Holy  Ghost. — Auction  of 
Steves. ". "  275~ 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

Winter.— New  Saint.— Lady  do  Parto.— An  English  Monk.— Black  and  white  In 
fants  in  Purgatory. — Auction  at  a  private  Dwelling  :  its  Furniture,  Garden,  La- 

-  res,  OjatonOjLafld  Slavp.s. — Barber's  Basin  and  Shaving-cloth. — Mass  and  Capu 
chins. — Church  of  the  Rosary,  its  Images  and  Ex  Votos. — A  sick  Man. — Old 
Slave.  —  Uncertain  Origin  of  the  Negro  Saint.  —  Ramble  through  Nicthe- 
rohy .  284 


CONTENTS  XV 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Inauguration  of  a  new  Saint :  how  the  alleged  Bones  were  procured.— Buried  in 
a  waxen  Figure.— The  Bishop's  Letter.— The  Affair  generally  condemned.— 
Bedini  and  Miranda.— The  Emperor  declines  joining  the  Procession.  —  The 
Pomp.— The  "  Area"  and  Saint  within.— Official  Account.— Newspaper  Puff— 
A  Visit  to  Priscilliana. — Miranda's  Circular. — A  French  Tribunal  on  Religious 
Impositions..  ..Page  294 

CHAPTER  XXVII. 

A  Day  for  getting  Souls  out  of  Purgatory. — Trip  to  the  Falls  of  Tejuca. — Charac 
ter  of  the  Country.— Anacharsis  and  Charcoal.— Fat  Pigs  and  Morphea.— Mills. 
—Cotton-tree.— Coffee  Plantation.— Tailless  Dogs  and  Fowls.— Process  of  pre 
paring  Coffee  for  the  Market.— Early  Notice  of  Cauphe.— The  Falls.— Dinner 
and  Dessert  at  them. — Inscriptions  on  the  Gavia  .  . 

CHAPTER  XXVIII. 
Church  Advertisements. — Auction  and  Fire-works  at  St.  Rita's  Church. — Articles 

sold. Official  Puff. — Horse-racing  in  honor  of  the  Holy  Ghost. — St.  Goncalo 

the  Friend  of  the  unmarried.— Capuchin  preaching.— Two  Slaves  given  to  the 
Friars,  and  their  Baptism  by  Bedini.— Chief  Capuchin.— Priscilliana.— Famine 
in  Ceara. — Indians  bought  and  sold 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Winter  and  Western  Islanders.— Brazilian  Names  :  their  Derivation  and  Import 
—Primitive  Patronymics.— Combinations.— Names  in  connection  with  Profes-  / 
sions. Names  of  Ships. — Pigs  and  Pig-stealing. — Invitation  to  Tea  . 

CHAPTER  XXX. 

St.  Anthony  of  Padua  :  his  Monastery  and  Miracles.— His  Rank  and  Salary  as  a 
Soldier.— Shameful  Treatment  of  his  Images.— Feast  of  the  Holy  Ghost.— Auc 
tions  and  Fire-works,  etc 

CHAPTER  XXXI. 

Vicar  and  Vintems. — Theatricals. — Barbonos  Monks  and  the  troublesome  Black 
smith.— Priscilliana.— Host  and  drunken  Bellman.— Proceedings  of  the  National 
Senate  arrested.— Slave-trader's  Office.— Anthony  of  the  Poor  :  his  Festival  and 
Tablets.— Mosquitoes  and  lazarcte— Corpus  Christi  and  St.  George.— Showmen 
and  the  Burial 349 

CHAPTER  XXXII. 

Crockery-wares  :  Talhas.— Monkey.— Moringues.— Furnaces,  Flower-pots,  etc.- 
Water-baril.— Scrubbing-brush.— Mortars.— Fuel  . 

CHAPTER  XXXIII. 


A  Trip  to  Macacu.— Steam  up  the  Bay.— Prospects.— Slaves.— Sambayratiba.— 
Dense  Mist.— Bed-chamber.— Attacked  by  Rats.— Extent  of  the  Pest.— Sugar- 
house. — Stingless  Bees. — Sheep. — ~ 
Wasps'  and  Ants'  Nests. — The  Ra 
Spoon  WTieels. — Female  Slaves  ma 
—Estate  of  the  Carmelites- — Mules 


Dense  Mist. — Bed-chamber. — Attacked  oy  rvais. — .Lxieiu  uj 
house.— Stingless  Bees.— Sheep.— Dogs  without  Tails.— Visit  other  Estates.- 
Wasps'  and  Ants'  Nests.— The  Rats  again.— Scenes  in  the  Forest.— Sipos.— 
Spoon  Wheels.— Female  Slaves  making  Brick.— Chigres.— Muleteers  camping 
--  -  361 


xvi  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

Macacu. — A  large  Tree. — Its  Form,  Dimensions,  and  extraordinary  Roots. Why 

so  few  old  Trees. — Vegetable  Origin  of  Forms  and  Ornaments. — Singular  Forms 
of  Boles. — Natural  Moulding. — The  Sloth-tree  and  Sloth. — Fabrication  of  Fa- 

rinha. — Cultivation  of  the  Plant. — Grating  and  pressing  the  Pulp. The  Tipiti. 

— Musical  Wagons. — Rats  keeping  Carnival. — Return  to  the  City  . .  .  Page  371 

CHAPTER  XXXV. 

Apollonia   and  Carasco. — Divinations. — Beatified   Galens. — The  Mizcricordia. 

Meeting  of  Isabel  and  Mary. — The  Chapel. — Emperor. — Foundlings. — Isabel 
the  Representative  of  a  Pagan  Goddess. — Manual  and  tibial  Worship. — Fourth 
of  July. — Lame  leading  the  Blind. — British  Chapel,  Preacher,  and  Prayer-Book. 
— Nictherohy. — Fine  Estate  and  its  small  Cost. — A  Paca. — The  Nuncio  de 
nounced. — Lost  Image. — Shrine  in  a  Brothel. — Legislation  invoked. — Theatrical 
and  sacerdotal  Exhibitions 384 

CHAPTER  XXXVI. 

Capuchin  Attractions:  Fireworks,  Music,  Auction,  etc.  —  The  Mint.  —  Lantern- 
bellows. — Lady  of  Lampadoza. — Balthazar. — Peter  Coelho. — A  winged  Monk.— 
A  dead  Christ  by  a  Negro  Artist. — Ceara. — How  the  Emperor  was  anointed. — 
More  Galas. — Conveying  Presents. — Interior  of  a  Drawing-room. — Proverbs. — 
The  Neckcloth. — Bedini. — British  Embassador. — Chamber  of  Deputies. — Jaunt 
to  the  Gavia. — Inscriptions. — Tailor. — Dead  Slave. — Pride  and  Piggishness. — 
God's  Grandmother. — Bedini  again. — Lady  of  Snows. — Birth  of  a  Princess. — A 
Wizard's  Stock  in  Trade  . 395 

CHAPTER  XXXVII. 

The  Corcovado  Mountain  and  Carioco  Aqueduct :  A7iew  from  chamber  Window. — 
Aqueduct  Arches. — Ascent  of  the  Tereza  Hill. — Conduit  and  receiving  Basins. 
— Romantic  Character  of  the  Work  — Section  of  Conduit. — Mother  of  Waters. 
— Paineiras  and  Pic-nic. — Forest  Features. — Ascent  of  the  Corcovado. — Vege 
table  Instincts. — Summit  of  the  Mountain. — Prospects  from  it. — Descent. — The 

Paineiras  tributary  to  the  Mother  of  Waters. — Reach  Home  by  Lamp-light. 

Subsequent  Visits  to  the  Aqueduct. — Its  Length  and  Fall. — Section  of  Channel 
over  the  Arches. — Entire  Length  of  the  Aqueduct  and  Feeders. — Water  furnish 
ed  by  it. — Might  be  conveyed  through  Tubes  into  every  dwelling. — No  Reser 
voirs  407 

CHAPTER  XXXVIII. 

Population  of  Brazil. — Diseases. — National  Income. — Police. — Literature. — Li 
brary. — Newspapers. — Character  of  Brazilians. — Slaves. — Voyage  Home  430 

.   44,5 


SKETCHES 


OF 


LIFE     IN     BRAZIL 


CHAPTER  I. 

New  York  to  Hampton  Roads  :  Passports.  —  Wrinkled  Faces.  —  Bataleurs.  —  Rich 
mond.  —  Market.  —  Mules.  —  Lotteries.  —  James  River.  —  Floating  Boarding-house. 
—  A  Virginian  Job.  —  Crippled  Slave.  —  The  Roads. 

FREE  travel  and  free  trade  are  not  yet.  The  barbarism  that 
in  the  Old  World  prevents  man  from  traversing  the  earth  and 
communing  with  his  species  at  his  pleasure  prevails  over  South 
America.  Tourists  are  not  allowed  to  step  on  nor  to  leave  the 
shores  of  Brazil  without  passports.  I  had,  therefore,  to  call  on 
the  Brazilian  consul,  and  pay  him  for  an  invoice,  or  pen-and- 
With  it  I  left  New  York  on  the  2d  of 


December,  184^  by  rail  for  Richmond,  Ya.,  to  join  the  bark 
Mazeppa,  in  which  I  had.  engaged  a  passage  to  Rio.  In  pass 
ing  through  Jersey,  crowds  were  assembled  in  every  village  in 
expectation  of  the  President's  Message.  It  met  us  at  Bristol, 
when  every  one  responded  to  the  sentiments  concerning  Oregon. 
The  feeling  was  universal  that  not  another  foot  of  North  Amer 
ica  should  be  polluted  with  monarchy  ;  that  here,  come  what 
may,  people  should  be  free  from  the  evils  of  hereditary  rulers, 
primogeniture,  tithes,  and  a  state  priesthood. 

From  the  corrugated  countenances  of  two  loquacious  old  gen 
tlemen,  I  was  led,  for  want  of  something  else  to  think  on,  to 
infer  that  the  diversified  wrinkles  in  the  human  face  are  pro 
duced  pretty  much  in  the  same  way  as  are  similar  marks  in 
the  leathers  of  bellows.  The  movable  board,  like  the  movable 
jaw,  ever  stretching  and  collapsing  the  flexile  material,  at  length 
determines  and  defines  the  lines.  No  two  faces  are  crimped 
alike,  neither  are  two  bellows.  Both  cheeks  and  leathers  are 

B 


Ig  SKETCHES   OF 

smootli  when  new,  and  it  is  only  by  long-continued  action  that 
the  creases  become  stereotyped  in  either.  To  be  sure,  the  liv 
ing  skin  requires  more  working  to  take  and  retain  the  impres 
sions  than  that  prepared  by  the  tanner,  but  then  how  vastly 
more  is  it  worked  !  The  muscles  of  the  mouth  and  the  play  of 
the  lower  jaw  scarcely  have  a  moment's  rest  from  the  beginning 
of  life  to  the  end  of  it.  The  lines  in  the  hands  are  formed  in 
the  same  way. 

Night  traveling  is  favorable  to  re  very.  There  were  some 
three  hundred  passengers  in  the  train — politicians,  editors,  la 
dies,  and  ladies'  maids,  place-hunters,  merchants,  planters,  mili 
tary  and  naval  officers,  artisans,  and  engineers — every  one  more 
or  less  absorbed  in  cogitation.  In  fact,  we  are  all  itinerant  Bat- 
aleurs,  proprietors  of  little  cosmoramic  exhibitions,  which  we 
carry  about  for  our  individual  entertainment,  and  whose  value 
varies  with  the  pictures  put  into  them.  How  large  a  part  of 
life  is  spent  in  working  these,  and  what  pleasure  they  impart 
when  Hope  fingers  the  strings ! 

After  a  short  stay  in  Philadelphia,  we  rushed  on,  through 
Baltimore,  to  Washington,  where  I  spent  a  day  over  the  lions, 
and  left  for  Richmond.  We  descended  the  Potomac  in  a  small 
steamer,  some  forty  miles,  to  Aquia  Creek,  whence  the  cars 
ran  us,  in  a  few  hours,  to  the  capital  of  Virginia.  The  land 
scape  for  a  hundred  miles  presented  a  uniform  icy  arborescence. 
Gusts  of  wind  rustled  through  clumps  of  trees  and  shrubbery, 
shaking  down  showers  of  crystals,  which  came  whirring  in  waves 
over  the  glassy  fields  toward  us. 

Arriving  according  to  appointment,  I  learn  that  the  vessel- 
loading  with  flour  nineteen  miles  below  on  the  Appomattox — will 
not  complete  her  cargo  for  several  days.  Not  expecting  to  stop 
here  twelve  hours,  and  to  be  detained  perhaps  a  week,  is  enough, 
in  such  weather  as  has  now  set  in,  to  give  one  mental  chills  and 
bodily  ague-fits.  The  air  is  tangible  from  excessive  moisture, 
and  at  night  darkness  is  literally  felt.  The  fog  is  so  dense  as 
completely  to  hide  from  view  buildings  on  opposite  sides  of  the 
street.  If  "in  thick  mists  the  devil  is  smoking  tobacco,"  this 
must  be  a  favorite  place  for  taking  his  pipe  in.  But  travelers 
should  not  be  discouraged  nor  readers  frightened  off  by  prelim 
inary  disagreeables. 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  19 

Richmond  is  picturesque  in  its  location,  occupying  both  high 
and  low  grounds.  The  river  at  its  feet  is  crowded  with  rocks, 
which  nothing  but  a  canoe  can  thread;  the  longest  bridge  in 
the  state,  a  very  high  one,  crosses  immediately  below  them. 
The  canal  sweeps  along  the  banks  at  an  elevation  of  some  forty 
feet,  presenting  enviable  sites  for  hydraulic  motors,  and  in  these 
sources  of  wealth  rivaling  the  water-power  of  Paterson  and 
Lowell.  The  houses,  of  diverse  fashions,  run  up  and  cross  pre 
cipitous  streets,  while  the  State  House,  on  an  eminence,  over 
looks  the  city  and  surrounding  scenery,  "  Main  Street"  is  two 
miles  long,  its  lower  end  terminating  at  "Rockets," the  nearest 
place  to  which  steamers  and  small  craft  can  come  up.  The 
middle  portion  of  this  avenue — the  old  business  part  of  the  city 
— is  steep,  and  occupied  on  both  sides  with  substantial  stores 
and  dwellings.  In  other  parts  the  edifices  are  poor.  I  was  sur 
prised  to  find  decent  white  people  living  in  very  mean  apologies 
for  dwellings.  Several  old  streets  are  not  paved,  neither  mid 
dle  nor  sidewalks.  I  am  told  no  marked  changes  have  been 
made  in  the  city  during  the  last  thirty  years. 

The  State  House  is  a  handsome  structure.  In  the  hall  stands 
Ilouden's  statue  of  Washington,  in  citizen's  dress,  and  a  walk 
ing-cane  in  his  hand — a  perfect  picture  in  marble  of  a  Virginian 
gentleman  of  the  eighteenth  century.  True  to  life,  it  will  con 
vey  to  posterity  a  far.  more  correct  idea  of  the  Father  of  his 
Country  than  the  half  nude  Roman  figure  at  Washington. 

The  market  is  well  supplied,  and  prices  are  moderate.  Beef 
and  mutton  from  4  J  to  6  cents  per  pound ;  pork,  6  cents ;  tur 
keys,  75  cents  each,  and  ducks  the  same  per  pair.  Fish  aver 
ages  3  cents  per  pound. 

A  numerous  class  of  animals  killed  here  and  elsewhere,  but 
seldom  eaten,  are  mules — the  cheapest,  easiest  fed,  and  most 
enduring  beasts  of  draught  and  burden.  It  is  surprising  how 
they  climb  icy  acclivities  with  loads  so  disproportioned  to  their 
slender  frames.  Some  streets  have  a  rise  of  eight  or  ten  feet 
in  a  hundred.  The  Exchange  Hotel  opens  on  one,  and  it  is 
painful  to  witness  them  tacking  from  side  to  side  as  they  pass 
it,  for  ascend  direct  they  can  not.  See  those  two  small  ones 
struggling  with  a  ton  of  building-stone  from  the  river  side,  strain 
ing  as  if  their  limbs  must  become  disjointed  and  their  sinews 


20  SKETCHES   OF 

torn  asunder!  Scalding  vapor  pours  from  their  nostrils  and 
rolls  over  their  panting  sides.  Their  clinched  teeth  are  wide 
exposed,  for  their  quivering  lips  are  drawn  apart  and  corrugated 
by  their  efforts.  Conscious  that  if  they  ceased  their  exertions 
the  load  would  drag  them  backward  and  whirl  them  down  the 
steep,  how  spasmodically  they  strike  their  toes  into  the  ground 
to  secure  a  footing !  It  is  wonderful  how  their  delicate  pastern 
joints  endure  without  snapping  such  violent  grapplings  with 
the  pavement.  The  driver  now  turns  their  heads  across  the 
street,  and  blocks  the  wheels  to  allow  their  palpitation  to  sub 
side.  In  many  streets  they  can  not  ascend  over  twenty  feet 
without  thus  resting.  Richmond  is  the  mules'  Tartarus.  There 
was  some  reason,  if  not  piety,  in  the  reply  of  the  old  Spanish 
hybrid  to  his  young  associate  in  harness  as  to  the  preference  to 
be  given  to  level  or  to  undulating  roads.  His  answer  was,  "  A 
curse  on  both,  and  on  the  fiends  that  made  them." 

Lotteries,  expelled  from  Northern  States,  still  flourish  here. 
Every  day,  Sundays  excepted,  a  new  one  is  announced.  The 
290th  of  "  The  Alexandria  Lottery  for  Internal  Improvements 
in  the  District  of  Columbia"  was  drawn  on  the  5th  instant. 
Three  more  have  since  been  issued,  and  the  294th  is  to  be 
drawn  to-day.  "  The  Virginia  Leesburg  Lottery,  for  endowing 
the  Leesburg  Academy  and  other  purposes,"  was  drawn  on  the 
8th.  Men,  it  is  said  here,  will  gamble,  and  why  not  direct  the 
business  into  beneficial  public  channels  ?  They  assuredly  will, 
wherever  the  laws  stimulate  the  passion,  and  authorize  hosts 
of  agents  to  carry  it  into  every  corner  of  the  land.  At  best,  lot 
teries  are  crusades  against  public  morals — legislative  schemes 
to  convert  men  into  blacklegs — making  worthy  citizens  worth 
less  in  every  sense.  For  eveiy  lottery-gambler  enriched,  a  score 
have  been  made  insane  and  a  thousand  beggared.  But  incon 
sistencies  and  their  vindication  are  natural  to  man,  else  these 
devices  for  improving  public  lands  by  impairing  public  morals, 
and  debauching  a  people's  virtue  to  endow  schools  for  their  chil 
dren,  had  not  been  so  long  tolerated. 

Considerable  business  is  done  in  Richmond,  but  not  what  is 
due  to  the  capital  of  the  largest  and  earliest-colonized  state  of 
the  Union.  Its  population,  though  nearly  double  that  of  any 
other  Virginian  town,  is  under  21,000 — less  than  that  of  Low- 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  21 

ell  or  Eochcster,  not  half  that  of  Cincinnati,  and  falling,  in  this 
respect,  behind  northern  and  western  cities  of  yesterday.  The 
people  of  the  "  Old  Dominion"  are  said  to  "be  awakening  to  the 
fact  of  other  states,  less  favored  by  nature,  shooting  so  fast 
ahead  of  her,  and  some  of  the  youngest  leaving  her  in  the 
rear. 

Dece7nber  15.  The  bark  having  started  yesterday  in  charge 
of  the  pilot  for  Hampton  Roads,  along  with  a  Bremen  brig 
bound  for  Bahia,  I  left  Richmond,  with  Captain  Smith,  in  a 
Norfolk  steamer,  glad  in  view  of  getting  to  sea  after  so  long  a 
detention.  After  steaming  twenty-five  miles  down  James  Riv 
er,  we  overtook  the  Mazeppa  at  anchor  only  half  way  to  the 
Roads,  while  the  Bremen  vessel  was  ahead  and  under  sail,  hav 
ing  passed  a  long  bend  where  the  wind  that  arrested  our  prog 
ress  was  favorable  to  hers.  She  left  the  Capes  four  days  before 
us,  and  was  probably  seven  hundred  miles  on  her  way  to  the 
equator  ere  our  pilot  left  us.  So  much  for  a  few  hundred  yards 
start  on  a  crooked  river.  Here  we  were  detained  two  days.  A 
strong  gale,  with  snow,  set  in,  and  increased  till  additional  an 
chors  had  to  be  thrown  out  to  prevent  our  being  blown  ashore. 

To  pass  the  time,  suppose  we  glance  over  the  floating  board 
ing-house.  There  is  something  pleasing  in  the  idea  of  occupy 
ing  rooms  in  one  of  those  hotels  that  take  their  inmates  out  to 
see  the  world,  and  more  especially  the  wonders  of  the  deep. 
The  dining  and  drawing  rooms  are  one.  Built  on  deck,  it  ex 
tends  from  the  stern  to  near  the  mainmast,  where  the  entrance 
is.  The  ceiling-beams  are  elevated  sufficiently  for  men  of  ordi 
nary  stature,  except  when  carrying  their  heads  too  high,  in 
which  case  they  act  the  part  of  moral  monitors,  and  reprove  the 
haughty.  The  side  walls  are  made  up  of  painted  doors  with 
Yenitian  panels,  each  opening  into  a  sleeping  chamber.  Look 
into  one,  and  you  see  all.  Five  and  a  half  feet  long,  the  same 
in  height,  but  less  in  width  ;  each  is  a  double-bedded  room. 
Those  two  shelves  are  the  bedsteads  ;  one,  three  feet  above  the 
floor  ;  the  other,  fifteen  inches  over  it,  and  the  same  distance  be 
low  the  ceiling.  The  narrow  ledges  in  front  are  to  keep  the  oc 
cupants  from  rolling  out.  Were  they  deeper,  no  person  could 
get  in  nor  out,  and,  as  things  are,  it  is  not  easy  for  strangers  to 
introduce  themselves  between  the  mattress  and  the  coverlet. 


22  SKETCHES   OF 

There  may  be  those  who  with  dignity  get  into  and  out  of  bed 
ashore,  but  it  is  not  to  be  done  at  sea. 

A  wash-stand  is  wedged  fast  at  one  end  of  the  chamber,  and 
as  you  raise  your  face  out  of  the  lavatory,  a  miniature  mirror 
meets  your  eye.  A  space,  four  feet  by  two,  is  left  for  you  to 
move  in.  A  prismatic  strip  of  glass  lets  in  light  at  the  ceiling, 
while  air  from  the  drawing-room  circulates  through  the  panel- 
slats. 

The  dining-table  is  fastened  to  the  floor,  and  has  raised  edges 
to  keep  dishes  from  sliding  off  with  their  contents.  The  side 
board  is  overhead — a  long  and  wide  swinging  shelf,  in  which 
are  perforations  for  every  variety  of  table  glass-ware.  A  fire, 
in  weather  like  this,  is  indispensable,  and  there  glows  the  stove, 
chained  to  the  floor,  with  its  pipe  ascending  through  the  roof. 
Two  skylights  illumine  the  room  by  day,  a  lantern  and  lamp  by 
night.  A  ship's  largest  saloon  is  named  the  "  cabin,"  a  word 
of  low  orgin,  from  cavea,  a  den,  characteristic,  no  doubt,  of  prim 
itive  conveniences  at  sea.  But  now  marine  philology  more  than 
keeps  pace  with  improvements  in  shipping ;  passengers'  berths 
are  "state-rooms,"  though  the  poorest  of  all  places  for  stately 
people  to  show  off  in. 

Two  more  distinct  dwellings  are  on  the  main  deck ;  one  near 
the  bows,  in  which  the  sailors  sleep,  and  sup,  and  hold  soirees 
— in  naval  nomenclature,  the  "  forecastle,"  to  distinguish  it  from 
the  captain's  mansion,  anciently  known  as  the  "rear,"  or  "hind- 
castle."  The  other  is  located  amidships,  and  accommodates  a 
number  of  friendless  passengers,  of  whom  few  will  live  to  see 
Bio.  It  is  an  independent  floating  dwelling,  namely,  the  long 
boat,  having  its  sides  raised  with  neat  carpentry,  in  which  arc 
two  windows,  a  cubit  square,  with  shutters,  and  the  whole  cov 
ered  in  with  a  tight  roof,  a  copy,  on  a  small  scale,  of  Noah's 
ark,  and  somewhat  resembling  it  in  its  tenants  too. 

On  either  side  of  this  abode  is  lashed  a  row  of  huge  water- 
casks,  leaving  but  a  narrow  path  for  the  sailors  between  them 
and  the  ship's  bulwarks.  Forward  of  them  rises  a  square  struc 
ture,  black  inside  and  out  as  the  iron  chimney  projecting  from 
it — a  marine  kitchen.  Here  the  cook  presides,  close  to  his  liv 
ing  larder.  As  if  sensible  of  his  vicinity,  and  of  the  daily  on 
slaughts  to  be  made  on  them,  how  his  victims  scream !  and  well 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  23 

they  may.  A  huge  black  fellow,  wearing  a  high-pointed  red 
cap,  a  shirt  of  the  same  ominous  color,  with  sleeves  rolled  above 
liis  elbows,  bare-legged,  and  knife  in  hand,  he  is  enough  to  scare 
others  besides  the  chicken-hearted. 

The  cellars  of  the  establishment  are  so  well  stocked  with 
flour,  apples,  hams,  cheese,  and  other  edibles,  that  we  might 
''put  a  girdle  round  the  earth"  before  running  out  of  victuals. 
The  family  is  not  large — the  captain,  two  mates,  steward,  cook, 
and  six  men :  eleven  in  all — myself,  the  only  boarder,  making 
out  the  dozen. 

\lth.  After  drifting  down  twelve  miles  with  the  tide,  we  are 
again  at  anchor  opposite  a  small  building  of  one  story,  at  the 
loot  of  an  excavation  in  the  left  bank — a  country  store  owned 
by  an  acquaintance  of  the  pilot.     The  steward  suggested  some 
additions  to  his  stock,  and  the  captain,  pilot,  and  I  went  ashore. 
We  found  the  proprietor  a  good,  easy  soul,  and  wondered  how 
so  mild  a  man  had  lost  an  eye.      Short,  thick,  and  fifty,  he  wore 
a  fox-skin  for  a  cap,  a  docked  gray  coat,  and  had  both  legs  and 
thighs  incased  in  leather  leggins.     To  one  heel  a  rusty  spur 
was  strapped.     He  had  nothing  in  his  store  save  a  little  chew 
ing  tobacco.     His  wife  was  tall,  thin,  and  obviously  an  ener 
getic  helpmate.      She  was  miserably  dressed,  considering  the 
weather.     Her  hair  was  streaming  through  rents  in  her  cap,  the 
sleeves  of  a  light  calico  gown  stopped  before  they  reached  her 
elbow,  and,  with  the  skirts,  were  scolloped  without  the  aid  of 
scissors.     The  dwelling  part  seemed  desolate  as  the  store.     The 
only  thing  approaching  to  ornament  was  a  huge  heart-shaped 
red  pincushion,  pendent  from  the  mantle-shelf.     Upon  the  lat 
ter  lay  a  stalk  of  dried  tobacco.     Our  host  pulled  off  a  leaf, 
bruised  it  in  his  hand,  charged  a  pipe,  and  invited  us  to  follow 
his  example.     A  black  girl  brought  in  an  armful  of  wood,  threw 
it  on  the  fire,  and  took  a  stand  behind  her  mistress,  of  whose 
gown  she  grasped  a  handful,  and  with  two  fingers  in  her  mouth 
glared  at  us  as  if  we  had  come  to  buy  her. 

Major  J gave  us  a  sketch  of  his  life.     He  began  the 

world  with  nothing ;  the  day  he  married,  seventy-five  cents  was 
all  he  and  his  wife  possessed ;  they  had  not  a  scrap  of  furni 
ture  ;  a  friend  lent  them  a  bed.  In  twenty-five  years  they  had 
made  $12,000  by  hard  labor,  and  now  it  was  nearly  all  gone. 


24  SKETCHES   OF 

He  had  become  surety  for  neighbors ;  his  house,  on  the  site  of 
the  present  one,  was  burned ;  a  steam-boat  captain  cheated  him 
out  of  a  cargo  of  fire-wood  ;  a  sloop  shared  the  fate  of  his  house ; 
he  lost  two  negroes,  and  had  no  children.  Troubles  came  so 
thick  that  he  thought  Providence  was  trying  to  see  how  much 
he  could  bear ;  he  could  not  tell  why,  for  he  defied  the  world  to 
show  he  had  cheated  any  one  of  a  cent. 

General  challenges  may  sometimes  be  just ;  they  are  seldom 
prudent.  There  is  no  telling  when  nor  where  the  author  of 
mischief  may  pick  up  an  opponent.  Sometimes  he  succeeds 
among  the  appellant's  friends,  which  is  bad  enough,  but  it  is 
much  worse  when  his  own  wife  springs  into  the  lists  in  answer 
to  the  summons.  At  the  innocent  boasting-point  of  this  Vir 
ginian  Job's  recital  of  his  woes,  his  lady  said  his  assertion  was 
not  true !  He  has  cheated  somebody,  and  he  knows  it !  More 
over,  she  had  told  him  he  would  be  punished  before  he  died. 
Hitherto  we  had  sat  silent  as  Bildad,  Eliphaz,  and  Zophar  over 
their  friend,  but  one  of  us  now  asked  how  he  lost  the  slaves. 
Both,  he  said,  were  young  and  promising ;  one,  a  girl,  worth 
$150 ;  the  other,  a  smart  fellow,  was  cheap  at  $300.  He  never 
knew  what  ailed  them ;  they  took  sick,  and  dieql  on  his  hands. 

The  only  effects  of  the  felonious  charge  were  a  slackening  of 
the  puffs,  a  half  withdrawal  of  the  stem  from  his  lips,  and  a 
placid  stare  at  the  accuser.  He  immediately  returned  to  sucks 
and  puffs  again.  For  my  part,  I  was  greatly  relieved,  but  not 
so  his  mate.  "Yes,  he  has  cheated  somebody;"  here  I  felt 
like  going  out;  but  her  next  shot  hit  the  mark  and  cleared 
away  the  inist.  "  He  had  cheated  himself- — he  had  trusted  ev 
ery  body." 

At  a  short  distance  back  of  the  house  stood  a  miserable  hut. 
While  looking  toward  it,  I  observed  a  movement  in  the  bushes 
above,  and  every  now  and  then  caught  a  glimpse  of  something 
working  its  way  through  them.  As  it  drew  near,  it  proved  to 
be  a  negro  moving  on  his  knees,  and  with  the  aid  of  a  stick, 
dragging  two  withered  and  bandaged  legs  through  the  ice  and 
snow  behind  him — a  harrowing  spectacle.  By  skipping  some 
and  wading  more,  I  reached  the  open  entrance  of  the  hut,  but 
could  see  nothing  of  him.  All  was  black  and  chill  within. 
There  was  no  opening  for  light  save  the  low  door-way.  A 


LIFE  IN   BRAZIL.  25 

flickering  flame  at  length  broke  out,  and  showed  he  had  crept 
into  a  corner,  where  he  was  fanning  a  few  half-extinct  embers. 
Poor  fellow !  he  was  but  twenty-five,  and  quite  intelligent.  He 
lost  the  use  of  his  limbs  twelve  years  ago  through  rheumatism, 
was  soon  after  sold,  and  had  been  traded  away  many  times 
since.  What  a  fate  is  his ! 

On  coming  out,  his  mistress  was  feeding  a  crowd  of  turkeys, 
pea-hens,  common  fowls,  and  pigeons.  The  hawks,  she  told 
me,  got  more  of  her  chickens  and  pigeons  than  her  own  family. 
They  have  now,  she  observed,  only  five  slaves,  and  the  cripple 
I  had  seen  was  worth  all  the  rest ;  he  cuts  down  more  cords  of 
wood  a  day  than  any  man  in  the  county ;  they  bought  him  six 
years  ago  for  $50,  and  he  had  earned  them  a  thousand ;  he  was 
a  good  hand  at  fishing,  and  at  almost  any  thing. 

Although  the  captain  obtained  no  eggs  for  money,  he  got  a 
line  black  cat  for  nothing.  I  thought  him  joking  when  asking 
for  it,  and  am  half  sure  the  lady  had  no  idea  of  being  deprived 
of  it  on  giving  an  indirect  affirmative  ;  but  he  forthwith  snatch 
ed  up  the  astonished  animal  and  took  it  aboard.  » 

Two  tedious  days  more  elapsed  ere  we  reached  the  Roads,  and 
anchored  amid  a  fleet  of  vessels  waiting  for  a  change  of  wind. 
The  village  of  Hampton  lies  on  our  left,  Norfolk  at  the  right, 
and  Old  Point  Comfort  three  miles  ahead  of  us.  Yon  massive 
battery,  rising  out  of  the  water  opposite  "  Old  Point,"  and  three 
quarters  of  a  mile  from  it,  is  the  famous  "  Eip  Raps" — an  ex 
pressive  sobriquet.  The  water  between  it  and  the  Norfolk  side 
of  the  shore  is  too  shallow  for  large  craft  to  float  through.  All 
must  pass  in  and  out  between  the  two  forts  whose  names  are 
so  diverse ;  one  offering  you  consolation,  if  a  friend ;  the  other 
ready  to  knock  and  tear  you  to  pieces,  if  an  enemy. 


26  SKETCHES   OF 


CHAPTER  II. 

Ten  Days1  Sail :  Beat  out.— New  Sensations.— Captain  in  Costume.— A  Gale.— 
Sea-sickness.— Water  Kara.  —  Gulf  Stream.— Christmas  Carols.— Human  Dar 
ing. — Ship  hunted  by  marine  Demons. — Hard  Life  of  Seamen. — Cook  and  Cap 
tain. — Enchanting  Skies. — Minute  Crabs. 

December  20.  We  are  still  lying  opposite  the  mouth  of  Ches 
apeake  Bay,  after  spending  a  week  in  descending  the  lowest  of 
the  five  parallel  streams  of  which  it  forms  the  basin.  The  ba 
rometer  has  suddenly  fallen  from  30°. 25  to  below  28°,  a  certain 
indication  of  a  change  in  the  weather.  Our  detention  makes 
heavy  draughts  on  the  captain's  patience.  He  swears  he  will 
pass  Cape  Henry  before  night,  let  what  will  happen :  a  pretty 
piece  of  blasphemy  this  would  have  been  in  an  ancient  mariner  ; 
but,  alas  for  Neptune  !  instead  of  bulls  reeking  on  his  altars, 
he  receives  little  from  sailors  now  but  exhausted  quids  thrown 
in  his  face. 

After  two  unsuccessful  attempts,  we  at  last  beat  out,  and  by 
5  P.M.  the  forts  were  miles  behind  us.  Now  fairly  off,  with 
the  wind  abaft,  the  ship,  hitherto  so  sober  and  demure,  moves 
as  if  mad  with  joy  at  getting  into  her  element,  rolling  and  pitch 
ing  from  pure  exuberance  of  spirits.  A  stranded  whale  just 
lloated  over  a  sand-bar  could  not  make  off  more  merrily.  Her 
very  timbers  creak  in  concert  with  the  flapping  sails  and  whis 
tling  in  the  rigging.  Eheu !  But  this  is  a  change !  If  she 
minced  and  minueted  down  the  river,  she  is  leaving  it  in  a  gal- 
lopade.  How  the  ocean  roars,  and  how  the  water  hisses  where 
she  cuts  it,  as  if  her  bows  were  red-hot  plowshares !  She's  go 
ing  to  "  make  a  night  of  it" — to  treat  us  to  a  ball.  All  things 
are  preparing  for  one,  and  not  a  few  have  begun  rehearsing. 

The  captain,  as  master  of  ceremonies,  dressed  early.  Retir 
ing  after  dinner  in  citizen's  dress,  he  sprung  forth  a  singular- 
looking  sea  beau.  I  did  not  recognize  him,  and  was  on  the 
point  of  asking  who  the  stranger  was,  when  he  announced  him 
self  viva  voce.  A  glazed  hat  with  a  hemispherical  crown  cov 
ered  his  caput ;  the  wide  and  flexile  brim  was  drawn  at  two  op- 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  27 

posite  points  close  to  his  florid  cheeks  by  spun-yarn  ribbons, 
tied  in  a  slip-knot  under  the  inferior  maxilla.  An  oil-skin  coat, 
or  cloak,  or  shirt,  or  chemise — it  had  properties  belonging  to  all 
four — reached  from  chin  to  ankles:  of  the  color  ofbees'-wax,  it 
was  not  more  supple  than  stiff  paper ;  the  upright  collar  em 
braced  his  neck,  and  was  made  to  hug  it  closer  by  a  fillet  cut 
from  the  same  web  as  the  hat-bands.  But  the  strangest  por 
tion  of  his  costume  were  his  French  boots.  Inflexible  as  mar 
ble,  and  the  legs  thick  almost  as  the  soles,  he  raised  his  skirts, 
and  showed  his  knees  sunk  in  them,  with  scollops  cut  out  be 
hind.  I  had  supposed  nothing  rigid  should  be  about  a  sailor's 
dress,  nor  could  I  perceive  how  in  such  things  he  could  act  the 
skipper.  He  did,  though,  and  in  style  too. 

The  wind  rose  to  a  gale,  and,  blowing  directly  astern,  caused 
the  vessel  to  roll  most  fearfully.  From  no  other  quarter  could 
the  effect  be  so  distressing.  I  no  longer  could  withstand  the 
general  tendency  to  change  of  place  and  posture.  Much  against 
my  will,  my  feet  began  a  series  of  ungraceful  steps  toward  the 
cabin,  where  matters  were  no  better  than  outside.  Several  trunks 
had  got  loose,  and,  with  a  dozen  stools,  were  rushing  with  vio 
lence  from  side  to  side.  The  pantry-door  flew  open,  and  a  soup- 
tureen,  with  dishes,  and  a  score  of  sound  and  maimed  plates, 
came  sweeping  over  the  floor.  The  steward,  securing  his  erratic 
charge,  threw  the  fragments  overboard,  and  blessed  the  ship,  the 
wind,  or  something  else,  in  subdued  but  bitter  terms. 

Night  is  fast  letting  down  her  curtain,  and  the  lamps  above 
are  kindling,  but  I  am  sick  already  of  the  evening's  entertain 
ments.  They  agree  not  with  my  head  nor  legs,  and  against 
them  I  feel  my  stomach  rising.  The  taste  more  than  a  feast 
suffices ;  but  the  worst  thing  about  sea-revels  is  that,  however 
desirous  one  is  to  be  excused,  no  excuse  is  taken,  no  begging 
off  allowed,  no  "  not  at  homes"  admitted. 

It  is  impossible  to  convey  to  those  who  never  left  the  land 
an  adequate  idea  of  the  distresses  of  a  sea-sick  voyager ;  but  let 
them  imagine  a  person  like  myself  approaching  the  ocean,  and, 
when  launched  upon  it,  half  smiling  at  his  previous  fears,  yet 
sensible  while  he  smiles  of  a  je  ne  sais  quoi  sensation  flitting 
about  his  epigastrium,  so  very  slight,  however,  that  he  tells 
himself  it  is  mere  imagination.  A  struggle  between  this  new 


28  SKETCHES    OF 

feeling  and  his  fears  goes  on,  it  may  be,  for  an  hour  or  two, 
when  there  is  no  mistaking  either.  He  now  no  longer  rules  his 
inner  or  his  outer  being ;  his  faculties  are  flying  and  his  feet  for 
saking  him.  Creation  reels :  he  looks  out,  and  lo !  the  earth 
has  left  her  orbit,  and  the  heavens  are  rushing  with  her  into 
chaos.  His  nature  seems  dissolving  ;  electric  halos  play  round 
his  bursting  eye-balls  ;  he  feels  the  sutures  of  his  cranium  open, 
and  his  viscera  about  to  leave  him — his  soul  seems  taking  her 
departure.  Suppose  the  victim  seeks  his  bed,  beyond  question 
the  best  place  for  him  in  such  weather  as  this,  yet  even  there  he 
is  rolled  and  tossed,  jerked  and  ..shaken,  till  he  becomes  indif 
ferent  to  life,  and  even  wishes  for  its  extinction. 

Though  some  persons  get  over  sea-sickness  in  a  few  days, 
many  are  never  rid  of  it  till  they  step  on  shore.  Old  sailors 
have  slight  attacks  after  remaining  a  few  months  on  land.  The 
pilot  told  me  he  was  fourteen  years  at  sea  before  it  wholly  left 
him,  and  he  named  some  who  had  died  from  its  violence.  I 
designed  fairly  to  test  during  the  voyage  a  few  alleged  specif 
ics.  I  did  so,  and  the  result  was,  none  were  of  any  or  of  marked 
avail.  Lying  horizontally  mitigates  the  evil,  and  if  the  vessel 
does  not  roll,  nausea  and  retching  then  subside.  One  proposed 
remedy  is  a  fillet  or  belt  drawn  tightly  round  the  abdomen. 
With  some,  this  may  possibly  prove  beneficial ;  with  me,  it  might 
as  well  have  been  strapped  around  the  mainmast.  Another  is 
— what  has,  in  fact,  been  tried  ever  since  the  disease  was  known, 
every  patient  by  a  natural  impulse  practicing  it — to  mesmerize 
the  enemy :  divert  his  attention  to  distant  matters,  and  will  him 
to  be  gone.  "Be  firmly  persuaded  he  can  not  approach  you, 
and  he  wont."  I  have  known  preachers  of  this  doctrine  have 
opportunities  of  testing  it,  when  they  found  that  fools  and  phi 
losophers  were  alike  prostrated,  and  equally  reduced  to  help 
lessness. 

At  midnight  the  storm,  for  the  stiff  gale  had  risen  into  one, 
was  raging.  At  intervals  the  captain's  voice  was  heard  amid 
the  bellowing  elements,  and  feeble  and  indistinct  replies,  as  from 
a  great  distance,  came  down  from  aloft.  Hail  pattered  on  the 
skylight  and  kept  whizzing  among  the  rigging.  I  wondered 
how  the  men  withstood  its  fury.  The  fowls  and  pigs  sent  forth 
cries  of  distress,  and  the  bewildered  cat  kept  scratching  and 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  29 

miauling  at  my  room  door  for  admittance.  There  was  no  keep 
ing  her  out  afterward. 

My  pillow  was  within  a  few  inches  of  the  water,  and,  of 
course,  I  heard  as  well  as  felt  it  booming  against  the  planks, 
and  boiling  and  gurgling  as  it  rushed  by.  While  ideas  of  foun 
dering,  running  on  rocks,  or  against  some  other  vessel,  were  in 
vading  me,  there  came  suddenly  such  a  blow,  somewhere  be 
neath  me,  as  made  the  vessel  stop  and  fairly  spin  again.  Shaken 
by  the  jar,  I  involuntarily  shouted  "  What  is  that  ?"  but  a  sten- 
tor's  voice  could  not,  at  the  time,  have  been  heard  on  deck.  It 
was  so  short,  sharp,  and  tremendous,  that  I  knew  not  to  what  to 
attribute  it  except  that  the  hull  had  been  struck  by  the  fluke 
of  a  whale.  These  creatures  have  crushed  in  ships'  timbers — 
what  if  some  sound  or  rotten  plank  has  been  knocked  off,  and  I 
about  to  drop,  unseen  of  any  one  this  dark  night,  into  the 
abyss !  Then  I  thought  of  sword-fishes  plunging  their  nasal 
weapons  clear  through  the  sides  of  vessels — what  if  one  should 
transfix  me  here !  Well,  such  a  death  is  preferable  to  sinking 
slowly  down  among  marine  monsters  that  would  tear  one  asun 
der,  and  fight  over  one's  disjointed  limbs  before  sensation  left 
them.  Of  the  two  kinds  of  death,  give  me  the  quickest. 

As  if  taken  at  my  word,  there  came  another  shock,  close  to 
where  I  lay,  that  made  the  ship  and  all  within  her  shiver.  She 
could  not  have  been  more  stunned  if  the  blow  had  come  from  a 
battering-ram  propelled  by  giants.  It  was  succeeded  by  others 
during  the  night,  and  not  till  morning  did  I  learn  they  were  in 
deed  blows  from  water-rams — huge  waves  snapping  directly  un 
der  and  against  her. 

21s£.  Wind  still  high  and  snow  falling.  We  are  dashing 
across  the  Gulf  Stream,  which,  like  a  boiling  caldron,  is  cov 
ered  with  thick-ascending  vapor.  Ere  entering  it,  the  steam 
rose  like  a  high  wall  before  us.  The  central  portion  of  the  cur 
rent  is,  of  course,  the  warmest,  the  heat  diminishing  as  the  vol 
ume  spreads  out  on  either  hand.  At  8  A.M.  its  temperature 
was  66°,  at  noon  72°,  the  air  meanwhile  below  the  freezing 
point.  Unfortunately,  the  temperature  of  the  sea  before  reach 
ing  it  was  not  taken. 

I  was  anxious  to  ascertain  some  particulars  of  a  body  of  wa 
ter  that  circulates  incessantly  round  the  globe,  and  silently  works 


30  SKETCHES    OF 

great  changes  on  it,  but  could  not  keep  the  deck.  A  counter 
part  of  the  aerial  current  of  rotation,  the  main  stream  and  its 
branches  modify  the  configurations  of  continents,  and  thereby 
diversify  its  own  action  and  effects.  Besides  its  dynamic  pow 
ers  and  whatever  influence  it  may  have  on  piscine  life — the  nat 
ural  abode  of  some  tribes,  and  perhaps  an  occasional  and  neces 
sary  retreat  for  others — its  thermal  influence  is  obvious.  But 
for  it  the  Arctic  seas  had  not  been  open.  The  volumes  of  heat 
ed  waters  from  the  torrid  zone  which  it  pours  without  ceasing 
into  high  latitudes  not  only  serve  to  moderate  the  heat  of  one 
and  cold  of  the  other,  but  they  prevent  the  polar  ice  from  en 
larging  its  dominion. 

A  fine  lesson  in  mechanical  science  might  long  ago  have  been 
learned  from  it.  If  the  reader  has  kept  up  with  modern  prog 
ress  of  the  arts,  he  is  aware  of  a  system  recently  introduced  for 
heating  public  and  private  buildings  by  hot  water.  It  is  indeed 
«'i  fact,  and  ever  will  be  one,  that  in  every  operation  of  nature, 
magnificent  or  minute,  simple  or  complicated,  an  important  in 
vention  is  anticipated  or  suggested.  There  is  no  valuable  de 
vice  but  what  may  be  found  in  God's  museum  of  machines. 
Thus,  in  the  warm  channel  we  are  rushing  through,  we  behold 
one  of  His  "hot-water  circulators,"  by  which  the  coldest  latitudes 
are  tempered  with  heat  drawn  from  the  hottest.  The  furnace 
and  boiler  are  on  the  equatorial  belt,  equidistant  from  the  regions 
to  be  warmed.  "  Mains"  proceed  toward  the  poles,  sending  out 
branches  as  they  proceed,  and,  after  yielding  up  their  warmth, 
return  circuitously  for  a  fresh  supply,  precisely  as  do  their  artifi 
cial  imitations.  The  principle  of  action — the  diminished  gravity 
of  a  fluid  or  portions  of  a  fluid  by  heat,  in  both  is  one.  But 
how  different  is  Nature's  mode  of  carrying  it  out.  She  uses 
no  metallic  or  other  stiff  tubing  as  we  do,  but  conveys  the  hot 
liquid  through  channels  formed  in  the  cold,  the  most  flexile,  and 
lasting,  and  yielding  of  conduits.  The  one  we  are  floating  in 
varies  in  width  from  twenty  to  two  hundred  leagues. 

22d.  The  cold  moderating.  Thermometer  at  8  A.M.,  55°. 
Wind  still  abaft,  and  no  mitigation  of  the  tormenting  rolling. 
Pale,  faint,  and  feeling  low  enough,  loathing  all  food,  and  sick 
ening  at  the  sight  of  a  glass  of  hot  toddy  kindly  pressed  on  me 
by  the  captain,  I  had  to  retire  after  trying  repeated  cures  for 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  31 

sea-sickness.  It  appears  to  me  that  no  human  power  can  cure 
it,  but  that,  like  the  storm  without,  it  must  be  left  to  exhaust 
itself.  During  the  night  I  staggered  from  a  sofa  to  the  cabin 
door ;  one  glimpse  showed  the  sky  failing  and  the  sea  rushing 
up  to  meet  it.  That  was  enough.  I  reeled  back,  and,  the  first 
time  for  three  days,  fell  asleep  in  the  mammoth  and  roughly- 
rocked  cradle.  Petrels  and  other  oceanic  birds  pass  their  nights 
on  the  waves.  Tossed  to  and  fro,  now  down  in  a  watery  glen, 
and  now  on  a  mountain  crest,  they  sleep  on.  Can  man  do  this  ? 
He  must,  if  he  sleep  at  all  at  sea.  The  only  difference  is,  he 
has  a  plank  between  him  and  the  billows. 

24M.  We  are  passing  into  warmer  and  calmer  latitudes.  The 
wjnd  is  light,  with  a  splendid  day  overhead.  During  the  night 
we  passed  within  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  of  Bermuda. 

25th.  Awoke  to  Christmas  by  a  dismal  carol.  How  evanes 
cent  are  human  hopes !  How  quickly  are  they  blighted !  We 
hailed  yesterday  as  a  harbinger  of  fine  weather  through  the 
holidays,  and  it  has  ushered  in  as  rough  a  time  as  we  have  had 
yet.  Long  before  day  the  wind  rose  to  a  hard  gale,  which  drove 
the  vessel  headlong.  Every  plunge  she  made  a  sea  went  hiss 
ing  over  her,  while  dark  waves  and  boiling  foam  danced  round 
her.  In  the  cabin,  the  barometer  kept  swinging  with  a  violence 
that  threatened  to  throw  it  out  of  the  gimbals — one  moment 
perpendicular,  the  next  parallel  to  the  ceiling.  [Of  course  this 
was  an  illusion ;  it  was  the  ship  that  was  vibrating,  the  instru 
ment  being  comparatively  at  rest.] 

Of  the  restless,  daring,  danger-defying  nature  of  man,  there 
can  be  no  better  proof  than  a  few  individuals  thus  riding  over 
the  trackless  and  turbulent  deep,  pursuing  their  solitary  way 
with  unerring  certainty,  through  storms  and  darkness,  even  to 
antipodal  seas  and  harbors,  and  turning,  as  they  go,  the  war 
ring  elements  to  their  purpose  !  Without  witnessing  some 
thing  of  the  kind — taking  a  few  trips  in  an  ocean  phaeton,  and 
marking  the  skill  of  the  charioteers — it  is  not  easy  duly  to  ap 
preciate  the  value  of  nautical  science  and  of  nautical  men. 

Noon,  on  deck.  So  great  is  the  commotion,  that  the  distant- 
horizon  all  round  us  is  seen  jagged  and  broken  with  the  heaving 
waters.  The  poor  ship,  like  a  wounded  sea-bird  hunted  by 
shoals  of  marine  demons,  struggles  hard  to  escape.  I  can  com- 


Of    THF 

UNIVERSITY 

OF 


32  SKETCHES    OF 

pare  the  scene  to  nothing  else.  One  moment  panting  she  flies, 
and  the  next  is  overtaken  and  pulled  shuddering  over,  her 
joints  and  masts  creaking  as  if  crushed  by  their  fangs.  En 
couraged  by  the  helmsman,  she  rights  herself  and  proceeds,  but 
soon  they  fasten  on  the  other  side,  and  down  she  groaning  leans. 
Again  she  recovers  herself  and  throws  them  off.  Next,  leaping 
at  her  throat,  she  raises  her  bows  till  half  her  keel  is  out  of  the 
water,  and  then  plunges  in  desperation  on  them.  Staggered 
and  trembling,  it  would  seem  as  if  she  must  be  torn  to  pieces. 
But  a  short  lull  ensues,  as  if  her  foes  were  wearied.  She 
breathes  a  while,  her  wings  are  freshly  braced,  and  as  the  howl 
ing  of  the  pursuers  reaches  her,  she  takes  to  flight  as  with  re 
newed  determination  to  escape  them.  In  this  way  the  pursuit 
has  been  kept  up,  and,  with  little  variation,  will  be  till  she  find 
safety  in  Bio  Bay.  Then  she  will  refit,  and  thence  lead  them 
another  steeple-chase  of  five  or  six  thousand  miles  home  again. 

How  the  cook  managed  to  prepare  dinner  passed  my  compre 
hension.  The  steward  brought  in  soup,  approaching  one  mo 
ment  as  if  climbing  a  ladder,  and  the  next  as  if  descending  one 
behind  him,  so  precipitous  and  declivitous  became  the  base  he 
trod  on.  Before  reaching  the  table,  a  sea  was  shipped  that 
burst  in  the  cabin  door,  floored  him  and  the  bouillon,  deluged 
the  pantry  and  several  state-rooms.  Midnight  passed  before 
the  water  was  bailed  and  swabbed  out.  The  rest  of  the  dinner 
had  been  washed  away.  Thus  the  sea-sprites,  if  they  could 
not  sink  the  ship,  knew  how  to  spoil  our  victuals.  A  hundred 
times  I  have  wished  myself  out  of  their  hands,  were  it  only  to 
waste  time  in  coquetting  with  Virginian  Naiades  down  James 
River. 

Verily,  the  life  of  common  seamen  is  a  hard  one.  Night 
brings  them  no  discharge  from  duty,  and  in  rough  weather  all 
must  be  on  the  alert.  When  relieved  from  watch,  they  retire 
to  dark  and  loathsome  forecastles,  whose  atmosphere  would  pro 
duce  asphyxia  in  persons  of  weak  nerves,  thaw  and  change  their 
garments,  if  a  change  they  have,  and  catch  what  sleep  they  can. 
Unused  to  the  amenities  of  social  intercourse,  without  leisure 
or  taste  for  mental  improvement,  no  stimulus  to  ambition,  but 
kept  to  their  labor  as  oxen  or  horses  are,  they  can  not  but  be 
come  more  or  less  animalized  (that  is,  the  great  majority,  for 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  33 

there  are  noble  exceptions).  The  sea  is  designed  as  a  theatre 
for  human  enterprise,  and  the  profession  of  a  sailor  is  as  honor 
able,  and  now  almost  as  indispensable,  as  that  of  a  tiller  of  the 
soil.  Constituting,  as  both  classes  do,  essential  and  important 
links  in  civilization's  chain,  the  day  can  not  be  distant  when 
they  will  be  permanently  elevated  in  their  own  and  in  the  world's 
estimation. 

A  watch,  with  a  loose  pendent  ribbon  and  seal,  hangs  from  a 
nail  in  the  cabin.  Going  to  wind  it  up,  my  mind,  meanwhile, 
engaged  on  other  thoughts,  I  put  forth  my  hand,  and  was  some 
what  startled  to  see  the  key  come  deliberately  six  or  seven 
inches  from  the  wall  to  meet  me — a  feat  as  unexpected  at  the 
moment  as  would  be  that  of  a  walking-cane  anticipating  its  own 
er's  wishes.  The  incident  may  be  thought  a  common  one,  and 
so  it  was,  but  at  the  time  I  was  not  prepared  for  it. 

27M.  Yesterday  the  wind  was  light  and  fair,  but  the  troub 
led  ocean  had  not  lost  the  effects  of  the  previous  day's  tan 
trums,  and  now  another  gale  has  come,  and  more  ground  and 
lofty  tumbling.  The  temperature  steadily  increases.  At  G 
A.M.,  thermometer  68°,  which  a  shower  of  rain  reduced  in  an 
hour  to  64°.  The  cabin  feels  close,  and  the  state-rooms  more 
so.  New  substances,  as  cheese  and  other  stores,  are  volatilized, 
whose  odors,  mingling  with  those  exhaled  from  staple  bases 
of  every  ship's  perfumery,  are  exceedingly  distressing ;  every 
draught  of  the  horrid  fluid  received  into  lungs  already  sore  is 
inexpressibly  sickening. 

The  cook  has  given  out,  having  been  unwell  for  some  days. 
The  captain  now  acts  the  physician,  and  the  steward  apothecary. 
One  prescribes,  the  other  prepares  the  medicine.  The  patient 
was  called  aft  to  state  his  case,  to  place  his  hands  where  his 
pains  were,  open  his  mouth,  and  show  his  tongue.  Prompt  as 
Galen,  the  captain  dictated  a  prescription,  which  after  seeing 
prepared,  I  besought  Heaven  to  spare  my  health  till  I  could 
get  ashore. 

30^.  The  gale  of  the  27th  lasted  two  days,  during  which 
the  vessel  rocked  and  plunged  so  violently,  there  was  no  sitting 
at  the  table  or  keeping  any  thing  on  it.  More  libations  and  of 
ferings  were  made  to  the  divinities  of  rough  weather.  Yester 
day  the  ship  was  easy,  and  ran  before  the  wind  southeasterly, 

C 


34  SKETCHES   OF 

as  if  for  the  coast  of  Guinea.  This  morning  bright  and  fair. 
"  Turned  out"  early.  This  phrase  is  quite  appropriate.  There 
is  here  no  rising  from  or  sitting  up  in  bed.  To  enter  and 
emerge  is  literally  to  turn  in  and  out.  The  sky  at  sunrise  in 
expressibly  beautiful,  and  introductory  to  an  enchanting  series 
of  dissolving  views. 

At  first  the  entire  canopy  was  gray  and  dotted,  almost  uni 
formly,  with  fleecy  masses,  each  slightly  shaded  with  umber. 
Soon  these,  and  the  most  distant  of  them,  were  set  off  with 
golden  borders,  in  which  livery  they  hailed  the  rising  monarch 
of  the  day,  and  kept  varying  their  forms  and  positions  as  he 
rose,  as  if  for  joy  at  his  arrival.  His  own  robes  of  burnished 
gold  were  next  exchanged  for  those  of  radiant  silver,  and  anon 
each  cloud  was  fringed  with  the  like.  These  now  gathered 
round  the  horizon,  leaving  the  vault  a  pure  ethereal  azure,  in 
which  the  god,  in  undimmed  glory,  mounted.  In  this  manner 
the  ball  opened  for  the  day,  and  the  dance  of  cirri  and  cumuli 
began.  With  a  scene  as  glorious,  the  evening  entertainments 
ended. 

The  horizon  in  fine  relief  all  day.  What  rather  surprised 
me  was  its  apparent  nearness.  The  circle  looked  as  if  not  more 
than  four  or  five  miles  across,  suggesting  the  idea  of  neighbor 
hood,  and  of  new  objects  coming  into  view  on  our  approaching 
the  outline,  as  when  journeying  on  land.  The  surface  of  the 
sea  helped  to  strengthen  the  illusion  :  in  the  morning  it  present 
ed  a  series  of  moderately-sized  hills,  with  here  and  there  a  narrow 
valley  stretching  along  between  green  sloping  ridges,  while  to 
ward  evening  the  whole  became  a  lively  representation  of  un 
dulating  meadows. 

3lst.  Wind  light,  water  smooth,  and  sky  overcast.  "Sun- 
galls,"  resembling  small  patches  of  rainbow,  and  indicative  of 
squally  weather,  appeared.  Picked  up  specimens  of  sea-weed, 
the  little  berries  and  leaves  incrusted  with  microscopic  shell,  or, 
rather,  cell-work,  done  by  coral  artists.  Living  crabs,  some  not 
larger  than  a  pin's  head,  were  sticking  to  and  starting  life's 
voyage  on  them.  We  have  accounts  of  enterprising  human 
travelers,  but  what  an  array  of  strange  facts  and  incidents  would 
the  lives  and  adventures  of  a  few  of  these  marine  foundlings 
furnish ! 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  35 


CHAPTER  III. 

Twenty-four  Days'  Sail :  Sea  Sorrows.— A  Genoese.— Rough  Weather.— A  Fly 
ing-fish. — Flowers  of  Death. — Oceanic  Skies. — The  Atmosphere  charged  with 
red  Dust. — Firmamental  Paintings. — Flying-fish  Latitudes. — Cream-colored  or 
Quaker  Skies. — Flying-fish  again. — A  Meniscus. — A  Squall. — A  ship  in  Dis 
tress. — A  young  Fly. — In  the  Variables. — The  Ocean  unchangeable. — Temper 
ature  of  Air  and  Water. — Brazilian  Coasts. 

January  1.  The  old  year  expired  in  convulsions,  and  the 
new  one  has  come  forth  in  a  storm.  The  wind  is  bellowing 
with  rage,  rain  falling  in  torrents,  and  we  bounding  on  a  dark 
and  raging  ocean.  A  bad  night,  during  which  sleep  was  im 
possible,  is  succeeded  by  a  worse  morning.  Unable  to  stand, 
too  sick  to  sit  up,  no  resting  in  bed,  and  no  resting-place  out 
of  it,  loathing  all  food,  and  bereft  of  all  strength — what  more 
can  sea-sickness  do  ?  Could  the  feeling  be  got  up  artificially  in 
prisons,  it  would  be  mightier  than  the  douche  in  taming  rebel 
lious  spirits.  For  three  days  more  we  had  both  rough  and 
moderate  weather,  with  wind  for  us  and  against  us ;  now  run 
ning  for  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  next  driven  toward  Gib 
raltar. 

Qth.  Nothing  could  be  more  grateful  than  our  progress  yes 
terday.  With  the  air  at  summer-heat,  we  sailed  over  placid 
waters  beneath  a  glorious  sky.  It  repaid  us  for  a  week's  bad 
weather,  and  gave  us  a  taste  of  the  sailor's  paradise.  This 
morning  I  was  on  deck  at  early  dawn,  and  watched  the  dark 
gray  canopy  slowly  turn  into  a  light  dull  green,  out  of  which 
swarms  of  brown  masses  came ;  a  little  while,  and  vivid  red 
spots  grew  out  between  them,  and  then  each  cloud  appeared 
with  a  crimson  fringe  ;  both  spots  and  fringe  increase  in  bright 
ness,  short  streaks  of  vermilion  next  appear  at  the  eastern  ho 
rizon,  and  now,  shooting  far  above  it,  enliven  the  whole  firma 
ment.  They  are  rays  of  the  rising  monarch's  crown,  and  yon 
der  comes  his  glowing  face !  We  shall  have  the  pleasures  of 
yesterday  repeated.  So  I  thought ;  but  lo !  in  seven  minutes 


36  *  SKETCHES   OF 

lie  retired,  and  a  sombre  leaden  screen  enveloped  all.  So  quick 
a  change  in  Nature's  kaleidoscope  I  have  seldom  seen.  A  brig 
hove  in  sight,  and  by  noon  we  exchanged  signals.  Her  flag  is 
little  known  in  these  seas,  and  yet  it  ought  to  be  no  stranger, 
since  under  it  Columbus  sailed  for  several  years.  She  was  a 
Genoese.  By  5  P.M.  we  had  run  her  out  of  sight,  her  sailing 
qualities  being  little  better  than  those  of  the  rickety  Nina,  or 
the  dull  flag-ship  of  the  world's  great  admiral. 

Sth.  Yesterday  the  barometer  presaged  bad  weather,  and  it 
came.  The  sea  ran  higher  than  ever.  As  the  opportunity  was 
favorable  for  observing  the  height  of  the  waves,  I  spent  some 
time  in  watching  them.  Instead  of  mountains,  they  were  mod 
erate-sized  hills.  None  appeared  over  twenty  feet  high.  In 
reality,  their  altitude  was  only  about  twelve  feet,  because  their 
bases  were  sunk  about  as  much  below  the  general  surface  as 
their  peaks  rose  above  it.  The  ship,  with  most  of  her  sails 
furled,  is  tossed  about  almost  like  a  feather  in  a  whirlwind. 
Racked  and  shaken  as  she  is,  with  300  tons  or  more  of  cargo 
liable  to  displacement,  it  is  surprising  to  me  how  she  holds  to 
gether  ;  one  moment  careening  till  the  water  spouts  through  the 
scuppers,  the  next  her  bows  rising  as  if  to  rest  on  her  stern,  and 
the  next  plunging  as  if  to  stand  on  her  head.  These  move 
ments  are  so  irregular,  and  often  so  suddenly  arrested,  that,  as 
when  a  sea  breaks  under  her,  she  quivers  to  her  centre. 

Two  stormy-petrels  kept  flitting  at  the  stern.  Restless, 
these  tiny  lovers  of  the  troubled  ocean  know  no  rest.  Super 
stition  makes  them  unhappy  souls  of  departed  sailors,  while  the 
huge  gull  and  huger  albatross  are  those  of  wicked  mates  and 
masters. 

The  sun  tried  hard  to-day  to  push  aside  the  watery  screen  ; 
but  a  few  short,  ochre-colored  beams,  which  had  a  singular  effect 
on  the  hazy  atmosphere,  was  all  he  could  do  in  the  morning, 
and  then  but  for  a  few  moments.  The  general  aspect  of  the 
ocean  is  remarkable.  It  might  be  compared  to  a  calico  pattern 
of  black  and  white  spots.  The  waves  are  black,  their  crests 
pure  white,  and,  at  a  distance,  both  appear  in  equal  numbers 
and  dimensions. 

A  flying-fish  came  on  board ;  but  for  its  wings  I  should  have 
taken  it  for  a  mackerel.  Common  to  seamen  and  familiar  to 


LIFE    IN   BRAZIL. 


naturalists,  it  was  new  to  me,  and  may  be  to  some  readers,  hence 
its  portrait,  a  pretty  accurate  one,  is  introduced. 


FLYING-FISH. 


From  the  nose  to  the  extremity  of  the  tail,  twelve  inches  ; 
deepest  part  of  the  body,  two  inches  ;  the  longest  side  of  each 
wing,  seven.  The  lower  lobe  of  the  tail  prolonged  beyond  the 
other,  designed,  no  doubt,  to  facilitate  the  act  of  springing  from 
the  water.  The  wings — enlargements  of  pectoral  fins — have 
their  translucent  membrane  strengthened  by  rods  or  rays,  which 
diverge  with  the  expanding  surface,  and  still  farther  to  distrib 
ute  their  support,  each  one  becomes  split  about  half  way  up  the 
wing,  and  the  two  branches,  after  spreading  apart,  become  in 
like  manner  divided  as  they  approach  the  margin.  Having 
nothing  else  to  do,  I  began  to  moralize  on  the  unhappy  fate  of 
the  pretty  stranger.  If  it  flew  on  board  to  escape  a  dolphin's 
jaws  ;  how  fatal  its  mistake !  and  if  allured  by  the  ship's  lights, 
it  is  an  emblem  of  many  a  country  youth,  whom  the  glare  of  city 
life  has  drawn  from  home  to  his  destruction.  While  thus  mus 
ing,  the  captain  told  the  cook  to  fry  it  for  breakfast.  There 
was  nothing  outre  in  this,  but  it  grated  strangely  on  my  medi 
tations  and  dispersed  them. 

Sth.  Wind  moderated,  but  the  swell  little  abated.  It  takes 
time  for  an  uproarious  ocean  to  settle  down  after  the  disturbing 
cause  has  ceased  to  act.  I  noticed  three  or  four  delicate  yellow 


38  SKETCHES   OF 

flowers,  less  than  a  pea,  growing  out  of  a  partition  joint  in  the 
cabin.  They  were  "the  flowers  of  death,"  the  "Immortelle" 
of  French  florists  and  undertakers.  Cultivated  in  grave-yards, 
of  them  wreaths  for  the  dead  are  formed.  Welcome  at  sea  as 
every  trifling  incident  is,  there  are  those,  in  whom  ancient  su 
perstitions  live,  that  would  have  construed  the  appearance  of 
these  pretty  things  into  an  intimation  that  the  fate  of  Cloudesly 
Shovel,  and  the  myriads  who  have  found  coffins  in  cabins  and 
cemeteries  in  sunken  ships,  was  about  to  be  ours.  The  vessel 
had  taken  a  cargo  of  cotton  to  Europe,  the  cabin  having  been 
filled  as  well  as  the  hold,  and  in  that  way  the  seeds  probably 
found  their  way  into  her. 

Wt/t.  A  swelling  sea,  but  a  glorious  day.  Hitherto  we  have 
received  the  wind  on  the  starboard,  but  having  this  morning 
crossed  the  edge  of  the  great  trading  current,  the  larboard  side 
is  turned  to  it. 

I  pity  those  who  could  sail  in  such  a  day  as  this,  and  under 
the  canopies  that  covered  us,  without  perceiving  God's  love  of 
the  beautiful,  and  the  means  every  where  provided  to  foster  the 
taste  in  man.  Were  I  a  painter,  I  would  fill  portfolios  with 
oceanic  skies,  from  the  gorgeous  to  the  plain,  dark,  and  awful. 
Copies  will  in  time  be  required  by  philosophy.  Of  several  rich 
scenes,  I  jotted  particulars  of  one :  a  narrow,  slate-colored  rib 
bon  circumscribed  the  horizon,  and  upon  it  reposed  a  broad  belt 
of  vermilion,  interspersed  with  soft  dashes  of  India-ink,  shaded 
with  umber.  This  glowing  field  merged  insensibly  above  into 
a  bright  cream  or  yellow — a  new  firmamental  tint — and  this 
into  a  delicate  pale  green,  which  deepened  upward  as  it  ap 
proached  the  summit  of  the  dome,  while  over  all  amber-stained 
masses  floated,  diminishing  in  size,  but  deepening  in  tone  as 
they  descended,  and  varying  in  figure  every  where. 

12th.  Another  gale,  and  the  ship  practicing  the  polka.  Sun 
veiled  since  yesterday  morning,  when  we  entered  the  tropic. 
As  the  captain  and  I  were  conversing  just  within  the  cabin- 
door,  something  came  flashing  between  us  and  dropped  on  the 
floor — a  flying-fish,  allured  by  the  lamp.  Nearly  killed  by  the 
blow,  it  died  before  a  bucket  of  water  to  put  it  in  could  be 
drawn.  Others  came  on  board  during  the  night.  We  are  ap 
proaching  latitudes  13°  and  14°,  called  "  Flying-fish  Latitudes," 


LIFE   IN    BRAZIL.  39 

from  the  fish  abounding  in  those  parallels.  Such  is  the  veloc 
ity  of  their  motions,  that  a  portion  of  the  nose  or  scalp  is  left 
wherever  they  strike ;  marks  are  numerous  on  the  ship's  sides. 

\3th.  The  sun  just  showed  his  face  and  left  us.  Thermom 
eter,  at  sunrise,  72°  ;  noon,  73°  ;  sunset,  72°.  For  the  last 
ten  days  the  rise  of  the  mercury  has  seldom  exceeded  three  de 
grees  between  daylight  and  evening,  often  not  two.  The  wind 
is  strong  from  the  east,  and  brings  with  it  a  red  impalpable 
powder,  whose  presence  is  visible  on  the  windward  side  of  the 
sails  and  rigging,  and  is  thought  to  have  been  collecting  for  the 
past  two  days.  It  is  only  by  bringing  the  burr  or  loose  fibres 
on  the  outside  of  a  rope  between  the  eye  and  the  sun  that  its 
presence  and  color  are  made  manifest.  The  captain  calls  it 
"African  sand" — says  he  has  observed  the  like  before.  The 
moon  this  evening,  as  well  as  the  sun  during  the  day,  obscured 
by  mist ;  supposed  to  be,  in  some  measure,  caused  by  the  at 
mosphere  being  surcharged  with  the  dust. 

I4:th.  Air,  at  sunrise,  72° ;  at  2  P.M.,  76°  ;  at  sunset,  74°. 
A  blandness  not  felt  before  prevails.  Sun  obscured  all  day. 
Spent  most  of  it  watching  the  movements  of  flying-fish.  Schools 
of  fifty  to  a  hundred  every  now  and  then  sprang  up  and  darted 
off  on  either  hand  as  we  approached,  reminding  one  of  coveys 
of  quails  and  other  game  disturbed  on  moors  or  prairies.  I 
could  hardly  persuade  myself  they  were  not  birds. 

At  and  after  sunset  appeared  panoramic  paintings,  which  no 
human  pencil  could  approximate,  nor  human  pen  portray  half 
their  beauties.  Imagine  the  zenith  of  azure  diminishing  in  tone 
down  one  third  of  the  vault,  and  there  blending  into  living  em 
erald,  which,  as  it  descended,  vanished  through  a  straw  tint  into 
brilliant  white  at  25°  above,  and  continued  with  increasing 
brightness  near  to  the  horizon.  The  heaving  waves  at  our  feet, 
constituting  the  dark  and  bold  foreground  of  the  picture,  had 
dwindled  into  rest,  and  a  pale  band  of  misty  brown,  5°  or  6° 
in  depth,  ran,  as  usual,  round  the  horizon,  its  upper  and  broken 
edge,  of  course,  in  strong  relief. 

Upon  it  rested,  in  one  line,  two  adjoining  streaks  or  short 
strata,  of  unequal  length,  densely  black,  and  shaded  mellow 
with  umber.  Two  smaller  lay  just  above,  between  one  of  which 
and  the  longest  below  the  glowing  orb  peeped  out.  They  did 


40  SKETCHES    OF 

not  open  sufficiently  to  show  the  perfect  ball ;  portions  of  its 
upper  and  lower  boundaries  were  hid.  Three  more  small  strata, 
of  a  deep  chocolate  hue,  were  gracefully  arrayed  above,  in  man 
ner  of  an  eyebrow.  Behind,  and  stretching  far  above,  was 
something  like  a  fawn-colored  fan,  half  opened,  whose  leaves 
were  marked  with  silver  rays,  proceeding  from  and  centring  in 
the  orb.  A  similar  fan  reversed  was  unfolded  immediately  be 
neath,  but  assumed  a  darker  shade  from  the  misty  belt  over 
which  it  spread.  And  now  the  finest  trait — some  eight  or  nine 
cumuli,  picturesquely  shaped,  and  of  the  purest  cream  color, 
formed  a  broken  arch  over  the  whole.  The  crown  of  this  wide 
curve  reached  high  into  the  emerald  field ;  its  wings  of  smaller 
masses  descended  through  the  glistening  cream  and  white  near 
ly  to  the  dark  band  at  the  base  of  all.  The  highest  portions 
of  it  were  of  a  lighter  tinge  than  those  below,  so  much  so  that 
in  the  varying  backgrounds  the  whole  appeared  in  equal  relief. 
I  never  saw  nor  imagined  a  scene  so  purely  chaste  and  cap 
tivating,  and  never  expect  to  see  the  like  again. 

As  the  sun  sunk,  the  scene  changed  into  another  about  as 
rich  and  novel.  The  clouds  gradually  turned  to  chocolate,  and 
the  groundwork  to  cream,  which  lightened  in  tone  upward. 

Again,  the  zenith  next  was  purple,  which  merged  below  into 
crimson,  this  into  pink,  and  this  into  a  light  and  dead  yellow, 
which  touched  the  narrow  band  at  the  horizon,  now  between 
cinereous  and  slate.  Clouds,  varying  in  figure  and  magnitude, 
floated  over  this  gorgeous  groundwork,  all  of  deep  umber,  their 
lower  sides  showing  edges  of  red  more  or  less  vivid. 

loth,  6  A.M.  Air,  74° ;  rose  during  the  day  to  76°,  and 
was  at  that  two  hours  after  the  sun  went  down.  By  7  A.M., 
the  ash-tinged  curtain  vanished.  At  8,  the  king  of  day  was 
still  concealed  by  a  moderate-sized  cloud,  which  rose  with  him. 
By  9  he  threw  it  off,  and  shone  in  undiminished  glory.  The 
phenomenon  of  his  being  thus  accompanied  with  a  rising  screen, 
as  if  to  conceal  him  till  his  toilet  is  completed,  is  common.  In 
evenings,  similar  attendants  wait  on  him  till  he  sinks  out  of 
sight. 

Flying-fish  numerous.  Flocks,  of  from  twenty  to  a  hundred, 
in  one  case  twice  that  number,  spring  up  as  the  ship  plows  in 
among  them.  They  seem  to  take  the  air  for  pleasure  as  well 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  41 

as  to  escape  danger,  groups  and  individuals  being  observed  leap 
ing  and  making  short  trips  as  if  in  mere  wantonness.  They  fly 
low,  seldom  mounting  higher  than  six  or  eight  feet,  but  they 
have  the  power  to  rise  and  fall  with  the  heaving  surface,  and  to 
change  their  direction  laterally.  While  the  greater  part  of  a 
group  goes  off  in  a  right  line,  individuals  turn  aside  and  pursue 
different  courses,  just  like  birds  disturbed  in  a  rice  or  wheat 
field.  Sometimes  you  are  ready  to  swear  they  are  swallows 
skimming  along  for  flies,  so  strongly  do  they,  in  certain  lights, 
resemble  them.  "When  going  in  a  direct  line  from  you,  their 
black  backs  are  foreshortened,  and  the  wings  in  relief.  In  some 
positions  the  fluttering  of  these  organs  is  distinctly  visible,  re 
sembling  trembling  plates  of  mica. 

The  distance  they  pass  over  varies  with  the  impulse  that 
rouses  them.  While  some  descend  not  far  from  you,  others, 
more  timid,  dart  far  away.  The  ordinary  flight  of  a  group  may 
be  averaged  at  two  hundred  feet,  but  some  proceed  four  or  five 
times  that  distance.  I  have  seen  single  fish  pass  over  three 
hundred  yards. 

At  11  A.M.,  the  sun  again  obscured  by  a  dark  brown  cloud 
of  moderate  size,  beneath  which  a  drab  curtain  stretches  out, 
bordered  with  a  wide  cinereous  hem  below.  From  the  concealed 
orb,  white  and  cream-tinted  streams  descend,  producing  a  soft 
and  singular  contrast  with  the  bright  blue  and  green  grounds 
above,  with  their  light  floating  masses.  In  the  afternoon  an 
other  rich  groundwork  of  cream  appeared,  and  upon  it  a  nu 
merous  flock  of  chocolate  fleeces,  all  edged  with  white  and  sil 
ver a  glorious  picture !  The  day's  drop-scene  was  almost  as 

ravishing  as  that  of  yesterday,  exhibiting  much  the  same  colors, 
but  differently  disposed.  A  few  particulars  may  give  artists  an 
idea  of  its  character.  The  zenith  blue,  vanishing  into  greenish 
white,  and  thence  into  vivid  white  at  about  half  way  down  the 
vault ;  then  a  light  cream  tint  commenced,  and  continued  in 
creasing  in  depth  of  tone  to  the  ribbon  of  slate  at  the  horizon. 
Words  are  wanting  to  describe  the  richness  of  this  cream  below, 
its  delicacy  above,  and  purity  throughout.  The  sun  was  about 
8°  above  the  horizon,  glowing  as  yesterday  like  an  eye  of  molt 
en  gold  between  eyelids  of  densest  jet. 

Six  or  seven  degrees  above  him  lay  a  dark  brown  fleece  not 


42  SKETCHES    OF 

less  than  20°  in  length  and  4°  in  depth,  and,  but  for  some  patch 
es  resembling  dark  tortoise-shell,  might  be  called  a  raven  black, 
In  front  of  this  shot  up  from  the  orb  a  fan  of  rays,  and  a  similar 
one  opened  below  him.  Each  did  not  exceed  a  sextant,  or  sixth 
part  of  a  circle.  Their  effect,  relieved  and  modified  as  they 
were  by  the  different-colored  media,  was  of  course  indescriba 
ble.  Then,  on  either  hand,  and  all  above,  were  seen  single 
clouds  of  varying  forms  and  sizes,  all  of  a  rich  chocolate  hue, 
their  under  sides  being  darkest,  and  edged  with  silver.  Those 
lowest  were  deeper  toned  than  those  above.  Their  longer  axes 
were  inclined  to  the  departing  luminary,  and  moved  after  him, 
as  if  hastening  to  bid  him  good-night. 

These  cream-colored  scenes  might  be  named  "Quaker  skies," 
for  here  the  heavens,  in  their  loveliest  costume,  not  only  sanc 
tion,  but  adopt  the  very  hues  that  pretty  sisters  of  the  sect  pre 
fer.  Can  George  Fox,  William  Penn,  or  other  voyaging  patri 
archs  of  the  Friends,  while  on  missions  over  seas,  have  received 
their  canonical  colors  immediately  from  above  ?  caught  the  idea 
and  inspiration  literally  from  the  clouds  ? 

Happily  was  the  solar  orb  made  patron  of  the  fine  arts.  Un 
rivaled  scene-painter  as  he  is  to  this  and  some  scores  more  of 
worlds,  it  is  to  me  inconceivable  that  he  can  turn  from  planeta 
ry  easels  pictures  excelling  those  of  yesterday  and  to-day. 

16th.  Air,  at  sunrise,  76° ;  at  sunset,  78°  ;  water,  79°.  The 
red  dust  obviously  accumulating ;  one  of  the  fore-sails,  an  old 
one,  looks  as  if  it  had  received  a  coat  of  light  brick-colored 
paint,  so  much  and  evenly  has  the  dust  collected  on  it.  We 
are  opposite  Senegambia  and  Soudan,  which  border  on  the  Great 
Desert,  whence  the  captain  thinks  the  shower  comes.  He  sent 
a  man  aloft  to  collect  specimens  for  me,  but,  after  several  in 
effectual  trials,  I  sent  up  a  sheet  of  foolscap  paper,  which  ho 
rubbed  over  the  sail,  and  sent  it  down  coated  over  with  a  light 
reddish  or  pale  brick-colored  tint.  The  particles  are  so  minute, 
and  adhere  so  firmly  to  the  villous  nap,  that  no  other  way  oc 
curred  to  me  to  obtain  them.* 

*  Most  of  this  colored  sheet  was  distributed  to  friends.  Professor  Girard,  of  the 
Smithsonian  Institution,  identified  the  dust  with  the  atmospheric  infusoria,  of  Ehren- 
berg.  To  it  the  predominance  of  the  cream  color  in  the  celestial  paintings  was  most 
probably  due.  See  "Red  Fogs  and  Sea  Dust"  in  Maury's  Winds  and  Currents. 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  43 

Flying-fish  are  exceedingly  numerous.  Every  where  they 
are  darting  out  of  and  playing  over  the  liquid  furrows,  obvious 
ly  enjoying  themselves  as  they  spring  from  wave  to  wave,  and 
turning  their  pearly  sides  and  snowy  abdomens  to  view.  There 
is  no  watching  them  frisking  over  the  green  uneven  surface 
without  reverting  to  wrens  and  linnets  in  their  native  meads. 
Voice  only  is  wanting  to  perfect  the  illusion ;  but,  though  ter 
restrial  glades  resound  with  vocal  melody,  the  ocean  has  no 
songsters. 

Kirby,  Roget,  and  other  naturalists,  who  teach  that  the  wings 
of  flying-fish  are  only  buoyant,  not  progressive  organs,  are  mis 
taken — decidedly  so. 

The  ground  of  the  evening's  drop-scene  was  a  light  and  dead 
yellow. 

Vlth,  6A.M.  Air,  78°;  water,  79.5°;  barometer,  30.1°. 
The  wind  wavers  as  if  about  to  leave  us.  Sea  smooth ;  air 
balmy,  but  very  damp.  Toward  evening  the  solar  disk  shone 
feebly  through  the  dense  mist  unaccompanied  by  a  single  ray. 

18th,  6A.M.  Air  79.5°;  water,  80°  ;  barometer,  30.1°.  A 
universal  haze.  "We  are  moving  through  a  sea  of  vapor ;  our 
clothes  are  damp  as  if  wetted  with  a  sponge.  More  symptoms 
of  having  reached  the  southern  border  of  the  northeast  trades. 
The  water  moves  in  light  swells,  resembling  waving  grain,  while 
here  and  there  a  solitary  fish  springs  up  like  a  lapwing  in  a  cop 
pice.  Toward  evening  some  dull  fawn,  cream,  and  chocolate 
tints  came  out. 

The  sea  and  sky  present  the  figure  of  a  meniscus :  I  am  prob 
ably  mistaken,  but  I  fancy  I  can  detect  the  liquid  convex  be 
neath  the  ethereal  concave.  Perhaps  the  illusion,  if  it  be  one, 
is  partly  due  to  watching  vessels  coming  up  the  watery  curve 
before  us,  and  passing  down  it  in  our  rear,  as  one  did  yesterday. 

Noon.  Barometer,  29.5°.  The  men,  reclining  at  ease  in  their 
Sunday  attire,  are  roused  in  a  twinkling  to  take  in  sail.  Ere 
they  succeeded,  a  portentous  whizzing  reached  us,  and  the  ship 
at  once  changed  her  easy,  lounging  pace  into  a  dancing  one ; 
the  sky  meanwhile,  shrouded  in  blackness,  poured  down  rain 
as  from  a  broken  waterspout.  In  four  minutes  the  thermome 
ter  fell  from  82°  to  77°.  The  change  was  not  less  in  theper- 
sonnel  of  men  and  officers.  They  were  drenched,  and  the  cap- 


44  SKETCHES   OF 

tain,  in  his  oilskin  chemise,  appeared  as  if  he  had  been  plunged 
in  copal  varnish,  hands,  face,  and  all — a  marine  Achilles  dipped 
in  water-proof. 

By  1  P.M.  the  squall  was  over.  As  the  atmosphere  cleared, 
a  vessel  was  seen  coming  up  in  the  horizon  before  us.  As  she 
rose,  her  topmast  was  missing,  and  soon  a  signal  to  speak  us 
was  hoisted.  She  was  a  British  bark,  laden  with  copper  ore 
from  Peru ;  had  lost  a  mast,  two  jib-booms,  and  two  men  in 
rounding  the  Horn.  In  a  ragged  condition,  and  short  of  bread, 
Captain  Smith  supplied  her  with  flour,  for  which  he  refused  pay. 
She  crossed  the  line  yesterday.  After  learning  that  she  was  in 
need  of  nothing  more,  we  hoisted  sail,  and  went  on  our  way 
with  gladness  and  lightness  of  heart,  conscious  of  having  done 
good  on  this  Sabbath-day. 

19^  6  A.M.  Air,  78° ;  water,  80°  ;  barometer,  30°.  The 
sun  rose  in  resplendent  beauty.  The  scene  drew  forth  excla 
mations  of  wonder  and  delight.  The  entire  expanse  was  pro 
fusely  studded  with  every  variety  of  celestial  ornament.  Snow- 
white  figures  floated  in  azure  ;  others,  of  dark  tortoise-shell  and 
ruby,  over  grounds  of  green  and  cream,  while  rich  chocolate 
masses  moved  over  a  lighter  cream  and  white.  Beneath  all 
were  dashes  of  jet  amid  beams  of  molten  gold. 

In  half  an  hour  the  whole  was  rolled  up  and  a  leaden  screen 
let  down.  Now  in  the  region  of  "the  Variables,"  we  have  ev 
ery  kind  of  weather  in  twenty-four  hours.  Early  this  morning 
we  were  making  three  knots ;  at  ten,  six ;  at  eleven,  a  calm.  At 
seven,  a  sky  to  enchant  an  angel ;  before  eight,  one  of  unbroken 
gloom.  The  clouds  cleared  away  for  a  few  minutes  at  noon, 
affording  an  opportunity  to  ascertain  our  position,  viz.,  forty 
miles  north  of  the  line,  having  passed  the  rocks  of  St.  Paul,  for 
which  we  had  been  looking  out. 

Gulls  hovered  about  us  to-day.  While  they  and  a  nautilus 
or  two  enlivened  the  scene  without,  a  young  house-fly  amused 
us  at  dinner.  Flitting  from  dish  to  dish,  it  enjoyed  itself. 
Whence  it  came  we  knew  not,  unless  it  left  New  York  in  the 
vessel  in  a  torpid  state,  and  is  now  resuscitated  by  the  genial 
heat,  while  chill  winter  reigns  over  its  native  place. 

Cream-tinted  clouds  appeared  for  the  last  time  to-day.  The 
red  dust  is  also  going ;  the  rains  have  washed  nearly  all  of  it 
away. 


LIFE    IN   BRAZIL.  45 

Showers,  squalls,  and  calms.  Air,  at  sunrise,  78°  ; 
water,  78°.  Surprised  at  the  equality,  Mr.  Little,  the  mate,  a 
young  officer  of  superior  talents  and  attainments,  and  I  repeated 
the  experiment  with  fresh  buckets  hastily  drawn  up,  but  the  re 
sult  was  confirmed.  Can  the  rain  have  wrought  a  diminution 
of  2°  in  the  ocean's  temperature  since  yesterday  ?  This  region 
is  properly  named ;  it  is  one  of  smiles  and  tears,  gloom  and 
brightness,  of  feeble  gusts  and  prolonged  stillness.  Vessels 
are  sometimes  becalmed  for  weeks,  and,  with  their  occupants,  be 
come  parboiled  or  half  roasted.  More  fortunate,  a  light  broken 
breeze  kept  us  on  the  move  until  a  genuine  southeast  trade 
caught  us  at  1°  south,  when  the  ship's  head  was  turned  south 
west.  South  America  resembles,  as  all  know,  a  lean  ham, 
whose  Patagonian  shank  and  knuckle  terminate  at  Cape  Horn, 
and  the  eastern  side  of  its  shoulder  at  Cape  Koque,  round  which 
we  now  are  edging. 

Although  the  sea  is  here  a  boiler  of  hot  water,  and  the  fire 
that  heats  it  glowing  overhead,  the  air  is  not  so  much  heated  as 
might  be  supposed.  The  dense  mist  acts  as  a  screen  that  mit 
igates  the  fierceness  of  the  solar  shafts — blunts  them  where  they 
are  keenest.  And — what  never  fails  to  excite  admiration  in  me— 
when  this  screen  becomes  attenuated  and  about  to  be  dispersed, 
portions  collect  into  clouds  in  front  of  the  sun,  rise  with  him, 
and  thus  mellow  his  ardent  rays  by  veiling  his  resplendence. 
We  have  not  yet  got  directly  under  him,  as  he  is  running  the 
southern  line  of  the  ecliptic,  but  we  soon  shall  meet  him,  and 
then  every  one  of  us  will  be  in  the  predicament  of  "the  man 
who  lost  his  shadow." 

We  took  leave  of  the  north  star  a  few  nights  ago,  and  now 
a  new  heaven  opens  on  us.  The  "Magellan  clouds"  were  vis 
ible  last  night.  There  are  those  who  pride  themselves  on  hav 
ing  stood  on  Cheops  and  in  classic  capitals.  "  God,"  say  the 
people  of  Cairo,  "  has  such  a  love  for  their  city  that  he  casts 
his  eyes  in  complacency  on  it  seven  times  a  day/'  "  See  Na 
ples  and  die,  since  nothing  else  is  worth  looking  at,"  observe 
others.  I  would  say,  "Cross  an  ocean,"  and  then  you  may 
conclude  that  nothing  more  ancient,  unique,  and  sublime  is  to 
be  seen — nothing  more  suggestive  of  new  ideas,  pleasures,  feel 
ings,  hopes,  fears,  &c.  "  Unstable  as  water"  is  a  saying  as  old 


46  SKETCHES   OF 

as  the  Pharaohs ;  but,  for  all  that,  nothing  has  been  more  per 
manent  :  it  is  the  only  element  that  remains  so.  A  grand  agent 
in  changing  the  condition  of  other  things,  it  remains  itself  un 
changed.  The  ocean  is  now  what  it  was  when  its  waves  laved 
the  shores  of  a  lifeless  world. 

21^,  6  A.M.  Air,  78°  ;  water,  79°  ;  barometer,  30°.  At 
noon,  air  83°,  the  highest  range  yet  attained.  At  6  P.M.,  air, 
79.75°.  Water  precisely  the  same  as  before  the  sun  rose. 
Clouds  collected  rapidly  at  the  east  to  receive  him ;  not  one  in 
the  west.  The  day,  on  the  whole,  a  pleasant  one,  notwithstand 
ing  the  sun  was  veiled,  like  the  flame  of  a  parlor  lamp  within  a 
frosted  globe  of  glass. 

22d.  Air  and  ocean  alike  in  temperature.  I  can  not  detect 
the  slightest  change  in  the  thermometer  when  plunged  into  the 
sea.  Noon,  air  82°,  and  the  sky  mottled  with  white  and  blue, 
—very  like  the  haunches  of  fat  gray  horses.  This  has  been  a 
heavenly  day — one  fitted  for  the  blessed.  Sea-birds  fluttered 
round,  and  occasionally  flying-fish  diverted  us.  In  making  off, 
some  took  to  leeward,  and  others  went  directly  against  the 
wind.  Some  kept  along  parallel  with  us,  and  were  occasion 
ally  canted  half  over  by  the  wind  blowing  against  their  sides. 
Examples  of  progress  by  successive  bounds,  and  of  varying  their 
course  when  in  the  air,  occurred.  Each  flock  follows  a  leader, 
and  when  he  changes  the  direction  of  flight,  the  rest  conform  to 
it.  Passed  to-day  the  island  of  Fernando  Norohna.  At  6 
P.M.,  air  and  water  79°. 

24^.  Yesterday,  at  6  A.M.,  air  and  water  79°.  This  morn 
ing  they  are  79.4°  and  80.1°;  barometer,  30.1°.  The  day 
opened  with  the  first  of  a  new  series  of  paintings  ;  the  blue  ex 
panse  was  thickly  sprinkled  with  fancy  masses  of  purest  white, 
which  became  tinged  and  edged  with  red,  brown,  chocolate,  and 
gold.  The  ocean  was  gently  rippled,  and  over  it  played  a  mod 
erate  breeze.  Another  day's  sailing  in  Elysium.  At  noon,  air 
82°.  A  two-feet  rule  suspended  by  a  thread  cast  a  four-inch 
shadow.  6  P.M.,  air,  80°  ;  water,  80°. 

25^,  6  A.M.  Air,  79°;  water,  80°;  barometer,  30.1°.  6 
P.M.,  air,  80°  ;  water,  80.5°.  Air,  at  noon,  82°.  Sailed  to 
day  as  steadily  as  if  traveling  on  a  rail-road,  and  under  a  sky 
minutely  mottled  in  blue  and  white,  in  imitation  of  the  prettily- 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  47 

rippled  water.  For  two  weeks  we  have  had  twenty-one  sails 
exposed  to  the  motive  currents,  and  seldom  have  they  been  dis 
turbed  except  when  tightening  the  ropes. 

Brazilians  have  here  a  splendid  theatre  for  steam  navigation, 
extending  over  thirty  degrees  of  latitude,  and  bordering  one  of 
the  choicest  departments  of  the  earth — one  comparatively  freo 
from  storms,  and  where  the  severities  of  northern  seas  and 
climes  are  wholly  unknown. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Diagram  of  the  Ship's  Motions. — The  Ravels  at  Sea. — Sailing  in  Elysium. — 
Worlds  are  Ships  of  the  Almighty  Merchant. — The  Nebulse  his  Ship-yards. — 
The  Ocean  a  Type  of  the  Sea  of  Life. — Abrolhos  and  Squalls. — Cape  Frio. — 
Land-breeze. — Sea-breeze. — Sugar-loaf. — Enter  the  Bay. — Former  Treatment 
of  Foreigners. — Table  of  Latitudes  and  Longitudes  during  the  Voyage. 

COULD  the  complexity  and  infinity  of  curves  one's  person  is 
compelled  to  go  through  be  transferred  to  paper,  they  would  con 
vey  to  landsmen  a  better  idea  than  could  otherwise  be  imparted 
of  the  pitchings,  swings,  and  shakes  seafarers  undergo ;  of  the 
intricate  and  erratic  lines  their  heads,  without  ceasing,  trace  in 
air.  The  best  apology  for  sea-sick  travelers,  it  would  excite 
surprise  that  the  brains  of  many  are  not  addled. 

Standing  close  to  the  mainmast  and  looking  up,  its  topmost 
extremity  is  seen  to  sweep  from  star  to  star,  or  cloud  to  cloud, 
tracing  in  the  firmament  diagrams  that  truly  mark  the  vessel's 
movements.  To  imitate  this  would  serve  the  purpose,  and  the 
barometer,  freely  suspended  on  gimbals,  with  a  heavy  mass  of 
mercury  at  its  bottom,  suggested  the  ready  means.  Its  top 
reached  nearly  to  a  level  with  the  beams  of  the  cabin-roof  un 
der  the  skylight.  This  was  removed  in  fine  weather,  and  a  pen 
cil  (point  upward)  fixed  to  the  instrument,  six  or  seven  inches 
from  the  point  of  suspension.  An  edge  of  a  letter  sheet  press 
ed  firmly  upon  one  of  the  two  beams  between  which  the  pencil 
was,  and  the  opposite  edge  borne  gently  down  to  bring  and  keep 
the  under  surface  and  central  parts  of  the  paper  in  easy  contact 
with  the  moving  style,  was  all  that  was  necessary  to  obtain  a 
faithful  chart  of  the  vessel's  motions,  except  her  progressive  one, 
and,  consequently,  of  our  own. 


48 


SKETCHES    OF 


The  paper  supplied  the  place  of  the  firmament,  and  the  pen- 
oil  acted  the  part  of  the  mast  (though,  in  point  of  fact,  the  op 
eration  was  reversed).  The  action  of  the  point  was  of  course 
distinctly  seen  on  the  upper  surface  of  the  paper,  as  the  diagram 
progressed  on  the  under  side.  The  slightest  lurch  or  pitch,  and 
every  variation  from  the  horizontal  which  the  vessel's  deck  un 
derwent  were  thus  accurately  delineated  and  recorded  ;  their  di 
rection  and  comparative  extent  also. 


DIAGRAM    ILLUSTRATIVE    OF    THE    SHIP'S    MOTIONS. 

The  annexed  figure  is  a  specimen  from  scores  taken  durimr 
the  voyage.  The  letters  denote  the  position  of  the  vessel :  B, 
her  bows :  E,  the  stern ;  L,  the  larboard,  and  S,  the  starboard 
side.  If  a  line  were  drawn  from  L  to  S,  and  another  from  B  to 
E,  they  would  intersect  in  the  middle  of  the  deck,  where  the 
pencil  was.  Hence  all  deviations  from  that  point,  on  either 
hand,  indicate  rolling  or  lurching,  while  the  rising  and  falling 
of  her  bows  are  shown  by  the  lines  above  and  below  L  S. 
Most  of  the  movements,  it  will  be  seen,  are  combinations  of 
pitching  and  rolling.  There  is  but  one  decided  roll — the  long 
sweep  that  passes  beyond  L  and  S.  The  paper  first  touched 
the  pencil  at  B  and  left  it  at  E.  The  time  it  was  in  contact, 
from  twenty  to  thirty  seconds.  When  the  time  was  prolonged, 
the  lines  became  too  much  involved  to  be  traced  without  diffi 
culty. 

Such  are  the  motions  of  a  ship  in  even  moderate  weather, 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL. 


49 


while  the  changes  in  them  are  endless  and  infinite.  Through 
eternity  no  two  diagrams  could  be  found  alike,  and  yet  to  the 
motions  represented  by  them  every  individual  on  board  must 
conform  to  preserve  his  centre  of  gravity  over  that  of  motion — 
to  keep  his  head  above  his  feet.  If  it  ever  become  worth  while 
to  underwriters,  vessels  could  be  made  to  register  every  strain 
they  may  be  subjected  to.  A  roll  of  paper  unfolding,  as  in  the 
electric  telegraph,  has  only  to  be  adapted  to  a  pencil  properly 
suspended. 

Some  phrenologists  insist  on  organs  of  flexibility  and  per 
pendicularity.  Such  must  be  largely  cultivated  in  seamen,  for 
two  of  our  men  rival  feline  tribes  in  suppleness  of  spine,  climb 
ing  like  cougars,  and  accommodating  themselves  to  the  rolling 
base  they  tread  on  with  enviable  felicity.  Insensibly  turning, 
twisting,  leaning,  they  preserve  their  balance  like  what  they 
really  are — systems  of  walking  gimbals.  Whatever  the  art  or 
faculty  be,  it  differs  from  that  of  tumblers  on  shore.  These, 
when  at  sea,  often  dance  and  tumble  against  their  will,  having 
no  fixed  base  to  start  from  or  return  to,  and  no  regularity  in  a 

ship's  pitching  to  time  their  movements  by.      Captain  S 

took  out  the  Havel  family  to  Pernambuco,  and  found  the  most 
elastic  and  agile  on  the  stage  mere  louts  on  board.  They  who 
trod  the  tight  rope  confident  as  on  a  pavement,  who,  with  bod 
ies  pendent,  skated  along  ceilings,  and  even  he  who,  with  pre 
ternatural  springs  and  climbings,  rivaled  monkeys,  scrambled 
over  the  deck  on  all  fours. 

During  a  part  of  the 
voyage  I  slept  in  a  cot 
suspended  from  the  cabin 
ceiling,  and,  from  curios 
ity,  attached  a  pencil  to  it, 
whose  point  acted  on  a 
yielding  sheet  of  paste 
board.  Of  the  diagrams 
the  annexed  one  is  an  ex 
ample. 

26^,  6A.M.  An-,  70°; 
water,  80.4°;  barometer, 
30.1°.     At  11  A.M.,  air, 
D 


50  SKETCHES    OF 

82.5°.  Noon,  air,  82°.  6  P.M.,  air,  80° ;  water,  80.2°.  The 
shadow  of  a  flour-barrel,  at  noon,  was  4  inches  ;  that  of  a  three- 
legged  stool  fell  within  its  feet.  Did  the  Oriental  greeting, 
"  May  your  shadow  never  be  less,"  mean,  "May  you  never  leave 
home, "or  does  it  allude  to  man  in  sickness  as  a  prostrated  gno 
mon,  and  in  the  grave  to  a  buried  one  ?  The  moist  air  makes 
sad  work  with  our  stores  and  clothing.  It  tests  the  quality  of  sil 
ver-ware  ;  some  new  pieces  showed  a  large  dose  of  copper,  parts 
being  green  as  verditer.  A  few  dolphins  and  bonitos  played  at 
the  bows,  and  a  sword-fish,  twelve  feet  long,  with  a  weapon  one 
third  of  that,  came  near,  and,  after  a  reconnoisance,  departed. 

27^,  6A.M.  Air,  79° ;  water,  80° ;  barometer,  30°.  6  P.M., 
air,  79°  ;  water,  80.1°.  Passed  Bahia  yesterday.  There  are 
those  whose  minds  illumine  others,  and  whose  virtues  warm 
into  life  the  best  affections  of  their  kind,  but  who  shrink  from 
notoriety  and  vulgar  gaze,  content  to  bless  unseen,  happy  with 
out  acknowledgments.  Of  such  was  the  sun  an  emblem  to-day ; 
he  vivified,  adorned,  and  placed  in  relief  all  things  but  himself. 

A  night  serenely  beautiful  as  ever  elicited  admiration  from  or 
kindled  devotion  in  a  patriarch's  breast — mild  as  an  evening  in 
heaven.  Myriads  of  orbs  in  undimmed  radiance  shine  above 
us,  while  cooling  zephyrs  delightfully  waft  us  onward.  The 
horizon,  shifting  imperceptibly  as  we  near  it,  courts  us  forward, 
and  happily  conceals  the  liquid  immensity  we  float  on.  In  the 
larger  planets,  how  much  more  extensive  must  be  views  at  sea 
— how  much  more  capacious  the  celestial  canopies!  Treading 
the  deck  on  such  a  night  as  this,  it  is  impossible  not  to  forget  the 
petty  grovelings  and  selfishnesses  of  life  in  the  awful  grandeur 
of  the  scene,  or  not  to  feel  a  relationship  between  us  and  the  in 
habitants  of  the  worlds  in  sight.  For  my  part,  I  can  not  but 
believe  that  at  this  very  moment  navigators  are  crossing  oceans 
in  yonder  spheres,  bearing,  like  us,  the  products  of  one  clime 
to  another,  and  serving  as  a  bond  of  brotherhood  to  peoples  in 
districts  the  most  remote.  Sailors  and  trade  in  other  worlds ! 
Yes ;  why  not  ?  Physical  beings  must  have  physical  employ 
ments,  and  wherever  variety  is  the  law  of  mind  and  matter,  di 
versity  of  pursuit  must  follow.  For  every  type  of  genius  and 
class  of  intellects  congenial  theatres  of  exertion  are  undoubted 
ly  provided. 


LIFE    IN   BRAZIL.  51 

The  idea  of  navigation  is  singularly  apposite  to  the  heavens, 
and  is  suggested  by  them.  What  are  all  those  floating  orbs 
but  ships  of  the  Almighty  Merchant ;  ranged  in  fleets,  loaded 
with  passengers  and  provisions  ;  varying  in  their  tonnage, 
courses,  distances,  and  speed;  in  their  freights,  accommodations, 
and  destinations  ?  Why  has  God  launched  us  in  the  same  ocean, 
given  us  powers  of  vision  to  perceive,  and  intellects  to  compre 
hend  their  magnitudes,  densities,  and  movements,  if  not  to  ac 
custom  us  to  look  out  of  our  own  small  bark  and  identify  it  as 
one  of  them  ?  Why  else  has  he  implanted  within  us  desires 
to  know  something  about  others  who  are  sailing  in  them  ?  As 
they  and  we  are  children  of  the  same  Parent,  how  natural  the 
desire  to  become  acquainted  with  them !  Seamen  are  glad  to 
recognize  vessels  belonging  to  the  same  port  or  country  with 
themselves,  and  when  too  distant  for  verbal  communication, 
with  what  alacrity  they  run  up  their  flags !  Now  it  is  but  an 
extension  of  the  same  social  principle  that  leads  us  to  inquire 
after  those  who,  embarked  011  other  planets,  belong  to  the  same 
owner  and  fleet  with  ourselves.  Is  it  not  an  innocent  wish  to 
have  a  peep  into  their  vessels,  and  know  how  they  do  ?  or  to  ex 
change  signals  with  them,  and,  if  possible,  with  those  sailing  in 
more  distant  parts  of  the  same  ocean  ? 

Then  we  might  extend  our  thoughts  to  yonder  nebulae,  the 
ship-yards  of  God  according  to  some  astronomers,  where  vessels 
are  in  the  early  stages  of  construction — some  barely  framed, 
others  just  coming  into  form,  others  more  advanced,  but  not  pre 
pared  for  passengers,  because  not  yet  provisioned.  Oh !  for  the 
removal  of  another  film  from  the  mind's  cornea,  that  we  might 
draw  nearer  to  the  Divine  Builder,  and  clearer  contemplate  his 
doings  !  But  hold  !  were  the  screen  withdrawn,  we  should  pos 
sibly  become  dissatisfied  with  and  unfitted  for  our  duties  here. 
Enough  is  shown  to  make  us  scorn  ourselves  for  neglecting 
kindred  themes  within  our  reach  for  the  paltry  and  sordid  pur 
suits  that  too  generally  absorb  us.  But  better  times  are  open 
ing.  Long-imprisoned  Hope  has  gained  the  quarter-deck,  and 
our  earth's  ship-fever — mental  squalor — will  be  driven  from  her 
holds. 

Leaning  over  the  ship's  rails,  I  could  not  but  think  how  like 
the  ocean  is  the  sea  of  life — a  very  picture  of  it.  The  surface 


52  SKETCHES    OF 

of  life's  waters  is  never  free  from  agitation.  Its  waves  of  hopes 
and  fears  are  ever  raising  and  depressing  man  ;  smiling  and 
frowning  skies  alternately  hang  over  him,  while  breezes,  favor 
able  and  adverse,  checker  his  course,  and  render  it  erratic  as 
that  of  a  tacking  ship.  An  illusive  horizon  encompasseth,  and 
rocks  and  lee-shores  await  him.  Here  all  mortals  are  embarked, 
and  how  diverse  are  their  actions !  Some  float  listlessly  along 
and  drift  among  breakers,  others  sport  in  fine  weather,  and, 
neither  looking  for  nor  prepared  for  squalls,  are  suddenly  in 
gulfed,  while  others,  again,  brace  their  sails  and  steer  direct 
through  fleets  and  wrecks  of  loiterers,  in  spite  of  calms,  oppos 
ing  winds,  and  currents.  Upon  this  sea,  human  spirits,  numer 
ous  and  restless  as  the  waves,  are  always  rising ;  and,  like  these 
watery  forms,  they  fume  and  fret  a  while,  and  vanish — -jostle 
and  dash  against  each  other,  and  sink  unheeded.  Each  wave 
is  a  type  of  a  living  man  and  of  his  brief  career.  Soon  all  that 
now  live  will  disappear  and  be  forgotten ;  for,  notwithstanding 
Notoriety  is  busy  as  ever  in  elevating  here  and  there  her  favor 
ites,  wherein  do  most  of  them  differ  from  yon  solitary  swellings, 
whose  crests  puffs  of  wind  have  raised,  and  but  for  a  moment, 
above  the  general  level  ?  What  a  dark  void  is  the  past !  We 
know  little  more  of  the  successive  shoals  of  human  beings  that 
have  moved  over  the  earth's  surface  than  of  the  heavings  of  an 
cient  oceans. 

28t/i.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  Abrolhos — the  region  of  fogs, 
squalls,  and  showers.  No  seeing  over  a  hundred  yards  ahead. 
At  5  A.M.,  air,  79°  ;  water,  80°  ;  barometer,  29.9°.  At  6, 
rain  fell,  and  by  7,  the  air  reduced  to  75°  ;  and  before  noon,  to 
73°.  Washing  in  sea- water  is  now  like  taking  a  warm  bath. 

29^,  6A.M.  Air,  77°  ;  water,  80°;  barometer,  29.9°.  Lit 
tle  or  no  variation  during  the  day.  We  have  passed  the  sun, 
for  shadows  begin  to  show  themselves  in  opposite  directions  than 
heretofore — at  our  right  instead  of  the  left — in  front  instead  of 
behind  us.  We  are  running  parallel  with  the  shore,  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  it.  A  stiff  breeze  from  northeast 
enables  us  to  plow  onward  magnificently,  throwing  up  furrows 
high  on  either  hand.  For  an  instant,  near  noon,  the  sun  came 
out  again,  and  while  waiting  for  another  glimpse  to  determine 
Ids  position  and  our  own,  the  horizon  behind  us  thickened,  a 


UNIVERSITY 


OF 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  53 

dark  patch  separated  and  began  rapidly  to  ascend.  In  a  twink 
ling  all  hands  were  furling  sails  ;  before  they  were  through, 
darkness  overshadowed  us,  rain  in  large  drops  came  down,  and 
the  ship  moaned  as  if  sensible  of  what  was  coming  ;  another 
moment,  and  she  writhed,  leaped,  lay  down,  recovered,  and 
shook  herself,  and  then  sprang  forward  at  a  bounding  rate.  Be 
reft  of  most  of  her  wings,  she  flew  over  the  roaring  waters,  while 
spray  kept  sweeping  the  deck.  In  ten  minutes  all  was  quiet 
except  the  billows.  At  4  P.M.  we  had  a  similar  flare-up  that 
lasted  longer. 

30^,  sunrise.  Air,  77°  ;  water,  78°.  A  fall  of  2°  in  the  tem 
perature  of  the  water  since  last  night  :  a  sure  sign  of  our  ap 
proaching  soundings.  Luminous  streams,  as  from  ten  thousand 
ajutages,  are  gushing  upward  from  the  solar  fountain,  still  be 
low  the  horizon  ;  like  jets  d'eau,  they  spread  as  they  ascend, 
and  break  at  the  zenith  into  golden  spray.  What  mysteries 
science  has  to  unfold  in  yon  celestial  spring  (now  just  emerging 
into  view),  whence  flow  rivers  of  light  and  life  upon  an  assem 
blage  of  planets  ! 

In  one  short  hour  the  sky  was  in  sackcloth  and  the  sea  in  a 
fury  ;  rain  poured,  and  the  vessel  danced  more  violently  than 
ever.  It  was  impossible  to  stand  without  clinging  to  spars  and 
rigging,  and  even  then  you  tremble  lest  the  hull,  already  half 
capsized,  become  wholly  so.  I  expected  to  see  the  masts  snap 
close  to  the  deck,  so  fearfully  did  they  swing.  The  rain  in 
creased,  and  had  a  marked  effect  on  the  waves.  It  smoothed 
down  their  crests  and  outlines,  and  prevented  collisions.  In 
stead  of  dashing  one  another  into  spray,  they  now  fumed  in 
wardly,  like  the  contents  of  a  caldron  near  the  boiling-point. 
There  was  something  in  this,  combined  with  the  unnatural  dark 
ness,  that  made  one  both  feel  and  fear. 

By  noon  the  weather  cleared,  and  we  began  to  look  out  for 
land.  Sounded  with  a  fifty  fathom  line  without  finding  bottom. 

Throughout  the  voyage  the  ducks  and  geese  invariably  cack 
led  and  screamed  in  answer  to  the  ship's  bell.  They  mistook 
its  sounds  for  those  of  their  native  villages,  and  imagined  the 
ponds  and  fields  they  were  brought  up  in  close  by  :  so  the  sail 
ors  say.  Four  sickly  ducks,  all  that  survive,  were  let  out.  As 
rain  fell,  it  was  pleasing  to  see  how  they  enjoyed  it  —  washing 


54  SKETCHES   OF 

and  nestling  in  it,  and  running  after  what  fell  as  the  lurching 
vessel  threw  it  from  side  to  side.  The  oily  matter  secreted  by 
water-fowl  for  the  dressing  of  their  feathers  must  be  expended 
in  them,  or  its  sources  dried  up,  for  they  were  soaked  with  wa 
ter  like  wet  rags  ;  yet,  for  all  that,  it  was  evidently  a  treat. 

3L<tf.  By  7  A.M.  the  weather  cleared  a  little,  and  Cape  Frio, 
hardly  to  be  distinguished  from  a  cloud,  hove  in  sight — the  first 
land  seen  since  starting.  At  8  A.M.,  water  76°  ;  at  11  it  was 
75° ;  at  noon,  73° ;  by  4  P.M.,  the  Corcovado  and  Sugar-loaf 
in  sight.  At  6,  the  wind  left  us  some  twelve  or  fifteen  miles 
from  the  harbor's  mouth.  Air  68°,  and  the  water  down  to  64° ; 
a  difference  of  16°  from  its  temperature  a  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  out ! 

From  where  we  lie,  the  marine  gateway  presents  a  wide  open 
ing  between  two  mountain  walls  that  rapidly  converge  to  a  nar 
row  opening  at  the  distant  apex,  where  the  water  meets  the  sky, 
and  w-here  the  left  wall  terminates  in  a  slightly-leaning  conical 
mass — "  the  Loaf,"  which  rears  its  head  far  above  the  wall,  and, 
with  the  Corcovado,  a  higher  mass  at  the  other  extremity,  re 
minds  one  of  look-outs  at  the  angles  of  fortifications.  The 
boundary  on  the  right  appears  continuous,  the  effect  of  distance, 
for  several  detached  islands  stand  out  from  it.  Raza  Island,  on 
which  is  the  harbor  light-house,  nearly  faces  the  middle  of  the 
passage,  but  now  is  far  to  the  left.  This  opening  into  the  port 
of  Rio  is  so  clearly  defined  that  there  is  no  mistaking  it,  and  so 
easy  of  access  at  all  seasons  that  pilots  are  unknown.  Every 
skipper,  foreign  and  native,  runs  his  own  craft  in  and  out. 

8  P.M.  No  chance  of  getting  in  to-night.  Thunder  and  light 
ning — the  first  we  have  seen  and  heard  since  leaving  home. 
More  rain,  too,  is  falling,  but  the  sight  of  port  makes  such  things 
trifles,  and  tempts  one  to  snap  the  fingers  at  past  sufferings,  and 
send  them  to  the  winds  that  caused  them. 

February  1.  Made  sail  at  3  A.M.,  but  had  to  anchor  before 
reaching  the  Loaf.  A  morning  more  beautiful  than  this  never 
ushered  in  a  summer's  day  in  Eden.  The  wrater  is  smooth  as 
glass,  and  yet  most  singularly  etched,  in  squares  as  small  and 
uniform  as  those  of  a  plaided  garment :  the  effect  of  impercep 
tible  waves  crossing  each  other  at  right  angles. 

6  A.M.  Yonder  comes  the  land-breeze  down  the  bay :  an  up- 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  55 

right  wall  of  wind,  hundreds  of  miles  in  thickness,  sliding  delib 
erately  toward  us,  and  marking  its  progress  over  the  silver  sur 
face  by  a  line  of  minute  ripples.  It  now  has  reached  the  bows, 
and  passes  over  us  at  the  same  moderate  pace.  It  was  twelve 
seconds  in  going  the  length  of  the  ship. 

Something  like  a  triangular  piece  of  sheet  iron  was  observed 
protruding  above  the  water  and  silently  cutting  through  it — 
the  fin  of  a  shark,  which  hovered  about  us  for  several  hours. 
A  more  agreeable  sight  was  hundreds  of  small  gulls  whirling  in 
the  morning  sun ;  and  still  more  gratifying,  some  half  dozen 
palm-trees — specimens  of  tropical  vegetation  I  was  most  desir 
ous  to  see — in  fine  relief  on  three  mountain  islands,  Pai,  Mai, 
Menina — Father,  Mother,  Child. 

Noon.  The  thermal  balance  now  preponderates  in  favor  of 
the  land,  and  the  aerial  current  of  the  morning  is  reversed.  The 
sea-breeze,  for  which  we  have  been  waiting,  has  set  in,  and  bears 
us  gently  on.  When  near  the  Sugar-loaf — a  bare,  black  mass 
of  granite  nearly  thirteen  hundred  feet  high — we  tacked  and 
crossed  over  to  within  hailing  distance  of  the  Fort  of  St.  Cruz, 
whence  three  interrogatories  were  blown  at  us  through  a  speak 
ing  sarbacan.  What  vessel  ?  Where  from  ?  How  many  days  ? 
The  captain  sent  such  replies  through  his  trumpet  as  brought 
forth  the  prolonged  blast  of  "  Yara  wale-e,"  the  signal  for  us 
to  pass  on. 

Now  within  the  bay,  I  supposed  we  should  not  stop  till 
abreast  of  the  city,  whose  spires  and  windows  were  glittering 
on  the  left  shore,  a  few  miles  ahead ;  but  harbor  regulations  re 
quired  us  to  anchor  near  the  small  island  and  fort  of  Villegag- 
non,  whence  a  covered  barge  brought  alongside  the  port  physi 
cian.  Without  stepping  on  board,  he  inquired  if  any  were  sick, 
required  all  letters  and  newspapers,  even  those  for  the  consign 
ees  ;  asked  for  my  passport,  and  directed  me  to  call  in  three 
days  at  the  police-office,  where  I  would  find  it  with  an  endorse 
ment  authorizing  me  to  take  board  and  lodgings  in  the  city ;  or 
dered  the  captain  to  wait  till  visited  by  the  Custom-house  boat, 
which  might  be  expected  about  4  o'clock,  and  took  his  leave. 
The  sun  is  scorching  hot,  and  the  idea  of  lying  here  inert  for 
three  hours  or  more  is  any  thing  but  agreeable. 

The  treatment  of  masters  and  passengers  was  formerly  in- 


56 


SKETCHES   OF 


suiting  in  the  extreme,  and  even  officers  of  national  vessels  did 
not  escape.  Krusenstein  speaks  of  strangers  being  treated 
with  the  same  insulting  jealousy  as  in  Japan,  while  the  accounts 
of  Captain  Cook  and  Sir  Joseph  Banks  excite  disgust.  It  is 
not  so  now,  though  boarding-officers  are  occasionally  complained 
of.  That,  however,  is  the  case,  more  or  less,  in  every  port,  and 
will  be  till  the  Dayspring  arise,  when  not  a  Custom-house  ex 
ists  to  interfere  with  man  of  one  clime  visiting  and  exchanging 
commodities  with  his  brother  of  every  other. 

The  voyage  having  ended,  a  table  of  the  daily  progress  of  the 
ship  is  annexed,  as  it  may  be  serviceable  with  reference  to  the 
meteorological  facts  noticed. 

VOYAGE  OF  THE  BARQUE  MAZEPPA  FROM  HAMPTON  ROADS  TO 
RIO  JANEIRO. 


IK'itr. 

Latitude 

Longitude. 

Remarks. 

Date. 

Latitude 

Longitude. 

Remarks. 

1845. 

o       / 

o      / 

1846. 

Dec.  21 

36  38 

7244 

Jan.  11 

2°1  12 

33  57 

"     22 

3543 

69  01 

"      12 

18  52 

32  56 

Red  dust. 

"     23 

35  03 

66  01 

"     13 

1607 

31  13 

'     24 

3458 

6523 

«     14 

13  14 

2939 

'     25 

3450 

63  20 

"     15 

10  27 

29  00 

'     26 

3450 

61  25 

"     16 

744 

28  31 

'     27 

3440 

58  26 

"     17 

457 

2743 

'     28 

35  08 

55  33 

"     18 

231 

2723 

tf      on 

3450 

5320 

"     19 

0040 

2755 

< 

"     30 

34  12 

51  40 

'     20 

-40S. 

28  19 

Turned  the  ship  to 

"     31 

3337 

4953 

'     21 

243 

29  19 

[S.W. 

1846. 

'     22 

450 

30  37 

Jan.     1 

31  51 

4747 

'     23 

723 

31  48 

"       2 

31  32 

4550 

'     24 

9  40 

3240 

"       3 

30  58 

4400 

'     25 

11  50 

33  36 

"       4 

3201 

4302 

«     26 

14  15 

34  36 

"       5 

32  28 

42  02 

'     27 

16  20 

3530 

"       6 

"       7 

31  31 

28  59 

4009 
3758 

'     28 
'     29 

18  22 
20  22 

36  30 
38  00 

3y  dead  reckoning 

"       8 

27  10 

3554 

'     30 

22  30 

39  55 

"       9 

2454 

3437 

"     31 

23  05 

4248 

7   P.M.,   at  anchor 

"     10 

23  33 

3437 

off  the  Sugar-loaf. 

LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  57 


CHAPTER  V. 

The  Bay,  City,  and  Suburbs  from  the  Ship. — The  Forts. — I  land  alone. — The  Cat- 
tete. — A  Brazilian  Parlor. — Meeting  of  two  Brothers. 

ALL  is  not  evil  that  seems  so.  While  detained,  the  prospect 
is  favorable  to  obtain  a  correct  idea  of  the  locale  of  the  Brazilian 
capital ;  and  I  have  a  personal  object  to  accomplish,  which 
makes  a  reconnoisance  before  landing  desirable.  We  have  time 
to  take  a  general  sketch. 

The  bay  is  triangular  in  its  outline,  and  admitted  to  be  one 
of  the  safest  and  most  beautiful  harbors  which  the  present  dis 
position  of  the  earth's  waters  has  formed.  It  is  a  basin  over  a 
hundred  miles  in  circumference,  scooped  in  granite  and  walled 
in  by  mountains  whose  sides  and  crests  are  clothed  in  perpetual 
verdure.  But  for  the  small  opening  through  which  we  have 
just  come,  it  would  be  a  lake  hermetically  sealed.  Its  godfa 
thers  mistook  it  for  the  mouth  of  a  large  river,  hence  the  cur 
rent  misnomer. 

It  is  a  bay  of  islands,  being  studded  with  seventy,  large  and 
little,  of  which  some  might  well  have  been  taken  for  "  Islands 
of  the  Blessed" — those  happy  abodes  of  departed  virtuous  spir 
its  formerly  located  on  the  borders  of  the  Western  World.  Its 
shores  are  deeply  scalloped — a  feature  very  conspicuous  where 
we  lie.  The  water  runs  in  behind  the  Fort  of  Santa  Cruz,  and, 
spreading  there,  nearly  insulates  it.  A  mountain  island,  shaped 
like  a  hay-stack,  with  a  small  church  on  its  summit,  separates 
this  fine  cove  from  another  that  stretches  with  some  irregularity 
up  the  bay  to  a  projecting  point,  on  which  the  village  of  San 
Domingo  stands.  Immediately  above  it  the  shore  again  trends 
inward,  forming  a  handsome  semicircular  beach,  the  site  of  the 
town  of  Praya  Grande,  or  city  of  Nictherohy,  immediately  oppo 
site  Rio.  Two  little  steamers  have  crossed  and  recrossed  sev 
eral  times  to-day. 

Without  peering  farther  in  that  direction,  since  remote  ob 
jects  become  indistinct,  let  us  turn  to  the  other  side,  which  has 


58  SKETCHES   OF 

more  attractions.  On  coming  up  with  the  Sugar-loaf,  a  long, 
narrow  strip  of  rock  is  seen  stretching  from  its  base.  Upon  the 
extremity  of  this  strip  is  the  battery  of  San  Joao,  directly  fac 
ing  that  of  Santa  Cruz  ;  hence  crews  and  vessels  attempting  to 
come  in  without  leave  are  maimed  and  slain,  shattered  and 
sunk,  under  the  patronage  of  the  beloved  apostle  at  the  larboard, 
while,  under  the  emblem  of  salvation,  they  are  blown  to  pieces 
at  the  starboard.  The  boys  of  Zebedee  were  named  "  sons  of 
thunder:"  was  it  on  that  account  one  of  them  was  chosen  to 
preside  over  this  establishment  for  hurling  material  thunderbolts 
at  enemies'  heads  ? 

Soon  as  San  Joao  is  cleared,  the  water  is  seen  to  sweep  in 
and  beyond  the  Sugar-loaf.  With  map  in  hand,  this  is  at  once 
recognized  as  Boto-Fogo  Bay,  and  the  white  houses  skirting  the 
beach  the  village  of  Boto-Fogo.  The  upper  horn  of  the  cres 
cent  is  marked  by  a  bluff,  precipitous  hill,  whence  the  shore 
slightly  curves  onward  to  another  eminence,  on  which  a  hand 
some  white  church  conspicuous  stands.  It  and  the  hill  arc 
dedicated  to  "Our  Lady  of  Glory,"  and  a  glorious  site  for  a 
dwelling  they  have  given  her.  Between  the  hills  is  the  Cattete, 
a  suburb  connecting  Boto-Fogo  with  the  city. 

From  the  church  the  beach  shoots  forward  a  mile  in  a  more 
irregular  curve,  ending  in  a  point  that  juts  far  into  the  bay.  In 
this  stretch  part  of  the  city  is  seen — a  swarm  of  houses,  crowd 
ing  and  turning  through  a  narrow  passage  between  two  hills 
like  troops  rushing  through  a  defile  and  treading  on  each  other's 
heels.  With  the  aid  of  a  glass  a  double  tier  of  arches — the 
aqueduct — is  seen.  On  the  point  the  arsenal  is  located,  facing 
San  Domingo.  Immediately  above  the  point,  and  behind  the 
two  hills,  one  of  which  is  Castle  Hill,  with  flag-staffs  and  marine 
telegraph  on  it,  the  old  part  of  the  city  of  Bio  and  the  shipping 
lie.  Beyond  the  city  the  bay  widens  into  several  leagues  in 
breadth.  The  immediate  background  of  Rio,  and  up  the  bay 
as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  consists .  of  mountains.  Nothing 
but  sky  and  peaks  are  seen.  An  opening  occurs  in  looking 
over  the  small  bay  of  Boto-Fogo,  but  there  peaks  behind  peaks 
rise  in  the  distance. 

Such  are  the  outlines  of  the  Bay  of  Eio  between  the  city  and 
the  sea.  Kvery  prominent  landmark  is  so  easily  recognized, 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  59 

that,  with  this  rapid  glance,  I  am  prepared  to  thread  my  first 
steps  on  Brazilian  ground  without  a  guide,  and  only  wait  the 
opportunity. 

Four  o'clock  has  come  and  brought  no  relief;  on  the  contrary, 
it  has  induced  something  not  very  creditable  to  the  captain  and 
me.  Instead  of  enduring  the  detention  with  smooth  faces,  we 
are  making  excessively  wry  ones — in  place  of  reasoning  with 
Seneca,  or  gathering  consolation  from  Kempis,  we  are  invoking 
blessings  on  the  visiting  officers'  heads  not  altogether  canonical. 
But  the  sun  is  oppressive ;  he  is  already  broiling  pitch  out  of 
the  deck-seams,  and  to  him  should  be  attributed  a  portion  of  the 
heat  distilling  in  our  bosoms.  Another  hour  elapsed,  and  the 
officer,  a  very  polite  gentleman,  came.  Requiring  every  loose 
parcel  and  package,  even  to  a  hat-Case,  to  be  entered  on  the 
manifest,  he  took  the  ship's  papers,  and  gave  us  leave  to  go 
ashore.  In  three  minutes  the  captain  and  I  were  in  the  jolly- 
boat,  and,  as  I  did  not  wish  to  go  up  to  the  city,  he  landed  me, 
at  my  request,  at  the  foot  of  the  Gloria  Hill.  Pushing  the  boat 
in,  I  succeeded  in  springing  on  the  beach  without  a  ducking 
from  the  surf,  and,  stepping  up  briskly  into  the  street,  passed 
along  in  the  direction  of  Boto-Fogo  as  if  no  stranger. 

The  houses  are  low,  faced  with  colored  stucco,  and  roofed 
with  the  old  red  tile ;  not  a  paneled  front-door,  stoop,  knocker, 
or  bell-pull,  and  many  windows'  without  glass.  Coming  to  a 
small  garden-plot  attached  to  a  showy  corner  house,  I  stopped 
a  moment  to  look  at  white,  re,d,  blue,  yellow,  green,  and  gilded 
screens  and  trellis-work,  vying  in  colors  with  the  flowers  ;  while 
the  walks,  bordered  with  shells,  were  crowded  with  something 
like  a  hundred  painted  statues  and  statuettes. 

Being  Sunday  evening,  and  very  hot,  I  met  few  people,  but 
observed,  through  the  open  windows  and  in  some  gateways, 
families  playing  at  cards  and  chess.  After  winding  along  for 
half  a  mile,  with  mountains  often  in  the  immediate  rear  of  the 
houses,  I  inquired  of  a  young  man  for  Rua  do  Cattete.  I  was 
in  it.  Soon  I  came  to  a  green,  open  spot  on  the  right,  in  which 
stood  a  fountain  vase,  and  at  it  negroes  filling  vessels.  As 
sured  that  the  residence  I  wanted  was  not  far  off,  I  passed  on. 
A  young  gentleman  and  some  ladies  were  at  an  open  window, 
and,  at  a  venture,  I  asked  if  that  was  the  residence  of  Mr.  E-- 


(50  SKETCHES    OF 

"  Si,  senhor,"  was  the  reply.  A  table-bell  tinkled,  a  smart  ne 
gro  opened  the  heavy  door,  I  entered,  and  was  invited  to  a  seat 
with  the  company  I  had  just  saluted — a  very  handsome  lady, 
three  sprightly  young  ones,  and  their  brother — a  Brazilian  moth 
er  and  her  offspring. 

The  head  of  the  family,  whom  I  had  asked  for,  it  was  said, 
would  be  in  presently.  He  was  taking  a  siesta.  Before  he 
came,  I  had  time  to  observe  that  the  features  and  furniture  of 
the  room  were  indicative  of  a  tropical  clime ;  high  ceiling,  mat 
ted  floor,  chairs  and  sofas  with  cane-seats,  walls  papered,  but 
nothing  like  carpets,  rugs,  curtains,  fire-places,  and  other  essen 
tials  of  our  parlors. 

Presently,  through  an  inner  door,  a  tall  gentleman  made  his 
appearance.  Dressed  in  white  linen,  and,  withal,  gray-headed, 
he  formed  a  perfect  contrast  with  the  deep  black  in  which  I  was 
draped.  A  miller  and  a  sweep  could  not  have  set  off  each  oth 
er  more  distinctly.  Rising,  I  introduced  myself  as  just  come 
in  from  New  York,  and  the  bearer  of  letters  and  other  matters 
from  his  brother,  who  had  insisted  that  the  first  threshold  I 
crossed  in  Rio  should  be  this  one. 

"  Pray  be  seated.  And  so  T and  you  are  old  acquaint 
ances  ?" 

"Yes,  sir — bosom  friends." 

"  Orestes  and  Py lades,  eh  ?" 

"  Why,  not  exactly ;  still,  I  never  was  in  distress  but  he- 
sympathized  with  me,  and  I  may  safely  say  the  same  for  my 
self  and  family  whenever  he  or  his  tasted  of  trouble." 

"  Is  he  stout  ?" 

"  Not  so  much  so  as  you,  sir,  nor  so  tall.  Pie  is  nearer  my 
size.  I  presume  you  would  not  know  him,  since  I  understand 
you  were  separated  in  early  youth." 

"  It  is  forty  years  since  we  parted ;  but,  though  we  have  not 
seen  each  other  in  that  time,  I  think  I  should  know  him  at 
sight.  He  talks  of  paying  me  a  visit.  Can  I  be  of  service  to 
you?" 

"  I  am  desirous  of  engaging  apartments  for  a  brief  season.  It 
is  getting  dark,  too,  and,  without  your  aid,  I  shall  be  in  trouble 
to-night :  though  I  have  succeeded  in  finding  your  dwelling,  I 
have  misgivings,  in  going  from  it,  of  losing  myself." 


LIFE    IN  BRAZIL.  61 

Here  there  was  a  movement  among  the  ladies  at  the  farther 
end  of  the  room,  and  one  addressed  two  or  three  words  to  him 
in  Portuguese.  Our  eyes  again  met.  I  could  act  a  part  no 
longer,  and  we  sprang  into  each  other's  arms. 

This  was  followed  with  such  laughing  and  crying,  clapping 
and  shaking  of  hands,  such  impassioned  greetings,  that — But 
neither  the  scene  nor  the  feelings  are  for  the  public  eye. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Almanacs.  —  Livery  Stables. — Car 
riages. — Honorable  H.  A.  Wise. — 
The  Host. — Booming  of  the  Surf. 
— The  Matadoura. — Beeves. — As 
sist  at  Mass.  —  Esmola  Box.  — 
Apollonia. — A  Funeral. — Funer 
al  Customs. — Mourning. — Cost  of 
Masses  for  the  Dead. 


Febmiary  6.  The  Rio  al 
manac  is  a  necessary  hand 
book  for  strangers,  while  to 
natives  it  is  indispensable, 

to  enable  them  to  keep  the  run  of  the  saints'  days.  Not  till  to 
day  have  I  felt  well  enough  to  go  out,  though  some  things  have 
occurred  which  I  should  have  liked  to  witness.  On  the  2d  inst. 
was  a  high  festival,  in  which  the  emperor  usually  performs  a 
part,  but  he  is  absent  in  Rio  Grande,  endeavoring  to  soothe  po 
litical  troubles  there.  The  3d  inst.  was  the  anniversary  of  St. 
Braz.  Public  honors  are  paid  him  in  a  monastery  where  his 


SKETCHES   OF   LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  63 

statue  is.  Celebrated  for  removing  traclieal  complaints,  he  is 
consulted  literally  as  doctors  are. 

Livery-stables  are  here  what  their  name  imports.  The  pro 
prietors  furnish  plain  and  showy  traveling  equipages,  with  serv 
ants  in  various  styles  of  livery.  Having  some  letters  to  deliv 
er,  a  "  carro"  was  ordered,  and  in  a  few  minutes  I  was  off  in  a 
large,  well-built  and  easy  chaise.  A  mule  in  the  shafts  drew 
it  by  a  broad  belt  across  his  chest.  The  saddle  mule  was.  sim 
ply  attached  by  a  hook  to  the  carriage  axle.  The  dress  of  the 
postillion,  a  dark  mulatto,  eclipsed  the  plated  mountings  of  the 
carriage  and  harness  :  a  polished  jet  hat,  with  golden  band  and 
edging,  yellow  vest,  light-blue  jacket  faced  with  red,  and  a  red 
collar;  white  breeches,  half  lost  in  boots  extending  up  his 
thighs,  and  at  his  heels  brass  spurs  with  rowels  two  inches 
over.  He  wielded  a  monster  cow-hide,  and  laid  it  across  the 
shaft  animal's  back  with  a  ferocity  that,  had  it  been  an  edge- 
tool,  would  have  cut  the  beast  in  two. 

We  entered  Engenho  Velha,  the  name  of  a  district  exceed 
ingly  rural  and  picturesque.  The  driver  cracked  his  thong, 
whirled  through  a  gateway,  dashed  up  a  short  avenue  bordered 
with  shrubbery  and  flowers,  and  brought  up  at  the  front  of  a 
handsome  mansion.  Here,  after  an  hour's  ride,  we  were  not 
half  the  distance  we  had  passed  over  from  the  place  of  starting, 
the  circuitous  route  being  unavoidable  to  get  round  intervening 
mountains.  Ascending  the  piazza,  I  was  the  next  moment  in 
conversation  with  the  Honorable  Henry  A.  Wise,  United  States 
Minister  in  Brazil,  to  whose  kindness  and  hospitality,  on  this 
and  subsequent  occasions,  my  warmest  acknowledgments  are  due. 

Walking  out  in  the  evening  with  a  friend,  we  met  a  bare 
headed  priest  in  a  carro,  accompanied  by  three  half-naked  ne 
groes.  One,  with  a  large  candle,  went  by  each  wheel,  and  the 
third  trotted  in  advance,  ringing  a  bell.  This,  I  was  told,  was 
"the  Host, "which  the  priest  was  going  to  administer  to  some 
sick  or  dying  person.  "But  where  is  the  wafer?"  I  asked. 
"In  that  little  crimson  bag  suspended  from  the  padre's  neck." 

1th.  I  started  out  alone  this  morning  on  a  miscellaneous  ram 
ble,  and  shortly  became  puzzled  to  account  for  a  slow  succession 
of  deep  booming  sounds  that  shook  both  the  ground  and  air.  As 
no  one  in  the  streets  stopped  to  notice  what  I  took  for  subter- 


64  SKETCHES   OF 

ranean  thunder,  I  followed  the  sounds  down  to  the  Flamingo 
Beach,  and  there  the  riddle  was  solved  by  the  surf.  Wind  and 
tide  combining  had  caused  the  noise  of  its  breaking  on  the  shore 
to  be  unusually  loud  and  powerful. 

Winding  along  the  beach  to  Gloria  Hill,  I  tripped  down  its 
farther  side  (where  I  landed  from  the  ship's  boat),  and,  continu 
ing  toward  the  city,  stumbled  upon  a  revolting  scene  :  a  large 
inclosure  full  of  cattle,  adjoining  a  barn-like  structure,  whose 
long  and  broad  roof  was  supported  by  stone  columns,  the  spaces 
filled  up  with  picket  gates  and  railings.  Four  half-naked  men, 
wielding  long  spiked  poles,  were  forcing  certain  of  the  beasts 
through  a  gate  between  two  of  the  central  columns.  These  fel 
lows  wore  red  pointed  caps,  their  legs  and  arms  were  bare  and 
bloody,  their  hallooings  and  their  cruelty  were  enough  to  make 
one  shudder.  They  thrust  the  goads  at  random  into  the  poor 
distracted  victims  ;  blood  was  oozing  from  wounds  in  the  sides 
and  necks  of  several.  One  dropped  exhausted,  nor  could  blows, 
nor  digging  the  iron  points  into  the  most  sensitive  parts,  make 
it  rise.  Some  twenty  to  thirty  had  now  been  forced  through, 
when  the  gate  was  closed — to  them  the  gate  of  death ;  for,  as  I 
suspected,  this  was  the  public  slaughter-house.  It  is  located  on 
the  edge  of  the  bay. 

As  I  had  no  wish  to  revisit  the  place,  I  concluded  to  take  a 
first  and  last  look  at  the  Matadoura.  Passing  round  to  the 
end  of  the  building  facing  the  street,  I  found  the  administrador 
at  his  desk,  with  the  whole  interior  open  before  him,  and  separ 
ated  only  by  a  low  partition  no  higher  than  a  counter.  And 
what  a  sight !  The  immense  floor  strewed  with  expiring  oxen 
in  all  imaginable  positions.  Those  that  had  just  been  driven 
in  were  leaping  hither  and  thither  over  the  bodies  of  the  slain. 
Two  tall,  athletic  negroes,  with  nothing  on  but  short  pantaloons 
of  coarse  canvas,  stained  with  gore,  held  axes  vertically,  at  arm's 
length,  over  their  heads,  and  kept  moving  slowly  about.  Six 
other  men,  with  poles  armed  with  spikes,  were  heading  the  be 
wildered  animals.  Whenever  one  remained  a  moment  steady, 
or  passed  slowly  by,  an  axe  was  buried  in  its  neck  behind  the 
horns,  and  in  an  instant  it  dropped.  Thus  they  proceeded  till 
all  had  fallen,  when  a  negro,  with  a  piece  of  rag  round  his  mid 
dle,  bled  them  by  plunging  a  knife  in  their  throats. 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  &3 

Not  less  than  sixty  were  now  lying  prostrate.  The  gates 
were  again  opened,  and  as  I  left,  the  moans  of  the  dying  and 
the  bellowings  of  the  living  were  mingling  with  the  click  of  the 
axe  as  it  sunk  into  their  vertebra? — the  identical  mode  of  Ho 
mer : 

"  As  when  some  vig'rous  youth,  with  sharp'ned  axe, 
A  pastured  bullock  strikes  behind  the  horns, 
And  hews  the  muscle  through." — //.,  xvii. 

The  naked  figures  of  the  butchers ;  their  shouts  as  they  faced 
and  frightened  the  trembling  creatures  into  positions  to  receive 
the  blow  and  submit  to  death  ;  these  roaring  from  pains  inflict 
ed  by  the  prongs,  and  their  distress  at  beholding  their  comrades 
sink  and  quiver,  were  truly  horrible.  One  evaded  the  blow, 
and  sprang  nearly  over  the  platform,  but,  ere  it  recovered  from 
the  effort,  its  head  was  half  severed  from  the  trunk.  The  axe 
men  moved  unconcernedly  about,  one  with  a  cigar  in  his  mouth, 
the  spikemen  affording  them  sufficient  protection.  The  instant 
an  ox  turns  on  them,  he  is  met  by  an  array  of  points,  which, 
without  mercy,  are  thrust  into  his  breast  and  face.  By  twelve 
o'clock  the  work  is  over  for  the  day,  and  the  flesh  borne  off  to 
the  licensed  meat-shops  in  every  part  of  the  city. 

The  cattle  were  long-horned,  of  medium  size,  various  colors, 
but  mostly  red,  and  looked  somewhat  lean.  I  subsequently  as 
certained  from  the  administrador  that  the  number  slaughtered 
last  year  was  45,000,  including  the  supply  for  the  foreign  ship 
ping.  There  is  a  municipal  impost  of  320  reis,  or  16  cents,  per 
head.  Pigs  are  slaughtered  up  the  Bay.  A  few  sheep  are  killed 
and  dressed  in  town. 

8th.  I  was  pressed  to  attend  mass  at  a  chapel  close  by,  where 
the  old  vicar,  an  intimate  friend  and  daily  visitor  of  the  fam 
ily,  officiated.  He  went  through  the  Latin  services  in  a  low, 
monotonous  tone.  In  some  parts  one  could  only  infer  that  he 
was  reading  by  the  movement  of  his  lips.  His  manner  was  im 
pressive,  save  the  crossings,  bowings,  courtesy  ings,  and  kiss- 
ings,  which  were  puerile  enough  in  my  eyes,  and  any  thing  but 
gracefully  done,  nor  can  they  be,  by  a  man  in  a  gown,  with  his 
back  to  spectators.  The  ceremonies  Avere  over  before  fatigue 
or  listlessness  wished  them  at  an  end.  Over  the  altar  stands 
Nossa  Senhora  da  Gloria,  to  whom  the  place  is  dedicated.  Twen- 

E 


SKETCHES   OF 


ty  inches  high,  dressed  in  silks  and  frills,  with 
necklace  and  ear-rings,  the  mopsey  lady  presides 
with  tranquil  dignity  at  her  shrine.  The  congre 
gation  consisted  of  less  than  twenty  persons,  half 
of  whom  were  blacks.  On  returning,  I  was  com 
plimented  for  having  "honored  God  and  our 
Lady." 

Four  or  five  feet  in  front  of  the  chapel  door,  a 
post  is  fixed  in  the  pavement,  and  against  it  an 
alms-box,  bound  with  iron  and  secured  by  a  pad 
lock.  On  the  raised  back  a  cup  is  painted,  and 
under  it  heads  rolling  in  flames.  On  the  box  is 
written,  "  Esmolas  para  as  almas"-  — alms  for 
drawing  souls  out  of  Purgatory. 

9^/i.  This  is  the  anniversary  of  Apolloriia,  one 
of  those  saints  who,  after  leaving  the  earth,  con 
tinues  through  all  time  to  bless  it.  No  pains  arc 
more  excruciating  than  those  she  removes.  "  Ad- 
vogada  contra  a  tosse"  —  she  cures  toothache. 
Jaw-bones  of  wax  are  offered  to  her  here. 

An  invitation  came  for  J—  -  to  attend  the  obsequies  of  the 
Condessa  d'J—  -  at  6  P.M.  The  letter  was  bordered  with 
symbols  of  death,  and  in  the  centre  a  shrouded  urn,  under  which 
appeared  the  Lusitanian  version  of  Horace's  universal  adage : 

"  Entra  com  passo  igual  pelas  ufanas 
Casas  dos  rcis,  c  miseras  choupanas." 

On  returning  from  a  ramble  I  met  the  funeral  procession :  a 
long  string  of  chaises,  followed  by  twenty  horsemen  carrying 
lighted  candles  ;  an  elegant  coach-and-four  came  next,  guided 
by  a  charioteer  in  light  livery,  and  in  it  the  coffin,  whose  ends 
projected  through  the  doors.  Carriages  of  every  style  followed, 
some  with  outriders  and  lackeys  behind ;  last  of  all,  a  coach-and- 
four,  with  attendants  in  white  and  scarlet  costumes,  the  driver 
and  footmen  sweating  under  enormous  triangular  hats  with  red 
feathers.  Except  the  coffin  and  candles,  there  was  nothing  to 
indicate  a  funeral. 

In  conversations  during  this  and  subsequent  evenings,  par 
ticulars  relating  to  funeral  customs  were  mentioned,  and  may  as 
well  be  given  here. 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  67 

Soon  as  a  person  dies,  the  doors  and  windows  are  closed— 
the  only  occasion,  it  is  said,  when  the  front  entrance  of  a  Brazil 
ian  dwelling  is  shut.  The  undertaker  is  sent  for,  and  as  the 
cost  of  funerals  is  graduated  to  every  degree  of  display,  he  is 
told  to  prepare  one  of  so  many  milreis.  Every  thing  is  then 
left  to  him.  The  corpse  is  always  laid  out  in  the  best  room, 
is  rarely  kept  over  thirty-six  hours,  and  not  often  over  twenty- 
four — the  number  required  by  law.  If  the  deceased  was  mar 
ried,  a  festoon  of  black  cloth  and  gold  is  hung  over  the  street- 
door  ;  for  unmarried,  lilac  and  black  ;  for  children,  white,  or  blue 
and  gold. 

Coffins  for  the  married  are  invariably  black,  but  never  for 
young  persons  ;  theirs  are  red,  scarlet,  or  blue.  Priests  are  in 
humed  or  borne  to  the  tomb  in  coffins  on  which  a  large  cross  i;; 
portrayed.  Lay  people  can  not  have  the  use  of  these.  In  fact, 
few  persons,  rich  or  poor,  are  actually  buried  in  coffins ;  their 
principal  use  being  to  convey  the  corpse  to  the  cemetery ;  and 
then,  like  the  hearse,  they  are  returned  to  the  undertaker. 

Fond  of  dress  while  living,  Brazilians  are  buried  in  their  best, 
except  when  from  religious  motives  other  vestments  are  prefer 
red.  Punctilious  to  the  last  degree,  they  enforce  etiquette  o:; 
the  dead.  These  must  go  into  the  next  world  in  becoming  at 
titudes  and  attire  :  married  females  draped  in  black,  with  black 
veils,  their  arms  folded,  and  their  hands  resting  on  their  oppo 
site  elbows ;  the  unmarried,  in  white  robes,  veils,  and  chaplets 
of  white  flowers ;  their  hands  closed  as  in  adoration,  with  palm 
branches  between  them.  The  hands  of  men  and  boys  are  cross 
ed  upon  their  breast,  and,  if  not  occupied  with  other  symbols,  a 
small  cup  is  placed  in  them,  and  removed  at  the  tomb.  Official 
characters  are  shrouded  in  official  vestments,  priests  in  their 
robes,  soldiers  in  their  uniforms,  members  of  the  brotherhoods 
in  their  albs,  sisters  of  the  same  societies  in  those  appropriate 
to  them;  e.g.,  those  of  the  Carmo  in  black  gowns,  blue  cloaks, 
and  a  blue  slip  for  the  head.  The  lady  entombed  to-day  was  a 
maid  of  honor  to  the  empress.  Her  sepulchral  dress  was  the 
"livery  of  the  maids  of  honor."  "And,  pray,  what  may  that 
be  ?"  I  inquired.  "  A  white  silk  gown  embroidered  with  gold, 
a  train  of  green  silk  similarly  decorated,  a  plume  of  ostrich 
feathers,  necklace,  bracelets,  ear-rings,  etc.:"  raiment  adapted 


68  SKETCHES   OF 

to  make  impressions  on  worldly  monarchs,  but  not  to  secure 
special  greetings  from  the  King  of  Hades.  (The  countess  was 
young,  in  health,  and  playing  an  hour  before  she  died.) 

Children  under  ten  or  eleven  are  set  out  as  friars,  nuns,  saints, 
and  angels.  When  the  corpse  of  a  boy  is  dressed  as  St.  John, 
a  pen  is  placed  in  one  hand  and  a  book  in  the  other.  When 
consigned  to  the  tomb  as  St.  Jose,  a  staff  crowned  with  flowers 
takes  the  place  of  the  pen,  for  Joseph  had  a  rod  that  budded  like 
Aaron's.  If  a  child  is  named  after  St.  Francis  or  Anthony,  he 
generally  has  a  monk's  gown  and  cowl  for  his  winding-sheet. 
Of  higher  types,  Michael  the  Archangel  is  a  fashionable  one. 
The  little  body  wears  a  tunic,  short  skirts  gathered  at  the  waist 
by  a  belt,  a  golden  helmet  (made  of  gilt  pasteboard),  and  tight 
red  boots.  His  right  hand  rests  on  the  hilt  of  a  sword.  Girls 
are  made  to  represent  madonnas  and  other  popular  characters. 
When  supplementary  locks  are  required,  the  undertaker  sup 
plies  them,  as  well  as  rouge  for  the  cheeks,  and  pearl-powders 
for  the  neck  and  arms. 

Formerly  it  was  customary  to  carry  young  corpses  upright 
in  procession  through  the  streets,  when,  but  for  the  closed  eyes, 
a  stranger  could  hardly  believe  the  figure  before  him,  with  rud 
dy  cheeks,  hair  blowing  in  the  wind,  in  silk  stockings  and  shoes, 
and  his  raiment  sparkling  with  jewels,  grasping  a  palm-branch 
in  one  hand,  and  resting  the  other  quite  naturally  on  some  arti 
ficial  support,  could  be  a  dead  child.  But  how  was  the  body 
sustained  in  a  perpendicular  position?  "Generally  in  this 
way,"  said  Senhora  P ,  who  had  often  assisted  on  such  oc 
casions:  "a  wooden  cross  was  fixed  on  the  platform,  and  against 
it  the  body  was  secured  by  ribbons  at  the  ankles,  knees,  and  un 
der  the  arms,  and  at  the  neck."  Twenty-five  years  ago  this  prac 
tice  was  common.  It  is  now  confined  chiefly  to  the  interior. 

No  near  relative  accompanies  a  corpse  to  the  cemetery.  It  is 
given  at  the  door  into  the  hands  of  friends,  to  whom  its  final 
and  respectful  disposal  is  confided.  No  refreshments  of  any 
kind  are  furnished. 

On  the  death  of  a  father,  mother,  husband,  wife,  son,  or  daugh 
ter,  the  house  is  closed  seven  days,  during  which  the  survivors 
indulge  in  private  grief.  They  wear  mourning  twelve  months. 
For  brothers  and  sisters,  the  house  is  closed  four  days ;  the  pe- 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  69 

riod  of  mourning  four  months.  On  the  last  of  the  four  or  seven 
days,  mourners  attend  mass,  and  then  resume  the  business  of 
life.  For  first  cousins,  uncles,  and  aunts,  the  established  rule 
is  to  wear  mourning  two  months  ;  for  second  cousins,  one ;  for 
other  relatives,  from  fifteen  to  eight  days.  By  an  old  law,  sur 
vivors  can  be  compelled  thus  to  respect  the  dead  according  to 
degrees  of  consanguinity.  The  poor  contrive,  by  aid  of  friends, 
and  sometimes  by  selling  what  articles  of  furniture  or  clothing 
they  can  spare,  to  comply  with  the  general  custom. 

Large  sums  are  occasionally  consumed  in  dresses  and  jewels 
for  the  dead.  Generally,  the  embroidery,  tassels,  cords,  span 
gles,  tiaras,  etc.,  are  of  French  gold  or  gilt  tinsel,  but  in  some 
cases  pure  metal  and  real  gems  are  entombed.  The  cost  of  fu 
nerals  ranges  from  $50  to  $1000.  Some  go  to  the  expense  of 
putting  the  parish  church  in  mourning.  If  the  deceased  owned 
a  carriage,  it  is  generally  used  to  convey  him  to  the  tomb — to 
give  him  his  last  ride.  To  save  the  expense  of  a  hearse,  peo 
ple  in  moderate  circumstances  frequently  borrow  a  friend's  car 
riage.  Not  long  ago,  a  hearse,  all  velvet,  feathers,  and  gold,  was 
imported  from  France,  and  a  few  days  after  a  rich  man  lost  his 
wife.  He  spent  $1500  on  the  funeral,  exclusive  of  mourning 
dresses,  and,  to  give  eclat  to  the  pageant,  hired  the  new  funeral- 
car  for  $200. 

Widows  never  lay  aside  their  weeds  unless  they  marry.  Till 
recently,  they  were  never  known  to  dance,  such  an  act  being 
deemed  scandalous,  no  matter  how  long  their  husbands  had 
been  dead.  And  now,  old  people  shake  their  heads  and  repeat 
an  ancient  apophthegm :  "Widows  should  ever  mourn  their  first 
love,  and  never  take  a  second."  They  complain  of  modern  de 
generacy  and  the  disappearance  of  old  Portuguese  virtue.  But 
the  young  folks  contend  that  they  are  as  good  as  their  gran- 
dams,  and  insist  that  if  widows  seldom  remain  such  now,  it  was 
much  the  same  formerly,  as  the  proverb  more  than  intimates  : 
"Viuve  rica  cazada  fica"  Clusters  of  a  small  purple  flower 
are  here  known  as  "Widows'  Tears."  They  bloom  but  once 
a  year,  and  soon  dry  up. 

A  lady  living  near  us  recently  became  a  widow,  and,  at  the 
instigation  of  a  fresh  applicant  for  her  hand,  induced  her  only 
child,  a  lad  of  eighteen,  to  enter  a  convent,  under  the  pretense 


70  SKETCHES   OF 

that  she  had  in  his  infancy  dedicated  him  in  that  way  to  God, 
and  that  he  would  be  the  means  of  delivering  his  father's  soul 
out  of  Purgatory.  He  consented,  and  she  and  her  legal  para 
mour  now  riot  on  his  father's  wealth  and  his  own.  But  widow 
ers  are  not  much  better.  Mention  was  made  of  a  neighbor  who 
lost  his  wife,  and  cried  himself  almost  to  death  in  four  days. 
His  friends,  alarmed,  got  him  to  a  ball,  where  he  met  a  lady, 
and  married  her  in  two  months. 

When  the  corpse  of  a  husband  is  laid  out,  custom  requires 
his  surviving  partner  to  appear  before  consoling  friends  in  a 
black  woolen  gown,  train,  and  cap,  crape  veil,  a  fan  in  one 

hand,  and  a  handkerchief  in  the  other.    Old  Seiihora  P ,  who 

ought  to  know,  says  the  mouchoir  often  hides  smiles  as  well  as 
tears;  and,  further  that  some  widows  have  no  cause  to  cry, 
their  losses  being  no  losses  at  all.  Those  who  cry  loudest,  she 
remarked,  are  often  the  soonest  comforted,  and  mentioned  a  sen- 
hora  who,  on  the  fifth  day,  being  told  that  her  beauty  as  well 
as  her  health  was  suffering,  looked  up  and  naively  said,  "  If  that 
was  the  case,  she  would  stop,"  and  she  did:  a  parallel  to  the 
rich  heir  who,  bending  over  his  parent's  coffin,  exclaimed,  "Fa 
ther,  I'll  mourn  for  you  hereafter ;  I  can  not  now." 

Visits  of  condolence  are  attended  with  fashionable  formalities. 
Unless  you  call  in  deep  mourning  you  are  thought  disrespectful. 
A  full  dress  of  black  is  a  sine  qua  non  for  both  lady  and  gentle 
men  visitors,  and,  unless  very  near  neighbors,  etiquette  requires 
a  carriage  and  a  footman.  Enlightened  Brazilians  are  awake  to 
the  evils  of  these  expensive  follies,  and,  as  in  other  lands,  are 
making  efforts  to  reform  them. 

With  the  exception  of  holy  water,  priests  are  paid  for  every 
thing — for  christening  and  burying  as  well  as  marrying.  When 
a  person  is  not  interred  in  the  district  he  lived  in,  the  fee  is  ex 
acted  all  the  same.  The  Gloria  parish  has  a  very  insufficient 
cemetery,  at  the  Lapa  Church,  and  many  are  entombed  else 
where.  In  these  cases  the  vicar  attends  in  a  carriage,  imme 
diately  behind  the  corpse,  till  it  reaches  its  destination.  He 
then  bows  to  his  reverend  brother,  into  whose  charge  he  thus 
delivers  the  body,  according  to  ecclesiastical  or  civil  rule,  and 
retires,  receiving  the  legal  fee  of  twenty  milreis — the  rich  fre 
quently  giving  more.  Previous  to  the  transfer,  the  doctor's  cer- 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  71 

tificate  of  the  cause  of  death  must  be  obtained  and  countersigned 
by  the  vicar,  for  which  the  latter  receives  two  milreis — he  often 
gets  twenty. 

Whatever  they  may  be  in  life,  lay  people  are  profitable  to 
priests  when  they  cease  to  live.  Masses,  many  or  few,  are  then 
to  be  offered  for  them,  and  masses  are  always  paid  for.  The 
usual  charge  for  one  at  which  a  family  attends  soon  after  a  burial 
is  two  dollars,  the  wealthy,  of  course,  not  being  limited  to  that. 
For  subsequent  ones  a  special  agreement  is  made.  J—  -  ob 
served  that  he  and  another  gentleman  were  executors  of  an  ac 
quaintance  who  left  five  hundred  milreis  to  be  expended  in  mass 
es  for  the  repose  of  his  spirit.  They  agreed  with  a  priest,  and, 
as  usual,  at  so  much  for  each.  Now  every  mass,  to  be  effect 
ive,  must  be  performed  fasting  and  before  noon ;  and  in  the  case 
referred  to  one  only  was  to  be  celebrated  in  one  day,  and  for 
the  exclusive  benefit  of  the  soul  of  the  payer.  In  a  very  short 
time  the  priest  brought  in  his  bill,  ready  receipted,  and  asked 
for  his  money.  Objections  were  raised  on  the  ground  that  half 
the  period  had -not  elapsed  which  was  necessary  honestly  to 
perform  his  part  of  the  agreement.  He  insisted  that  all  he  had 
bargained  for  had  been  properly  done.  They  winced,  but  paid 
him. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

The  Military  Arsenal:  its  Manufactures. — Fine  old  bronze  Ordnance. — School. 
—Ceremony  of  the  Hat.— Larangeiras.— Cattete  Brook  and  Washerwomen.— 
A  Brazilian  Chacara. — Old  Portuguese  Customs. — Butterflies. — Fountains. — 
Indian  Medicine-tree.— A  Dessert  after  the  manner  of  Eden.— Uniformity  of 
tropical  Heats.— Iron  Collars  on  Slaves.— Shoes  and  Neckcloths  symbols  of 
Freedom.— The  Vicar  and  Sneezing.— The  public  Garden  an  earthly  Elysium. 

10 ^th.  Visited  the  Military  Arsenal,  and  breakfasted  with  the 
polite  commandant,  Colonel  V.  Lisboa.  His  family  was  from 
home,  and  he  performed  the  part  of  hostess.  This  is  common. 
In  merchants'  city  establishments,  not  a  female,  black  or  white, 
is  employed.  They  and  their  clerks  do  all  the  honors  of  morn 
ing,  noon,  and  evening  meals,  while  in  private  dwellings  it  is 
customary  with  gentlemen  visitors  to  relieve  ladies  of  the  tea 
pot.  Here  were  large  standing  water-jars  from  Bahia,  and  the 


72  SKETCHES   OF 


popular  "  monkey" — a  peculiar  formed  earthen  vessel  of  aborig 
inal  origin.      [See  figures  of  water-pots.] 

The  repast  wound  up,  as  all  repasts  do  here,  with  passing 
round  the  paliteiro — a  fancy  piece  of  silver  holding  tooth-picks 
of  orange-wood.  Not  a  little  ingenuity  is  displayed  in  the  de 
signs  :  e.g.,a,  peccary  or  porcupine,  from  which  the  picks  stand 
out  as  quills ;  a  disk  of  the  sun,  in  which  they  represent  his 
rays  ;  a  pine-apple,  held  by  an  Apollo  ;  a  column  of  muskets, 
on  which  they  stand  for  bayonets,  &c. 

In  the  yard  were  the  usual  piles  of  balls  and  iron  guns,  all 
of  English  make ;  also  quite  a  number  of  old  Portuguese  bronze 
pieces,  one  fluted  and  richly  ornamented,  another  twisted  spi 
rally  with  loops  of  alligators  :  it  had  been  two  hundred  and  fif 
teen  years  in  Brazil,  and  is  a  splendid  specimen  of  ancient  found 
ing.  These  had  been  baptized,  as  usual  in  old  times,  with 
scriptural  appellations.  How  much  more  appropriate  had  one 
been  christened,  "The  bringer  of  bad  news,"  after  a  Dutch 
thirty-two  pounder,  or  "  The  Devil,"  after  a  French  one. 

"We  entered  the  cooper's  shop,  where  buckets,  kegs,  and  can 
teens  were  in  process  of  development.      The  foreman  could  not 
comprehend  or  believe  in  our  pail  and  barrel  making  machinery. 
'  Nao,  senhor,"  he  exclaimed,  shaking  his  head  ;   "  nao,  senhor, 
uma  impossibilitado. " 

Leaving  the  infidel,  we  came  among  the  tinmen,  a  dozen 
blacks  and  whites,  making  canisters  for  grape-shot,  horn  lan 
terns,  and  huge  tin  crowns  and  globes — imperial  arms  to  put 
over  the  entrances  of  public  establishments.  Bugles  and  trum 
pets,  with  and  without  keys,  and  equal  in  finish  to  any,  are 
made  here.  One  room  is  dedicated  to  philosophical  instruments. 
A  theodolite  of  superior  workmanship  was  in  progress ;  also  a 
large  electrical  machine,  the  plate  from  a  window  of  the  old 
king's  state-coach.  The  foreman  was  employed  at  a  very  hand 
some  bench-vice,  with  a  sliding  jaw,  of  his  own  invention.  A 
model  was  presented  to  me.  It  is  now  in  the  collection  of  the 
Franklin  Institute,  Philadelphia.  There  was  not  in  the  car 
penters'  shops  a  common  hand-saw.  Not  one  is  said  to  be  used 
in  the  country  ;  nothing  but  the  old  classic  buck-saw.  In 
Spain  and  Portugal,  the  tools  and  processes  current  in  Greece 
and  Rome  in  the  days  of  Numa  are  preserved  unchanged.  It 


LIFE  IN   BRAZIL.  73 

is  much  the  same  here.  At  a  forge  were  bellows  such  as  Vul 
can  used:  they  will  be  found  figured  on  a  subsequent  page. 

In  the  turning-shop  were  some  excellent  French  lathes. 
Three  or  four  fine  bronze  presses  were  at  work  stamping  cap 
and  epaulette  plates  ;  one  is  one  hundred  and  twenty  years  old, 
and  ornamented  with  the  arms  of  Portugal — a  beautiful  thing. 
In  the  leather  department  is  made  every  article  for  cavalry  and 
infantry — saddles  better  and  cheaper  than  can  be  imported. 
The  barrels  and  locks  of  muskets  are  of  foreign  manufacture,  but 
all  are  stocked  and  mounted  here.  Founders  and  finishers  were 
fusing  and  filing  belt-buckles  and  sabre-handles.  The  model- 
room  is  crowded  with  devices  for  civil  and  military  engineering. 

In  the  school-room  were  two  hundred  lads,  from  six  to  thir 
teen  years  old,  whites,  blacks,  mulattoes,  and  Indians,  as  thor 
oughly  mingled  on  their  seats  as  the  ingredients  of  mottled  gran 
ite.  They  are  taught  reading,  writing,  arithmetic,  and  draw 
ing.  When  fourteen,  each  names  a  trade  he  prefers  to  follow 
— one  of  those  carried  on  in  the  arsenal ;  that  is  taught  him, 
and  at  a  certain  age  he  enters  the  artillery.  In  this  manner  a 
supply  of  carpenters,  smiths,  saddlers,  founders,  machinists,  &c., 
is  secured  for  the  public  service. 

This  military  establishment  is  admirably  organized,  and  un 
der  an  effective  administration. 

At  noon  the  workmen  went  to  dinner,  each  taking  off  his  cap 
as  he  passed  the  outer  gate — a  piece  of  ceremony  enforced  on 
every  one,  high  or  low,  stranger  or  native,  at  every  government 
building.  Hence,  at  the  shabby  entrance  to  the  Custom-house, 
merchants,  captains,  and  every  one  else  who  wears  a  hat  must 
remove  it  in  passing  in  and  out,  and  fifty  times  a  day,  if  they 
go  in  as  often.  This  Oriental  mode  of  securing  reverence  for 
rulers  appears  to  be  a  Gesler  kind  of  homage.  He  put  his  cha- 
peau  on  a  pole,  and  required  those  who  passed  to  bend  the  knee ; 
so  here,  wherever  a  tin  copy  of  the  Emperor's  head-gear  is  stuck 
up,  every  one  must  uncover  in  obeisance  to  it,  the  same  as  if  en 
tering  a  church. 

I2tk.  Walked  out  with  E to  the  Larangeiras,  Anglice 

orange-groves,  a  suburban  district  adjoining  the  Cattete,  and 
bordering  on  a  brook  that  comes  rippling  along,  scarcely  any 
where  over  five  feet  wide,  and  the  depth  in  most  places  only  a 


74  SKETCHES   OF 

few  inches.  When  told  this  was  the  Cattete  River,  I  thought 
a  humbler  appellation  a  fitter  one,  but  I  have  since  seen  how 
two  or  three  hours'  rain  converts  the  quiet  streamlet  into  a  wide, 
dashing,  tumbling,  and  overwhelming  torrent. 

All  the  way  up  for  nearly  a  mile  one  is  reminded  of  a  charac 
teristic  Spanish  and  Portuguese  custom,  of  classical  and  scriptu 
ral  antiquity  too ;  for 

"  Where,  gathering  into  depth  from  trickling  rills, 
The  lucid  fluid  a  spacious  basin  fills," 

there,  in  the  pools,  stand  bevies  of  African  nymphs,  employed 
precisely  as  were  the  daughter  of  Alcinous  and  her  maids  ere 
their  romps  and  laughter  awoke  the  shipwrecked  Ulysses.  This 
stream  is  resorted  to  daily  by  lavandeiras  from  adjacent  districts. 
Glance  at  the  one  we  are  approaching — it  will  not  do  to  stop 
and  look.  Her  sole  dress  is  a  garment  which  ought  to  be  an 
inner  and  never  an  only  one.  In  the  middle  of  the  brook,  and 
midleg  deep  in  it,  she  is  handling  a  linen  coat  by  the  collar ;  now 
plunging  it  at  her  feet,  and  now  raising  it,  she  furiously  rubs  it 
till  the  arms  fly  out  and  strike  her  as  if  the  owner  were  within. 
Another  plunge,  and  she  continues  as  if  she  had  his  ears  in  her 
hands,  and  was  resolved  to  have  them  off.  Another  dip,  and 
she  twists  him  into  a  coarse  rope,  thrashes  a  smooth  boulder 
with  him,  reversing  her  hold,  brings  his  head  and  spreading 
arms  down  on  the  stone  with  loud  flops,  and  anon  lays  him  on 
the  grass  to  dry. 

Here  we  reach  a  couple  who  have  joined  their  labors.  One  does 
the  washing:  she  is  using  handfuls  of  saponaceous  leaves  in 
place  of  soap.  The  other  is  wringing,  flopping,  and  spreading  out 
frocks,  shirts,  and  pants  to  bleach  and  dry.  Yonder  comes 
one  who  has  finished  her  task,  and  is  returning  home  with  the 
blanched  vestments  piled  up  in  that  huge  wooden  bowl  on  her 
head — a  load  little  less  than  Mrs.  Ford's  buck-basket  when  on 
its  way  to  Datchet  Mead.  A  few  rods  farther,  and  behold  a  la- 
vandeiro.  Probably  the  family  that  own  him  have  no  female 
slave,  or  his  master  may  be  a  bachelor.  See !  there  are  half  a 
dozen  negroes  in  that  pool  in  petticoats  alone,  and  those  dis 
tressingly  curtailed.  Kxcept  one,  who  has  thrown  a  towel  over 
her  shoulders,  the  whole  group  is  nude  above  the  waist.  When 
Homer's  girls  got  through  a  family  batch  of  linen,  they  washed 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  75 

their  own ;  so  these,  having  finished  their  owners'  things,  are 
giving  their  own  a  rinsing.  As  we  passed  on,  variations  in  the 
scene  occurred  that  spoiled  the  poetry  of  the  picture.  Of  nat 
ural  or  acquired  delicacy  these  Rio  washerwomen  exhibit  none. 
Their  manners,  more  than  their  garments,  want  purifying.* 

Crossing  the  brook  by  a  bridge,  we  entered  the  grounds  of 
Senhor  J.  L —  — a,  with  whom  we  had  been  invited  to  spend 
the  day.  The  house  is  a  low  stone  structure,  with  the  usual 
tegulated  roof  and  stuccoed  walls.  The  upper  story,  agreeable 
to  a  singular  style  of  building  yet  prevalent,  recedes  from  the 
lower.  The  estate  is  extensive,  and,  from  its  location,  pictur 
esque.  A  mountain  quarry  is  on  it,  and  a  stream  runs  through 
it.  We  climbed  the  hills  to  the  old  farm-house,  whence  we  had 
a  view  of  the  bay  and  the  mouth  of  the  harbor.  The  property 
has  been  in  the  family  many  generations,  and  here  we  learned 
some  of  the  patriarchal  customs  of  the  old  Portuguese  planters. 
The  mother  of  the  present  proprietor,  a  venerable  lady  of  nine 
ty,  recently  deceased,  kept  them  up  to  her  death.  Carefully  in 
structing  the  slaves,  the  first  thing  she  taught  them  was  to  ad 
dress  the  Virgin.  Every  night  the  bell  on  the  portico,  which 
awoke  them  to  work  and  called  them  from  it,  summoned  them 
to  prayers,  which,  as  surviving  head  of  the  family,  she  read. 
As  soon  as  they  were  concluded,  her  children,  grandchildren,  and 
any  other  relatives  present  saluted  her,  and  each  slave,  in  pass 
ing  out,  asked  and  received  her  blessing  for  the  night.  She 
sometimes  roused  all,  blacks  and  whites,  to  matins  at  two  in  the 
morning.  One  old  negro  troubled  her  exceedingly  :  "  Work, 
work,  work  all  day,"  ho  would  say,  "and  pray,  pray,  pray  all 
night — no  negro  stand  that ! " 

As  a  party  of  us  wandered  over  the  grounds,  besides  many 

*  "  Now  the  history  tells  us  that  the  page  was  very  discreet  and  sharp,  and,  be 
ing  very  desirous  to  please  his  lord  and  lady,  he  departed  with  a  very  good  will  for 
Sancho's  village  ;  and  being  arrived  near  it,  he  saw  women  washing  in  a  brook,  of 
whom  he  demanded  whether  one  Teresa  Pan/a,  wife  of  one  Sancho  Panza,  squire 
to  a  knight  called  Don  Quixote  de  la  Mancha,  lived  in  that  town.  A  young  wench 
who  was  washing  started  up  and  said,  '  That  Teresa  Panza  is  my  mother,  that  San 
cho  my  father,  and  that  knight  our  master.'  '  Come,  then,  damsel,'  quoth  the  page, 
'  and  bring  me  to  your  mother,  for  I  have  a  letter  and  a  present  for  her  from  that 
same  father  of  yours.'  '  That  I  will,'  answered  the  girl ;  and,  without  putting  any 
thing  on  her  head  and  feet,  for  she  was  disheveled  and  bare-legged,  she  ran  skip 
ping  before  him." 


7(3  SKETCHES    OF 

smaller,  a  few  large  blue  butterflies  tempted  us  to  chase  them. 
I  captured  one  six  inches  across  the  wings,  and  after  keeping  it 
an  hour  concluded  that,  as  I  was  no  naturalist,  the  sins  of  nat 
uralists  should  not  be  mine.  Having  no  sufficient  reason  to  de 
prive  it  of  the  pleasures  of  life,  I  let  it  go. 

We  strolled  up  the  road  to  where  it  changes  its  name  to  Cos- 
me  Velho.  Here  a  dozen  houses  had  come  sociably  together, 
as  if  tired  of  keeping,  like  their  old  neighbors,  so  far  aloof.  A 
spring  of  cool  water  gushes  from  a  neat  design  of  masonry,  built 
against  a  spur  of  Mount  Martha,  one  of  the  chief  eminences  at 
the  base  of  the  Corcovado.  It  is  named  "  Bica  da  Rainha," 
or  Queen's  Spout.  Its  refreshing  fluid  is  not  more  exhilarating 
than  the  scenery.  Half  a  mile  farther  we  came  to  a  medicinal 
spring  inclosed  in  a  very  neat  structure.  On  a  bronze  plate  let 
into  the  pediment,  is  inscribed  "  Agoa  Ferrea,  1835."  This  font 
is  the  foreground  of  a  landscape  no  painter  could  pass.  Palms, 
bananas,  orange,  and  other  trees,  with  shrubbery  and  flowers, 
are  every  where ;  snow-white  walls  and  red-tiled  roofs  glisten 
on  distant  hills,  a  romantic  brook  comes  dancing  down  the  glen, 
and  a  glorious  mountain  boundary  incloses  all ;  to  say  nothing 
of  living  figures — birds,  insects,  and,  not  least  worthy  of  notice, 
lizards  darting  from  rock  to  rock  quicker  than  the  eye  can  fol 
low  them. 

On  returning  to  the  grounds  of  Senhor  L a,  we  stopped 

at  the  decaying  roots  of  a  celebrated  tree,  recently  cut  down, 
against  his  protestations,  to  make  way  for  a  road.  At  the  dis 
covery  of  the  country  this  noble  forest  production  was  visited  by 
Indians  for  its  medicinal  bark,  and  ever  afterward  known  as  the 
"Pao  Grande,"  or  Great  Tree.  It  was  three  metres  in  diame 
ter,  and  of  a  proportionate  height.  The  Indian  name  is  Jequitiba. 

After  dinner  we  adjourned  outside,  and  partook  of  a  dessert 
after  the  manner  of  Eden.  Reclining  tinder  venerable  tamarind 
and  cinnamon  trees,  we  knocked  fruit  off  them  and  off  wide- 
spreading  mangoes.  We  ranged  among  cloves  and  pimentos, 
bananas  and  plantains,  oranges  and  lemons.  Here  red  coffee- 
berries  were  pendent  from  the  stems  of  tall  and  slender  bushes  : 
there  stands  the  caja,  a  species  of  Indian  palm,  and  near  it  the 
caju,  yielding  a  yellow  plum,  the  jaca,  with  its  gourd-like  nuts, 
the  patinga,  on  which  grows  a  scarlet  or  purple  cherry  of  a 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL. 


77 


sweetish  acid  taste ;  the  favorite  mamao,  with  its  egg-shaped 
treasures  hanging  like  cocoas  from  the  boll.  Here  are  garlic- 
trees,  so  named  from  the  odor  their  crushed  leaves  give  out; 
soap-trees,  bearing  saponaceous  berries,  and  wax  or  candle 
plants  that  secrete  cereous  substances :  the  leaves  of  the  last 
are  fan-shaped,  three  to  four  feet  over,  and  from  their  curved 
edges  radiate  bayonet  points  a  foot  in  length. 

As  the  evening  closed  in,  we  took  leave  of  our  kind  friends 
and  returned  home,  after  a  day  of  unalloyed  enjoyment. 

13M.  The  weather  is  oppressive,  and  yet  the  thermometer 
has  ranged  since  I  landed  between  80°  and  86°;  but  then, 
neither  night  nor  day  has  it  been  below  the  former  or  above 
the  latter,  except  to-day.  At  6  A.M.,  84°  ;  noon,  87°  ;  10  P.M., 
86°.  How  slight  and  sluggish  these  movements  are,  compared 
with  the  range  through  which  the  mercurial  column  sweeps  in 
our  latitudes !  Summer  heats  in  New  York  rise  often  over  90°, 
but  at  night  we  pass,  as  it  were,  into  cool  and  refreshing  baths. 
Here,  night  brings  little  relief  to  one's  parboiled  lungs  and  vis 
cera.  It  is  not,  therefore,  so  much  the  high  temperature  that 
distresses  one  as  its  unbroken  continuance. 

This  uniformity  of  tropical  heats  may  be  conducive  to  bodily 
health  and  old  age,  but  I  suppose  it  is  also  to  intellectual  quie 
tude.  There  is  an  obvious  connection  between  meteorology  and 
mind;  energetic  spirits  thrive  best  where  heat  and  cold,  calms 
and  storms  alternate.  I  feel  an  increasing  tendency  to  mental 

as  well  as  to  physical  supineness, 
and  can  readily  understand  why 
those  who  visit  the  tropics  grow  tired 
of  unvarying  verdure,  longing  for 
•  snow  and  ice,  and  the  renovating  in 
fluence  of  a  northern  spring. 

A  Portuguese  in  the  neighborhood 
has  the  reputation  of  being  unusual 
ly  cruel  to  his  slaves.  One  goes 
past  the  window  for  water  three  or 
four  times  a  day,  in  an  iron  collar, 
with  an  upright  prong  at  one  ear, 
and  a  shorter  one  under  the  other. 
There  he  is  again !  arid  behind  him 


78  SKETCHES    OF 

a  lad,  not  over  twelve,  belonging  to  the  same  owner,  wearing  a 
similar  instrument,  with  the  prong  behind. 

15M,  Sunday.  Kain  last  night  has  brought  down  the  tem 
perature  to  80°.  As  the  omnibus  from  Boto-Fogo  stopped  at 
the  door,  I  observed  three  blacks  seated  among  white  gentlemen. 
This  is  common.  A  free  negro  in  decent  attire — implied  by  the 
expression  "wearing  shoes  and  a  neckcloth" — can  take  his  seat 
in  places  of  public  resort  and  conveyance  as  freely  as  persons 
of  the  lightest  complexion.  The  Constitution  recognizes  no 
distinction  based  on  color. 

At  ten  the  vicar,  having  got  through  mass,  which  must  be 
performed  fasting,  came  in  to  breakfast.  Presenting  his  caxa, 
I  tried  a  pinch,  and  instantly  repented,  but  he  grasped  my  hand, 
and,  with  glistening  eyes,  congratulated  me  on  the  happy  omen : 
he  was  as  exhilarated  as  Penelope  when  Telemachus,  without 
snuff,  had  a  fit  of  sneezing.  Rising  from  the  table  with  a  pa- 
lito  stuck  behind  an  ear,  he  asked  for  cards.  To  oblige  him,- 
two  ladies  sat  down  to  bisca,  nor  would  he  release  them  till  the 
dinner-hour.  I  took  up  his  square  cap,  made  of  pasteboard  and 
covered  with  serge  ;  three  segment-shaped  ridges  radiated  from 
the  centre  of  the  crown  to  three  of  the  four  corners.  Suspect 
ing  a  mystic  signification,  he  was  told  of  my  surmise.  Using 
the  palito  as  he  turned  in  his  chair,  he  said  the  ridges  represent 
ed  the  persons  in  the  Trinity,  and,  with  the  tuft  in  the  centre, 
the  Trinity  in  unity. 

\Qth.  Devoted  the  day  to  the  City  Park — o  Passeio  Publico 
— an  irregular  piece  of  ground,  extending  some  three  hundred  feet 
along  the  Bay.  It  is  inclosed  by  high  walls,  on  which  are  vases 
for  flowers  at  regular  distances.  Gravel-walks  cut  up  the 
ground  into  fancy  plots,  on  which  tropical  shrubbery  and  trees 
luxuriate.  Here  is  the  entrance,  in  Eua  do  Passeio,  opening 
on  a  wide  path  that  runs  straight  through  the  middle  to  the 
Bay.  Let  us  step  in.  As  we  proceed,  the  view  at  either  hand 
becomes  more  and  more  confined  by  the  foliage.  Arriving  near 
the  end  of  the  walk,  a  triangular  pyramid  of  granite,  thirty  or 
more  feet  high,  rises  on  each  side  from  a  basin  of  water.  An 
oval  cartouch  on  one  has  the  inscription,  "  A  Saudade  do  Eio ;" 
on  the  other  is,  "Ao  Amor  do  Publico."  The  Passeio  was 
completed  and  presented  to  the  city  by  a  wealthy  merchant  on 


LIFE   IN    BRAZIL.  79 

retiring  from  it  to  end  his  days  in  Portugal.  In  the  first  in 
scription  he  gave  expression  to  his  patriotic  feelings  in  a  senti 
ment  not  easily  translated.  We  have  no  word,  nor  half  dozen 
words,  equivalent  to  "  Saudade."  It  not  only  implies  remem 
brance  and  good-will,  but  a  doting  upon  and  a  yearning  after 
an  object.  It  includes  every  thing  that  affection  can  desire  for 
the  absent,  and  hence  is  in  common  use  in  the  correspondence 
of  relatives  and  lovers. 

The  prospect  is  still  limited  within  the  walls,  and  will  be 
until  we  ascend  one  of  those  two  flights  of  marble  steps  facing 
us,  which  converge  to  a  platform  above.  The  triangular  space 
between  them  has  been  tastefully  improved.  An  artificial 
mound,  covered  with  cactus  plants  and  verdure,  is  built  against 
the  wall ;  a  basin  of  water  is  confined  in  front  by  an  antique- 
fashioned  rim  of  highly-wrought  granite.  At  the  foot  of  the 
mound,  two  bronze  crocodiles,  partly  concealed  by  shrubbery, 
turn  their  heads  to  each  other,  and,  resting  them  on  the  beach, 
throw  jets  of  water  from  their  nostrils.  Above  the  mound  rises 
a  fanciful  terminus,  on  which  are  carved  the  crown  and  arms 
of  Portugal,  and  beneath  them  a  bust  of  Diana  in  relief. 

We  ascend  the  stairs ;  the  handsome  balusters  are  iron,  the 
hand-rails  bronze.  Reaching  the  platform,  a  pretty  fountain- 
device  arrests  attention  on  the  back  of  the  wall,  on  whose  front 
we  have  below  been  contemplating  Diana  and  her  crescent.  A 
Cupid  grasps  in  his  right  hand  an  inverted  tortoise  by  its  tail, 
and  from  the  struggling  creature's  mouth  the  jet  falls  into  a 
small  granite  barrel.  In  his  left  hand  the  little  laughing  god 
holds  a  scroll,  the  motto  on  which  can  not  be  surpassed.  As 
if  anticipating  rebuke  for  torturing  the  testudo,  he  exclaims, 
" Sou  util  inda  brincanda  T — though  playing,  I  am  useful. 
"And  so  you  are,"  I  told  him,  as  I  plunged  a  tin  tumbler,  stand 
ing  near,  into  the  sparkling  fluid. 

And  now,  by  simply  turning  round,  we  are  on  a  terrace  close 
to  the  Bay,  which,  for  its  beauty  and  enchanting  prospects,  if 
any  where  equaled,  can  not  be  excelled.  Three  hundred  feet 
long,  forty-five  wide,  paved  with  white  and  colored  marble ;  in 
closed  by  low  walls,  in  which  are  continuous  seats,  except  where 
interrupted  by  short  columns  bearing  flower-vases,  and  both 
columns,  backs  and  fronts  of  seats — the  whole  interior  surfaces 


80  SKETCHES    OF 

of  the  walls — lined  with  painted  and  enameled  tiles.  Near  each 
extremity  of  the  promenade,  a  light  octagonal  structure  offers 
shelter  from  the  sun's  rays,  and  seats  for  all  who  choose  to  en 
ter.  Stairs  here  also  communicate  with  the  garden.  A  spirit 
ed  Mercury,  with  his  caduceus  elevated,  stands  at  the  head  of 
one  flight,  and  the  god  of  music,  with  his  lyre,  at  the  other.  Both 
are  in  bronze,  of  the  natural  size,  and,  with  the  rest  of  the  works 
in  metal,  were  brought  from  Portugal. 

Here  the  eye  takes  in  the  islands  of  Cobras  and  Villegagnon, 
the  lower  bay,  entrance  of  the  harbor,  and  the  open  sea  beyond, 
ships  coming  in,  others  going  out ;  at  the  right,  Boto-Fogo, 
Cattete,  and  the  Corcovado  ;  on  the  left,  the  hills  of  Nictherohy, 
down  to  the  rocks  and  Fort  of  Santa.  Cruz.  Small  gulls  whirl 
round  and  light  on  the  water  near  you,  pigeons  are  running 
along  the  beach  as  if  they  here  acquire  aquatic  tastes,  boys  are 
playing  in  the  surf,  and  canoes,  skiffs,  and  crafts  of  all  descrip 
tions  are  moving  over  the  water.  Yonder  rises  the  black,  gi 
gantic  Sugar-loaf  before  us.  Ten  minutes  since  it  was  whol 
ly  relieved  by  the  light  blue  sky  behind  it,  and  so  it  is  yet,  ex 
cept  that  small  cloud,  white  as  driven  snow,  and  the  only  one 
in  the  wide  firmament,  which  is  descending  upon  its  peak.  In 
five  minutes  the  dark  apex  emerges,  the  aerial  visitor  turns  gray, 
losing  its  density  as  it  spreads  itself  over  the  widening  mass. 
Now,  half  way  down,  it  is  but  a  thin  gauze,  and  now  it  has  van 
ished,  yielded  up  its  moisture.  In  this  way  mountains  here  are 
almost  daily  seen  to  draw  down  clouds  and  milk  them,  as  Mr. 
Wise  beautifully  remarked. 

In  the  Passeio  is  a  large  vegetable  edifice.  Vines  and  ten 
drils  form  its  walls ;  dense  foliage,  dressed  as  thatch,  its  roof. 
Within  is  a  table,  at  which  citizens  can  dine  or  lunch  on  re 
freshments  brought  with  them,  or  indulge  in  fruits  and  doces 
bought  of  negroes  at  the  gate  —  a  slab  of  granite,  ten  inches 
thick,  four  feet  wide,  and  thirty  long,  resting  on  carved  pedes 
tals,  each  weighing  a  ton.  A  seat  of  the  same  massive  material 
and  character  completes  a  piece  of  furniture  calculated  to  endure 
as  long  as  the  city  shall  exist.  Upon  it  I  am  penciling  these 
remarks. 

I  did  not  leave  this  earthly  elysium  till  sundown,  and  was 
not  a  little  surprised  that  so  few  visitors  made  their  appearance 


LIFE    IN   BRAZIL.  g} 

in  it.  Two  or  three  young  men  straggled  in  and  out  occasion 
ally,  but  not  a  family  or  a  female ;  open  to  every  body,  and 
comparatively  enjoyed  by  nobody.  True,  it  is  located  at  one 
side,  and  not  the  most  populous  one,  of  the  city ;  but  the  fact 
is,  not  till  within  a  few  years  have  ladies  begun  to  appear  in 
the  streets.  The  old  Moorish  seclusion  of  the  sex  has  but  late 
ly  been  invaded,  and  latticed  jalousies  pulled  down. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Sudden  Floods  and  their  singular  Inconveniences. — Discovery  of  Brazil. — Indians 
and  early  Navigators.  —  Rio  founded  by  French  Protestants. — Their  religious- 
Disputes. — An  Indian  Chief  knighted.  —  His  Descendants.  —  Location  of  the 

City. — Saints  of  the  Hills. — Streets  and  Pavements. — Houses. — Jalousies. 

Roofs. — Chimneys. — Spouts. — Street  Lamps. — Substitute  for  Bells  and  Door 
knockers. — Signs. — Markets. — Fountains. — No  Sewers  or  Sinks. — Rio  a  Citv 
of  Quarries. — Neighboring  Mountains. — Names  of  Streets,  etc. 

ISt /i.  Rain  fell  all  night,  and  still  continues,  sans  intermis 
sion.  The  Larangeiras  Washerwomen's  Brook  is  now  bear 
ing  all  before  it.  It  has  risen  over  a  stone  bridge  in  the  Cat- 
tete,  and  is  sweeping  roots  and  stems  of  trees  down  the  avenue. 
The  low  streets  running  off  to  Flamingo  Beach  resemble  mill- 
races.  The  occupants  of  the  vicar's  recent  dwelling  probably 
spent  the  night  as  he  spent  one  a  few  months  ago.  Torrent? 
from  mountains  in  the  rear  suddenly  flooded  it,  and  at  midnight, 
unable  to  escape,  his  only  resource  was  to  spring  from  his  couch 
and  mount  a  chest  of  drawers,  where,  like  another  patriarch,  he 
waited  the  abating  of  the  waters  ;  and  where,  seated  and  un 
dressed,  his  negro  and  the  neighbors  found  him  in  the  morning. 
Preferring  safer  quarters,  he  has  hired  an  upper  room  on  higher 
ground,  and  is  no  longer  in  danger  of  being  roused  to  meditate 
in  dishabille  and  darkness  on  the  motions  and  forces  of  fluids. 

As  there  is  no  going  out,  the  opportunity  is  favorable  for 
posting  up  a  few  notes  on  the  origin,  outline,  and  some  particu 
lars  of  the  city. 

Brazil  was  discovered  by  chance.  On  the  return  of  the  pi 
oneer  to  India  by  way  of  the  "  Cape  of  Tempests,"  the  Portu 
guese  government  sent  out  Cabral  with  a  fleet  to  take  advant 
age  of  the  discovery.  Instead  of  creeping  down  the  African 

F 


82  SKETCHES    OF 

coast,  where  calms  were  known  to  prevail,  lie  pushed  out  into 
the  open  Atlantic,  and  continued  in  a  southwest  direction  till 
startled  by  land  looming  in  the  distant  horizon.  On  the  1st  of 
May  he  went  ashore  on  the  coast  of  Espiritu  Santo — the  prov 
ince  north  of  and  adjoining  that  of  Rio.  On  the  3d  he  erected 
a  wooden  cross,  named  the  country  Santa  Cruz,  and  took  pos 
session  of  it  in  the  name  of  his  sovereign.  This  occurred  in 
1499  or  1500. 

The  coast  was  farther  explored  by  Gonzalo  Coelho  in  1501. 
Nme  years  afterward  a  Portuguese  vessel  was  wrecked  near 
Bahia,  and  Diego  Alvez  Correa  the  only  individual  saved.  On 
falling  in  with  the  natives,  his  presence  of  mind  saved  his  life. 
He  showed  them  the  effect  of  a  musket  by  discharging  it  at  a 
distant  object.  They  named  him  Caramuru,  the  man  of  fire. 

In  1515,  John  Diaz  de  Solis,  a  Spaniard,  discovered  Cape  St. 
Augustine,  a  little  south  of  Pernambuco,  though  Vespucius,  from 
his  own  account,  was  on  that  coast  fourteen  years  before.  DC 
Solis,  in  1512,  entered  the  great  river  De  la  Plata,  and,  accord 
ing  to  some  authorities,  he  was,  in  the  course  of  that  or  the  fol 
lowing  voyage,  in  the  Bay  of  Rio.  Brazilian  writers  assert  that 
the  first  Europeans  who  entered  it  were  two  Portuguese  navi 
gators  in  the  service  of  Charles  Y. 

It  is  certain  that  he  who  was  second  only  to  one  in  the  gal 
axy  of  daring  spirits  that  opened  the  true  epoch  of  geography 
and  navigation — he  who  first  passed  through  the  eastern  gate 
of  the  Pacific,  gave  a  new  ocean  to  his  compatriots,  and  taught 
them  to  girdle  the  planet — Magalhanes — called  in  here  on  his 
immortal  voyage.  He  and  his  associate,  Ruy  Faleiro,  entered 
the  harbor  on  the  13th  of  December,  1519.  They  named  it 
St.  Luzia,  that  being  her  anniversary  :  this  was  the  first  desig 
nation  conferred  on  the  place  by  Europeans.  Pigafetta  de 
scribes  native  Indians  flocking  round  the  ships  in  canoes,  bar 
tering  refreshments  ;  for  a  king  out  of  a  pack  of  playing-cards 
they  freely  give  six  fowls. 

In  1530,  John  III.  sent  out  Martin  Affonza  de  Souza  to  take 
possession  of  the  country.  He  first  touched  at  the  north,  ran 
down  the  coast,  and  passed  in  between  the  Sugar-loaf  and  op 
posite  wall  of  rocks  on  New- Year's  day,  1531,  and  christened 
the  gulf  or  bay  "Itio  de  Janeiro."  Had  it  been  explored,  it 


LIFE   IN    BRAZIL.  33 

had  not  been  taken  for  the  mouth  of  a  fresh-water  river.  The 
Indian  name  was  "  Nictherohy. "  Bahia  and  Pernambuco  were 
founded  in  1535.  Governor  de  Souza  resided  at  the  former ; 
the  first  Brazilian  land-proprietor,  he  possessed  eighty  leagues 
along  the  coast.  He  introduced  the  sugar-cane,  and  from  his 
plantation  it  became  dispersed. 

The  city  of  Eio  is  of  French  origin.  The  Portuguese  had  at 
tempted  no  settlement  in  its  neighborhood  when  Villegagnon,  in 
1555,  began,  under  the  auspices  of  Coligny,  to  found  a  Protest 
ant  colony  there.  On  the  return  of  his  vessels,  large  numbers, 
including  ministers  and  students,  embarked,  like  the  Pilgrim 
Fathers  of  the  North,  to  escape  from  religious  intolerance.  But. 
alas  for  poor  human  nature !  while  unmolested  without,  quarrels 
began  within — and  such  quarrels  will  ever  begin  and  never  end 
while  any  one  class  of  fallible  mortals  are  permitted  to  dictate  to 
others  what  they  shall  believe  or  disbelieve.  Doubts  and  dis 
putes  arose  about  the  real  presence,  diluting  the  wine,  using  salt 
and  oil  in  baptism,  etc.  These  things,  apparently  sanctioned  by 
Yillegagnon,  were  denounced  as  rank  popery,  and  the  dissen 
tients  celebrated  the  sacrament  as  rigid  Calvinists  did  in  France. 
These  squabbles,  and  the  bitterness  of  spirit  accompanying 
them,  ruined  all.  Like  people  flying  from  the  cholera,  with  its 
seeds  lurking  in  their  systems,  they  bore  the  spirit  of  persecu 
tion  with  them,  and  at  length  fell  victims  to  it.  In  1567  the 
Portuguese  took  possession,  and  expelled  them  on  the  anni 
versary  of  St.  Sebastian,  and  under  his  protection  it  has  ever 
since  been  placed.  The  name  then  given  to  it  is  still  retained 
in  official  documents — "  The  most  loyal  and  most  heroic  city  of 
St.  Sebastian." 

Two  neighboring  tribes,  the  Tumoyos  and  Tupinambas,  gave 
the  settlers  much  trouble,  but  the  musket  at  length  frightened 
away  those  it  had  hitherto  spared.  A  friendly  chief  named 
"  Ararigboia"  essentially  aided  the  colonists.  He  was  converted, 
and  made  a  "  Knight  of  the  order  of  Christ."  Lands  at  Pray  a 
Grande  were  ceded  to  him,  and  some  of  his  descendants  now 
occupy  the  village  of  St.  Laurence,  located  on  them.  The  gov 
ernment  was  recently  about  taking  a  part,  but.  was  prevented 
by  the  Indians  producing  the  original  grant.  Dwelling  within 
sight  of  the  Brazilian  capital,  the  modern  descendants  of  Ara- 


84  SKETCHES   OF 

rigboia  are  said  to  be  strongly  tainted  with  the  original  sin  of 
warm  climates — aversion  to  labor.  They  plant  barely  enougli 
for  necessaries,  and  spend  the  bulk  of  their  time  in  sleeping, 
lounging,  and  smoking. 

.Location  of  the  City. — Its  site  is  the  first  piece  of  level  ground 
met  with  on  the  left  shore  on  coming  in  from  sea — the  first  open 
spot  between  the  mountains.  Instead  of  being  built  "upon  a 
hill,"  as  a  modern  work  informs  us,  Rio  may  more  properly  be 
said  to  be  located  in  ravines.  The  face  of  the  country  is  a  suc 
cession  of  hills  and  mountains,  and  an  irregular  patch,  hardly 
exceeding  half  a  mile  wide,  opening  upon  the  bay,  is  the  princi- 
cipal  site.  Streets  wind  in  among  the  hills  on  either  hand.  The 
pavement  generally  is  but  little  above  the  bay.  Water  is  every 
where  met  with  in  digging  a  few  feet ;  hence  there  is  not  sucli  a 
thing  as  a  cellar. 

All  the  chief  eminences  wrere  early  dedicated  to  the  Church, 
and  still  are  occupied  and  chiefly  owned  by  her  functionaries. 
If  angels  lived  with  men,  they  could  not  have  finer  sites  for 
dwellings  than  have  the  monks  and  nuns  at  Rio.  On  the  north 
side  the  Benedictine  convent  crowns  San  Bento's  hill,  and  is 
one  of  the  most  valuable  properties  of  the  city.  Behind  it,  the 
Bishop's  palace  rises  on  "Mount  Conception."  Opposite  San 
Bento,  to  the  south,  ascends  "  St.  Sebastian,"  now  Castle  Hill. 
On  one  spur  of  this  mountain  the  ancient  Jesuits  dwelt ;  on  the 
other,  the  first  church  was  built,  and  is  at  present  in  possession 
of  Capuchins.  Close  by  tower  the  hill  of  St.  Anthony  and  his 
monastery.  A  little  to  the  south,  upon  a  higher  one,  the  nuns 
of  St.  Teresa  are  cloistered  ;  and  southwest,  where  the  land 
shoots  into  the  bay,  soar  the  hill  and  the  church  of  our  Lady 
of  Glory.  Then,  on  Mounts  Livramento,  Diego,  N.  S.  da  Saude, 
and  Madre  de  Deos,  are  chapels  named  after  each.  Mediators 
between  the  inhabitants  of  heaven  and  earth,  the  reverend  oc 
cupants  are  thus,  like  ancient  seers,  located  between  both.  The 
prosperity  of  the  city  is  still  believed  to  depend  no  little  on  the 
prayers  and  mortifications  of  these  saints  of  the  hills. 

Streets  and  Pavements. — The  streets  are  generally  straight, 
yet  Rua  Dereita  is  crooked.  As  an  apostle  boarded  in  a  thor 
oughfare  thus  designated,  most  Catholic  towns  have,  in  com 
mon  with  Damascus,  "a  street  which  is  called  straight,"  no  mat- 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  85 

ter  how  devious  its  direction.  Laid  out  for  the  most  part  at 
right  angles,  some  are  found  running  from  every  point  of  the 
compass — a  circumstance  due  to  mountains  insulated  by  them, 
and  to  the  angular  and  indented  shores  of  the  bay.  They  are 
narrow :  Custom-house  Street  is  just  eighteen  feet  wide  from 
wall  to  wall — the  general  width  in  all  the  old  parts  of  the  city. 
If  a  few  are  found  to  exceed  it,  others  are  mere  alleys.  The  an 
cient  mode  of  grading  is  general ;  that  is,  the  pavement  inclines 
from  the  houses  at  each  side  to  the  middle  of  the  road.  But 
workmen  are  engaged  modernizing  this  feature.  No  curb-stones 
are  used  ;  they  could  not  be,  as  carriages,  in  passing  one  anoth 
er,  sweep  close  to  the  fronts  of  the  houses :  for  the  same  rea 
son,  no  steps  or  other  projections  are  permitted. 

Rozaria  is  a  genuine  old  Moorish  street,  twelve  feet  between 
the  fronts  of  opposite  houses.  The  carriage-way  is  just  six  feet. 
The  gutter,  as  usual,  is  in  the  middle,  and  full  two  feet  below 
the  side-flagging,  so  that  on  either  side  the  surface  has  a  fall  of 
two  feet  in  three.  How  distressing  for  mules  to  drag  carriages 
through  such  avenues !  But  if  so,  what  shall  be  said  of  the 
sacrifices  of  human  sweat  and  sinews  incessantly  offered  on 
them  as  on  so  many  altars — of  slaves  yoked  to  massive  trucks, 
whose  wheels,  creaking  under  more  weighty  loads,  cause  adja 
cent  walls  and  floors  to  quiver — of  slaves  gasping  in  their  slow 
and  tortuous  progress,  and  straining  their  life-strings  to  rend 
ing?  The  whole  business  part  of  Rio  is  singularly  well  adapt 
ed  for  railways,  and  if  the  people  determine  to  continue  blacks 
as  beasts  of  draught,  it  would  be  to  their  interest  to  have  them. 
A  rail  might  be  laid  along  every  street  at  a  very  moderate  ex 
pense  ;  even  wooden  rails  alone  would  quickly  pay  for  them 
selves  in  the  prolonged  vigor  of  slaves  now  daily  broken  down 
and  ruptured.  The  subject  is  worthy  of  the  reputed  humanity 
of  the  emperor. 

Houses. — These  are  mostly  two  stories,  some  three,  and  many 
one,  all  grotesquely  mixed  as  in  most  old  cities ;  not  a  block  is 
uniformly  built.  There  is  not  what  our  builders  would  call  a 
handsome  front,  nor  any  thing  approaching  to  one;  nor  can 
there  be,  since  all  entrances  are  on  the  pavement  level,  and  no 
steps  nor  porticoes  allowed.  There  is  not  a  brick  nor  a  wooden 
house  in  Bio.  The  walls,  universally,  are  of  rough  stone  (like 


86  SKETCHES   OF 

our  foundation  walls),  coated  with  a  stucco  of  lime  and  loam, 
which  makes  them  appear  as  if  whitewashed.  Posts  and  lin 
tels  of  coarse  mottled  granite  border  every  door  and  window. 
Some  owners  show  their  taste  by  coloring  the  stucco  in  panels 
or  otherwise;  light  blue  and  pink  are  favorite  tints.  Gilt 
scrolls  and  rosettes,  running  below  the  cornice,  are  to  be  met 
with.  Though  the  houses  are  not  showy,  they  are  far  more 
substantial  than  ours.  Fonseca,  the  great  slave-trader,  one  of 
whose  vessels  got  in  a  few  days  ago  with  a  full  cargo,  by 
which  he  is  said  to  have  cleared  nearly  two  hundred  thousand 
dollars,  has  a  splendid  dwelling  nearly  finished  in  Rua  Quitan- 
da.  The  front  is  paneled,  and  colored  light  blue,  pink,  and 
white.  The  spouts  which  shoot  the  water  from  the  roof  are 
gilt  and  burnished.  The  house  is  next  door  to  his  dry-good 
store,  in  which  he  commenced  life. 

Balconies  at  the  upper  windows  are  common.  Formerly 
they  extended  across  the  front  of  each  house,  and  were  inclosed 
with  lattice-work.  Within  these  "gelosias"  the  females  of  a 
family  were  confined,  as  if  in  Turkey,  or  in  ancient  Greece, 
where  females  were  not  permitted  to  go  out  except  under  par 
ticular  circumstances,  nor  to  show  themselves  at  windows.  A 
few  balconies  remain,  with  their  fronts  removed.  Every  lower 
door  and  window  was  latticed,  and  a  majority  are  so  still.  No 
stores  have  glass  windows,  the  light  being  admitted  between 
granite  posts,  which  form  open  doorways.  Probably  not  more 
than  a  dozen  fancy  stores  can  be  found  with  glass  windows. 
There  are  a  few  in  Ouvidor  (the  Broadway  of  Rio),  but  in  some 
of  them  the  glass  frames  are  removed  at  night,  like  the  goods 
behind  them.  Of  course,  such  a  thing  as  a  store  bow-window 
is  unknown ;  the  wheels  of  carriages  would  whirl  through  it. 

The  tiled  roofs  are  more  or  less  concave,  the  result  of  large 
cornices  projecting  out  of  the  line  of  the  general  pitch.  This 
feature  gives  an  Oriental  cast  to  the  buildings,  and  the  more  so 
when  birds  or  other  figures  terminate  the  overhanging  angles. 
The  ribbed  appearance  of  the  tiles,  their  waving  edges  at  the 
eaves,  and  the  contrast  of  their  color  with  that  of  the  walls,  have 
a  pleasing  effect  on  strangers  to  this  style  of  architecture. 

Chimneys. — Take  a  view  of  New  York  from  the  top  of  a 
church,  and  chimneys  appear  as  thick  as  forest  trees.  Do  the 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  37 

same  in  Rio,  and  you  see  none,  or  very  few.  Perhaps,  by  close 
inspection,  a  small  one  may  be  detected  low  down  in  some  open 
area,  and  here  and  there  a  stove-pipe  with  a  cowl. 

Another  trait  likens  the  buildings  still  more  to  those  of  Greece 
and  Rome.  Rain  collected  on  the  roofs,  instead  of  being  brought 
down,  as  with  us,  to  the  pavement,  shoots  out  of  spouts  at  the 
eaves.  This  is  the  universal  practice.  The  spouts  are  copper 
tubes,  three  or  four  feet  long,  in  fanciful  forms — a  fish  is  very 
frequent — the  fluid  escaping  from  its  open  mouth.  The  gaping 
head  of  a  tiger  or  of  a  bird  also  occurs.  These  pour  the  water 
on  the  middle  of  the  street.  Smaller  pipes  project  from  the  bot 
tom  of  balconies  (which  are  almost  as  numerous  as  windows), 
and  discharge  it  on  the  side-walks.  How  actively  a  foot-pas 
senger  in  wet  weather  is  kept  dodging  to  and  fro  to  avoid  these 
torrents,  at  either  hand  of  a  narrow  street,  can  readily  be  con 
ceived. 

Street  lamps  are  suspended  over  the  pavement  from  iron 
brackets  secured  to  the  sides  of  the  houses.  They  are  trimmed 
by  lowering  them ;  hence  lamp-lighters  here  are  armed  with  a 
rope  instead  of  a  ladder. 

Street  doors  have  no  bells  nor  knockers.  A  gentleman  raps- 
at  a  door  with  his  cane,  or  draws  the  end  smartly  across  the 
ilats  that  commonly  fill  the  upper  panel.  When  a  family  re 
sides  on  the  upper  floors,  a  visitor,  on  entering  the  passage  be 
low,  communicates  notice  of  his  presence  by  clapping  his  hands, 
which  soon  brings  some  one  to  the  stair-landing  above. 

Street  signs  are  not  numerous,  nor  is  any  thing  like  taste  dis 
played  on  the  best  of  them.     Often  they  announce  combinations 
unusual  with  us :  Dry  Goods  and  Lottery-tickets ;  Printing  and 
Oigars  ;   Crockery  and  Tea.     Over  one  door  was  printed, 
Entrada  franca, 
Gosto  pago, 
Saida  livre. 

The  sense  in  English  requires  more  words.     It  amounts  to,  En 
ter  and  welcome,  select  what  you  please,  pay  and  depart  free. 

The  Fish-market  is  a  very  convenient  structure.  At  each 
of  its  four  sides  is  a  wide  gateway,  and  in  the  centre  a  fountain 
plays.  One  side  only  is  taken  up  with  fish-stalls,  the  rest  be 
ing  occupied  by  dealers  in  other  edibles  and  kitchen  conven- 


S8  SKETCHES   OF 

iences.  Here  are  piles  of  fruit ;  fowls,  turkeys,  and  roasting- 
pigs  in  cages ;  monkeys  and  wild  birds ;  little  shops  of  native 
earthen  arid  wooden  wares.  Of  the  fish  I  have  recognized  none 
except  mammoth  shrimps  and  young  sharks,  both  always  found 
on  the  stalls.  The  side  next  the  Bay,  not  over  a  hundred  feet 
from  it,  presents  an  exciting  scene.  While  crowds  of  boatmen 
and  handsomely-formed  canoes  are  waiting  to  be  hired,  there  is 
coming  in,  every  now  and  then,  a  falua  with  fish,  when  stout 
negroes,  all  but  naked,  with  baskets  on  their  heads,  plunge 
through  the  surf  (here  black  and  thick  with  mud)  to  meet  her, 
rivaling  and  rushing  past  each  other  to  get  a  portion  of  her  car 
go  first  on  shore ;  their  shouts,  screams,  and  quarreling  equal 
ing  any  thing  on  the  Niger. 

There  are  no  Wells  in  Rio,  though  shallow  pits,  reaching  to 
the  surface-water,  which  is  used  for  scrubbing,  etc.,  are  com 
mon.  Except  in  very  severe  droughts,  the  city  is  well  supplied 
with  water.  Here,  close  by  the  market,  is  the  Chafariz*  of 
Palace  Square.  It  is  a  rather  small,  but  an  elaborately-wrought 
structure  of  cut  stone,  four  square,  surmounted  by  a  pyramid, 
and  capped  with  the  Brazilian  crown.  The  water  is  discharged 
at  the  pinnacle  of  a  little  stone  mount,  down  which  it  streams 
into  a  shell-formed  basin,  whence  it  issues  through  five  spouts 
at  each  of  three  of  its  sides  ;  hence  fifteen  vessels  can  be  filling 
at  the  same  time.  This  spreading  out  the  fluid  and  exposing 
it  to  the  rays  of  *a  vertical  sun  necessarily  heats  it  to  a  disa 
greeable  degree,  but  old  people  say  it  is  not  good  to  drink  wa 
ter  that  is  not  agitated.  "  Beaten  water"  is  better  when  warm 
than  cold  water  not  "  beaten."  On  the  side  facing  the  bay  is  a 
tablet,  stating  that  the  fountain  was  erected  for  the  benefit  of 
the  "People  of  Sebastianopolis"  in  1789.  But  the  subject  of 
fountains  is  too  copious  a  one  to  be  treated  of  in  this  volume. 

Here  are  no  sewers  nor  sinks — no  privies — no,  not  even  where 
spacious  yards  and  gardens  are  annexed  to  dwellings.  The  use 
of  close-stools  is  universal  even  in  the  rural  suburbs !  Borne 
on  the  heads  of  slaves,  they  are  emptied  into  certain  parts  of  the 
Bay  every  night,  so  that  walking  in  the  streets  after  10  P.M.  is 
often  neither  safe  nor  pleasant.  In  this  matter,  Rio  is  what 
Lisbon  is,  and  what  Edinburgh  used  to  be. 

*  A  Moorish  word  signifying  fountain — in  universal  use  in  Brazil. 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  89 

Rio  is  a  city  of  quarries.  It  is  built  of,  paved,  and  inclosed 
with  granite.  Its  hills,  shores,  and  mountains  are  all  granitic ; 
no  other  rock  is  to  be  seen.  It  could  supply  the  world  with 
this  material,  and  yet  thousands  upon  thousands  of  cargoes  of 
stone  have  been  imported.  All  the  old  side-walk  slabs,  the 
channel  for  the  Carioco  Aqueduct,  materials  for  churches,  and 
scores  of  houses,  were  brought  from  Europe.  Formerly,  a  very 
coarse  and  dull  mottled  granite  seems  only  to  have  been  worked. 
The  city  is  built  of  it.  It  is  incapable  of  a  smooth  surface.  I 
have  picked  laminae  of  mica  three  fourths  of  an  inch  over,  and 
half-inch  crystals  of  feldspar  from  it.  A  much  better  kind  is 
now  in  vogue.  It  has  a  fine  and  uniform  grain,  and  is  nearly 
white. 

It  is  curious  to  observe  the  extremes  of  condition  in  which 
adjacent  granitic  masses  are.  If  all  belong  to  one  epoch  and 
rose  together,  by  what  means  are  some  preserved  indurate  and 
compact,  while  adjoining  ones  are  crumbling,  and  others  softened 
to  the  centre,  and  changed  into  a  red  tenacious  loam — the  color 
of  the  soil  not  only  about  Rio,  but  to  the  Andes  and  the  Equa 
tor  ?  The  tint  is  bright  and  deep  as  that  of  our  salmon  brick. 
Castle  Hill  is,  among  others,  thus  decomposed. 

A  map  of  the  country  round  Rio  would,  if  the  mountain 
bases  were  all  laid  down,  be  marked  like  a  leopard's  skin — the 
spots  equally  numerous,  and  diverse  in  dimension  and  outline. 
Such,  it  is  said,  is  the  surface  of  a  large  part  of  Brazil,  as  if  the 
whole  continent  had  once  been  fluid,  and  in  an  instant  stiffened 
during  ebullition. 

Of  the  high  mountain  crests,  that  of  the  Corcovado  is  nearest 
the  city.  In  a  straight  line,  it  is  four  miles  from  the  Custom 
house.  The  Tejuco  and  Gavia  are  each  two  hundred  feet  high 
er  ;  the  former  is  nine  miles  from  the  city,  and  the  latter  some 
what  more,  but  to  reach  any  one  of  them  considerable  more 
ground  must  be  passed  over. 

From  the  religious  education  of  the  discoverers  and  early  oc 
cupiers  of  the  great  southern  peninsula,  its  provinces,  mount 
ains,  rivers,  lakes,  cities,  towns,  parishes,  avenues,  squares,  al 
leys,  and,  in  fact,  almost  every  thing  and  every  person,  were 
christened  out  of  the  calendar.  Most  of  the  streets  of  Rio  arc 
thus  consecrated,  as  well  as  its  eight  parishes  and  forty-eight 


90  SKETCHES    OF 

(large  and  small)  churches.  The  meaning  of  other  names  at 
tached  to  a  few  districts  is  not  very  well  settled.  Flamingo 
Beach  is  supposed  to  have  been  frequented  at  the  discovery  by 
birds  of  that  name.  Cattete  is  understood  to  be  the  Indian 
word  for  the  peccary  or  paca.  Engenho  Velho  from  the  loca 
tion  of  the  first  sugar-mill.  Boto-Fogo  from  vampyre  bats. 
The  common  bat  is  seen  here  every  fair  night,  but  neither  cat 
tle  nor  men  are  tormented  with  the  monsters  so  numerous  in 
the  northern  provinces. 

Of  Public  grounds,  the  Passeio  has  been  described.  The. 
"Campo,"  the  most  spacious  area,  will  be  noticed  in  another 
chapter. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Sedans. — Removing  Furniture  to  new  Dwellings. — Street  "  Cries." — Peddlers. — 
Large  Lizard. — Penny  Portraits  of  Saints. — The  Intrudo  and  its  Sports. — Of 
Hindoo  Origin.  —  Death  and  Burial  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Institute.  —  The 
Church,  Coffin,  Corpse,  Cemetery,  and  Orations. 

HAD  custom  not  prevented  ladies  from  promenading  the 
streets,  they  could  not  indulge  the  exercise  with  any  degree  of 
comfort.  The  thoroughfares  of  few  cities  are  less  adapted  for 
it  than  those  of  Rio.  Their  contracted  width,  the  danger  from 
wheels  of  trucks  and  carriages,  imperfect  side-walks,  and  some 
times  none,  to  say  nothing  of  the  indecencies  of  blacks,  and 
the  offensive  condition  of  places  bordering  on  thoroughfares — 
the  Gloria  Beach,  for  example,  and,  worse  still,  that  facing  the 
palace  and  palace  square — are  enough  to  keep  the  sex  in-doors. 
In  suburban  avenues  ladies  can  air  themselves,  but  not  in  the 
city.  They  have  less  inducements  than  with  us  to  appear 
abroad.  To  the  attractions  of  shopping  they  are  strangers.  If 
an  article  is  wanted  which  the  street-peddlers  have  not,  a  note 
is  sent  by  a  slave  to  a  store,  and  samples  are  returned  by  him 
to  choose  from. 

When  a  lady  has  occasion  to  visit  the  business  part  of  the 
city,  a  carriage  or  a  cadeirinha  is  called.  The  latter  is  a  sedan. 
All  are  built  on  the  same  plan,  and  differ  only  in  ornament. 
Cadeira  is  the  Portuguese  word  for  chair,  and  cadeirinha  is 


LIFE  IN   BRAZIL 


91 


BRAZILIAN   SEDAN 


literally  "little  chair."  They  are  derived  from  the  sella  ges- 
tatoria  of  Rome,  probably  fac-similes,  and  are  infinitely  more 
elegant  and  commodious  than  the  old  English  box  or  Opera 
hand-barrow  chair. 

I  entered  one  to  examine  its  construction.     The  annexed  cut 

shows  the  skeleton.  On 
an  elliptical  board  thirty 
inches  by  twenty,  a  high- 
backed  chair  is  fixed,  the 
rails  of  which  extend  up  to 
a  hoop  of  the  form  and  di 
mensions  of  the  base.  The 
curved  pole  is  connected  to 
the  base  by  small  iron  rods 
as  represented. 

The  two  bearers  of  a  cadeirinha  never  go  in  a  line ;  the  one 
at  the  rear  is  always  more  or  less  to  the  right  or  left  of  his  lead 
er.  This  is  easier  for  themselves  and  the  person  they  carry. 
They  do  not  stop  to  rest,  but  shift  the  load  occasionally  from 
one  shoulder  to  the  other  as  they  proceed  —  not  by  actually 
changing  their  position  with  regard  to  it,  but  transferring  the 
pressure,  by  a  stout  walking-stick  thrown  over  the  unoccupied 
shoulder,  and  passed  under  the  pole.  I  met  one  with  a  dome 
of  polished  leather  and  a  gilt  dove  on  it,  the  curtains  highly  em 
broidered  ;  the  ends  of  the  poles  were  gilt  lions'  heads. 


It  was 


92  SKETCHES    OF 

a  private  one.  The  slaves  that  bore  it  were  in  a  flaming  livery. 
The  lady's  colored  maids  walked  behind,  as  in  the  preceding 
sketch. 

Sometimes  a  cadeirinha  is  sent  out  without  its  owner.  I 
saw  one  of  a  blue  color,  all  but  covered  with  gold  embroidery ; 
a  broad  engrailed  band  of  Cordovan  went  round  the  top ;  two 
elegant  horns  or  finials  arose  in  front  and  rear,  and  on  the  con 
vex  roof  a  silver  or  silver-gilt  eagle  stood.  The  curtains  were 
drawn  aside,  exposing  the  chair  within,  and  upon  it  an  enor 
mous  bouquet,  a  present  from  the  owner  of  the  sedan,  its  value 
augmented  by  this  complimentary  mode  of  transmitting  it. 

Another  time  I  met  one  with  a  light  green  dome  crowned 
with  a  silver  dove.  The  curtains  were  crimson,  the  mourning 
color  for  children :  the  corpse  of  a  child  was  being  taken  in  it 
to  the  cemetery. 

20t/i.  Almost  pushed  into  the  Bay,  the  street  along  the  Gloria 
Beach  is  the  only  passage  from  the  city  to  Boto-Fogo.  On  en 
tering  it,  I  turned  aside  to  an  alms-box  fastened  to  the  corner 
of  a  mean  venda,  close  to  where  I  first  sprang  on  shore.  It  was 
apparently  for  the  relief  of  infant  souls.  Fat  Dutch  cherubs 
had  been  painted  on  it,  but  time  had  well-nigh  extinguished  the 
flames  and  bleached  them  into  snow-drifts.  While  looking  on, 
a  yell  and  hurlement  burst  forth  that  made  me  start  as  if  the 
shrieks  were  actually  from  Tartarus.  From  dark  spirits  they 
really  came.  A  troop  of  over  twenty  negroes,  each  bearing  on 
3iis  head  one  or  more  articles  of  household  furniture — chairs, 
tables,  bedsteads,  bedding,  pots,  pans,  candlesticks,  water-jars, 
and  crockery — every  thing,  in  fact,  belonging  to  a  family  mov 
ing  to  a  new  domicile.  Chanting  only  at  intervals,  they  passed 
the  lower  part  of  the  Cattete  in  silence,  and  then  struck  up  the 
Angola  warble  that  surprised  me.  There  they  go,  jog-trotting 
on  !  The  foremost,  with  pants  ending  at  the  knees,  a  red  wool 
en  strip  round  his  waist,  upon  his  head  a  mop,  whose  colored 
thrums  play  half  way  down  his  naked  back,  and  in  his  hand  a 
gourd-rattle,  fringed  with  carpet-rags,  beats  time  and  leads  the 
way. 

The  "cries"  of  London  are  bagatelles  to  those  of  the  Brazil 
ian  capital.  Slaves  of  both  sexes  cry  wares  through  every 
street.  Vegetables,  flowers,  fruits,  edible  roots,  fowls,  eggs,  and 


LIFE    IN   BRAZIL. 


every  rural  product ;  cakes,  pies,  rusks,  doces,  confectionery, 
u  heavenly  bacon,"  etc.,  pass  your  windows  continually.  Your 
cook  wants  a  skillet,  and,  hark  !  the  signal  of  a  pedestrian  cop 
per-smith  is  heard  ;  his  bell  is  a  stew-pan,  and  the  clapper  a 
hammer.  A  water-pot  is  shattered ;  in  half  an  hour  a  moringue- 
merchant  approaches.  You  wish  to  replenish  your  table-furni 
ture  with  fresh  sets  of  knives,  new-fashioned  tumblers,  decan 
ters,  and  plates,  and,  peradventure,  a  cruet,  with  a  few  articles 
of  silver.  Well,  you  need  not  want  them  long.  If  cases  of 
cutlery,  of  glass  ware,  china,  and  silver  have  not  already  passed 
the  door,  they  will  appear  anon.  So  of  every  article  of  female 
apparel,  from  a  silk  dress  or  shawl  to  a  handkerchief  and  a  pa 
per  of  pins.  Shoes,  bonnets  ready  trimmed,  fancy  jewelry, 
toy-books  for  children,  novels  for  young  folks,  and  works  of  de 
votion  for  the  devout;  "Art  of  Dancing"  for  the  awkward; 
"  School  of  Good  Dress"  for  the  young ;  "  Manual  of  Polite 
ness"  for  boors  ;  "  Young  Ladies'  Oracle  ;"  "  Language  of 
Flowers  ;  "  Holy  Eeliquaries  ;"  "  Miracles  of  Saints,"  and  "  A 
Sermon  in  Honor  of  Bacchus" — these  things,  and  a  thousand 
others,  are  hawked  about  daily. 

Vegetables  are  borne  in  open,  fowls  in  covered  baskets  ;  pies, 
confectionery,  and  kindred  matters  are  carried  on  the  head  in 
large  tin  chests,  on  which  the 
owner's  name  and  address   are 


painted ;  dry-goods,  jewelry,  and  fancy  wares  are  exposed  upon 
portable  counters  or  tables,  with  glass  cases  fixed  on  them. 
These  are  very  numerous. 


94 


SKETCHES   OF 


Proprietors  accompany  silver-ware,  silks,  and  also  bread,  for 
blacks  are  not  allowed  to  touch  the  latter.  When  a  customer 
calls,  the  slave  brings  his  load,  puts  it  down,  and  stands  by 
till  the  owner  delivers  the  articles  wanted.  The  signal  of  dry- 
goods  venders  is  made  by  the  yard-stick,  which  is  jointed  like 

a  two-foot  rule.  Hold 
ing  it  near  the  joint, 
they  keep  up  a  continu 
al  snapping  by  bringing 
one  leg  against  the  oth 
er.  The  Brazilian  yard 
is  the  vara,  equal  to  43  J 
inches  English.  The 
covado,  an  old  Portu 
guese  measure,  is  also 
in  use,  equal  to  28^  of 
our  inches ;  hence  the 
vara  of  the  streets  is 
divided  unequally,  the 
long  leg  being  a  cova- 
do.  These  are  the  only 
measures  used  by  shop 
keepers  in  Brazil.  Fine 
goods,  such  as  silks,  lawns,  crapes,  and  the  like,  are  sold  by  the 
covado,  and  others  by  the  vara. 

Young  Minas  and  Mozambiques  are  the  most  numerous,  and 
are  reputed  to  be  the  smartest  of  marchandes.  Many  a  one 
lias  an  infant  added  to  her  load :  she  secures  it  at  her  back  by  a 

wide  piece  of  check  wound  round  her 
waist.  Between  the  cloth  and  her 
body  it  nestles  and  sleeps  ;  and  when 
awake,  inquisitively  peeps  abroad, 
like  an  unfledged  swallow  peering 
over  the  edge  of  its  nest.  To  pro 
tect  her  babe  from  the  sun,  she  sus 
pends  a  yard  of  calico  at  the  rear  end 
of  the  case  on  her  head :  this  serves 
as  a  screen,  and,  from  its  motions,  acts 
somewhat  as  a  fan.  Dealers  often 


LIFE  IN   BRAZIL.  95 

solace  themselves  with  lighter  companions — paper  cigars  — 
which,  when  called  on  to  display  their  wares,  are  disposed  of  in 
a  curious  place.  One  of  these  gentlemen,  with  a  strangely  mis 
cellaneous  stock,  was  called  into  the  passage  to-day.  He  had 
combs,  soaps,  needles,  perfumes,  inks,  quills,  thread,  blacking, 
books,  paper,  pencils,  matches,  English  china  tea-sets,  cards  of 
iine  cutlery,  and  I  know  not  what  else,  so  crammed  was  his 
glass  counter.  Before  coming  in,  he  stuck  his  cigar  behind  one 
ear,  and  on  his  stooping  down,  I  perceived  a  tooth-pick  project 
ing  from  the  other. 

The  way  customers  call  street-venders  is  worth  noticing  and 
imitating.  You  step  to  the  door,  or  open  a  window,  and  give 
utterance  to  a  short  sound  resembling  shir — something  between 
a  hiss  and  the  ex  Jamation  used  to  chase  away  fowls  ;  and  it  is 
singular  to  what  a  distance  it  is  heard.  If  the  person  is  in  sight, 
his  attention  is  at  once  arrested :  he  turns  and  comes  direct  to 
you,  now  guided  by  a  signal  addressed  to  his  eyes — closing  the 
iingers  of  the  right  hand  two  or  three  times,  with  the  palm  down 
ward,  as  if  grasping  something — a  sign  in  universal  use,  and 
signifying  "  Come."  There  is  here  no  bawling  after  people  in 
the  streets  ;  for  in  this  quiet  and  ingenious  way  all  classes  com 
municate  with  passing  friends  or  others  with  whom  they  wish 
to  speak.  The  custom  dates,  I  believe,  from  classical  times. 

Here  comes  the  tallest  and  blackest  man-milliner  I  have  yet 
seen  ;  his  dress,  the  usual  brown  shirt  and  trowsers,  ending  at 
the  knees  and  elbows.  His  case  contains  Leghorn  and  fancy 
silk  bonnets — nothing  else.  These  he  cries,  and  at  every  few* 
steps  turns  to  this  side  and  that  in  quest  of  fair  customers. 

Yesterday  a  young  negro  came  along  with  a  couple  of  Seguise. 
or  miniature  monkeys.  He  stopped  and  held  up  the  wicker 
cage,  not  over  six  inches  square.  "  Tres  milreis?"  I  said. 
"Nao,  senhor,  seis  milreis,"  putting  forth  his  spread  dexter 
hand,  from  which,  sure  enough,  six  fingers  grew.  This  was  the 
only  itinerant  Macaco  merchant  I  met  in  the  streets ;  there  are 
several  in  the  market. 

On  nearing  home,  I  met  a  negro  coming  in  from  the  coun 
try  with  a  walking-stick  much  taller  than  himself,  and  to  it 
lashed  a  lagarto — a  species  of  lizard  considered  a  table  delicacy, 
and  much  preferable  to  any  flying  game.  I  bought  it,  intending 


96  SKETCHES    OF 

to  bring  it  to  the  States,  Ibut  it  was  lost  in  the  voyage  home. 
It  was  two  feet  and  a  half  long,  and  six  inches  across  the  thick 
est  part.  A  slap  of  its  tail  across  the  breast  of  the  slave  who 
helped  to  secure  it  in  a  box  took  away  his  breath. 

A  crier  of  confectionery  was  called  in  a  few  mornings  ago. 
Among  doces  and  fancy  wares  was  a  lot  of  saints — coarse  wood 
cuts  in  penny  frames,  three  inches  by  five.  Taking  up  Domin 
ic,  I  asked  the  price.  The  sable  merchant  shook  his  head.  "It 
had  been  blessed ;  it  could  not  be  sold  ;  only  exchanged ;  it 
cost  two  patacas."  It  is  in  this  way  the  value  is  put  on  hoi}' 
things.  You  are  told  they  cost  so  much,  and  will  be  exchanged 
for  an  equal  sum.  I  could  not  purchase  the  founder  of  the  Do 
minicans  for  32  cents,  but  at  that  rate  I  could  have  him  and  a 
dozen  more  saints,  if  I  would  view  the  transaction  as  a  recipro 
cal  convenience  between  the  vender  and  myself,  and  without  the 
taint  of  worldly  merchandising  in  it.  Then,  as  no  profit  must 
be  made  by  the  pious  traffic,  venders  necessarily  accompany  the 
offer  of  every  article  with  a  flam — telling  you,  with  a  serious 
ness  and  devotion  which  for  the  moment  the  article  calls  up. 
they  paid  the  amount  you  are  expected  to  give  for  it. 

THE   INTRUDO. 

21^.  For  a  week  past  I  have  noticed  colored  balls  exposed 
here  and  there  on  plates  for  sale.  The  green  ones  might  be 
taken  for  small  apples,  the  yellow  for  oranges  and  lemons. 
Some  are  formed  like  pears,  others  like  melons.  An  acquaint 
ance  made  with  some  this  morning  has  banished  the  indifference 
with  which  I  have  passed  by  them.  Another  article  has  also 
been  pressed  upon  my  attention.  It  is  native  starch,  not  gran 
ulated  like  ours,  but  an  exceedingly  white  and  fine  powder,  put 
up  in  paper  cylinders  six  inches  long,  and  half  an  inch  in  diam 
eter.  When  used,  one  end  is  opened,  and  the  contents  shaken 
out. 

While  sitting  at  breakfast,  S —  -  passed  behind  J -?s 

chair,  and,  to  my  amazement,  emptied  a  couple  on  his  head  and 
shoulders.  The  operation  was  performed  so  quietly,  and  the 
dust  fell  so  lightly,  that  he  knew  not  what  was  going  on  till  a 
handful  was  applied  to  his  face  and  ears.  He  sputtered,  sprang 
up,  and,  half-blinded,  was  saluted  with  liquid  shots  from  a  long- 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  97 

necked  cologne-bottle.     Half  in  anger,  and  amid  much  laugh 
ter,  he  made  a  quick  retreat,  dressed,  and  went  to  the  city. 

While  wondering  what  this  could  mean,  a  particle  or  two 
dropped  from  my  forehead.  Raising  a  hand,  I  found  my  own 
hair  had  also  been  powdered — a  discovery  that  elicited  a  general 
screech.  I  rose  to  decamp,  but  this  had  been  foreseen,  and  the 
only  door  through  which  escape  was  possible  was  locked.  Now 
beset  by  a  host  of  female  foes,  I  dodged  and  ran  till  well-nigh 
exhausted,  in  trying  to  evade  incessant  volleys  of  starch  and 
water.  At  length  I  protested  if  the  unrighteous  war  was  con 
tinued  I  must  and  would  come  to  close  quarters,  and,  vi  et 
armis,  capture  and  play  their  own  ordnance  upon  them.  This 
was  received  with  fresh  peals  of  merriment  and  fresh  broadsides ; 
but,  at  last,  an  armistice,  to  endure  through  the  day,  was  agreed 
on.  I  now  was  told  that  the  Intrudo  begins  to-morrow,  when 
all  classes,  in-doors  and  out,  dust  and  sprinkle  one  another ; 
and  that  it  is  usual  to  do  a  little,  by  way  of  preface,  the  day  be 
fore. 

I  retired  to  change  my  dress,  but  had  not  taken  five  paces  ere 
I  was  overtaken  by  a  storm  of  colored  balls,  charged  with  some 
liquid,  similar  to  those  I  had  noticed  in  the  city.  Surprised  at 
this  open  breach  of  faith,  and  at  the  red  and  blue  fragments  with 
which  I  was  bespattered,  I  lost  no  time  in  reaching  my  room 
and  securing  the  door.  I  took  from  the  shelf  an  old  Portuguese 
dictionary  for  information.  It  derives  Entrudo,  or  Intrudo* 
from  the  Latin  Introitus — "Entrance,  or  Beginning;"  and  de 
scribes  the  festival  as  one  in  which  people,  like  Bacchants, 
romp,  feast,  dance,  and  frolic  in-doors,  and  play  all  manner  of 
tricks  out,  wetting  and  powdering  one  another.  Of  the  origin 
of  the  feast — of  which  I  had  been  treated  to  a  foretaste — I  could 
learn  nothing.  Neither  the  vicar  nor  any  one  else  appealed  to 
could  impart  the  smallest  glimmer  of  its  history.  That  it  dates 
back  to  remote  times  is  admitted. 

It  may  be  a  question  whether  the  Intrudo  and  the  Carnival 
of  Italy  are  the  same.  Though  associated  with  the  great  Quad 
ragesimal  fast,  there  are  striking  points  of  seeming  difference. 
The  former,  in  its  etymology,  has  no  reference  to  abstinence 
from  butcher's  meat,  of  which  the  latter  is  the  literal  expression. 
Carni,  "  flesh ;"  vale,  "  farewell."  Carnival  time  extends  from 

G 


98  SKETCHES   OF 

the  first  of  January  to  the  beginning  of  Lent ;  whereas  the  In- 
trudo  occurs  in  the  latter  part  of  February,  and  lasts  but  three 
days,  invariably  beginning  on  the  Sunday  previous  to  Ash- 
Wednesday.  Moreover,  throwing  dust  and  water  is  its  special 
characteristic,  the  most  conspicuous  of  its  rites. 

Intrudo-balls — for  so  the  colored  shot  are  named — instead 
of  fruit,  which  they  resemble,  are  mere  shells  of  wax  filled  with 
water.  They  are  sufficiently  tenacious  to  retain  the  liquid,  to 
bear  gentle  handling,  and  to  be  thrown  to  a  considerable  dis 
tance.  Like  more  fatal  bombs,  they  explode  when  they  strike ; 
the  wax  is  shivered,  and  most  of  it  sticks  where  it  hits.  I  re 
ceived  a  present  of  specimens  of  a  superior  kind,  formed  like 
bottles  or  decanters,  and  decorated  with  paint  and  gilding.  The 
necks  were  closed  in  imitation  of  corks  sealed  over.  When 
used,  they  are  charged  with  cologne  or  other  scented  waters. 

22d.  This  is  Intrudo-day.  On  rising,  my  friend  R— 
found  the  lower  extremities  of  his  pants  sewed  up.  It  is  not 
unusual  to  lodge  half  a  dozen  balls  in  each  leg ;  but  as  he  is 
rather  unwell,  these  singular  marks  of  affection  and  foot-baths 
were  spared  him.  In  the  act  of  shaking  hands,  I  had  one  or 
two  balls  crushed  in  mine.  At  breakfast  one  had  his  coffee 
without  sugar,  another  found  it  sweetened  with  salt,  a  third  be 
gan  to  pick  threads  out  of  his  mouth,  which  caused  fresh  explo 
sions  of  laughter ;  of  two  plates  of  toast,  fine  thread  had  been 
drawn  through  and  through  every  piece,  so  that  the  teeth  be 
came  unavoidably  entangled  in  the  meshes.  Some  foreign  mer 
chants  came  up,  on  their  way  to  the  Botanic  Garden.  T— 
invited  them  in.  The  simpletons !  Their  riding-costumes 
were  soon  like  bathing-dresses.  One  got  out  without  his  hat, 
and  actually  rode  off  bareheaded !  He  returned  in  the  after 
noon  with  a  slave  bearing  a  large  basket  of  the  cereal  missiles, 
and,  quietly  entering  the  rear,  repaid  his  foes  with  interest. 

The  vicar  came,  and  was  saluted  with  cologne ;  they  spared 
his  sutain  the  infliction  of  the  starch.  He  mentioned  instances 
where  he  had  been  half  drowned  after  receiving  the  most  solemn 
pledges  that  he  would  not  be  molested.  That  I  can  fully  be 
lieve  ;  and,  turning  to  some  ladies,  asked  how  they  could,  and 

on  a  Sunday  too,  tell  such .      "Oh!"  they  replied,  "In- 

trudo  lies  are  no  sin."     There  is  no  believing  any  one  while  it 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  99 

lasts.  The  padre  wisely  took  his  departure ;  he  did  not  dare 
to  stay  for  dinner,  lest  his  rooms  should  be  robbed  by  friends 

sending,  in  his  name,  for  every  valuable  in  them.     Dona  F , 

by  a  ruse  of  this  kind,  obtained  a  dozen  bottles  of  porter  from 

J 's  carpenter,  who  had  charge  of  them.      He  himself  tricked 

the  vicar  last  year  ;  and,  by  the  aid  of  a  slave,  deprived  a  friend 
of  a  turkey  and  fowls,  upon  which  the  owner  and  his  family 
dined  as  guests,  without  dreaming  of  having  contributed  to  the 
feast.  It  used  to  be  a  custom  to  set  before  guests  joints  of 
wood,  pies  of  sand,  custards  and  puddings  of  kindred  inedibles, 
dishes  out  of  which  leaped  frogs,  etc.  ;  but  the  Intrudo,  like 
other  festivals,  is  not  kept  up  as  formerly. 

Senhor  F rose  to  depart,  but  was  induced  to  drop  again 

into  his  seat,  on  which  a  neighbor  had  slipped  a  quantity  of 
flour,  and  water  balls.  He  sprang  up  as  these  nest-eggs 
crushed  beneath  him,  while  the  mischief-loving  projectors  were 
in  convulsions.  Nor  was  the  tumult  one  whit  lessened  by  his 
manner  of  relieving  the  parts  affected.  Finding  it  impossible 
now  to  remain,  he  good-humoredly  waved  an  adieu  with  one 
hand,  and  with  the  other  placed  his  hat  upon  his  head — and 
snatched  it  off  again.  It  had  been  lined  with  the  current  in 
gredients  of  the  day.  Two  extremities  of  his  person  were 
now  in  the  condition  of  Quixote's  head  when  he  suddenly  call 
ed  for  his  helmet  at  an  inconvenient  moment  for  Sancho  to  de 
liver  it. 

Eetiring  to  my  room,  I  found  a  strange  lady  writing  at  the 
table.  I  paused  and  addressed  her.  No  answer  or  motion.  I 
advanced.  The  intruder  was  a  bolster,  furnished  with  sleeves, 
skirts,  bonnet,  shawl, 'etc.,  very  artistically  got  up.  Opening 
the  drawers,  I  found  the  sleeves  and  neck  of  every  shirt  sewed 
up,  and  other  garments  hermetically  sealed,  so  as  to  require 
both  time  and  patience  to  get  into  them. 

Both  sexes  are  expert  in  calming  a  person  after  an  attack, 
and  throwing  him  off  his  guard.  Ladies  will  show  their  open 
palms,  rub  them  down  their  sides,  to  prove  that  they  have  no 
concealed  missiles ;  sit  down  by  you,  express  fatigue,  and  say 
that  a  little  frolic  is  well  enough,  but  this  excess  is  foolish,  and 
very  vulgar;  look  innocent  as  Madonnas,  and  conclude  with 
"No  more  Intrudo."  Your  suspicions  are  lulled;  but,  ten  to 


100  SKETCHES   OF 

one,  that  same  moment  a  couple  of  waxen  wash-balls  are  ap 
plied  to  your  face  in  the  manner  of  soap  and  water,  and  a  paper 
of  cassava  starch  emptied  on  you.  Your  fair  enemy  springs 
from  you  with  a  shriek,  and  your  surprise  now  takes  another 
turn.  She  draws  from  her  person  ball  after  ball,  and  paper  aft 
er  paper,  till  you  are  ready  to  conclude  she  is  made  of  them,  or 
has  some  machine  about  her  for  producing  them. 

Employing  parties  on  fool's  errands  is  practiced.  An  unsus 
picious  person  is  sent  on  what  he  imagines  a  confidential  mat 
ter  of  great  moment  to  his  friend  —  to  borrow  money,  on  an 
emergency,  perhaps.  The  substance  of  the  letter  he  carries  is, 

"  Send  the  fool  to  Senhor  B ,  and  ask  him  to  forward  him 

with  a  like  request  to  others  !" 

An  example  has  been  given  of  a  family  being  feasted  on  their 
own  victuals.  A  reverend  sweet-tooth  revenged  himself  for  a 
similar  trick  played  on  him  by  indulging  largely  at  a  neigh 
bor's  table.  His  hilarity  became  more  enhanced  when  a  splen 
did  cake  was  brought  in  and  placed  before  him.  With  spark 
ling  eyes  he  cut  deep  into  it,  and  when  three  fourths  had  dis 
appeared,  some  hint  was  dropped  which  caused  him  to  rise,  stand 
aghast,  and  pray  for  patience !  The  cake  —  a  highly-valued 
present  from  a  female  friend — had  been  filched  from  his  own 
larder ! 

I  walked  out  toward  the  Passeio,  and  saw  few  individuals 
molested.  One  gentleman  in  a  new  suit  received  two  or  three 
balls,  and  was  quite  indignant :  he  addressed  some  remarks  to 
me,  and  pointed  to  the  window  whence  the  shots  came.  It  is 
useless  to  get  vexed ;  those  who  do  are  sure  to  have  their  an 
ger  cooled  by  a  fresh  shower. 

Youths,  here  and  there,  were  playing  with  syringes.  For 
some  time  past  I  had  noticed  huge  tin  implements  hanging  by 
the  door-posts  of  "  Funileiros,"  and  occasionally  met  an  indi 
vidual  carrying  one  home.  Wondering  for  what  they  were 
made,  I  stopped  one  day  to  examine  them.  All  I  could  make 
out  from  the  laughing  tinman  was,  "Two  milreis" — the  price  of 
one.  They  were  quart  and  half-gallon  Intrudo-squirts.  Young 
black  rascals,  who  charge  them  in  gutters,  seldom  molest  any 
except  their  own  color;  but  white  boys  use  no  ceremony  in 
washing  the  Ethiops.  B —  -  told  me  of  acquaintances  who 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL. 


101 


have  concealed  garden-engines  to  salute  their  friends  with.     He 
lias  one  himself,  but  it  is  out  of  order. 

The  subjoined  illustration,  by  a  llio  artist,  is  a  fair  represent 


ation  of  playing  the  Intrude  in  the  street.     I  saw  one  negro  laden 
with  water  from  the  Carioco  Font  attacked  in  precisely  the 


102  SKETCHES   OF 

same  way.  Pie  stumbled,  and  fell  headlong,  fortunately  with 
out  being  injured. 

On  retiring  for  the  night,  I  could  not  find  the  way  into  bed. 
The  sheets  and  coverlet  had  been  formed  into  a  sack  whose  con 
tracted  mouth  was  under  the  bolster.  Relighting  the  candle,  I 
unraveled  the  sewing,  and  finally  laid  down  to  rest,  heartily  tired 
of  the  Intrude,  and  little  thinking  what  cause  I  had  to  be  thank 
ful  that  half  a  bushel  of  balls  had  not  been  deposited  at  the  foot 
of  the  sack. 

Puerilities  of  the  Intrudo  would  hardly  be  worth  noticing  did 
they  not  illustrate  ancient  manners.  Like  other  sports,  they 
have  outlived  institutions  they  were  designed  to  celebrate ;  and 
very  naturally  too,  for  all  people  love  gayety  and  mirth,  and 
none  ever  willingly  gave  up  stated  periods  for  enjoying  them. 

The  remarkable  coincidences  in  language,  customs,  and  other 
matters  that  go  to  establish  an  intimacy,  if  not  identity,  between 
the  ancestors  of  the  people  of  Western  Europe  and  those  of 
Central  Asia,  have  been  often  observed.  I  am  not  aware  that 
the  Intrudo  has  been  thus  elucidated.  There  seems,  however, 
little  room  to  doubt  of  its  being  the  Hohlee  of  Ilindostan — a  fes 
tival  dating  from  mythic  epochs,  and,  consequently,  involved  in 
dense  obscurity. 

Some  writers  have  supposed  the  Hohlee  refers  to  the  victo 
rious  return  of  a  famous  hero  from  battle.  Others  think  it  was 
founded  on  the  orgies  of  Krislmu,  a  god  more  licentious  than 
the  Grecian  Jupiter.  Others,  again,  imagine  it  had  reference 
to  the  close  of  the  old  year  and  the  approach  of  spring,  when 
nature  scatters  over  the  earth  her  blossoms.  The  epithet  of 
purple,  was  given  to  the  spring  by  ancient  poets,  and  the  same 
season  is  supposed  to  be  typified  by  the  red  powder  which  the 
Hindoos,  in  celebrating  the  Hohlee,  sportively  throw  at  each 
other. 

A  graphic  account  of  the  part  he  took  in  celebrating  this  fes 
tival  at  the  court  of  a  Hindostanee  prince  is  thus  given  by  Mr. 
Broughton : 

"Playing  the  Hohlee  consists  in  throwing  about  a  quantity  of 
flour  made  from  a  water-nut  called  stingara,  and  dyed  with  red 
sanders :  it  is  called  abeer,  and  the  principal  sport  is  to  cast  it 
into  the  eyes,  mouth,  and  nose  of  the  players,  and  to  splash 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  103 

them  all  over  with  water  tinged  of  an  orange  color.  The  a,>eer 
is  often  mixed  with  powdered  talc  to  make  it  glitter,  and  then, 
if  it  gets  into  the  eyes,  it  causes  a  good  deal  of  pain.  It  is 
sometimes  inclosed  in  little  globes  made  of  some  gelatinous  fluid, 
about  the  size  of  an  egg,  with  which  a  good  aim  can  be  taken 
at  those  you  wish  to  attack ;  but  they  require  to  be  dexterous 
ly  handled,  as  they  yield  to  the  slightest  touch 

"  A  few  minutes  after  we  had  taken  our  seats,  large  brazen 
trays  iilled  with  abeer,  and  the  little  balls  already  described, 
were  brought  in  and  placed  before  the  company,  together  with 
yellow-colored  water,  and  a  large  silver  squirt  for  each  individ 
ual.  The  Muha  Raj  himself  began  the  amusements  by  sprink 
ling  a  little  red  or  yellow  water  upon  us  from  goolabdans — small 
silver  vessels  for  sprinkling  rose-water  at  visits  of  ceremony. 
Every  one  then  began  to  throw  about  the  abeer  and  squirt  at 
his  neighbors.  It  is  contrary  to  etiquette  for  any  body  to  throw 
at  the  Raj  ;  he  had,  however,  been  told  that  we  had  declared 
our  resolution  to  pelt  every  one  who  pelted  us,  and  good-humor- 
edly  replied,  '  With  all  his  heart,  he  was  ready  for  us,  and  would 
try  which  could  pelt  best.'  We  soon  found,  however,  that  we 
had  not  the  slightest  chance  with  him  ;  for,  besides  a  cloth 
which  his  attendants  held  before  his  face,  he  had  in  a  few  min 
utes  a  large  pipe  of  a  fire-engine  put  in  his  hands,  filled  with 
yellow  water,  and  worked  by  half  a  dozen  men.  With  this 
he  played  about  him  with  such  effect  that  in  a  short  time 
there  was  not  a  man  in  the  tent  who  had  a  dry  thread  on  his 
back. 

"  Sometimes  he  directed  it  against  those  who  sat  near  him 
with  such  force  that  it  was  not  an  easy  matter  for  a  person  to 
keep  his  seat.  All  opposition  to  this  formidable  engine  was  fu 
tile.  Whole  shovelfuls  of  abeer  were  cast  about,  and  instantly  fol 
lowed  by  a  shower  of  yellow  water,  and  thus  we  were  alternately 
powdered  and  drenched,  till  the  floor  on  which  we  sat  was  cov 
ered  some  inches  in  depth  with  a  kind  of  pink  and  orange-col 
ored  mud.  Such  a  scene  I  never  witnessed  in  my  life.* 

"Figure  to  yourself  successive  groups  of  dancing-girls,  bedeck 
ed  with  gold  and  silver  lace,  their  tawdry  trappings  stained  with 

*  See  also  WARD'S  "View  of  the  Hindoos"  for  this  use  of  the  syringe  and  throw 
ing  of  red  powder. 


104  SKETCHES   OF 

patches  of  abeer,  and  dripping,  like  so  many  Naiads,  with  or 
ange-colored  water — now  chanting  the  Hohlee  songs  with  all  the 
airs  of  practiced  libertinism,  and  now  shrinking,  with  aifected 
screams,  beneath  a  fresh  shower  from  the  Raj's  engine — the  dis 
cord  of  drums,  trumpets,  fiddles,  and  cymbals,  sounding  as  if 
only  to  drown  the  other  noises  that  rose  around  them — the  tri 
umph  of  those  who  successfully  threw  the  abeer,  and  the  clam 
ors  of  others  who  suffered  from  their  attacks — the  loud  shouts 
of  laughter  and  applause  which  burst  on  all  sides  from  the  joy 
ous  crowd — figure  to  yourself,  if  you  can.  such  an  assemblage 
of  extraordinary  objects,  then  paint  them  all  in  two  glowing 
tints  of  pink  and  yellow,  and  you  will  have  some  conception  of 
a  scene  which  absolutely  beggars  description." 

In  other  respects  the  Intrude  and  Hohlee  agree.  The  latter, 
we  are  told,  "  takes  place  nearly  at  the  same  season  as  our  Ash- 
Wednesday,  and  it  also  precedes  the  Lent  or  Hindoo  season  of 
expiation" — a  coincidence  of  time  and  purpose  as  remarkable 
as  that  of  both  festivals  being  celebrated  by  dust  and  water — 
by  missive  balls  and  syringes.  The  Holilee  is  kept  up  by  all 
classes  throughout  India — an  occasion  of  universal  merrimenc. 
Among  the  staple  divertisements  is  also  that  which  character 
izes  the  1st  of  April  with  us. 

In  several  respects  the  Asiatic  festival  resembles  the  ancient 
Saturnalia  and  the  modern  Carnival,  the  utmost  license  being 
accorded  to  all  ranks.  It  has  been  compared  to  the  Hilaria^ 
celebrated  in  Rome  at  the  vernal  equinox  in  honor  of  the  Moth 
er  of  the  Gods,  her  statue  being  carried  in  procession,  accom 
panied  with  crowds  in  masquerade,  every  person  assuming  by 
his  dress  and  manners  whatever  character  he  pleased. 

In  fact,  nearly  all  our  old  Church  festivals  are  allied  to  sim 
ilar  institutions  of  India,  Egypt,  Greece,  and  Rome. 

To  conclude  this  curious  subject:  within  late  years  India- 
rubber  has  been  applied  to  a  multitude  of  useful  purposes.  It 
has  contributed  many  valuable  additions  to  medical  and  philo 
sophical  apparatus.  Bottles  of  it  form  a  new  and  unique  spe 
cies  of  exhausting  and  compressing  instruments.  Neat  aids  to 
breast  and  cupping-glasses,  and  substitutes  for  syringes.  The 
last  device  is  due  to  the  aborigines  of  Northern  Brazil.  In 
Para,  the  country  of  caoutchouc,  gum-elastic  squirts  have  for 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  105 

ages  been  common,  and,  during  the  Intrudo,  may  be  seen  in 
the  hands  of  Indians,  whites,  and  negroes. 

Curious  enough  too,  a  yellow  earth  or  ochre  is  thrown  aLout, 
as  well  as  cassava  starch. 

BURIALS. CEMETERIES. 

In  Rio,  as  every  where  else,  lite  is  a  medley.  Tragedy  and 
comedy,  death  and  diversions,  farces  and  funerals,  are  mixed 
up  together.  No  matter  how  popular  the  amusements,  inno 
cent  the  sports,  or  universal  the  joys,  the  Great  Intruder  can 
neither  be  softened  nor  cajoled,  and  to  him  monasteries  are  as 
attractive  as  masquerades. 

In  the  midst  of  the  Intrudo-revels,  the  Friar  Barboza,  Secre 
tary  of  the  Historical  and  Geographical  Institute,  expired.  His 
demise  is  deemed  a  loss  to  the  country,  he  having  been  consid 
ered  the  most  devoted  man  in  it  to  literature  and  science.  I 
attended  his  obsequies  at  the  Paula  Church,  and  there  witnessed 
the  transition  from  childish  gambols  to  the  solemnities  of  a  fu 
neral  ;  from  the  heyday  of  life  to  contemplate  its  extinction. 
Variable  in  his  nature,  man  alternates  between  grief  and  joy ; 
the  poles  of  his  existence — toward  one  or  the  other  he  is  ever 
veering. 

A  friend  of  the  deceased  and  I  went  early,  and  had  time  to 
look  about  before  the  ceremonies  began.  The  church  stands 
at  the  head  of  Ouvidor  Street,  flush  with  the  pavement,  and  is 
relieved  by  poor-looking  dwellings  on  either  hand.  It  is  of  the 
prevailing  style.  Two  square  towers  support  the  central  part, 
whose  peaked  pediment  is  surmounted  with  a  huge  bronze  cross. 
The  towers  run  up  a  story  higher,  each  finished  with  a  dome, 
resembling  a  boy's  inverted  top,  the  peg  set  off  with  a  brazen 
chanticleer — the  symbol  of  Peter  and  of  vigilance. 

The  interior  is  a  long,  high,  and  airy  saloon ;  the  floor  clear 
of  encumbrances  ;  no  aisles,  columns,  pews,  nor  aught  else  to 
intercept  the  view  or  interrupt  one's  movements.  Light  is  ad 
mitted  at  the  sides,  near  the  arched  and  richly-carved  roof, 
through  semicircular  windows,  through  the  street  doors,  which 
as  usual  constitute  the  entrances,  and  also  at  three  windows 
over  them.  The  farther  end  is  wholly  taken  up  with  the  high 
altar,  a  rich  affair,  with  numerous  candles  burning.  Above 


106  SKETCHES    OF 

them  stands  the  saint,  carved,  draped,  and  painted  to  monkish 
life.  Against  the  side  walls  are  six  more  shrines,  three  on  each 
side,  with  their  images  of  natural  dimensions,  so  that  in  this 
place  are  seven  altars,  where  seven  distinct  saints  can  be  in 
voked,  and  where  all,  or  nearly  all  of  them,  are  consulted 
daily. 

This  temple  honors  ignorance  as  well  as  superstition  in  the 
person  of  its  patron,  Francis  Martotile,  a  Calabrian  monk,  who, 
burying  himself  in  a  cell,  acquired,  as  Fakirs  acquire,  notoriety 
by  disgusting  mortifications.  He  renounced  fish,  wine,  meat, 
stockings,  shoes,  beds,  soap,  and  razors,  besides  rigorously  cul 
tivating  mental  destitution.  The  usual  result  followed ;  he,  like 
other  dirty  gentlemen  who  lived  and  died  in  the  odor  of  sancti 
ty  and  filth,  wrought  miracles.  His  fame  induced  that  old  tiger 
Louis  XI.  to  drop  on  his  knees  before  him,  and  implore  his  in 
tercession  with  the  saints  for  a  prolongation  of  life — a  miracle 
too  great  for  the  monk  and  too  good  for  the  culprit.  What  he 
can  do  for  people  here  of  whose  country  he  never  heard,  it  is  not 
hard  to  tell. 

The  only  sign  of  a  funeral  was  a  kind  of  sarcophagus-looking 
stand  in  the  middle  of  the  floor,  similar  to  the  article  furnished 
by  undertakers.  Four  feet  from  it,  on  either  side,  stood  a  row 
of  nine  gilt  candlesticks  of  classic  patterns,  five  feet  high,  with 
candles  to  correspond.  A  negro  mason  was  at  work,  cutting 
a  door-way  into  the  left  wall,  some  fifteen  feet  above  the  floor, 
and  near  the  altar,  for  an  entrance  to  a  new  pendent  or  swallow- 
nest  pulpit,  to  correspond  with  one  opposite.  About  a  dozen 
persons  were  in,  and  all  moving  and  looking  round  as  if  on 
change,  except  an  elderly  female,  who  came  in  and  seated  her 
self  upon  the  matted  floor  within  the  balustrade.  Three  color 
ed  women,  also  in  black  veils,  appeared  and  seated  themselves 
beside  her.  These  were  the  only  females  present.  As  I  leaned 
on  the  rails  close  by  them,  a  well-dressed  man  of  fifty  came  up, 
and,  kneeling  near  me,  touched  with  his  right  thumb  his  head, 
eyes,  nose,  cheeks,  chin,  mouth,  shoulders,  and  breast.  Then, 
without  rising,  he  gazed  round,  looked  at  the  negro  working  in 
the  wall,  nodded  to  me,  and  kept  twisting  himself  about  to  see 
what  was  going  on  behind  him. 

Negroes  brought  in  huge  trays  of  mammoth  candles,  and  piled 


LIFE    IN    BRAZIL. 


107 


them  near  the  door.  A  number  of  gentlemen  soon  after  entered, 
and,  with  those  already  in,  ranged  themselves  three  deep  on 
either  hand,  forming  a  living  passage  from  the  door  toward  the 
altar ;  and  presently  we  all  held  lighted  tapers,  resting  one  end 
on  the  floor,  and  inclining  the  upper  one  forward  to  prevent  the 
swealing  material  from  descending  on  one's  hands.  Two  hund 
red  of  us  thus  stood,  like  soldiers  at  drill  with  muskets,  in  the 
same  position.  As  currents  caused  the  melted  wax  to  accumu 
late  beneath  the  flame,  it  was  unceremoniously  thrown  on  the 
floor  by  bringing  the  tapers  to  a  horizontal  position.  The  offi 
ciating  priest  next  entered,  followed  by  others  bearing  the  cof- 
nn,  which  they  quickly  placed  upon  the  stand. 

Coffins  here  are  not  like  ours,  being  of  the  same  width  and 
depth  throughout,  and  so  shallow  that  the  face,  folded  hands, 
^  ^  _  and  feet  of  the  corpse 

appear  above  the  edge. 
The  covers  are  peak 
ed,  like    the  roofs   of 
houses,   consisting   of 
two  boards  meeting  in 
the  middle  at  an  angle.     Hinged  at  both  sides,  they  open  along 
the  ridge,  so  that  either  one  half  or  both  may  be  thrown  back. 
When  finally  closed,  the  only  fastening  is  a  small  padlock. 
When  placed  on  the  stand,  the  folding  lids  were  laid  back, 

and  the  deceased  se 
cretary,  from  where 
I  stood,  appeared  as 
in  the  accompanying 
sketch.  While  the 
s  priests  walked  round 
/  the  coffin,  chanting, 
•  swinging  censers, 
"  and  sprinkling  the 
corpse,  the  black  ma 
son  above,  resting  on  his  crow-bar,  was  a  conspicuous  spec 
tator. 

We  now  were  about  to  witness  the  mode  of  burial;  one  of 
classical  antiquity,  and  which  to  my  mind  commends  itself  as 
far  superior  to  ours.  The  cemeteries  of  Rio  adjoin  the  rear  or 


108 


SKETCHES    OF 


sides  of  their  respective  churches.  They  are  not  seen  from  any 
street,  not  opening  directly  into  any.  At  first  I  wondered  where 
they  were,  and  when  I  found  them,  I  wondered  more  at  their 
limited  dimensions.  The  dead  are  not  interred  in  graves,  nor 
concealed  below  the  surface ;  instead  of  extensive  burial-grounds 
or  subterraneous  excavations,  room  for  four  thick  walls,  of  which 
the  side  of  a  church  commonly  answers  for  one,  is  found  suffi 
cient.  As  these  places  are  on  one  plan,  a  description  of  this  of 
St.  Francisco  de  Paula  will  give  a  general  idea  of  all. 

Passing  out  through  a  side  door,  we  entered  a  quadrangular 
area  bounded  by  four  high  walls,  with  a  continuous  shed  or 
roof  projecting  inward,  leaving  a  central  space  open  to  the  sky, 
occupied  by  a  few  marble  tomb-stones.  The  niches  for  the 
dead,  wrought  in  the  walls,  were  a  little  over  six  feet  by  two 
and  a  half,  eighteen  inches  high  at  the  ends,  and  two  feet  at 
the  middle,  the  roof  forming  a  low  arch.  All  are  plastered  and 
whitewashed.  In  hot  weather  they  would  be  no  bad  resting- 
places  for  the  living.  I  was  no  longer  surprised  that  people 


PAULA   CHURCH. 


LIFE   IN    BRAZIL.    -  10!) 

here  arc  mostly  buried  without  coffins,  and  especially  as  all  arc 
entombed  in  their  clothes. 

Here  were  three  tiers  of  niches,  each  continued  round  the 
place.  Those  that  are  occupied  have  the  fronts  bricked  up  and 
plastered  over.  All  are  numbered  ;  no  other  mark  or  lettering. 
Their  tenants  occupy  them  too  short  a  time  for  inscriptions  or 
eulogies  to  remain. 

The  coffin  was  placed  on  a  temporary  platform  close  to  a  niche 
in  the  middle  tier,  into  which  it  was  slid  with  the  covers  open. 
A  handkerchief  was  spread  over  the  face  of  the  deceased  by  one 
of  his  friends ;  then,  in  succession,  priests  and  friends  stepped 
up,  one  at  a  time,  and,  with  a  silver  sprinkler  handed  by  the 
sacristan,  threw  holy  water  on  the  body,  and  emptied  a  small 
scoop  of  powdered  quick-lime,  which  an  attendant  held  ready, 
upon  it.  A  bushel  or  more  of  lime  was  thus  disposed  of,  until  it 
entirely  concealed  the  body,  and  was  heaped  over  the  trunk.  A 
priest  used  the  silver  sprinkler  once  more,  poured  something  out 
of  a  small  perforated  box,  and  the  church  ceremonies-were  over. 
We  now  put  out  our  candles,  and  leaned  them  against  the  walls, 
whence  black  attendants  removed  them. 

A  gentleman  now  drew  a  paper  from  his  bosom,  and  for  half 
an  hour  read  a  eulogy  on  the  dead.  A  second,  third,  and  even 
a  fourth  oration  was  thus  delivered  ;  at  the  close  of  which  the 
President  of  the  Institute  closed  the  coffin  lids,  locked  them,  and 
handed  the  minute  key  to  a  relative  of  the. defunct.  Thus  closed 
the  interesting  rites.  Several  officers  of  state,  of  the  military, 
and  members  of  the  Senate  were  present. 

In  half  an  hour  the  front  of  the  niche  was  bricked  up,  and 
covered  with  a  coat  of  white  plaster. 

In  this  mode  of  inhumation  nothing  like  corruption  takes 
place.  The  lime  consumes  the  flesh,  and  in  two  years  the  bones 
are  taken  out  and  placed  in  a  rosewood  or  marble  vase,  or  burn 
ed,  and  the  ashes  preserved.  The  niche  will  then  be  white 
washed,  and  ready  for  another  tenant. 

The  cemeteries  of  Rio  are  literal  copies,  on  a  smaller  scale, 
of  the  sepulchral  structures  of  the  Greeks  and  Eomans.*  The 

*  Sec  Moses'  collection  of  vases,  tripods,  altars,  etc.  Plate  114  represents  one 
discovered  in  Rome  in  1746  It  has  six  rows  of  niches.  Plate  113  exhibits  an 
other  belonging  to  the  Livia  family — all  above  the  surface  of  the  ground. 


110  SKETCHES   OF 

form  of  coffins  here  is  also  of  remote  antiquity.  Originally  of 
stone,  and  placed  in  the  open  air,  their  roofs  were  formed  after 
those  of  houses,  and  with  the  same  view — to  allow  rain  to  run 
off.  Stone  sarcophagi  of  this  description  are  counted  among 
the  oldest  of  ecclesiastic  monuments  in  Europe. 

Two  of  the  orations  were  published.  The  style  is  too  fig 
urative  for  colder  latitudes,  but  is  characteristic  of  the  genius  of 
Brazil.  The  deceased  had  been  ambitious  of  political,  as  well 
as  of  scientific  and  monastic  fame.  He  was  a  member  of  the 
Chamber  of  Deputies,  took  an  active  part  in  the  Revolution,  and 
urged  Pedro  to  assume  the  title  of"  Emperor,"  as  one  more  im 
posing  than  that  of  "  King."  An  extract  from  the  best  of  the 
panegyrics  is  added : 

"  Almost  a  quarter  of  a  century  after  the  consummation  of 
the  famed  fact — the  creation  of  a  new  empire  on  the  earth — 
Death  has  come  and  snatched  away  a  chief  actor  in  the  great 
drama,  of  which  the  principal  actor  was  the  son  of  kings,  the  be 
loved  Prince  of  Liberty  in  the  Old  World  and  the  New.* 

"  He  is  dead  who,  in  that  epoch  of  enthusiasm,  proposed  to 
the  new  sovereign  the  title  of  Emperor,  and  who,  undaunted, 
raised  his  voice  in  the  midst  of  bayonets,  to  anathematize  an 
oppressive  policy,  designed  to  reconquer  in  America  the  irrepar 
able  past,  to  suspend  chains  in  the  throne  where  kings  had  been 
seated,  and  from  which  flowed  facts  that  rendered  a  regress  to 
slavery  impossible. 

"  The  New  World  was  not  shaped  to  be  measured  by  the 
hands  of  a  pigmy.  The  mouths  of  the  Amazon,  Madeira,  Xingu, 
and  Guayba,  were  designed  by  Providence  for  a  people  of  giants ; 
and  for  a  prince  who,  from  the  summit  of  his  throne,  must  one 
day  have  conference  with  the  universe,  and  mark  the  track  of 
his  high  destiny !  The  conception  of  this  grand  idea  was  not 
sufficient  for  the  genius  of  the  man  who  now  rests  in  the  bed  of 
death,  but  day  and  night,  with  his  ardent  and  creative  soul,  he 
worked  to  complete  it. 

"Twenty-six  honorary  titles  adorn  his  memory,  and  in  eigh 
teen  illustrious  societies  was  his  name  proclaimed  that  of  a  sage. 

"  Brazil  must  shed  tears  for  the  loss  of  the  Canon  Januario 
da  Cunha  Barboza." 

*  This  was  Pedro  I.,  whom  the  Brazilians  expelled  for  his  tyranny. 


LIFE   IN    BRAZIL. 


Ill 


CHAPTER  X. 

The  Marimba. — Procession  announced. — Unloading  Lime-boats. — Lapa  Convent 
and  Lady  at  Confession. — The  Carapo  and  Lavandeiras. — Dog-killers. — Custom 
house. — Trucks. — A  Slave  chained  to  one. — Young  and  old  Women  in  Chains 
— Coffee  Carriers. — Crippled  Slaves.  The  Spectacle  given  up. — An  Angel. — 
The  Musuem. — Antiquities,  etc. — Fathers  of  Snuff  and  the  Snuff-trade. — Orig 
inal  Snuff-mills  and  Sniffing  Apparatus.  —  Slave-traders. — Monastery  of  San 
Bento  :  its  Monks,  Chapel,  Cells,  Library,  and  Bookworms. — Sopping. — Great 
Wealth  of  this  Monastery. 

25th.  This  morning  a  slave  came  along  with  a  load  on  his 
head  and  both  hands  in  a  large  gourd,  out  of  which  he  drew  a 
fashionable  waltzing  tune.  I  took  the  opportunity  of  examin 
ing  the  popular  Marimba.  Every  African  nation  has  its  own, 
so  that  a  Congo,  Angola,  Minas,  Ashantee,  or  Mozambique  in 
strument  is  recognizable,  but  the  differences  are  not  great.  A 
series  of  thin  steel  rods,  from  ten  to  fifteen,  are  fixed  on  a  thin 


112  SKETCHES    OF 

board,  five  or  six  inches  square,  in  the  manner  of  flute-keys, 
which  they  resemble.  A  long  and  a  short  one  alternate  ;  some 
times  they  diminish  like  Pan-pipes.  The  board  is  secured  in 
the  larger  half  of  a  dry  calabash.  Grasping  it  with  his  ringers 
beneath,  and  his  thumbs  on  the  keys,  he  produces,  by  pushing 
them  down  at  one  end  and  letting  them  fly  back,  a  soft  hum 
ming  sound  allied  to  that  of  the  Jews'-harp.  The  city  is  an 
Ethiopian  theatre,  and  this  the  favorite  instrument  of  the  or 
chestra.  Slaves  are  daily  met  playing  African  airs  on  it,  and 
groups  returning  to  the  country  have  commonly  one  or  two 
among  them.  In  the  preceding  illustration,  a  couple  are,  like 
Jewish  captives  by  the  river  of  Chebar,  reviving  recollections 
of  home  in  the  songs  of  their  native  land. 

As  this  is  Ash- Wednesday,  there  is  to  be  a  procession,  to 
ward  evening,  from  the  Church  of  "  St.  Francis  of  the  Peni 
tence."  Fourteen  images,  and  among  them  "  Black  Benedict," 
are  to  come  down  the  hill  and  parade  the  streets.  Angels,  too 
—real,  living,  winged  spirits — will,  it  is  said,  join  the  pageant. 
The  lime  of  Rio  is  made  of  shells  scooped  out  of  the  Bay, 
and,  of  course,  is  in  powder.  See  that  falua — a  light  boat  of 
one  mast — riding  at  anchor  some  fifty  feet  from  the  Gloria 
Beach.  She  is  charged  with  lime,  and,  dancing  on  the  swell, 
is  unloading  her  cargo.  The  slave  on  her  bows,  keeping  her 
head  to  the  shore  with  a  long  bamboo,  is  captain ;  the  other,  on 
the  gunwale,  raising  the  dust  on  the  blade  of  a  hoe,  is  her  deck 
hand.  Observe  those  four  blacks,  with  empty  tea-chests  on 
their  heads,  wading  toward  her,  and  as  many  coming  from  her 
with  their  boxes  filled.  How  steadily  they  move,  where  the 
waves  would  take  a  stranger  off  his  feet !  The  water  is  at  the 
arm-pits  of  him  who  is  lifting  his  load  from  the  edge  of  the  ves 
sel;  and  see,  as  he  turns  and  breasts  that  retiring  swell,  it 
swashes  over  his  eyes.  Now  he  comes  dripping  out,  ascends 
the  bank,  and,  crossing  the  street,  empties  his  chest  on  the  floor 
of  an  establishment  for  the  sale  of  building  materials.  As  ho 
does,  so  do  eight  or  ten  more,  keeping  the  hoe  (used  in  place  of 
a  shovel)  in  constant  motion. 

Their  dresses  are  too  primitive  for  laborers  on  our  wharves. 
Some  are,  like  the  skippers  on  the  craft,  in  shirts  minus  both 
sleeves  and  skirts  ;  others  wear  a  petticoat  that  neither  reaches 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  H3 

the  knees  nor  meets  behind  ;  and  two  have  aprons  not  one  whit 
wider  than,  aprons  usually  are.  White  as  their  contents,  the 
boxes  contrast  strongly  with  their  moving  pedestals,  while  these 
increase  in  height  as  they  near  the  beach,  and  all  but  disappear 
at  the  falua.  One,  while  his  box  was  being  filled,  plunged  over 
head  and  washed  himself;  then  tore  off  a  part  of  his  pinafore, 
and  fastened  it  over  his  shoulders,  to  protect  them  from  the 
caustic  dust.  The  scene  altogether  is  a  novel  one,  though  com 
mon  enough  here.  One  old  man's  head  is  so  whitened  with  the 
dust  as  to  remind  one  of  a  cauliflcfwer  on  a  coal-sack. 

Wending  along,  I  came  to  the  Lapa  Church,  and  convent  be 
hind  it.  A  genteel  young  man,  certainly  not  out  of  his  teens, 
was  at  the  door,  in  a  prim  white  alb  just  from  the  laundress. 
The  little  shaven  spot  on  his  head  glistened  within  its  comate 
boundary  like  a  disk  of  pearl  inlaid  in  ebony.  As  I  had  infer 
red  from  repeatedly  passing  that  the  interior  was  in  ruins,  I 
stepped  in.  The  old  rough  walls  were  bare,  the  floor  unflagged 
and  piled  up  with  rubbish.  The  only  part  finished  was  the 
ceiling,  upon  which  the  "Lady  of  Lapa,"  with  legendary  attend 
ants  in  vivid  colors,  contrasted  strangely  with  the  desolation  be 
low  them.  Turning  to  the  right,  a  little  chapel  appeared,  in 
which  a  solitary  monk  was  reading  on  a  bench,  and  near  him 
three  females  seated  on  the  floor.  Another  door  opens  here  into 
the  cemetery.  I  passed  through  it  into  a  passage,  and  followed 
on  into  the  sacristy.  Here  were  three  shrines,  and,  as  no  one 
appeared,  I  examined  them  rather  closely  ;  but,  on  passing 
round  the  second  to  the  third,  lo !  the  skirts  of  a  lady  at  con 
fession  behind  a  chair,  and  the  handsome  young  friar  reclining 
in  it  with  his  ear  at  tli6  strainer. 

I  retired,  and  continued  on  to  the  Campo — a  spacious  square, 
on  the  sides  of  which  several  national  buildings  stand,  including 
the  Senate-house.  Covered  with  stunted  grass,  and  the  site  of 
one  of  the  principal  fountains,  it  is  the  city's  great  washing  and 
bleaching  establishment,  and  is  ever  alive  with  lavandeiras. 
More  than  two  hundred  are  now  scattered  over  the  field,  exclu 
sive  of  crowds  at  the  fount.  From  the  surrounding  mountain 
peaks  they  must  appear  like  clamorous  daws  or  restless  mag 
pies.  How  busy  all  are,  each  in  the  centre  of  a  ring  of  drying 
garments !  The  huge  wooden  bowl,  which,  in  coming  and  re- 

H 


114  SKETCHES   OF 

turning,  serves  as  a  basket,  is  now  a  washing-tub,  and  "the 

baril"  a  bucking-stool.  Most 
are,  like  their  Larangeiras  sis 
ters,  slightly  draped.  A  single 
vestment  with  most  suffices,  and 
with  its  purification  the  wearer 
winds  up  her  labors.  Some  are 
Minas  and  Mozambique  girls,  as 
evinced  by  their  superior  forms, 
and  attentions  to  attire.  If  oth 
ers  are  naked  to  the  waist,  these 
are  so  seldom.  Figures  grace 
ful  as  any  seen  at  the  wells  of 
the  East  occur  among  them. 

With  this  business  of  the  Campo  the  heavens  sympathize ; 
for,  while  the  grass  is  half  concealed  by  garments  bleaching  in 
the  sun,  the  blue  welkin  is  dappled  over  with  snow-white  patch 
es,  as  if  it  was  drying-day  above.  For  the  oldest  and  thickest 
settled  parts  of  Rio  this  is  the  only  washing-place ;  as  such  it 
is  never  clear,  except  in  rainy  weather,  when  we  may  suppose 
Celestials  are  wringing  out  wet  linen. 

The  fountain  supplies  a  wide  district  with  water,  and  hence 
no  small  part  of  the  colored  population  is  constantly  passing 
to  and  from  it.  Let  us  draw  near.  What  a  hubbub !  A  Hot 
tentot  fair  can  not  surpass  it.  These  two  military  policemen 
may  prevent  a  lusty  negro  squeezing  in  before  his  turn  and 
pushing  aside  the  half-filled  baril  of  a  weak  one,  but  they  can 
not  silence  the  oral  clamor.  The  fluid  not  borne  off  runs  into 
two  stone  cisterns,  thirty  feet  by  fifteen,  and  keeps  them  knee- 
deep  filled.  They  are  bordered  with  granite  coping,  which,  slop 
ing  outward,  forms  continuous  washboards  for  the  negroes  with 
in.  A  dozen  or  more  are  busy  in  each.  Splash,  swash,  go 
shirts  and  sheetings!  Plunged,  pounded,  twisted  like  a  rope, 
swung  overhead,  and  flap,  slap,  down  they  come  upon  the  cop 
ing.  A  score  of  these  thongs  are  whirling  in  the  air  at  once, 
wielded  by  infuriates,  whose  laughings  and  screaming  interjec 
tions  break  the  monotony  of  the  ceaseless  gabble  at  the  fount. 
Soap  Street  appropriately  runs  into  the  Campo. 

Lavandeiras  have  no  saint  assigned  them,  yet  they  deserve 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  115 

one,  were  it  only  to  relieve  them  once  a  year  from  the  washing- 
tub.  No  class  have  stronger  claims  upon  the  Church,  nor  on 
the  saints  themselves.  A  mass  can  not  be  performed  nor  a 
festa  kept  without  them.  Festas  are  hailed  as  blessings  by  all 
others,  but  what  do  they  for  these  ?  Drawing  near  they  de 
mand  additional  toil,  and  in  departing  leave  them  naught  but 
piles  of  dirty  linen. 

Invited  to  dine  in  the  city  that  I  might  witness  the  proces 
sion,  I  now  turned  down  Ruo  San  Pedro,  a  long  and  narrow 
street,  in  which  iron  and  copper  smiths,  hatters,  and  guitar- 
makers  were  at  work.  And  here  I  again  observed  how  dogs 
are  sacrificed  to  Sinus.  The  priest  devoted  to  this  service  used 
to  dispatch  his  victims,  like  a  Roman  cultrarius,  with  a  mall  or 
bludgeon,  insidiously  pursuing  them  from  street  to  street ;  but 
now,  to  avoid  the  evil  omens  of  evasive  blows,  he  drops  little 
balls  made  of  flour,  fat,  and  nux  vomica,  which  are  eagerly  de 
voured  by  the  unsuspecting  animals.  Convulsions  and  death 
quickly  follow.  I  have  passed  to-day  no  less  than  four  expir 
ing  and  expired,  and  here  was  the  fifth. 

I  emerged  from  the  long  avenue  in  Dereita  Street,  not  far 
from  the  Custom-house,  where  street-passengers  have  to  run 
a  muck  through  piles  of  bales,  barrels,  packages,  crates,  trucks, 
and  bustling  and  sweating  negroes.  Here  are  no  carts  drawn 
by  quadrupeds  for  the  transportation  of  merchandise.  Slaves 
are  the  beasts  of  draught  as  well  as  of  burden.  The  loads  they 
drag,  and  the  roads  they  drag  them  over,  are  enough  to  kill  both 
mules  and  horses.  Formerly,  few  contrivances  on  wheels  were 
used  at  the  Custom-house.  Every  thing  was  moved  over  the 
ground  by  simply  dragging  it.  A  good  deal  of  this  kind  of 
work  is  still  done.  See  !  there  are  two  slaves  moving  off  with  a 
cask  of  hardware  on  a  plank  of  wood,  with  a  rope  passed  through 
a  hole  at  one  end,  and  the  bottom  greased  or  wetted !  Such 
things  were  a  few  years  ago  very  common. 

Trucks  in  every  variety  are  now  numerous.  Some  recent 
ones  are  as  heavily  built  and  ironed  as  brewers'  drays,  which 
they  resemble,  furnished  with  winches  in  front  to  raise  heavy 
goods.  Each  is  of  itself  sufficient  for  any  animal  below  an  ele 
phant  to  draw ;  and  yet  loads  varying  from  half  a  ton  to  a  ton 
are  dragged  on  them  by  negroes.  Two  strain  at  the  shafts  and 


116 


SKETCHES    OF 


one  or  two  push  behind,  or,  what  is  quite  as  common,  walk  by 
the  wheels  and  pull  down  the  spokes.  It  is  surprising  how 
their  naked  feet  and  legs  escape  being  crushed,  the  more  so  as 
those  in  front  can  not  prevent  the  wheels  every  now  and  then 
sinking  into  the  gutters,  and  whirling  the  shafts  violently  one 
way  or  the  other.  One  acts  as  foreman,  and  the  way  he  gives 
his  orders  is  a  caution  to  the  timid.  From  a  settled  calm  he  in 
a  moment  rages  like  a  maniac,  and  seems  ready  to  tear  his  as 
sociates  to  pieces. 

A  slave  was  chained  to  one  heavy  truck.  He  had  been  ab 
sent  when  it  was  wanted,  and  his  enraged  owner  took  this  meth 
od  of  preventing  him  from  losing  another  job.  The  links  of  the 
chain  were  three  quarter  inch  round  iron. 

Neither  age  nor  sex  is  free  from  iron  shackles.  I  met  this 
morning  a  very  handsome  Mozambique  girl  with  a  double-prong 
ed  collar  on ;  she  could  not  have  been  over  sixteen.  And  a  few 
evenings  ago,  while  standing  on  the  balcony  of  a  house  in  Cus 
tom-house  Street,  a  little  old  negress,  four  fifths  naked,  tod 
dled  past,  in  the  middle  of  the  street,  with  an  enormous  tub  of 
swill  on  her  head,  and  secured  by  a  lock  and  chain  to  her  neck. 
"  Explain  that,  Mr.  C ,"  I  said.  "  Oh,  she  is  going  to  emp 
ty  slops  on  the  beach,  and  being  probably  in  the  habit  of  visit 
ing  vendas,  she  is  thus  prevented,  as  the  offensive  vessel  would 


LIFE    IN   BRAZIL. 


117 


not  be  admitted.  Some  slaves  have  been  known  to  sell  their 
4  barils'  for  mm,  and  such  are  sent  to  the  fountains  and  to  the 
Praya  accoutred  as  that  old  woman  is." 

With  a  friend  I  went  to  the  Consulado,  a  department  of  the 
Customs  having  charge  over  exports.  Gangs  of  slaves  came  in 
continually  with  coffee  for  shipment.  Every  bag  is  pierced  and 
a  sample  withdrawn  while  on  the  carrier's  head,  to  determine 
the  quality  and  duty.  The  tariff,  based  on  the  market  price,  is 
regulated  every  Saturday.  At  present  the  duty  amounts  to 
eleven  per  cent,  on  coffee  and  seven  on  sugars.  The  instru 
ment  used  to  withdraw  samples  of  coffee  is  a  brass  tube,  cut  pre 
cisely  like  a  pen.  The  point  is  pushed  in  at  the  under  side  of 
the  bag,  and  the  berries  pass  through  the  tube.  A  handful  is 
abstracted.  On  withdrawing  the  instrument,  its  point  is  drawn 
over,  and  closes  the  opening.  The  operation  occupies  but  a  few 
seconds.  The  samples  amount  to  some  tons  in  a  year.  They, 
with  those  of  exported  sugars,  are  given  to  the  Lazaretto. 

Every  gang  of  coffee-carriers  has  a  leader,  who  commonly 
shakes  a  rattle,  to  the  music  of  which  his  associates  behind  him 


chant. 


rests  on  the  headland 


shoulders,  the  body  is  inclined  forward,  and  the  pace  is  a  trot 


118  SKETCHES  OF 

or  half  run.  Most  are  stout  and  athletic,  but  a  few  are  so  small 
and  slightly-made  that  one  wonders  how  they  manage  to  keep 
up  with  the  rest.  The  average  life  of  a  coffee-carrier  does  not 
exceed  ten  years.  In  that  time  the  work  ruptures  and  kills 
them.  They  have  so  much  a  bag,  and  what  they  earn  over  the 
sum  daily  required  by  their  owners  they  keep.  Except  four  or 
five,  whose  sole  dress  was  short  canvas  shirts,  without  sleeves, 
all  were  naked  from  the  waist  upward  and  from  the  knees  be 
low  ;  a  few  had  on  nothing  but  a  towel  round  the  loins.  Their 
rich  chocolate  skins  shone  in  the  sun.  On  returning,  some  kept 
up  their  previous  chant,  and  ran  as  if  enjoying  the  toil;  others 
went  more  leisurely,  and  among  them  some  noble-looking  fel 
lows  stepped  with  much  natural  grace. 

A  gang  of  fourteen  slaves  came  past  with  enormously  wide 
but  shallow  baskets  on  their  heads.  They  were  unloading  a 
barge  of  sea-coal,  and  conveying  it  to  a  foundry  or  forge.  The 
weight  each  bore  appeared  equal  to  that  of  a  bag  of  coffee  (160 
Ibs.).  This  mode  of  transporting  coal  has  one  advantage  over 
ours,  since  the  material  is  taken  directly  from  the  vessel  to  the 
place  where  it  is  to  be  consumed.  As  with  coal,  so  with  every 
thing ;  when  an  article  is  once  mounted  on  the  head  of  a  negro, 
it  is  only  removed  at  the  place  where  it  is  to  remain. 

A  couple  of  slaves  followed  the  coal-carriers,  each  perspiring 
under  a  pair  of  the  largest  sized  blacksmith  bellows — a  load  for 
a  horse  and  cart  with  us.  A  week  ago  I  stood  to  observe  eight 
oxen  drag  an  ordinary  wagon-load  of  building  stone  for  the  Ca 
puchins  up  the  steep  Castle  hill ;  it  was  straining  work  for 
them  to  ascend  a  few  rods  at  a  time  ;  to-day  I  noticed  similar 
loads  of  stone  discharged  at  the  foot  of  the  ascent,  and  borne 
up  on  negroes'  heads. 

No  wonder  that  slaves  shockingly  crippled  in  their  lower 
limbs  are  so  numerous.  There  waddled  before  me,  in  a  man 
ner  distressing  to  behold,  a  man  whose  thighs  and  legs  curved 
so  far  outward  that  his  trunk  was  not  over  fifteen  inches  from 
the  ground.  It  appeared  sufficiently  heavy,  without  the  load 
ed  basket  on  his  head,  to  snap  the  osseous  stem  and  drop  be 
tween  his  feet.  I  observed  another  whose  knees  crossed  each 
other,  and  his  feet  preternaturally  apart,  as  if  superincumbent 
loads  had  pushed  his  knees  in  instead  of  out.  The  lamplighter 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  119 

of  the  Cattete  district  exhibits  another  variety.  His  body  is 
settled  low  down,  his  feet  are  drawn  both  to  one  side,  so  that 
his  legs  are  parallel  at  an  angle  of  thirty  degrees.  The  heads  of 
Africans  are  hard,  their  necks  strong,  and  both,  being  perpendic 
ular  to  the  loads  they  are  called  to  support,  are  seldom  injured. 
It  is  the  lower  parts  of  the  moving  columns,  where  the  weights 
are  alternately  thrown  on  and  off  the  jointed  thighs  and  legs, 
that  are  the  weakest.  These  necessarily  are  the  first  to  give 
way  under  excessive  burdens ;  and  here  are  examples  of  their 
having  yielded  and  broken  down  in  every  direction. 

Dereita  Street  is  the  chief  scene  of  religious  pomps.  By 
four  P.M.  the  balconies  began  to  fill  with  ladies  in  full  dress,  the 
heads  of  several  adorned  with  flowers,  and  the  necks  and  ears 
of  all  with  chains  and  pendents.  In  the  whole  street  there  was 
not  a  cap  or  a  bonnet  to  be  seen.  By  five,  the  crowds  on  the 
side-walks  became  anxious  and  restless,  for  the  sky  was  over 
cast  and  increased  in  gloom.  At  six  the  clouds  dissolved  in 
rain,  and  the  spectacle  was  given  up. 

On  the  way  home  I  overtook  some  of  the  actors  in  their  act 
ing  dresses,  and  in  one  couple  beheld  a  vivid  symbol  of  ethereal 
essence  chained  to  mortality  —  a  short,  fat  lay-brother,  bare 
headed,  his  face  glistening  with  perspiration,  and  the  skirts  of 
his  black  alb  or  gown  draggling  on  the  wet  pavement,  over 
which  he  was  hastening  with  a  speed  and  gait  any  thing  but  at 
tractive.  In  one  hand  he  held  an  open  umbrella,  and  with  the 
other  pulled  after  him  an  "  angel  of  the  festival" — a  little,  pret 
ty  girl  of  six  or  seven.  Her  face  was  painted;  a  diadem  sur 
mounted  her  flowing  ringlets ;  she  wore  a  short  scarlet  frock, 
the  stomacher  glittering  with  gems,  and  the  skirts  expanded  by 
elastic  hoops ;  tight  yellow  boots  inclosed  her  tiny  feet,  and  a 
pair  of  Cupid's  wings  fluttered  at  her  shoulders.  There  was  no 
looking  at  the  little  Houri  without  admiring  her  as  she  tripped 
along  buoyant  as  air.  The  springs  in  her  wings  and  skirts  in 
flated  them,  and  at  every  step  she  seemed  ready  to  rise  and  soar 
away  the  instant  her  captor  let  go  her  hand. 

27th.  H and  I  devoted  this  day  to  the  Museum,  which 

faces  the  Senate-house  in  the  Campo.  The  curator,  a  Carmel 
ite  friar  and  professor  of  chemistry,  received  us  cheerfully.  In 
the  yard  was  a  caged  king-vulture,  the  handsomest  of  accipi- 


120  SKETCHES    OF 

trines  ;  his  body  was  cream-color  and  slate,  with  roseate  tints  ; 
his  head  and  neck,  protruded  from  an  ample  frill,  were  varie 
gated  with  crimson,  green,  yellow,  and  some  darker  patches. 
In  a  long  box  near  him  lay  snugly  coiled  a  twelve-foot  boa, 
from  Minas  Province.  Close  by  was  a  curiosity  of  another 
kind,  a  mounted  cannon,  four  and  a  half  feet  long,  three  inches 


bore,  composed  of  two  longitudinal  slabs  of  hard  and  heavy 
wood,  strongly  bound  by  numerous  wrought-iron  rings.  It  had 
evidently  been  used.  It  was  taken  from  the  rebels  at  Para 
during  an  attempt  at  revolution  there,  some  eight  or  nine  years 


Zoology  and  ornithology  are  the  chief  features  of  the  Museum. 
The  native  feline  tribes,  from  the  jaguar  to  the  smallest  of  tiger- 
cats,  are  fully  represented ;  so  are  the  quadrumana.  One  sloth 
is  nearly  four  feet  in  length ;  the  rest  are  less  than  three.  In 
the  brilliant  assemblage  of  birds  are  representatives  from  every 
province,  including,  of  necessity,  a  numerous  deputation  from 
those  fairies  of  the  forest,  humming-birds. 

For  students  of  numismatics,  here  are  ancient  and  modern 
coins  and  medals.  The  collection  of  minerals  is  extensive,  and 
a  laboratory  for  the  analysis  of  ores  is  provided.  Some  inter 
esting  Egyptian  antiquities  have  also  been  procured. 

Native  antiquities  are  few  and  not  of  much  interest ;  but  this 
feature  of  the  institution  will  improve.  There  are  a  few  em 
balmed  heads  from  the  Amazon.  The  Tapajos  thus  preserved 
the  skulls  of  their  enemies,  and  on  special  occasions  carried  them 
suspended  on  the  breast  as  amulets. 

They  look  horrible  enough,  worse  than  New  Zealand  speci 
mens  placed  near  them.  The  sockets  of  the  eyes  are  filled  with 
a  dark  resinous  matter,  in  which  are  imbedded  small  pieces  of 
bone  or  shell.  Into  the  open  mouths  are  inserted  the  ends  of 
strong  corded  loops,  and  the  whole  filled  flush  with  cement. 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL. 


121 


A  ridge  of  black  hair  remains  on  the  crown,  and  at  the  occiput 
considerable  quantities  adhere.  Large  and  handsome  feather 
rosettes  conceal  the  ears,  like  similar  ornaments  of  ribbon  worn 
by  modern  ladies. 

In  one  case  were  specimens  of  musical  instruments.  Double 
flutes  were  extensively  used  by  the  classical  ancients,  and  here 
they  are  as  constructed  by  American  aborigines.  The  bones 
of  which  they  are  made  are  yellow,  jagged,  and  far  from  inviting 
to  delicate  lips.  Their  tones,  however,  are  singularly  soft  and 
mellow. 

A  represents  the  largest.  Each  bone  is  twelve  inches  long, 
and  three  eighths  of  an  inch  bore.  They  are  united  by  twine, 
neatly  wound  and  worked.  On  the  back  of  the  lower  parts  are 

finger-holes — shown  at  B : 
these  were  stopped  up ;  per 
haps  they  were  experiment 
al  additions  of  some  Brazil 
ian  Pronomus.  The  con 
struction  of  the  sounding, 
or  whistle  part,  is  seen  at 
C,  a  cone  of  resinous  ce 
ment  being  secured  immedi 
ately  under  the  orifice.  The 
ridge  of  cement  rises  to  the 
centre  of  the  tube.  The  instrument  is  played  by  blowing 
through  the  upper  end,  as  in  a  clarionet.  E  is  a  smaller  flute, 
to  be  blown  at  either  end.  F  has  a  swelled  wooden  mouth 
piece,  and  no  side-opening.  Dual  bone  flutes,  with  finger-holes, 
are  yet  in  use  in  the  northern  provinces,  besides  bamboo  flutes, 
and  instruments  with  which  the  voices  of  wild  beasts  are  imi- 
table  with  singular  accuracy.  Single  and  double  flutes  of  Greece 
and  Kome  were  of  bone.  The  "Ossea  Tibia"  was  made  of  the 
leg-bone  of  a  crane. 

A  cazique's  trumpet  is  figured  at  Gr.  The  substance,  hard 
as  iron  and  black  as  jet,  appeared  to  have  been  handsomely 
carved.  The  diverging  orifice  is  furnished  with  a  double  row 
of  scarlet  and  yellow  feathers,  which  add  to  its  length,  and  by 
their  vibration  probably  affected  the  notes.  Through  age  they 
are  mostly  stripped.  While  attempting  to  revive  its  long-silent 


122  SKETCHES    OF 

tones,  the  deputy  curator  asked  if  we  knew  what  it  was  made 
of.  It  was  the  end  of  an  alligator's  tail !  Earns'  horns  were 
the  primeval  clarions  of  the  East,  but  no  quadruped  of  South 
America  supplied  any  thing  of  the  kind ;  hence  these  amphibi 
ous  substitutes. 

The  next  thing  was  an  article  of  female  ingenuity,  a  comb, 
in  which  the  teeth,  set  edgeways,  are  thin  slips  of  hard  wood, 
uniform  in  size  and  shape,  and,  by  means  of  four  transverse 
pieces,  firmly  strung  together  by  thread. 
The  needle-work  forms  a  broad  band, 
with  raised  borders,  reflecting  waved  fig 
ures  ;  the  whole  is  smooth  and  regular, 
as  if  woven,  and  the  instrument  is  strong 
as  modern  ones.  The  thread  is  round, 
well  twisted,  and  uniform  as  silk  cord. 
Its  material  is  from  the  macaya,  a  species  of  cocoa,  whose  fruit 
produces  a  shining  white  fibre,  stiffer  than  silk  and  stronger 
than  cotton.  Specimens  of  the  undressed  fibre,  of  thread  made 
of  it,  and  of  stockings,  are  in  the  Museum. 

Combs  of  rosewood,  sometimes  attached  to  coronals  of  feath 
ers  and  other  head  ornaments,  are  still  common  among  the  In 
dians,  and  display  both  taste  and  skill  in  the  hands  that  put 
them  together. 

The  only  sample  of  ancient  native  earthenware  in  the  Museum 
was  disinterred  between  twenty  and  thirty  years  ago  on  the 
Praya  Flamingo,  while  digging  foundations  for  a  house.  The 
internal  diameter  at  the  rim  is  eighteen  inches,  the  depth  six. 

The  thickness  of  the  bot 
tom  and  of  the  sides  ex 
ceeds  an  inch.  It  was 
probably  used  as  a  cal 
dron,  the  under  side  being 

ANCIENT   BRAZILIAN    BASIN.  blackened       aS       wltll       filC. 

No  signs  are  observable  of  the  wheel  in  its  formation,  though 
the  circle  is  tolerably  correct.  The  material  is  a  grayish-yel 
low  clay,  and  imperfectly  burned.  The  inside  has  been  pro 
fusely  decorated.  A  band  of  dark  red  goes  round  just  below 
the  rim,  and  the  rest  is  covered  with  complicated  lines,  that  are 
more  like  a  mass  of  serpents  entangled  together  than  any  thing 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  123 

else.  Small  dots  are  mingled  with  them.  A  light  and  poor 
kind  of  glazing  has  been  put  on,  of  which  remains  are  left.  The 
surface,  inside  and  out,  is  covered  with  an  infinity  of  minute 
cracks,  like  old  teacups  thus  disfigured.  The  outside  has  been 
colored  red,  the  inside  a  palish  yellow,  the  ornamental  lines 
brown. 

In  another  case  were  mills  for  triturating  leaves  of  a  popular 
plant,  of  which  large  quantities  were  manufactured  by  the  an 
cient  natives  ;  also  a  couple  of  philosophical  apparatus  by  which 
the  prepared  material  was  conveyed  into  dark,  tortuous,  and 
precipitous  caverns. 

Previous  to  unlocking  the  case,  our  courteous  attendant  open 
ed  and  gracefully  offered  his  snuff-box — a  common  Brazilian 
practice.  It  reminds  one  of  relators  of  long  or  dry  stories  be 
ginning  with  lighting  a  pipe,  or  treating  themselves  with  a  pinch. 
Suppose  we  imitate  them  on  this  occasion : 

Modern  lovers  of  the  pipe  seldom  think  of  the  worthies  to 
whom  they  are  indebted  for  its  free  enjoyment ;  and  of  those 
who  delight  in  nasal  aliment,  how  few  ever  call  to  mind  the 
Diocletian  persecutions  their  predecessors  passed  through  for 
adhering  to  their  faith  in,  and  transferring  to  their  descendants 
the  virtues  of  tobacco.  Europe  frowned,  and  Asia  threatened. 
Pagan,  Mohammedan,  and  Christian  monarchs  combined  to 
crush  them.  James  I.,  foaming  with  rage,  sent  forth  his  "  Coun 
terblast;"  the  half-savage  ruler  of  the  Muscovites  followed 
suit;  the  King  of  Persia,  Amurath  IV.  of  Turkey,  the  Emperor 
Jehan-Geer,  and  others,  joined  the  crusade.  They  denounced 
death  to  all  found  inhaling  the  fumes  of  the  plant  through  a 
tube,  or  caught  with  a  pellet  of  it  under  their  tongues.  Those 
who  used  it  as  a  sternutative  only  were  to  be  deprived  of  nos 
trils  and  nose.  To  perfect  the  miseries  of  the  delinquents,  Ur 
ban  VIII.  went  in  state  to  the  Vatican,  where,  tremulous  with 
holy  anger,  he  shook  his  garments,  to  intimate  that  the  blood 
of  the  offenders  would  be  on  their  own  heads,  and  then  thun 
dered  excommunication  on  every  soul  who  took  the  accursed 
thing  in  any  shape  into  a  church. 

Loss  of  life  for  lighting  a  pipe !  Mutilation  for  taking  a 
pinch!  Tortures  here,  and  endless  torments  hereafter,  for  a 
whiff  or  quid  of  tobacco !  One  wonders  how  the  sufferers  man- 


124  SKETCHES   OF 

aged  to  pass  through  the  fire  unscathed,  or  even  to  escape  an 
nihilation  ;  yet  most  of  them  did  escape,  and  they  did  more — 
they  converted  the  Nebuchadnezzars  who  sought  to  consume 
them. 

What  a  spectacle !  The  world  in  arms  against  an  herb,  and 
anon  prostrate  before  it!  Proud  rulers  worshiping  the  idol 
whose  admirers  they  had  so  fearfully  menaced,  and  lawgivers 
avowed  violators  of  their  own  laws  I  The  modes  adopted  to  ex 
terminate  the  plant  increased  the  demand  for  it,  till  it  was  sought 
for  with  an  avidity  that  no  penal  enactments  could  suppress. 
Royal  and  sacerdotal  clamor  had  raised  its  consumption  ten 
thousand  fold.  The  tide  turned,  and  all  began  to  praise  the 
magic  leaf.  Ladies  joined  their  lords  in  smoking  after  meals ; 
boys  carried  pipes  in  their  satchels  to  school,  and  at  a  certain 
hour  pedagogues  and  pupils  whiffed  together.  Not  a  bad  sub 
ject  for  a  painter.  Mothers  in  the  sixteenth  century  filled  their 
sons'  pipes  early  in  the  morning,  to  serve  them  instead  of  break 
fast.  People  went  to  bed  with  cigars  or  pipes  in  their  mouths, 
and  rose  in  the  night  to  light  them.  All  classes  became  con 
sumers  ;  even  priests  were  not  excepted,  provided  they  refrained 
till  after  mass.  To  accommodate  travelers,  poor  and  transient 
persons,  Tabagies,  or  smoking-houses,  were  licensed  on  the  Con 
tinent  in  every  marine  and  inland  town,  where  sailors  and  itin 
erants  could,  on  moderate  terms,  be  made  happy,  either  by  in 
haling  the  vapor  of  the  popular  stimulant  or  tickling  their  nasal 
membranes  with  it.  The  ambitious  sought  fame  by  associating 
themselves  with  the  introduction  of  the  plant  and  its  cultivation ; 
hence  we  find  it  named  after  cardinals,  legates,  and  embassa- 
adors,  while,  in  compliment  to  Catharine  de  Medicis,  it  was  called 
"  the  Queen's  herb."  Kings  now  rushed  into  the  tobacco- trade. 
Those  of  Spain  took  the  lead,  and  became  the  largest  manufac 
turers  of  snuff  and  cigars  in  Christendom.  The  royal  work 
shops  in  Seville  are  still  the  most  extensive  in  Europe.  Other 
monarchs  monopolized  the  business  in  their  dominions,  and  all 
began  to  reap  enormous  profits  from  it,  as  most  do  at  this  day. 

Much  has  been  written  on  a  revolution  so  unique  in  its  ori 
gin,  unsurpassed  in  incidents  and  results,  and  constituting  one 
of  the  most  singular  episodes  in  human  history ;  but  next  to 
nothing  is  recorded  of  whence  the  various  processes  of  manufac- 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL. 


125 


ture  and  uses  were  derived.  Some  imagine  the  popular  pabu 
lum  for  the  nose  of  transatlantic  origin:  no  such  thing.  Co 
lumbus  first  beheld  smokers  in  the  Antilles,  Pizarro  found  chew- 
ers  in  Peru,  but  it  was  in  the  country  discovered  by  Cabral  that 
the  great  sternutatory  was  originally  found.  Brazilian  Indians 
were  the  fathers  of  snuff,  and  its  best  fabricators.  Though 
counted  among  the  least  refined  of  aborigines,  their  taste  in  this 
matter  was  as  pure  as  that  of  the  fashionable  world  of  the  East. 
Their  snuff  has  never  been  surpassed,  nor  their  apparatus  for 
making  it. 

The  following  is  their  milling  and  sniffing  machinery — ma 
chinery,  we  believe,  never  figured  and  published  before. 

F  is  a  slab  ofjac- 
aranda  (rosewood), 
ten  inches  long,  of 
which  five  are  taken 
up  with  the  handle. 
The  blade  is  nearly 
half  an  inch  thick, 
with  a  cavity  in  the 
middle.  The  ex 
tremity  of  the  han- 

AflB     c      D  HHBBHi  die    represents    the 

head  of  a  serpent, 
with  the  tongue  pro 
truded.  E  is  a  cyl 
indrical  stick  of  rosewood,  nine  inches  long  and  three  fourths  of 
an  inch  in  diameter.  These  two  constitute  a  mill.  The  owner 
takes  out  of  a  "  chuspa" — a  pouch,  commonly  slung  over  his 
right  shoulder — a  few  pieces  of  dried  tobacco  leaf,  places  them 
in  the  cavity,  and,  grasping  the  stick,  grinds  them  by  rubbing 
its  end  to  and  fro  upon  them,  and  in  a  few  moments  reduces 
them  to  a  rich  and  fragrant  snuff;  nor  is  the  fragrance  wholly 
due  to  the  substance  ground,  but  to  the  material  of  the  mill. 
The  heat  developed  by  the  friction  of  two  pieces  of  odorous 
wood  evolves  a  pleasant  aroma  that  impregnates  the  powder. 

The  article  being  thus  prepared,  the  next  thing  is  to  transmit 
it  to  its  destination  ere  it  grows  cold,  or  the  odor  becomes  weak 
ened  by  evaporation.  The  apparatus  for  this  part  of  the  busi- 


ANCIENT   BRAZILIAN   SNUFF-MILLS. 


126  SKETCHES   OF 

ness  is  shown  at  A ;  it  consists  of  a  double  tube,  consisting  of 
two  light  cylindrical  bones  united  by  thread,  having  the  upper 
ends  tipped  with  small  wooden  bulbs.  The  reader  has  antici 
pated  the  rest :  no  sooner  is  the  triturating  process  ended  than 
the  pestle  or  stick  is  thrown  down,  the  plain  ends  of  the  tube 
are  plunged  into  the  smoking  powder,  the  others  inserted  into 
the  nostrils,  and  by  a  smart  inhalation  the  warm-scented  dust 
is  diffused  in  a  trice  over  the  olfactory  palate !  D  represents 
another  mill,  in  which  the  grinding  receptacle  is  in  the  shape  of 
a  gutter  running  out  at  the  end  of  the  blade ;  C  is  an  edge  view, 
and  B  the  rubber. 

Suspended  by  a  string  round  the  neck,  an  Indian  had  this 
apparatus  always  at  hand.  At  the  back  of  one  or  both  is  an 
angular  recess  for  the  purpose  of  producing  fire  by  friction, 
thus  uniting  in  each  a  snufF-box,  mill,  and  tinder-box. 

Modern  Indians  are  as  fond  of  snuff  as  their  ancestors  ;  their 
apparatus  for  making  and  taking  it  are  also  similar  to  those  de 
scribed.  I  have  seen  neat  circular  mills  from  two  to  five  inches 
across,  with  short  conical  and  pyramidal  pestles  or  mullers ; 
sniffing-pipes  also,  more  portable  than  those  figured.  Some 
times  three  bones  are  united — one  to  put  into  the  snuff,  con 
nected  with  two  for  the  nose — like  one  pipe  serving  two  suction- 
pumps. 

An  ardent  enemy  to  all  stimulants,  wet  or  dry,  might,  after 
reading  the  foregoing,  be  disposed  to  ask,  And  has  not  tobacco 
avenged,  to  some  extent,  the  New  World  for  the  blood  of  her 
children  slain  by  those  of  the  Old — in  its  Circean  effects,  phys 
ical  and  moral;  in  the  wealth  it  has  drawn  and  continues  to 
draw  from  consumers  ?  All  the  conquerors  have  become  taint 
ed  with  the  poison  ;  the  most  ruthless  are  the  most  deeply  pol 
luted.  Formerly  the  first  powers  of  the  earth — now  contempt 
ible  for  their  weakness,  dissensions,  and  crimes  —  slaves  to 
blighting  superstitions,  to  ignorance,  poverty,  pride,  and  a  pois 
onous  weed. 

28th.  A  slaver  arrived  on  the  coast  the  other  evening,  and 
yesterday  her  cargo  was  landed  a  little  north  of  the  city,  with 
slight  attempts  at  concealment.  J says  the  largest  for 
tunes  here,  with  few  exceptions,  are  realized  by  the  traffic. 
Passing  lately  a  new  castle-like  structure  in  Mata  Cavallos,  he 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  127 

remarked,  "  The  blood  of  negroes  built  that."  A  Brazilian  lady 
observed  more  than  once  to  me  that  the  great  slave-merchants 
do  not  flourish  long,  and  never  prosper  to  the  last.  "  They  die 
early,  or  their  wealth  leaves  them  ;  they  live  unhappy,  and  sel 
dom  leave  children.  With  them  the  smell  of  gain  is  good,  but 
like  ice  it  melts  away." 

Met  II according  to  appointment,  and  started  with  him 

to  visit  the  Monastery  of  San  Bento,  the  oldest  one  in  Brazil. 
Male  visitors  are  admitted  from  nine  to  twelve.  To  females 
the  entree  is  tabooed.  Climbing  the  wide  zigzag  steep,  we 
reached  the  plateau.  The  building  appears  rather  small  and 
mean.  The  front  of  the  church  looks  like  the  gable  end  of  an 
old  Dutch  house,  except  that  two  square  towers  run  up  a  little 
higher,  and  are  set  off  with  low  pyramidal  termini.  "We  enter 
ed  on  a  corridor  paved  with  plain  and  lettered  tomb-stones  of 
monks  and  abbots:  one  bears  the  date  of  1560.  A  colored 
man  was  standing  by  the  chapel  door  ;  he  told  us  the  fathers 
were  at  prayers,  and  would  soon  be  out.  Presently  they  came 
rushing  forth,  not  the  aged  and  emaciated  beings  I  had  antici 
pated,  but  smart  young  fellows,  fat  and  fair.  There  were  fif 
teen,  of  whom  not  one  could  be  over  twenty-three,  and  some 
had  certainly  not  seen  eighteen.  In  long-sleeved  gowns,  noth 
ing  but  their  heads  and  hands  were  visible.  All  bore  the 
Church's  mark,  but  scarcely  two  of  their  tonsures  were  alike.* 

H recognized  an  acquaintance  in  one,  and  by  a  low  shr 

arrested  his  attention ;  then,  closing  once  or  twice  the  fingers  of 
his  right  hand  without  raising  it  from  his  side,  the  young  father 
came  directly  to  us.  An  affable  and  good-looking  youth  of  about 
seventeen,  he  led  us  into  the  chapel,  the  richest  in  ancient  carv 
ings  and  gilding  in  the  city.  It  seemed  all  gold,  but  much  worn 
and  tarnished.  In  the  naves  are  statues  of  four  kings,  and  eight 
bishops  of  the  Benedictine  order,  in  the  midst  of  arabesques, 
flowers,  and  figures  in  high  relief.  San  Bento  himself  stands 
at  one  side  of  the  altar,  and  Our  Lady  on  the  other.  One  lamp 

*  Anciently  a  mark  of  infamy  inflicted  on  felons  and  slaves,  shaving  the  head 
was  adopted  from  a  mistaken  humility,  to  show  that  those  who  bore  the  stigma 
were  slaves  to  the  Church ;  but  then  the  razor  swept  the  whole  scalp.  In  time, 
portions  were  excepted,  and  eventually  a  circular  spot  on  the  crown  was  alone 
made  bare,  and  now  it  varies  in  dimensions,  as  in  these  young  friars,  from  a  shil 
ling  to  a  saucer. 


128  SKETCHES    OF 

is  remarkable  for  its  design  and  ornaments.  Two  other  an 
tiques  of  the  kind  weigh  between  three  and  four  thousand  ounces 
of  silver. 

The  monks'  cells  are  arranged  along  both  sides  of  wide  pas 
sages  on  the  second  floor.  Neat  little  rooms,  each  is  furnished 
with  a  bed,  bureau,  table,  chair,  and  looking-glass.  They  are 
kept  in  order  by  male  slaves.  The  organ-gallery  has  some  fine 
old  Gothic  furniture :  a  reading-table  on  a  spiral  stem  is  wor 
thy  of  special  notice.  At  the  back  of  the  organ,  and  facing  the 
choristers,  is  a  large  statue  of  Christ  on  the  cross,  horrible  to 
look  at,  on  account  of  the  wounds,  blood,  and  the  agony  depict 
ed  in  the  features.  In  one  of  the  gallery  passages,  among  lum 
ber,  stood  another  statue,  nearly  full  size. 

Our  young  friend  obtained  permission  to  show  us  the  library 
— a  large,  commodious  room  on  the  highest  floor,  with  prospects 
opening  from  its  windows  enough  to  enchant  an  anchorite.  Be 
fore  the  agitation  of  independence,  here  were  fourteen  thousand 
volumes ;  at  the  close  of  commotions  incident  to  it,  not  half  re 
mained.  Great  numbers  of  the  missing  volumes  are  said  to  be 
in  the  public  library — a  place  more  favorable  to  their  preserva 
tion  and  to  public  access.  With  few  exceptions,  the  shelves 
were  laden  with  massive  Latin  tomes  of  the  fathers,  canon  law, 
legends  of  the  Church,  lives  of  the  saints,  &c.  Baronius,  in 
34  immense  folios,  besides  3  of  indices ;  Albertus  in  21 ;  Or 
ders,  Acts,  and  Annals  of  St.  Benedict,  in  12  or  14  more  ;  a  val 
uable  work,  in  40  or  50  folios,  on  the  Antiquities  of  Italy  and 
Greece.  Montfaucon,  Aristotle,  and  a  few  treatises  on  Philos 
ophy. 

To  what  extent  reading  is  enjoined  by  the  abbot  we  did  not 
learn,  but  no  private  or  public  collection  bears  stronger  marks 
of  bibliothecal  taste  or  literary  voracity.  We  read  of  recluses 
wearing  out  missals,  but  here  one  fifth,  one  fourth,  and,  in  some 
cases,  one  third  of  every  leaf  has  disappeared,  and  the  remain 
der  left  as  free  from  backs  and  covers  as  if  they  had  never  been 
glued  together.  Ponderous  folios  have  been  reduced  to  shape 
less  sheets,  varying  between  quartos  and  octavos.  As  may  be 
surmised,  these  persevering  seekers  after  knowledge  are  of  For- 
mican  descent ;  children  of  a  race  proverbially  wise  ;  industri 
ous  too,  for  to  them  Solomon  sent  sluggards  for  instruction. 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  129 

Now,  near  twelve,  we  descended  and  looked  for  a  moment 
into  the  kitchen,  where  a  negro  was  hopping  about  on  one  leg, 
aided  by  a  crutch.  Some  years  ago  he  applied  for  charity,  and 
is  now  cook.  A  laughing  lad  of  sixteen,  a  friar,  was  attending, 
in  his  turn,  on  such  poor  visitors  as  might  come  a  sopping. 
"And  have  any  come  ?"  "  Si,  senhor,"  he  replied,  and  beckon 
ed  us  to  the  open  door  of  the  refectory  :  four  rather  respectably- 
dressed  white  men  were  busy,  each  with  a  heaped  plate  of  rice 
and  fish.  Common  beggars  bring  their  own  spoon  and  calabash, 
and  receive  sops  and  porridge  outside.  Recollecting  how  Cer 
vantes  and  poor  Spanish  scholars  often  depended  on  victuals 
thus  doled  out  of  monasteries,  I  suggested,  in  order  more  fully 
to  realize  the  thing,  that  we  should  go  in  and  be  indebted  to 
Saint  Benedict  for  a  dinner.  The  young  father  was  delighted 
with  the  proposition,  and  was  on  the  point  of  calling  on  the 
wooden-legged  provider,  but  my  companion  was  inflexible. 

This  monastery  is  reputed  here  the  richest  in  the  world.  Be 
sides  the  greater  parts  of  some  streets,  and  the  whole  of  others, 
where  stores  bring  the  best  rents,  the  fathers  have  estates  in 
each  of  the  eighteen  divisions  of  the  empire.  Their  principal 
lands  are  in  the  three  provinces  of  Rio,  Bahia,  and  Pernambuco. 
On  some  plantations  they  employ  a  thousand  slaves.  On  Ilha 
do  Governador,  the  largest  island  in  Rio  Bay,  they  have  a  large 
farming  establishment,  over  which  a  number  of  friars  regularly 
preside.  A  numerous  brood  of  colored  boys  and  girls  are  there 
raised  till  old  enough  to  be  sent  to  labor  on  the  estates  in  the 
interior. 

I 


{30  SKETCHES   OF 


CHAPTER  XL 

Diversity  of  Complexion  in  one  Family. — Sabbath  Diversions. — Street  of  Silver 
smiths. — Its  staple  Manufactures. — Amulets. — Figas. — Lock  and  Key. — Passage 
in  Shakspeare  explained. — Eating-houses. — Charges. — Sneezers  "blessed." — 
Priests. — Free  colored  Men. — Great  Consumption  of  Pork. — National  Dish. — 
Pastry  and  Confectionery. — Heavenly  Bacon. — Francis  of  Penitence. — Brother 
hoods  akin  to  modern  Odd  Fellows. — Terms  of  Admission. — Advantages. — Who 
this  Francis  was. — Garden,  and  Electric  Eel. — Current  Philosophy  respecting 
the  Sex. — Divination. — Provincial  Nicknames. — Dowries  in  Cocoa  and  Coffee- 
trees. — Vegetable  and  other  Sobriquets.  —  Horsewomen. — Officers'  Wives  on 
Drill  in  Military  Costume. — Morals  of  the  Priesthood. 

March  1,  Sunday.  A  Mozambique  Mercury  arrived  from 
Senlior  N —  -  with  a  dispatch,  stating  that  he,  his  wife,  two 
sons,  and  five  daughters  were  on  the  way  from  Nictherohy  to 
spend  the  day  with  us.  In  half  an  hour  they  came,  and  pre 
sented  a  diversity  of  complexion  and  features  that  surprised 
me.  The  youngest,  a  lad  of  fourteen,  was  very  fair ;  the  color 

of  the  rest  veered  between  cinnamon  and  olive.  H ,  to 

whom  I  spoke  on  the  subject,  said  tints  so  variegated  and 
strongly  marked  in  one  family  were  not  common,  nor  yet  rare ; 
adding,  "If  you  want  to  see  fair  and  handsome  women,  go 
down  to  Rio  Grande." 

The  hair  of  all,  no  matter  how  light  in  infancy,  becomes  black. 

B showed  me  specimens  taken  in  early  life  from  the  heads 

of  his  own  children.  Some  were  nearly  white ;  all  now  have 
raven  locks. 

The  old  vicar  came,  and,  as  usual,  joined  a  party  at  cards  till 
dinner,  after  which,  dancing  and  music  till  nine,  when  tea  was 
served,  and  then  more  dancing  till  eleven  P.M.  I  am  thus 
particular  to  show  how  very  differently  Romanists  here  and 
Protestants  in  colder  climates  view  the  Sabbath.  The  former 
accuse  the  latter  of  making  it,  by  stringent  rules  and  tedious 
services,  the  most  miserable  of  the  seven,  whereas,  say  they,  it 
ought  to  be  the  pleasantest.  Hence,  after  morning  mass,  social 
amusements  and  hilarity  are  deemed  not  only  innocent,  but  mer 
itorious.  On  this  subject  a  lady  observed  to  me,  "God,  in 
making  the  world,  worked  every  day  till  Sunday,  and  then  he 


LIFE    IN   BRAZIL. 


131 


took  his  pleasure ;  so  must  we ;  he  would  be  angry  if  we  did 
not." 

2d.  Visited  with  H several  shops  in  Silversmith  Street. 

The  staple  stock  in  all  consists  of  amulets,  jewelry,  paliteiros. 
spurs,  and  Church  ornaments.  Neither  forks,  pitchers,  trays, 
or  tea-sets  are  made  in  Rio.  One  pair  of  spurs,  with  chain  and 
straps,  weighed  four  pounds.  The  shops  are  small,  without 
glass  windows,  and,  with  a  small  additional  room,  bring  an  av 
erage  rent  of  $40  a  month. 

More  or  less  of  classical  jewelry  is  to  be  found  in  all  the  Lat-  f  * 
in  nations :  much  of  it  is  current  in  Brazil.  Ancient  charms 
and  amulets,  including  the  Jig  a,  are  as  common  as  ever  they 
were  in  Thebes,  Ephesus,  or  Rome.  Although  I  had  repeated 
ly  observed  the  small  perpendicular  case  hung  out  against  th( 
door-post  of  each  shop,  it  was  not  till  my  attention  was  turned  ^ 
to  amulets  that  I  stopped  to  examine  the  contents.  They  are 
very  much  the  same  from  one  end  of  the  long  street  to  the  oth 
er.  Besides  crosses,  crucifixes,  crowns,  palms,  glories,  and  oth 
er  little  sacerdotal  bijouterie,  every  case  contains  staple  amulet? 
in  gold,  silver,  stone,  ivory,  etc.  In  some,  these  constitute  the 
principal — in  all,  a  prominent  item.  Specimens  are  subjoined. 


132  SKETCHES   OF 

The  amulets  marked  «,  £,  c  are  known  as  the  "  Signs  of 
Solomon,"  and  are  very  popular;  f  is  another,  much  worn  by 
children;  c7,  d  are fi 'gas — one  in  gold,  the  other  cornelian.  I 
have  seen  them  of  horn,  bone,  wood,  and  lead.  They  are  de 
cidedly  the  chief  of  amulets,  being  worn  by  all  classes  and  all 
ages,  from  teething  infants  to  second  childhood.  They,  as  well 
us  others,  are  blessed  by  priests  before  being  worn  ;*  e  I  sup 
pose  to  be  the  tooth  of  some  animal ;  one  precisely  like  it  was 
taken  by  the  police,  with  other  paraphernalia,  from  an  African 
conjuror ;  y  is  of  coral ;  the  artist  explained  its  virtues,  but  I 
did  not  understand  him  ;  i  represents  a  pair  of  eyes  ;  groups  of 
these  stare  at  you  from  every  case,  varying  in  size  from  those 
in  the  illustration  to  two  or  three  times  as  large ;  they  are  com 
posed  of  thin  strips  of  gold  and  silver,  struck  in  .dies  ;  and  re 
semble  those  given  out  at  the  Festival  of  the  Protectress  of 
Eyes — St.  Luzia.  They  keep  off  the  evil  eye;  k  is  a  "Dove 
Amulet ;"'  /,  I  are  keys  of  ancient  form,  and  are  quite  common : 
HI  is  a  bulla  within  a  ring ;  n  is  another  form,  much  worn  by 
children ;  Minas  and  Mozambique  women  sport  large  ones,  and 
so  do  most  fashionable  white  ladies ;  o  is  a  cock's  spur — also 
made  of  brass,  tin,  silver,  etc.  In  the  same  case  was  another 
amulet,  resembling  it  in  form,  but  much  larger;  p  and  q  are 
rings,  with  locks,  keys,  hearts,  crescents,  hour-glasses,  etc.,  sus 
pended  upon  them,  each  having  a  significance  of  its  own. 

Anxious  parents  protect  their  children  by  a  number  of  these 
jm^HfffltJTflfT  The  device  is  neither  due  to  modern  nor  medi- 
oval  ingenuity.  We  find  it  exemplified  in  Pharaonic  neck 
laces,  and  other  relics  of  past  epochs.  Images  of  gods,  shell- 
beads,  birds,  beasts,  and  scores  of  symbols  were  strung  round 
i  he  neck  and  attached  to  various  parts  of  the  body.  The  same 
thing  was  formerly  in  vogue  in  Europe.  Finger-rings  decorated 
iu  this  manner  are  in  high  esteem  in  Brazil.  They  are  met 
^v'ith  in  most  of  the  jewelers'  shops.  Fig.  h  is  one ;  a  miniature 
iiga,  bulla,  padlock,  key,  crescent,  cockspur,  &c.,  were  attached 
10  the  one  from  which  the  illustration  was  taken. 

Here  are  necklaces  and  bracelets  which  look  like  charms 

*  The  old  practice  of  "  making  the  figv  to  express  insult  or  contempt  is  referred 
to  by  DANTE  in  his  Vision  of  Hell,  Canto  xxv.  See  also  DOUGH'S  Illustrations  of 
Shakspcarc. 


LIFE  IN   BRAZIL.  133 

against  hunger  rather  than  against  witchcraft.     One  of  the  for 
mer  before  me — a  gold  one — is  made  up  of  knives,  forks,  a  pad 
lock  and  key,  a  stew-pan,  water-jar,  plates,  dishes,  ewer  and 
basin,  and  twenty  other  culinary  and  domestic  things.     The  best 
work  of  this  kind  comes  from  Bahia.     Dona  E has  a  brace 
let  made  there,  three  inches  wide,  and  divided  into  four  com 
partments,  in  which  kitchen  utensils  to  the  number  at  least  of 
fifty  are  arranged.     All  are  of  gold,  attached  to  the  band  by  loose 
rings.     These  bracelets  are  in  great  repute  in  the  country,  and 
are  not  entirely  out  of  date  in  the  cities.     There  are  morals  in 
ear-pendents :  an  hour-glass  worn  at  each  lobe  was  an  old  Eu- 
ropean  fashion.     It  is  not  out  of  date  in  Brazil.     But,  though     .     t 
common  in  the  interior,  many  city  belles  have  a  distaste  for  such     / 
monitors  of  their  fleeting  charms  and  the  flight  of  time.     When  ,     j: 
watches  came  into  vogue,  efforts  we  know  were  made  to  secure 
for  them  the  same  favorable  regard  which  the  sex  had  accorded 
to  those  primitive  chronometers  ;  and,  strange  as  it  may  seem, 
ladies  then  sported  real  ticking  horologes  at  their  ears.     For  the 
benefit  of  those  who  have  never  dreamed  of  trinkets  teaching  ^i 
ethics,  and  are  incredulous  of  the  union  of  piety  and  fashion  in 
our  great-grand-dams,  also  to  do  justice  to  the  moral  and  me 
chanical  ingenuity  of  the  old  jewelers,  I  add  the  following  from ,  _    v 
an  old  writer :  ['\ 

"  The  wit  of  man  hath  been  luxuriant  and  wanton  in  the  in-  W/1 
ventions  of  late  years.  Some  have  made  watches  so  small  and 
slight  that  ladies  hang  them  at  their  ears  like  pendents  and 
jewels.  The  smallness  and  variety  of  the  tools  that  are  used 
about  these  small  engines  seem  to  me  no  less  admirable  than 
the  engines  themselves ;  and  there  is  more  art  and  dexterity  in 
placing  so  many  wheels  and  axles  in  so  small  a  compass,  than 
in  making  clocks  and  greater  machines  ;  for  some  French  watches 
do  not  exceed  the  compass  of  a  farthing." 

Locks  and  keys  were  once  common  auricular  pendents,  and  are 

.still  sometimes  seen.     Dona  L ,  a  lady  of  my  acquaintance, 

wears  the  lock  at  the  right  ear,  and  the  key  at  the  left.  Others 
have  both  at  each  ear.  The  sentiment  embodied  in  the  device 
is  apparent — lock  up  what  you  hear.  Thus  Othello  to  Emilia  : 


"  There's  money  for  your  pains  ; 
I  pray  you  turn  the  key,  and  keep  our  counsel." 


134  SKETCHES   OF 

Warburton,  not  aware  that  ear-jewels  in  these  forms  were 
once  common,  makes  a  mistake  worthy  of  Dogberry  himself,  in 
attempting  to  elucidate  the  following  observation  of  that  learned 
dignitary:  "And  also  the  watch  heard  them  talk  of  one  De 
formed  ;  they  say,  he  wears  a  key  in  his  ear,  and  a  lock  hang 
ing  by  it."  On  this  the  bishop  remarks:  "They  heard  the 
conspirators  satirize  the  Fashion :  whom  they  took  to  be  a  man 
surnamed  Deformed.  This  the  constable  applies  with  exquisite 
humor  to  the  courtiers,  in  a  description  of  one  of  the  most  fan 
tastical  fashions  of  that  time — the  men  wearing  rings  in  their 
ears,  and  indulging  a  favorite  lock  of  hair,  which  was  brought 
before  and  tied  with  ribbons,  and  called  a  love-lock."  Malone 
has  a  note  to  the  same  effect.  I  am  not  aware  that  any  com 
mentator  has  properly  explained  the  passage. 

Keys  were  symbols  of  confidence  and  secresy  among  the  an 
cients.  They  were  presented  by  husbands  to  wives,  and  worn 
on  finger-rings.  See  Montfaucon,  torn,  iii.,  part  i.,  book  iii., 
cap.  iii. 

There  are  three  or  four  eating-houses  in  Kio.  I  beg  the 
reader's  pardon  for  having  fatigued  him  so  long  without  asking 
him  into  one.  Here  is  a  Casa  de  Pasto,  patronized  by  mer 
chants,  silversmiths,  and  shopmen.  We  pass  through  a  little 
apartment  in  front,  into  a  rather  dark  and  moderate-sized  one 
behind.  Drawing  chairs  to  an  unoccupied  table,  a  printed  bill 
of  fare,  with  prices,  is  laid  before  us. 

The  charges  are  low :  for  98  cents  two  of  us  had  soup,  beef 
steaks,  boiled  tongue,  a  ragout,  pudding,  and  a  bottle  of  wine. 
[  refused  to  have  any  thing  to  do  with  the  ragout,  recollecting 
Santillane  supping  on  one.  I  believe  there  was  no  cause  to 
fear  fishing  up  such  ingredients  as  he  did,  but  there  was  no  get 
ting  rid  of  certain  impressions  where  so  many  things  recalled 
the  adventures  of  the  godson  of  Gil  Perez.  Besides,  it  was  the 
conscience  of  a  Lusitanian  that  served  up  cat  instead  of  rabbit, 
and  who,  without  owning  a  goat,  managed  to  sell  kids.  Then 
every  thing  that  has  life  and  substance  is  caught  and  cooked  in 
the  interior,  if  not  in  the  cities  of  Brazil,  Levitical  distinctions 
between  clean  and  unclean  being  wholly  disregarded. 

After  the  table  was  cleared  we  fell  into  conversation  with  two 
gentlemen  who  had  joined  us.  A  snuff-box  was  passed  round, 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  135 

and  one  of  the  party  sneezed,  on  which  another  exclaimed  "Dom- 
inus  teeu'irC'1 — a  common  salutation  in  such  cases,  and  always 
acknowledged  with  a  polite  inclination  of  the  head.  A  priest 
came  in  and  took  a  seat  near  us ;  in  citizens'  dress,  I  did  not 
recognize  him  as  one  till  he  removed  his  hat  and  exposed  his 
tonsure.  Although  Lent,  he  did  not  confine  his  meal  to  Lenten 
fare.  Priests  are  here  reputed  free  livers.  Nearly  all  have 
families,  and  when  seen  leaving  the  dwellings  of  their  wives — 
or  females  who  ought  to  be — they  invariably  speak  of  them  as 
their  nieces  or  sisters,  verifying  an  old  Peninsular  device,  Ida 
y  venida  por  casa  de  mi  tia — It  is  my  aunt's  house  at  which 
I  call. 

Young  colored  men  came  in,  sat  down  without  hesitation  at 
the  same  table  with  whites,  and,  on  a  perfect  equality,  took  part 
in  the  conversation. 

The  prominent  feature  in  dietetics  here  is  the  enormous  con 
sumption  of  pork.  It  is  used  by  the  highest  and  lowest,  and 
used  every  day.  And  then  what  pork  !  It  is  all  fat ;  at  least 
what  lean  appears  is  but  a  film — a  slip  of  pink  blotting-paper 
lost  in  a  ledger.  One  is  surprised  to  find  the  strongest  reasons 
for  prohibiting  swine's  flesh  in  warm  climes  in  the  East  so  suc 
cessfully  set  at  naught  here,  and  under  the  equator  itself. 
European  physicians  of  long  standing  here  admit  that  it  is  as 
wholesome  in  Brazil  as  in  any  part  of  the  earth.  Brazilians  are 
a  fat  and  sleek  people,  and  though  the  enervating  influences  of 
the  climate,  and  the  lassitude  it  induces,  prevent  them  from 
working  off  superfluous  flesh  by  labor,  as  our  pig-eating  farmers 
and  others  do,  their  general  health,  and  the  great  age  to  which 
many  arrive,  corroborate  the  doctors'  views. 

The  active  native  hog — the  peccary — secretes  little  fat. 

Pork,  always  held  in  high  esteem  in  Europe,  was  particularly 
so  by  Spaniards  and  Portuguese.  With  them  and  other  people 
it  was  usual  to  begin  the  Easter  feast,  in  celebration  of  the  ex 
piration  of  Lent,  not  with  a  sirloin  or  rump  of  beef,  but  with  a 
gammon  of  bacon — a  dish  often  ushered  in  by  a  laughable  rep 
resentation,  in  dough,  of  Lenten  fare  and  its  departure — a  dried 
herring  on  a  galloping  steed.  The  great  Spanish  dish  is  the 
olla,  composed  of  fowls,  mutton,  beef,  and  other  matters,  but 
never  without  bacon;  hence,  "An  olla  without  bacon  is  no 


136  SKETCHES   OF 

olla."  And  so  with  the  Portuguese  and  Brazilians — A  dinner 
without  toucinho  is  next  to  no  dinner  at  all.  J^eijao  com  tou- 
cin/w  is  the  national  dish  of  Brazil. 

For  the  information  of  ladies,  and  of  some  future  Mrs.  Glass, 
the  names  of  a  few  popular  articles  of  native  pastry  and  confec 
tionery  are  added.  Those  on  the  bill  of  fare  awakened  curiosity, 
as  well  they  might :  Celestial  Slices — fine  bread  soaked  in  milk, 
and  steeped  in  a  hot  compound  fluid  of  sugar,  cinnamon,  and 
yolks  of  eggs.  Mother  JSenta's  Cakes — an  angelic  dainty,  in 
vented  by  an  ancient  nun  of  the  Adjuda  convent ;  the  ingre 
dients,  rice-flour,  butter,  sugar,  grated  meat  of  the  cocoa-nut,  and 
orange-water.  Widows — sweet  paste,  thin  as  tissue-paper,  piled 
an  inch  thick  on  each  other  and  baked.  Then  here  are  Sighs, 
Lies,  Angels'  Hair,  Egg  Threads,  Weaning -pills,  Young  Ne 
groes'1  Feet,  and  another,  J3aba  de  Mo$a,  which  I  shall  not  trans 
late.  Rosaries  are  eight  and  ten-inch  rings  or  strings  of  pray 
ing-beads,  by  which  the  Credo  may  be  acquired  with  incrusted 
almonds,  and  Ave  Marias  counted  with  pellets  of  jujube  paste. 

A  word  on  "heavenly  bacon,"  toucinho  do  ceo — a  species  of 
light  pudding,  composed  of  almond-paste,  eggs,  sugar,  butter, 
and  a  spoonful  or  two  of  flour — because  its  name  reminds  one 
of  olden  times.  The  glorification  of  bacon  is  of  very  ancient 
date,  and  arose  partly  from  prevailing  enmity  to  Jews,  but  oft- 
ener  from  the  estimation  in  which  it  was  held.  The  most  pop 
ular  and  esteemed  of  carneous  aliments,  it  was  given  as  rewards 
for  rural,  and  particularly  for  connubial  virtues.  El  tocino  del 
Paraiso  el  casado  no  anepiso — Bacon  of  Paradise  for  the  mar 
ried  who  repent  not — is  a  medieval  proverb. 

3d.  Visited  the  Hospital  of  the  "  Third  Order  of  St.  Francis 

of  Penitence,"  in  company  with  II and  a  brother  of  the 

order. 

Every  church  here,  as  in  Lisbon,  has  affiliated  with  it  a  Lay 
Brotherhood,  whose  members  are  pledged  to  promote  the  inter 
ests  and  uphold  the  honor  of  its  patron  saint.  They  collect 
alms,  in  their  turn,  through  the  parish  (though,  of  late  years, 
this  duty  has  been,  in  a  great  measure,  transferred  to  the  sacris 
tans),  provide  candles,  see  to  the  dressings  of  the  altar  and 
images,  and  to  the  decoration  and  illumination  of  the  church 
during  festivals,  receive  contributions  on  these  occasions,  and 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  137 

issue  to  the  donors  pictures  and  medals.  They  provide  angels 
for  processions,  walk  in  official  costumes,  and  endeavor  to  rival 
other  "  Irmandades"  in  these  spectacles.  Through  a  board  of 
managers  they  direct  all  fiscal  and  secular  affairs. 

Every  brotherhood  is  a  mutual  benefit  society,  resembling 
somewhat  a  modern  Odd  Fellow's  association.  From  the 
"Rules  of  the  Order  of  St.  Francis"  (a  pamphlet  now  before 
me),  it  appears  that  any  respectable  white  Catholic  can  be  ad 
mitted.  If  under  thirty,  the  initiation  fee  is  $25 ;  if  over  forty, 
$80.  No  annual  dues  nor  any  subsequent  demand  is  made  : 
but  "  he  who  enters  into  the  service  of  God  and  of  our  father, 
holy  Francis,  must  concur  with  all  his  power  to  the  augmenta 
tion  and  splendor  of  the  order."  Initiation  takes  place  in  tho 
chapel,  the  altar  is  lit  up,  the  candidate  kneels  before  the  offici 
ating  padre,  while  the  image  of  the  founder  and  the  brethren 
look  reverently  on. 

Independent  of  its  religious  character,  this  institution  is  a  no 
ble  one.  It  annually  distributes  from  fifteen  to  twenty  thou 
sand  milreis  to  decayed  and  distressed  families  of  its  members. 
To  give  so  much  implies  that  its  funds  are  large.  It  owns  con 
siderable  real  estate  in  the  city,  and  also  in  the  country.  Nu 
merous  legacies  have  been  left  it.  Rich  merchants  and  others  be 
come  members  with  the  view  of  adding  to  its  funds.  Some  of 
the  wealthy  men  of  Rio  joined  it  in  early  life  when  poor  clerks. 
When  a  member  is  sick,  he  can  enter  the  hospital  of  the  order, 
or  be  attended  at  home,  and  when  he  dies  his  brethren  bury 
him. 

The  hospital  is  a  spacious  and  pleasantly-located  structure, 
near  the  monastery  of  St.  Anthony,  to  which  it  is  in  some  way 
allied,  for  the  abbot  is  ex  officio  patron,  and  draws  a  stipend 
from  its  funds.  Three  stories  high,  the  lowest  is,  with  the  ex 
ception  of  four  small  and  strong  rooms  for  maniacs,  devoted  to 
lumber  and  storage,  being  deemed,  as  all  ground  floors  are,  too 
damp  to  be  healthy.  The  second  is  occupied  by  the  sick  and 
their  attendants.  The  ward  contains  over  twenty  curtained 
beds,  with  a  table,  chair,  and  writing  materials  to  each.  A  neat 
private  bed-room,  and  an  airy  sitting  one,  await  the  convalescent. 
The  physician  came  in,  and,  besides  the  "  Rules,"  gave  some 
interesting  facts.  None  but  brothers  of  the  order  are  admitted. 


138  SKETCHES   OF 

There  are  fifty-three  individuals  at  present  in  the  institution,  in 
cluding  officers.  Of  the  patients,  nineteen  have  ordinary  com 
plaints,  and  two  are  insane.  Of  the  latter  class,  twelve  are  ad 
mitted  on  an  average  each  year,  and  the  terms  of  confinement 
vary  from  four  to  sixteen  days. 

The  17th  of  September  is  the  anniversary  of  the  order,  "  being 
the  day  on  which  the  wounds  of  Christ  were  impressed  on  the 
body  of  our  holy  patriarch."  The  election  of  the  board  is  to 
open  with  the  vesper  of  the  "  Solemnidade  das  chagas  de  N.  S. 
Padre,"  and  invocations  are  to  be  addressed  "to  the  Holy  Spir 
it,  our  Lady,  and  our  Father  Saint  Francis." 

This  Francis,  founder  of  one  of  the  four  companies  of  Begging 
Friars,  was  an  Italian  devotee  of  the  twelfth  century.  The  son 
of  a  respectable  merchant,  he,  to  the  distress  of  his  parents,  gave 
himself  up  to  the  severest  austerities,  excited  by  ambition  or 
religious  phrensy.  His  townsmen  considered  him  hopelessly  in 
sane.  His  father,  anxious  to  cure  him,  induced  the  bishop  to 
order  him  to  give  up  all  claims  to  the  paternal  estate.  Nothing 
loth,  he  went  farther,  and  instantly  stripped  himself  completely 
naked,  and  offered  his  garments,  including  his  shirt.  In  one  of 
his  rhapsodies  he  had  an  interview  with  a  seraph,  and  thence 
his  followers  assumed  the  title  of  "the  Seraphic  Order." 

On  the  upper  floor  are  the  store-rooms,  pantry,  kitchen,  and 
apartments  for  the  menials.  In  the  garden,  a  pleasant  arbor, 
perpetual  shrubbery  and  flowers,  solicit  the  convalescent  to  walk 
and  rest.  Water  spouts  from  a  brazen  face  into  a  stone  cis 
tern  ;  and  in  a  wooden  one  an  electric  eel,  from  Para,  was  slow 
ly  moving.  Two  feet  long,  its  head  is  two  and  a  half  inches 
over,  and  its  body  proportionally  thick.  Two  small  eyes,  like 
dots,  appear  on  its  head.  On  first  touching  it  I  felt  nothing, 
but  attempting  to  grasp  it  I  received  a  smart  shock,  and  an 
other  on  touching  it  with  a  pencil-case.  Most  of  the  water  was 
drawn  out,  when  it  was  difficult  to  awaken  its  anger ;  the  dis 
charges  were  feeble ;  and  when  the  whole  was  let  out,  it  gave  no 
proof  of  electrical  power. 

Females,  or  "  Sisters  of  the  Order,  "are  admitted  on  payment 
of  the  same  initiation  fees  as  men.  They  are  not  received  into 
the  hospital,  but,  when  poor  or  sick,  are  provided  for  and  attend 
ed  at  their  homes. 


LIFE  IN   BRAZIL.  139 

4M.  Confined  within  doors,  I  was  amused  with  some  cur 
rent  philosophy  respecting  the  sex,  and  the  influence  of  natal 
months.  New  to  me,  it  may  be  so  to  the  reader.  Females  born 
in  March  are  commonly  inquisitive;  those  who  come  crying 
into  the  world  in  April,  in  after  life  shed  many  tears  ;  while  such 
as  postpone  their  appearance  till  May  are  oftener  happy  than 
sad.  Those  whom  June  brings  forth  have  an  awkward  gait, 
and  the  children  of  July  take  long  strides.  The  daughters  of 
August  turn  out  chatterers,  and  to  those  who  first  open  their 
eyes  on  earth  in  September,  the  proverbial  rebuke  is  commonly 
applicable — "More  respect,  if  you  please,  and  less  familiarity." 
Although  science  may  not  yet  be  sufficiently  advanced  to  solve 
these  problems,  there  is  little  difficulty  in  the  way  of  explaining 
another :  In  February,  women  talk  less  than  in  any  other  month. 

Divination  is  as  much  in  vogue  here  as  it  was  in  Europe  cen 
turies  ago,  especially  on  St.  John's  eve ;  but  as  it  is  after  old 
formulas,  examples  are  not  worth  quoting. 

A  love  of  humor  is  a  part  of  our  nature,  and  is  amusingly  ex 
emplified  in  the  universality  of  national  and  provincial  nick 
names.  Unlike  personal  burlesque,  there  is  nothing  in  them  to 
wound  individual  sensibilities.  The  people  of  equatorial  Brazil 
are  named  Cocoas,  from  their  fondness  for  the  fruit,  and  eating  it 
with  every  dish.  The  provincials  of  Bahia  and  Pernambuco  are, 
however,  more  generally  known  as  Manoel  Cocoas,  the  etymology 
of  which  is  thus  given :  It  was  formerly,  and  still  is  the  custom, 
in  making  devices,  settling  dowries,  &c.,  to  fix  the  amounts  in 
cocoa-trees,  whose  current  value  was  as  well  understood  as  coin 
itself.  A  southern  native  married  the  daughter  of  a  wealthy 
Bahian,  who  promised  him  twenty  thousand  dollars  for  a  mar 
riage  portion.  The  young  husband  reminded  him  of  this. 
"  True,"  said  he ;  "  go  into  the  plantation,  and  take  the  amount 
in  cocoa-trees." 

"  Cocoa-trees !  Why,  sir,  I  don't  want  cocoas,  but  what  you 
promised — dollars. " 

"  Very  well ;  every  tree  is  worth  half  a  dollar ;  go  and  select 
forty  thousand;  they  are  the  dollars  I  deal  in,  and  they  are 
worth  more  than  all  the  dirty  silver  ones  you  ever  saw,  or  will 
see." 

From  the  prenomen  and  prudence  of  this  dealer  in  nature's 


140  SKETCHES    OF 

specie,  his  countrymen  are  named  Manoel  Cocoas.  It  was  hear 
ing  the  term  applied  repeatedly  that  led  me  to  ask  for  the  ex 
planation. 

As  with  cocoas  at  the  north,  so  it  is  with  coffee-trees  here. 
A  planter  promises  to  a  son  or  daughter  a  certain  number  of 
cruzados,  and  they  take  them  out  in  plants ;  the  current  value 
of  each  being  a  cruzado,  or  twenty  cents.  When  an  estate  i? 
sold,  its  trees  are  reckoned  as  so  many  cruzados  certain. 

The  Portuguese,  who  arc  said  to  have  little  affinity  for  soaj> 
and  water,  call  the  citizens  of  the  capital  "  Cariocas"  and 
"BuckBi"  because  of  their  fondness  for  ablutions.  This  the 
Fluminenses  admit,  and  in  reply  concede  that  their  Lusitaniai: 
brethren  do  wash  themselves  once  a  year — on  St.  John's  eve. 
the  celebration  of  which  is  preceded  by  washing  or  bathing. 

The  people  of  the  Province  of  Rio  de  Janeiro  are  generally 
known  as  "Bananas^"  because,  say  the  Paulistas  and  others. 
they  are  soft  and  lazy.  The  stem  of  the  banana  never  hard 
ens  into  wood.  The  hale  and  active  Rio  Grandees  call  them 
"  Women."  Weak  and  sickly  young  people  are  Bananas.  Fops, 
who  must  have  slaves  to  do  every  thing  for  them,  even  to  the 
drawing  on  of  their  stockings,  are  thus  designated.  A  young 
lady,  complaining  of  being  unwell  to  an  intimate,  is  often  saluted 
with,  "  Oh  !  you're  a  Banana."  But  the  appellation,  applied  se 
riously,  is  a  gross  insult. 

Many  persons  in  Rio  are  natives  of  Gibraltar,  descendants  of 
Portuguese  settled  there.  They  are  named  "Itock  /Scorpions," 
from  the  numbers  of  those  reptiles  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
fortress.  (The  English  at  the  Rock  baptize  the  Portuguese 
"jSalctds,"  and  these,  in  return,  christen  their  godfathers  "Her 
rings  /"  both  terms  from  favorite  relishes  of  the  respective  par 
ties.) 

Orange-trees  are  of  rapid  growth ;  hence,  when  a  person  be 
comes  suddenly  rich  or  prosperous,  "he's  an  orange-tree." 

Meeting  one  day  a  lady,  handsome  and  (as  nearly  all  are)  em- 
hon/point,  with  a  small,  meagre  man,  my  companion,  who  knew 
both,  remarked,  "  What  a  shame  for  such  a  woman  to  be  mar 
ried  to  that  pilchard  !" 

The  inhabitants  oKjlip  Grande^-the  most  southern  province, 
bordering  on  Paraguay  —  are  Jsifown  as  "  Guascas"  from  the 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL  14J 

thongs  or  narrow  strips  of  hide  they  carry  in  their  hands.  The 
onds  of  the  lasso,  by  which  they  take  wild  cattle,  consist  of  guas- 
ca  strips.  A  spirited  race,  they  resent  affronts  by  lashing  the 
shoulders  of  offenders.  Brave,  hardy,  and  imbued  with  Repub 
lican  principles,  they  have  been  in  rebellion  eleven  years,  and 
were  but  recently  induced  to  lay  down  their  arms.  Should 
they  continue  an  integral  branch  of  the  empire,  they  will  prob 
ably  exercise  a  controlling  influence  in  its  administration. 

Ilio  Grande  belles  are  expert  horsewomen.  Except  in  cities, 
they  use  no  side-saddles,  but  ride  as  the  sex  still  rides  in  Asia, 
and  as  once  all  rode  in  Europe.  Twenty  years  ago  it  was  com 
mon  for  officers'  wives  to  accompany  the  troops  on  horseback. 
They  sported  boots,  spurs,  and  masculine  hats,  and  when  in 
towns  or  at  parades,  mounted  military  caps  and  epaulettes,  to 
denote  the  rank  of  their  husbands,  and  consequently  their  own. 
Old  Senhora  P—  —  made  a  two  years'*  campaign  thus  equipped 
with  a  regiment  her  husband  commanded.  She  says  the  ladies 
of  St.  Paulo  and  Minas  provinces  followed  the  same  custom,  as 
well  as  her  countrywomen  of  Rio  Grande.  My  aged  friend  re 
tains  other  camp  accomplishments ;  oftener  than  once  she  has 
sent,  or  rather  told  Pompey  to  go  to  what  the  Portuguese  call 
the  Englishman's  heaven — a  place  antipodal  to  the  abode  of  the 
righteous. 

6th.  The  disappearance,  sudden  and  inexplicable,  of  a  young 
lady  espoused,  with  her  parent's  consent,  to  a  merchant  of  her 
own  age,  has  for  the  past  fortnight  caused  some  excitement. 
The  police  were  employed,  but  neither  they  nor  the  friends  of 
the  afflicted  family  could  discover  a  clew  to  her  fate.  Three 
days  ago  her  distracted  father  attempted  suicide.  Last  evening 
information  reached  the  city  verifying  the  worst  of  fears.  The 
late  priest  of  the  Gloria  church,  having  received  an  appointment 
in  another  province,  has  been  met  on  his  way  thither,  and  with 
him  the  ruined  girl. 

I  did  not  intend  to  say  a  word  on  the  morals  of  the  priests, 
but  hearing  so  much  as  I  do  daily,  it  is  impossible  to  refrain. 
The  depth  of  their  pollution  I  should  not  have  suspected,  nor 
would  any  stranger,  unless  in  a  similar  position  with  myself  to 
have  his  eyes  opened.  The  following  language  of  an  enlighten 
ed  native  is  not  introduced  to  denounce  individuals,  but  the 


142  SKETCHES   OF 

system  that  makes  them  what  they  are.  "  The  priesthood  of 
this  country  is  superlatively  corrupt.  It  is  impossible  for  men 
to  be  worse,  or  to  imagine  men  worse.  In  the  churches  they 
appear  respectable  and  devout,  but  their  secret  crimes  have  made 
this  city  a  Sodom ;  there  are,  of  course,  honorable  exceptions, 
but  they  are  very  few."  An  old  inhabitant  of  Rio,  who  has 
neither  inducement  nor  disposition  to  misrepresent  the  country 
or  its  morals,  added,  "  Every  word  is  true,  and  much  more  than 
you  can  well  conceive."  He  continued,  "  With  country  priests 
concubinage  is  universal,  and,  if  possible,  they  are  worse  than 
the  *  sacred  crowns'  of  the  city!* 

Another,  whose  authority  would  not  be  questioned  if  it  were 
prudent  to  give  his  name,  observes,  "  They  are  assuredly  the 
most  licentious  and  profligate  part  of  the  community.  The  ex 
ceptions  are  rare  indeed.  Celibacy  being  one  of  their  dogmas, 
you  will  find  nearly  the  whole  with  families ;  and  it  is  a  sub 
stantial  fact,  which  admits  of  no  argument,  that  in  their  amour? 
they  are  ever  partial  to  women  of  color — blacks  or  mulattoes." 

Within  a  few  days,  a  gentleman  holding  office  under  govern 
ment  was  requested  to  give  away  a  young  couple  about  to  be 
married.  On  returning  from  the  church,  he  said,  in  reply  to  in 
quiries,  "All  I  know  about  the  bride  and  bridegroom  is,  they 
are  both  the  offspring  of  priests ;"  the  latter  being,  in  fact,  a 
son  of  the  Vicar  of  San  Jose,  who  is  known  to  have  a  large  fam 
ily,  and  who,  to  his  credit,  does  not  disown  it.  He  takes  no 
offense  when  asked  how  his  niece  and  her  children  are. 

Within  the  last  month  another  priest  sent  out  invitations  to 
friends  to  attend  the  funeral  of  a  young  man  who  he  openly 
avowed  was  his  son.  A  little  noise  arose,  but  it  soon  blew 
over. 

St.  Anthony's  Convent  was  the  scene  of  a  direful  tragedy.  A 
young  woman  of  doubtful  reputation  was  visited  by  several  of 
the  monks,  and  subsequently  introduced  into  the  monastery  in 
one  of  their  dresses.  After  some  days  the  affair  became  pub 
lic  ;  the  police  interfered,  and  found  her  in  one  of  the  cells  in  a 
dying  condition.  It  is  not  a  year  since  this  transpired. 

A  current  story  respecting  a  sick  lady  and  one  of  the  Capu- 

*  This  term,  derived  from  the  tonsure,  is  applied  in  derision  to  all  priests  and 
friars. 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  143 

chins,  recently  brought  over  by  the  empress,  I  shall  not  relate. 
The  villain  barely  escaped  the  fatal  vengeance  of  her  son. 

Women  constitute  the  chief  part  of  the  Church's  charge,  and 
they  are  taught  to  believe,  and  do  believe,  that  the  crimes  of  a 
priest  do  not  affect  his  efficiency  as  one,  nor  the  duty  of  confess 
ing  to  him.  I  have  heard  several  native  ladies  maintain  this. 

Pedro  I.  cared  little  for  monks.  He  made  inroads  into  their 
privileges,  and  under  him  a  law  was  passed  forbidding  any  more 
novices  to  enter  the  monasteries.  His  son,  brought  up  by  monks, 
has  sanctioned  its  violation,  as  we  have  seen  in  the  youths  at 
San  Bento's. 

In  all  sects  and  countries  immoral  clergymen  are  found,  but 
in  Brazil  evils  consequent  on  the  celibacy  of  the  priesthood  are 
admitted  to  be  general,  and  of  the  most  revolting  character.  It 
is  believed  that  the  government  will  be  compelled  eventually  to 
carry  out  the  intentions  of  the  late  regent  Feijao — suppress  ev 
ery  convent,  and  adopt  the  system  of  the  Greek  Church  in  re 
quiring  priests,  other  than  bishops,  to  marry. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Visit  to  Christoval :  native  Sheep.— Palace  of  a  Peddler.— Imperial  Quinta.— Ra 
pacity  of  the  old  Queen. — Miguel. — A  Viscount  and  his  strange  Employment.— 
Emperor's  Apartments. — Objects  of  Natural  History. — Collection  of  Coins.— 
Peruvian,Egyptian,  and  Roman  Antiquities. — Laboratory. — Theatre,  and  Garden 

March  1.  This  morning  a  carro  drew  up  at  the  door,  and  in 
a  few  moments  Senors  R ,  B ,  and  myself  were  whirl 
ing  down  the  Cattete  on  a  visit  to  the  countiy  palace.  Soon 
we  were  skirting  the  Bay  along  the  Praya  da  Gloria ;  then,  in 
clining  to  the  left,  passed  through  Rua  das  Mangueiras  (street 
of  leather  pipes),  leaving  the  roaring  surf  on  the  opposite  hand  : 
dashed  under  the  aqueduct  arches  into  Mata-cavallos,  or  horse- 
killing  avenue  ;  turned  again  into  another,  named  after  sick  peo 
ple  (Rua  dos  Invalidos),  which  terminated  at  a  corner  of  the 
Campo,  whose  area  was  alive  with  lavandeiras.  Rattling  through 
Mata-porcos  (pig-killing  street),  we  came  to  a  point  where  the 
road  merged  into  two  others,  one  leading  to  the  imperial  Quinta. 

Groups  of  mules,  with  their  skin-covered  panniers  filled  witli 


144  SKETCHES    OF 

charcoal,  vegetables,  and  other  matters  for  city  consumption, 
every  now  and  then  passed  by ;  also  a  flock  of  sheep,  long- 
necked,  with  little  wool,  and  that  hairy ;  but  most  observable 
was  the  variety  of  their  colors,  black,  white,  brown,  bay,  etc., 
and  spotted  just  as  oxen  often  are  with  us.  Handsome  cottages 
and  country-seats  occurred :  one,  a  perfect  palace,  belonging  to 
a  widow  whose  husband  began  life  by  peddling  a  few  pieces  of 
nankeen,  and  at  whose  death  she  received,  as  her  share  of  the 
estate,  six  hundred  thousand  dollars  in  cash.  Some  half  a  mile 
off  arose  the  Lazaretto,  with  its  cupola  and  white  glistening 
walls,  on  an  eminence  close  to  and  overlooking  the  Bay. 

We  now  were  trotting  along  a  road  bordered  with  thorn  and 
other  living  fences,  paved,  and  planted  with  lamp-posts,  so  ex 
actly  like  suburban  streets  we  had  come  through  that  I  was 
not  aware  of  being  on  the  emperor's  grounds  till  the  palace  it 
self  rose  in  sight.  An  hour's  ride  brought  us  to  it.  Its  loca 
tion  is  delightfully  romantic,  on  an  elevated  plateau.  A  square 
building  of  three  stories  constitutes  its  left  wing  and  prominent 
feature  ;  the  other  wing  is  a  story  lower.  Its  composite  char 
acter  is  due  to  its  origin.  The  old  king,  in  his  country  drives, 
took  a  liking  to  the  place,  and  was  once  or  twice  entertained  by 
its  owner,  who  at  length,  in  a  fit  of  enthusiasm  or  from  some 
other  impulse,  begged  his  acceptance  of  it.  Whether  this  sac 
rifice  to  the  first  anointed  head  seen  in  the  country — admitted 
on  all  hands  an  unusually  thick  one  —  was  ever  suitably  ac 
knowledged,  my  informants  could  not  say ;  but  instances  are  cur 
rent  of  members  of  the  family  sending  messages  to  Brazilian 
Naboths,  and  following  them  up  with  acts  much  in  the  manner 
of  Aliah  and  his  lady.  Among  enlightened  natives,  the  old 
queen,  sister  to  that  incarnation  of  royalty,  Ferdinand  VII. ,  is 
spoken  of  as  a  Jezebel  in  no  wise  behind  her  Jewish  prototype.* 

*  Of  Portuguese  scions  of  royalty,  Miguel,  the  brother  of  Pedro  I.  and  uncle  to 
the  present  emperor,  equals  any  of  the  anointed  carnivora  of  ancient  or  modern 
times.  Many  are  the  anecdotes  current  of  him.  He  used  to  go  to  the  market 
with  profligate  associates,  and,  among  other  tricks,  snatch  a  sucking  pig,  swing  it 
aloft  in  the  air,  and  receive  it  on  his  sword's  point.  To  vary  the  diversion,  his 
companions  would  throw  up  the  squeaking  victims  that  his  highness  might  with 
less  exertion  flesh  his  weapon  in  them.  Such  was  the  way  he  gratified  his  taste 
for  blood  here  before  he  caused  so  much  to  flow  in  Portugal.  If  the  jure  divino 
rulers  of  our  earth  do  not  lap  blood,  most  of  them  sport  with  it 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  145 

Ascending  a  flight  of  stairs,  we  found  ourselves  on  a  corridor 
running  along  the  four  sides  of  an  open  area,  and  communicat 
ing  with  the  principal  rooms  of  the  edifice.  The  housekeeper, 
an  old  lady  busy  with  her  needle,  took  our  cards  to  a  gentle 
man  who  was  walking  to  and  fro  on  the  corridor  with  a  child 
in  his  arms.  He  came  directly  to  us.  This  was  a  viscount. 
Left  in  charge  of  the  infant  prince  during  the  absence  of  its  pa 
rents  in  Rio  Grande,  he  has  been  isolated  here  for  several 
months.  He  spoke  English  well,  had  traveled  in  Europe,  and 
was  alive  to  "the  wonderful  progress"  (his  own  words)  of  the 
people  of  the  United  States  in  national  greatness.  He  inquired 
respecting  the  connection  of  the  great  lakes  by  canals,  of  the 
states  by  rail-roads,  and  telegraphs,  and  rather  surprised  me  by 
asking  the  price  of  labor.  When  told  that  ordinary  mechanics 
had  from  $1  50  to  $2  50  a  day,  and  that  in  some  branches  from 
$3  to  $4  were  earned,  he  opened  his  eyes — wages  of  Brazilian 
artisans  and  salaries  of  government  officers  being  very  low.  I 
explained  that  what  he  deemed  extraordinary  wages  was  an  el 
ement  of  American  prosperity,  inasmuch  as  it  awakened  and 
stimulated  thousands  of  keen  intellects  to  the  invention  of  labor- 
saving  machinery,  whereas,  in  countries  where  labor  costs  al 
most  nothing,  there  can  be  but  little  inducement  to  make  it  cost 
less.  On  giving  us  in  charge  of  an  attendant,  he  observed  that 
Nature  had  done  every  thing  for  Brazil,  but  as  yet  man  had 
done  next  to  nothing. 

In  the  prime  and  vigor  of  life,  able  and  accomplished,  I  could 
not  but  pity  him  as  he  left  us  with  his  charge  in  his  arms.  And 
is  it  for  employments  like  that-,  I  thought,  for  which  such  a  man 
was  made?  Instead  of  being  the  head  of  a  province,  or,  as  chief 
magistrate  of  the  wThole,  unfolding  the  resources  of  the  country, 
and  identifying  himself  with  the  progressive  influences  of  the 
age,  to  be  acting  as  dry-nurse  to  another  one's  baby !  But  such 
is  the  philosophy  of  monarchy,  and  men  here,  as  in  Europe,  in 
thus  unsexing  themselves,  do  not  dream  that  they  surpass  Al- 
cides  when  spinning  flax  among  Omphale's  maids. 

Our  cicerone  led  us  into  a  passage  lined  with  pictures  of  Ma 
donnas,  friars,  and  ghastly  saints,  mixed  in  with  modern  heroes 
and  Napoleon's  battle-scenes.  A  small  group  of  Indians  by  a 
native  artist  was,  in  my  view,  worth  all  the  rest.  The  floors  of 

K 


146  SKETCHES   OF 

a  suit  of  three  principal  rooms  are  laid  in  native  woods,  work 
ed  into  coarse  mosaics — satin  and  rose  woods  preponderate. 
In  one  apartment  is  a  large  painting  of  the  Portuguese  first 
landing  on  the  coast.  A  lady  presenting  her  two  sons  to  Al- 
phonse,  an  incident  well  known  in  Lusitanian  history,  is  the 
subject  of  another.  The  conductor  called  my  attention  to  a 
French  "  Pendule  Mechanique,"  and,  winding  up  the  spring,  a 
number  of  minikin  figures  danced,  to  his  great  admiration.  The 
side-table  on  which  the  toy  stood  possessed  greater  interest. 
It  was  on  it  that  Pedro  I.,  on  the  17th  of  April,  1831,  signed 
his  abdication.  In  consequence  of  his  ideas  of  divine  rights, 
power  was  taken  from  him,  and  he  was  forced  to  leave  the 
country — a  remarkable  example,  considering  where  it  happened, 
of  the  progress  of  the  doctrine  of  popular  rights. 

The  third  apartment  was  the  imperial  bed-room,  fitted  up,  like 
the  others,  with  French  furniture.  A  native  feature  consists  of 
two  jaguar  skins  spread  on  the  floor,  the  tails,  legs,  feet,  and 
claws  expanded,  and  the  heads  perfect  and  stuffed  to  resemble 
life.  These  face  the  bedstead  —  guardians  of  its  occupants. 
This  delightful  dormitory  is  thirty  feet  above  the  ground,  while 
its  folding  windows  open  upon  forests,  groves,  and  gardens  in 
perpetual  bloom. 

The  "  Throne-room"  is  a  large  and  dark  one,  and  only  used 
by  candlelight.  Brazilians  are  tenacious  of  the  solemn  fooleries 
of  the  Portuguese  and  other  European  court  ceremonies,  which 
it  is  hardly  possible  to  witness  without  feelings  of  contempt  for 
the  actors ;  and  a  deeper  emotion  on  beholding  American  min 
isters  paying  a  humiliating  homage  to  monarchy,  which  the  re 
publics  of  Greece  would  not  allow  their  embassadors,  even  at 
ihe  court  of  Persia,  to  offer.  Commodore  Wilkes,  when  here, 
on  his  passage  out,  saw  but  a  little,  yet  sufficient  to  excite  his 
disgust. 

In  the  "  Guard-room,"  a  fluted  column,  surmounted  by  a  wiv- 
ern,  occupies  the  centre,  and  round  it  swords  and  halberts  are 
tastefully  arranged.  Several  statues  stand  about :  Diana,  Po 
mona,  a  Medicean  Venus,  and  another  leaving  the  bath.  Here 
are  also  two  spirited  statues,  of  polished  marble,  of  Egyptian  di 
vinities,  of  the  human  size.  The  next  door  opened  into  the 
chapel,  a  shabby  affair,  but  soon  to  be  superseded  by  a  new  one. 


LIFE   IN    BRAZIL. 


147 


"  Our  Lady  of  Pains"  stands  on  the  altar,  and  St.  Anthony,  with 
the  baby,  near  her.  Two  large  paintings  hang  on  the  walls : 
one,  St.  Peter  of  Alcantara,  the  patron  of  Portugal ;  the  other,  a 
monk  in  an  excruciating  state  of  mortification — more  pallid  and 
ghastly  than  death  itself. 

At  length  we  came  to  a  place  devoted  to  science,  antiquities, 
mineralogy,  etc.  Part  of  the  room  is  occupied  with  objects  of 
Natural  History,  among  which  humming-birds  are  conspicuous, 
the  cases  containing  a  male  and  female  specimen  of  every  known 
variety. 

Another  department  is  exceedingly  interesting  in  medals  and 
coins :  money  current  in  the  days  of  Socrates,  Plato,  Themis- 
tocles,  Aristides,  Alexander,  Hannibal ;  coins  of  Rhodes,  Hera- 
clea,  Achaia,  Ithaca,  Home,  Thrace,  Laconia,  Macedon,  Syra 
cuse,  Tarentum,  etc.,  serving  to  call  vividly  before  the  mind  the 
great  acts  and  actors  of  antiquity,  through  whose  hands  some  of 
these  very  pieces  may  have  passed. 

Native  minerals  and  metals  are  largely  represented  and  well 
classified.  In  one  case  was  huddled  a  large  number  of  ancient 
moringues,  chiefly  Peruvian.  Most  of  them  were  ornamented  in 
colors  or  relief.  See  specimens  in  the  annexed  group. 


ANCIENT   PERUVIAN    POTTERY. 


The  first  figure  at  the  left,  on  the  upper  row,  is  a  fac-simile 
of  one  recently  disinterred  and  presented  to  the  Hon.  H.  A. 
Wise.  In  the  two  spouts,  one  through  which  to  fill  it  and  the 
other  to  drink  from,  it  resembles  the  "  Pitcher  of  Brazil,"  whicli 
has  been  dug  up,  in  one  shape  or  another,  in  most  parts  of  South 
America.  Similarly-formed  vases  have  also  been  found  in  the 
catacombs  of  Rome.  The  next  vase,  if  placed  in  a  collection 


148 


SKETCHES    OF 


of  Egyptian  relics,  would  "be  received  as  a  genuine  canopus,  so 
striking  is  its  resemblance  to  some  Pharaonic  vessels.  The 
third  is  a  long-necked  bottle,  moulded  at  opposite  sides  into 
protruding  fish-heads.  The  fourth  is  in  the  form  of  a  spheroid, 
with  the  neck  united  to  it  by  two  curved  tubes  ;  a  feature  com 
mon  in  old  water-flasks  of  Meridional  America.  The  fifth  is 
another,  elaborately  decorated  with  colors.  Of  the  second  row, 
the  first  is  very  like  two  antique  Bolivian  bottles  engraved  in 
LHomme  Americain,  Paris,  1839.  Of  the  two  next,  one  is 
figured  after  a  bird ;  the  other,  after  a  man  in  a  sitting  or  bent 
position.  The  last  is  a  neat  bottle  with  loops  for  a  cord  to 
suspend  it.  A  lizard  has  been  painted  on  it  between  two  bands 
— (omitted  by  the  engraver). 

On  a  window-sill  were  antiques  from  Herculaneum  and  Pom 
peii,  sent  over  with  the  empress  as  a  present  from  her  brother, 
Bomba  of  Naples.  All  are  covered  with  a  hard  green  crust,  of 
which  a  little  is  scaled  off  on  one  vase,  showing  the  metal  un 
derneath  as  smooth  and  polished  as  a  modern  tea-urn  just  fin 
ished. 

At  the  first  glance  of  Fig.  k  I  took  it  for  the  one  engraved  in 

the  work  on  Pompeii  in  the  Libra 
ry  of  Entertaining  Knowledge ;  but 
in  design  and  ornament  it  is  far  in 
ferior  to  that.  Of  very  plain  pre 
tensions,  it  probably  belonged  to 
the  commonest  of  metallic  lamp- 
stands.  About  five  feet  high,  the 
shaft  might  be  taken  for  an  old  inch 
copper  bolt.  Its  lower  end  is  se 
cured  into  a  socket  in  the  tripod  by 
an  iron  wedge-key.  Part  of  the 
socket  next  to  the  wide  end  of  the 
key  is  gone,  having  evidently  been 
burst  off  by  driving  in  the  latter 
too  hard.  The  whole  weighs  not 
less  than  thirty  pounds,  being  solid 
throughout,  but  not  of  solid  bronze  ;  for,  on  turning  up  the  feet, 
I  found  solder  (lead  and  tin)  had  been  run  into  the  centre  of 
each.  Whether  this  had  relation  only  to  the  better  security  of 


LIFE    IN    BRAZIL  149 

the  shaft  to  the  tripod,  and  whether  the  former,  like  the  latter, 
was  cast  hollow,  I  had  no  means  to  determine. 

The  small  lamp  has  nothing  to  distinguish  it  either  in  shape, 
size,  or  ornament.  Of  very  thin  metal,  I  judged  it  to  have  been 
struck  up  by  dies,  and  the  top  soldered  on. 

The  largest  of  the  vases,  c,  is  of  the  capacity  of  about  four 
gallons,  as  near  as  we  could  judge  ;  £,  two  gallons  ;  d,  one ;  e, 
three  pints  ;  and  y,  a  quart.  These  are  all  fine  specimens  of  an 
cient  coppersmiths'  work.  The  handles  generally  are  orna 
mented.  The  one  belonging  to  Fig.  g  is  broken  off,  showing 
an  imperfection  in  the  soldering.  There  are  two  vase's  similar 
to  d.  On  taking  up  Fig.  a  I  was  confident  of  having  before 
seen  its  portrait,  but  I  was  mistaken.  The  one  resembling  it 
in  its  general  outline,  in  the  second  volume  on  Pompeii,  is  elab 
orately  enriched  with  ornament,  whereas  this  is  wholly  destitute 
in  that  respect.  It  will  hold  about  a  gallon.  There  is  another, 
identical  in  shape  with  it,  in  the  Collection  of  Antiquities  by 
Count  Caylus,  of  a  capacity  less  than  a  pint.  The  shape  seems 
to  have  been  common.  The  skillet,  A,  lias  been  cast  complete 
in  one  piece.  It  resembles,  in  that  respect,  our  light  hollow- 
ware,  but  excels  it  in  the  distribution  of  its  metal.  While  the 
handle  is  just  stout  enough,  the  sides,  which  are  little  subject  to 
wear  by  fire  or  friction,  are  quite  thin,  and  the  bottom,  which 
has  every  thing  to  endure,  is  remarkably  thick.  But,  not  to 
consume  material  unnecessarily,  a  series  of  grooves,  close  to  each 
other,  have  been  cut  out  by  a  lathe  on  the  underside.  They 
are  nearly  one  eighth  of  an  inch  deep,  of  the  same  width,  about 
an  equal  distance  apart,  and  extend  from  the  centre  to  near  the 
circumference.  Were  our  copper  kettles  and  stewpans  made 
thus,  they  would  last  almost  forever. 

The  same  feature  is  observable  in  the  bottoms  of  the  other 
vessels ;  hence  it  was  not  confined  to  those  for  heating  liquids. 
The  grooves  are  cut  square  down,  leaving  the  edges  and  angles 
sharp,  as  if  .the  tool  had  just  been  withdrawn.  The  rings  left 
between  the  grooves  are  in  some  instances  worked  into  ovolos 
and  astragals. 

Besides  the  skillet  figured,  there  is  a  smaller  one,  made  as 
our  copper  saucepans  are,  and,  like  one  of  them  worn  out — its 
bottom  is  half  separated  from  the  sides. 


150  SKETCHES    OF 

The  shell-formed  scoop  or  mould,  Fig.  i,  is  of  very  thin  met 
al,  and  of  uniform  thickness.  It  has  been  struck  up — -just  as 
such  things  are  with  us,  out  of  sheet  brass  and  tin  plate. 

Our  attendant,  who  is  a  Portuguese,  observed  that  Figs.  &,  c, 
and  d  were  understood  to  be  Koman  measures,  adding  that  they 
were  very  like  those  used  in  Portugal.  On  returning  to  the 
city,  I  had  an  opportunity  of  verifying  this  in  the  examination 
of  an  official  "  almude"  the  standard  measure  for  liquids,  im 
ported  from  Lisbon  for  the  government.  It  is  represented  at/". 
Its  capacity  is  four  and  a  quarter  gallons.  "  Twenty-six  al- 
mudes  make  a  pipe."  By  the  almude  the  Portuguese  sell  all 
their  wines.  Identical  in  shape,  it  has  a  feature  not  found  in 
those  ancient  vessels — a  small  hole  in  the  side,  near  the  brim,  to 
mark  the  full  measure — a  device  which  has  this  advantage :  as 
wine  froths  much  in  decanting,  the  surface  of  the  liquid  beneath 
is  at  once  ascertained  when  risen  to  its  proper  elevation.  The 
disposition  of  the  handles  in  so  large  a  vessel  is  a  farther  im 
provement. 

The  Laboratory  is  a  room  set  apart  for  experiments  in  natu 
ral  philosophy  and  chemistry.  An  air-pump,  electro-magnet, 
electrical  and  other  apparatus,  were  standing  about.  Here,  much 
to  his  honor,  the  young  emperor  is  said  to  spend  considerable 
time.  He  is  fond  of  books,  and  all  admit  his  private  character 
to  be  irreproachable.  An  adjoining  room  is  fitted  up  as  a  thea 
tre  :  the  subject  of  the  drop-scene,  "  The  landing  of  the  Por 
tuguese."  To  the  astonished  natives  on  the  foreground,  a  priest 
holds  out  a  cross,  while  frowning  warriors,  with  spears  and  bat 
tle-axes,  stand  by  him — a  vivid  representation  of  the  system  of 
the  conquerors,  and  of  that  twofold  power  which  has  all  but  de 
populated  this  half  of  the  earth,  and  under  the  influence  of 
which  man  is  a  blighted  being  in  the  other  half. 

My  associates  were  fatigued  and  anxious  to  leave.  Past  din 
ner-time,  they  quoted  the  popular  hungry  apophthegm,  "An 
empty  sack  can  not  stand."  After  making  a  proper  acknowl 
edgment  to  our  obliging  cicerone,  we  descended  a  flight  of  some 
sixty  stone  steps  to  a  level  with  the  garden,  through  which  we 
passed.  Citron,  cinnamon,  and  tamarind  trees  presented  noth 
ing  remarkable  in  their  appearance,  but  some  short,  thick  boles, 
with  crowns  of  pendent  feathers,  were  interesting ;  they  were 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  151 

sago-trees.  Up  the  face  of  a  low  wall,  over  and  down  its  other 
side,  lizards,  from  three  to  eight  inches  long,  darted  quick  al 
most  as  the  lightning's  flash. 

We  passed  an  oblong  pond  or  lake — a  small  but  handsome 
sheet  of  water.  Vases  and  statues  alternate  along  its  sides. 
Near  one  end  is  a  square  cistern  in  the  ground — the  prison  of 
an  electric  eel.  On  reaching  the  opposite  end  of  the  lake,  two 
negro  women  were  knee  deep  in  it  washing,  and  within  five  feet 
of  them  two  black  men,  perfectly  nude,  engaged  in  the  same 
operation. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Poor  Anthony  robbed. — Ex  Votos. — Their  Manufacture. — Humming-bird  and  Bou 
quet. — Affronted  Image  and  wicked  Painter. — His  Punishment,  and  Process  of 
"  disaffronting"  the  Image. — Imperial  Chapel  and  its  Shrines. — Turk's  Head. — 
Barefooted  Friars. — Esta9io  de  Sa. — Slab  over  him. — Chief  of  the  Capuchins. 
Virgin's  Shoe-sole. — Architectural  Remains. — Ajuda  Convent. — Dumb  Wait 
er. — Glimpse  into  the  Interior. — Vestals. — Nuns  in  the  Ajuda,  and  their  Treat 
ment. 

March  10.  Walked  to  town  early  with  a  special  object.  In 
passing  through  Rua  dos  Invalidos,  I  hoped  to  get  a  view  of 
the  interior  of  the  little  old  church  of  Antonio  dos  Pobres,  as  it 
is  opened  in  mornings  during  Lent,  but  I  was  too  late.  Except 
his  effigies  on  his  alms-box,  I  have  not  yet  seen  this  patron  of 
mendicants.  The  founder  of  the  church  sold  all  he  had  to  build 
it,  including  his  own  children  by  his  slaves.  He  was  nick 
named  Panela,  from  having  been  a  dealer  in  crockery.  Two 
years  ago  the  church  was  robbed  of  its  plate  and  some  gems  on 
the  image.  The  witty  thief  added  sarcasm  to  sacrilege.  He 
took  from  the  head  of  Anthony  a  "  splendore,"  and  put  in  its 
place  an  old  straw  hat,  with  a  label  attached,  signifying  that 
those  who  beg  should  not  wear  jewels.  Next  morning  the  sa 
cristan  was  electrified  on  beholding  the  metamorphosis  of  the 
saint,  and  wondered  still  more  on  finding  him  perusing  a  slip 
of  paper  in  his  hands,  on  which  was  written 

Quern  he  Pobre  nao  tem  vicios  : 

a,  proverbial  sentence,  implying  that  the  indigent  have  not  the 
means  to  commit  current  follies,  and  that  their  exemplar  should 


152  SKETCHES    OF 

not  sport  silver  and  gold.  The  moral  burglar  was  not  discov 
ered. 

Passed  on  to  and  entered  the  Paula  Church,  now  undergoing 
extensive  renovations.  Surely  nothing  can  disturb  Rio  wor 
shipers  :  here  are  individuals,  male  and  female,  on  their  knees, 
praying  alongside  of  busy  masons,  carpenters,  painters,  glaziers, 
and  upholsterers,  amid  planks,  ladders,  mortar,  paints,  webs  of 
gimp,  and  I  know  not  what,  while  spectators  like  myself  lounge 
about,  and  master  tradesmen,  with  unsuppressed  voices,  give 
their  orders. 

But  none  of  these  things  brought  me  here.  I  have  been  re 
peatedly  told  that  in  every  church  more  or  less  votive  offerings 
for  miraculous  cures  are  to  be  seen,  and  as  often  I  have  replied 
that  I  could  find  none.  Last  evening  I  learned  that,  though 
formerly  suspended  about  the  altars,  they  are  now  almost  inva 
riably  confined  to  vestries  and  side  passages.  Here  is  an  inner 
door  through  which  lay  brothers  occasionally  pass  ;  let  us  cross 
its  threshold,  and  get,  if  possible,  a  glimpse  of  one  of  the  most 
singular  sights  in  ancient  temples.  A  few  steps,  and  we  are 
in  a  wide  and  high  passage.  The  walls  are  white-washed,  and 
broken  into  compartments  by  pilasters,  and  suspended  between 
these  are  the  very  things  we  are  in  search  of.  They  are  not  ex 
actly  what  I  expected,  but  who  that  has  read  of  classical  Ex 
VOTOS  would  not  be  pleased  to  look  on  modern  copies  ? 

Some  ten  feet  from  the  floor  long  strips  of  wood  extend,  and 
from  them  the  offerings  are  suspended  by  twine  and  ribbons. 
Here  are  forty-nine  votive  tablets,  each  recording  the  name  of 
the  devotee  who  dedicated  it,  the  complaint  which  had  prostrated 
him,  and' the  saint  who  had  restored  him  to  health.  They  arc 
little  painted  boards,  averaging  eight  inches  in  length  and  five 
in  width,  cut  into  eveiy  fanciful  form.  Many  have  gilt  borders, 
and  on  most  the  inscriptions  are  in  gold  letters ;  some  are  half 
of  one  color  and  half  of  another.  Taken  altogether,  the  diver 
sity  of  tints  reminds  one  of  calico  manufacturers'  pattern  cards. 
A  few  appear  of  recent  date,  but  the  greater  part  are  old.  On 
some  a  face  is  drawn,  to  indicate  the  location  of  the  disease.  Six 
teen  have  bed-chambers  portrayed,  and  the  sick  languishing  on 
couches.  In  several  of  them  St.  Francis  appears  in  a  cloud  in 
a  corner  of  the  room,  telling  his  suffering  friends  what  to  do.  In 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL. 


153 


others,  beatified  monks  and  nuns  peep  through  holes  in  the  ceil 
ings  and  dictate  prescriptions,  the  writing  beneath  declaring  that 
their  heavenly  physicians  appeared  thus  visibly,  and  viva  voce 
delivered  their  advice.  To  transcribe  the  inscriptions  would  be 
to  copy  the  language  on  similar  tablets  in  the  temples  of  Egypt, 
Syria,  Greece,  and  old  Rome.  Each  one  begins  with  "Milagre" 
or  "3lilagroso"  Some  record  deliverances  from  shipwreck. 

Pious  pagans  did  not  confine  themselves  to  written  acknowl 
edgments  of  the  interposition  of  medical  divinities,  but  hung  up 
in  their  temples  figures  in  bronze,  wood,  etc.,  of  the  diseased 
members.  So  it  is  here.  Heads,  hands,  arms,  feet,  legs,  etc., 
of  natural  dimensions,  but  moulded  in  wax,  mingle  with  the 
tablets.  Here  are  five  hands,  three  feet,  two  legs,  four  arms, 
as  many  heads,  a  female's  breasts,  a  pair  of  eyes,  jaws,  and 
parts  which  I  can't  make  out.  On  two  of  the  hands  are  wens, 
an  excrescence  on  the  breast,  and  some  of  the  feet  are  distorted. 
None  of  these  are  colored.  A  couple  have  recently  been  put 
up,  the  wax  being  clean,  and  the  light  blue  ribbon  by  which 
they  are  suspended  quite  fresh.  The  rest  are  brown  with  age 
and  dust. 


EX   VOTOS   IN   THE    PAULA    CHURCH. 


After  I  had  contemplated  them  a  little,  a  gentleman  came 
out  of  the  vestry,  and  walked  to  and  fro,  watching  my  move 
ments.  I  thought  he  was  displeased,  but  perhaps  he  was  not. 
The  objects  were  too  interesting  to  be  abandoned. 

Offering  to  gods  metallic  and  other  representations  of  evils 
from  which  the  parties  were  freed  is  of  extreme  antiquity.  The 
earliest  example  on  record  is  a  remarkable  one.  1  Sam.,  vi.,  4. 
Tavernier  observes  of  India,  "  When  a  pilgrim  goes  to  a  pagod 
for  the  cure  of  disease,  he  takes  with  him  a  figure  of  the  mem- 


154  SKETCHES    OF 

ber  affected,  made  of  gold,  silver,  or  copper,  and  offers  it  to  his 
god."  See  also  Montfaucon,  tome  ii.,  for  ex  votos  in  temples 
—some  to  Neptune  for  safe  voyages,  to  Serapis  for  health,  Juno 
Lucina  for  children  and  happy  deliveries,  pictures  of  sick  pa 
tients  in  bed,  and  eyes,  heads,  legs,  limbs,  and  tablets  without 
number  to  Esculapius  and  other  popular  medical  saints  among 
the  heathen. 

On  leaving,  a  friend  went  with  me  to  a  wax-chandler's  store, 
where  I  found,  in  addition  to  members  just  named,  abdomens, 
breasts  single  and  in  pairs,  thighs,  hearts,  cheeks,  toes,  knee- 
joints,  and  faces,  all  of  full  size,  but  hollow  and  extremely  light. 
Here  were  babies,  also,  from  ten  to  fourteen  inches  high.  The 
proprietor  told  us  there  were  twenty-one  chandlers  in  Rio,  but 
only  seven  that  fabricated  these  things,  and  that  the  demand 
for  them  in  the  interior  is  considerable.  They  are  formed  in 
plaster  moulds,  and  constitute  a  regular  branch  of  business. 
Pointing  to  specimens  on  the  counter,  I  inquired  the  price. 
;t  That,"  said  he,  " depends  on  circumstances:  we  have  no  fixed 
charge."  He  was  assorting  large  candles,  such  as  are  used  at 
funerals  and  in  churches.  They  are  sold  at  54  cents  per  pound. 
Smaller,  for  family  use,  60  cents. 

11  th.  T-  -'s  birth-day,  and  celebrated  in  Brazilian  fashion. 
In  the  morning  complimentary  notes  and  presents  poured  in. 
One  bouquet  contained  a  thousand  floral  beauties.  Another 
came  from  Miss  L ,  of  the  Larangeiras,  and  to  it  was  at 
tached  by  a  thread  what  the  Indians  call  a  sunbeam ! — a  gua- 
nunbi — in  other  words,  a  golden-breasted  humming-bird.  The 
little  flutterer  soon  after  escaped  and  darted  back  to  its  native 
groves. 

12th.  A  red  curtain  in  the  doorway  of  the  church  of  the  Mil 
itary  Order  in  Dereita  Street  intimated  that  the  place  was  open. 
The  front  of  this  structure  is  low,  and  of  rather  elaborate  de 
sign.  There  is  some  good  carving  on  the  heavy  door,  and  two 
statues  occupy  niches  above  it.  The  narrow  sidewalk  in  front 
was  crowded  with  colored  women  and  their  baskets  of  fruit ;  and 
near  them  were  the  most  horribly  decrepit  beggars  I  ever  saw ; 
some  pushing  out  arms,  and  others  legs,  from  which  the  fingers 
and  toes  had  dropped  away  by  disease. 

As  persons  kept  going  in  and  out,  I  pushed  aside  the  screen 


LIFE    IN   BRAZIL.  155 

and  entered.  Besides  the  main  one,  here  are  only  two  side 
shrines.  The  image  over  one  of  these  is  the  Virgin,  in  what 
character  I  could  not  make  out,  nor  who  the  presiding  genius 
of  the  other  was.  No  priest  was  visible.  From  fifteen  to 
twenty  men,  women,  and  boys  were  within,  and  most  of  them 
in  front  of  the  left-hand  altar,  the  panel  of  which  was  removed, 
and  exposed  an  image  of  a  dead  Christ,  the  head,  hands,  and 
feet  marked  with  gore.  Worshipers  were  kissing  it.  While 
one  crept  up,  another  knelt  behind  him  to  be  ready,  and  in  this 
way  ladies  and  gentlemen,  negroes  and  negras,  succeeded  each 
other.  Every  one  contributed  something  to  swell  a  pile  of  cop 
pers  and  milreis  bills  on  an  immense  salver.  It  is  said  that 
ladies  will  not  kiss  an  image  after  a  negro  ;  I  saw  three  do  it 
here. 

This  image  has  acquired  great  notoriety.  Almost  every  one 
goes  to  see  it.  At  one  time  it  was  called  the  "  Insulted"  or 
"Affronted;"  it  is  now  known  as  the  " Disaffronted  Image." 

Some  time  ago  the  interior  of  the  church  was  undergoing  re 
pairs  and  a  refitting.  The  images  were  removed  to  the  vestry 
to  be  painted.  Several  workmen  were  employed  on  them,  and 
one,  a  Portuguese  from  the  Azores,  subject  to  epilepsy.  Among 
topics  of  conversation,  the  daily  one  of  lotteries  came  up.  Ev 
ery  person  gambles  in  them,  and  this  man  was  asked  by  his 
companions  if  he  had  bought  a  ticket  in  one  then  about  to  be 
drawn.  He  said  he  had  not ;  it  was  of  no  use ;  he  had  pur 
chased  many,  and  got  nothing  but  blanks.  "  If  it  had  not  been 
for  this  (using  an  opprobrious  term,  and  pointing  to  an  image  he 
was  painting),  who  had  a  spite  against  him,  he  would  have  drawn 
a  prize  in  the  last."  In  the  course  of  the  day,  though  some  say 
it  was  not  till  a  subsequent  one,  he  had  a  fit ;  the  priests  heard 
of  his  blasphemy  ;  it  became  noised  abroad  with  additions  ;  the 
city  was  in  uproar,  and  crowds  of  devotees  rushed  from  all  di 
rections  to  punish  the  blasphemer.  Fortunately  for  him,  some 
prudent  persons  got  him  on  board  of  a  small  vessel  in  the  Bay, 
or  he  would  have  been  torn  in  pieces.  It  was  said  he  had  not 
only  reviled  one  sacred  image,  but  had  stuck  his  cigar  in  the 
mouth  of  another. 

The  bishop  and  clergy  took  up  the  affair,  and  formally  ex 
communicated  the  offender.  He  was  arrested,  and,  to  escape 


156  SKETCHES   OF 

punishment,  readily  consented  to  make  every  concession.  Prep 
arations  were  made,  and  a  day  appointed  for  his  penance.  This 
took  place,  and  the  public  mind,  awakened  to  the  subject,  was 
not  allowed  to  forget  it.  Sermons  were  preached ;  pamphlets, 
with  portraits  of  the  image  and  its  reviler,  circulated ;  and  the 
wonderful  manifestation  of  the  wrath  of  Heaven  against  the  de- 
spisers  of  holy  images  set  forth.  The  feelings  of  the  supersti- 
tiously  devout  were  excited.  They  nocked  to  do  homage  to 
the  abused  image  ;  contributions  poured  in  ;  and  a  colonel  in  the 
army,  named  Castro,  took  the  insult  so  much  to  heart,  that  he 
presented  to  the  brotherhood  two  government  bonds  of  a  thou 
sand  milreis  each  toward  founding  a  perpetual  mass,  to  be  cele 
brated  every  Friday  before  and  in  honor  of  the  injured  image. 

The  contributions  on  the  dish  this  morning  evince  that  the 
excitement  is  not  over,  nor  are  efforts  wanting  to  keep  it  up. 
Like  other  associations,  the  brotherhood  and  board  of  managers 
know  the  value  of  newspaper  notices.  A  few  days  ago  the  fol 
lowing  appeared  in  the  Jornal  do  Commercio  : 

"Depois  do  dia  29  de  julho  do  anno  passado,  em  que  o  infeliz 
Augusto  Frederico  Correa,  apoderado  do  espirito  vertiginoso  de 
impiedade,  blasfemou  e  ridicularisou  a  sagrada  imagem  de  Nos- 
so  Senhor  Jesus  Christo,  da  igreja  da  Cruz,  foi  pela  imperial 
irmandade  dos  militares  e  louvaveis  membros  da  mesa,  com 
mais  fervor  animada  a  adoracao  da  mesma  Imagem,  estabele- 
cendo  a  missa  do  desaggravo  em  todas  as  sextas  feiras.  A  mesa 
actual,  nao  menos  zelosa  e  religiosa,  nada  tern  esquecido  p'ara 
com  todo  o  asseio,  respeito  e  solemnidade  continuar  com  esse 
Santo  Sacrificio  da  Missa,  que  attrahe  cada  vez  maior  iiumero 
de  devotos. 

"  Este  proceder  da  mesa  e  da  imperial  irmandade  nao  pode 
ser  indifferente  a  um  catholico  que  reconhece  os  importantes  ser- 
vi9os  daquella  irmandade,  fazendo  respeitar  a  Religiao,  e  trans- 
mittir  aos  nossos  vindouros  pela  missa  semanal  a  historia  do 
desacato  feito  a,  Sagrada  Imagem. 

"  Estas  poucas  linhas  sejao  aceitas  pela  irmandade,  como  tri- 
buto  de  gratidao  e  respeito  que  Ihe  consagra.  UM  DEVOTO." 

"  On  the  29th  of  July  of  last  year,  the  unhappy  Augustus 
Frederick  Correa,  instigated  by  a  demon  of  impiety,  ridiculed  and 
blasphemed  the  sacred  image  of  our  Lord  Jesus  Christ  of  the 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  157 

Church  of  the  Cross,  upon  which  the  Imperial  Brotherhood  of 
the  Military  and  the  worthy  members  of  the  board  established 
a  mass,  to  be  celebrated  every  Friday,  for  the  purpose  of  disaf- 
fronting  the  image,  and  to  animate  the  pious  to  adore  it  with 
increased  fervor.  The  present  board,  not  less  zealous  than  their 
predecessors,  have  neglected  nothing  calculated  to  add  to  the 
respect  and  solemnity  of  the  holy  sacrifice  of  the  mass,  and  to 
attract  a  large  number  of  devotees. 

"  These  proceedings  of  the  Board  of  the  Imperial  Brother 
hood  can  not  be  indifferent  to  Catholics  familiar  with  the  im 
portant  service  of  the  brotherhood  in  inducing  respect  for  reli 
gion,  and  transmitting  to  our  descendants  by  this  weekly  mass 
the  history  of  the  insult  offered  to  the  sacred  image. 

"  These  few  lines  will  be  accepted  by  the  brotherhood  as  a 
tribute  of  gratitude  and  respect  which  have  consecrated  to  them 

"A  DEVOTEE." 

A  rich  contributor  has,  with  a  view  still  farther  to  "  redress 
the  wrong"  inflicted  by  the  painter,  had  a  handsome  lithograph 
executed  of  the  altar  and  "the  Disaffronted  Lord"  prostrate 
within  it.  I  am  indebted  to  the  politeness  of  the  artists  for  a 
copy. 

Desirous  of  seeing  an  official  account  of  the  affair,  the  Jor- 
)ial  of  August  13,  1845,  was  put  into  my  hands,  and  from  it  the 
following  extract  is  taken : 

"  On  the  evening  of  the  29th  ultimo,  a  painter,  named  Augus 
tus  Frederick  de  Almeida,  aged  23,  and  born  in  the  Azores,  was 
employed  in  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Cross  of  the  Military. 
While  at  work  with  other  artists  in  the  consistory,  he,  possess 
ed  by  the  devil,  blasphemed  an  image  of  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ, 
nor  desisted  when  reprimanded  by  his  companions.  As  soon 
as  he  left  the  consistory  to  work  at  the  altar  of  our  Lady  of 
Pains  in  the  Church,  a  horrible  shriek  was  heard,  and  he  was 
seen  falling  to  the  ground.  He  struggled  violently,  and  lost 
the  use  of  his  speech,  which  he  did  not  recover  for  three  days. 

"  Yesterday,  at  10  A.M.,  his  excellency  the  bishop,  Count 
of  Iraja,  etc.,  accompanied  by  the  clergy  of  the  parish,  went  to 
disabuse  the  holy  image  of  the  insult  offered  it  at  the  very  place 
where  the  crime  was  committed.  The  clergy  of  the  Candelaria, 
with  the  Imperial  Brotherhood  of  the  Military,  were  also  in  at- 


158  SKETCHES   OF 

tendance,  and  in  their  presence  the  image  was  uncovered  and 
exposed  to  public  veneration. 

"The  Canon  Moreria,  master  of  ceremonies  to  the  throne, 
read  a  pastoral  letter  of  the  count  bishop,  in  which  were  narrated 
all  the  particulars  relating  to  the  insult,  and  wherein  his  excel 
lency  speaks  largely  of  the  worship  (culto)  of  images,  and  elu 
cidates  the  practice  from  ancient  custom.  The  unhappy  delin 
quent,  with  a  most  contrite  countenance,  then  made  a  public 
confession  of  his  guilt,  and  was  absolved  by  his  excellency  from 
the  penalties  he  had  incurred.  He  made  his  profession  of  faith, 
and  recited  the  Apostles'  Creed,  and  after  it  an  article  upon  the 
worship  of  images,  according  to  the  Piana  faith.  The  Liturgy 
of  the  Saints  was  chanted  by  the  clergy,  and  the  whole  con 
cluded  with  the  oration  Pro  Excelsia. 

"  Then  followed  the  adoration  of  the  sacred  image,  every  per 
son  present  prostrating  himself  before  it  and  kissing  it.  The 
concourse  of  people  was  very  great.  The  church  and  consis 
tory  could  not  contain  the  faithful  who  crowded  to  the  cere 
mony.  During  the  day  great  numbers  rushed  to  '  adore  the  im 
age  of  the  Lord.'" 

As  the  door  of  the  Imperial  Chapel  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  street  was  open,  I  crossed  over  and  entered.  I  had  been  in 
before.  Externally,  the  old  structure  is  inferior  to  its  next- 
door  neighbor,  the  Carmo  Church,  being  built  of  rough  stone  like 
common  stores,  and  plastered  ;  but  within,  it  is  rich  in  carvings, 
and  showy  as  paint  and  gold-leaf  can  make  it.  The  official 
fane  of  the  court,  a  wooden  statue  of  St.  Sebastian,  protector 
of  the  empire,  stands  conspicuously  over  the  high  altar.  His 
naked  body  is  covered  with  bleeding  wounds  left  by  the  arrows. 
Below,  and  alternating  with  the  altar  candlesticks,  are  small  fig 
ures  (30  inches)  of  the  apostles,  most  of  whom  have  halos — sil 
ver  wires  springing  from  and  returning  in  circles  to  their  heads. 
A  coat  of  arms  is  wrought  on  the  pedestal  of  each. 

On  the  floor  stand  the  usual  chancel  candlesticks.  They 
have  plain  cylindrical  shafts,  and  square  bases,  being  the  plain 
est-looking  things  of  the  kind  in  Kio,  and  the  only  silver  ones. 
I  had  been  told  they  were  of  solid  metal,  but  I  had  ocular  proof 
that  they  are  of  the  same  material  as  the  equally  large  and  more 
tastefully-designed  golden  ones  of  other  churches — solid  wood. 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  159 

Belonging  to  the  state  chapel,  and  the  only  specimens  coated 
with  silver  leaf,  they  have  acquired  the  reputation  of  being  all 
prata. 

Six  subsidiary  altars,  furnished  with  appropriate  appendages, 
are  in  the  body  of  the  building.  Each  has  its  presiding  genius : 
The  Baptist,  San  Jose,  St.  John  Nepomuceno,  St.  Anne,  and 
our  Lady  of  the  Head,  every  one  of  whom  holds  a  festival  here 
once  a  year,  and  receives  petitions  every  day.  As  it  would  be 
a  slight  to  the  Portuguese  hero,  the  "  Padroeiro  de  todo  O  Im- 
pcrio  do  Brazil,"  to  refuse  him  a  shrine  in  the  national  temple, 
accommodations  have  been  made  for  San  Pedro  d' Alcantara  in 
a  large  recess  within  the  chancel,  where,  on  the  19th  of  October, 
lie  holds  his  annual  levee. 

Across  the  entrance  end  of  the  church  is  a  small  music  gal 
lery,  where  is  also  an  old  organ,  and  connected  to  it  is  a  Turk's 
head  projecting  from  the  front  of  the  gallery.  By  some  mech 
anism,  when  the  music  plays  the  eyes  of  the  whiskered  and 
mustached  infidel  roll  in  ecstasy. 

13t/i.  Called  on  H ,  who  asked  if  I  had  seen  the  bare 
footed  friars.  I  had  not.  "  Come  along,  then  ;"  and  off  we 
started  for  Castle  Hill.  There  are  two  ridges  on  this  eminence, 
both  occupied  at  an  early  period  by  the  Church.  On  one  is  the 
old  Jesuits'  Chapel  and  some  splendid  remains  of  the  cathedral 
begun  by  them.  On  the  other  is  the  homely  little  fane  of  St. 
Sebastian.  Long  neglected,  it  has,  through  the  influence  of  the 
empress,  been  recently  granted  to  a  troupe  of  Capuchins,  her 
countrymen,  whom  we  are  on  the  way  to  visit. 

Gasping  and  panting,  we  climb  the  zigzag  path,  and,  when 
two  thirds  up,  to  cut  off  a  long  sweep,  dash  up  a  precipitous 
bank  and  land  upon  the  green  summit.  Close  by  the  little 
whitewashed  temple  a  large  and  massive  structure  is  going  up, 
part  of  the  erections  contemplated  for  this  central  establishment 
of  Capuchin  missions  in  Brazil,  for  such  it  is  avowed  to  be. 
"Who  finds  the  money?"  I  inquired.  "The  government  has 
granted  the  friars  a  lottery  by  which  to  raise  it."* 

An  ancient  marble  post  stands  three  feet  out  of  the  ground 
near  one  corner  of  the  church.  Its  date,  if  it  had  any,  has  be- 

*  For  this  fact,  see  Report  of  the  Minister  of  Justice  to  the  Legislature,  May. 
1846,  p.  31,  32. 


160  SKETCHES    OF 

come  obliterated.  On  one  of  its  four  sides  a  cross  of  Malta, 
and  on  another  the  arms  of  Portugal  are  about  to  disappear. 
We  stepped  within,  and  found  three  friars  reading  to  themselves 
within  the  altar  rails.  Outside,  eight  elderly  men  and  women 
were  seated  on  benches — the  first  seats  I  have  seen  on  the  floor 
of  a  church  here.  In  this  little  space  were  no  less  than  five 
shrines,  each  with  its  presiding  divinity — Sebastian,  Veronica, 
another  female  whose  name  I  did  not  learn,  but  at  her  feet  and 
side  was  quite  an  assortment  of  heads,  necks,  hands,  feet,  eyes, 
jaws,  breasts,  and  kindred  specimens  of  wax  chandlery.  At 
one  shrine  are  thirty-inch  figures  of  the  Virgin  and  child  :  King 
David  is  taking  off  his  crown  to  the  latter  ;  and  the  three  Magi, 
one  of  whom  is  a  negro,  are  making  their  offerings  and  salaams. 
Here  hang  a  cereous  arm,  and  a  hand  without  fingers.  The 
other  shrines  are  little  more  than  old-fashioned  tables  placed 
beneath  ancient  dolls. 

A  couple  of  "  confessionals"  stand  by  the  box  pulpit.  They 
resemble  large  invalid  chairs,  with  broad  sides  carried  up  as  high 
as  the  high  backs.  Into  each  side  is  let  a  sheet  of  tin,  painted 
yellow  and  perforated  with  small  holes,  through  which  a  peni 
tent  breathes  her  shortcomings  and  the  friar  whispers  penance. 
In  this  class  of  chairs  a  priest  occasionally  shrives  two  at  once 
by  inclining  the  right  ear  to  one  strainer  and  the  left  to  the 
other. 

Lithographic  saints  hang  on  the  walls  along  with  old  portraits 
in  oil  of  St.  Bernard  and  other  Capuchin  worthies.  Alms-boxes 
solicit  contributions.  On  the  back  of  one  is  a  miniature  of 
"Nossa  Senhora  da  Paz." 

We  fortunately  met  here  Senhor  Barboza,  a  gentleman  con 
nected  with  the  State  Department,  and,  as  far  as  I  could  learn, 
the  only  antiquary  in  Rio.  On  the  church  floor  are  ancient 
monumental  slabs.  One  with  shield,  helmet,  and  crossed,  arms 
lies  within  the  chancel,  and  is  of  historical  value.  With  some 
difficulty  we  made  out  the  inscription :  "  Aqui  jaz  Esta9io  de 
Sa  1°  Cassm.  i  Conquistador  d'isla,  terra  i  Cidade.  Ea  campa 
mandou  fazer  Salvador  Corr1  de  Sa  seu  primo  i  2°  Cass.  Govorr. 

Capella  achabou  un 1583."     A  few 

words  in  my  MS.  are  illegible,  but  they  are  unimportant.     The 
sense  is  complete.      "  Here  lies  Esta^io  de  Sa,  first  captain-gen- 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  161 

eral  and  conqueror  of  the  isle  of  Villegagnon,  land  and  city. 
This  tomb  was  erected  by  Salvador  Correa  de  Sa,  his  cousin, 
and  second  captain-governor.  This  chapel  was  finished  in 
1583." 

As  the  occupant  of  the  tomb  died  sixteen  years  before  the 
church  was  built,  a  note  may  here  be  added,  taken  substantial 
ly  from  a  popular  abridgment  of  the  history  of  the  country,  re 
cently  published  in  Eio : 

"Estacio  de  Sa,  nephew  of  Mendo  de  Sa,  governor-general 
of  Brazil,  was  sent  out  by  the  Queen-regent  of  Portugal  in  1564, 
with  orders  to  his  uncle  to  assist  him  with  forces  to  expel  the 
French  at  Rio.  In  the  following  year  Estacio  came  down  from 
Bahia  with  the  required  assistance,  landed  near  the  Sugar-loaf, 
and  was  defeated.  He  sent  for  farther  aid  to  his  uncle,  who 
placed  a  squadron  under  the  command  of  Christopher  de  Bar- 
ros,  joined  it  himself,  and  arrived  at  Estacio's  camp  on  the 
18th  of  January,  1567.  They  put  off  the  attack  till  the  20th, 
St.  Sebastian's  day,  and  then  attacked  the  French,  slew  the 
whole  of  their  Indian  allies,  the  Tamoyoes,  took  the  fort  Ura- 
cumini,  and  afterward  Fort  Coligny  and  island  of  Villegagnon. 
In  the  attack  Estacio  received  an  arrow  in  his  face,  which 
caused  his  death  a  month  after.  His  cousin,  Salvador  Correa 
de  Sa,  second  in  command,  and  named  by  the  queen  his  suc 
cessor  in  case  of  his  demise,  then  drew  up  a  plan  and  laid  out  a 
city  on  the  edge  of  the  Bay,  naming  it  after  the  saint  on  whose 
anniversary  they  had  recovered  the  place.  The  French  thus 
expelled  went  to  Pernambuco,  but  not  succeeding  in  making  a 
landing,  returned  to  Europe. 

"  Esta9io  was  buried  on  the  beach,  and  his  remains  were  sub 
sequently  removed  by  his  cousin  to  their  present  resting-place." 

While  stooping  and  turning  about  to  decipher  and  copy  the 

inscription,  I  forgot  Sebastian  and  Veronica.  Senhor  B 

requested  II to  remind  me  of  the  impropriety  of  turning 

my  back  on  them,  and  to  beg  that  I  would  keep  at  least  one 
cheek  toward  them  while  tracing  the  letters. 

Every  body  seemed  to  go  into  the  vestry,  and  we  followed. 
The  great  attraction  was  the  chief  of  the  Capuchins.  He  was 
engaged  at  a  chest  of  drawers,  selecting  fresh  linen  for  the 
shrines  and  images,  opening  first  one  drawer  and  then  another, 

L 


162  SKETCHES   OF 

till  he  got  a  piece  to  suit.  He  then  shook  it  out  before  him, 
took  it  to  a  shrine,  and  came  back  for  another,  making  a  leg  to 
the  altar  as  he  passed  in  and  out.  A  score  or  more  of  both 
sexes  came  in,  and  almost  every  one  went  up  and  snatched  his 
hand  and  kissed  it,  or,  rather,  his  wrist-joint,  for  that  is  the  part 
saluted,  the  owner  facilitating  the  operation  by  bending  the 
hand  inward. 

Between  thirty-five  and  forty,  there  were  few  of  the  elements 
of  comeliness  in  him  to  make  ladies  dote  upon  his  person  :  a 
wedge  and  freckled  face,  small,  keen,  and  restless  gray  eyes,  a 
thick  and  reddish  beard  that  spread  like  furze  up  to  his  ears. 
He  wears  no  body-linen,  but  is  clothed  in  a  russet  gown  tied 
round  his  middle.  At  his  left  side  swings  two  feet  of  knotted 
cord,  and  at  the  right  a  string  of  rough  beads.  His  gown  has 
no  collar,  leaving  his  tanned  neck  exposed,  while  the  opening  in 
front  shows  his  hairy  breast.  The  cowl  hangs  down  his  back, 
its  peak  reaching  to  the  cord  round  his  waist.  No  stockings, 
of  course,  but  his  feet  are  pushed  into  tamancos — wooden-soled 
slippers — in  which  he  shuffles  about,  showing  his  bare  heels 
wherever  he  moves.  As  he  is  dressed,  so  are  his  associates. 

Among  the  treasures  on  the  vestry  walls  brought  over  by 
the  Capuchins  was  one  that,  from  its  insignificant  appearance, 
arrested  my  attention,  as  well  as  from  the  fact  that  almost  ev 
ery  person  who  came  in  went  up  and  kissed  it.  A  little  black 
picture-frame,  with  a  piece  of  glass  in  front,  was  the  rough  cas 
ket  of  the  precious  relic,  namely,  "  An  exact  outline  of  the  Vir 
gin's  shoe-sole,"  which  fell  from  heaven  near  Padua  in  1543. 
The  particulars,  in  fine  writing,  are  given  within  the  contour. 
Clement  VII.  or  VIII.,  and  another  pope,  are  quoted  as  veri 
fying  the  particulars.  The  shape  is  not  over 
handsome — see  the  cut — if  it  had  reference  to 
that  of  the  wearer's  foot.  The  length  is  7J 
inches,  and  breadth  from  2J  to  3.  Many  Bra 
zilian  ladies  have  smaller  shoes.  One  of  the 
men  who  kissed  it  told  us  the  fathers  have  re 
cently  received  from  Home  some  very  holy  and 
miraculous  images,  which  will  soon  be  exposed 
to  the  pious. 


I  AM  •> 

. 


On  the  other  spur  of  Castle  Hill  is  the  old 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  163 

Jesuits'  chapel.  The  date  of  its  erection  is  over  the  door — 
" 1567."  Though  quite  small,  it  has  four  altars.  Loyola,  in 
full  stature,  occupies  the  chief  one ;  Francis  Borgia  and  Xavier 
stand  by  him.  Kvery  thing  looks  worn  and  faded.  Capitals, 
friezes,  cornices,  pilasters,  etc.,  of  cut  stone,  lie  about  the  place 
— unused  portions  of  materials  for  structures  begun  before  the 
expulsion  of  the  order  in  1753.  The  entire  grounds  and  prop 
erty  are  now  in  the  possession  of  the  government,  appropriated 
to  an  observatory,  telegraph,  and  other  public  institutions. 

AJUDA   NUNNERY. 

On  reaching  the  foot  of  the  hill,  we  observed,  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  street,  one  of  the  heavy  doors  of  the  Ajuda  Convent 
open,  and  stepped  into  a  paved  area  around  which  the  dark 
walls  arise.  Of  the  two  tiers  of  windows,  the  lowest  is  fifteen 
feet  from  the  ground,  and  all  inclosed  with  massive  gratings  that 
remind  one  of  the  condemned  cells  of  Newgate.  At  the  side 
farthest  from  the  street  is  the  apparatus  by  which  persons  with 
out  communicate  with  the  interior.  I  had  read  of  the  ancient 
device.  A  rectangular  opening,  about  four  feet  high  and  two 
and  a  half  wide,  is  cut  through  the  thick  wall,  the  upright  edges 
being  worked  concave.  A  strong  wooden  cylinder  or  drum  is 
made  to  revolve  vertically  in  the  opening,  and  to  occupy  it  whol 
ly.  Suppose  the  staves  of  the  cylinder  be  removed  for  one 
third  of  its  circumference,  you  have  then  a  revolving  cupboard, 
into  which  any  article  put  in  at  one  side  of  the  wall  is  instant 
ly  received  at  the  other  on  simply  pushing  round  the  opening, 
and  without  either  sender  or  receiver  having  a  chance  to  get  a 
glimpse  of  each  other.  The  sides  of  the  drum  enter  the  con 
cave  sides  of  the  wall,  and  its  bottom  and  top  extend  within 
the  stone-work.  The  width  of  the  opening  into  the  drum  is 
only  half  the  thickness  of  the  wall,  so  that  in  no  position  of 
the  drum  can  a  spectator  see  any  one  within. 

While  we  stood  by,  a  negro  brought  a  parcel,  put  it  in  the 
closet,  clapped  his  hands  as  a  signal,  and  turned  the  dumb  wait 
er  half  way  round.  Thus  money,  letters,  food,  and  all  articles 
required  are  passed  within.  If  sweetmeats  have  been  ordered 
by  friends  or  visitors,  the  price  is  put  on  the  shelf,  and  the  next 
moment  the  bon-bons  come  out. 


164  SKETCHES  OF 

We  strolled  to  the  farther  extremity  of  the  same  side  of  the 
square,  where  there  was  a  similar  machine,  and  near  it  a  strong 
door  with  a  small  brass  plate,  full  of  minute  holes,  through 
which  the  invisible  abbess,  or  her  deputies,  can  see  who  stands 
without.  Casually  touching  this  door,  it  yielded  to  slight  press 
ure.  Here  was  a  temptation  to  step  into  a  nunnery,  for  none 
but  our  two  selves  were  within  the  spacious  area.  To  have 
some  color  for  pushing  the  hinged  valve  back,  one  of  us  gently 
knocked.  No  one  answered,  but  some  object  behind  moderate 
ly  opposed  its  being  opened.  By  little  and  little  the  opening 
was  enlarged,  and  our  courage  with  it.  We  squeezed  in,  when 
my  companion,  in  a  whisper,  said,  "  This  is  the  office  of  the 
portress.  She  has  left  for  a  moment,  and,  not  dreaming  of  in 
truders,  placed  her  old  high-backed  chair  against  the  door. 
She'll  return  anon,  and  give  the  alarm  if  she  find  us  here." 

But  the  way  into  the  interior  was  not  so  clear  as  we  imag 
ined;  still,  we  got  a  view  of  the  machinery  adopted  in  such 
places  to  prevent  intrusion  and  desertion.  The  small  apartment 
opened  into  a  large,  long,  and,  verily,  a  strong  one.  A  paved 
floor,  high  whitewashed  walls,  with  nothing  to  break  their  mo 
notony  or  let  in  light,  that  we  could  see,  save  a  single  opening, 
eight  feet  square,  and  level  with  the  ground.  This  communi 
cated  with  a  wide  and  dim  passage  into  which  we  could  not  get ; 
for  there  was  no  entering  the  large  opening  in  front  of  which  we 
stood.  The  stone  wall  through  which  it  is  cut  is  four  feet  thick, 
and  on  each  side  hangs  a  gauze  curtain  whose  threads  are  inch 
bars  of  iron :  those  forming  the  woof  pass  through  loops  in  the 
warp,  and  the  ends  of  all  are  buried  in  the  granite  blocks.  The 
interstitial  spaces  are  between  three  and  four  inches.  A  rather 
larger  aperture  is  at  the  bottom,  and  through  it  small  things  are 
passed  across  on  the  blade  of  a  wooden  shovel,  as  appeared  from 
one  lying  ready  for  the  purpose. 

If,  as  is  said,  nuns  are  happy  in  their  cells,  for  what  purpose 
then,  in  lands  were  law  prevails,  are  these  massive  walls, 
gratings,  bolts,  locks,  and  other  devices  ?  Even  shackles,  it  is 
admitted,  are  not  wanting  in  this  place.  No  felon-prison  can 
have  a  better  system  of  securities.  What  alliance  can  there  be 
between  the  gentle,  willing  spirit  of  the  Gospel  and  so  much 
iron?  Penal  statutes  suffice  to  prevent  people  from  breaking 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  165 

in ;  what  need  of  such  devices,  if  not  designed  to  keep  those  con 
fined  from  breaking  out  ?  These  thoughts  I  addressed  to  my 
companion,  who  said  I  might  stay  till  the  door-keeper  returned, 
and  ask  her !  In  two  minutes  more  we  were  in  the  street. 
Through  what  passage  she  had  disappeared,  after  blocking  hex 
door,  we  could  not  imagine. 

This  was  the  first  and  last  time  I  got  into  a  nunnery.  Into 
the  chapel  fronting  the  street  I  often  stepped. 

There  is  no  entering  ecclesiastical  institutions  here  without 
being  reminded  of  their  heathen  originajs,  and  of  the  little  change 
they  have  undergone.  Every  popular  phase  of  ancient  worship 
was  early  adopted.  Rituals  of  the  temples,  and  the  temples 
themselves ;  the  different  orders  of  priests,  and  their  imposing 
costumes  ;  the  entire  system  of  symbolism  ;  of  praying  through 
the  medium  of  images  and  other  physical  representations  ;  pray 
ing  for  the  dead,  and  to  the  dead.  The  various  religious  orders, 
too,  including  mendicant  and  monastic,  are  of  pagan  parentage, 
with  all  their  peculiarities  of  dress  and  discipline — their  shaven 
crowns,  knotted  cords,  relics,  rosaries,  and  squalor. 

The  institution  of  Vestals  was  reverenced  at  Rome.  Numa, 
the  consuls,  and  the  emperors  patronized  them ;  the  rich  made 
presents,  the  pious  bequeathed  legacies,  and  the  superstitious 
sought  admission  for  their  daughters.  Commanding  general 
respect,  they  were  introduced,  under  Christian  appellations,  into 
the  Church.  Substituting  the  Virgin  for  Vesta,  the  old  rules, 
penalties,  peculiarities,  etc.,  seem  to  have  been  received  without 
material  revision,  and  also  the  plans,  arrangements,  securities, 
general  economy,  and  management  of  the  nunneries. 

The  cloistered  virgins  of  the  Ajuda  pass  their  lives  in  much 
the  same  way  as  their  sisters  of  antiquity :  separated  from  the 
world,  from  parental  and  family  influence,  dedicated  to  a  goddess 
"Nossa  Senhora  da  Ajuda,"  donning  a  particular  habit,  their 
initiation  accompanied  by  cutting  off  their  hair,  vowing  chasti 
ty,  and  subject  to  death  for  its  violation,  strictly  secluded,  ex 
traordinary  means  employed  to  prevent  their  communicating 
without  the  walls  that  inclose  them,  under  the  surveillance  of 
a  matron  and  a  system  of  espionage  that  sifts  out  their  very 
thoughts,  subject  to  the  control  and  punishment  of  the  bishop, 
no  male  persons  allowed  to  visit  them  except  those  interested 


166  SKETCHES  OF 

in  retaining  them,  and  permitted  to  hold  free  converse  with 
none  else. 

The  Pontifex  Maximns  chastised  pagan  nuns  for  offenses,  and 
his  modern  representative  does  the  same  thing.  If  Christian 
nuns  are  not  now  put  to  death  for  violating  their  vows,  they 
once  were,  and,  but  for  the  increasing  intelligence  of  the  age, 
would  undoubtedly  be  again. 

The  inmates  of  nunneries,  it  is  asserted,  "  are  happy" — "even 
those  who  enter  reluctantly  become  reconciled  and  content." 
Here  are  a  few  Rio  facts  in  illustration : 

1.  H told  me  he  was  acquainted  with  four  sisters,  all  of 

whom  were  forced  by  one  or  both  parents  into  the  Tereza  Con 
vent.     Years  elapsed,  and  the  father  died,  when  three,  all  that 
were  alive,  by  appealing  to  the  Pope,  eventually  got  out. 

2.  A  merchant,  whom  he  also  knew  well,  took  an  only  daugh 
ter  out  one  day  a  visiting.      The  carriage  stopped  at  the  Ajuda 
Convent.     The  young  lady  tripped  up  the  three  or  four  outer 
steps  without  observing  the  place,  the  doors  closed  on  her,  and 
her  parent  drove  off.      She  had  refused  a  husband  selected  for 
her,  and  was  immured  two  years  before  she  yielded  her  consent 
and  was  let  out. 

3.  A  poor  woman,  with  a  slight  peculiarity  of  manner,  is  oc 
casionally  seen  in  the  Cattete.      She  passed  the  window  twice 
yesterday.      "  Sister  Paula"  and  her  melancholy  history   are 
known  to  many  families  in  the  Gloria  parish. 

Of  respectable  lineage,  she  was  born  and  brought  up  in  the 
country.  Amiable  and  intelligent,  she  unfortunately  became 
rich  in  her  own  right  on  the  death  of  her  mother.  Her  father 
and  brothers  coveted  her  wealth,  and  found  means  to  gain  over 
the  abbess  of  the  Ajuda.  A  chest,  perforated  to  admit  air,  was 
provided  by  the  unnatural  villains,  and  in  it  the  poor  victim  was 
hurried  from  her  residence  (some  leagues  distant  from  Bio)  to 
the  convent.  She  resisted  all  attempts  made  to  force  her  to  take 
the  veil,  and  in  a  long  course  of  years  managed  to  escape  three 
times,  but  implored  in  vain,  with  a  heart  bursting  with  anguish, 
for  mercy  from  her  kindred.  The  last  time  it  was  her  brothers 
who  drove  her  back,  the  father  being  dead.  Nature  at  length 
gave  way.  The  punishments  to  which  on  these  occasions  she 
was  subjected — chastisement,  want  of  food,  shackles,  and  other 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  167 

tortures,  known  only  to  the  fiends  that  inflicted  them,  broke 
her  down.  Reason  fled,  and  she,  became  irrevocably  insane. 
Her  persecutors  took  undisturbed  possession  of  her  property : 
and  some,  it  is  said,  still  enjoy  it — if,  indeed,  they  can  enjoy  it 
or  any  thing  else.  Of  her  they  know  nothing.  A  nun  has 
neither  worldly  relations  nor  wealth.  Every  thing,  even  her 
name,  is  taken  from  her,  and  all  natural  ties  are  forever  sun 
dered. 

The  abbess  permitted  her — imprudently,  as  many  think— to 
go  at  large.  She  is  over  fifty.  Her  disease  is  of  a  mild  type. 
For  several  years  she  has  made  out,  by  charity  and  her  needle, 
to  hire  a  room  and  buy  the  little  food  she  wants.  She  constructs 
wax  and  feather  flowers,  makes  "baby  saints,"  and  assists  in 
dressing  images  for  the  festivals.  Dwelling  near  the  Lapa 
Church,  she  is  employed  every  Christmas  to  fit  up  in  it  "the 
Cradle  and  the  Baby  God."  All  churches  have,  at  that  season, 
an  exhibition  of  this  kind.  Most  have  new  bedclothes  and 
dresses,  but  some  have  the  old  ones  furbished  up  and  used 
again.  Sister  Paula  sometimes  quarrels  with  the  brotherhood, 
and  loses  an  order  "  to  dress  Our  Lady  and  her  Son."  At  lucid 
intervals  she  will  speak  with  a  few  confidential  friends  of  the  in 
human  treatment  of  her  brothers  and  the  abbess.  At  other 
times  she  says  an  evil  spirit  possesses  her — "  one  too  strong  for 
the  friars  of  St.  Anthony  to  drive  out."  Poor  lady  !  she  is  right. 
Hers  is  a  wounded  spirit,  which  requires  a  higher  power  than 
that  -of  any  dead  or  living  saint  to  heal. 

4.   Senhor  L a,  of  the  Larangeiras,  ex-councilor  of  state, 

has  an  aged  relative  in  the  Ajuda  Convent,  a  first  cousin  to  his 
mother.  She  has  at  present  charge  of  the  garden,  which  is  as 
much  concealed  from  the  public  as  the  interior  of  the  building. 
Having  been  abbess,  she  is  known  -as  Mother  Anne  Tereza. 
This  venerable  lady  was  in  her  youth  one  of  the  handsomest 
girls  of  Eio.  She  formed  an  attachment  which  her  father  did 
not  approve  of,  although  her  lover  was  every  way  worthy  of  her. 
By  the  influence  of  her  parents  he  was  shipped  off  to  India,  and 
she  carried  directly  to  an  endless  imprisonment  in  the  awful 
Ajuda.  Distracted  beyond  endurance,  for  months  horror  and 
despair  preyed  on  her :  she  was  tempted  to  end  her  miseries  by 
suicide.  A  year  passed  over — another,  and  others,  till  her  soul, 


168  SKETCHES  OF 

crushed  by  griefs,  yielded  to  her  fate.  Urged  to  take  the  veil,  she 
consented ;  but,  ere  the  ceremonies  were  quite  over,  she  awoke 
as  from  a  lethargy  artificially  produced,  and  burst  into  such  a 
torrent  of  abuse  of  her  parents  and  family,  who  were  witnessing 
the  rite,  the  abbess,  convent,  and  the  whole  system  of  ecclesias 
tical  fraud  and  tyranny,  that  for  a  moment  all  stood  aghast.  And 
but  for  a  moment !  It  was  evident  she  was  possessed !  Under 
this  belief  she  was  gagged,  borne  off  to  her  cell,  confined  by  cords, 
and  punished  no  one  living  knows  how  but  herself. 

Time,  that  subdues  all  things,  at  last  tamed  her.  Forever 
excluded  from  the  world,  and  without  a  friend,  relative,  or  ac 
quaintance  in  it — to  her  all  was  lost — she  consented  to  live  and 
adapt  herself  to  her  hard  lot.  She  became  a  favorite,  and  was 
twice  elected  abbess,  which  office  she  has  filled  for  eight  years 
(an  election  takes  place  every  four  years).  Let  us  hope  that  the 
victims  sent  in  under  her  administration  were  differently  treated 
than  she  had  been. 

It  must  not  be  supposed  that  the  law  could  interfere.  No 
civil  officer  could  (nor  can)  enter  a  convent  to  serve  process 
there ;  and  under  the  old  regime,  a  father  had  unlimited  power 
over  his  daughters.  The  only  redress  was :  1.  Through  the 
bishop  ;  but  while  the  abbess  was  in  collusion  with  parents,  the 
victim  might  wear  her  fingers  to  the  bone  in  writing  petitions 
before  one  could  reach  him.  Not  a  scrap  can  enter  or  pass  out 
without  her  consent.  2.  The  bishop  had  to  appeal  to  Lisbon; 
and,  3.  Through  the  ecclesiastical  authorities  there,  the  court 
at  Rome  had  to  be  consulted. 

In  the  second  volume  of  "  Transactions  of  the  Geographical 
and  Historical  Institute  of  Brazil"  is  a  notice  of  Don  Francisco 
de  San  Jeronimo,  the  founder  of  this  convent.  A  holy  man,  he 
wrought  miracles  ;  two  are  cited :  When  coming  over  from  Lis 
bon  the  ship  took  fire ;  he  prayed  to  God  and  Our  Lady,  and  in 
stantly  the  flames  went  out.  A  favorite  servant  became  dis 
eased  in  his  legs,  and,  after  trying  several  methods  of  cure,  the 
doctors  proposed  amputation.  On  hearing  this,  the  saint  pray 
ed  over  the  sickly  members,  and  they  became  sound  ere  lie  rose 
from  his  knees. 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL,  169 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

Candelaria  Church.— Jacks  of  the  Clock.— Peccary.— God's  Stepfather. —Botanic 
Garden. — Snake. — Fences. — Dinner  and  its  Cost. — Catalogue  of  Plants  in  the 
Garden. 

March  16.  Among  the  first  objects  which  attract  the  eye  on 
entering  Rio  Bay  is  a  couple  of  light  and  handsome  turrets, 
surmounted  with  glittering  domes  resembling  inverted  pears — 
pinnacles  of  "The  Candelaria"  Church.  These  turrets  com 
mand  an  extended  prospect,  and  to  the  top  of  one  of  them  I  as 
cended  with  some  friends  to-day.  Here  we  contemplated  the 
dingy  red  roofs  beneath  us,  and  the  narrow  threads  of  streets 
still  lower  down — the  silver  Bay,  its  shipping,  verdant  isles,  and 
mountain  boundaries,  particularly  the  organ  peaks  at  its  head, 
shooting  up  in  the  blue  ether  in  fantastic  pinnacles,  ranging 
from  three  to  seven  or  eight  thousand  feet  above  the  Bay.  "  The 
Serra,"  a  term  universally  applied  by  Spaniards  and  Portu 
guese  to  mountain  ranges,  is  peculiarly  appropriate  to  these,  for 
they  resemble  the  jagged  teeth  of  a  saw,  or  the  serrated  vertebra 
of  a  fish,  quite  as  much  as  the  pipes  of  an  organ. 

The  Candelaria  has  no  clock,  and,  if  I  mistake  not,  of  the 
forty  odd  churches,  that  of  St.  Francis  de  Paula  alone  has  one. 
Certainly  no  other  has  one  that  strikes  the  hours.  Dials  are  in 
front  of  some  which  have  no  works  behind  them.  Though  Rio 
is  thus  poor  in  town  horologes,  she  is  rich  in  a  race  of  artists 
long  extinct  in  Europe.  Before  devices  for  measuring  time 
were  made  to  announce  its  divisions,  men  were  employed  for 
that  purpose;  and  here  "Jacks  of  the  Clock"  like  ancient  sa 
cristans,  grasp  the  clapper  of  church  bells  and  proclaim  the 
hours,  sometimes  by  a  corresponding  number  of  strokes,  but  not 
always  so.  The  Candelaria  officer  attends  to  the  duty  only 
three  times  a  day— at  8  A.M.,  noon,  and  6  P.M.,  and  then  gen 
erally  gives  a  fancy  flourish. 

While  sauntering  along  the  Flamingo  Beach,  one  of  the  nu 
merous  tailless  quadrupeds  of  Brazil  came  out  of  a  building 
near  by— a  peccary.  Attempting  to  feel  its  speckled  hair  and 


170  SKETCHES   OF 

hide,  instead  of  avoiding  me  it  settled  on  its  haunches,  and  ex 
posed  a  terrible  set  of  fangs.  A  negro  approached — probably 
one  it  knew — when  it  crouched  at  his  feet  playful  as  a  kitten. 
These  animals,  when  tamed,  are  infinitely  more  tractable  than 
their  domesticated  relatives.  A  man  passed  up  the  Cattete  a 
few  evenings  since  leading  a  couple  by  a  string;  they  trotted 
close  to  him  like  favorite  dogs.  In  the  woods  they  go  in  troops, 
and  are  dangerous  to  solitary  travelers,  whom  they  have  been 
known  to  attack.  They  make  nothing  of  killing  dogs  ;  and  even 
the  great  ounce  or  tiger,  when  attempting  to  make  a  meal  of 
one,  often  furnishes  the  herd  with  a  repast. 

19M.  Festivals  were  formerly  greatly  more  numerous  than 
now,  though  not  less  than  fifty,  ecclesiastical  and  lay,  are  kept 
up,  to  the  dissatisfaction  of  merchants.  Add  Sundays,  and  one 
fourth  of  the  year  is  lost  to  commerce.  This  being  the  day  of 
San  Jose,  the  public  offices  are  closed,  that  all  may  compliment 
him  at  his  church  in  Dereita  Street  on  the  anniversary  of  his 
birth.  His  espousal  is  celebrated  in  January.  "And,  pray,  who 
is  San  Jose  ?"  I  inquired  of  a  devout  old  lady,  the  very  counter 
part  of  Gil  Perez.  Lifting  her  hands,  and  soliciting  the  Vir 
gin's  protection,  she  in  amazement  asked  where  I  had  been 
brought  up,  and  if  it  were  possible  I  did  not  know  who  that 
great  saint  is. 

"  I  am  not  positive  that  I  do,  senhora." 

"  Alas !  alas !  be  advised,  then,  that  San  Jose  is  God's  step 
father!" 

It  was  now  my  turn  to  stare.  Besides  strange  expressions 
used  by  Romanists  of  the  Old  World,  and  sanctioned  by  heads 
of  the  sect  in  the  United  States,  how  few  are  consistent  as  Bra 
zilians  in  carrying  out  the  idea !  With  them,  "  God's  grand 
mother,"  "husband  of  God's  mother,"  "God's  stepfather,"  are 
common  as  "the  baby  God,"  "the  body  of  God,"  "the  burial 
of  God,"  and  other  authorized  expressions  equally  exception 
able  to  Protestant  ears. 

The  Botanic  Garden  is  celebrated  for  its  collection  of  exotic 
and  indigenous  plants.  Located  six  miles  from  the  city,  it  is 
an  agreeable  resort  on  holidays,  and  there  it  was  arranged  that 
we  should  pass  the  day.  J hired  a  "gondola" — not  a  Ve 
netian  skiff,  but  a  Brazilian  omnibus — in  which  nine  of  us 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  171 

whirled  through  Boto  Fogo,  and  at  length  came  to  a  beautiful 
lake,  exceeding  two  miles  in  diameter,  and  connecting  with  the 
ocean,  on  whose  borders  the  garden  fronts.  We  passed  hand 
some  cottage  residences  by  the  way :  near  the  door  of  one  was 
a  king  vulture  chained  on  a  post.  As  we  drew  near  to  the  Cor- 
covado,  I  was  surprised,  though  aware  of  the  cause,  at  the  sen 
sible  diminution  of  its  magnitude  and  grandeur. 

The  garden  is  situated  behind  the  Corcovado,  and  between 
that  mountain  and  the  sea.  A  neat  hedge  of  Brazilian  thorn 
separates  it  from  the  road.  Many  of  the  trees  present  novel 
features  to  strangers,  while  among  the  plants  amateur  botanists 
might  revel  in  enjoyment.  Gravel-walks,  and  trellis- work  with 
seats,  surround  a  basin  in  which  a  jet  d'eau  plays.  A  fine 
stream,  two  feet  wide,  and  three  or  four  inches  deep,  intersects 
the  grounds,  rushing  over  a  stone  channel,  and  broken  at  one 
place  into  a  miniature  cascade.  It  is  difficult  to  describe  the 
grateful,  the  exquisite  sensations  which  such  a  cooling  stream 
let  in  such  a  place  produces. 

Extensive  plots  are  occupied  with  tea-plants.  Cocoas,  man 
goes,  cinnamon,  cloves,  figs,  cacti,  bamboos,  palms,  &c.,  spring- 
up  every  where.  An  East  Indian  tree  of  the  size  of  the  peach 
produces  abundance  of  an  agreeably  acidulous  and  cooling  fruit 
resembling  small  cucumbers,  but  of  a  pale  straw  color,  and 
whose  section  is  star-shaped.  Bread-trees  abound,  and  so  laden 
with  their  rough-skinned  orbicular  and  spheroidal  treasures,  that 
on  a  lad  laying  hold  of  one  branch,  down  it  came  crashing  to 
the  ground.  The  fruit  is  not  unlike  a  green  pineapple,  but  not 
so  rough,  and  seldom  so  long.  We  met  Senhor  Brandao,  the 
director,  who  told  me  he  had  received  letters  from  the  States 
proposing  an  exchange  of  plants.  He  presented  me  with  a  cor 
rected  copy  of  those  in  his  charge.  As  a  document  interesting 
to  botanists,  it  is  subjoined.  After  cruising  about,  we  rested  in 
a  house-like  arbor,  whose  walls,  roof,  door  and  window  frames, 
are  composed  of  dense  vines.  Erected  on  a  mound,  it  is  ap 
proached  by  steps  cut  in  the  side,  and  carpeted  with  grass. 
Here  we  were  again  amused  with  little  lizards  darting  up  and 
down  the  trees — an  interesting  feature  in  the  heavenly  scene 
around  us. 

While  standing  with  the  director  near  a  dense  cluster  of  bam- 


172  SKETCHES   OF 

boos,  a  brilliant  band  was  observed  coiled  round  the  boll  of  a 
sago-tree.  I  took  it  for  a  riband  of  scarlet  and  other  variegated 
colors.  It  was  a  coral  snake,  the  most  beautiful,  and  reputed 
the  most  venomous  of  Brazilian  serpents.  It  was  disturbed  and 
disabled  on  the  gravel-walk.  A  negro  was  sent  for  a  quart  bot 
tle  of  cachaya,  into  which  the  pretty  cobra  was  put  before  it  had 
ceased  to  writhe.  [This  bottle,  on  the  voyage  home,  was  dash 
ed  to  pieces  in  a  storm,  and  its  tenant  rendered  valueless.] 

To  refresh  ourselves  and  cattle,  we  now  drove  a  mile  to  a 
tavern,  a  low  and  mean-looking  building,  without  any  indication 
of  being  a  hostelry.  After  lunching,  some  of  the  party  laid  down 
to  sleep ;  the  rest  of  us  strolled  three  or  four  miles  toward  the 
Irmaos  Mountains.  A  species  of  black  parrot  hovered  about ; 
other  birds  darted  out  of  the  woods ;  and  one  low  piece  of  ground 
was  alive  with  small  gray  butterflies. 

Here  was  the  common  Brazilian  fence.  Sticks,  generally 
straight,  and  varying  from  one  and  a  half  to  two  inches  in  thick 
ness,  stand  five  feet  out  of  the  ground,  and  about  the  same  dis 
tance  apart.  They  are  the  posts.  The  rails  are  bamboos,  aver 
aging  twenty-five  feet  in  length,  and  one  and  a  half  inch  at  the 
thick  end.  Four,  sometimes  five  rows  of  these,  a  foot  apart, 
are  lashed  by  a  vegetable  withe  to  the  posts.  Wherever  bam 
boos  grow,  such  is  the  planter's  fence.  It  is  cheap,  light,  and 
strong  enough  to  confine  cattle,  and  lasts  for  five  or  six  years. 
A  better  kind  occurred.  The  posts  were  five  inches  thick,  and 
cut  to  a  uniform  height ;  the  rails  two  inches  thick,  and  both 
nailed  and  lashed.  When  the  thorn  fence  is  designed,  an  arti 
ficial  one,  to  protect  the  young  plants,  is  not  required  over  two 
to  three  years,  so  rapid  is  the  vegetation.  Climbing  parasites 
and  vines  soon  render  any  such  boundaries  impenetrable  to  man, 
and  beast,  and  even  birds. 

By  3  P.M.  we  returned,  and  found  a  dinner  nearly  ready 
that  surprised  me  as  much  as  any  thing  else.  A  slice  of  bread 
and  cheese,  with  a  handful  of  mandioca  meal,  I  supposed  the 
extreme  limits  of  the  hotel's  bill  of  fare.  We  had  soup ;  fish,  re 
sembling  large  striped  bass,  brought  ashore  alive,  and  prepared 
in  three  different  ways  ;  boiled  beef;  roast  beef;  fried  eggs  and 
greens  served  together  ;  boiled  chickens  ;  roasted  do.  ;  do.  fric- 
aseed ;  curry  sauce  ;  salads  ;  potatoes ;  mandioca,  dry  and  made 


LIFE    IN   BRAZIL. 


173 


up  like  mush ;  rice  ;  sweet  puddings  ;  sweetmeats  (quince  and 
citron) ;  bananas  ;  oranges  ;  almonds  ;  prunes ;  wine  of  two 
kinds  ;  liqueurs  for  the  ladies,  and  a  dozen  other  things.  Half 
an  hour  after,  strong  coffee  was  served.  This  repast  for  nine 
persons,  another  for  the  driver,  the  previous  lunch  for  the  party, 
and  feed  for  four  mules,  cost  only  ten  dollars.  At  8  P.M.  we 
rode  home,  after  enjoying  a  day  of  unmixed  pleasure. 

CATALOGO  DAS  PLANTAS  QUE  SE  CULTIVAO  NO  JARDIM  BOTANICO  DA  LAGOA. 


Acacia  lophanta,  L. 
Acer  saccharinum,  L. 
Achras  sapota,  L. 
Acrocomia  fusiformis,  Swt. 
Adansonia  digitata,  L. 
Adenanthera  pavonina,  L. 
Aleurites  triloba,  Forst. 
Amygdalus  Persica,  L. 
Anacardium  Occidentale,L. 
Anda  Gomesii,  Juss. 
Anona  muricata,  L. 
Anona  palustris,  W. 
Anona  squamosa,  L. 
Apeiba  Tibourbou,  Aubl. 
Araucaria  Brasiliana, 

Lamb. 

Areca  alba,  Bory. 
Artocarpus  incisa,  L. 

Var.  nucifera. 
Artocarpus  integrifolia,  L. 
Astrocaryura  airi,  Mart. 
Astronii  spec. 
Attalia  funifera,  Mart. 
Averrhoa  bilimbi,  L. 
Averrhoa  carambola,  L. 
Bactris  caryotsefolia,  Mart. 
Bactris  setosa,  Mart. 
Bambusa  arundinacea,  W. 
Bignonia  chrysantha,  Jacq. 
Bixa  orellana,  L. 
Bombax  pentandrum,  Jacq. 
Csesalpineaechinata,  Lamb. 
Calamus  Rotang,  W. 
Carica  spinosa,  W. 
Carolinea  alba,  Lod. 
Caryophyllus  aromaticus, 

L. 

Castanea  vesca,  Gae. 
Casuarina  equisctifolia,  L. 
Cecropia  palmata,  W. 
Ceratonia  siliqua,  L. 
Cerbcra  thevetia,  L. 
Chrysobalanus  icaco,  L. 
Cicca  disticha,  L. 
Citrus  aurantium,  Risso. 
Citrus  decumana,  L. 


Arvores  e  Arbustos. 

Citrus  limeta,  Risso. 

Citrus  limonum,  Risso. 

Citrus  medica,  Risso. 

Citrus  nobilis,  Lou. 

Citrus  vulgaris,  Risso. 

Coffea  Arabica,  L. 

Cookia  punctata,  Sonner. 

Copaifera  officinalis,  L. 

Corypha  cerifera,  Mart. 

Crescentia  cujete,  L. 

Croton  sebifera,  L. 

Cupressus  thyoides,  L. 

Diplothemium  maritimum, 
Mart. 

Elaeis  Guineensis,  Jacq. 

Erythrina  corallodcndrum, 
L. 

Erythrina  crista-galli,  L. 

Eucalyptus  robusta,  Sm. 

Eugenia  Brasiliana,  Lamb. 

Eugenia  Jambos,  L. 

Eugenia  Malaccensis,  L. 

Eugenia  Michelii,  Lam. 

Eugenise,  spec.  3. 

Euphoria  litchi,  Defs. 

Euphoria  longana,  Lam. 

Euterpe  oleracea,  Mart. 

Ficus  carica,  L. 

Ficus  elastica,  Roxb. 

Genipa  Americana,  L. 

Gossipium  arboreum,  L. 

Guarea  trichilioides,  L. 

Guilandina  moringa,  L. 

Hymensea  courbaril,  L. 

Ilex  Paraguayensis,  Hil. 

Indigofera  anil,  L. 

Inga  vera,  W. 

Jacaranda  Brasiliana,  Per 
son. 

Jatropha  elastica,  L. 

Juniperus  Virginiana,  L. 

Laurus  camphora,  L. 

Lauras  cinnamomum,  L. 

Laurus  nobilis,  W. 

Laurus  Persea,  L. 

Laurus  sassafras,  L. 


Lecythis  lanceolata,  Pair. 
Liquidambar  styraciflua,  L. 
Magnolia  fuscata,  Andr. 
Magnolia  grandiflora,  L. 
Magnolia  pumilla,  Andr. 
Mammea  Americana,  L. 
Magnifera  Indica,  L. 
Melia  azedarach,  L. 
Mespilus  japonica,  Thunb. 
Mimosa  Lebbek,  L. 
Mimusopsis  spec. 
Moquilea  Guianensis. 
Morus  alba,  L. 
Morus  multicaulis. 
Morus  nigra,  Poir. 
Myristica  bicuhyba,  Schott. 
Myristica  officinalis,  L. 
Nyctanthes  arbor  tristis,  L. 
CEnocarpus  regius. 
Olea  Europsea,  L. 
Ormosia  coccinea,  Jack. 
Pandanus  utilis,  Bory. 
Phoenix  dactylifera,  L. 
Prunus  domestica,  L. 
Punica  granatum,  L. 
Pyrus  communis,  L. 
Psidium  cattleianum,  Lind- 

ley. 

Psidium  pyriferum,  L. 
Robinia  pseudacacia,  L. 
Salix  Babylonica,  L. 
Sambucus  nigra,  L. 
Sapindus  edulis. 
Sapindus  insequalis,  DC. 
Spondias  monbin,  L. 
Spondias  tuberosa. 
Sterculia  acuminata,  Beauv. 
Sterculia  fcetida,  L. 
Sterculia  helicteres,  Pers. 
Swartzia  Langsdorfii,  Rad- 

di. 

Sideroxilon  atrovirens. 
Tamarindus  Indica,  L. 
Tectona  grandis,  L. 
Thea  viridis,  L. 
Theobroma  cacao,  L. 


174 


SKETCHES   OF 


Plantas  de  Ornamcnto,  Economicas  e  Medicinacs. 


Abroma  augusta,  L. 
Abrus  precatorius,  L. 
Achillea  millefolium,  L. 

Var.  alba. 
Adiantum  capillus  Veneris 

L. 
Agapanthus  umbellatus, 

Hent. 

Var.  albus. 
Agave  vivipara,  L. 
Aloe  vulgaris,  DC. 
Aloysia  citriodora,  Ort. 
Alpiiiia  nutans,  Rose. 
Alstroemeria  ligtu,  L. 
Alstromeria  salsilla,  L. 
Amarantus  tricolor,  L. 
Amaryllis  belladonna,  L. 
Amaryllis  formosissima,  L. 
Amaryllis  reticulata,  Ait. 
Ammobium  alatum,  R.  Br. 
Amorpha  fruticosa,  L. 
Anchusaa  spec. 
Anethum  foeniculum,  L. 
Apium  graveolens,  L. 
Antirrhinum  majus,  L. 
Antholyza  JEthiopica,  L. 
Arachys  hypogaea,  L. 
Argemone  albiflora,  Sims. 
Aristolochia  macrura,  Go 
mes. 
Aristolochia  symbifera, 

Mart. 

Artemisia  absynthium,  L. 
Arundo  donax,  W. 
Asclepias  curassavica,  L. 
Asclepias  fruticosa,  L. 
Asparagus  officinalis,  L. 
Aster  Chinensis,  L. 
Atropa  belladonna,  L. 
Aucuba  japonica,  L. 
Babiana  villosa,  Ker. 
Baccharis  genistelloides, 

Pers. 

Barbacenia  purpurea,  L. 
Basella  alba,  L. 
Basella  rubra,  L. 
Begonia  argyrostigma,  F-is. 
Beta  cicla,  L. 
Beta  vulgaris,  L. 
Bignonia  capensis,  H.  K. 
Bignonia  spectabilis,  Vahl. 
Bignonia  stans,  L. 
Boerhaavia  decumbens, 

Vahl. 

Borrago  officinalis,  L. 
Brionia  racemosa. 
Bromelia  ananas,  L. 
Browallia  elata,  L. 
Browallia  dernissa,  L. 


Buginvillea  Brasiliensis. 
Buginvillea  spectabilis, 

Juss. 

Buxus  sempervirens,  L. 
Cactus  cochinillifer,  L. 
Cactus  ficus  Indica,  Haw. 
Cactus  hexagonus,  L. 
Cactus  melocactus,  L. 
Cactus  pendulus,  Swz. 
Cactus  pentagonus,  Haw. 
Cactus  pereskia,  L. 
Cactus  tetragonus,  L. 
Cactus  truncatus,  Link. 
Cajanus  flavus,  DC. 
Caladium  bicolor,  Vent. 
Caladium  esculentum,  Vent 
Calathea  grandifolia,  Lindl 
~  alathea  zebrina,  L. 
Calendula  officinalis,  L. 
Calla  ^Ethiopica,  L. 
Caliopsis  bicolor,  Rchb. 
Camellia  japonica,  L. 
Var.  alba. 
"     rubra. 
"     versicolor. 

amellia  oleifera,  Abel. 

anna  gigantea,  Desf. 

anna  glauca,  L. 

anna  Indica,  L. 

arica  papaya,  L. 
Cartharnus  tinctorius,  L. 
Oassise,  spec.  6. 
3entaurese  spec. 
3elosia  argentea. 
Delosia  cristata,  L. 
3entranthus  ruber,  DC. 
Destrum  vespertinum,  L. 
Uheiranthus  incanus,  L. 
Chenopodium  graveolens, 

W. 
Chrysanthemum  carina- 

tum,  Schous. 
3hrysaiithemum  grandiflo- 

ra. 
Jhrysanthemum  sinense, 

Sab. 

Uleome  heptaphylla,  L. 
31eome  rosea,  Vahl. 
Z/lerodendrum  coccineum, 

Hort. 
Ulerodendrum  fragrans, 

Vent. 

Clitoria  Plumieri  turp. 
31itoria  ternatea,  L. 
Dobaea  scandens,  Cav. 
Ooix  lachryma,  L. 
Sichorium  intybus,  L. 
3ombretum  secundum, 

Jacq. 


oncuielina  tuberosa. 
Convolvulus  batatas,  L. 
Cordia  hircina,  Hil. 
Cosmea  bipinnata,  W. 
Costus  spiralis,  Roxb. 
Crinum  Americanum,  L. 
Crinum  longifolium,  Roxb. 
Crinum  scabrum,  Herb. 
Croton  picta,  Roxb. 
Cucumis  anguria,  L. 
Cuscutae  spec. 
Cycas  revoluta,  Thunb. 
Cyperus  esculentus,  L. 
Dahlia  frustranea,  H.  K. 

Var.  coccinea. 
"     aurantia. 
"     lutea. 
Dalechampia    pentaphylla, 

Lam. 

Datura  arborea,  Hort. 
Datura  fastuosa,  L. 
Datura  stramonium,  L. 
Daucus  carota,  L. 
Delphinium  consolida,  L. 
Desmoncus  polyacanthus. 

Mart. 

Dianthus  caryophyllus,  L. 
Dianthus  plumarius,  L. 
Dichorisandra  thyrsiflora, 

Mik. 

Dioscorea  alata,  L. 
Dioscorea  sativa,  L. 
Dolichos  Lablab,  L. 
Dolichos  urens,  L. 
DorsteniaBrasiliensis,  Lam. 
Dracaena  arborea,  Lk. 
Dracaena  ferrea,  L. 
Elcphantopus  scaber,  L. 
Eranthemum  pulchellum, 

B.R. 

Eryngium  foetidum,  L. 
"rysimum  perowskianum. 
Srythrina  isopetala,  Lam. 
"upatorium  ayapana,  Vent. 
?ragarea  vesca,  L. 
^ranciscea  uniflora,  Pohl. 
^uchsia  coccinea,  L. 
jJardenia  florida,  L. 
iay-Lussacia  buxifolia, 

Humb. 

iesneriaa,  spec.  2. 
iladioli,  spec.  3. 
Gloxinia  speciosa,  Ker. 
jlycine  precatoria,  Humb 
jlycine  subterranea,  L 
jromphrena  globosa,  L 

Var.  alba, 
jynerium  saccharoides 

Humb. 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL. 


175 


Hzemanthus  puniceus, 

Jacq. 
Hedychium  coronarium, 

Roxb. 

Helianthus  annuus,  L. 
Helicrysum  bracteatum,  D 

Don. 

Heliconise,  spec.  3. 
Heliotropium  Peruvianum, 

L. 

Hemerocallis  flava,  L. 
Hemerocallis  fulva,  L. 
Hibiscus  esculentus,  L. 
Hibiscus  mutabilis,  W. 

Var.  flore  pleno. 
Hibiscus  Rosa  sinensis,  W. 

Var.  rubro  plena. 
"     fiavo  plena. 
"     albo  plena. 
Hibiscus  trionum,  L. 
Hoya  carnosa,  R.  Br. 
Hydrangea  hortensis,  Sm. 
Iberis  saxatilis,  L. 
Iberis  umbellata,  L. 
Impatiens  balsamina,  L. 
Ipomoea  quamoclit,  W. 
Ipomcea  maritima,  R.  Br. 
Ipomoea  noctiluca,  Her. 
Jasminum  flexille,  L. 
Jasminum  grandiflorum,  L. 
Jasminum  revolutum,  B.  R. 
Jasminum  sambac,  L. 
Jatropha  curcas,  L. 
Jatropha  multifida,  L. 
Jussieua  villosa,  Lam. 
Justicia  calycotricha,  Link. 
Justicia  lucida,  Vahl. 
Justicea  carnea,  Lindl. 
Lagerstroemia  Indica,  L. 
Lantana  salvisefolia,  L. 
Lausonia  alba,  Lam. 
Lavandula  spica,  DC. 
Leonotis  Leonurus,  R.  Br. 
Lepidium  sativum,  L. 
Leria  nutans,  DC. 
Lilium  japonicum,  Thunb. 
Liliuin  tigrinum,  Ker. 
Limnocharis  Commersonii. 
Limodorum  TankervillisD, 

Ait. 

Lin  aria  genistse  folia,  Mill. 
Lobelia  Surinamensis,  L. 
Lonicera  periclymenum,  L. 
Lotus  Jacobaeus,  W. 
Lupinus  albus,  L. 
Lychnis  Chalcedonica,  L. 
Madia  sativa,  Mol. 
Malva  crispa,  L. 
Malva  Mauritiana,  L. 
Malva  rotundifolia,  L. 
Maranta  arundinacea,  L. 
Maranta  bicolor,  Ker. 


Marica  semi-aperta,  Lod. 
Melealeuca  ericaefolia, 

Andr. 
Melampodium  australe, 

Loft. 

Melastoma  velutina,  W. 
Melissa  officinalis,  L. 
Mentha  crispa,  L. 
Mentha  odorata,  Sm. 
Mentha  piperita,  L. 
Mentha  pulegium,  L. 
Metrosideros  salignus,  Sm. 
Mimosa  Farnesiana,  L. 
Mimosa  pudica,  L. 
Mimosa  sensitiva,  L. 
Mirabilis  jalapa,  L. 
Morsea  vaginata,  Red. 
Murraya  exotica,  L. 
Musa  paradisiaca,  L. 
Musa  sapientum,  L. 
Mutisia  speciosa,  B.  M. 
Myrrhinium  atropurpure- 

um,  Schott. 
Nepeta  cataria,  L. 
Xerium  oleander,  L. 

Var.  album. 
Xicandra  physaloides, 

Pers. 

Xicotiana  tabacum,  M. 
Xigella  Damascena,  L. 
Nymphsea  ampla,  DC. 
Ocymum  basilicum,  L. 
Ocymum  gratissimum,  L. 
Ocymum  minimum,  L. 
CEnothera  longiflora,  Jacq. 
Olea  fragrans,  Thunb. 
Origanum  inajorana,  L. 
Oxalidis,  spec.  2. 
Pancratii,  spec.  2. 
Papaveris,  spec.  3. 
Parietaria  officinalis,  L. 
Passiflora  alata,  H.  K. 
Passiflora  albida,  Ker. 
Passiflora  edulis,  B.  M. 
Passiflora  foetida,  L. 
Passiflora  racemosa,  Brot. 
Passiflora  serratifolia,  L. 
Pedilanthus  carinatus,  Spr. 
Pelargonium  inquinans, 

Ait. 
Pelargonium  odoratissi- 

mum,  Ait. 

Pelargonium  roseum,  Ait. 
Petiveria  alliacea,  L. 
Petrea  volubilis,  L. 
Putunia  nyctaginiflora, 

Juss. 

Petunia  Phoeaicea,  D.  Don. 
Phaseolus  caracalla,  L. 
Phlox  paniculata,  L. 
Phyllanthus  niruri,  L. 
Phy  sails  Barbadensis,  Jacq. 


Piper  nigrum,  L. 
Piper  umbellatum,  L. 
Plantago  major,  L. 
Plumieria  acurninata,  H.  K 
Poinciana  pulcherima,  L 

Var.  lutea. 
Poinsettia  pulcherrima,  W 
Polianthus  tuberosa,  W. 

Var.  flore  pleno. 
Polygonum  hydropiper,  L. 
Pontederia  crassipes,  Mart. 
Pyrethrum  Parthenium, 

Sm. 

Quisqualis  Indica,  L. 
Renanthera  coccinea,  L'OU. 
Reseda  alba,  L. 
Reseda  odorata,  W. 
Richardsonia  scabra,  Kth. 
Ricinus  lividus. 
Ricinus  communis,  L. 
Rosae,  spec.  22. 
Rosmarinus  officinalis,  L. 
Rubia  tinctorum,  L. 
Rubus  rosse-folius,  Poir. 
Rubus  urticse-folius,  Poir 
Rudbeckia  amplexifolia, 

Jacq. 

Rudbeckia-pinnata,  Vent. 
Rumex  acetosa,  L. 
Rumex  crispus,  L. 
Ruta  graveolens,  L. 
Saccharum  officinarum,  L. 
Saccharum  sape,  Hit. 
Silvia  splendens,  Ker. 
Salvisa  spec. 
Saponaria  officinalis,  L. 
Satureja  hortensis,  L. 
Scabiosa  atropurpurea,  L. 

Var.  alba. 

"     rosea. 
Schinus  terebinthifolia, 

Raddi. 
Sechium  edule,  Br. 
Sidse,  spec.  3. 
Sesamum  Orientale,  W. 
Sesbania  grandiflora,  Poir. 
Silene  armeria,  L. 

Var.  alba. 
Sinapis  nigra,  L. 
Sisymbrium  nasturtium,  L. 
Smilacis,  spec.  3. 
Solanum,  Gilo  Raddi. 
Solanum  melongenum,  L. 
Solanum  nigrum,  L. 
Sonchus  Hispanicus,  Jacq. 
Sophora  litoralis,  Schr. 
Spinacea  oleracea,  L. 
Stifftia  chrysantha,  Mik. 
Tagetes  erecta,  W. 
Tagetes  minuta,  L. 
Tagetes  patula,  L. 
iTanacetum  vulgare,  L. 


176 


SKETCHES    OF 


Tetracera  volubilis,  L. 
Tetragonia  cxpansa,  H.  K. 
Thunbcrgia  alata,  Lod. 
Tigridia  pavonia,  Jacq. 
Tillandsia  usneoides,  L. 
Thymus  serpyllum,  L. 
Tolpis  barbata,  Gae. 
Trachelium  ceruleum,  L. 
Tradescantia  discolor,  H. 

K. 
Tropseolum  majus,  L. 


Turnera  cuneiformis,  J. 
Typha  angustifolia,  L. 
Urena  lobata,  L. 
Vanilla  aromatica,  Swz. 
Vellosia  Candida,  Mikan. 
Vcrbascum  virgatum,  W. 
Verbena  psuedo  Gervao, 

HiL 

Verbense,  spec.  2. 
Verea  crenata,  Andr. 
Veronica  spicata,  L. 


Vinca  rosea,  L. 

Var.  alba. 
Viola  tricolor,  L. 
Vitis  vinifera,  L. 
Yucca  aloifolia,  L. 
Yucca  filamentosa,  L. 
Yucca  gloriosa,  L. 
Zingiber  officinale,  Rose. 
Zinnia  elegans,  Jacq. 
Zinnia  multiflora,  L. 


Mais  uma  grande  collec^ao  de  orchideas  indigenas,  que  fazem  em  muitas  partes 
a  belleza  do  interior  das  nossas  florestas,  muitas  Bromelias,  Tillandsias,  Pitcairnias, 
Melastomas,  Acacias,  e  diversas  outras  especies  valiosas,  indigenas  e  exoticas,  que 
nao  achei  descriptas.  B.  J.  DE  SERPA  BRANDAO,  Director  do  Jardim. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Goddess  of  the  Blind. — Her  Church,  Shrines,  and  Symbols. — A  Slave  consulting 
her. — Interview  with  her  Sacristan. — Ex  Votos. — Our  Lady  of  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope. — Insuring  Friars. — Other  Professional  and  Competing  Saints. — Street 
Images. 

March  20.  Wandering  out  early,  I  brought  up,  I  know  not 
how,  on  the  beach  or  street  of  St.  Luzia :  a  rua  without  houses, 
but  not  without  a  church — one  dedicated  to  the  lady  just  named. 
She  is  the  patroness  of  the  blind,  and  much  celebrated  for  af 
fording  that  relief  for  which  we  have  recourse  to  oculists  and 
eye  infirmaries. 

Stepping  through  the  open  door,  I  found  no  one  within.  Mar 
ble  basins,  in  the  form  of  shells,  for  holy  water,  are  built  in  the 
wall  on  each  side  of  the  door,  and  near  them  esmola  boxes. 
Besides  Luzia,  only  two  others  have  shrines  here.  Against  the 
right  wall  is  St.  John,  and  opposite  to  him  the  Lady  of  Nav 
igators.  She  stands  on  the  deck  of  a  ship,  with  its  broadside 
to  spectators.  A  strongly-bound  box,  secured  by  two  padlocks, 
with  her  likeness  on  its  front,  and  a  slit  at  top,  hangs  by  the 
wall  close  to  her ;  reminding  sailors  that,  while  she  confers  fa 
vors  on  them,  acknowledgments  in  the  shape  of  vintems  and 
milreis  are  expected. 

At  the  farther  end  Luzia  stands  of  natural  size,  holding  two 
eyeballs  on  a  plate  or  saucer.  By  the  altar  rails  are  four  gilt 
candlesticks  of  wood,  each  six  feet  high,  and  on  their  triangular 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  177 

bases  eyes  are  portrayed,  besides  a  pair  of  colossal  ones  on  the 
screen  near  the  front  door,  looking  very  like  an  optician's  sign. 
And  why  should  not  churchmen  hang  out  symbols  of  good 
things  they  deal  in  as  well  as  laymen,  where  numbers  of  their 
customers  can  read  no  other  kind  of  writing  ?  [Luzia's  collect 
ors  carry  with  them  a  silver  eye  for  contributors  to  kiss.] 

In  a  corner  the  handsome  movable  pulpit  stood,  one  of  those 
fashioned  apparently  after  table  tumblers — gigantic  goblets  on 
fancy  stems  and  bases.  They  are  very  light  and  picturesque 
in  appearance,  but,  from  inequalities  of  the  floors,  are  liable  to 
be  unsteady.  Indeed,  I  never  could  resist  the  idea  that  a  ges 
ticulating  orator  might,  in  a  paroxysm  of  ardor,  throw  himself 
so  far  forward  as  to  close  his  discourse  with  a  peroration  that 
would  save  the  sacristan  the  trouble  of  bringing  forth  the  port 
able  step-ladder  for  him  to  dismount. 

It  is  an  old  and  a  current  trick  of  children  to  break  the  end  of 
a  black  peascod,  and  turn  the  piece  back  to  represent  the  cowl 
of  a  monk,  while  the  exposed  pea  resembles  his  smooth-shaven 
crown  :  put  one  of  these  Liliputian  preachers  into  a  swelled 
wine-glass,  and  you  have  no  bad  picture  of  a  friar  in  one  of 
these  perambulating  pulpits. 

A  slave  came  to  the  door,  removed  a  large  basket  from  her 
head,  sprinkled  and  crossed  herself,  and  dropped  on  her  knees 
within  two  feet  of  where  I  stood.  With  her  eyes  on  Luzia,  she 
muttered  her  wishes  or  her  thanks,  rose,  put  her  mite  into  an 
alms-box,  made  another  reverence  to  the  saint,  and  went  away. 
Poor  creature !  she  feels  relieved  by  pouring  out  her  sorrows  be 
fore  the  image  of  one  who,  she  is  told,  has  the  power  to  miti 
gate  them.  I  am  almost  ready  to  reverence  superstition  which 
can  thus  soothe  the  sorrows  of  the  desolate,  and  reconcile  them 
to  a  joyless  existence.  Perhaps  not  her  own,  but  another's  woes 
induced  her  to  call  in — some  purblind  mother,  brother,  friend. 
Whatever  is  the  cause,  blindness  is  exceedingly  prevalent  among 
the  slaves.  It  is  distressing  to  meet  so  often  one  or  more  bear 
ing  full  "barils"  on  their  heads,  rolling  then:  sightless  eyeballs, 
and  feeling  their  weary  way  with  sticks. 

I  had  now  been  half  an  hour  in  the  place,  and,  except  her, 
not  a  soul  had  appeared  to  break  the  stillness  that  reigned  with 
in,  nor  without  but  the  surf.  Within  the  altar  rails  were  two 

M 


178  SKETCHES   OF 

side  doors,  one  partly  open.  What  harm  can  there  be  in  step 
ping  up  and  looking  in  ?  So  I  reasoned,  and  so  I  acted.  The 
left  door  opened  into  a  passage  in  which  were  several  votive 
tablets.  Only  two  had  eyes  painted  on  them.  I  next  crossed 
over  to  the  other  door.  Pushing  it  gently  open,  a  pair  of  eyes 
near  the  floor  glistened  on  me,  and  the  next  moment  came  forth 
in  a  living  head — the  sacristan's  !  Here  had  he  been  seated  all 
the  morning,  on  the  floor,  with  his  back  to  the  wall,  repairing 
mule-harness,  of  which  not  less  than  two  cart-loads  lay  near 
him.  I  learned  subsequently  that  he  was  by  trade  a  shoe 
maker,  and  had  a  family  that  required  his  awl  to  make  ends 
meet. 

I  had  some  difficulty  to  make  him  comprehend  my  wish  to 
learn  something  about  a  saint  who  repaired  defective  eyesight ; 
but  the  instant  he  caught  the  idea  he  beckoned  me  in  front  of 
the  altar ;  closed  both  eyes  ;  inclined  his  head  on  one  shoulder  ; 
moaned ;  raised  his  hands  in  supplication  to  Luzia ;  paused  a 
moment ;  slowly  opened  the  corner  of  one  eye  ;  then  the  other ; 
then  gradually  disclosed  the  full  orbs  of  both  ;  gazed  up,  down, 
and  around  with  well-feigned  astonishment ;  clapped  his  hands 
in  exultation,  and  kneeling,  held  them  up  in  gratitude  to  the 
saint ;  rose,  and  smiling,  turned  to  me.  I  exclaimed,  "  Bom  ! 
muito  bom  !"  And  so  it  was  ;  it  was  capitally  done  ;  nothing 
could  have  better  shown  how  little  true  eloquence  needs  exterior 
helps  to  set  her  off,  for  he  was  without  a  neckcloth,  coat,  or 
vest,  and  had  neither  shoes  nor  stockings  on. 

To  illustrate  the  subject  farther,  he  went  to  where  the  tablets 
were,  and  referred  to  them  as  proofs  of  the  lady's  power.  I 
mentioned  the  "  sacristia ;"  on  which  he  opened  a  door  at  the 
end  of  the  passage,  and  introduced  me  into  a  room  behind  the 
altar.  Here  was  the  great  staple  of  vestries — a  mammoth  bu 
reau  (over  twenty  feet  long)  of  wood,  black  as  ebony,  contain 
ing  the  plate,  wardrobes,  and  regalia  of  the  images.  Its  bronze 
furniture  might  be  shown  as  antiques  from  Pompeii,  so  similar 
are  the  drawer-handles,  key-holes,  &c.,  to  such  things  found 
there.  From  the  walls  were  suspended,  with  votive  eyes,  other 
members  of  the  human  frame  :  proofs  that  the  presiding  patron 
ess  did  not  confine  her  practice  to  one  class  of  diseases.  Here 
were  heads,  arms,  hands,  feet,  and  a  half-length  portrait  in  alto 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL. 


179 


relievo,  all  of  wax.  They  were  ap 
parently  very  old,  for  their  color  was 
something  between  that  of  the  floor 
and  the  bureau.  No  explanatory  la 
bels  were  attached,  each  being  left  to 
tell  its  own  story,  and,  with  one  ex 
ception,  little  could  be  drawn  from 
them.  The  half-length  had  been  col 
ored,  to  represent  the  miserable  con 
dition  the  unhappy  original  was  in 
before  the  saint  relieved  him  —  one 
side  of  the  face  purple,  the  eye  de 
stroyed,  and  its  place  marked  with  a  horrid  mass  of  black  and 
livid  matter. 

There  was  no  telling  from  the  heads  what  their  owners  ailed 
—whether  the  seats  of  the  complaints  had  been  within  or  with 
out — scald  heads,  broken  heads,  weak  cr  deranged  ones.  The 
lineaments  are  disfigured  and  all  but  obliterated.  Were  it  not 
pretty  certain  that  this  is  the  result  of  heat  and  age,  one  might 
infer  the  originals  had  belonged  to  pugilists.  Of  other  wall-or 
naments,  the  most  characteristic  was  an  old  picture  of  a  ship  in 
distress,  and  the  Lady  of  Navigators  saving  her. 

The  artist  now  resumed  his  labors  on  leather  straps  and  pan 
els,  and  I  left  in  quest  of  other  novelties.  Two  sailors  were 
sunning  themselves  at  full  length  on  the  steps  outside,  and 
watching  vessels  moving  over  the  Bay.  If  theirs  was  a  visit  of 
devotion  to  the  goddess  of  seamen — and  it  is  not  likely  any 
thing  else  brought  them  to  a  place  so  lonely  and  so  remote  from 
the  shipping — they  might  serve  to  remind  one  of  Sidonian  or 
Carthaginian  mariners  lounging  in  front  of  Neptune's  temples 
after  thanking  him  for  a  successful  voyage. 

The  unpaved  thoroughfare  of  St.Luzia  has  been  made  by  cut 
ting  away  the  outskirt  of  Castle  Hill,  which  here  extended  into 
the  Bay.  Men  are  still  digging  into  the  red,  tenacious  soil.  I 
passed  them,  climbed  the  huge  mount,  descended  into  the  city 
on  the  other  side,  and  landed  in  Eua  do  Carmo,  where  I  ob 
served  a  street-image  over  the  gateway  of  a  handsome  passage, 
leading  to  the  Public  Library  and  the  Carmo  Church.  Upon  a 
stone  bracket  stands  a  species  of  glass  lantern,  three  feet  high, 


180  SKETCHES   OF 

with  a  large  pane  in  front  and  a  smaller  one  at  each  side.  The 
glass  wanted  washing,  for  not  till  gazing  a  moment  or  two  was 
it  certain  that  the  saint  was  within. 

A  tinman  has  his  shop  directly  opposite.  I  tried  to  get  in 
formation  from  him  by  pointing  to  the  image,  and  naming  every 
saint  I  could  think  of.  I  did  not  hit  the  right  one,  nor  could  1 
if  I  had  been  guessing  still.  Mr.W-  -  subsequently  called 
with  me  on  the  artist,  who  told  us  the  image  was  an  old  one  of 
;!;he  Carmelites,  and  that  he  and  other  neighbors  are  at  the  cost 
of  illuminating  it  every  night. 
"  But  who  is  the  saint  ?" 

"Nossa  Senhora  de  Cabo  da  Boa  Esperanca." 
"What!   our  Lady  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope?" 
"  Si,  Senhor." 

I  stepped  over  the  narrow  pavement  to 
an  esmola  box  fixed  to  the  left  post  of  the 
gateway,  which  till  then  had  escaped  my 
notice.  A  full-length  miniature  of  a  lady, 
holding  a  nosegay  in  one  hand  and  a  baby 
in  the  other,  was  painted  on  the  back,  and, 
sure  enough,  on  a  scroll  under  her  feet  was 
inscribed,  in  minute  letters,  her  name  as  he 
had  given  it. 

This  is  another  of  the  almost  endless  metamorphoses  of  the 
Virgin  and  child — an  affair  got  up  for  the  special  accommoda 
tion  of  Portuguese  seamen  bound  round  the  South  African  prom 
ontory.  By  calling  here,  they  used  to  secure  (and  some  yet  se 
cure)  a  fair  passage  by  raising  their  eyes  to  the  lady  in  the  lan 
tern  and  dropping  something  into  her  money-box. 

The  Portuguese  were  the  first,  and  for  a  while  the  only  navi 
gators  exposed  to  the  dangers  thus  provided  against.  The 
frightened  crews  and  shattered  vessels  of  Bartholomew  Diaz, 
its  discoverer,  prevented  him  from  doubling  Cape  Tormentoso, 
as  he  named  it.  In  the  absence  of  a  proper  maritime  god,  the 
White  Friars  proposed  a  goddess — their  "  sister" — in  the  new 
character  of  "  Our  Lady  of  the  Cape,"  and  Heaven,  by  miracle, 
confirmed  the  proposition  on  this  wise :  A  vessel  was  on  the 
point  of  foundering  off  Table  Bay.  "  Our  Lady"  appeared  in' 
persona,  and  saved  her.  On  landing,  the  men  were 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  181 

surprised  to  find  an  exact  image  of  her  as  she  appeared  at  the 
mast  head.  From  this  "  milagroso  imagem"  all  others  were 
copied. 

There  can  be  no  doubt  that  a  shrine  of  the  lady  was  as  use 
ful  in  Rio  as  in  Lisbon.  It  was  more  profitable.  Vessels  call 
ed  in  here  on  going  to  and  returning  from  the  Indies.  Passen 
gers  and  crews  bound  round  the  Cape  renewed  their  vows  or 
made  fresh  offers  for  a  fair  passage,  and  those  on  their  way 
home  had  an  early  opportunity  to  make  their  acknowledgments 
before  a  due  sense  of  them  vanished.  But,  passing  such  mat 
ters,  certain  it  is  that  the  Carmelites  came  in  for  a  handsome 
share  of  this  species  of  marine  insurance  ;  and  though  they  did 
not  issue  general  policies,  like  their  brethren  of  Boa-Viagem. 
their  business  at  one  time  was  thought  to  have  been  not  les? 
profitable  than  endorsing  all  kinds  of  risks. 

Insuring  friars  have  peculiar  privileges.  Whatever  risks 
they  underwrite,  they  never  return  a  premium  or  make  good 
losses.  There  are  so  many  strange  things  in  the  world,  or  this 
of  beggars  turning  underwriters  had  attracted  notice.  The  Car 
melites  are  an  order  of  mendicants. 

Whatever  happens  to  other  professions,  the  resources  of  fri 
ars  never  fail.  It  is  a  maxim  with  all  who  trade  under  the  name 
and  style  of  a  particular  saint,  that  he  or  she  can  meet  all  hu 
man  exigencies.  At  the  same  time,  the  managers  do  not  hesi 
tate  to  follow  the  practice  of  lay  dealers  in  drawing  custom  from 
other  establishments ;  leaving  their  own  fields  when  in  stubble 
to  glean  in  their  neighbors'. 

St.  Sebastian,  like  his  brother  Roque,  was  originally  a  plague- 
doctor,  but  the  pest  is  rare ;  his  practice  has  become  general 
and  scores  of  holy  competitors  undertake  epidemics.  Anthony  V 
forte  once  lay  in  protecting  houses  from  thieves  and  recovering 
stolen  goods.  He  now  dips  into  every  thing — interferes  with 
St. Brass  in  curing  sore  throats  ;  competes  with  St.  Michael  dor 
Santos,  the  prince  of  cancer  eradicators ;  takes  a  large  slice  of 
the  business  and  profits  of  the  two  lady  protectors  of  seamen  ; 
has  used  up  St.  Goncalo  in  marrying  young  folks  ;  sends  more 
rain  to  planters  in  dry  times,  and  makes  more  poor  land  fruit 
rul  without  manure  than  all  other  friends  to  farmers — a  univer 
sal  genius — a  saint  of  all  work. 


182  SKETCHES   OF 

Then  here  is  the  great  Francis  de  Paula — who,  when  in  the 
body,  knew  not  the  bottom  of  a  breviary  from  the  top,  save 
where  there  was  a  picture — removing  cataracts  from  the  eye, 
tumors  from  the  brain,  water  from  the  head,  and  even  en 
lightening  people's  understandings,  though,  when  alive,  Heaven 
itself  could  not  illumine  his  own.  Yet  his  church  records  prove 
that  in  these  things  and  many  others,  as  driving  away  demons 
and  calming  tempests  at  sea,  he  is  as  successful  as  the  most 
eminent  of  canonized  practitioners.  He  is,  I  am  often  told,  "  a 
very  miraculous  saint." 

To  worldly-minded  people  there  appears  a  lack  of  discrimi 
nation  in  the  distribution  of  these  avocations.  Such  would  as 
sociate  the  Rio  favorite  with  St.  Gertrude,  who,  as  a  rat  and 
mouse  destroyer,  was  unprecedented.  To  Francis  they  would 
give  in  charge  other  vermin,  and  not  have  saints  of  more  deli 
cate  and  refined  habits  asked  to  extirpate  the  most  loathsome. 
But  this  and  other  incongruities  arise  from  the  principle  culti 
vated  by  the  managers  of  every  institution  possessing  a  saint, 
namely,  that  whatever  a  devotee  may  want,  their  saint  can  give 
or  get  it  for  him,  and  that  it  is  unnecessary  to  go  farther.  As 
a  natural  consequence,  some  become  popular,  and  others  lose 
caste  and  linger  on  by  picking  up  chance  customers ;  the  Lady 
of  the  Cape,  for  example — her  shipping  business  is  dwindled  al 
most  to  nothing,  and  she  ekes  out  a  bare  subsistence  by  patron 
izing  a  few  shoe  and  leather  dealers  and  a  tinshop ;  coming  in 
collision  with  her  brother  Crispin  at  one  hand,  and  at  the  other 
with ,  perhaps  St.  Goare,  the  pot-makers'  patron. 

Formerly  there  was  no  threading  a  street  or  turning  a  corner 
without  having  to  compliment  one  of  these  diminutive  divinities. 
To  a  devout  population  they  were  convenient,  as  every  one 
could  perform  an  act  of  devotion  en  passant — merchants  at  their 
doors  could  invoke  a  blessing  on  their  speculations,  tradesmen 
ask  for  better  times  and  prices,  and  slaves  for  any  thing  they 
pleased  except  their  freedom.  To  prevent  disrespect  through 
thoughtlessness,  in  the  absence  of  the  sun,  lamps  were  lit  before 
them,  so  that  no  gentleman  in  going  by  should  neglect  to  raise 
his  hat,  nor  lady  to  make  a  courtesy.  To  us,  these  venerated 
genii  are  but  eighteen-inch  dolls ;  to  Romanists,  they  are  ac 
knowledged  media  by  which  prayers  reach  those  they  represent. 


LIFE  IN   BRAZIL.  183 

It  is  worth  recording  that  the  slaves  have  contributed  to  de 
prive  their  masters  of  these  images — a  minor  retribution  for  rob- 
bino-  them  of  their  homes  and  idols.  Blacks  never  do  any  thing 
by  halves^except  labor,  and,  under  similar  circumstances,  every 
white i^ace~would  imitate  them.  Give  them  any  congenial  sub 
ject  to  cultivate,  and  they  become  enthusiastic  amateurs.  They 
so  thronged  round  the  street  images,  and  so  annoyed  the  neigh 
bors  with  their  orisons,  that,  instead  of  a  city  blessing,  the  little 
genii  verged  toward  a  municipal  nuisance,  and  became  gradual 
ly  removed.  Last  year  several  disappeared,  and  soon  hardly 
one  will  be  left.  T-  -  kindly  sketched  for  me  a  venerable 
one  at  the  corner  of  Hospicio  and  Ourives  Streets. 

Most  of  them  were  perched  up  some  ten  or  fifteen  feet  against 
private  houses.  It  was  and  is  deemed  auspicious  thus  to  put 
a  dwelling  or  a  store  under  the  immediate  protection  of  a  saint. 
It  would  be  less  subject  to  fires  and  thieves,  and  its  indwellers 
to  the  casualties  of  life.  They  would  be  more  fortunate  in 
business,  have  larger  profits  and  fewer  losses  than  others,  bet 
ter  customers  and  more  of  them — the  very  ideas  and  practices 
of  the  heathen.  That  such  buildings  should  have  brought  high 
er  rents  than  others  was  reasonable. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Rain. — Mechanical  Professions. — Labor  versus  Respectability. — ErYect  on  young 
Men. — Building. — Hammer-gamut.— Working  Hours  and  Wages. — Rejoicings 
over  Rafters  — Masons  and  Masonry.  —  Scaffolds. — W^alls. — Antiquity  of  the 

Tools. Plummet. — Hatchet  or  Adze. — Carpenter's  Bench. — Saw  and  Planes.— 

Mode  of  laying  Floors. — Doors,  Shutters,  Hardware. — Pavers. — Lithography. — 
Coppersmiths.— Lamp.— Slave  Artisans.— Merchants.  —  Barbers.— Beggars.— 
Lawyers. — Lotteries. 

March  21.  I  have  now  been  nearly  fifty  days  in  Eio,  and 
more  or  less  rain  has  fallen  on  about  thirty  of  them.  Heavy 
showers  are  now  descending,  accompanied  with  lightning  and 
rattling  thunder.  Last  night  I  thought  the  windows  were  bat 
tered  with  hail,  but  on  putting  out  a  hand  I  caught  no  "stone- 
water."  The  opportunity  is  favorable  for  posting  up  notes  on 
labor  and  mechanical  professions. 


184  SKETCHES   OF 

The  unavoidable  tendency  of  slavery  every  where  is  to  ren 
der  labor  disreputable — a  result  superlatively  wicked,  since  it 
inverts  the  natural  order  and  destroys  the  harmony  of  society. 
Black  slavery  is  rife  in  Brazil,  and  Brazilians  shrink  with  some 
thing  allied  to  horror  from  manual  employments.  In  the  spirit 
of  privileged  classes  of  other  lands,  they  say  they  are  not  born 
to  labor,  but  to  command.  Ask  a  respectable  native  youth  of  a 
family  in  low  circumstances  why  he  does  not  learn  a  trade  and 
earn  an  independent  living ;  ten  to  one  but  he  will  tremble  with 
indignation,  and  inquire  if  you  mean  to  insult  him  !  "  Work  ! 
work!"  screamed  one;  "we  have  blacks  to  do  that."  Yes, 
hundreds  and  hundreds  of  families  have  one  or  two  slaves,  on 
whose  earnings  alone  they  live. 

Dr.  C-  — ,  an  old  resident,  says  the  young  men  will  starve 
rather  than  become  mechanics.  He,  some  years  ago,  advised  a 
poor  widow,  who  had  two  boys  (one  14,  the  other  16),  to  put 
them  to  trades.  She  rose,  left  the  room,  and  never  after  spoke 
to  him,  although  he  had  attended  her  family  professionally  for 
eight  years  without  charge.  He  was  recently  accosted  by  a 
clerk  in  the  Police  Department,  who  made  himself  known  as  the 
widow's  oldest  son,  and  happy  in  a  situation  which  brings  him 
300  milreis  a  year — 150  dollars  !  To  be  employed  under  gov 
ernment  in  the  police  is  honorable,  but  to  descend  from  an  em 
peror's  service  even  to  a  merchant's  is  degrading.  As  an  exam 
ple  of  the  general  feeling,  take  the  following :  the  parties  are 
known  to  me.  A  gentleman  of  eighteen  was  induced  to  honor 
an  importing  house  with  his  services  at  the  desk.  A  parcel  not 
larger  than  a  double  letter  was  handed  him  by  one  of  the  firm, 
with  a  request  to  take  it  to  another  house  in  the  neighborhood. 
He  looked  at  it ;  at  the  merchant ;  took  it  between  a  finger  and 
thumb ;  gazed  again  at  both ;  meditated  a  moment ;  stepped 
out,  and,  a  few  yards  from  the  door,  called  a  black,  who  carried 
it  behind  him  to  its  destination ! 

This  pride  is,  however,  giving  way,  and  the  Legislature  has 
taken  measures  which  will  tend  to  subdue  it,  by  requiring  for 
eign  merchants  to  take  a  certain  proportion  of  native  clerks  into 
their  establishments. 

Thus  taught  to  shun  honorable  avenues  to  independence,  it 
may  be  asked,  How  do  they  live?  On  the  public,  wherever  they 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  185 

can.  But  the  country  is  poor,  and  salaries,  except  the  emper 
or's,  are  very  low  ;  still,  the  government  is  beset  with  applicants 
for  every  species  of  office  by  which  a  few  hundred  milreis  a  year 
can  be  got.  Every  department  is  full  to  overflowing.  Broods 
of  embryo  diplomatists  seek  initiation  in  the  various  grades  of 
attaches.  Swarms  solicit  commissions  in  the  army — in  allusion 
to  which,  it  is  said  the  officers  will  in  time  outnumber  the  men. 
The  Church  is  next  besought  for  the  means  of  genteelly  soaring 
above  the  lower  orders,  but  she  has  shaved  more  heads  than  she 
can  shelter.  Hundreds  of  tonsured  gentry  are  without  profes 
sional  employment ;  obliged  to  seek  out  other  ways  of  living, 
and  fortunate  are  they  who  accumulate  enough  to  buy  a  black 
or  two,  by  whose  wages  their  creature  comforts  are  secured. 
Law  and  physic  are  the  other  inlets  into  which  the  hungry  fry 
throng  for  food ;  but  these  are  crowded,  and  little  room  left  for 
new  comers  to  squeeze  in.  The  great  mass  have  to  turn  dis 
appointed  aside.  And  what  are  they  to  do  ?  Descend  below 
physic  they  can  not  without  dishonor.  What  then  becomes 
of  them  ?  I  know  not ;  but  this  I  know,  that  it  is  distressing 
to  see  so  many  talented  young  men  without  any  settled  plan  or 
definite  purpose  before  them,  and  unfitted  by  education  for  in 
dependent  exertion  in  the  industrial  or  commercial  pursuits  of 
life  ;  lounging  away  years  of  their  prime  in  vague  expectation  of 
public  employment,  living  on  friends  little  able  to  help  them, 
incurring  debts,  and,  from  inability  to  meet  their  engagements, 
accused  of  verifying  an  old  adage,  "The  day  of  obligation  is  the 
dawn  of  ingratitude." 

These  remarks  sufficiently  explain  why  it  is  that  master  me 
chanics  and  tradesmen,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  French  and 
other  foreigners,  are  Portuguese.  The  richest  men  in  the  coun 
try,  the  most  industrious  artisans  and  assiduous  of  store-keep 
ers,  are  Lusitanians.  Brazilians  dislike  them,  perhaps  as  much 
for  the  competence  their  diligence  in  business  realizes  as  for 
any  thing  else.  I  shall  devote  this  chapter  to  the  mechanics 
of  Rio.  They  have  customs,  processes,  and  tools,  which,  if  on 
no  other  grounds  than  their  antiquity,  deserve  a  passing  notice. 

As  two  or  three  new  houses  are  going  up  close  by,  I  have  had 
daily  opportunities  of  observing  the  manoeuvres  of  builders.  At 
first  I  was  puzzled  by  a  species  of  melody,  regularly  executed, 


SKETCHES   OF 

morning,  noon,  and  night,  with  the  hammer.  It  is  the  u  call" 
of  the  men  to  work,  and  the  signal  to  quit  it.  A  man  kneels 
on  a  scaffold  plank,  and  strikes  it,  or  the  side  of  a  beam,  or 
any  piece  of  sounding  timber,  in  such  a  way  that  few  but  a 
practiced  hand  could  well  do.  The  sound  reaches  to  a  great 
distance  ;  and  woe  to  the  slave  that,  ere  the  last  blow  is  struck, 
is  not  at  his  post  with  his  trowel,  his  hoe,  or  his  saw  in  hand. 
The  device  is  in  general  use. 

Twenty  times  have  I  scored  the  notes  as  they  were  being 
struck  off  by  as  many  musicians,  without  perceiving  any  mate 
rial  variation  in  the  music  or  its  duration.  It  was  easy  to  rep 
resent  the  force  and  succession  of  the  sounds  by  different-sized 
dots  and  the  spaces  left  between  them,  thus : 

9*  ••••••••••••..... ..,......,..••••••••••  i 

They  exhibit  what  might  be  called  the  Hammer  Gamut,  or 
Builder's  Tattoo.  To  read  this  metrical  morceau  aright,  it 
should  be  considered  as  composed  of  four  bars,  corresponding  to 
as  many  parts  of  a  short  address,  namely  :  two,  sometimes  three, 
sonorous  and  startling  knocks — a  roll  of  raps  tapering  down  to 
an  inaudible  rattle — the  roll  repeated  in  inverted  order,  and 
closing  with  a  triple  and  emphatic  menace.  Put  into  words : 
"D'ye  hear? — run,  then — quick,  or  you'll  catch — a  thrashing." 

Working  hours  are  from  dawn  to  dusk,  i.  e.,  from  half  past 
five  to  half  past  six,  very  little  twilight  preceding  sunrise  or 
following  sunset.  From  the  rains  and  oft-recurring  festivals, 
mechanics  do  not  average  over  five  working  days  to  the  week. 
The  master  mason  of  the  large  house  going  up  next  door  works- 
full  hours.  He  is  a  Portuguese,  and  receives  $1  a  day  for  him 
self,  from  40  to  70  cents  for  his  men,  and  25  to  30  for  his  la 
borers.  His  assistants  are  all  slaves.  The  carpenter,  also  a 
Portuguese,  has  the  same  wages  as  the  mason.  Most  of  his 
men  are  white,  and  their  pay  varies  from  40  to  80  cents — the 
latter  is  considered  high  wages.  Here  are  no  master  builders, 
as  with  us  ;  they  are  little  more  than  foremen — owning  tools, 
but  provided  with  neither  shops  nor  materials.  Every  thing  is 
prepared  on  the  premises  of  their  employers. 

When  the  walls  of  a  house  are  ready  for  the  rafters,  the  lay 
ing  down  of  the  first  pair  of  these  is  announced  by  a  concert  of 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  187 

instrumental  music,  and  other  demonstrations  of  joy.  Hearing 
an  unusual  noise  one  day,  I  went  out,  and  found  it  came  from 
a  new  building  in  Machado  Place.  Two  rafters  had  just  been 
raised  on  the  second  story.  The  Brazilian,  Portuguese,  and 
some  other  flags  were  flying  over  them.  Black  and  white  ar 
tists  aloft  were  drumming  con  gusto  on  beams,  planks,  and  crow 
bars,  while  hissing  squibs  and  Chinese  crackers  contributed  to 
the  harmony.  This  was  kept  up  till  the  owner  appeared  and 
made  them  a  donation,  when  up  rose  a  rocket  in  honor  of  his 
liberality,  accompanied  with  an  original  fantastacio  rattled  off 
with  hammers  on  girders. 

The  head  carpenter  and  mason  of  J 's  new  mansion,  hav 
ing  got  the  first  two  rafters  in  their  places,  came  yesterday,  ac 
cording  to  ancient  custom,  to  inform  the  family  of  the  fact,  and 
to  express  the  wishes  of  the  workmen  "that  whoever  shall  dwell 
in  that  house  may  be  happy." 

Masons  and  Masonry. — Bricks  are  little  used  except  for 
kitchen  fire-places,  rough  arches  over  doors  and  windows,  and 
as  finishing  courses  to  receive  plates  for  rafters.  (There  is  not 
a  brick  house  in  Kio.)  In  laying  them,  workmen  are  careful  to 
run  the  mortar  into  the  upright  joints,  for  which  purpose  every 
man  has  water  in  an  ox's  horn.  The  water  in  the  horn  is  called 
the  "mason's  ft#z7,"from  the  solidity  it  imparts  to  his  work. 
Were  a  Brazilian  artist  to  witness  a  Yankee  brother  carrying 
up  a  five-story  building,  laying  the  bricks  as  fast  as  they  could 
be  picked  up,  he  would  flee  the  place  instanter,  calling-  on  the 
saints  by  the  way  to  keep  up  the  walls  till  he  got  clear  of  them. 
The  bricks  are  not  hard  burned ;  they  are  ten  inches  by  five, 
and  two  and  a  half  inches  thick. 

The  walls  of  houses  in  Rio  are  exceedingly  thick ;  for  two- 
story  houses,  seldom  less  than  five  feet  below  the  surface. 
They  are  not  in  courses,  but  are  faced  with  innumerable  pieces, 
varying  from  two  inches  to  half  an  inch,  stuck  in  mortar  be 
tween  the  large  stones,  so  that  before  the  stucco  is  laid  on  the 
structure  appears  as  if  composed  almost  wholly  of  these  frag 
ments. 

The  scaffolding  is  on  the  old  plan,  and  secure.  Putlocks  pass 
through  the  work,  and  project  equally  on  both  sides,  though 
supported  by  upright  poles  only  on  one.  Every  five  feet  of 


188 


SKETCHES   OF 


elevation,  a  fresh  platform  of  planks  on  each  side  of  a  wall  is  laid 
down.  They  make  miserable  work  of  lifting  the  larger  stones. 
A  few  days  ago,  eight  negroes  were  yelling  an  African  virelay  for 
nearly  half  an  hour  on  elevating  one  not  over  two  hundred  and 
fifty  pounds'  weight  to  a  height  often  feet,  under  the  direction  of 
the  master  mason,  who  pulled  too.  It  was  hoisted  by  a  chain 
passing  over  a  single  block  lashed  to  one  of  the  scaffold  poles. 

Hammers,  trowels,  hoe  for  mixing  and  lifting  mortar,  and 
round  baskets  for  carrying  it  on  the  head,  are  precisely  such  as 
we  see  in  illustrated  works  of  the  fifteenth  and  illuminated  MSS. 
of  preceding  centuries  ;  such,  too,  as  are  portrayed  in  Egyptian 
sculptures.  The  costume  of  the  laborers,  and  their  mounting 
ladders  with  bare  feet,  also  accord  with  building-scenes  in  Pha- 
raonic  days.  The  shovel  in  place  of  the  hoe  is  a  modern  acqui 
sition  ;  and  the  hod,  of  English  or  Irish  origin,  is  not  seen.  The 
level  is  of  course  used,  but  not  the  plumb  rule.  In  place  of  it, 
an  implement  equally  efficient  and  of  more  extended  application 
is  in  every  man's  hands.  Strange  that  so  old  and  valuable  a 
device  should  have  been  neglected  by  British  and  American 
workmen.  Here  are  sketches  of  a  couple. 

f  A  is  a  plummet — a  small  perpendicular  cyl 
inder,  suspended,  as  usual,  by  a  line  passing 
through  the  axis ;  a,  a  horizontal  cylinder, 
whose  length  corresponds  precisely  to  the  di 
ameter  of  A.  The  line  passes  freely  through 
the  middle  of  #,  as  represented.  To  use  this 
instrument,  press  one  end  of  a  against  the  face 
of  the  stone  to  be  adjusted,  and  allow  A  to  de 
scend  to  any  part  below,  when  the  side  of  A 
^-  will  determine,  by  its  distance  from  the  wall, 
the  deviation  from  the  perpendicular.  A  is  al 
ways  of  brass  or  iron,  and  a  commonly  of  hard 
wood.  In  some,  the  plummet  is  pointed,  b 
shows  the  apparatus,  with  a  reel,  complete,  and  slightly  varied, 
as  sold  in  the  stores. 

Carpenters. — That  in  Spain  and  Portugal  Moorish  customs 
are  inherited  with  Moorish  blood,  and  traceable  in  their  colonies, 
is  well  understood.  On  going  among  wheelwrights,  carpenters, 
joiners,  carriage-makers,  &c.,  I  was  struck  with  traits  decidedly 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  189 

Oriental  in  their  tools  and  processes,  such  as  I  had  not  dreamed 
of  witnessing.  A  hasty  judgment  might  pronounce  them  pecul 
iarly  Asiatic,  but  in  reality  they  were  common  to  the  old  civil 
ized  world.  The  carpenter's  art  in  Portugal  and  Brazil  is  very 
much  what  it  was  in  Italy  twenty  centuries  ago. 

The  first  tool  I  took  up  I  recognized  at  once  as  Roman  and 
Egyptian.  There  was  no  resisting  the  striking  resemblance  be 
tween  it  and  those  in  the  hands  of  chariot-builders,  wheelwrights, 
chair-makers,  coffin  and  cabinet  makers,  &c.,  portrayed  in  The- 
ban  sculptures.  It  is  here  employed,  as  it  was  of  old,  by  all 
artists  in  wood — their  principal  implement,  and  by  the  use  of 
which  an  expert  or  inexpert  workman  is  known.  It  is  the  sin 
gle-handed  adze  to  which  I  refer — the  most  popular  tool  of  an 
cient  carpenters,  and  the  one  by  which  their  talents  also  were 
determined.  Here  it  is  at  c,  in  the  preceding  cut,  consisting  of 
three  parts :  a  blade,  a  strong  oblong  iron  loop  or  ferrule,  and 
the  handle:  the  latter  is  slightly  curved;  the  part  next  the 
blade,  3^  inches  deep  ;  the  part  grasped  by  the  hand,  5J  inches 
long,  1£  deep,  and  1  in  thickness,  with  the  corners  rounded. 
The  end  is  enlarged  to  prevent  its  flying  out  of  the  hand.  Ex 
cept  this  part,  the  handle  is  of  uniform  thickness,  but  here  is  a 
projection  to  support  the  lower  edge  of  the  hand.  The  blade  is 
five  inches  wide,  and  nearly  six  in  length. 

The  shank  is  placed  against  the  butt  end  of  the  handle,  and 
the  ferrule  slipped  over  both,  or  it  may  be  put  on  first  and  the 
shank  passed  in,  when  a  few  blows  of  the  blade  on  a  block 
brings  up  the  shoulder  (seen  in  the  edge  view)  against  the  fer 
rule.  Neither  wedge  nor  any  other  fastening  whatever  is  re 
quired.  It  is  not  possible  for  the  blade  to  fly  off.  The  harder 
the  blows  struck  with  it,  the  securer  it  becomes.  The  ferrule 
is  made  deeper  and  thicker  where  it  grasps  the  shank. 

The  general  outline  approaches  that  of  the  adze  of  the  South 
Sea  Islanders,  the  difference  being  due  to  the  substitution  of 
metallic  blades  for  those  of  stone,  and  a  loop  of  iron  for  a  lash 
ing  of  sinews.  To  these  primeval  implements  some  Egyptian 
adzes  are  allied,  but  others  have  the  blades  secured  to  solid  but- 
ments  of  the  handle  by  ferrules,  precisely  as  this  modern  one. 
(See  Rosellini,  or  Wilkinson's  "Ancient  Egyptians,"  vol.  i.,  p. 
349.) 


190  SKETCHES   OF 

The  adze  is  applied  with  much  tact  as  a  substitute  for  the 
axe  in  squaring  beams,  and  for  the  plane  in  smoothing  them. 
Wheelwrights  dress  spokes  and  felloes  with  it ;  chair  and  car 
riage  makers  can  not  do  without  it.  It  is  a  universal  former, 
and  next  to  the  hammer  in  utility. 

We  recognize  the  same  tool,  and  expertness  in  the  use  of  it, 
in  an  ordinance  of  Lycurgus  directed  against  sumptuous  dwell 
ings.  The  planks  of  doors  were  not  to  be  planed.  With  the 
floors  and  ceilings,  they  were  to  receive  no  other  finish  than  what 
was  given  them  by  the  adze.  We  know  from  other  sources 
that  flooring-beams  were  left  exposed,  as  in  our  ships  and  old 
Dutch  houses,  and  that  they  were  carved,  colored,  and  polished. 
This  the  Spartan  lawgiver  denounced.  The  subject  is  farther 
and  happily  illustrated  by  an  anecdote  of  Leotychides  the  elder, 
preserved  by  Plutarch.  Being  at  Corinth,  he  observed  the 
beams  of  the  room  in  which  his  host  entertained  him  curiously 
and  richly  wrought,  and  satirically  inquired  if  trees  grew  square 
in  that  part  of  Greece.  The  inference  is  clear  that  in  Laconia 
the  beams  were  but  little  dressed.  The  exposure  of  rafters  was 
a  universal  feature  in  the  domestic  architecture  of  the  ancients. 
From  their  prominence  in  every  room  the  Savior  took  occasion 
to  illustrate  one  of  his  most  memorable  apophthegms. 

In  the  antiquities  of  Herculaneum  is  a  representation  of  a 
carpenter's  shop,  including  the  work-bench,  a  piece  of  wood  se 
cured  on  it  by  an  iron  clamp  (the  same  as  now  used),  a  box  for 
tools  under  it ;  a  mallet  lays  on  the  floor,  and  a  couple  of  young 
artists  are  cutting  a  plank,  which  one  holds  down  on  the  bench 
with  his  left  hand,  and  works  a  frame-saw  with  the  other.  His 
associate,  seated  on  the  floor,  grasps  the  opposite  side  of  the 
frame — [see  Herculaneum  and  Pompeii,  tome  iii.,  Paris,  1840] 
— implements  which  correspond  with  those  of  Portuguese  and 
Brazilian  workmen.  Their  bench  is  a  smooth,  stout  plank, 
supported  on  four  diverging  legs.  It  has  no  side  screw  or 
wooden  vise,  but  is  furnished  with  the  device  which  preceded 
that;  and  which,  as  illustrating  the  progress  of  the  arts,  is  worth 
noticing.  Two  stout  slats,  whose  length  exceeds  the  width  of 
the  bench,  slide  in  dovetailed  grooves  (three  or  four  feet  apart), 
cut  across  its  under  surface ;  their  front  ends  are  enlarged  into 
what  may  be  called  jaws.  The  slats  are  pulled  out,  and  the 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL. 


191 


piece  of  wood  to  be  dressed  placed  upon  them.  They  are  then 
pushed  in  till  the  jaws  press  it  against  the  side  of  the  bench, 
when  the  workman,  reaching  over,  drives  in  a  wedge  at  the  far 
ther  side  between  each  slat  and  the  groove  it  moves  in.  Some 
times  the  jaws  are  not  pushed  up  close,  but  are  purposely  fixed 
to  allow  a  wedge  (which  hangs  by  a  string  to  the  front  of  the 
bench)  to  be  driven  between  one  of  them  and  the  plank  or  oth 
er  object  which  is  to  be  held. 


CARPENTER'S  BENCH. 


This  contrivance  is  efficient,  but  clumsy,  and  requires  more 
time  than  the  vise  to  secure  and  release  its  object.  It  is,  how 
ever,  too  refined  to  be  the  original  of  its  type.  It  is  an  im 
provement  on  a  rude  predecessor  that  still  competes  with  it, 
consisting  of  two  stout  blocks  secured  on  the  bench,  one  to 
ward  each  end.  A  deep  vertical  notch  is  cut  into  each  block, 
presenting  fixed  jaws  some  five  or  six  inches  wide  and  as  many 
deep.  Between  these  the  article  to  be  trimmed,  or  plank  to  be 
edged,  is  dropped,  and  made  fast  by  a  wedge.  I  noticed  half  a 
dozen  of  these  benches  at  the  public  works  on  Castle  Hill,  and 
repeatedly  met  them  elsewhere. 

The  hand-saw  of  England  and  the  United  States — the  most 

o 

valuable  of  the  genus — is  never  found  in  the  hands  of  workmen 
here.  The  little  framed  blade — the  universal  implement  of 
antiquity — is  indiscriminately  employed.  It  is  true  that  the 
Egyptians,  like  modern  Hindoos  and  Asiatics  generally,  had  an 
imperfect  instrument  for  slitting  boards,  which  they  lashed  up 
right  to  a  fork  or  other  fixed  object,  but  it  was  little  more  than 
a  large  toothed  knife.  The  old  Latin  saw  is  at  present  the  saw 
of  all  the  Latin  nations.  Planes  are  few  and  old-fashioned. 
Fancy  moulding  ones  are  comparatively  unknown. 

Flooring  planks  are  never  laid  in  single  courses  as  with  us, 
end  joints  being  deemed  eye-sores  ;  hence  they  are  made  to  run 


192 


SKETCHES    OF 


in  one  line  entirely  across  the  floor ;  and,  when  not  concealed 
by  a  partition,  a  number  of  planks  are  interposed  as  at  A — a 
plan  that  affords  no  bond  to  the  walls  at  those  places.  Some 
times  half  a  dozen  planks  are  laid  together  end  to  end,  and  the 
joints  broken  by  an  equal  number,  as  joints  are  crossed  in  a 
brick  wall.  Ordinary  sized  rooms  are  floored  as  at  B.  A  plank 
border,  more  or  less  wide,  runs  round  all. 

A 


The  planks  are  never  plowed  and  tongued,  but  lap  as  at  C, 
which  represents  the  ends  of  a  series. 

I  have  been  thus  particular  in  a  small  matter,  because  we 
have  unquestionably  here  the  ancient  system  of  flooring. 

Window  sashes  are  those  of  past  centuries — small  squares, 
and  no  moulding  on  the  bars  ;  few  or  none  suspended  by  weights. 
The  one  in  my  bed-room  is  a  fair  specimen :  the  lower  half  is 
heavy,  as  if  made  of  iron,  and  when  raised,  care  is  required  to 
turn  the  cleat  safe  under  the  lower  edge ;  for,  were  it  to  fall 
when  one's  head  is  out,  we  should  never  look  out  of  windows 
more. 

Interior  doors  are  large,  of  the  same  heavy  wood  as  the  floors, 
and  without  relief.  Even  in  the  best  rooms  they  are  made  of 
three  or  four  perpendicular  planks  held  together  by  dovetailed 
battens ;  nor  are  they  enlivened  by  furniture,  an  iron  lock  and 
key  being  the  only  fastenings,  and  an  iron  escutcheon  over  the 
key-hole  their  only  ornament. 

Inside  window-shutters  are  universal.  The  uniform  mode  of 
securing  them  is  extraordinary.  A  perpendicular  bolt,  seldom 
less  than  five  feet  in  length,  is  fixed  on  one  leaf  of  a  shutter, 
and  at  its  lower  part  is  a  hasp,  which  drops  over  a  catch  or  sta 
ple  in  the  other  leaf.  The  bolt  neither  rises  nor  falls,  but  the 
act  of  turning  the  hasp  over  its  catch  turns  the  curved  end  of 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  193 

the  bolt  into  a  staple  fixed  in  the  wall  or  window-frame  over 
head.  A  strong  lock  is  attached  to  every  hasp,  and  a  key  hangs 
by  every  keyhole.  In  one  house  I  observed,  in  addition,  a  bell 
hung  to  each  shutter !  This  excessive  precaution  against  house 
breakers  is  an  ancient  trait  in  Portuguese  building.  The  ma 
terial  of  the  floors  and  doors,  etc.,  is  a  dark  red  and  heavy  wood. 
With  difficulty  I  raised  from  the  floor  a  new  inside  door,  its 
weight  not  being  less  than  one  hundred  and  fifty  pounds. 

Carpenters  and  joiners'  hardware  is  chiefly  imported  from 
Portugal.  Of  wrought  iron,  it  is  well  made,  and  far  more  durable 
than  what  English  shops  supply.  It  is  very  old-fashioned. 
There  are  keys,  hinges,  and  bolts  similar  to  those  preserved  in 
the  museum  at  Naples.  Some  good  smith  work  is  done  in  Rio. 

The  tile  roofs  and  gutter-spouts  noticed  in  Chapter  VIII.  are 
purely  classical. 

No  plans  or  sections  are  drawn  for  buildings.  Generally  the 
mason  and  carpenter  are  told  to  make  the  house  a  brother  to 
Senhor  Somebody's,  and  the  windows  sisters  to  those  of  some 
dwelling  pointed  out.  The  work  progresses  slowly. 

The  street-pavers  use  a  short  cylindrical  rammer,  larger  and 
heavier  than  ours,  and  worked  by  three  men — the  "  three-man 
beetle"  of  Shakspeare.  The  signal  of  the  foreman  to  assemble 
his  men  is  sounded  by  a  hammer  on  an  uplifted  crowbar. 

Cabinet  wares  are  well  made,  chairs  of  rosewood  included, 
but  they  are  inconveniently  heavy,  and  not  so  strong  as  ve 
neered  ones  with  us.  Their  legs  are  liable  to  snap. 

The  largest  lithographic  establishment  in  Brazil  is  that  of 
Heaton  and  Rensburg,  in  Rio.  Their  pressmen  are  African 
helots.  Mr.  H —  -  was  surprised  to  learn  that  lithographic 
printers  have  from  $10  to  $15  a  week  with  us.  "A  milreis 
(fifty  cents)  a  day,"  he  remarked,  "is  good  wages  here,  and 
slaves  do  not  cost  us  a  quarter  of  that." 

In  a  coppersmith  establishment  I  found  fifteen  men  at  work , 
every  one  a  slave,  including  the  foreman.  The  proprietor  was 
a  Portuguese. 

Subsequently  I  spent  part  of  another  day  among  the  braziers, 
and  may  as  well  insert  the  substance  of  my  notes  here.  All 
the  copper  is  imported  from  England.  Of  staple  articles  stills 
appeared  the  chief.  I  counted  fifteen  in  one  shop.  Every  sug- 

N 


JJ    I/J194  SKETCHES   OF 


Li 

w  ^ 


ar  plantalion  mjuiiv.-?  one  or  jnoro.  Nests  of  pans,  from  two 
to  three  feet  over,  presented  another  article  in  great  demand. 
Shallow  and  tinned,  they  resembled  such  as  I  had  seen  used  by 
some  lavandeiras.  Piles  of  stew-pans  stood  in  every  shop.  In 
these  and  the  plate-stoves  of  the  country  we  have  fac-similes  of 
the  chief  kitchen  apparatus  of  the  Greeks  and  Romans,  and  of 
remoter  people.  '  I  thought  it  strange  to  find  portable  furnaces 
among  braziers'  wares,  since  handsome  cast-iron  ones  are  im 
ported,  and  clay  ones  of  domestic  fabric  are  so  common,  but 
here  are  so  many  applications  of  copper  and  its  alloys,  where 
with  us  iron  would  be  used  (in  clamping  stones,  e.  <?.),  that  one 
is  irresistibly  reminded  of  the  profuse  use  of  bronze  by  the 
Latin  ancestors  of  this  people. 

Of  smaller  things  few  interested  me  more  than  a  simple  and 
cheap  lamp,  in  universal  use  by  the  poorer  classes,  and  of  which 
immense  quantities  are  in  demand  for  the  interior.     Adapted 
to  burn  any  kind  of  oleaginous  matter,  it  is  quite 
as  well  suited  to  the  hovels  of  Brazil  as  it  was  to 
those  of  old  Rome,  whence  I  believe  it  is  derived. 
It  is  an  open  cup  with  a  projecting  lip,  in  which 
the  wick  rests,  and,  so  far  as  a  standing  or  table- 
lamp,  is  complete,  presenting  nothing  worthy  of 
notice.     Its  merit  is  in  its  pendent  qualities.     A 
curved   (or   straight   and   inclined)    strip,  with 
notches  in  the  under  side,  rises  from  the  back  or 
edge   opposite  the  wick,  and  passes  through  a 
perpendicular  slit  in  a  small  plate  that  is  loosely 
hooked  to  a  pointed  iron  rod.      See  the  figure. 
The  sharp  end  of  the  rod  is  stuck  into  a  beam,  rafter,  etc.,  in 
an  upright,  horizontal,  or  any  other  position  or  angle  ;  and  as 
the  oil  gets  low,  it  is  canted  toward  the  wick  by  passing  the 
strip,  notch  by  notch,  through  the  plate,  till  every  drop  is  con 
sumed.     The  barb,  or  sharp  hook  at  the  upper  end  of  the  rod, 
is  to  suspend  the  instrument  from  the  edge  of  a  shelf  or  table, 
and  to  pass  over  a  nail,  etc.     Except  the  iron  rod,  the  whole  is 
of  thin  sheet  copper.     Instead  of  being  worked  up  into  the  form 
represented,  some  are  made  by  simply  pinching  a  piece  of  metal 
at  the  corners.      Nothing  could  be  simpler,  cheaper,  or  more 
durable,  the  cost  is  only  five  or  six  cents. 


LIFE  IN   BRAZIL.  195 

The  modes  of  working  copper  are  very  similar  to  ours.  In 
deed,  into  none  of  the  old  standard  professions  have  less  changes 
been  introduced  than  copper-smithing,  as  if  the  fathers  of  this 
art  had  perfected  it.  The  tools  in  use  are  such  as  Mamurius 
employed  on  the  Ancylia — such  as  have  ever  been  common  with 
the  workmen  of  Egypt  and  Asia.  In  one  shop  twenty  blacks 
were  at  work,  and  not  a  white  face  in  the  place  except  the 
clerks.  Here  I  observed  three  or  four  marimbas  hanging 
against  the  wall.  With  these  instruments  of  their  own  land  the 
artists  amuse  themselves  after  working:  hours. 

o  , 

Besides  Capuchins  and  other  sacerdotal  artists   that  came 
over  with  or  followed  the  empress,  were  a  couple  of  Italian  cop 
persmiths.     They  make  out  to  buy  a  sheet  or  two  of  metal, 
and,  working  it  into  ladles,  skillets,  and  colanders,  start  out 
and  "  cry"  them  through  the  streets.     H and  I  once  stop 
ped  in  Theatre  Square  to  observe  one  at  work.      Seated  on  the 
floor,  he  was  bringing  into  form  a  couple  of  small  coffee-pots. 
With  no  greater  stock  of  materials  and  tools  than  .are  figured  in 
^i  painting  of  a  brazier's  shop  in  Herculaneum,  he  was  a  lively 
^/representative  of  an  ancient  pagan  craftsman. 

I  have  now  seen  slaves  working  as  carpenters,  masons,  pav- 
^ers,  printers,  sign  and  ornamental  painters,  carriage  and  cabi- 
net  makers,  fabricators  of  military  ornaments,  lamp-makers,  sil 
versmiths,  jewelers,  and  lithographers.  It  is  also  a  fact  that 
sculptures  in  stone  and  saintly  images  in  wood  are  often  done 
admirably  by  slaves  and  free  blacks.  A  little  gray-headed  fel 
low — an  old  African — begs  in  the  Cattete  who  was  once  noted 
as  an  excellent  sculptor,  but  now  is  an  habitual  drunkard. 
The  vicar  mentioned  lately  a  slave  who  is  a  first-rate  workman 
in  sacred  carving  in  Bahia.  All  kinds  of  trades  are  carried  on 
by  black  journeymen  and  boys. 

The  foreign  merchants  of  Eio  struck  me  as  forming  some 
thing  like  an  order  of  monks.  Nearly  all  are  bachelors  of  from 
thirty  to  sixty  years'  standing.  Their  homes,  like  monasteries, 
contain  no  females.  Seeking  to  accumulate  the  means  of  en 
joyment,  they  continue  the  chase  till  the  powers  of  enjoyment 
are  well-nigh  gone. 

Barbers. — Barbers  here  sharpen  their  razors  on  the  cork-like 
pito-wood.  The  leech  trade  is  in  their  hands.  H and  I 


196  SKETCHES   OF 

occasionally  stepped  into  one  shop  to  look  at  the  thick  plank 
boxes,  three  feet  long,  filled  with  a  fine  soft  clay,  in  which  the 
worms  are  imported,  and  in  which  they  burrow  till  drawn  out 
for  use.  Some  are  of  enormous  dimensions.  The  usual  price 
is  twenty  cents  for  each  one  a  barber  applies. 

Beggars. — A  good  old  custom  is  kept  up  by  Portuguese  and 
native  merchants,  and  is  imitated  by  some  foreign  houses.  A 
pile  of  coppers  is  placed  on  the  counter  on  the  last  day  of  every 
week  for  the  clerks  to  give  to  the  poor.  When  the  pile  is 
gone,  the  universal  answer  sends  every  applicant  away :  Paci- 
entia  Deos  Ihe  favoreta.  This  asking  God  to  favor  them  is 
understood  as  equivalent  to  "I  can't"  or  "I  won't."  One 
gentleman  gives  out  two  dollars  from  his  counter  every  Satur 
day  morning.  Beggars  go  their  rounds  on  other  days,  but  Satur 
day  is  their  best  one.  An  old  Rio  rascal  got  rich  by  mendicity, 
and,  to  the  annoyance  of  his  family,  would  not  cease  to  follow 
the  lucrative  business.  I  was  at  first  surprised  at  the  prompt 
turning  away  of  mendicants  on  receiving  the  above  reply.  It 
is  the  same,  however,  in  Spain:  Perdone  umd  por  Dios, Her- 
mano.  A  similar  mode  of  denial  is  equally  effective  in  the 
East.  An  Egyptian  beggar  is  silenced  at  once  by  Allah  yeu- 
zoock,  God  will  sustain,  or  Allah  yoateek,  God  give  thee. 

lawyers. — Of  the  administration  of  law,  complaints  loud  and 
deep  from  both  natives  and  foreigners  are  heard  continually. 
Criminals  are  tried  before  juries,  but  civil  suits  are  determined 
by  judges  alone ;  and  from  them,  it  is  said  openly,  justice  can 
scarcely  ever  be  obtained,  unless  purchased  for  more  than  it  is 
worth.  It  is,  however,  not  to  be  doubted  that  there  are  men  on 
the  Brazilian  bench  as  pure  from  the  pollution  of  bribes  as  are 
to  be  found  any  where  else.  Judicial  depravity  is  confined  to 
no  one  country.  Of  numerous  examples  recently  bruited,  it  is 
not  necessary  to  quote  any,  nor  would  they  have  been  alluded 
to  but  for  the  fact  of  their  elucidating  a  marked  feature  in  the 
ancestors  of  this  people.  "Approach  the  judge  with  feet  in 
hand" — with  a  present  of  fowls  and  game — is  a  modern  as  well 
as  ancient  Peninsular  aphorism.  "Rather  bribe  than  lose  thy 
cause"  is  another.  The  rapacity  of  some  judges  is  still  likened 
to  that  of  the  Abbot  of  Corcuelo,  who,  having  supped  on  a  poor 
man's  porridge,  wanted  the  pot ;  and  to  another,  who,  after  eat- 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  197 

ing  a  widow's  last  egg,  was  not  ashamed  to  ask  for  the  hen. 
In  all  countries,  the  humorous  Gallician's  invocation  may  still 
be  offered  up,  "  God  keep  me  from  the  strokes  of  a  gander" — 
from  a  lawyer's  goose-quill. 

Lotteries. — Gambling  in  these  is  universal.  Granted  for  all 
sorts  of  things,  fresh  ones  are  perpetually  announced.  Boys 
run  about  peddling  tickets  ;  they  enter  stores,  visit  the  markets, 
and  even  stop  you  in  the  street ;  nay,  women  are  sent  out  as 

agents  by  the  dealers.  This  day  two  stopped  at  T 's,  and 

offered  tickets  to  the  clerks.  The  Diario  of  the  9th  contain 
ed  the  plan  of  the  fifth  one  granted  for  the  "Beneficio  do  Obra 
da  Nova  Igreja  do  Senhor  Bom  Jesus  de  Iguape,"  and  advertised 
another  for  the  "Beneficio  da  Igreja  Matriz  do  Ceara." 

The  papers  contain  notices  of  tickets  purchased  for  distant 
customers.  Thus  :  "No.  4395,  of  the  Sixth  Lottery  in  favor 
of  the  Theatre  of  Nictherohy,  belongs  to  Senhor  M.  Pinheiro  de 
Mendon9a,  of  Pernambuco. "  ' '  Senhor  A.  Airosa  has  purchased, 
by  order  of  and  for  J.  F.  A.,  of  Porto  Alegre,  the  ticket  2318." 
Rio  is,  with  respect  to  lotteries,  what  some  parts  of  Europe  and 
the  United  States  were  a  few  years  ago.  As  in  olden  times, 
they  elicit  the  passions  and  superstitions  of  the  poor,  and  strip 

them  to  the  skin.  The  lavandeira  of  J 's  family,  a  poor 

white  woman,  who  attends  regularly  at  the  palace  for  alms,  was 
in  deep  distress  the  other  day.  She  had  lost  her  all,  and  was 
in  despair.  Her  ticket  had  come  up  a  blank !  She  ran  over  a 
string  of  saints  that  she  had  invoked,  vows  made  to  them,  amu 
lets  and  talismans  she  had  worn,  divinations  performed,  in  order 
to  make  the  number  a  prize,  and  complained  woefully  that  not 
one  of  them  had  done  any  thing  for  her ! 

She  attended  the  late  feast  of  St.  Braz,  has  got  one  of  his 
measures  and  medals,  and  has  great  faith  in  their  curing  her 
swelled  throat.  As  she  has  lost  the  sight  of  an  eye  by  gutta 
serena,  it  was  suggested  to  her  to  exercise  equal  confidence  in 
Luzia,  who  has  been  known  to  release  immovable  pupils. 


198 


SKETCHES    OF 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

Mate  and  Cups. — Sunday  Scenes. — Gloria  Church. — Images,  Vestry,  Ex  Votos, 
and  Paintings. — Miracles  in  behalf  of  Pedro  I.  and  one  of  his  Daughters. — Lady 
of  Gloria  and  a  Larangeiras  Absalom. — Chapel  of  the  Ajuda  grated  like  a  Jail. 
— Its  Shrines  and  Images. — A  Penitent  licking  the  Dust. — Public  Notice  of  a 
Procession. — Images,  Angels,  and  Pomp  described. 

MATE,  or  Paraguay  tea,  is  not  very  much  used  in  Rio.  In 
the  interior  its  consumption  is  great,  as  it  is  considered  an  in 
dispensable  preservative  against 
climatic  influences,  besides  brac 
ing  the  stomach  and  invigorating 
the  system.  A  staple  article  of 
commerce,  vessels  in  the  south 
ern  provinces  are  sometimes 
wholly  laden  with  it.  In  the 
prices  current  of  Montevideo  and 
Buenos  Ayres  it  is  enumerated 
as  regularly  as  coffee  or  flour.* 
It  is  shipped  in  tin  chests  cover 
ed  with  colored  paper,  somewhat 
after  the  manner  of  China.  The 
aboriginal  mode  of  preparing  and 
taking  the  decoction  universally  prevails.  A  little  of  the  leaves 
is  put  into  a  small  gourd,  sugar  is  added,  and  the  vessel  filled 
with  boiling  water :  the  whole  is  stirred,  and  a  sucking  tube — 
commonly  a  reed,  with  a  miniature  basket-strainer — is  intro 
duced,  and  the  hot  liquid  imbibed  through  it.  The  two  lower 
figures  in  the  cut  are  gourds :  the  one  on  the  left  has  been  or 
namented  after  the  Indian  fashion,  by  drawing  a  heated  point 
of  metal  over  it ;  the  other  is  mounted  in  silver,  with  a  tube  or 
"bombillo"  of  the  same.  The  upper  figure  is  an  ancient  mate 
cup  in  terra  cotta. 

The  first  knowledge  of  tea-drinking  in  Europe  was  derived, 

*  Yerba  Mate. — En  octubre  se  introdujeron  3237  tercios  de  Parnagua,  786  do 
Rio  Grande :  en  Noviembre,  3275  tambien  de  Parnagua,  y  82  de  Rio  Grande,  y 
en  Diciembre,  solo  89  de  Parnagua.  Total,  7387  tercios. 


Ln4^BRAZ^T^V'^     199 

not  from  China,  but  South  America.  More  than  half  a  century 
elapsed  after  mate  had  been  imbibed  before  the  Chinese  infu 
sion  was  introduced. 

22d,  Sunday.  By  7  A.M.  the  streets  were  alive  with  human 
ants,  with  carts,  ox-teams,  and  pannier  mules.  Met  five  gangs 
of  chanting  slaves,  fifteen  to  twenty  in  each,  bearing  to  new 
habitations  the  furniture  of  as  many  families.  Pavers,  carpen 
ters,  coopers,  and  tinmen  were  busy,  smiths  at  their  forges, 
tailors  and  tailors'  boys  seated  as  usual  on  stools,  slabs  of 
jerked  beef  hung  out  at  some  doors,  and  dry  goods  fluttered  at 
others.  By  a  stream  which  a  cow  might  drink  up  as  it  oozes 
out  of  some  rocks  on  the  Gloria  beach,  a  solitary  lavandeira  is 
scrubbing  shirts  and  spreading  them  on  a  few  handfuls  of  grass 
to  dry.  Men  and  mules  are  cooling  their  heated  bodies  just 
within  the  surf;  one  animal  lies  down  with  its  head  only  above 
the  surface,  nor  can  the  driver  induce  it  to  rise,  so  grateful  is 
the  bath — to  every  shout  it  returns  a  snort.  A  little  farther  a 
negro  is  coming  ashore  with  the  end  of  a  seine,  while  three  as 
sociates  in  a  boat  take  a  sweep  outward  and  return ;  a  naked 
black  wades  out  to  meet  them,  and,  with  his  nude  brother  at 
the  other  end,  slowly  draws  the  net  to  land ;  lads  watching  in 
the  street  now  run  down,  and  passengers  stop  to  look.  That 
line  of  ripples  is  caused  by  the  finny  game,  and  now,  like  flash 
es  of  light,  their  white  sides  appear,  leaping  and  struggling  on 
the  shelving  shore. 

On  sultry  mornings  like  this,  the  noisiest  scenes  are  at  the 
fountains.  The  gabbling  crowds,  pushing  forward  their  "bar- 
ils"  to  the  spouts,  remind  one  of  litters  of  squealing  porkers 
hustling  each  other  in  their  eagerness  for  a  breakfast. 

I  turned  up  to  the  Gloria  church,  and  rested  on  a  low  wall 
put  up  to  prevent  the  unwary  from  tumbling  down  the  steep. 
Here,  on  a  point  jutting  into  the  Bay,  and  several  hundred  feet 
above  it,  the  prospect  is  delightful.  Far  down  are  seen  crowds 
of  mangoes  and  stately  palms,  and  every  where  the  broad-leafed 
banana.  Evanescent  rays  of  green  and  gold  flash  from  the 
breasts  of  humming-birds,  while  butterflies  flap  lazily  their 
wings,  and  tempt  one  to  follow  them.  Two  linnet-looking 
strangers  keep  hopping  on  the  wall,  and  anon  dart  down  the 
precipice  to  a  tamarind-tree,  and  again  and  again  return.  Above 


SKETCHES   OF 

are  chacaras  scattered  here  and  there,  recalling  the  Scripture 
idea  of  a  city  on  a  hill ;  but  not  "  from  the  top  of  Hermon,"  or 
any  other  mount  of  old,  was  the  scenery  more  enchanting. 

The  door  of  the  temple  stands  open,  and  invites  us  to  climb 
higher  and  look  in.  How  different  the  plan  of  this  venerable 
edifice  from  others !  It  is  an  octagon,  fourteen  paces  in  diam 
eter.  The  main  entrance  faces  the  Bay,  and  the  farther  side 
opens  into  a  smaller  octagonal  structure,  in  the  centre  of  which 
is  the  high  altar.  Behind  it  is  the  vestry,  very  much  in  the 
shape  of  a  horse-shoe.  As  we  enter,  two  scalloped  marble  ba 
sins  offer  lustral  water,  and  an  alms-box  of  "  Our  Lady"  so 
licits  subscriptions.  Continuing  on  to  the  middle  of  the  floor, 
a  pulpit  projects  from  the  wall  on  either  hand  ;  we  advance, 
and  two  more  esmola  boxes  present  themselves  ;  the  one  at 
your  left  has  a  sickly  friar's  portrait  on  it,  and  on  the  other  is 
a  still  more  moving  appeal — a  squalid  monk  holds  up  his  gown 
to  show  you  a  wound  in  his  right  leg.  Had  I  not  learned  that 
Ambrose  was  his  name,  I  should  have  taken  him  for  St.  Roche, 
\vho  is  commonly  painted  with  a  boil  on  his  thigh,  and  expos 
ing  it  in  like  manner. 

Farther  on  we  stop  between  the  two  converging  walls  to  look 
at  a  couple  of  shrines,  with  images  large  as  life.  He  at  the 
right  is  Gon9alo,  the  great  patron  of  maids  and  bachelors.  This 
on  the  left,  draped  as  a  monk,  is  Emygdio — he  is  celebrated  for 
protecting  people  from  earthquakes.  A  little  farther  the  chief 
altar  rises,  and  over  it  the  lady  of  the  place,  Nossa  Senhora 
da  Gloria.  She  looks  short,  but  is,  I  am  told,  of  full  stature. 
She  is  fashionably  draped  in  silks  and  frills,  and  wears  several 
finger-rings. 

Now  glancing  around,  the  walls  are  observed  to  be  lined  for 
eight  feet  up  with  blue  and  white  Dutch  tiles,  representing  land 
scapes  and  mythologic  characters.  Action  and  others,  with 
hunting-poles  and  dogs,  are  starting  and  coursing  game.  Cu 
pid  is  out  sporting  too — obese,  as  he  generally  is  when  born 
and  bred  in  Holland,  he  flies  his  arrows  in  a  manner  altogether 
unfit  for  such  a  place.  The  general  impression  of  this  ancient 
temple  is  pleasing.  Columns,  niches,  altars,  candlesticks,  and 
carved  work  are  white  and  gold,  contrasting  prettily  with  the 
blue  pagan  scenery  on  the  walls. 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  201 

The  sacristan  came  in  and  led  me  into  the  vestry.  Its  walls 
are  lined  with  tiles  similar  to  those  in  the  church.  Portraits  of 
some  of  the  fathers  hang  on  them,  and  two  large  and  confused 
bundles  of  ex  votos,  enough  to  stock  a  chandler's  store.  All 
are  stained  with  age.  A  fresh  one  is  not  among  them.  Here 
is  a  large  painting,  representing  a  man  in  a  blue  coat  and  white 
pants,  on  his  knees,  and  a  stout  angel  assisting  him  to  rise ;  a 
lady  is  fast  approaching  him  from  below  on  horseback,  and  a 
female  head  is  smiling  through  the  clouds.  I  had  heard  of  the 
picture  and  of  its  origin.  The  first  wife  of  Pedro  I.  had  much 
devotion  to  the  Lady  of  Gloria,  and  named  her  daughter,  the 
present  Queen  of  Portugal,  after  her.  Pedro  came  with  her  one 
morning  to  mass,  both  being  mounted.  On  coming  up  the  hill, 
his  horse  fell  and  threw  him.  His  wife,  in  the  rear,  at  once 
called  on  Nossa  Senhora  to  save  him  harmless  and  cause  him 
instantly  to  rise.  This  she  did,  and,  to  commemorate  "  the  mir 
acle,"  the  picture  was  painted  and  put  up  here.* 

The  present  emperor  and  his  sisters  were  brought  here  soon 
after  birth,  that  they  might  first  open  their  eyes  on  the  image  of 
the  family  protectora.  It  is  said  the  child  was  always  placed 
in  the  arms  of  the  image,  but  S ,  who  was  once  present,  in 
formed  me  the  emperor,  on  that  occasion,  placed  it  on  the  altar 
only. 

Every  manifestation  of  the  lady's  favor  is  acknowledged  by 
such  presents  as  are  deemed  the  most  acceptable.  Several  sets 
of  diamond  necklaces  and  ear-rings  have  been  given  her,  the 
sleeves  of  her  gown  are  united  at  the  wrists  with  diamond  but 
tons.  Dona  Januaria  (Joinville's  wife),  when  sick  a  few  years 
ago,  vowed  her  "  richest  jewel"  if  Senhora  da  Gloria  would  re 
store  her  to  health.  Yon  diamond  brooch  on  her  bosom  is  the 
gem  earned  and  paid  on  that  occasion. 

This  wooden  deosa  has  a  splendid  head  of  hair.  It  is  the 
last  of  a  series  of  rapes  of  locks  committed  on  her  account. 

When  the  brother  of  Senhor  P.  L a,  a  young  gentleman  of 

my  acquaintance,  was  seven  years  old,  his  hair  reached  more 

*  "  A  igreja  de  Nossa  Senhora  da  Gloria,  muito  visitado  pila  primeira  impera- 
triz  do  Brazil,  e  muito  da  sua  devo^ao,  que  buscou  a  sagrada  imagem  da  Senhora 
da  Gloria  para  protectora  da  sua  filha  primogenita." — Umverso  Pittoresco,  tomo  in., 
374.  Lisboa,  1844. 


202  SKETCHES   OF 

than  half  way  down  his  back.  His  mother,  having  great  devo 
tion  to  Nossa  Senhora,  sheared  off  the  silken  spoils,  and  offered 
them  "as  an  act  of  faith"  to  herr  little  thinking  how  literally 
she  was  copying  the  practice  of  heathen  dames.  The  locks  were 
sent  to  a  French  hair-dresser,  who  wrought  them  into  a  wig. 
It  was  brought  here,  laid  in  due  form  before  the  lady,  when  the 
priest  reverently  removed  her  old  wig  and  covered  her  with  the 
flowing  tresses  of  the  Larangeiras  Absalom. 

On  returning,  I  passed,  as  I  do  almost  daily,  the  Ajuda  Nun 
nery.  Through  one  of  the  two  heavy  doors  in  the  high  dead 
wall  we  went  on  the  10th  instant.  The  other  opens  into  the 
chapel,  and  this  is  the  first  time  I  have  seen  the  leaves  thrown 
back.  Let  us  step  in.  If  we  don't  get  a  sight  of  the  nuns,  we 
may  perhaps  hear  their  voices,  or  at  least  learn  how  it  is  that, 
when  present  at  mass,  they  are  invisible. 

Ascending  a  few  steps  above  the  pavement,  we  cross  the  sa 
cred  threshold.  Few  persons  are  within,  and  no  priest  in  sight. 
The  room  is  a  long  and  high  one  ;  its  arched  ceiling  can  not  be 
less  than  thirty  feet  above  the  stone  floor.  One  end  is,  as  us 
ual,  taken  up  with  the  altar  dedicated  to  the  presiding  genius — 
the  Lady  of  Ajuda.  The  opposite  end  is  startling — a  vertical 
wall  of  iron  work,  three  stories  high !  The  bars  are  inch-bolts 
passing  through  loops  forged  in  cross  ones,  leaving  spaces  three 
inches  square  between  them.  The  uppermost  story  seems  of 
finer  texture. 

Behind  this  lattice-work  the  vestals  attend  mass,  yet  no  one 
can  behold  them,  nor  can  they  steal  a  peep  at  people  here.  Be 
tween  them  and  the  grating  hangs  a  black  linen  curtain  that  de 
fies  mortal  vision.  Here  am  I  close  to  the  bars,  and  can  no 
more  see  through  it  than  through  a  plate  of  metal,  nor  can  it  be 
pushed  aside ;  for,  besides  being  secured  to  the  walls  and  floor, 
it  is  four  feet  from  the  grating ;  and  I  am  told  by  one  who  knows 
that  a  similar  screen  of  metal  keeps  the  nuns  at  an  equal  dis 
tance.  Tons  of  iron  bars  to  prevent  egress  and  ingress  !  Why, 
this  is  Newgate ;  if  not,  'tis  Bedlam,  for  who  but  monomaniacs 
could  introduce  such  things  into  the  house  and  church  of  Jesus  ! 

Turning  our  backs,  as  we  ought,  to  the  grating,  the  whole  in 
terior  of  the  chapel  is  before  us.  Here  are  six  shrines  besides 
the  chief  one,  three  against  each  side  wall.  This  one  close  to 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  203 

us  on  the  left  is  Tereza's,  and  there  she  stands,  the  stoutest 
lady  saint  I  have  yet  met  with.  She  is  tall  enough  for  wife  to 
Saul.  Her  throat  is  covered,  and  her  chin  tied  up,  as  nun's 
chins  commonly  are  ;  but  the  rouge  on  her  face,  and  her  gown 
half  covered  with  gold  (leaf),  are  not  in  accordance  with  her 
vows.  Several  favorite  male  recluses  attend  her,  among  them 
Anthony  and  Francis  de  Paula — represented  in  statuettes.  The 
next  shrine  to  Tereza  is  St.  Anne's,  who  is  giving  her  young 
daughter  a  lesson  in  reading.  A  little  St.  Michael  stands  on 
one  side,  and  St.  Barbara  on  the  other.  This  last  lady  is,  ac 
cording  to  the  Compendio  de  Oi^oes,  "a  great  protectress 

against   thunderbolts."      At   the   next   shrine  is   a  full-sized 

o 

image  of  Christ,  in  a  half  stooping  posture,  crowned  with 
thorns,  the  hands  crossed  and  bound.  Blood  trickles  over 
the  pallid  face,  the  knees  are  bruised,  and  the  entire  body  more 
or  less  covered  with  gore.  This  image  is  carried  in  public 
processions. 

The  opposite  shrine  (on  the  right)  is  dedicated  to  "  the  sacred 
heart,"  which,  with  its  auricles,  veins,  etc.,  is  carved  in  high 
relief,  and  colored  most  sanguifluously.  Two  male  attendants 
guard  it — one  who,  of  all  the  Church's  heroes,  put  on  the  sol 
dier  most — her  Suwaroif — Dominic.  There  he  appears,  with 
shaven  crown,  bare  feet  and  neck,  and  armed  with  a  rosary, 
from  which  a  cross  like  a  dagger  hangs.  He  extirpated  heresy 
and  heretics  together.  The  altar  of  Jose  faces  that  of  Anne. 
Besides  "the  Baby  God"  in  his  arms,  he  grasps  a  stick  deco 
rated  with  flowers  and  ribbons,  because  he  had  one  which  bud- 
ed  like  Aaron's.  "  Of  good  days  for  confession,  his  anniversary 
is  one  of  the  best." 

The  next  shrine  faces  Tereza's ;  it  is  that  of  John  of  Nepomu- 
ceno.  A  professor  of  divinity  and  canon  law  in  the  University 
of  Prague,  he  flourished  in  the  14th  century,  and  wrought  so 
many  miracles,  "  such  as  the  wonderful  preservation  of  the  city 
of  Nepomuc  from  the  plague,  and  the  cure  of  diseased  persons 
given  up  by  physicians,"  that  he  was  canonized,  and  added  to 
the  host  of  heavenly  solicitors  which  the  Church  retains  to 
plead  for  her  earthly  clients.  As  usual,  several  small  friends 
attend  him.  One  is  Apollonia,  and  another  might  be  taken  for 
"  St.  John  the  Dwarf."  In  the  long  catalogue  of  Johns,  Butler 


204  SKETCHES   OF 

has  such  a  saint,  and  another  whom  these  little  folks  still  more 
resemble,  "St.  John  the  Silent." 

Of  the  seven  altars,  only  one  was  approached  professionally, 
viz.,  the  last.  A  well-dressed  man  of  thirty-five  or  forty  came 
in,  dropped  on  his  knees  before  the  Bohemian  doctor,  to  whom 
lie  raised  his  eyes  for  a  minute  or  more,  broke  into  a  low  mur 
mur,  and  suddenly  fell  flat  on  his  face.  He  was  within  eight 
feet  of  me,  and  supposing  he  had  fainted,  I  sprang  toward  him, 
when  lo !  he  was  kissing  the  floor  and  whispering  to  it.  I 
drew  back,  and  he  shortly  crept  on  his  hands  and  knees  from 
one  end  of  the  altar  to  the  other.  Then  addressing  the  saint, 
he  brought  his  mouth  to  the  ground  a  second  time;  he  next 
wriggled  himself  on  his  knees  to  the  centre  of  the  altar,  and 
once  more  saluted  the  floor.  He  rose,  wiped  his  dusty  lips, 
rubbed  down  his  pants,  picked  up  his  hat,  and  bending  his  right 
knee  nearly  to  the  floor  in  reverence  to  the  saint,  drew  sidelong 
to  the  door,  and  departed. 

Mentioning  what  I  had  seen  to  a  native  lady,  she  observed 
that  he  had  probably  been  required  thus  to  humble  himself  by 
way  of  penance.  But  why  kiss  the  dust  at  the  feet  of  the  Bo 
hemian  in  preference  to  more  ancient  intercessors  ?  She  could 
not  say,  except  that  St.  John  of  Nepomuceno  is  a  powerful  ad 
vocate,  and  has  many  devotees  among  the  respectable  classes. 

My  surprise  was  great  at  the  beginning  of  the  man's  devo 
tions,  but  it  was  heightened  at  their  close.  While  they  were 
progressing,  I  felt  for  him  as  for  one  whose  heart  was  torn  with 
anguish,  and  his  face  pale  and  suffused  with  tears.  I  was 
dreaming.  He  rose  from  his  knees  as  if  he  had  never  been  on 
them,  wiped  his  mouth  as  if  he  had  just  taken  a  drink,  and 
dusted  his  clothes  as  if  shaking  off  crumbs  of  a  lunch. 

27t/i.  This  is  the  first  of  the  Setanaria — seven  days  dedi 
cated  to  the  seven  griefs  of  Our  Lady.  The  papers  announce 
processions.  One  comes  off  to-day  from  the  Church  of  Bom 
Jesus  in  Soap  Street.  The  official  advertisement,  after  request 
ing  the  occupants  of  dwellings  in  certain  streets  to  remove  ob 
structions,  concludes  thus  :  "It  is  recommended  with  much  so 
licitude  to  our  beloved  sisters,  and  other  devout  persons,  to  be 
punctual  in  preparing  and  sending  their  angels,  in  order  to  im 
part  greater  splendor  to  the  procession. 

"M.  A.  PICAN90,  Secretary.'' 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  205 

At  4  P.M. — the  hour  announced — I  reached  the  church  in 
the  long  and  narrow  lane,  now  covered  with  mango  leaves. 
The  doors  were  closed,  but  a  couple  of  soldiers,  with  bayonets, 
stood  by  the  vestry  door.  I  passed  in.  I  found  the  place 
crowded  with  brothers,  busy  as  artists  in  a  theatre  just  before 
the  curtain  rises.  In  an  inner  passage  were  rows  of  votive  tab 
lets  and  waxen  offerings.  A  troop  of  cavalry  arrived,  and  pres 
ently  a  long  line  of  infantry,  with  music  and  banners.  I  secured 
a  stand  in  a  private  entry  facing  the  church  door,  which  at 
length  was  thrown  open,  and  showed  the  interior  a  blaze  of 
waxen  lights.  Above  the  shoal  of  heads  a  swallow-tailed  crim 
son  banner  came  forth,  accompanied  by  tassel-holders,  and  hav 
ing  on  it  the  initials  of  the  senate  and  people  of  pagan  Rome — 
S.  P.  Q.  R,.  A  company  in  albs,  with  five-feet  candles  (unlit), 
issued,  and  formed  in  line ;  a  silver  crucifix,  between  two  su 
perb  mourning  bouquets,  followed,  and  then  more  candle-bear 
ers.  Now  something  fills  the  door,  and  for  a  moment  hides 
the  light.  It  is  a  platform  on  six  men's  shoulders,  and  upon  it 
a  man  bending  forward  on  one  knee.  Dressed  in  a  russet 
gown,  his  pale  face  contrasts  with  his  black  locks.  Bearing  an 
enormous  cross,  he  personates  Christ  on  the  way  to  Calvary. 
He  has  reached  the  street,  and  stops  within  five  feet  of  me. 
Why  I  the  figure  is  an  image,  which  till  this  moment  I  had  no 
idea  of,  so  naturally  it  appears.*  The  military  present  arms, 
and  receive  it  with  a  flourish  of  music.  It  passes  on,  and  see ! 
how  natural  the  sole  of  the  right  foot  and  portion  of  the  leg 
uncovered  by  the  skirts  of  the  gown ! 

Now  smaller  figures  appear,  and  certainly  not  automatons 
— a  troop  of  fluttering,  smiling,  black-eyed  angels,  whose  cupid- 
formed  and  papilio-painted  wings  open  and  close  behind  them. 
Some  are  enveloped  in  purple  clouds!  No  two  are  alike  in 
dress  and  ornaments.  Each  is  led  by  a  brother,  and  carries  a 
symbol  of  the  crucifixion ;  one  a  reed,  another  a  spear,  a  third 
a  cup,  a  fourth  a  scourge,  a  fifth  dice,  etc.  They  walk  two 
abreast,  and  every  couple  is  preceded  by  candle-bearers. 

Another  image  issues — a  female,  full  seven  feet  in  height. 
"  Nossa  Senhora"  is  whispered  about.  They  have  got  her  safe- 

*  In  this  and  other  processions  living  characters  perform  various  parts  in  the 
drama. 


206  SKETCHES  OF 

ly  into  the  street,  and  for  a  while  she  stands  close  to  me,  re 
ceiving  the  salutations  of  the  soldiers.  Her  handsome  face  is 
bent  down,  her  hands  are  folded  on  her  bosom,  from  which  pro 
ject  the  handle  and  part  of  a  sword-blade.  A  deep  purple 
robe  thrown  over  her  shoulders  reaches  to  her  feet.  The  plat 
form  is  richer  than  the  other ;  its  panels  are  gilt,  cypress  plants 
rise  at  the  corners,  and  the  green  mound  she  stands  on  is  set 
off  with  flowers.  Silver  lanterns  are  borne  aloft ;  more  tiny  ce 
lestials  skip  down ;  two  tall  negroes,  bare-legged,  with  band 
boxes  on  their  heads,  now  fall  in,  and  become  conspicuous 
members  of  the  pageant. 

A  flourish  of  trumpets  and  a  swarm  of  alb'd  men  come  forth, 
followed  by  a  rectangular  canopy,  beneath  which  are  newly- 
shaven  monks  and  priests — one  carrying  before  him  a  vase  con 
taining  the  Host.  As  it  draws  near,  the  people  kneel ;  the  troops 
to  a  man  are  down,  and  dare  not  rise  till  it  gets  past  them. 
More  angels,  brothers,  and  candles  appear,  and  finally  the  troops 
wheel  in  and  close  the  rear.  The  whole  is  now  in  motion. 
The  band  strikes  up,  and  to  the  tune  the  soldiers  march,  and 
rock  their  bodies  to  and  fro  as  if  they  were  in  liquor.  The  mo 
tion  is  one  enforced  upon  them. 

An  hour  later  I  met  the  procession  in  Dereita  Street.  The 
images  were  coming  out  of  the  church  of  San  Jose.  I  was  not 
aware  that  they  were  to  visit  it,  or  I  would  have  witnessed  the 
part  assigned  to  Joseph.  As  it  drew  near,  it  was  headed  by  a 
character,  who  had  escaped  my  notice  in  the  throng  in  Soap 
Street,  enveloped  in  a  dull  brown  gown,  secured  round  his  waist 
with  a  common  rope  ;  a  hood,  or  cowl,  concealed  both  head  and 
face,  openings  being  cut  in  it  for  the  mouth  and  eyes.  With 
folded  arms  and  stooping  gait  he  strode  on,  a  very  suspicious- 
looking  fellow.  He  represents  a  Roman  officer — a  masked  ex 
ecutioner.  The  monk  (I  am  told  he  is  one)  performed  the  part 
well. 

Twilight  had  now  set  in,  and  soon  every  wax  torch  would  be 
kindled  as  by  magic ;  but  I  was  tired,  and  turned  homeward, 
gratified  at  having  witnessed  a  specimen,  though  a  meagre  one, 
of  those  ecclesiastico-histrionic  entertainments  which  in  dark 
ages  won  over  heathens  to  the  faith.  From  the  beginning  to 
the  close,  the  soldiers,  officers,  and  men  sling  their  caps  by 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  207 

their  sides,  and  the  numerous  brotherhoods  leave  their  hats  at 
home.  I  counted  fifty  angels.  Some  carried  censer  boxes  and 
some  purple  flowers.  They  are  girls  from  six  to  eight  years 
old,  and  the  prettiest  that  can  be  procured.  Their  parents  vie 
with  one  another  in  furnishing  the  richest  dresses.  Their  faces 
are  painted,  and  supplemental  tresses  adde.d  where  wanting. 
Some  are  prepared  by  professional  costumers.  On  their  heads 
were  crowns,  coronets,  plumes,  wreaths,  etc.  One  resembled  a 
young  Minerva,  wearing  a  glistening  helmet,  a  red  boddice  with 
blue  skirts,  scarlet  boots,  and  crimson  stockings.  Some  few 
were  draped  in  white,  and  wholly  free  from  tawdry.  Their 
irocks,  exceedingly  short,  are  expanded  by  fine  wire,  and  have 
quite  an  airy  motion,  such  as  is  imparted  by  the  same  means  to 
their  wings  and  clouds.  The  latter  are  of  colored  gauze  stretch 
ed  over  shapeless  frames  that  spring  from  and  return  to  the 
back  part  of  the  dress.  In  a  word,  these  little  misses  are  fitted 
for  the  parts  they  play  in  much  the  same  way  and  with  equal 
artistic  skill  as  theatrical  fairies. 

The  bearers  of  the  images  carry  staves  in  manner  of  walking- 
sticks,  each  having  a  metallic  fork  at  the  top  resembling  the 
letter  U.  Whenever  the  procession  stops,  these  are  slipped  un 
der  the  bearing-poles,  and  thus  relieve  the  bearers.  Not  till  I 
observed  this  did  I  fairly  comprehend  the  bier-scene  in  Don 
Quixote. 


208  SKETCHES    OF 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

All  Fools'  Day. — Streets  flooded. — Breaking  down  Mountains. — Notices  of  Festi 
vals. — Flying  Visit  to  Francis  Paula,  St.  Anne,  Joaquim,  St.  Rita,  Born  Jesus, 
and  the  Candelaria. — No  Animal  Oils  burned  in  Churches. — Carmelite  Proces 
sion  with  full-grown  Images. — The  Nimbus  and  its  curious  Origin. 

April  1.  "All  fools'  day"  is  kept  up  with  some  of  the  spirit 
of  past  times,  but  not  comparable  to  the  frolics  of  the  old  "  feast 
of  fools" — the  parent  institution  ;  itself  derived  from  a  Roman, 
and  more  remotely  from  a  Hindoo  saturnalia. 

Kain  pouring  down  last  night  has  cooled  the  air  to  78°.  Aft 
er  breakfast,  indications  of  fine  weather  tempted  me  out,  but  ere 
noon  three  several  showers  flooded  the  streets.  Men  and  boys, 
with  umbrellas,  rode  upright  on  negroes'  shoulders,  and  in  the 
rear  of  the  Paula  Church  a  horse  was  employed  to  transfer  pas 
sengers  across  the  street :  to  keep  their  legs  out  of  the  stream, 
they  rested  them  on  him  in  a  kneeling  posture. 

It  is  worth  a  ducking  to  be  abroad  in  such  weather,  if  only  to 
observe  pedestrians  run  the  gauntlet  between  balcony-spouts 
and  roof-gutters  !  Shot  at  right  and  left  from  single  and  double 
tiers  of  copper  guns  pointed  from  window-sills,  and  when,  to  get 
out  of  their  range  by  springing  into  the  middle  of  the  street,  to 
be  instantly  driven  back  by  douches  from  the  roofs  which  none 
but  hydropathic  men  can  stand.  When  Rio  was  built  the 
Flavian  god  must  have  been  architect  in  disguise,  and  contrived 
these  liquid  muskets  to  exercise  his  troops  in  gunnery.  They 
vary  as  in  old  armories  :  some  flaring  at  their  mouths,  like  blun 
derbusses,  scattering  wide  the  shot ;  others  are  contracted,  and 
project  the  missiles  more  compact  and  rifle-fashion. 

A  few  years  ago  several  houses  at  the  base  of  Castle  Hill 
were  destroyed  by  the  rain  loosing  an  impending  mass  of  the 
tenacious  soil,  which  fell  and  buried  them.  I  may  as  well  men 
tion  here  a  simple  and  philosophical  mode  of  breaking  down 
mountains  of  similar  material  in  some  of  the  mining  districts  of 
Brazil.  Wells  are  dug  into  them,  and,  during  the  rainy  season, 
filled  with  water  by  means  of  gutters.  By  this  device  the  hy- 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  20(J 

drostatic  pressure  of  the  liquid  columns  forces  off  masses  from 
the  faces  of  mountains  which  would  require  hundreds  of  men 
for  months  to  accomplish  with  the  mattock  and  shovel. 

2d.  The  season  for  ecclesiastical  performances  has  set  in  in 
earnest.  The  papers  are  charged  with  advertisements  ;  e.  g. : 
The  Paula  committee  inform  the  public  that  the  anniversary  of 
their  saint  will  be  celebrated  this  evening.  Another  notice 
runs  thus  :  "  On  Friday  of  Triumph,  April  3,  will  be  celebrated, 
with  all  pomp  and  decency,  the  festival  of  our  Lady  of  Griefs 
before  her  miraculous  image,  which  the  holy  father,  Pope  Pius 
VI. ,  consecrated,  and  which  is  preserved  and  venerated  in  the 

Church  of  the  Candelaria On  the  day  of  the 

feast,  the  brethren  who  serve  the  holy  image  and  implore  its  aid 
[implorar  o  seu  auxilio]  will  find  the  books  at  the  entrance  of  the 
church."  The  Bom  Jesus  committee  offer  the  following  rich 
bill  at  their  establishment:  "The  solemnity  of  our  Lady  of 
Pains  on  the  3d  instant,  procession  of  Palms  on  the  5th,  a  pro 
cession  on  the  9th,  the  burial  of  God  on  the  10th,  allelulia  and 
blessing  the  great  paschal  candle  on  the  llth,  and  on  the  12th 
the  most  religious  and  devout  act  of  the  coronation  of  Our 
Lady." 

A  gloomy,  threatening  day ;  I  did  not  care  to  repeat  the 
splashing  travels  of  yesterday,  but  the  rain  held  off,  and  the 
Paula  fete  was  celebrated  with  much  eclat.  Illumined  with 
over  a  thousand  waxen  lights,  and  fitted  up  with  new  silk  and 
damask  tapestry,  the  saint's  residence  was  crowded.  In  his 
best  robes  he  stood  forth,  and  complacently  received  the  com 
pliments  of  his  visitors.  Like  the  reverence  paid  to  the  Pope, 
multitudes  kissed  his  feet.  A  sermon  was  delivered  detailing 
the  miracles  he  wrought  and  still  works.  After  sunset  the  front 
of  his  house  was  made  luminous  with  lamps*  while  serpents, 
crackers,  rockets,  and  other  pyrotechnics  proclaimed  to  earth 
and  heaven  the  rejoicings  at  the  saint's  soiree. 

3d.  There  has  been  much  talk  and  no  little  feeling  manifest 
ed  about  the  vicar  of  St.  Anne's  parisli  having  brought  some 
sacred  bones  from  Rome,  and  waiting  the  emperor's  return  to 
have  their  advent  into  the  New  World  duly  honored.  We  may 
as  well  make  his  church  one  of  the  objects  of  this  day's  visit. 
In  going  down  the  Cattete,  a  gang  of  freshly-imported  slaves 

O 


210  SKETCHES   OF 

came  along:  their  tribal  marks,  cut  in  their  cheeks,  reminded  one 
of  scores  of  the  knife  in  the  crisped  skin  of  roasted  pork.  They 
stared  at  a  smart  young  fellow  bearing  a  baril  of  water  jauntily 
inclined  on  his  head,  and  twanging  the  keys  of  his  marimba  to 
a  waltzing  tune.  A  little  farther,  and  a  meagre  old  man  in  an 
alb  leans  over  a  hatch,  waiting  to  know  whether  any  indweller 
wishes  to  secure  the  friendship  of  Antonio  dos  Pobres  by  add 
ing  a  few  vintems  to  his  dish. 

But  here  is  the  Campo  and  the  little  village-looking  temple  of 
St.  Anne.  The  floor  is  sanded,  and  the  pulpit,  like  a  swallow's 
nest,  projects  from  the  wall.  The  place  has  a  poor,  worn-out 
appearance,  according  with  an  unusual  number  of  begging  saints 
painted  on  alms-boxes.  One  I  can  not  make  out — a  stout  fig 
ure  in  a  tunic  and  kilt,  or  short  petticoat,  and  plaided  stockings 
—apparently  a  Celtic  chieftain.  The  five  shrines  are  all  con 
cealed.  The  "  covering  of  the  saints"  began  on  the  29th  ulti 
mo,  and  ends  on  the  llth  instant.  In  a  side  passage  are  very 
old-looking  votive  tablets,  and  only  one  cereous  offering.  The 
passage  opens  into  a  small  cemetery.  Into  the  few  empty  nich 
es  swallows  are  flying  and  twittering  as  if  they  were  the  souls 
of  the  departed  occupants  asking  where  their  bodies  are. 

A  short  distance  from  this  house  of  "  God's  grandmother"  is 
that  of  her  husband,  Joaquim,  who  is  not  honored  with  the  ti 
tle  of  "grandfather,"  but  simply  the  "father  of  Our  Lady." 
His  church  is  surmounted  with  two  chanticleers.  Such  favor 
ites  were  these  symbols  of  holy  vigilance  in  the  Middle  Ages 
that  the  clergy  called  themselves  "  thejCocks  of  the  Almighty." 

The  doors  being  closed,  I  passed  on  to  the  small  triangular 
largo  of  Santa  Kita,  with  its  octagonal  fount  and  small  church. 
As  the  bells  kept  ringing  a  general  welcome,  I  pushed  the 
crimson  screen  aside  and  was  in  another  world — one  where  a 
mellow  artificial  light  rivaled  the  sun,  and  where  people  were 
as  busy  as  without.  On  a  pinnacle  formed  of  alternate  rows 
of  flowers  and  lights  the  lady  stood  and  smiled  on  the  mortals 
at  her  feet ;  among  them  were  slaves  of  both  sexes,  and  all  ap 
parently  striving  to  catch  her  eye.  The  place  was  crowded.  A 
committee  had  not  a  moment's  breathing-time  from  taking  dues 
and  making  change  for  her  little  paper  portraits.  Negro  assist 
ants  were  running  to  and  fro  among  ladders,  planks,  and  paint- 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  211 

pots,  as  if  the  doors  had  been  thrown  prematurely  open.  No 
priest  was  present,  nor  is  any  required  when  the  festival  is  once 
opened.  It  was  Santa  Rita  to  whom  was  given  the  power  "  to 
make  impossible  things  possible." 

In  the  "  Bom  Jesus"  the  altar  was  the  basis  of  one  grand 
bouquet  that  reached  the  ceiling,  and  as  the  feast  here  was  in 
honor  of  "  the  Lady  of  Pains,"  her  image  was  unveiled.  Ex 
quisitely  carved  and  draped,  she  captivated  all  eyes.  Eows  of 
old  and  young  ladies  were  seated  on  the  floor  gazing  at  her.  In 
an  adjoining  apartment,  white  and  black  workmen  were  seen  pre 
paring  machinery  for  new  attractions.  I  can  see  little  difference 
between  these  and  theatrical  entertainments.  The  managers  of 
both  are  applicants  for  public  favor  on  the  express  ground  of  the 
"  brilliancy  and  splendor"  of  their  spectacles.  A  contest  in  the 
papers  is  going  on  between  those  of  the  buskin  and  the  scapu- 
lary.  The  latter  insist  that  the  former  shall  not  interfere  with 
them  during  Holy  Week,  and  they  ask  the  authorities  to  pro 
hibit  a  masked  ball  just  announced. 

We  have  time  before  dinner  to  visit  the  Candelaria,  and  see 
the  famous  image  which  Pope  Pius  blessed.  Here  is  the 
church,  facing  a  narrow  lane  in  the  mercantile  part  of  the  city. 
Slaves  are  generally  found  sleeping  on  the  steps,  as  some  are 
now,  and  noisy  coffee-carriers  waiting  to  be  employed.  A  com 
mittee  sit  at  a  table,  with  a  silver  dish  piled  up  with  money  re 
ceived  for  portraits  of  the  Lady  of  Griefs,  most  grievously  cut 
in  wood  or  copper.  This  temple,  for  chasteness  and  richness 
of  decoration,  eclipses  every  other.  No  smutched-faced  saint  in 
shabby  apparel  resides  here.  The  side  altars  are  laden  with 
flowers  and  flaming  tapers,  but  the  chief  one  surpasses  all.  A 
double  row  of  seven-feet  candlesticks,  of  classical  beauty,  form 
a  passage  to  it,  and  terminate  at  a  couple  of  porcelain  vases 
four  feet  high,  holding  bouquets  of  equal  altitude.  The  front 
of  the  altar  is  a  plate  of  embossed  silver,  fourteen  feet  by  five, 
wrought  into  five  equal  panels  with  gold  borders  and  rosettes. 
There  is  no  sham  in  this  plate.  It  is  used  only  on  great  occa 
sions. 

Upon  the  altar  candlesticks  and  vases  of  flowers  alternate, 
and  from  it  rises  a  tapered  tower  some  thirty  feet  high,  com 
posed  of  series  of  vases,  bouquets,  and  candles.  Upon  this  ped- 


212  SKETCHES   OF 

estal  the  miraculous  lady  stands.  She  is  of  the  natural  size, 
and  superbly  dressed.  After  gazing  a  while,  I  imagined  she  in 
clined  her  head  and  answered  my  salutations  with  a  smile,  and 
thus  I  again  perceived  how  such  miracles  have  arisen,  and  how 
easy  it  is  for  certain  souls  to  be  favored  with  them.  Not  less 
than  a  thousand  perfumed  tapers  were  burning,  amid  vases  hold 
ing  flowers  sufficient  for  a  state  floral  exhibition.  The  effect 
was  really  enchanting. 

There  is  something  pleasing  in  the  idea  which  excludes  ani 
mal  substances  from  materials  for  illuminating  churches — that 
suffering  and  death  may  not  be  elements  in  the  worship  of  the 
Author  of  mercy  and  life.  Hence  neither  whale,  sperm,  nor 
lard  oils  must  be  introduced  into  lamps,  nor  tallow  into  candles. 
Next  to  olive,  cocoa  oil  is  deemed  the  best :  it  gives  out  in  burn 
ing  an  agreeable  odor.  Palm  oil  is  also  used.  None  but  bees' 
and  vegetable  wax  must  be  used  for  candles,  the  former  be 
cause  it  is  not  obtained  by  killing  its  producers.  It  is  also 
deemed  improper  for  crucifixes,  amulets,  ex  votos,  praying- 
beads,  etc.,  to  be  of  bone  or  ivory. 

As  the  procession  of  the  Carmelites  to-day  will  equal  any 
thing  of  the  kind  during  the  rest  of  my  stay  in  Rio,  I  was  in 
Dereita  Street  by  4  P.M.  The  balconies  were  filled  by  ladies 
in  full  dress,  and  the  side- walks  occupied  by  waiting  spectators. 
A  finer  evening  could  not  have  been  selected  for  the  spectacle. 
Soldiers  fell  into  ranks,  the  crowd  thickened,  and  soon  the  first 
image  of  the  series  was  seen  emerging  from  the  Carmo  Temple. 
The  brotherhood  extended  from  the  church,  some  three  hundred 
feet,  to  where  I  stood.  In  their  uniform  of  cream-colored  albs, 
and  armed  with  waxen  staffs,  they  presented  a  fine  sample  of 
the  Church's  troops.  Here  and  there  one  hurried  to  and  fro, 
giving  orders,  and  wielding  his  candle  as  a  marshal's  baton. 
Others  clutched  winged  cherubs  by  the  hand,  and  dragged  them 
onward,  as  if  they  had  just  captured  or  brought  them  down  with 
their  truncheons  to  ornament  the  fete. 

The  particulars  were  briefly  these  :  Infantry  troops  formed 
two  walls  between  which  the  procession  was  to  pass.  It  was 
headed  by  horse  soldiers  with  drawn  swords,  three  abreast ;  then 
a  banner,  inscribed  S.  P.  Q.  R. ;  next,  brothers  and  candles  ;  a 
crimson  bag  on  a  silver  pole,  with  a  mourning  candle  on  either 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  213 

hand,  the  wax  being  painted  with  "black  spiral  stripes.  Broth 
ers  and  candles  ;  three  angels  abreast — the  middle  one,  with  a 
banner,  personated  St.  Michael  the  Archangel.  She  wore  a 
shining  helmet,  a  silver  breast-plate,  nankeen  pantalettes,  and 
scarlet  boots.  Her  wings  were  spotted  prettily,  and  the  cloud 
behind  her  was  bordered  with  (paper)  lace.  Her  arms  were 
naked.  I  wished  her  mamma  had  kept  her  large  ear-rings, 
bracelets,  finger-rings,  and  necklace  at  home. 

1.  As  the  first  image  now  was  drawing  near,  the  soldiers  fix 
ed  bayonets  and  shouldered  muskets  to  do  it  honor.     It  repre 
sented  The  Passion.      A  large  statue  of  Christ  in  a  kneeling 
posture,  with  the  hands  clasped  as  in  prayer.     Drops  of  blood 
rolled  down  the  pallid  cheeks.     An  angel,  between  three  and 
four  feet  high,  stoops  and  presents  the  cup.     Three  silver  lan 
terns  were  borne  on  each  side,  and  a  file  of  soldiers,  with  drawn 
swords,  attends. 

2.  A  long  line  of  brothers  follow,  who  are  followed  by  the 
second  stage,  on  which  stands  Christ  before  Pilate,  pale,  emaci 
ated,  and  submissive. 

Brothers  and  angels  three  abreast. 

3.  Christ  scourged.    This   image  is  naked,  except  a  fillet 
round  the  loins.     It  is  tied  by  ropes  to  a  pillar,  and  the  face, 
breast,  back,  thighs,  arms,  and  legs  are  painted  streaming  with 
gore — vividly  horrible. 

Crowd  of  brothers  and  angels. 

4.  Christ  mocked.    Seated,  a  reed  in  his  hand,  and  a  short 
purple  robe  thrown  over  his  lacerated  shoulders.    He  is  bruised 
and  bleeding  all  over. 

Brothers  and  angels. 

5.  On  this  stage  Christ  appears  standing,  and  holds  a  stalk 
of  Indian-corn  or  sugar-cane  in  one  hand.      A  similar  spare 
robe  to  the  last  covers  a  small  part  of  the  naked  body.     (The 
incident  represented  I  did  not  perceive ;  perhaps  the  scene  be 
fore  Herod  is  intended.) 

Brothers  and  angels. 

6.  Bearing  the  Cross.  The  figure  is  similar  to,  or  the  same 
as  the  one  noticed  in  the  procession  of  27th  ult.     Great  num 
bers  of  devout  Brazilians,  and  the  blacks  generally,  knelt  as  it 
passed  them.     The  attending  angels  were  quite  numerous.     Of 


214  SKETCHES   OF 

the  symbols,  one  had  the  sponge  of  vinegar  on  a  rod,  another  the 
spear  that  pierced  him. 

7.  Christ  on  the  Cross.    The  top  of  the  latter  is,  I  should 
think,  nearly  twenty  feet  from   the   ground.     The   shaft  rises 
from  a  greeen  hillock  on  the  stage,  and  springs  considerably. 
As  it  drew  nigh,  the  cause  of  this  was  apparent.     The  cross  is 
of  plank,  and  the  weight  of  the  image  causes  it  to  bend  to  and 
fro,  for  it  has  no  support  except  at  the  foot.     I  surmised  that 
the  large  image  might  be  of  papier-mache,  but  I  subsequently 
learned  that  it  is  of  hard,  heavy  wood,  and  nearly  200  years 
old.     A  crimson  stream  flowing  from  the  wound  in  the  side 
contrasted  strongly  with  the   chalk-like  hue  of  the  face  and 
body. 

Brothers  and  angels  followed,  and  behind  the  latter  two  ne 
groes  with  boxes  of  bon-bons,  to  refresh  them  during  pauses  in 
the  procession. 

8.  The  managers  under  a  long  canopy.     Of  the  sea  of  heads 
in  sight,  theirs  only  are  covered  (by  skull-caps,  rochets,  and 
mitres),  besides  being  screened  by  the  golden  drapery  over  them. 
Every  spectator  in  front  falls  at  their  feet,  not  excepting  the 
soldiers.     Among  the  young  smirking  monks  is  my  confessor 
friend  of  the  Lapa.     They  are  passed,  and  now  the  drums,  bu 
gles,  and  French  horns  burst  forth  and  do  their  best.     The  air 
is  not  Yankee  Doodle,  but  it  is  quite  as  lively.     The  foot-sol 
diers  wheel  in,  a  guard  of  honor  to  the  fathers,  and  sway  their 
bodies  as  in  ecstasy.     Finally,  the  national  banner  brings  up 
the  rear,  and  closes  the  Pomp. 

I  afterward  met  it  in  Quitanda  Street,  through  whose  entire 
length  people  were  waiting.  As  the  image  bearing  the  cross 
came  up,  many  knelt  and  most  stooped,  but  some  young  fel 
lows  got  into  a  squabble  and  fight  with  three  or  four  blacks  for 
looking  over  their  shoulders. 

The  images  rather  exceeded  the  natural  stature.  As  works 
of  art  they  are  pretty  good,  and  some  are  very  good.  At  the 
ordinary  distance  as  seen  by  spectators,  their  expression  is  all 
that  carving  and  colors  can  impart.  But  there  is  no  avoiding 
a  painful  feeling  induced  by  their  stiff,  unnatural  gaits — now 
pitched  forward,  and  anon  inclined  backward. 

It  was  here  I  first  saw  what  is  supposed  to  have  been  the 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  215 

original  figure  and  position  of  the  Nimbus,  viz.,  a  flat,  circular 
plate,  notched  all  round  like  a  circular  saw,  and  suspended  hori 
zontally  a  short  distance  above  the  head  of  each  image.  Of  re 
mote  devices,  none  is  more  singular  in  its  origin  and  change  of 
purposes  than  this. 

Roman  emperors  assumed  the  nimbus  as  a  mark  of  divinity, 
and  under  this  respectable  patronage  it  passed,  like  other  pagan 
customs,  into  the  Church.  Among  -Pompeian  paintings  illus 
trating  scenes  in  Homer  is  one  of  Ulysses  and  Circe.  The 
glory  over  the  head  of  the  sorceress  represents  a  portion  of  a 
vertical  disc_pr^ringj_but  nothing  like  rays  or  pencils  of  light 
appear.  Lucian  refers  to  the  latter  in  his  Timon:  "A  golden 
statue  of  the  hero  was  ordered  to  be  put  up  in  the  Acropolis, 
with  a  thunderbolt  in  his  right  hand,  and  4  rays  on  his  head.'  r 
But  the  origin  of  the  nimbus  is  the  most  curious  trait  about  it ; 
and,  strange  to  say,  on  this  point  enlightened  Romanists  coin 
cide  with  archaeologists.  In  a  late  number  of  The  Tablet,  the 
organ  of  the  English  Catholics,  is  a  paper  on  "  The  Meaning  of 
the  Nimbus."  A  century  ago  the  author  would  hardly  have 
escaped  expiring  in  a  halo  of  flame. 

"It  appears  to  me,"  he  observes,  "that  in  our  zeal  for  sym 
bolism  and  mystical  meanings,  we  are  peculiarly  apt  to  over 
look  the  origin  of  certain  details  and  usages  which  never  had 
any  mystical  or  conventional  sense  attached  to  them  until  cen 
turies  after  their  adoption  in  the  Christian  Church,  and  not 
even  then  necessarily  or  invariably.  This  observation  is  illus 
trated  in  a  remarkable  manner  by  the  history  of  the  '  nimbus' 
or  'glory'  which  is  universally  seen  in  medieval  paintings  of 
saints  ;  for  this  is,  in  reality,  one  of  the  customs  which  was 
perpetuated  from  pagan  antiquity,  and  consecrated  by  its  appli 
cations  to  the  purposes  of  the  Church. 

"It  is  nothing  new  to  state  that  the  nimbus  was  in  its  origin 

— _~ — _—.-—— "-"*""" 

a  metallic  disc  of  copper  or  silver,  placed  upon  and  around  the 
heads  jfthose  statues  which  stood  in  the  open  air,  in  order  to 
jDreveiit  birds  from  alighting  on  them  and  defiling  their  faces 
with  dirt.  This  custom  is  first  mentioned  in  a  passage  of  Aris 
tophanes,  written  more  than  Jour  centuries  before  J Christ.  The 
chorus  of  birds,  addressing  the  judges  of  the  rival  dramas,  then 
present  in  the  theatre,  thus  speaks :  *  If  you  do  not  decide  in 


216  SKETCHES  OF 

our  favor,  forthwith  make  yourselves  plates  of  copper,  like  stat 
ues  ;  for  otherwise  every  one  of  you  who  has  not  a  disc  round 
[upon  ?]  his  head  shall  be  punished  by  us  birds,  being  dirtied 
with  our  dung  whenever  he  has  a  clean  white  garment  on  him.' 

In  process  of  time,  the  original  use,  as  applied  to 

statuary,  was  forgotten,  and  the  nimbus  was  believed,  and  per 
haps  conventionally  intended,  to  represent  rays  of  light  ema 
nating  from  a  divine  or  saintly  countenance ;  and  hence,  by  a 
farther  development,  a  frequent  and  ecstatic  contemplation  of 
these  pictures  gave  rise  to  a  belief  (recorded  in  many  legends) 
that  a  lambent  light  was  actually  seen  to  play  around  the  heads 
and  visages  of  living  and  departed,  gaints.  I  hope  that  I  am 
not  offending  against  orthodoxy  in  maintaining  that  even  this 
supernatural  light  was  of  pagan  invention,  as  Virgil's  Lambere 
flamma  caput  will  show. 

"The  engrailed  border  which  the  nimbus  so  frequently  exhib 
its,  especially  in  stained  glass,  is  undoubtedly  borrowed  from 
the  patterns  engraved  on  the  metal  Iamina3,  and  is  a  curious  in 
stance  of  the  detention  of  a  conventional  detail  for  many  centu 
ries  after  its  real  meaning  had  been  lost. 

"The  early  school  of  Italian  painters  changed  the  position  of 
the  nimbus  from  vertical  to  oblique ;  and  sometimes  the  nim 
bus  is  very  awkwardly  placed  nearly  flat,  like  a  trencher,  or 
even  a  straw  hat,  on  the  crown  of  the  head.  The  latest  de 
basement  was  to  paint  a  thin  wiry  line  of  light  around  the  brows, 
by  which  all  assimilation  to  the  form  of  the  original  metallic 
disc  was  lost." 

This  writer  justly  remarks  that  the  nimbus  ought  not  to  be 
regarded  as  an  essential  mark  nor  a  certain  indication  of  a  saint 
ly  effigy.  It  has,  in  fact,  been  applied,  in  Christian  as  well  as 
in  heathen  times,  to  characters  of  very  doubtful  morality.  Even 
the  Devil  himself  has  been  portrayed  with  it.  The  horizontal 
position  of  the  plate  here  denounced  was  certainly  the  original 
and  most  effective  one.  How  a  vertical  disc  on  the  head  of  a 
statue  could  prevent  birds  from  defiling  the  latter  is  impossible 
to  imagine.  It  would  foster  the  evil  that  was  sought  to  be 
avoided.  Placed  flat  on  the  crown,  or  supported  a  short  dis 
tance  above,  and  projecting  sufficiently,  it  would  perfectly  shield 
the  head,  face,  shoulders,  etc.,  from  pollution.  Cases  doubtless 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL  217 

often  occurred  where  a  position  more  or  less  oblique  was  admis 
sible.  Thus,  when  contemplated  from  certain  points  of  view,  the 
edges  only  of  the  plates  would  be  visible ;  hence  probably  arose 
the  wiry  line  around  the  brows  in  paintings.  There  is  reason  to 
conclude  that  the  under  sides  of  these  plates  were  highly  polish 
ed  and  otherwise  ornamented,  and -frequently  the  names  of  the 
persons  represented  engraved  upon  them  ;  and  farther,  that  the 
diversity  of  forms,  triangular,  polygonal,  radiated,  etc.,  arose 
from  efforts  to  guard  protruding  portions  of  the  figure  and  drap 
ery  without  an  unseemly  and  unnecessary  enlargement  of  every 
part  of  the  primitive  circular  disc.  (For  farther  information  on 
this  curious  subject,  see  Hope's  Historical  Essay  on  Architec 
ture,  and  the  first  volume  of  the  Archaeological  Journal.) 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Palm  Sunday  :  Ceremonies  and  Customs.— Eunuch  Singers.— Specimens  of  Ec 
clesiastical  Advertisements.— Benedictine  Chapel.— Dark  Wednesday.— A  Mer- 
9eeiro.— Juno  Lucina  of  Rio.— Lady  of  Civilities.— Holy  Thursday.— Matracas. 
—Silver  Plate  in  the  Carmo  Church.— Kissing  a  dead  Christ  in  the  Candelaria. 
—Appearance  of  the  Interior.— Kissing  the  Floor  and  Steps  in  the  Bom  Jesus. 
— Plate  in  the  Paula. — Mine-finders. 

April  5.  Palm  Sunday  was  never  ushered  in  by  a  more  in 
spiring  morning.  Not  a  patch  of  curtain  hides  an  object  on 
earth  or  heaven.  Nature  has  thrown  aside  her  shuttle,  and  re 
fused  to  weave  a  single  yard  of  floating  gauze.  Every  mount 
ain  rears  its  sides  and  crests  in  brightness,  and  there  is  a  brac 
ing,  balmy  influence  in  the  atmosphere  that  makes  the  soul  tin 
gle  with  pleasure.  At  breakfast,  Dona  B ,  Miss  C- 

and  old  Senhora  P—  -  came  in  from  confession,  and  I  could 
not  but  again  admire  the  system  by  which  impressible  natures 
are  relieved  by  empiric  formulas  from  present  anxieties  and  fu 
ture  fears.  They  laughed  and  chatted  with  such  a  juvenile 
lightness  that  St.  Anthony  himself  might  have  joined  them  in  a 
coranto. 

I  walked  out  to  observe  the  customs  of  the  day.  The  streets 
were  alive  with  peddlers,  and  tradesmen  as  busy  in  their  shops  as 
yesterday.  Overtook  a  lady  on  her  way  to  church,  accompanied 


218  SKETCHES   OF 

by  a  slave  in  livery,  with  a  tall,  tufted  stem  of  palm,  adorned 
with  ribbons,  in  either  hand.  Kindred  offerings  were  going  up 
Castle  Hill  to  the  Capuchins.  A  gorgeous  bouquet,  large  as  a 
bushel  measure,  was  beautifully  arranged  around  the  upper  end 
of  a  straight  palm  stem.  At  either  side,  on  separate  stems,  and 
borne  by  separate  slaves,  were  two  diamond-shaped  fields  of 
velvet  green,  with  nosegays  in  the  centres,  and  flowers  and  rib 
bons  at  the  angles — the  offerings  of  three  young  ladies  who  pre 
ceded  them. 

In  Rua  da  Gloria  strange  sounds  came  from  an  alley,  as  if  a 
host  of  innocents  were  being  murdered.  On  nearing  the  Lapa 
Church,  I  first  saw  what  produced  them.  Here  were  two  ne 
groes  making,  and  a  negra  selling  palm  trumpets — pretty  toys, 
that  vary  in  length  from  eight  to  eighteen  inches ;  some  plain 
and  straight,  others  decorated  and  curved  like  the  rams'  horns 
of  the  tabernacle.  They  are  made  by  coiling  palm-leaf  ribbons 
upon  themselves.  Their  music  is  surprisingly  imitative  of  agi 
tated  geese  and  goslings,  and  of  sucking-pigs  in  search  of  lost 
mothers. 

I  peeped  into  the  Lapa  vestry,  where  four  monks  sat  at  a  ta 
ble  amid  piles  of  palm-  branches,  which  they  aspersed  with  holy 
water.  One  gentleman  counted  down  a  dozen  vintems  and  re 
ceived  six  leaves  in  exchange.  Both  sexes  crowded  round  the 
merchants  and  kept  them  busy.  "  Blessed"  palms  are  reputed 
"good  for  keeping  demons  out  of  dwellings." 

Soldiers  at  the  door  of  the  Imperial  Chapel  induced  me  to 
step  in.  Two  rows  of  halberdiers  formed  a  passage  along  the 
middle  of  the  floor,  and  presently  the  vestry  door  (near  the 
street)  was  opened,  and  out  came  the  bishop  and  a  dozen  pa 
dres,  one  bearing  his  train,  and  swept  up  to  the  altar,  where 
they  took  their  turns  at  courtesying  and  other  strange  posture- 
making.  They  finish,  and  a  chant  of  females  breaks  forth ; 
so  any  stranger  would  have  thought  who  was  not  in  a  position 
to  see  them,  and  so  I  thought  till  I  got  a  view  of  them.  They 
were  Italian  eunuchs — presents  from  Mother  Church  at  Rome  to 
her  Brazilian  daughter. 

The  bishop  sprinkled  and  prayed  over  bundles  of  plain  and 
ornamental  palms ;  then  he  and  a  score  of  priests,  each  with  a 
branch  in  hand,  came,  in  slow  procession,  to  the  door,  and  pass- 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  219 

ed  out.     Taking  a  short  turn  on  the  platform  in  front,  they  re 
turned  to  the  door,  which  had  in  the  mean  time  been  closed, 
and,  knocking,  were  readmitted,  when  they  passed  up  to  the  al 
tar  chanting  appropriate  verses.     Their  re-entry  symbolizes  the 
triumphant  entrance  of  Jesus  into  Jerusalem.     The  ceremony 
is  the  same  in  all  the  churches.     When  the  emperor  is  present, 
he  goes  out  with  the  bishop  and  raps  for  readmission.     The  af 
fair  was  rather  flat,  and  the  attendance  meagre.     A  low  bench 
was  prepared  for  twelve  poor  men  to  sit  on  while  the  bishop 
washes  their  feet.     The  operation  took  place  while  I  was  next 
door  in  the  Carmo  temple,  whose  interior  might  have  been  taken 
for  a  London  or  Paris  ball-room.     Tall  boards,  with  angels 
painted  on  them,  were  fitted  up  at  the  entrance,  precisely  like 
the  side-scenes  in  theatres.     It  is  an  old  custom  to  show  up 
at  this  festival  all  the  sacred  plate,  and  hence  the  front  of  the 
long   counter-looking   altar  was    covered  with  panel-work  of 
embossed  silver ;  tripod  candelabra  alternated  with  silver-gilt 
vases,  and  eight  massive  lamps  of  the  same  metal  were  pend 
ent  from  the  ceiling.     The  Lady  of  Carmo  shone  in  a  blaze 

of  silver. 

I  had  been  advised  to  look  into  the  Benedictine  monastery, 
but  the  ceremonies  were  over  and  the  congregation  coming  down 
the  hill  as  I  began  to  climb  it— a  crowd  of  handsome,  smiling, 
black-eyed  ladies  and  their  children,  and  such  a  display  of 
chains,  frontlets,  ear  and  finger  rings  as  I  have  seldom  seen. 
Having  got  so  far,  I  went  up.  By  closely  observing  the  chapel 
walls,  angels  are  perceived  peeping  out  of  the  forest  of  old  gilt 
scroll-work.  This  elaborate  carving  is  dated  "  1694."  The 
cherubs  are  in  legions,  from  ten  to  twelve  inches  in  height,  in 
every  imaginable  position,  flesh-colored,  and  four  fifths  in  relief 

probably  of  Dutch  origin,  for  every  one  has  the  anasarca  in  his 

body  and  the  elephantiasis  in  his  limbs. 

Passing  into  the  interior  area,  noticed  on  my  first  visit,  there 
was  a  singular  sight,  considering  the  day  and  place.  Besides 
friars  and  other  lookers  on,  some  fifty  carpenters,  designers,  carv 
ers,  painters,  and  machinists  were  busy  among  lumber,  ladders, 
benches,  canvas,  and  paint-pots.  A  negro,  with  chalk  and  com 
passes,  was  making  fancy  ornaments,  another  sawing  out  simi 
lar  ones.  Here  were  skeleton  columns,  and  there  men,  with 


220  SKETCHES   OF 

brushes  three  feet  long,  coloring  scrolls  and  flowers  upon  can 
vas  stretched  on  the  ground — stage-scenery  in  every  stage  of 
progress. 

Surely  these  monks  might  Ibe  mistaken  for  venerators  of  an 
English  saint  whose  image  is  in  Stratford  Church. 

6t/i.  Rain  from  morn  to  night — no  going  out.  None  Ibut  ec 
clesiastical  spectacles  are  sanctioned  this  week.  Marriages  are 
not  allowed;  balls  and  kindred  entertainments  are  forbidden; 
table  delicacies  suppressed,  and  macerated  saints  invoked  : 
hence,  if  this  and  following  chapters  are  heavy,  the  reader  may 
suppose  it  would  have  been  improper  to  make  them  alegre. 

Church  advertisements  abound.  "  The  brotherhood,  and  all 
who  venerate  the  DisarTronted  Image,  are  informed  that  the 
Church  of  the  Cross  will  be  open  on  Holy  Thursday  from  sun 
set  to  midnight."  "  The  brotherhood  of  our  Lady  of  Lampa- 
doza  will  celebrate  the  Passion  on  Friday,  and  the  coronation 
of  Our  Lady  on  Saturday." 

"  In  the  Church  of  St.  Sebastian,  Holy  Week  will  be  cele 
brated  with  all  the  rites  prescribed  by  Holy  Mother  Church. 
On  Holy  Friday  will  be  a  devout  exercise  at  noon,  celebrated 
in  this  city  for  the  first  time.  .  .  This  sublime  exercise,  so  be 
coming  the  Christian,  has  merited  the  attention  of  all,  especial 
ly  that  of  the  holy  pontiff,  Pius  VII.,  who  granted  a  plenary 
indulgence  to  the  faithful  that  confess  on  Holy  Thursday,  take 
the  communion,  and  practice  this  holy  exercise  according  to  the 
intentions  of  the  holy  father.  The  faithful  must  not  neglect  to 
profit  by  this  treasure  of  heaven  that  is  offered  with  such  liber 
ality,"  etc. 

The  last  is  a  specimen  of  Capuchin  announcements.  Much 
feeling  exists  in  the  native  clergy  against  the  order,  but  they 
are,  notwithstanding,  operating  successfully  in  town  and  coun 
try,  chiefly,  it  is  said,  by  the  novelties  they  have  brought  over. 
A  couple  of  their  images  have,  to  my  knowledge,  got,  within  a 
few  weeks,  necklaces  of  votive  heads,  feet,  necks,  hearts,  etc. — 
proofs  of  miraculous  cures  just  wrought  by  them.  It  is  a  com 
mon  remark  that  "three  things  are  making  the  women  mad — 
masked  balls,  polka,  and  the  Capuchins." 

8th.  Dark  Wednesday,  when  lights  are  extinguished  in  the 
churches,  and  mischievous  youngsters  play  tricks  with  female 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  221 

worshipers.  In  the  evening  I  scaled  the  Benedictine  Hill  after 
tacking  to  and  fro,  without  which  none  but  agile  goats  or  other 
natural  climbers  can  get  up.  The  ceremonies  had  just  begun. 
For  an  hour  the  organ  played  and  the  monks  behind  it  chanted. 
The  chapel  was  gloomily  lit  up  by  a  theologic  candelabrum  pe 
culiar  to  the  day.  It  consisted  of  a  strip  of  bar  iron  bent  into 
a  large  equilateral  triangle,  the  interior  filled  with  open  scroll 
work.  The  base  was  supported  on  a  pedestal  or  stand,  and  on 
each  of  the  two  converging  sides  were  seven  sockets,  and  one  at 
the  apex.  In  these  were  fifteen  candles,  forming  a  pyramidal 
light.  At  length  one  of  the  lowest  was  put  out,  then,  in  a  little 
while,  the  one  opposite  to  it,  and  so  on  till  the  whole  were  ex 
tinguished  except  the  top  one  ;  finally  it  shared  the  fate  of  those 
below  it,  and  the  place  was  in  utter  darkness.  There  was,  of 
course,  an  increase  of  bustling  and  tittering ;  but  scarcely  a 
minute  elapsed  before  a  few  lights  were  kindled. 

The  affair  went  off*  quieter  than  I  expected,  but  on  coming  out 
a  band  struck  up  whose  music  was  enough  to  awaken  the  seven 
sleepers  and  throw  a  dozen  Mozarts  into  apoplexy.  The  rat 
tling,  deafening  clatter  of  matracas,  mingled  with  the  squealing 
of  palm  bugles,  might  have  defied  any  Sus  concert  in  Kentucky. 
Thus  ended  Dark  Wednesday. 

This  putting  out  of  lights  in  churches  —  an  old  medieval 
practice — is  in  imitation  of  the  sun  being  darkened  at  the  Cru 
cifixion. 

The  Ajuda  chapel  door  being  open  as  I  passed  this  morning, 
I  stepped  in  for  a  moment.  No  one  present  except  a  lad  in  a 
roundabout  jacket,  and  a  young  man  of  very  stunted  growth, 
with  large  head,  coarse,  dark  features,  and  splay  feet,  reminding 
one  of  Bertholde  the  Lombard.  Dressed  as  a  priest  in  a  rus 
set  surplice,  he  was  rehearsing  at  one  of  the  side  shrines.  He 
said  nothing  —  all  was  pantomimic.  He  bowed,  courtesied, 
moved  back,  stepped  forward,  and  mixed  quite  a  number  of 
other  motions  with  these.  Now  he  seemed  to  read,  anon  push 
ed  the  book  aside,  turned  to  the  lad  behind  him  and  received 
something  out  of  a  cloth — a  cup.  He  raises  it,  sets  it  down, 
wipes  it  with  a  napkin,  folds  and  places  the  latter  on  it,  elevates 
it  again,  brings  it  down,  steps  back  and  courtesies  to  it,  etc. 

Poor  fellow !     He  is,  I  am  told,  a  rnerpeeiro  (which  the  die- 


222  SKETCHES  OF 

tionaries  tell  us  means  "  a  person  hired  to  say  prayers  for  the 
souls  of  the  dead"),  and  was  earning  a  couple  of  patacas  by 
going  through  a  mass  for  a  soul  lately  departed,  whose  friends 
had  no  more  to  give.  He  had  got  permission  to  perform  it 
here,  had  borrowed  the  requisite  apparatus,  and  picked  up  the 
lad  to  render  the  necessary  assistance.  His  tonsure  and  offi 
cial  drapery  heightened  rather  than  diminished  the  oddness  of 
his  appearance.  The  alb  had  surely  been  loaned  him  or  bought 
at  second-hand,  being  half  worn  out,  and  any  thing  but  a  fit, 
while  the  buckles  on  his  shoes  might  have  served  Goliah,  had 
they  been  in  fashion  in  King  David's  time. 

I  had  supposed  such  persons  were  excluded  from  serving  at 
altars.  To  say  the  least,  the  prohibition  would  be  politic  where 
so  much  dumb  show  is  executed,  and  by  performers  with  their 
backs  to  spectators — an  undesirable  frontage  to  have  every  the 
minutest  motion  and  posture  scanned.  Public  worship  ad 
dressed  to  the  sight  must,  like  less  reverent  pantomime,  be 
judged  of  by  the  eye. 

On  reaching  the  end  of  the  street  (Ajuda),  an  old  red  cloth 
hanging  in  the  doorway  of  the  Lady  do  Parto  induced  me  to 
step  in.  With  little,  except  being  perceptibly  enceinte,  to  dis 
tinguish  her  from  other  Pao  Senhoras,  she  is  the  Juno  Luci- 
na  of  Rio,  to  whom  applications  and  acknowledgments  are  made, 
and  precisely  such  as  were  addressed  to  her  pagan  prototype. 
Her  apartments  consist  of  this  small  and  dark  room,  with  no 
ornaments  but  its  images ;  the  w^alls  are  bare,  and  the  floor 
level  with  the  narrow  and  dirty  street.  Here  are  but  two  oth 
er  images — both  females.  One,  tall  and  stout,  is  attended  by 
two  full-grown  monks  (de  pao)  in  white  gowns.  The  other  is 
Nossa  Senhora  das  Merces.  "  Mcrce  is  a  term  of  civility  :  it 
means  courtesy,  favor,  kindness."  The  lady  personifies  one  or 
more  of  these.  Brazilians  are  remarkably  ceremonious,  having 
great  devotion,  as  the  expression  is,  to  "  Our  Lady  of  Civili 
ties." 

Some  twenty  ladies  were  within,  apparently  waiting  for  a 
confessor. 

9M,  Holy  Thursday.  Matracas  have  been  named ;  they  are 
instruments  which  probably  date  from  as  remote  times  as  any 
thing  employed  in  the  Church,  and,  as  such,  are  worth  noticing. 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  223 

They  are  never  used  but  during  Passion  Week.  For  several 
days  I  have  met  boys  with  them,  and  this  morning  a  negro  sent 
out  by  the  Candelaria  sexton  came  along  announcing  the  parish 
festival  with  one.  I  took  the  opportunity  to  examine  this  ven 
erable  sacerdotal  rattle.  Here  it  is,  and  the  genius  playing  on 
it — a  piece  of  hard  board,  twelve  inches  long 
and  six  wide,  with  an  oblong  opening  at  the 
upper  end  for  the  fingers  that  grasp  it,  and  a 
vertical  clapper  of  bronze  jointed  in  the  mid 
dle.  It  is  carried  suspended  by  the  right  hand, 
and  by  twisting  and  turning  it  to  and  fro,  the 
knocker  hits  the  board  at  every  movement. 
Some  have  a  knocker  at  each  side,  by  which 
the  number  of  blows  and  amount  of  clattering 
are  doubled. 

Others  are  made  wholly  of  wood.     I  met  a  couple  of  these 
to-day.     A  piece  of  rose-wood  board,  three  inches 
square,  with  a  handle,  as  at  c.    Two  flapping  pieces 
nearly  the  size  of  the  blade  are  attached  loosely  by 
a  cord,  as  at  the  cross  section,  d.     They  make  a 
loud,  snapping  noise. 
In  the  Middle  Ages   bells  were  not  rung  during  Passion 
Week,  because  the  apostles  deserted  Christ. 

The  Candelaria  being  within  a  stone's  throw,  I  found  it 
thronged.  The  front  of  the  altar,  beneath  the  shrine  of  Our 
Lady,  was  removed,  exposing  a  "  dead  Christ"  extended  within. 
As  I  got  up,  a  gentleman  who  had  been  adoring  it  arose  and 
drew  back ;  a  negro  girl  then  falls  on  her  hands  and  knees, 
creeps  to  the  exposed  hand  and  kisses  it,  showing  the  muddied 
soles  of  her  bare  feet  to  every  eye.  She  rises,  drops  a  vintem 
into  a  mammoth  salver,  courtesies,  and  retires.  Two  white 
lads,  ragged  and  dirty  as  clam-boys,  speak  a  few  words  to  each 
other,  cross  themselves,  fall  on  their  knees,  and  creep  forward 
together ;  one  waits  till  the  other  salutes  the  hand,  and  then 
wriggles  himself  forward  and  takes  his  turn :  each  drops  in  a 
vintem.  Next  comes  a  lady,  with  a  female  slave  behind  her ; 
drops  on  her  knees,  and  for  half  a  minute  prays  and  crosses 
herself,  rises,  drops  some  vintems,  and  goes  away.  She  won't 
kiss  the  hand  on  which  so  many  black  mouths  have  been  al- 


\ 


224  SKETCHES   OF 

ready  rubbed,  and  she  is  right,  for  IVe  seen  enough  diseases  on 
black  faces  here  to  justify  her. 

I  was  about  to  leave,  when  a  feeble  and  purblind  negra  crept 
forward  to  the  feet  /  putting  in  her  head,  she  pressed  her  lips 
to  them  a  dozen  times.  Then  turning  to  the  hand,  she  fondled 
it,  kissed  it,  laid  her  left  cheek  on  it,  then  her  right  one ;  then 
drew  both  sides  of  her  face  over  it,  and  again  rested  them  on 
the  open  palm.  She  seemed  unwillingly  to  give  place  to  oth 
ers  waiting.  I  think  some  one  gave  her  a  hint,  for  she  reluc 
tantly  rose,  put  a  copper  acknowledgment  in  the  salver,  courte- 
sied  three  times  down  to  the  floor,  and  went  her  way.  She 
was  succeeded  while  I  remained  by  a  score  of  devotees  of  both 
sexes,  of  whom  half  were  whites.  On  mentioning  her  case  to 
a  devout  lady,  I  was  told  she  most  likely  had  some  troublesome 
disease  in  her  face,  which  she,  in  common  with  thousands,  be 
lieved  would  be  expelled  by  placing  it  in  contact  with  the  Holy 
Image. 

Formerly  no  white  person  performed  this  act  of  devotion 
without  first  taking  off  their  shoes.  This  is  not  now  required, 
though  some  practice  it.  The  great  majority,  however,  are  bare 
footed  worshipers,  viz.,  slaves. 

The  train  of  serious  thought  which  the  performance  might 
induce  is  dissipated  by  the  chattering  and  bustling  about  of 
alb'd  brethren,  arranging  candles  and  flowers  at  one  place,  giv 
ing  instructions  to  decorating  artists  at  another.  But,  however 
annoying  this  might  be  to  some  people,  worshipers  are  not 
troubled  by  it  here.  I  stood  for  some  time  beside  a  man  on 
his  knees :  every  now  and  then  he  looked  about — his  eyes  now 
on  the  sacristan,  and  now  turned  behind  to  watch  some  one 
that  swept  past  him ;  then  taking  a  general  gaze,  and  finding 
nothing  particular  to  see,  he  hawked,  spat  on  the  floor,  and  be 
gan  again  to  finger  his  beads.  A  gray-headed  slave,  with  a 
large  basket  on  his  head,  came  within  the  door,  made  a  leg  to 
the  altar,  scooped  up  almost  a  gill  of  holy  water  and  discharged 
it  on  his  head ;  again  making  a  cup  of  his  hand,  he  poured  an 
equal  quantity  on  the  contents  of  the  basket,  stood  a  moment, 
and  gave  his  vegetables  a  second  dash. 

But  night  is  the  best  time  to  witness  Church  festivals.  I 
called  in  here  this  evening,  and  after  counting  seven  hundred 


LIFE  IN   BRAZIL.  225 

waxen  lights  about  the  altar,  gave  up  the  task.  There  were 
ten  or  eleven  hundred  burning  in  the  place,  all  in  costly  candle 
sticks.  Whites  and  blacks  thronged  about  the  prone  image  : 
three  ladies  knelt  and  kissed  the  wooden  hand  immediately  after 
it  had  been  touched  by  negro  lips. 

The  enterprising  brethren  of  "  Bom  Jesus"  hold  their  reunion 
not  far  off.  We  may  as  well  look  in.  Here's  the  place.  Those 
half  dozen  mustached,  bare-headed  soldiers  parading  before  the 
door,  handling  and  puffing  cigars,  might  be  taken  for  old  match 
lock  heroes  blowing  their  lints  preparatory  to  firing  off  their 
pieces.  But  let's  push  by  the  crimson  screen  and  enter.  Well! 
this  would  be  a  sight  if  one  had  not  just  seen  greater.  The 
tapestry  is  showy,  but  much  worn ;  the  flowers,  in  vases,  are 
pretty  and  in  plenty,  but  the  candlesticks  are  wood,  and  the 
best  ones  gone — no,  not  all;  for  at  the  railing  gate  stand  two 
that  might  be  compared  with  the  richest  in  the  Candelaria  or 
Carmo.  They  are  alb'd  brothers  holding  five-foot  torches,  re 
minding  one  of  similar  candelabra  in  the  halls  of  feudal  barons. 

Here  was  more  bowing,  kneeling,  courtesying,  kissing,  and 
leg-making  going  on  than  in  the  Gandelaria,  though  no  image  is 
placed  within  reach  of  the  worshipers.  For  want  of  one,  they 
kissed  the  floor,  steps,  carpeting,  and  penny  pictures  on  the 
walls.  A  gentleman  (I  was  told  he  was  a  dry-goods'  merchant) 
rose  from  his  knees  near  me,  went  directly  to  the  right  wall,  and 
put  his  mouth  to  something  on  it ;  next,  crossed  himself,  went 
to  the  railing,  then  knelt  and  kissed  the  step  (not  the  altar-step, 
but  one  where  the  nave  is  separated  from  the  choir  or  chancel) : 
getting  up,  he  made  a  leg  and  crossed  over  to  the  opposite  wall, 
and  kissed  something  there,  four  or  five  feet  above  the  floor ; 
and  yonder  he  is,  again  standing  on  his  toes,  his  neck  stretched 
to  the  uttermost,  trying  to  reach  a  higher  object  with  his  lips. 
It  was  not  till  after  three  trials  that  he  succeeded  and  withdrew. 
The  first  object  of  his  devotion  was  an  engraving  of  the  Virgin, 
the  oldest  and  coarsest  thing  of  the  kind  I  have  yet  seen.  A 
piece  of  glass  was  before  it,  so  that  he  kissed  it  and  not  the 
picture.  The  frame,  print,  and  glass  could  not  have  cost  five 
cents.  The  second  object  was  a  saint  on  an  alms-box,  and  the 
third  a  framed  print  similar  to  the  first  in  style  and  finish. 

Next,  two  negroes  drew  up  through  the  middle  of  the  audience 

P 


226  SKETCHES   OF 

and  kissed  the  floor,  then  the  step.  Three  white  men  and  one 
woman  followed  them.  The  filthy  condition  of  the  soles  of  the 
negroes  contrasted  strangely  with  a  pair  of  new  pumps  a  dandy 
of  a  man  turned  up  a  little  way  from  them.  At  one  time  five 
men  and  two  women  were  before  me  with  their  mouths  on  the 
floor.  Not  feeling  much  edified  by  these  groveling  scenes,  I 
turned  toward  the  Paula.  The  steps  in  front  swarmed  with 
negras,  selling  fruit  and  doces  to  exhausted  worshipers.  The 
altar  was  gorgeous  as  that  of  the  Carmo  ;  but  the  greatest  nov 
elty  was  the  contents  of  two  silversmiths'-shops,  piled  on  ta 
bles  at  each  side  of  the  altar,  and  guarded  by  musketeers. 
Here  were  trays,  ewers,  basins,  pitchers,  and  other  things,  be 
sides  some  large  caldron-looking  vessels  whose  use  was  not 
apparent.  Of  trays  alone  I  counted  over  forty,  most  of  which 
were  not  less  than  three  feet  long,  and  of  proportional  width. 
What  this  meant  I  could  not  imagine,  not  dreaming  that  the 
whole  could  belong  to  one  church,  but  it  was  even  so.  The 
Paula  brotherhood  is  very  wealthy,  and  surpasses  others  in  this 
branch  of  devotion. 

After  visiting  two  or  three  smaller  temples  without  observing 
any  thing  special,  I  turned  home.  Near  the  door  of  the  Lapa 
the  monks  had  got  a  piano,  on  which  a  lay  professor  was  play 
ing  to  the  chanting  of  two  young  friars. 

According  to  the  old  philosophy,  children  born  between  noon 
to-day  and  twelve  o'clock  to-morrow  will  be  natural  mine-find 
ers,  endowed  with  the  faculty  of  seeing  seven  yards  through 
solid  earth. 

All  holy  wafers  and  water  are  used  up  to-day;  none  must 
be  left  over  till  to-morrow. 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  227 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Good  Friday. — Capuchins  preaching. — Burial  of  God. — Dresses  and  Jewels  of  the 
Angels. — Allelulia  Saturday. — Blessing  Fire  and  Water. — Paschal  Candle.— 
Killing  Judas. — Church  Machinery. — Cinerary  Urns  and  Commemoration  of 
the  Dead. — Symbols  carried  by  Angels. — Boy  Monk. — Little  Prospect  of  Prot 
estant  Missions  succeeding  in  Brazil. — Mary  of  Nazareth. 

April  10,  Good  Friday.  The  morning  light  at  six  o'clock 
is  not  sufficient  to  read  by,  and  soon  after  that  hour  in  the  even 
ing  darkness  sets  in. 

Four  great  processions  are  announced  for  to-day,  if  the  weather 
prove  favorable.  At  10  A.M.  rain  came  down  heavily ;  at  1 
P.M.  it  ceased. 

I  strolled  up  Castle  Hill  to  witness  some  new  performances 
announced  by  the  Capuchins.  Seventy  or  eighty  persons,  most 
ly  women  and  children,  were  waiting  for  the  service  to  begin. 
Suddenly  the  profound  silence  was  broken  by  a  loud  hammering 
that  knocked  all  meditation  on  the  head — carpenters  fitting  up 
a  scaffold  for  musicians,  six  of  whom  soon  came  in,  with  a  bass- 
viol,  two  violins,  a  couple  of  flutes,  and  a  clarionet.  One  of  the 
preachers  emerged  from  the  vestry.  Bless  me !  I  exclaimed  to 
myself,  how  like  the  pictures  of  his  class  I  have  seen !  There 
is  something  unpleasant  in  his  appearance,  independent  of  a 
coarseness  that  of  itself  is  any  thing  but  agreeable.  A  shaven 
crown,  a  reddish  peaked  and  matted  beard,  uncovered  neck  and 
exposed  sternum,  bare  legs,  and  feet  pushed  into  slip-shod  wood 
en  slippers,  large  and  hairy  hands,  and  his  only  garment  a  brown 
serge  gown,  tied  round  his  middle  with  a  cord,  from  which  hangs 
a  string  of  beads.  Then  there  is  the  ugly  hood  or  cowl  flap 
ping  behind,  turned  back  like  the  hinged  cover  of  a  coffee-pot 
or  tankard. 

The  music  struck  up,  and  two  monks  began  a  chant,  during 
which  the  people  knelt,  and  the  friar  just  described  got  into  a 
box  pulpit,  which,  like  all  pulpits  here,  is  so  placed  that  the 
speaker  does  not  lose  sight  of  the  images,  or  turn  his  back  to 
them  or  the  altar.  As  the  chanting  ceased  he  rose  to  speak, 


228  SKETCHES    OF 

and  every  now  and  then  broke  into  long  wailing  ejaculations  of 
"Madonna!"  "JVossa  Senhora  !"  "  Sangue  !"  "Mizericor- 
diaT  "Feridas  !"  etc.;  turning  occasionally  and  pointing  to 
the  images.  As  he  warmed,  his  gesticulations  became  energetic. 
He  leaned  over  the  edge  of  the  box  till  his  wide-spread  hands 
nearly  touched  the  shoulders  of  devotees  below  him  ;  then  step 
ping  back,  he  threw  his  head,  his  eyes,  and,  to  the  utmost,  his 
arms,  up  to  the  ceiling — the  very  action  of  a  nurse  lifting  an  in 
fant  from  the  floor,  and  holding  it  at  arms'  length  above  her. 
There  was  one  novelty  in  his  manner  which  struck  me  rather 
favorably.  As  he  finished  each  telling  passage,  he  sunk,  and 
not  ungracefully,  into  his  seat,  where  he  remained  half,  and  some 
times  a  whole  minute,  till  fresh  ideas  rose  in  him.  He  rarely 
spoke  five  minutes  without  sitting  down ;  occasionally  he  gave 
out  a  sentence  in  that  position,  with  one  hand  on  the  edge  of  the 
pulpit,  and  the  other  applying  a  handkerchief  to  his  perspiring 
face ;  but  the  instant  a  new  view  of  the  subject,  or  a  touching 
thought  occurred,  he  started  up,  and  put  it  into  glowing  lan 
guage,  i.  e.,  if  one  might  judge  by  his  excitement.  I  suppose 
his  hearers  were  affected,  though  they  gave  no  visible  sign  of 
being  so.  Possibly  the  indifferent  Portuguese  in  which  these 
Italian  apostles  are  said  to  deliver  themselves  diminishes  the 
effect  of  their  elocution.  He  had  no  book  nor  notes  about  him. 

I  began  to  tire,  and  thought  of  leaving,  but  another  friar  step 
ped  into  the  speaking-box,  older  and  stouter  than  his  predeces 
sor,  with  a  darker  beard  and  fairer  skin.  His  action  was  confined 
chiefly  to  his  head,  combined  with  a  singular  power  of  drawing- 
down  his  neck  into  his  body,  and  suddenly  pushing  it  up  again. 
Seated  or  standing,  his  head  rose  with  his  ideas  and  his  voice — 
now  buried  beneath  his  cowl,  now  half  a  foot  above  it,  and  still 
rising. 

A  slight  rain  was  falling,  which  I  preferred  encountering  to 
remaining  longer.  As  I  came  in  sight  of  Dereita  Street,  the 
sound  of  music  came  up,  and  shortly  after  appeared,  some  two 
hundred  feet  below,  the  Mizericordia  Procession  of  the  Burial. 
I  reached  the  Hospital  in  time  to  witness  its  order  and  arrival. 
The  unpleasant  weather  had  reduced  the  number  of  spectators. 
The  performers  were  drabbled,  and  seemed  anxious  to  get  in 
doors. 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL. 


229 


First  came  a  man  with  a  powerful  matraca  ;  then  a  young 

monk  in  a  white  hood 
and  tippet,  both  in  one  : 
the  latter  went  all  round 
him,  and  reached  to  his 
elbows  ;  the  former  was 
bound  round  his  head 
with  a  new  hempen  rope. 
He  carried  before  him,  a 
black  wooden  cross,  over 
the  transverse  bar  of 
which  a  white  cloth  was 
thrown  in  the  form  of 
the  letter  M,  to  signi 
fy  death — Mbrte.  The 
cloth  is  supposed  to  be  the  one  in  which  the  body  of  Christ  was 
enveloped  by  Joseph  of  Arimathea.  A  number  of  monks,  draped 
like  the  cross-bearer,  follow.  Then  came  brothers  in  white 
gowns,  bearing  candles  ;  and  after  them  angels,  with  wings  and 
a  colored  gauze  cloud  attached  by  wire  to  the  shoulders  of  each. 
Next  three  women  (or  men  disguised  as  such),  representing  "  the 
three  Marys."  They  were  concealed  in  gowns  and  hoods,  with 
their  faces  bent  toward  the  ground,  and  had  a  mournful  appear 
ance.  A  large  ring  of  silver  was  attached  to  the  head  of  each, 
to  represent  a  halo. 

The  bier,  more  like  a  French  bedstead,  came  next.  On  a 
mattress  lay  a  "  dead  Christ" — one  of  those  exposed  in  church 
es.  The  whole  was  borne  by  four  monks  on  two  staves,  whose 
ends  rested  on  their  shoulders.  Each  earned  a  pronged  stick 
to  support  the  load,  at  intervals,  when  all  stand  to  hear  an  an 
gel-chant.  They  wore  hoods,  and  tippets,  and  hempen  cords 
by  way  of  ribbons. 

More  angels,  led  by  brothers,  came  next,  followed  by  the  tall 
est  of  their  number,  a  girl  of  fourteen,  who  mounted  a  pair  of 
steps,  and,  chanting,  opened  a  white  cloth,  the  handkerchief  of 
Veronica,  whom  she  represented.  She  performed  the  part  ex 
ceedingly  well,  notwithstanding  the  thick  drizzling  rain.  Step 
ping  down,  the  brother  took  up  the  steps,  and  all  went  forward 
again.  Now  came  brothers,  monks,  and  candles  ;  angels,  monks. 


and  brothers ;  and  then  "  Nossa  Senhora,"  erect,  large  as  life 
in  purple  dress,  silver  rays  on  her  forehead,  and  standing  on  i 
stage  richly  paneled,  and  set  off  with  cypress,  but  no  flowers. 
Borne,  as  the  bier  was,  on  men's  shoulders,  she  might  be  seer 
over  the  heads  of  the  people  a  mile  off. 

The  band  of  music,  more  brothers  in  white  albs,  and  bearing 
candles,  came  next,  and  last  of  all  the  soldiery.  In  the  hurry 
to  get  out  of  the  rain,  Nossa  Senhora  was  nearly  knocked  off 
her  base.  Her  head  came  slap  against  the  door-jamb,  in  con 
sequence  of  the  bearers  on  one  side  not  lowering  her  from  their 
shoulders  in  concert  with  their  comrades.  After  the  doors  were 
closed,  the  leader  once  more  worked  his  matraca,  whose  sounds 
died  gradually  away  in  the  extensive  interior.  The  soldiers  now 
put  on  their  caps,  and,  with  reversed  arms,  were  marched  to  their 
barracks. 

The  rain  so  increased  that  no  one  supposed  any  other  pageant 
would  take  place.     The  Carmo  one  did  not ;   but  the  Paula 
brotherhood,  who  excel  in  these  things,  after  waiting  in  vain  til] 
six  o'clock  for  clear  weather,  determined  not  wholly  to  disap 
point  the  public,  the  angels,  and  themselves.     Arranging  mat 
ters  as  well  as  they  could,  in  large  apartments  connected  wit] 
the  church,  the  Pomp  emerged  from  the  side  passage,  where  th< 
waxen  ex  votos  were,  on  the  front  stoop  or  platform,  and  pacing 
slowly  along  it  to  the  main  entrance,  turned  in,  proceeded  to 
ward  the  high  altar,  and  thence,  through  a  side  door,  into  th 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  231 

interior  again.  The  last  spectacle  of  the  kind  I  ever  expect  to 
see,  I  shall  preserve  a  few  particulars,  although,  excepting  the 
superior  style  in  which  it  was  got  up,  it  differed  little  from  that 
of  the  Mizericordia.  The  managers  being  wealthy  and  ambi 
tious  of  outshining  other  establishments,  their  angels  are  allow 
ed  to  be  the  handsomest,  and,  with  their  saints,  to  have  the  best 
fit-outs.  While  others  can  hardly  draw  an  audience,  they  com 
mand  full  houses. 

The  church  was  darkened,  the  glimmering  of  a  solitary  can 
dle  barely  preventing  persons  from  running  against  each  other. 
Only  when  a  new-comer,  or  one  whose  patience  in  waiting  was 
worn  out,  pushed  the  crimson  screen  in  the  door-way  moment 
arily  aside,  did  sufficient  light  flash  in  to  enable  us  to  distin 
guish  the  faces  of  those  close  by  us.  The  place  was  three 
fourths  full  of  people  (no  females),  all  moving  and  muttering 
like  so  many  discontented  phantoms. 

At  last  the  sound  of  a  distant  rattle  came  from  the  interior ; 
it  drew  nearer,  ceased,  and  soon  after  was  heard  as  if  in  the 
street,  when  those  with  umbrellas  rushed  forth  and  met  the 
bareheaded  musicians  and  soldiers  stepping  out  of  the  side  pas 
sage  upon  the  platform  or  long  stoop,  along  which  the  troops 
formed  a  passage  to  the  church  door.      There  came  forth  a 
swarm  of  candle-bearers,  who,  with  undignified  speed,  hastened 
in  again  through  the  front  door.    They  were  followed  by  a  monk 
in  a  white  long  gown  and  hood — the  latter  bound  round  his  tem 
ples  with  a  half-inch  rope — bearing  a  black  cross,  on  which  a 
towel  formed  the  letter  M.     More  candle-bearers,  then  brothers 
and  a  legion  of  angels  ;  over  the  heads  of  several  their  guardians 
held  umbrellas.     Next,  a  neat  pedestal  was  brought  forth  and 
placed  on  the  flagging.     An  angel  came,  and,  being  lifted  up, 
chanted  a  strain  on  the  sufferings  of  the  Savior,  unfolding  from 
a  roller,  as  she  sung,  a  piece  of  white  muslin  full  six  feet  long, 
on  which  was  depicted  a  full-length  figure  of  Christ.     This  she 
turned  gracefully  round  that  all  might  see.     Her  voice  was 
sweet  and  plaintive,  and  the  little  performance  quite  affecting. 
Veronica's  handkerchief  took  a  likeness  only  of  the  Savior's 
face,  but  the  cloth  his  body  was  laid  in  received  an  impression 
of  the  whole.     It  was  a  copy  of  the  latter  that  the  little  song 
stress  unrolled  before  us. 


232  SKETCHES   OF 

She  passed  in  and  made  way  for  the  bier,  or  Golden  Bed, 
upheld  by  monks  in  white  hoods  and  cassocks.  A  "dead 
Christ"  lav  on  it,  partially  covered  by  a  rich  counterpane.  "  The 
three  Marys"  followed  weeping,  dressed  in  long  russet  gowns 
and  close  hoods,  and  handkerchiefs  in  their  hands.  Their  halos 
seemed  made  of  bobbin  wire,  and  might  any  where  else  have 
been  taken  for  the  frames  of  caps  or  bonnets.  Next  came  Saint 
John  and  Mary  Magdalene :  she  is  one  of  the  preceding  trio, 
being  twice  represented.  In  the  Carmo  procession  the  Prophets 
attend  as  mourners. 

Next  three  suspicious-looking,  bare-armed  chaps  in  steel  caps 
drew  up — Roman  executioners.  Behind  them  walked  the  cen 
turion  in  gorgeous  array — golden  helmet,  scarlet  tunic,  a  staff 
surmounted  by  an  eagle,  and  all  the  insignia  of  an  ancient  mil 
itary  officer.  The  character  was  well  conceived,  but  spoiled  by 
attempts  to  make  it  gigantic.  The  person  of  this  actor  was 
swelled  by  stuffing,  and,  from  the  vibration  of  the  upper  part,  his 
head  was  clearly  within  the  breast  of  the  figure  ;  the  face  was  a 
mask.  The  helmet  and  metal  ornaments  were  too  heavy  to  be 
controlled  by  the  artificial  neck  and  shoulders.  He  passed  on 
quickly,  but  stumbled  on  ascending  the  only  step  at  the  front 
door,  and  would  have  fallen  but  for  St.  John,  against  whose 
back  he  staggered. 

Flocks  of  angels  now  flitted  past  us.  Ere  they  had  disap 
peared,  the  image  of  "  Our  Lady"  was  out  on  the  stoop  and  ex 
posed  to  the  rain.  Similar  in  size  and  outline  with  her  sister 
of  the  Mizericordia,  between  the  rays  of  her  crown  were  sev 
en  stars.  The  most  attractive  person  in  the  Pomp,  the  man 
agers  allowed  her  to  remain  full  five  minutes  in  the  storm. 
Nothing  common  is  put  on  her,  her  dress  and  jewels  being  of 
the  most  costly  material. 

Parents  commonly  send  a  confidential  person  with  their  an 
gels,  who  is  careful  not  to  lose  sight  of  them,  on  account  of  the 
jewels  on  their  persons  and  dresses.  The  breast-piece  of  one  was 
almost  covered  with  diamonds.  A  doctor  last  year  decked  out 
his  daughter  so  gorgeously,  and  chiefly  with  borrowed  gems, 
that  he  would  not  trust  her  even  in  the  vestry  without  an  at 
tendant.  If  a  father  belongs  to  the  brotherhood,  he  can  accom 
pany  his  child  in  the  procession ;  if  not,  no.  It  is  a  rule  that 
none  but  a  Church  brother  must  lead  an  angel. 


LIFE  IN   BRAZIL.  233 

IWi.  Allelulia  Saturday — the  end  of  Lent:  the  day  when  the 
saints  throw  off  their  mourning,  and  the  screens  before  the  im 
ages  are  withdrawn — when  bells  begin  to  ring  again,  and  mat- 
racas,  their  substitutes  during  Passion  Week,  are  put  away  for 
another  year — when  scores  of  Judases  are  torn  to  pieces,  and 
when  the  annual  consecration  of  fire  and  water  takes  place. 

At  noon  I  went  to  the  Paula  Church  to  witness  the  perform 
ances,  but  found  it  so  dark  within  and  crowded,  that  I  was  glad 
to  get  into  the  vestry,  where  people  with  bunches  of  rosemary 
were  waiting  to  have  them  aspersed  with  the  new  holy  water. 
I  subsequently  procured  a  seat  in  the  music-gallery,  where,  be 
sides  the  old  organ,  there  were  one  bass  and  two  kettle-drums, 
violins,  clarionets,  French-horns,  trumpets,  &c.,  waiting  to  strike 
up  the  moment  the  ceremonies  ended.  The  process  of  conse 
cration  was  as  follows  :  The  baptismal  font  being  filled,  the  offi 
ciating  padre  put  his  hand  into  or  on  it,  making  the  sign  of  the 
cross  in  the  action.  Next  he  waved  three  crosses  over  the  sur 
face,  in  the  name  of  each  person  in  the  Trinity,  saying,  "By 
this  [sign]  I  bless  thee  creature  water — By  die  living  God  [a 
cross] — By  God  [a  cross]  most  true — By  God  [a  cross]  most 
holy — By  God  who  in  the  beginning  of  the  world  divided  thee 
from  earth."  Then  he  breathed  three  times  upon  it,  making  the 
sign  of  the  cross  in  the  act  of  blowing,  and  exclaimed  each  time, 
"  The  virtue  of  the  Holy  Ghost  descend  upon  this  water."  He 
dropped  oil  from  a  minute  vial  cross-wise  on  it,  and  dipped  the 
vial  itself  in,  saying,  "The  infusion  of  our  Lord  Jesus  Christ 
and  of  the  Holy  Ghost  is  made  in  the  name  of  the  most  Holy 
Trinity."  He  then  took  a  portion  of  the  water  up  and  threw 
it  toward  the  four  quarters  of  the  earth.  When  he  got  through, 
the  attending  officials  sprinkled  themselves  and  the  spectators 
near  them. 

Water  being  thus  made  holy,  it  was  employed  in  the  conse 
cration  of  fire.  The  Cirio,  or  "  Great  Paschal  Candle,"  a  very 
large  and  elaborately  ornamented  one,  is  the  principal  object  in 
this  ceremony.  I  wonder  the  Church  on  these  occasions  does 
not  follow  the  universal  practice  of  antiquity  in  both  hemi 
spheres,  and  introduce  new  fire — draw  it  direct  from  the  sun  by 
lenses,  from  wood  by  the  friction  of  two  sticks,  or  produce  it 
afresh  from  flint  and  steel.  Instead  of  this,  the  custom  is 


234  SKETCHES    OF 

to  prepare  three  triune  candles,  each 
consisting  of  three  tapers  longitudinal 
ly  united,  to  represent  the  unity  of  the 
Godhead  in  a  trinity  of  persons.  One 
is  placed  near  the  entrance,  another 
half  way  to,  and  the  third  at  the  al 
tar.  They  are  lit,  and  all  others  care 
fully  extinguished. 

The  priest  takes  the  Oirio,  and  with 
the  usual  ceremonies  baptizes  it  at  the 
font.  He  drops  chrism  and  baptismal 
oil  from  vials  on  the  water;  breathes 
three  times  over  it,  not  cross-wise  now, 
but  as  if  forming  with  his  breath  the 
letter  Y.  He  dips  the  lower  end  of 
the  Cirio  a  little  in,  raises  it,  and 
plunges  it  farther  down  a  third  time, 
and  it  reaches  the  bottom  of  the  font. 
Each  movement  is  accompanied  with 
similar  expressions  to  those  used  in 
sanctifying  the  water.  It  now  is  lit  at 
one  of  the  triune  tapers,  placed  on  the 
high  altar,  and  the  other  lights  kin 
dled  at  its  flame. 

After  baptism  the  Litany  of  the 
Saints  was  said,  and  then  mass,  as  on 
Palm  Sunday.  When  the  officiating 
padre  came  to  the  words  "  Allelulia, 
allelulia,  allelulia,"  the  bells  struck  up 
a  merry  peal,  music  in  the  gallery 
burst  forth,  screens  before  the  images 
dropped,  and  the  building,  hitherto  al 
most  dark,  is  instantly  illuminated, 
and  resounds  with  chants  of  "  God  is 
risen  from  the  dead."  Every  face  is 
radiant  with  smiles,  and  the  day  is 
spent  in  pleasure.  Now  the  agoa-ben- 
ta  basins  are  replenished,  and  families  send  bottles  and  tum 
blers  to  be  filled  to  sprinkle  their  children  and  friends.  Some 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL. 


235 


preserve  the  fresh  liquid  as  a  preservative  against  many  com 
plaints. 

The  padres  of  the  various  city  churches  wait  for  a  signal 
from  the  Imperial  Chapel  where  the  bishop  officiates.  As  soon 
as  he  arrives  at  the  "  Allelulia,"  rockets  are  sent  up.  Priests 
contrive  to  be  near  that  part  of  the  service,  and  ready,  on  hear 
ing  the  guns,  to  utter  the  joyful  words. 

On  returning,  I  stepped  into  the  Imperial  Chapel.  The  cirio 
was  standing  in  an  antique-fashioned  candlestick  of  silver,  four 
feet  or  more  high.  The  candle  was  about  the  same  length,  four 
inches  in  diameter,  and  beautifully  painted  over  its  entire  sur 
face.  The  figure  given  is  from  a  sketch  taken  at  the  time.* 
Upon  leaving,  I  fell  in  with  half  a  dozen  negroes  carrying  live 
turkeys  with  blue  ribbons  on  their  necks.  They  were  "Alle 
lulia  presents,"  gobbling  innocents  being  as  much  in  demand 
now  as  in  New  England  on  Thanksgiving  Day.  Next  I  over 
took  a  band  of  youthful  devotees — blacks  and  whites— hoarse 


*  In  olden  times  the  Paschal  taper  at  Westminster  Abbey  was  three  hundred 
pounds'  weight.  Sometimes  a  wax-light  called  a  serpent  was  used  ;  the  name  de 
rived  from  its  spiral  form,  being  wound  round  a  rod.  To  light  it,  fire  was  struck 
from  a  flint  consecrated  by  the  abbot.  In  the  cathedrals  every  taper  was  extin 
guished,  in  order  that  new  fire  might  kindle  a  parent  torch  at  which  the  rest  were 
ignited. 


236  SKETCHES   OF 

with  uttering  comminations  on  the  fallen  apostle,  perspiring  and 
exhausted  with  punishing  him.  These  young  zealots  were 
"killing  Judas."  The  preceding  illustration  conveys  a  correct 
idea  of  this  "act  of  devotion." 

One,  after  being  dragged  through  mud  and  mire,  and  thrash 
ed  and  stoned  till  little  like  a  human  form  remained,  was  stuck 
up  in  Hospicio  Street.  Another  I  saw  hanging  from  a  lamp 
post,  and  before  reaching  home  I  passed  the  limbs  of  several 
more.  Some  practical  joking  is  occasionally  played  off  by  dress 
ing  the  figure  after  an  obnoxious  character.  A  few  years  ago, 
a  British  minister,  on  account  of  his  opposition  to  the  slave- 
trade,  was  stoned,  and  thrashed,  and  hanged  in  effigy. 

In  the  upper  floors  and  passages  of  the  Paula  temple  were 
various  kinds  of  ecclesiastical  machinery.  Painted  boards  like 
side  scenes  of  a  theatre ;  images  and  angels — two  of  the  latter 
damaged  in  their  wings  ;  ladders,  tressels,  brackets,  benches, 
tablets,  and  a  pile  of  w^axen  ex  votos  in  a  corner.  Here  were 
some  cart-loads  of  cinerary  urns — I  counted  over  a  hundred — 
mostly  of  rosewood,  highly  polished,  locked,  and  labeled.  Some 
are  fixed  on  short  pedestals,  with  inverted  torches,  winged  hour 
glasses,  or  other  emblems  of  mortality.  These  receptacles  of 
the  bones  and  ashes  of  the  dead  called  up  one  of  the  most  hon 
orable  and  affecting  customs  of  the  Roman  Church.  On  the 
2d  of  November,  these  little  chests  are  taken  down  and  ranged 
before  the  high  altar,  when  mass  is  celebrated  over  them.  That 
day  is  the  annual  "  Commemoration  of  the  Dead."  Friends 
come  and  sprinkle  flowers  on  the  vases,  and  weep  over  the  ash 
es  of  their  kindred. 

A  kindred  custom  was  common  with  every  classical  and  cul 
tivated  people  of  old.  With  the  Chinese  it  is  known  as  the 
"Worship  of  Ancestors,"  at  which  offerings  are  made  to  the 
manes  of  the  dead,  and  masses  performed  for  their  repose.  The 
tombs  are  repaired  and  ornamented;  candles  and  incense  are 
burned  on  them. 

The  practice  accords  with  the  best  impulses  of  our  nature- 
is  congenial  to  the  tenderest  and  purest  feelings.  Like  other 
primeval  rites,  traces  of  it  are  found  among  all  people.  The  In 
dians  of  both  Americas  indulged  it.  The  burial-grounds  of 
their  ancestors  were  the  last  spots  they  would  yield. 


LIFE    IN   BRAZIL. 


237 


An  officer  led  H—  -  and  me  into  a  spacious  apartment,  occu 
pied  from  floor  to  ceiling  with  drawers  and  cases.  Here  were 
locked  up  the  most  select  of  the  pageant  apparatus.  Banners, 
tapestries,  plate,  jewels,  and  dresses  of  the  images,  etc.  Among 
other  matters,  he  showed  us  the  symbols  earned  by  angels  in 


processions.     I  sketched  each  as  he  held  it  up,  and  noted  his 
descriptions  verbatim,  thus : 

1.  The  cup  God  drank  out  of. 

2.  The  cold  stone  he  sat  on. 

3.  The  torch  they  sought  him  with. 

4.  The  lantern  by  which  they  found  him. 

5.  The  mailed  hand  that  smote  him. 

6.  The  club  that  felled  him. 


;38  SKETCHES  OF 

7.  The  pillar  he  was  tied  to. 

8.  The  cords  that  bound  him. 

9.  The  rod  that  beat  him. 

10.  The  cross  he  was  nailed  to. 

11.  The  nails  that  fastened  him  on  it. 

12.  The  hammer  that  drove  them  in,  and, 

13.  The  pincers  that  drew  them  out. 

14.  The  dice  they  threw  lots  with  for  his  garments. 

15.  The  bag  containing  the  thirty  pieces  of  silver. 
16  and  17.  Inscriptions. 

18.  The  ladder  by  which  he  was  taken  down. 

19.  St.  Veronica's  handkerchief. 

20.  Santo  Sudario — the  holy  towel  he  was  folded  in. 

I  met  with  another  novelty.  Three  or  four  boys  were  play 
ing  about,  and  one,  not  over  six  years  old,  dressed  as  a  monk — 
a  black  gown,  white  scapulary,  buckles  on  his  shoes,  and  an  enor 
mous  white  beaver,  with  the  wide  rim  pressed  close  to  his  ears. 
He  raised  it,  and  showed  me  the  shaven  spot  on  his  crown.  On 
naming  the  circumstance,  I  was  told  such  sights  were  formerly 
very  common,  but  that  now  there  are  not  over  a  dozen  lads  in 
Rio  thus  costumed.  They  are  such  as  have  been  devoted  by 
one  or  both  parents  (often  before  they  were  born)  to  certain 
saints,  in  acknowledgment  of  special  favors  received  in  answer 
to  anxious  longings.  St.  Anthony  had  befriended  this  lad's 
mother,  and  to  him  the  youngster  has  been  made  over  and  put 
into  his  livery. 

The  more  I  see  of  this  people,  the  more  distant  appears  the 
success  of  any  Protestant  missions  among  them.  Festivals 
are  obstacles  that  can  not  easily  be  got  rid  of.  The  masses 
are  too  fond  of  them,  and  the  national  pulse  beats  in  unison 
with  them ;  moreover,  there  are  powerful  classes  interested  in 
maintaining  them.  Sundays,  too,  are  universal  seasons  of  rec 
reation.  Ladies  laugh  outright  at  the  seriousness  and  alleged 
long  faces  of  English  families  passing  to  church  as  to  a  funeral. 
To  see  them  is  enough  to  make  one  pity  them !  Protestants, 
it  is  said,  degenerate  here.  The  British  chapel  never  received 
a  native  convert,  while  monks  have  drawn  members  from  it. 
The  Episcopal  Methodists  have  had  a  mission  here  for  some 
years,  and  have  abandoned  it.  There  is  no  ground  on  which  a 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  239 

missionary  can  meet  the  people.  They  avoid  him  as  one  with 
whom  association  is  disreputable,  and  they  entertain  a  feeling 
toward  him  bordering  on  contempt,  arising  from  a  rooted  belief 
in  his  ignorance  and  presumption.  In  their  estimation,  he  and 
his  employers  are  no  wiser  in  Church  matters  than  the  people 
of  Zago,  who  manured  the  foot  of  their  steeple  to  make  it  grow. 
Then  the  climate  is  against  the  severities  ot  northern  sects. 
Neither  stringent  Methodism  nor  Puritanism  can  ever  flourish 
in  the  tropics.  The  commerce  of  the  country  and  its  internal 
trade  are  opposed  to  the  overthrow  of  Romanism.  Civil  and 
social  relationships  would  be  broken  up,  and  thousands  upon 
thousands  lose  the  means  by  which  they  live.  No  sudden  con 
version  of  a  city  ever  occurred. 

To  preach  against  Eomanism  is  as  much  treason  against  the  . 
state  as  attempting  to  introduce  the  republican  form  of  govern 
ment,  but  the  greatest  of  obstacles  would  probably  be  found  in 
the  reverence  paid  to  the  Virgin. 

Mary  of  Nazareth  is  the  great  goddess  of  Romanists.  Her 
deification  was  no  chance  matter,  but  the  deliberate  adoption 
of  a  principle,  which  was  too  closely  interwoven  with  the  habits, 
thoughts,  and  feelings  of  ancient  nations  to  be  at  once  torn  away. 
The  most  refined  and  the  most  illiterate  of  the  heathen  were 
steeped  in  Polytheism.  Every  system  of  worship  had  its  god 
desses  as  well  as  gods,  the  one  being  held  as  essential  as  the 
other.  It  was  deemed  the  dictate  of  reason  and  of  nature  that 
females  should  have  deosas,  to  whom  they  could  prefer  petitions 
peculiar  to  themselves,  and  such  as  they  could  not  be  induced 
to  make  known  to  male  deities,  and  here  was  found  a  prime 
hinderance  to  the  reception  of  Christianity.  We  can  imagine 
how  the  high-minded  Lucretias  and  Virginias  of  Athens  and 
Home  would  be  shocked  at  the  proposition  to  transfer  their 
petitions  in  the  most  delicate  matters  from  the  mother  of  the 
gods  to  one  whom  they  could  at  first  'only  view  as  a  Jewish 
bachelor.  A  Madonna  was  therefore  held  necessary  by  the 
early  fathers  of  the  Church,  in  order  to  overcome  the  scruples 
of  the  sex,  and  she  was  realized  in  the  exaltation  of  Mary. 
Moreover,  in  making  her  "  Queen  of  Heaven,"  the  way  was  open 
ed  to  associate  with  her  other  lady  celestials,  and  to  rival  in  that 
feature  also  the  court  of  Jove. 


Of    T»£ 

UNIVERSITY 

OF 


240  SKETCHES   OF 

As  "  Our  Lady" — her  generic  title — she  is  invoked  by  all, 
because,  as  "the  mother  of  God,"  she  has  unlimited  influence 
over  her  son,  and,  as  "the  mother  of  men,"  sympathizes  with 
mortals  with  feminine  tenderness.  Hence  she  is  honored  at 
festivals  by  having  her  statues  carried  in  triumph,  precisely  as 
were  those  of  her  prototype,  the  Magna  deorum  mater. 

To  make  the  most  of  her,  she  is  represented  in  an  indefinite 
number  of  characters,  and  named  after  the  prominent  attributes 
of  each ;  e.  g.,  as  N.  S.  da  Saude,  she  occupies  the  place  of 
Salus  in  Rome  and  of  Hygeia  in  Greece;  as  N.  S.  do  Bom 
Successo,  she  is  pestered  by  the  same  class  of  worshipers  that 
thronged  the  old  shrines  of  Fortune ;  as  N.  S.  de  Cabe£a,  she 
has  succeeded  Minerva ;  as  the  goddess  dos  Kemedios  and  do 
Succoro,  she  is  consulted  by  the  sick  and  those  in  distress ;  as 
N.  S.  da  Concei9ao  and  do  Parto,  by  those  of  her  own  sex  only, 
and  on  special  occasions.  Even  as  the  Lady  of  Navigators  she 
was  anticipated  by  early  marine  people.  The  Chinese  still  have 
their  ancient  protectoress  of  seamen,  and  have  prudently  asso 
ciated  with  her  two  able  assistants — the  demigods  of  long  sight 
and  large  ears — "the  thousand-mile-eyer"  and  "the  favorable- 
wind-hearer." 

This  remarkable  multiplication  of  one  person  seems  to  be  pe 
culiar  to  Mary.  I  suppose  it  is  but  imperfectly  understood  by 
Protestants  ;  for  one,  I  had  no  clear  perception  of  it  till  I  arrived 
in  Rio,  and  then  it  became  interesting  from  furnishing  addition 
al  evidence  of  the  fact  that,  when  heathenism  was  overthrown 
politically  throughout  the  Roman  empire,  the  old  deities  were 
retained  under  new  appellations,  and  with  them  the  cardinal 
principle  of  adding  to  their  numbers. 

In  Rio,  Mary  is  held  in  the  same  enthusiastic  reverence  as 
was  the  great  Madonna  of  the  Ephesians,  nor  could  the  city 
be  sooner  thrown  into  an  uproar  than  by  a  Protestant  mission 
ary  publicly  attempting  to  diminish  her  reputation.  Silver 
shrine-makers  would,  with  one  accord,  rush  out  of  Ourives 
Street  and  address  their  fellow-workmen  in  the  very  words  and 
spirit  of  Demetrius,  for  the  craft  by  which  they  live  would  veri 
ly  be  in  danger  if  the  great  goddess  should  be  despised  and  her 
magnificence  destroyed,  whom  all  Asia  and  the  world  worship- 
eth.  Then  the  armadors,  costumers,  carvers,  painters,  gilders, 


LIFE  IN   BRAZIL.  241 

image-makers,  and  wax-chandlers,  equally  inflamed  with  wrath, 
would  add  to  the  commotion,  and  render  it  next  to  impossible 
for  any  town  clerk  to  wrest  the  blaspheming  babbler  alive  out 
of  their  hands. 


CHAPTER  XXL 

Amulets  :  the  Church  a  Mart  for  them. — Measures  of  Saints. — Royal  Touches 
and  metallic  Tractors. — Bentinhos. — Pictures  of  Saints. — Indulgences. — Hindoo 
Pictures.  —  Portable  Images.  —  Medals  of  Saints.  —  Bedini. — Symbols  of  the 
Cross>  —  Crossing  Manual.  —  Pieces  of  holy  Rock. — Hippocanthus. — Figa. — 
Ashes  of  Palm. — Rue. — Love  Powder.  —  Sieve  and  Shears. — Curing  the  Be 
witched. — Negro  Witches. — Cures  for  Whitlows  and  Toothache. — The  Evil 
Eye — Rio  Poulterers  troubled  with  it. — Horns  quench  it. 

April  13.  Worn  by  both  sexes  and  all  ages,  charms  and 
Church  amulets  keep  off  the  evil  eye,  hold  demons  at  bay,  and 
arrest  the  natural  course  of  events  when  unfavorable  to  the 
wearers,  just  as  they  did  when  ignorance  and  credulity  had  the 
world  to  themselves.  The  variety  in  vogue  includes  several 
that  did  not  fall  in  my  way.  I  shall  confine  myself  to  such  as 
did.  They  might  be  divided  into  lay  and  religious,  but  both 
are  in  a  manner  held  sacred,  those  of  heathen  origin  being 
"blessed."  The  Church,  with  the  best  intentions,  but  from  a 
mistaken  policy,  early  sanctioned  these  things,  and  has  added 
a  long  list  to  the  number.  Her  temples  are  marts  for,  and  her 
ministers  the  great  dealers  in  them.  A  powerful  and  not  un 
profitable  means  of  maintaining  her  hold  over  the  unthinking 
and  simple,  she  has  continued  them  till  grown  obsolete  around 
her,  exposing  herself  to  the  charge  of  fostering  delusions  she  was 
ordained  to  eradicate.  At  every  festival  they  constitute  a  prom 
inent  item  of  sacerdotal  merchandise. 

Measures  of  /Saints. — These  are  ribbons,  cut  by  priests  to 
the  exact  length  or  height  of  their  images,  with  the  name? 
wrought  or  printed  on  them.  Worn  round  the  waist  next  to 
the  body,  they  remove  pains,  diseases,  and  otherwise  promote 
the  wishes  of  their  wearers.  Females  commonly  wear  those  of 
saints  of  their  own  sex,  though  those  of  Anthony,  Braz,  and 
Gon9alo  are  sometimes  relied  on.  They  are  provided  of  all 
qualities,  to  meet  the  wordly  circumstances  of  all.  Some  are 

Q 


242  SKETCHES   OF 

of  velvet,  with  portraits  of  the  saints  wrought  on  them,  and 
some  are  strips  of  common  tape.  I  received  one — a  present 
from  a  priest — a  blue  and  white  ribbon,  four  feet  long,  with  the 
following  inscription  stamped  on  it :  "  M.  de  N.  S.  da  Ga" — 
that  is,  Medida  de  Nossa  Senhora  da  Gloria — not  the  lady  on 
Gloria  Hill;  she  is  a  foot  taller.  The  color  varies  with  the 
saint. 

I  had  an  opportunity  of  examining  a  smaller  one,  of  narrow 
red  ribbon,  blessed  and  sent  by  a  priest  to  its  fair  owner  the 
day  after  the  saint's  festival.  It  was  used  to  remove  headache, 
toothache,  and  other  pains,  by  being  wound  round  the  parts  af 
fected,  and,  as  was  said,  really  did  remove  them.  Of  this  there 
is  little  room  to  doubt.  Charms  act  on  a  principle  recognized 
from  the  earliest  times — one  which,  by  exciting  the  hopes,  fears, 
and  faith  of  the  impressible,  has  wrought  wonders  in  all  ages, 
and  will  continue  to  work  them. 

I  was  not  a  little  surprised  a  few  evenings  ago  in  hearing  la 
dies  speak  of  "measures  of  the  Holj&  Ghost."  In  reply  to  the 
inquiry  by  what  standards  the  lengths  were  determined,  it  was 
said,  "  They  are  cut  to  no  particular  lengths,  but  are  stamped 
with  the  triangle  and  dove,  and  are  found  good  for  many  com 
plaints."  When  E a  was  about  to  sail  to  Rio  Grande, 

Dona  C gave  her  one,  and  told  her  to  use  it  if  attacked 

with  sea-sickness. 

Having  taken  cold,  accompanied  with  hoarseness,  S of 
fered  to  procure  for  me  one  of  St. Braz's  specifics;  "but  then 
you  must  have  full  faith  in  it,  or  it  may  do  you  harm."  This 
medical  saint  is  celebrated  for  the  successful  treatment  of  bron 
chial  affections.  A  few  days  before  the  3d  of  February,  a  priest 
takes  his  measure  with  fine  wire.  A  number  of  these  medidas 
are  provided,  also  pictures  of  him,  and  little  green  tapers.  At 
his  festival  these  are  distributed  to  those  who  contribute  to  the 
fete — a  print  to  one,  a  candle  to  another,  a  measure  to  a  third, 
and,  it  may  be,  one  of  each  to  a  liberal  donor.  The  directions 
are,  Fold  the  wire  round  the  neck  .as  often  as  it  will  go,  and 
make  the  ends  fast ;  place  an  image  or  picture  of  the  physician 
on  a  table,  light  a  bougie,  place  it  before  him,  and — you  will 
get  well. 

I  think  faith  in  these  fooleries  is  propped  up  in  many  minds 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  243 

simply  by  habit ;  in  others  by  the  idea  that,  if  erroneous,  it  is 
complimentary  to  God  and  the  saints,  and,  on  that  account,  not 
altogether  unacceptable.  Had  Plutarch  written  yesterday,  he 
could  not  have  hit  off  this  people  better  than  he  has  done  in  his 
life  of  Nicias  :  "  The  people  had  a  dislike  to  natural  philoso 
phers,  supposing  that  they  detracted  from  the  divine  power 
and  providence  by  ascribing  things  to  insensible  causes,  unin 
telligible  powers,  and  inevitable  necessity." 

That  persons  with  nervous  ailments,  and  constitutionally  im 
pressible,  have  been  benefited  by  royal  touches,  metallic  tractors, 
and  mesmerizers'  fingers,  is  unquestionable.  They  establish 
the  fact  that  strong  faith  in  fictions,  united  with  certain  tem 
peraments,  can  cure  all  that  is  curable  by  means  of  the  imagin 
ation.  The  virtue  of  touch  in  King  Pyrrhus  lay  in  the  great  toe 
of  his  right  foot.  Pliny  and  Plutarch  have  recorded  its  cures. 
Its  nature  was  so  divine  that  the  funeral  pyre  had  no  power 
over  it ;  hence  it  was,  after  the  death  of  its  owner,  preserved  in 
the  temple,  and  the  sick  had  recourse  to  it  there. 

J3entinhos. — I  suppose  there  is  hardly  a  Roman  Catholic  fe 
male  in  Brazil,  from  the  empress  to  a  negress,  who  does  not 
guard  against  invisible  foes  by  wearing,  in  contact  with  her 
person,  a  couple  of  these  diminutive  shields.  A  friend  procured 
for  me  a  pair  from  the  most  esteemed  fabrica,  the  convent  of 
Tereza.  Two  embroidered  pads,  an  inch  and  a  half  square,  are 
connected  by  a  double  silk  cord.  On  one  is  the  Lady  of  Car- 
mo  and  child,  on  the  other  a  fanciful  figure  or  flower.  Pass 
ing  the  cords  over  the  shoulders,  one  pad  rests  on  the  bosom 
and  the  other  at  the  back,  thus  protecting  the  wearer  before  and 
behind.  Large  numbers  are  imported  from  Rome. 

Pictures  of  Saints. — At  the  anniversary  of  a  popular  saint, 
vast  numbers  of  his  portrait  are,  as  has  already  been  perceived, 
exchanged  in  the  Church  for  money  or  wax  at  an  average  profit 
of  one  or  two  thousand  per  cent.  I  never  saw  one  handed  out 
until  the  applicant  dropped  one  or  more  vintems  into  the  dish, 
or  laid  down  a  candle.  As  specimens  of  the  fine  arts,  there  is 
nothing  remarkable  about  them.  Commonly  carried  about  the 
person,  they  are  worn  out  before  the  feast  comes  round  again. 
Besides  some  procured  at  festivals,  I  purchased  an  assortment 
at  a  print-seller's,  in  which  were  John  of  Malta,  Ursala,  Luiz, 


244  SKETCHES  OF 

Crispin,  also  "N.  S.  da  Immaculada  Concei9ao,  copied  from 
two  pictures  revealed  from  heaven,  and  conformable  to  the  mi 
raculous  medal  of  Jesus,  Mary,  and  Joseph." 

Besides  preserving  them  in  books,  pinning  them  to  bed-cur 
tains  and  chamber- walls,  slipping  them  under  pillows,  etc.,  etc., 
they  constitute  a  large  class  of  amulets  called  "  breves."  Each 
is  folded  into  a  small  compass,  commonly  an  inch  square,  sewed 
up  in  minute  bags,  and  worn  next  the  body,  like  Bentinhos. 

I  understand  Old  Senhora  P has  one  of  the  Lady  Concei9ao 

on  her  heart,  and  another  of  Anthony  at  her  back. 

To  several  the  following  is  appended :  "  His  Excellency  the 
most  Keverend  Bishop,  Grand  Chaplain  to  the  Emperor,  Don 
Manoel  do  Monte  Rodriques  Araujo,  on  visiting  the  church 
whose  patron  saint  this  image  represents,  conceded  to  all  who 
pray  before  this  image  one  Paternoster  and  one  Ave  Maria  forty 
days  of  indulgence."  In  answer  to  inquiries,  it  was  said  the 
indulged  might  eat  meat  on  fast  days,  would  be  pardoned  for 
little  sins  they  might  commit,  and  if  they  died  within  the  time, 
would  go  direct  to  heaven,  escaping  Purgatory  altogether. 

Even  for  pictures  of  their  deities  Romanists  are  indebted  to 
the  pagans.  Thus  the  Poojarees,  a  sect  of  Hindoo  priests,  wor 
shipers  of  the  goddess  MARIETTA,  celebrate  her  praises  with 
chanting,  and  accompany  their  songs  with  a  hand-bell,  while 
their  wives  keep  time  with  castanets.  "  They  also  carry  with 
them  pictures  representing  the  goddess  in  various  characters." 

Portable  Images. — These  are  occasionally  of  wood,  but  many. 

if  not  most,  are  of  plaster  of  Paris.  H and  I  met,  a  few 

days  ago,  a  girl  in  a  black  iron  mask,  and  shortly  after  stopped 
at  a  smith's  open  window,  where  slave-collars  and  chains  were 
hanging  up  for  sale.  Close  by,  our  attention  was  called  to  a 
fabricator  of  things  typical  of  other  fetters — a  sacred  image- 
maker.  Seated  on  the  floor,  with  paint-pots  beside  him,  the  lit 
tle  man  was  surrounded  with  a  regiment  of  six  and  seven  inch 
genii,  to  whose  faces,  cloaks,  and  cowls  he  was  giving  the  last 
tinish.  The  Antonios  were  the  most  numerous.  The  street  in 
pagan  Rome  where  such  things  were  made  was  named  Sigiliaria. 

Medals  of  Saints  and  of  the  Pope. — Little  elliptical  plates 
of  silver,  brass,  and  tin.  One  of  silver  before  me  is  so  thin 
that,  though  an  inch  and  a  half  by  an  inch,  the  value  does  not 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  245 

exceed  ten  cents.  On  the  approach  of  feasts,  dealers  advertise 
them.  As  long  as  they  have  not  been  consecrated  they  can  be 
offered  at  public  sale,  but  when  they  have  undergone  aspersion 
they  can  only  be  "exchanged." 

By  a  judicious  disposal  of  these  trifles  the  clergy  strengthen 
no  little  their  hold  on  the  affections  of  the  people.  Bedini,  the 
new  nuncio,  has  brought  over  a  package.  One  of  six,  placed 
by  him  at  the  disposal  of  a  certain  padre,  is  now  before  me.  It 
is  of  the  size  and  value  of  a  five-cent  piece,  and  has  on  it  the 
effigies  of  Gregory  XVI.  Having  been  blessed  by  the  Pope, 
they  are  invaluable.  The  nuncio  is  unpopular,  but  he  is  adroit. 
At  Praya  Grande,  the  other  day,  he  met  a  child  which  he  was 

told  belonged  to  Senhor  B ,  an  influential  lawyer,  to  whom 

he  had  not  been  introduced.  He  put  into  its  hands  one  of  these 
precious  medals.  The  delighted  parents  are  all  his  own. 
Symbols  of  the  Cross. — Nothing  is  more  potent  than  these : 
neither  witches  nor  wizards  can  bear  the  sight  of  them. 
Besides  the  ordinary  figures,  a  very  popular  form  of 
this  class  of  amulets  is  represented  in  the  margin.  By 
it  we  learn  that  every  person,  in  the  absence  of  an  ar 
tificial  cross,  has  a  potent  one  at  his  finger  ends.  It 
shows  the  last  movement  in  the  crossing  manual,  or 
self-blessing  exercise,  which  consists  of  five  distinct 
acts  when  properly  performed,  thus :  With  the  tip  of 
the  right  thumb — on  no  account  must  the  left  be  used — you 
touch  the  forehead,  point  of  the  nose,  then  the  left,  and  next 
the  right  temple.  (This  is  the  first  act  or  cross.)  Touch  again 
the  nose,  next  the  chin,  and  finish  with  the  left  and  right  sides 
of  the  mouth.  (The  second.)  Return  your  thumb  to  the  chin, 
remove  it  to  the  breast,  and  pass  to  each  shoulder.  (The  third.) 
With  the  open  palm  retouch  the  forehead,  heart,  and  both 
shoulders.  (The  fourth.)  Lastly,  turn  the  forefinger  behind 
the  thumb,  and  press  the  latter  to  your  lips. 

Pieces  of  Holy  Rock. — Soldiers,  and  particularly  those  of 
the  interior,  protect  themselves  with  amulets.  I  heard  an  officer 
recount,  with  edifying  fervor,  how  one  saved  his  life,  in  direct 
violation  of  a  natural  law.  He  was  ascending  the  River  d'Al- 
dea  Velha,  in  Espirito  Santo,  with  government  dispatches,  in  a 
canoe  paddled  by  Indians.  The  current  was  strong  against 


246  SKETCHES   OF 

them,  and  the  water  rough.  They  were  upset,  one  or  both  In 
dians  were  drowned,  but  the  relator,  who  could  not  swim,  after 
floating  half  an  hour  with  the  tide,  reached  the  shore,  he  knew 
not  how.  On  drying  his  garments,  he  found  a  paper  parcel  in 
his  coat  pocket — slipped  in  unknown  to  him  by  his  wife — con 
taining  a  small  fragment  of  the  "  Penha,"  a  mountain  rock  con 
secrated  to  the  Virgin  under  the  name  of  "  Our  Lady  of  the 
Rock."  "  That  stone,"  said  he,  "kept  me  from  sinking." 
The  Cavallo  Marinho — hippocampus  —  is  a  favorite  with 
many.  This  curious-looking  little  fish,  when  dried, 
is  worn  next  the  skin,  and  is  powerful  in  driving  off 
the  headache  as  well  as  devils.  Some  have  it  in 
gold  and  silver. 

The  Fig  a. — One  day  I  hinted  that  Chica,  our  lit 
tle  old  African  cook,  had  no  amulet  about  her,  as, 
from  her  spare  dress,  I  could  not  imagine  where  it 
could  be.  It  was  said  she  certainly  must  wear  one. 
To  settle  the  matter,  she  was  called  in,  and,  to  my 
surprise,  drew  from  her  bosom  a  bone  figa.  She  said  she  wore 
a  tooth  in  the  same  way  in  her  own  country.  The  first  money 
a  slave  gets  is  expended  on  a  figa,  which  is  sometimes  carved 
out  of  rosemary  root. 

Ashes  of  Palms,  consecrated  on  Palm  Sunday,  carried  about 
the  person,  protect  the  wearers  from  thunder  and  lightning. 
The  smoke  arising  from  the  combustion  of  the  leaves  expels 
evil  spirits  from  dwellings. 

Rue  retains  its  ancient  property  of  keeping  houses  clear  of 
witches.  Whites  and  blacks  have  great  faith  in  it  as  a  bane  to 
sorcery  and  enchantments.  Occasionally  persons  may  be  no 
ticed  kneeling  before  altars  on  which  they  have  placed  sprigs, 
with  the  view  of  rendering  them  doubly  efficacious.  It  is  often 
seen  peeping  out  between  the  hair  and  head-gear  of  colored 
women.  A  slip  of  rowan-tree  or  mountain  ash  was  an  old  Eu 
ropean  charm. 

Love  Powders. — Some  harmless  dust,  chiefly  furnished  by 
blacks  to  slaves,  who  secretly  drop  it  into  their  owners'  or  em 
ployers'  food  to  procure  better  treatment.  Indians  in  the  north 
ern  provinces  employ  the  milky  juice  of  herbs  with  the  same  in 
tent. 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  247 

Sieve  and  Shears. — Recovering  lost  goods  by  these  is  in 
vogue,  and  with  an  addition  that  makes  apostles  abettors  of 
wizards.  When  the  cutting  instruments  are  laid  on  the  invert 
ed  sieve,  and  the  conjurer  has  finished  his  imprecations,  he  calls 
aloud,  in  a  rhyming  couplet,  on 

San  Pedro  and  Paulo, 
Phillippe  and  Diego, 

to  detect  the  thief  and  show  where  the  stolen  things  are. 

Process  of  curing  the  Bewitched. — It  is  a  mercy  that  old 
women  in  compact  with  the  wicked  one  are  not  so  numerous  in 
Eio  as  they  once  were.  In  the  interior  they  are  reported  as 
mischievous  as  ever.  When  a  person  imagines  him  or  herself 
possessed,  he  commonly  gets  a  priest  to  make  the  sign  of  the 
cross  over  him  with  a  sprig  of  rosemary  dipped  in  holy  water. 
Friars  are  preferred  for  this  business  ;  those  of  St.  Anthony  are 
reputed  the  most  successful.  If  possible,  the  afflicted  must  go 
to  the  monastery,  and  enter  the  chapel  with  two  or  more  monks. 
After  certain  rites  they  converse  with  him,  and  judge  from  his 
replies  respecting  the  character  of  the  demon  and  the  place  of  its 
expulsion.  They  are  careful  not  to  drive  it  out  at  the  mouth, 
lest  the  victim  become  dumb ;  nor  at  the  ears  or  eyes,  lest  he 
lose  his  sight  or  hearing ;  nor  at  an  arm,  hand,  or  leg,  lest  they 
become  disabled ;  but,  if  possible,  at  the  soles  of  the  feet. 

Negro  Witches  cure  Patients  given  up  by  Friars. — My  friend 
the  vicar  had  a  lad  long  troubled  with  a  bruised  leg.  The  sore 
resisted  all  his  attempts  to  heal  it.  As  a  last  resource,  a  color 
ed  "  wise  woman"  was  consulted.  She  raised  a  smoke  of  dried 
herbs,  muttered  over  the  wound,  made  motions  as  if  stitching 
its  lips  up,  put  on  a  cataplasm  of  herbs,  sent  him  home,  and  in 
a  week  he  was  well.  Another  young  slave  had  a  diseased  foot ; 
nothing  seemed  to  do  it  good;  and  at  length  his  owner  gave 
him  leave  to  visit  a  dark  sorceress,  who  talked  to  it,  made  signs 
over  it,  rubbed  it  with  oil,  covered  it  with  a  plaster,  and  in  a  few 
days  he  was  sound  too. 

Ancient  cures — worthy  of  Pliny — are  still  in  vogue.  Earth 
worms  fried  alive  in  olive  oil,  and  applied  warm  as  a  poultice, 
remove  whitlows,  which  are  common  among  blacks  and  whites. 
Senhora  Peres  tells  me  she  thus  cured  one  of  her  slaves.  The 
same  thing  has  been  done  in  J 's  family. 


248 


SKETCHES    OF 


A  popular  remedy  for  the  toothache  is  thus  prepared :  A  liv 
ing  chameleon  is  put  into  an  earthen  pot  with  a  close-luted 
cover,  and  baked  to  a  cinder.  A  portion  of  this  is  crushed  be 
tween  the  finger  and  thumb,  rubbed  over  the  gums,  and  put 

into  the  carious  cavity.     Senhor  H—    -  L ,  a  senator  from 

St.  Catharine's,  found  this  efficient.     His  lady  preserves  the  re 
maining  cinder  for  future  use. 

The  blacks  have  very  similar  recipes  brought  by  them  from 
Africa. 

The  Evil  Eye. — People  in  Brazil  still  suffer  from  it.  Hand 
some  children  have  fits  and  other  complaints,  induced  by  earthly 
and  unearthly  beings  envying  their  innocence  and  beauty  ;  and 
not  hags  and  ogres  only,  but  spruce  ladies  possess  the  unamiable 
organ.  When  the  hair  of  a  female  becomes  prematurely  gray 
or  drops  off  by  disease,  in  nine  cases  out  of  ten  the  look  of  some 
envious  fair  one  has  done  it.  A  young  lady  in  our  neighbor 
hood  had  recently  tresses  equaling  Eve's  in  length  and  softness. 
She  has  lost  them,  and  says  she  knows  too  well  which  of  her 
acquaintances  it  was  whose  malicious  glances  have  compelled 
her  to  wear  a  cap. 

When  a  stranger  pats  a  child  on  the  head,  calls  it  pretty  and 
fair,  etc.,  both  nurse  and  parents  would  be  troubled  if  he  did 
not  conclude  by  asking  God  or  the  saints  to  bless  it,  that  being 
the  proof  that  he  meant  it  no  harm — that  he  had  not  been  ob 
serving  it  with  the  evil  eye.  The  withering  power  is  said  to  be 
allied  to  that  by  which  serpents  draw  fluttering  birds  into  their 
mouths ;  and  that  human  victims,  when  once  struck,  sicken,  lan 
guish,  and,  if  not  relieved,  must  sink  into  death's  jaws. 

Besides  the  numerous  preservatives 
figured  and  described  in  preceding  chap 
ters,  there  are  others,  and  among  them 

Horns  are  not  uncommon.  I  first  no 
ticed  them  in  Barbonnos  Street,  at  a 
place  where  fruit,  vegetables,  and  other 
edibles  were  exposed  for  sale.  A  loose 
pair  of  sheep's  horns,  painted  with  al 
ternate  bands  of  blue,  red,  white,  and 
yellow,  hung  against  the  side  of  the  door 
post.  Inquiring  for  what  purpose  they 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  249 

were  there  exposed,  the  colored  proprietress  laughingly  exclaim 
ed,  "  To  keep  away  the  evil  eye."  H—  -  asked  if  she  would 
sell  them,  to  which  she  gave  a  decided  negative. 

There  is  a  cluster  of  dirty  shanties  and  apologies  for  tents 
near  the  Moura  Fountain,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  landing-place  at 
Palace  Square,  at  which  fowls  are  always  on  sale,  and  common 
ly  a  monkey  or  two.  One  of  them  is  kept  by  Antoinc,  an  ac 
tive  Portuguese  in  middle  life.  As  I  commissioned  him  to  pro 
cure  a  sloth,  I  was  in  the  habit  of  looking  into  his  den.  He 
had  two  pair  of  horns  suspended  over  his  coops.  For  my  sat 
isfaction,  H one  day  pointed  to  them,  and  asked  what  good 

they  did.  With  animation  and  immoderate  gesticulation,  he 
told  us  how  his  neighbors  of  adjoining  shanties  used  to  envy 
him  for  doing  a  greater  business  than  they  could  get — how  they 
looked  on  him  and  his  fowls  with  an  evil  eye,  and  caused  many 
to  pine  and  die. 

"  How  do  they  protect  me  !  Why,  when  any  one  now  looks 
in  to  injure  me,  he  sees  them,  and  his  envy  is  quenched.  He 
recollects  himself,  and  walks  off  fearful  of  chastisement — that 
is,  he  is  afraid  of  having  a  fit,  of  tripping  himself  up  while  walk 
ing  and  breaking  a  leg,  of  being  choked  when  eating,  or  of  some 
other  misfortune."  It  need  hardly  be  said  that  Antoine's  neigh 
bors  guard  themselves  and  the  health  of  their  capons  against 
his  glances  by  similar  means. 

Horns  are  also  to  be  seen  in  Vendas.  Faith  in  them  seems 
pretty  general,  except  with  those  who  have  become  disenchant 
ed  by  contact  with  foreigners. 

Antoine  could  recognize  the  wicked  organ  in  a  stranger  or 
any  one  else.  Had  he  read  Byron,  he  would  oft  exclaim, 

/       "I  know  him  by  his  pallid  brow  ; 
I  know  him  by  the  evil  eye 
That  aids  his  envious  treachery." 

X 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

f°r  tne  Holy  Ghost, — The  Symbols. — Mr.  Barboza. — An  afflicted  Moth 
er. — The  City  agitated  through  Mistake. — San  Jorge. — Market. — Church  of 
Peddlers. —  Burying-ground  of  Heretics.  —  Small  Water-craft.  —  Beeves  of  the 
Sun. — Lady  of  Navigators. — Mozambique  tribal  Marks. — Church  of  Boa  Via 
gem. — Ex  Votos  and  Miracles. — Curious  Lavatory. — View  of  the  Harbor  and 
Mountains. — Alms-box. — Ships'  Sails  vowed  to  Our  Lady,  and  sold  on  her  Ac 
count. — Indian  Boy. — Wax  offered  to  Marine  Deities  by  old  Pagans. — Other 
Heathen  Types  of  Romish  Customs. 

April  17.  Forty  days  after  Lent  the  most  popular  of  Bra 
zilian  festivals  takes  place— that  of  the  Holy  Ghost.  It  is  cele 
brated  for  several  days  in  the  Lapa,  Rita,  and  Santa  Anna  church 
es,  three  competing  establishments.  Each  has  sent  out  a  band 
of  collectors,  who  for  five  weeks  will  canvass  and  recanvass 
the  city,  suburbs,  and  surrounding  country.  They  have  al 
ready  visited  the  shipping  in  the  Bay  with  their  cry,  "Esmolas 
para  Espirito  Santo  /"  Musicians  always  attend  them,  com 
monly  negroes.  The  Lapa  troop  is  composed  of  white  barbers, 
who  to  a  man  are  reputed  as  expert  handlers  of  violins  and  bu- 


SKETCHES   OF    LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  251 

gles  as  of  lancets  and  razors.  They  are  hired  at  a  higher  rate 
than  their  sable  brethren.  While  engaged  this  morning  in 
writing,  Dona  H came  running  up  stairs  to  urge  me  to  de 
scend.  "  Quick !  Here's  the  Holy  Ghost  coming  up  the  Cat- 
tete.  Don't  you  want  to  see  him  ?"  I  am  sure  no  one  could 
be  more  startled  at  such  an  announcement  than  I  was,  nor  at 
the  unaffected  simplicity  with  which  it  was  made.  I  went 
down,  and,  looking  out  of  the  open  window,  asked  "Where?" 
"Gone  into  that  venda"  (a  grocery  half  a  block  off),  "but  will 
be  out  directly,"  replied  half  a  dozen  voices.  In  a  little  while 
a  negro  band,  consisting  of  two  French  horns,  three  drums,  a 
clarionet,  and  a  fife,  emerged,  and  recommenced  a  waltzing  air 
in  the  middle  of  the  street.  Next  appeared  four  white  men,  in 
albs  over  their  ordinary  dress.  Two  had  small  crimson  ban 
ners,  on  each  of  which  was  a  figure  of  a  dove  in  a  triangle. 
Another  bore  a  little  silver  bird  on  a  stand  resembling  a  cham 
ber  candlestick.  Like  the  banner-men,  he  also  carried  an  alms- 
dish.  The  fourth  bore  a  capacious  bag. 

The  minstrels,  except  when  they  leave  it — as  just  now — to 
take  a  drink,  keep  the  middle  of  the  street,  and  regulate  their 
steps  to  the  progress  of  the  alb-men  on  the  side-walks ;  now 
creeping,  anon  standing,  and  then  dashing  onward,  the  music 
rising  with  their  motions.  The  collectors  call  at  every  house, 
but  have  occasion  to  knock  at  few,  as  the  music  draws  the  in 
mates  out.  Yonder  a  lady  is  throwing  back  a  pair  of  latticed 
blinds  ;  a  banner-man  flies  over,  and  burying  for  a  moment  her 
face  in  the  flag,  she  adds  a  contribution  to  his  dish.  Next  door 
a  cluster  of  girls  have  got  the  little  bird  among  them,  and  re 
turn  it  with  vintems.  A  neighbor  now  takes  a  flag  in,  that 
every  member  of  his  family  may  perform  an  act  of  devotion  by 
kissing  it ;  and  there,  a  Mozambique  fruit-woman  bathes  her 
face  in  its  folds  ;  her  offering,  two  oranges,  is  dropped  into  the 
bag,  the  receptacle  of  donations  other  than  money — no,  not  for 
all  such,  for  the  musicians  have  now  come  up,  and,  as  I  live, 
the  clarionet-player  carries  a  live  rooster  under  his  arm,  the 
gift,  probably,  of  some  dealer  in  poultry.  Of  course  it  would 
not  do  to  put  it  among  eggs,  bread,  fruit,  and  kindred  quiet 
things.  Nothing  is  refused,  from  bank  bills  to  a  banana,  or 
half  a  yard  of  ribbon  as  a  streamer  for  a  banner-staff. 


952  SKETCHES    OF 

It  is  our  turn  now :  one  of  the  embroidered  treasures  comes 
in  at  the  window ;  all  the  ladies  save  one  shrink  from  it.  Sen- 

hora  p gives  it  the  kiss  of  reverence.  In  her  zeal,  poor 

soul,  and  under  the  popular  belief  that  it  is  a  powerful  charm, 
she  used  it  far  too  much  like  a  pocket-handkerchief,  rubbing 
her  eyes,  face,  neck,  and  bosom  with  it.  I  now  perceived  that 
every  Romanist  does  not  care  to  become  too  intimate  with  such 
things.  Some  decline  even  to  touch  them.  I  think  I  saw  and 
felt  the  cause,  but  shall  not  mention  it  at  present.  Opportuni 
ties  will  occur  for  verifying  or  dissipating  my  convictions.  Pom- 
pey  took  the  holy  ensign  to  the  kitchen  to  comfort  Chica,  the 
old  black  cook ;  and,  ere  she  got  through  with  it,  the  polite 
bearer  cast  anxious  glances  after  it,  as  he  had  received  pressing 
signals  from  across  the  way. 

The  troop  now  passed  on.  The  minstrels  struck  up  a  fresh 
air  that  set  young  feet  a  tripping.  The  rooster  actually  crowed 
an  accompaniment.  Independent  of  the  exhilarating  fife  and 
drum,  and  rousing  trumpets,  the  scene  is  a  stirring  one.  The 
collectors,  with  their  banners  fluttering  over  their  heads,  and 
their  albs  streaming  behind  them,  are  running  hither  and  thith 
er,  crossing  and  recrossing  the  street  as  devotees  appear  at  win 
dows  and  door-hatches,  while  their  brethren  with  the  little  bird 
and  bag  are  as  busy  answering  calls  made  on  them. 

I  have  heard  much  about  the  doings  at  the  strange  festa,  but 
it  is  useless  to  speculate  on  what  we  shall  soon  have  opportuni 
ties  to  see  for  ourselves. 

18M.  Walked  with  H to  Rua  Marecas,  and  turned  into 

a  private  entry  near  the  Duck  Fountain.  My  companion  clap 
ped  his  hands — an  Oriental  summons  common  in  the  Levant — 
an  Ethiopian  appeared  at  the  stairhead.  Being  told  who  we 
were,  he  returned  with  an  invitation  to  step  up  and  take  seats 
in  Senhor  Barboza's  parlor. 

After  resting  a  while,  the  Senhora  came  in,  saying  she  ex 
pected  her  husband  every  minute.  Her  sprightly  conversation 
made  me  regret  the  inability  to  commune  directly  with  her.  A 
native  of  Montevideo,  she  ought  to  be  half  Republican,  and  per 
haps  is  so.  She  laughingly  remarked,  "  Ah !  you  North  Amer 
icans  don't  love  monarchs  nor  the  splendors  of  royalty."  To 
this  pretty  fillip  it  was  replied  that,  though  we  had  no  very 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  253 

marked  regard  for  kings  of  diamonds,  we  admired  queens  of 
hearts,  and  that  every  lady  with  us  was  one.  It  was  conceded 
at  once  that  if  our  taste  was  defective  as  respects  one  class  of 
governors,  it  was  unexceptionable  as  regards  another.  The  con 
versation  was  here  interrupted  by  the  arrival  of  Senhor  B , 

who  led  us  into  his  sanctum,  a  room  actually  crammed  with 
curiosities.  Besides  collections  of  Brazilian  relics,  here  was  a 
rare  one  of  Peruvian  antiquities,  in  earthenware,  stone,  and 
metals.  These  I  begged  permission  to  sketch.  For  his  prompt 
acquiescence  I  made  my  best  acknowledgments,  and  when  the 
reader  comes  to  the  Appendix  in  which  they  are  described,  he 
will  feel  equally  obliged  to  this  enlightened  Brazilian  gentleman. 

IWi.  J—  — 's  birth-day,  and  kept  in  Brazilian  fashion.  His 

brother-in-law,  H ,  vice-president  of  a  neighboring  province, 

and  member  of  the  National  Legislature,  arrived  with  his  fam 
ily.  The  lady  of  this  gentleman  has  endured  an  amount  of  af 
fliction  which  falls  to  the  lot  of  few  of  her  sex,  and,  though  now 
resigned  to  the  severe  dispensation  of  Providence,  its  effects 
are  visible  in  her  calm  but  plaintive  face.  Like  Niobe  and 
Rachel,  she  weeps  for  her  children  because  they  are  not.  A 
few  years  ago,  returning  by  sea  from  Rio  to  Eio  Grande  to  join 
her  husband,  a  storm  arose — the  vessel  became  unmanageable 
—broke  in  two — all  on  board  perished  except  herself  and  a  sea 
man.  After  being  in  the  water  twelve  hours,  she  was  washed 
ashore  insensible.  With  returning  consciousness,  the  shrieks 
of  her  offspring  ere  the  billows  dashed  them  from  her  were  re 
called.  She  asked  for  them,  called  them  by  name  as  though 
they  still  were  clinging  to  her,  and  the  youngest  in  her  arms. 
Alas !  the  whole  seven  were  ingulfed  in  the  watery  abyss. 

20^A.  The  emperor  has  been  expected  every  hour  for  the  last 
three  or  four  days.  Preparations  have  been  going  on  for  months 
to  compliment  him  with  a  triumphal  pomp.  A  stately  and  mass 
ive  arch  has  been  erected  in  Dereita  Street,  surmounted  by  an 
equestrian  statue  of  him  of  colossal  dimensions.  The  entrance 
by  the  public  garden  is  prettily  set  off  with  an  elevated  pedi 
ment  and  emblematic  paintings,  while  within,  colored  lanterns, 
ready  for  lighting,  are  pendent  from  the  trees.  These  joyful 
proceedings  were  met  to-day  by  a  contretemps.  At  1  P.M.  the 
fort  signaled  the  imperial  frigates  in  the  offing.  The  National 


254  SKETCHES    OF 

Guards  assembled,  guns  were  fired,  church  bells  rung,  a  little 
steamer  started  down  the  Bay  with  officers  of  the  palace,  the 
schools  were  dismissed,  and  at  length  the  vessels  hove  in  sight 
the  United  States  frigate  Columbia  and  the  Saratoga  cor 
vette  !  The  unlucky  signal-man  at  the  outer  fort  is  to  be  dis 
missed  for  thus  bringing  the  whole  city  together.  Had  the 
American  commodore  appeared  an  hour  later,  the  city  had  cer 
tainly  been  illuminated. 

23d.  Anniversary  of  "  San  Jorge,  Defensor  do  Imperio.'" 
This  mighty  warrior  appears  in  public  only  once  a  year,  on 
which  occasions,  armed  cap-a-pie,  a  baton  in  his  hand  and  a  fal 
chion  by  his  side,  he  leads  the  emperor  and  court,  the  national 
troops,  the  Church's  staff,  and  an  army  of  lay  people  through 
the  streets  in  triumph.  I  supposed  this  was  the  pageant-day, 
but  it  occurs  in  June,  so  that  not  till  then  can  we  pay  our  re 
spects  to  the  hero. 

J—  -  and  I  took  a  boat  early  at  the  Flamingo  Praya  to  go 
up  the  Bay,  but  the  mist  over  the  water  became  so  thick  that 
we  were  liable  to  lose  ourselves.  No  object,  not  even  a  ship, 
was  visible  at  a  distance  of  a  hundred  feet.  Veiled  in  the  gloom, 
and  without  a  compass,  we  sought  the  shore,  till  the  great  Cloud 
Creator  and  Disperser  should  gather  up  the  dark  one  that  in 
volved  us,  and  through  which,  with  much  uncertainty,  we  were 
driving. 

Landing  at  Palace  Square,  some  four  miles  from  where  we 
started,  we  found  the  market  crowded  with  buyers  and  sellers 
of  fish,  fruits,  earthen  and  wooden  wares,  live  turkeys,  sucking 
pigs,  Guinea  and  common  fowls.  No  dressed  poultry  or  pigs 
are  seen.  In  one  cage  were  pigs  differing  from  any  I  had  seen 
— longer  legged,  of  a  dullish  gray  color,  and  long,  pendent  tails, 
with  a  tuft  of  hair  at  the  end  of  each.  Of  fish,  besides  five-feet 
sharks  waiting  for  purchasers,  here  were  streaked  bass  and 
mackerel  three  feet  long,  if  bass  and  mackerel  they  were. 

To  pass  the  time  till  the  fog  cleared  up,  I  strolled  to  the  low 
er  end  of  Ouvidor,  where  stands  an  ancient  temple  of  the  ped 
dlers — dos  Mascas.  The  body  of  the  little  place  is  circular, 
and  fitted  up  with  two  shrines  of  Ann  and  Joaquim.  The  fig 
ures  are  of  natural  size,  and  accompanied  with  minikin  attend 
ants,  fresh  painted,  that  looked  quite  comfortable.  One  is  a 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  255 

friar.  Little  angels  also,  hovering  about  the  niches,  are  genu 
ine  soaring  ones,  not  like  obese  things  modeled  after  penguins, 
and  no  more  able  to  rise  above  the  ground.  No  one  was  pres 
ent  but  myself.  At  length  a  negro  came  in,  dropped  on  his 
knees,  and,  instead  of  addressing  the  saint,  kept  watching  my 
every  movement.  A  boy,  not  over  six  or  seven  years  old,  en 
tered  from  a  side  door  with  a  cruet,  small  bell,  and  a  napkin, 
which  he  placed  on  Joaquim's  table.  In  a  friar's  gown,  the 
hood  hanging  down  his  back,  a  white  tasseled  cord  round  his 
waist,  slip-shod  and  bare-legged,  he  was  the  youngest  acting 
monk  I  met  with. 

"After  rain  comes  sunshine."  By  nine  the  haze  had  van 
ished,  when  a  boat,  propelled  by  four  African  oarsmen,  took  me 
two  miles  up  the  Bay  to  the  British  burying-ground — an  irreg 
ular  plot,  part  of  a  mountain  slope,  opposite  the  little  Bay  of 
Gamboa,  and  the  last  resting-place  of  heretics  that  die  here. 
The  broad  path  leading  through  it  is  necessarily  steep  and  crook 
ed.  Half  way  up,  a  spot  has  been  leveled  for  a  little  structure 
in  which  the  burial-service  is  read.  The  graves  are  generally 
level  with  the  surface,  and  marked  by  narrow  plates  of  cast  iron 
thrust  into  the  ground  and  numbered.  The  prevailing  monu 
ments  are  horizontal  slabs.  Foreign  officers  lie  here,  who  might 
at  this  moment  have  been  the  pride  of  their  parents  and  orna 
ments  of  their  country — victims  of  a  false  sentiment  of  honor, 
that  has  consigned  them  to  corruption  and  oblivion  in  their 
bloom. 

One  monumental  souvenir  above  all  others  engaged  my  at 
tention.  A  low  stucco  fence  incloses  it,  leaving  room  for  lilies, 
rose  bushes,  saudades,  and  purple  flowering  vines,  while  at  the 
corners  young  cypresses  shoot  up.  It  is  the  grave  of  Alfred 

,  an  affectionate  and  precocious  child,  whose  departure 

has  torn  his  parents'  heart-strings. 

A  more  auspicious  resting-place  for  the  dead  can  hardly  be 
found  on  earth.  Located  on  the  declivity  of  a  tropical  mount, 
clothed  in  perpetual  verdure,  its  walks  and  tombs  bordered  with 
flowers,  and  its  area  dotted  with  Indian  walnut-trees,  mangoes, 
cinnamon,  African  corn,  and  the  sweet  mandioca  ;  with  ara£as, 
cajus,  and  the  cardamoma,  with  its  rose-colored  clusters ;  pin- 
heiros,  pitangas,  and  calabash-trees  with  botli  rounded  and  elon- 


256  SKETCHES   OF 

gated  fruit — what  Christian  could  desire  a  fitter  sepulchre,  or 
where  find  one  more  abounding  with  emblems  of  innocence  and 
immortality !  The  blights  of  winter  invade  it  not ;  ranges  of 
everlasting  hills  surround  it,  and  earth's  brightest  skies  smile 
over  it. 

On  returning,  I  could  not  but  observe  the  variety  of  water- 
craft  in  motion — handsome-shaped  canoes,  with  elevated  bows 
and  sterns,  and  their  rapid  propulsion  in  right  lines  by  a  single 
paddle.  The  faluas  appear  to  me  identical  in  form  and  rig  with 
Egyptian  Nile-boats. 

But  the  day  was  favorable  for  observing  bodies  floating  in 
another  medium.  In  few  parts  of  the  earth  are  the  phenomena 
of  clouds  —  their  formation,  attraction  by  mountains,  and  ab 
sorption — more  visible  than  here.  If  Homer  derived  not  his 
kt  Beeves  of  the  sun"  from  cumuli,  he  might  have  done  so  if 
Sicilian  skies  resemble  those  of  Rio.  The  feeblest  imagination 
can  not  fail  of  being  struck  with  the  analogy  and  of  realizing 
the  imagery. 

Regularly  almost  as  evening  comes  do  these  celestial  flocks 
collect  about  the  highest  peaks,  and  descend  among  the  lowest, 
to  empty  their  charged  udders.  See !  at  this  moment,  while 
some  are  stationary  half  way  down  the  Corcovado  range,  others 
are  moving  along  the  Tejucan  valleys  as  if  to  meet  water- 
nymphs  waiting,  like  mortal  dairy-maids,  with  empty  pails. 
Thus  are  they  seen  at  eventide  approaching,  and  in  the  morn 
ing  hieing  away  to  distant  pastures.  Such  are  the  kine  that 
diurnally  furnish  the  Flumenensians  with  life's  richest,  sweetest 
fluid.  Yonder,  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  a  herd  is  coming  in  a 
right  line.  How  steadily  they  approach,  and  how  beautifully 
their  snow-white  sides  are  relieved  by  the  azure  of  their  ethe 
real  meadows !  I  think  these  sights  are  equal  to  any  in  Bra 
zil.  The  evening  dews  are  dense  as  if  showers  fell.  A  few 
mornings  ago,  after  sketching  a  fountain,  I  scrambled  up  a 
mount,  and  my  dress  was  as  thoroughly  soaked  as  if  it  had 
been  dragged  through  a  stream. 

24t/i.  A  friend  and  I  agreed  to  devote  a  day  to  a  mount 
ain  isle  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Bay,  and  close  in  with  the 
shore,  between  San  Domingo  and  the  fort  of  Santa  Cruz.  From 
the  city  it  looks  no  larger  than  a  good-sized  haystack,  which  it 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  257 

resembles.  It  is  sacred  to  the  protectress  of  seamen,  having 
been  dedicated,  with  the  church  that  crowns  it — yon  small  white 
patch  on  its  summit — some  two  hundred  years  ago,  to  "  Nossa 
Senhora  da  Boa  Viagem,"  a  lady  to  whose  providence  Brazilian 
and  Portuguese  sailors  committed  and  commit  themselves,  make 
vows  to  and  call  upon  her  when  in  peril,  just  as  ancient  navi 
gators  dealt  with  Neptune  and  Oceanus.  Having  had  a  pros 
perous  voyage  from  the  States,  a  pious  relative  says  I  ought 
to  go. 

We  crossed  the  Bay  in  a  small  steamer,  whose  pilot  was  a 
Mozambique  slave,  and  landed  at  San  Domingo,  where  the  gate 
keeper  or  ferry-master  was,  or  had  been,  another.  Both  were 
tall,  middle-aged,  and  as  finely-formed  men  as  I  ever  saw,  the 
latter  particularly.  He  had  no  more  of  the  negro  lineaments 
than  had  Mark  Antony  or  Cato,  but  both  had  indelible  marks 
of  their  barbaric  origin — one  a  double,  the  other  a  single  row  of 
pimples,  the  size  of  peas,  down  the  middle  of  the  forehead,  and 
along  the  ridge  of  the  nose  to  its  very  tip — the  signs  of  their  na 
tive  tribes.  The  Mozambiques  a"re  among  the  best  of  slaves. 
Equally  intelligent  and  more  pacific  than  the  Minas  (from  the 
Gold  Coast),  faithful  and  trustworthy,  they  bring  a  high  price. 
A  gentleman  who  crossed  the  Bay  with  us  had  witnessed,  while 
on  a  visit  to  the  eastern  coast  of  South  Africa,  the  process  of 
producing  the  fleshy  beads.  At  one  time  he  saw  forty  or  fifty 
lads  and  young  men  lying  on  the  ground  suffering  from  the  op 
eration.  A  minute  incision  is  made  through  the  skin  for  each 
pimple  ;  the  lips  of  the  wound  then  are  pulled  up  and  tied  by  a 
thread,  and  in  time  the  protuberances  become  permanently  glo 
bose,  smooth,  and  shining. 

After  skirting  round  a  mountain,  and  following  a  narrow  path 
way  darkened  with  dense  foliage  towering  over  us,  with  coffee, 
orange,  and  banana  trees,  and  chacaras  concealed  among  the 
exuberant  vegetation,  we  came  plump  on  the  beach  in  the  rear 
of  the  Sacred  Isle,  which  was  now  between  us  and  the  city,  as 
represented  in  the  cut  on  p.  62.  A  strip  of  sand  connects  it  at 
low  tides  with  the  opposite  shore,  and  on  it  a  stone  causeway 
has  been  built ;  but  the  whole  is  broken  down  and  dispersed  by 
the  surf,  save  part  of  an  arch  projecting  from  the  precipitous 
face  of  the  isle.  The  tide  was  coming  in,  and  we  had  to  retreat. 

R 


258  SKETCHES   OF 

My  companion  hallooed,  and  presently  a  naked  yellow  boy  came 
over  in  a  leaky  canoe,  which  could  only  take  one  of  us  across  at 
a  time.  The  only  craft  belonging  to  the  place,  it  was  hardly 
creditable  to  the  patroness  of  watermen. 

While  my  companion  was  being  paddled  over,  I  had  an  op 
portunity  of  observing  a  very  interesting  fact  in  physics.  The 
ridge  of  sand  just  mentioned  is  formed  by  waves  rolling  in  from 
opposite  directions  and  meeting  there.  While  reclining  on  a 
stone  at  a  spot  where  their  force  was  reduced  almost  to  nothing, 
the  tiny  surges  crossed  each  other,  and  continued  on  their  way 
without  having  their  forms  or  movements  apparently  the  least 
affected.  One  swept  over  the  other,  while  each  preserved  its 
outline  and  progress  as  if  no  such  contact  had  taken  place.  The 
shallow,  transparent  fluid,  and  the  almost  snow-white,  sand  be 
low,  rendered  their  movements  distinctly  visible. 

Young  Charon  returned,  and  I  joined  H—  -  on  a  rock,  in 
which  notches  were  cut  for  the  feet  and  hands  to  mount  it.  By 
careful  climbing,  we  got  into  a  zigzag  path,  at  places  too  steep 
for  any  biped  to  ascend,  had  not  the  soil  been  cut  into  steps, 
with  stakes  driven  in  for  risers.  The  only  passage  up,  it  pre 
sents  one  of  those  cases  where  a  few  determined  spirits  could 
keep  an  army  at  bay,  or  children  put  bold  men  to  flight.  As 
we  rose,  we  found  preparations  made  to  test  the  latter.  We 
came  to  a  stone  door-way.  To  pass  by  it  without  wings  was 
impossible,  and  within  it  stood  a  sentinel  with  musket  and  fixed 
bayonet.  He  was  supported  by  a  comrade  in  a  military  cap, 
blue  roundabout,  a  cartridge-box  at  his  side,  and  a  brass-han 
dled  sword  in  his  hand.  Neither  of  these  warriors  exceeded 
four  feet  in  height  nor  ten  years  of  age !  One  I  perceived  was 
an  Indian.  What  all  this  meant  I  could  not  divine,  nor  find 
breath  to  ask.  They  made  way  for  us,  and  we  passed  through 
—two  sweating,  panting,  broken-winded  pilgrims,  pressing  on 
ward  to  the  shrine  above. 

Tacking  this  way  and  that,  we  at  length  stopped  to  rest, 
when  H—  -  told  me  that  the  place  had  been  little  visited  by 
devotees  of  late  years,  and  that  the  government  had  established 
a  school  on  it  for  a  hundred  boys,  to  be  educated  for  marines. 
The  governor  was  his  old  army  acquaintance.  Starting  again, 
we  approached  the  top  of  this  immense  rock,  came  to  a  low 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  259 

dwelling,  and  observed  the  church  a  little  farther  up.  The  gov 
ernor  and  his  amiable  family  received  us  both  as  old  acquaint 
ances.  Being  a  widower,  his  mother  takes  charge  of  his  chil 
dren.  The  old  lady,  with  spectacles  on  nose,  but  no  cap  on 
her  gray  head,  was  busy  with  her  needle.  The  house,  of  one 
story,  is  cool,  comfortable,  and  wholly  void  of  ornament.  After 
taking  a  draught  of  sugar  and  water,  H—  -  entered  into  con 
versation  with  our  venerable  hostess  in  native  style.  As  his 
tongue  rattled  on,  his  arms  were  here,  there,  and  every  where : 
he  frowned,  smiled,  and  grinned  successively;  his  voice,  now  a 
whisper,  next  a  shout ;  his  eyeballs  rolling,  and  his  whole  sys 
tem  in  commotion.  He  wound  up  with  placidly  drawing  forth 
his  caixa  de  rape,  and  begging  his  smiling  auditress  to  take  a 
pinch.  He  had  merely  been  relating  some  commonplace  city 
news. 

We  found  the  little  church  open.  A  contemporary  of  that 
on  Gloria  Hill,  every  thing  about  it  reminds  one  of  former  times. 
Almost  the  entire  structure,  as  well  as  its  images  and  orna 
ments,  came  from  Portugal.  For  want  of  repairs,  both  stone 
and  wood  work  are  going  to  decay.  The  lady  patroness  is  neg 
lected  too.  No  priest  lives  here  to  wait  on  her,  and  only  at 
long  intervals  does  one  appear.  Her  glory  is  waning  with  her 
walls.  The  "noble  brotherhood"  once  devoted  to  her  service 
has  been  long  extinct.  Even  the  records  of  her  former  great 
ness  are  no  more. 

The  low  walls  support  a  rather  high  roof,  whose  converging 
sides  are  truncated,  leaving  the  interior  like  the  lower  half  of 
the  letter  A.  Entering  the  old-fashioned  door,  the  hat  of  a  tall 
man  would  touch  the  ceiling  of  a  little  gallery  stretching  over 
head.  Here  were  marine  subjects — ships  tossing  on  the  ocean, 
and  Our  Lady  in  the  clouds  watching  them.  Advancing,  we 
found  the  side  walls  set  off  with  Dutch  tiles,  and  the  ceiling 
covered  with  paintings  of  shipwrecks  and  the  miraculous  rescue 
of  drowning  sailors  ;  of  Portuguese  in  conflict  with  Mohammed 
ans  ;  the  marriage  of  the  Virgin  ;  the  mother  of  the  mother  of 
God  and  her  husband  teaching  the  mother  of  God  to  read ;  an 
emblematic  fountain,  in  which  the  Virgin  holds  the  infant  Christ 
from  whose  toes  and  fingers  issue  streams  of  water  into  an  over 
flowing  vase,  while  men  gaze  and  crowd  to  catch  the  falling 


260  SKETCHES   OF 

drops.  Here  are  three  altars,  with  their  appurtenances.  Over 
the  chief  one  "  Our  Lady  of  the  Good  Voyage"  presides.  She 
is  only  thirty  inches  high,  yet  far  too  large  for  the  ship  she 
stands  on.  Though  inclosed  in  glass,  her  garments  and  the 
Baby's  are  faded  and  colorless.  Of  the  candles  before  her  none 
are  lit ;  all  look  yellow,  as  if  they  had  been  years  on  duty,  that 
tall  one  in  front  excepted.  It  is  white,  clean,  and  distinguished 
farther  by  a  red  ribbon  tied  round  the  middle.  "  That,"  said  the 
governor,  "  was  sent  here  yesterday  from  a  woman  whose  hus 
band  is  at  sea — an  offering  on  his  behalf."  A  few  days  since, 
another  female  sent  over  eight  pounds  of  wax  to  secure  the  safe 
return  of  her  son  from  Pernambuco. 

One  of  the  lesser  shrines  is  dedicated  to  Santa  Kita,  the  other 
to  Santa  Clara.  Neither  of  these  ladies  are  over  twenty  inches 
in  stature,  and  not  being  inclosed,  are  left  to  take  their  chance 
with  less  sacred  wood-work.  They  are  destitute  and  perishing. 
Every  thing  is  on  a  small  scale  as  well  as  the  images.  A 
preacher  in  the  box-pulpit  could,  with  an  ordinary  coach-whip, 
administer  discipline  to  every  sinner  in  the  congregation. 

Now  let  us,  in  passing  out,  take  a  glance  at  the  collection  of 
old  ex  votos  at  the  right  and  left  of  the  entrance.  Here  hang 
bunches  of  waxen  legs,  arms,  feet,  hands,  paps,  breasts,  heads, 
eyes,  entire  abdomens,  etc.,  all  of  natural  dimensions.  A  vo 
tive  tablet  records  that  Justina  de  Araujo  Silva  had  a  cancer 
no  one  eye,  and  was  miraculously  cured  by  N.  S.  da  Boa  Via- 
gem.  A  monstrous  tumor  is  represented  in  lively  colors  bleed 
ing  on  a  waxen  neck — another  great  cure  wrought  by  her.  A 
tablet  has  a  foundering  ship  portrayed  on  it,  and  tells  us  she 
was  overtaken  by  a  hurricane,  when  the  crew  called  on  the  lady 
of  this  church,  and  she  saved  all.  The  vessel  was  trebly  guard 
ed  from  evil  in  her  name:  "  Santa  Anna,  San  Antonio,  and  E 
Almas !"  This  small  board  declares  that  the  female  who  offer 
ed  it  was  long  afflicted  with  a  pain  in  her  side,  and  she  was  in 
danger  of  making  a  voyage  to  the  other  world.  She  came  here 
to  consult  Our  Lady,  and  was  healed.  One  more,  dated  1756, 
has  a  painting  on  it  of  a  man  sick  in  bed,  and  Our  Lady  in  a 
corner  of  the  room,  telling  him  to  rub  the  diseased  parts  with 
oil  taken  from  the  lamp  then  burning  before  her,  in  this  very 
place.  He  followed  the  advice,  rose  a  sound  man,  and  hung 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  261 

up  this  tablet  as  a  testimony  of  his  gratitude  and  of  the  mir 
acle.* 

We  passed  into  the  sacristy.  Two  lads  came  in  and  opened 
drawers  of  the  old  bureau  to  look  for  something.  In  one  lay 
loose  leaves  of  an  early  volume  in  manuscript  on  the  "Nobre 
Irmanda  de  N.  S.  da  Boa  Viagem."  Some  entries  were  dated 
in  1719.  The  only  existing  volume  begins  with  1769,  and 
closes,  without  being  filled,  in  1818.  In  other  drawers  were 
the  lady's  linen  and  holiday  dresses,  two  purple  silk  gowns,  em 
broidered  stomachers,  and  frocks  and  frills  for  the  infant ;  a  pill 
box  held  their  crowns  and  three  or  four  splendor es — i.  e.,  silver 
or  tin  rays  attached  to  wires  to  stick  them  on  the  head.  Quite 
a  number  of  old  pictures  hang  on  the  walls.  One,  three  feet  by 
two,  represents  the  birth  of  the  Virgin.  St.  Anna  is  in  bed, 
her  husband  in  an  arm-chair  near  her,  and  half  a  dozen  women 
washing  the  new-born  child,  making  posset,  etc.  Every  can 
vas  is  ready  to  drop  from  its  frame,  nearly  eaten  out  by  ants. 
Strange,  that  one  who  can  rescue  sinkmg  ships  and  seamen, 
cure  colics,  cancers,  and  other  ills,  should  not,  by  a  small  mira 
cle,  keep  her  own  place  here  in  better  order — save  it,  as  well  as 
souls,  from  perishing. 

As  characteristic  a  thing  as  any  is  the  Lavatory.  In  city 
vestries  this  is  generally  of  sculptured  marble ;  here  it  is  of 
Chinaware,  and  exhibits  in  a  striking  light  the  piety  of  ancient 
mariners  voyaging  from  the  Indies.  Every  piece  was  a  gift  to 
the  lady  of  the  place.  The  ewer  has  been  a  soup  tureen  ;  the 
wash-basin  an  octagonal  salad-bowl.  Auxiliary  ornaments  are 
from  tea-sets.  The  manner  of  arranging  and  combining  them 
is  curious,  and  the  whole  affair  is  unique:  against  the  wall 
arises  from  a  step  a  conical  fancy  slab,  its  scalloped  sides  term 
inating  with  a  trefoil  at  the  apex  some  six  feet  high.  It  is  not 
of  stone,  but  stucco.  Four  feet  up  is  the  tureen,  of  which  one 
third  nearly  has  been  buried  in  the  mortar  to  sustain  the  two 
thirds  projecting  from  it.  The  plaster  has  been  scooped  out  to 

*  A  strictly  parallel  case  may  as  well  be  given  from  Gruter :  One  Lucius  was 
sick  of  a  pleurisy,  and  applied  to  Esculapius,  to  whom  he  had  great  devotion.  The 
god  appeared  to  him  in  a  dream,  and  told  him  to  take  ashes  from  his  altar,  mingle 
them  with  wine,  and  apply  them  to  his  side.  He  obeyed,  got  well,  and  hung  up 
in  the  temple  an  acknowledgment  of  the  miraculous  cure. 


262 


SKETCHES   OF 


allow  the  cover  to  be  removed.  In  front  of  the  vessel  a  hole  is 
drilled  to  receive  a  faucet — at  present  filled  with  a  cork.  Be 
low  is  the  basin,  fixed  in  the  same  way.  Then  all  over  the 
remaining  parts  of  the  slab  are  imbedded  tea  and  coffee-cups, 
saucers,  tea-pot  lids,  plates,  preserve-dishes,  etc.,  of  porcelain, 
with  the  painted  sides  outward.  Parts  of  vessels  are  stuck  in 
where  whole  ones  could  not  be.  I  counted  a  dozen  cups,  four 
plates,  between  thirty  and  forty  saucers,  all  whole,  besides  full 
as  many  broken  pieces.  Placed  outside  of  a  building,  it  would 
be  taken  as  the  sign  of  crockery  on  sale  within. 

The  little  cinerary  vase  at  the  foot  is  modern,  of  polished 
rosewood ;  it  contains  the  ashes  of  a  child,  with  the  touching  in 
scription,  "  T.  d'Amor  P." — "  Testimonial  of  a  Father's  Love." 

By  a  flag-staff  near  the  church  a  couple  of  Liliputian  sentries 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL. 


263 


paraded.  Others  were  sweeping  paths  with  bunches  of  leaves. 
Several  Indians  are  among  them,  .chiefly  tamed  ones  from  Jes 
uit  settlements.  The  authorities  pick  them  up  wherever  they 
can,  and  send  them  down  to  the  marine  and  naval  schools  here. 
They  are  said  to  make  good  seamen.  It  was  asserted  that  the 
aborigines,  wild  and  tame,  have  little  regard  for  their  children, 
often  selling  them  for  cachacu  rum  ;  and  that  their  offspring  care 
nothing  for  their  parents.  To  illustrate  this,  the  governor  call 
ed,  at  my  suggestion,  a  little  fellow  from  the  vicinity  of  the  Am 
azon.  In  reply  to  interrogatories,  he  told  us  his  father  was 
dead,  and  he  wanted  to  go  to  his  mother. 

We  ascended  the  roof  to  get  an  uninterrupted  view  of  the 
bay  and  ocean — of  the  city  and  surrounding  scenery — and  such 
a  prospect !  The  sea,  a  sheet  of  silver ;  not  a  ruffle  on  the 
glistening  bay  to  divert  attention  from  its  emerald  isles  and  ver 
dant  shores,  nor  a  cloud  on  the  smiling  face  of  heaven.  It  was 
like  a  scene  in  Eden.  I  shall  not  attempt  to  describe  it,  nor  to 
portray  the  buoyancy  of  mind  and  feeling  it  inspired. 

Not  till  now  did  I  perceive  the  relative  positions  of  the  famous 
peaks  in  the  vicinity  of  Rio :  the  Sugar-loaf,  Two  Brothers, 
Gavia,  Corcovado,  and  Tejuco.  But  here  they  rose  before  us  in 
such  bold  outlines  that  I  could  not  resist  the  impulse  to  sketch 


them  ;  and  the  rather,  as  no  such  view,  I  understand,  has  been 
taken,  notwithstanding  its  conveying  so  clear  an  idea  of  the 
physical  features  of  the  country,  including  even  a  large  portion 


264  SKETCHES   OF 

of  Brazil.     Instead  of  hills  and  dales,  plains  and  valleys,  it  pre 
sents  an  endless  succession  of  mountains,  rocks,  and  ravines. 

The  point  on  the  extreme  left  is  the  site  of  the  Fort  of  Santa 
Cruz.  Outside  of  the  harbor's  mouth  are  Kazee  and  Eond  Isl 
ands.  In  the  range  are  seen  the  Sugar-loaf,  Two  Brothers, 
Gavia,  Corcovado,  Tejuco,  the  Isle  of  Villegagnon,  and  part  of 
the  city,  about  live  miles  off. 

In  a  garret  over  the  vestry,  used  as  a  school-room,  were, 
among  obsolete  apparatus,  two  wooden  friars,  two  feet  high, 
fixed  on  a  base,  and  pointing  to  a  perpendicular  slit  in  a  board 
between  them.  A  short  tin  tube  proceeds  from  the  breast  of 
each.  The  governor  thought  it  was  an  ancient  weather-indi 
cator,  and  that,  when  fair,  the  shaven  crowns  were  exposed ; 
when  wet,  the  cowls,  which  moved  on  joints,  were  raised  to 
shield  them  from  the  rain.  Probably  a  modification  of  the  old 
popular  toy  of  a  man  and  woman  in  a  box :  when  the  sun  is 
out  she  appears,  but  when  a  storm  is  brewing  she  goes  in  and 
sends  her  partner  forth. 

Here  was  also  an  alms-box, 
worn  out  in  service.  It  is  of  an 
oval  form,  made  of  tin  plate,  pro 
vided  with  a  lock,  ornamented 
with  a  picture  of  the  Lady  of  the 
Good  Voyage,  and  with  a  strap  to 
pass  over  the  neck  of  the  collect 
or  when  he  started  forth  to  receive 
contributions  from  her  friends 
among  the  shipping,  and  from  oth 
ers  on  the  city  shore.  It  is  rust 
ed  through  and  through. 

After  dining  with  our  excellent 

host  we  took  our  leave.  On  our  way  down,  we  found  the  In 
dian  child  who  longed  for  his  mother  on  guard.  At  one  spot 
the  granite  seemed  stratified,  the  seams  inclining  at  an  angle  of 
40°.  At  the  water's  edge  it  resembled  an  artificial  pavement, 
the  white  quartz  projecting  half  an  inch  to  an  inch  and  a  half 
from  the  dark  matrix  like  so  many  pebbles.  Having  to  wait 
for  the  steamer,  we  noticed  theatrical  and  other  bills  posted  on 
the  ferry-house  walls,  esmola  boxes  to  receive  contributions  for 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  265 

the  saints,  etc.  It  was  near  dark  ere  we  reached  the  city,  and 
concluded  this  delightful  pilgrimage  of  a  day. 

The  church  of  Boa  Yiagcm  is,  in  some  respects,  well  located. 
No  vessel  can  enter  or  leave  the  harbor  without  passing.it.  No 
votary  comes  in  without  being  reminded  of  his  promised  offer 
ings,  or  goes  out  without  a  lu'nt  of  the  value  of  the  lady's  pro 
tection.  Still,  it  is  too  distant  from  the  city  and  anchorage- 
ground,  and  too  difficult  of  approach.  To  accommodate  all  who 
do  not  like  to  cross  the  Bay,  or  from  other  causes  find  it  incon 
venient  to  go  so  far,  an  office  is  opened  in  the  city,  in  Saint  Lu- 
zia's  Church,  where,  as  we  have  seen,  the  Lady  of  Navigators 
has  an  altar  and  a  cash-box.  In  other  churches,  also,  she  is  in 
voked  by  those  who  wish  to  secure  safe  passages  over  seas  for 
themselves  or  friends,  and  receives  the  acknowledgments  of 
such  as  she  has  saved  from  hurricanes  and  lee  shores.  Many 
a  ton  of  wax  and  the  sails  of  hundreds  of  vessels  have  been  of 
fered  to  her  on  the  island,  but  the  business  is  now  almost  en 
tirely  done  in  the  city. 

Dona  S —  —  told  me  that  she  came  from  Rio  Grande  in  1816 
in  one  of  her  father's  vessels.  The  passage  was  pleasant  till 
within  a  day's  sail  of  the  Sugar-loaf.  A  small  cloud  then  rose 
rapidly  from  the  horizon,  darkness  gathered  over  them,  the  sea 
began  to  swell,  and  other  indications  of  a  storm  so  alarmed  the 
captain,  that  he  called  the  men  aft  and  asked  them  to  join  him 
hi  offering  the  mainsail  to  Francis  de  Paula  on  condition  of  his 
carrying  them  safe  in.  They  agreed.  Dona  S —  -  remem 
bers  them  standing  round  the  commander,  and  with  loud  voices 
calling  on  the  saint,  reminding  him  of  what  they  had  promised, 
each  man  confirming  the  gift  so  far  as  his  proportion  of  the 
cost  went.  On  arriving  safe,  they  paid  for  a  mass,  and  a  few 
days  afterward  went  to  the  saint's  quarters  in  procession,  bare 
foot,  bearing  the  sail  through  the  streets,  with  the  captain  at 
their  head.  The  offering  was  deposited  in  front  of  the  church. 
A  fair  value  was  put  upon  it  in  presence  of  the  priest ;  the  cap 
tain  laid  down  the  money,  and  was  handed  a  receipt  stating 
the  amount  which  the  pious  commander.  Antonio  Martines 
Bezerra,  had  paid  into  the  treasury  of  the  saint,  the  value 
of  his  mainsail,  in  fulfillment  of  a  vow  made  at  the  approach 
of  a  storm  on  such  a  day,  as  an  acknowledgment  of  the  saint's 


266  SKETCHES    OF 

miraculous  interposition  in  behalf  of  himself,  his  ship,  and 
crew. 

Auctions  of  ships'  sails  vowed  to  saints  in  stormy  weather 
were,  till  recently,  quite  common,  and  are  not  yet  obsolete.  The 
captains  always  bought  them  in,  and  not  unfrequently  the  priests 
had  some  one  to  run  them  up,  to  prevent  their  being  knocked 
down  too  low. 

A  regular  receipt  was  always  given.  Similar  scenes  occasion 
ally  take  place  at  St.  Anthony's  Convent,  in  front  of  the  churches 
of  Sts.  Jose,  Sebastian,  Luzia,  and  others ;  but  the  priests  of  St. 
Francis  have  the  greatest  run,  though  this  holy  man  probably 
never  knew  the  difference  between  a  barnacle  and  a  binnacle. 

In  coming  down  from  Pernambuco  in  1831,  my  informant 
says  they  had  unusually  bad  weather  near  the  Abrolhos.  Three 
water-spouts  were  in  sight,  and  one  so  near  that  the  noise  of 
the  ascending  fluid  was  quite  audible.  Instead  of  depending 
on  his  own  energies,  and  stimulating  those,  of  the  crew,  the  cap 
tain  had  recourse  to  the  Lady  of  the  Good  Voyage,  promising 
her  a  large  amount  of  wax  if  she  would  run  them  in  alongside 
her  island  by  the  following  day,  the  4th  of  April.  They  did 
not  get  in  till  the  5th,  and  the  lady  lost  her  reward,  the  cap 
tain  having  no  idea  of  paying  her,  pro  rata,  for  what  she  had 
done — illustrating  the  ancient  saying,  "When  the  danger  is 
over  the  saint  is  neglected." 

It  is  an  old  custom  of  popish  mariners  (and  pagan  ones  too) 
to  scourge  their  patron  saints  when  praying  to  them  fails. 
Whether  the  practice  is  enforced  upon  the  Lady  of  Boa  Viagem 
I  know  not.  It  is  probably  confined  to  the  other  sex.  Anthony 
comes  in  for  many  a  thrashing  at  sea  as  well  as  on  shore,  i.  e., 
in  ordinarily  rough  weather,  for,  when  storms  rage,  recourse  is 
had  to  entreaty  and  to  vows,  according  to  the  proverb,  "  When 
the  pilot  promiseth  wax  and  mass,  it  is  going  ill  with  the  ship." 
As  a  tempest  increases,  the  inducements  held  out  increase  also  ; 
officers  and  men,  by  a  natural  as  well  as  devotional  impulse, 
bidding  higher  and  higher.  Thus  one  or  two  of  the  smaller  sails 
are  first  offered  the  saint ;  if  they  do  not  soften  him,  more  are 
promised,  till  the  main  sheet  is  added,  and,  as  a  last  resource, 
its  weight  in  wax  has  been  given.* 

*  The  custom  of  offering  wax — that  is,  candles,  or  the  material  to  make  them — 


LIFE    IN   BRAZIL.  267 

The  identity  between  institutions,  doctrines,  and  ceremonies 
of  Romanists  and  pagans  was  a  sore  puzzle  to  the  Jesuits  on 
their  first  reaching  China,  Thibet,  and  India.  There  they  found 
monks  and  nuns,  and  hierarchies  from  begging  friars  up  to  ab 
bots,  cardinals,  and  popes,  with  the  usual  appurtenances  to  al 
tars  and  images,  but  confession,  extreme  unction,  and,  what 
was  still  more  perplexing,  a  virgin  represented  with  a  child,  and 
adored  as  the  Queen  of  Heaven,  Holy  Mother,  and  the  Madon 
na.  So,  also,  on  board  of  Oriental  craft,  they  found  little  genii 
set  up  in  cabins,  with  lights  and  other  offerings  before  them, 
as  in  their  own  country  shipping. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

People  of  Color. — Twilight  and  Climate. — Barbonos  Monks. — The  Ex-Nuncio. — 
Henry  A.  Wise  recalled. — Arrival  of  the  Emperor  and  Anxieties  of  Courtiers 
— A  new  Saint. — Mask. — Market  Incident. — St.  Peter's  Church. — N.  S.  Con- 
ceicao. — Plaster  Images  proposed. — Collecting-days  and  Collectors. — Church  of 
the  Mother  of  Men. — Fat  Ladies  and  Gentlemen. — Unctuous  Worship  of  N.  S's. 
Shoe-sole. — Bedini,  the  new  Nuncio. 

April  25.  Here  are  many  wealthy  people  of  color.  I  have 
passed  black  ladies  in  silks  and  jewelry,  with  male  slaves  in 
livery  behind  them.  To-day  one  rode  past  in  her  carriage,  ac 
companied  by  a  liveried  footman  and  a  coachman.  Several 
have  white  husbands.  The  first  doctor  in  the  city  is  a  colored 
man,  so  is  the  President  of  the  province.  The  Viscountess 
C a,  and  scores  of  the  first  families,  are  tinged. 

This  morning  the  brief  duration  of  twilight  was  very  observ 
able.  Within  half  an  hour  the  heavens  changed  from  black  to 
gray,  and  from  gray  to  blue.  Dark  at  half  past  five — at  six,  sun 
rise.  Thus  abruptly  the  business  of  life  is  ushered  in  and  closed. 

by  seamen  is  of  unknown  antiquity.  It  is  mentioned  by  Pitts,  in  the  17th  cen 
tury,  as  practiced  by  the  Moors,  in  storms  to  allay,  and  in  calms  to  secure  a  wind 
When  one  of  their  vessels  was  about  to  pass  the  Straits,  the  sailors  were  accus 
tomed  "  to  make  a  gathering  of  small  wax  candles,  which  they  usually  carry  with 
them,  and  bind  them  in  a  bundle,  and  then,  together  with  a  pot  of  oil,  throw  them 
overboard,  as  a  present  to  the  marabout  or  saint  who  lies  entombed  there  on  the 
Barbary  shore,  not  in  the  least  doubting  but  the  present  will  come  safe  to  the? 
marabout's  hands." — A  Faithful  Account  of  the  Religion  and  Manners  of  the  Mo 
hammedans.  London,  1731. 


268  SKETCHES   OF 

The  heat,  so  uniform,  and  the  lassitude  it  induces,  make  peo 
ple  seek  repose  at  early  hours.  Here  is  nothing  like  our  social 
gossipings  over  winter's  fires.  Verily,  the  pleasures  of  perpet 
ual  summer,  of  flowers  ever  blooming,  and  of  weather  ever 
warm,  are  not  all  that  poets  make  them.  They  become  monot 
onous,  and  cease  to  charm.  The  body  languishes,  and  the 
mind  itself  begins  to  lose  its  vigor.  At  any  rate,  a  feeling  of 
the  kind  makes  me  long  for  the  elasticity  that  attends  a  north 
ern  spring,  which  makes  the  blood,  like  that  of  plants,  leap 
through  the  veins.  Not  insensible  to  the  glories  of  the  tropics, 
I  prefer  the  alternations  of  the  temperate  zones — snow,  and  ice, 
and  summer's  sun. 

In  going  to  town,  I  overtook  three  of  the  monks  recently  re 
turned  in  a  Genoese  vessel  from  a  mission  to  the  Holy  Land. 
They  have  brought  home  select  articles  of  vertu :  scraps  of  the 
Virgin's  veil  and  of  Peter's  scapulary,  chaplets  in  great  variety, 
pieces  of  the  true  cross,  etc.  To  my  fancy,  they  are,  as  they 
shuffle  on  before  me,  with  fresh-shaven  crowns  and  newly-wash 
ed  legs,  enormous  white  beaver  hats,  pinched  up  like  canoes, 
and  carried  in  their  hands,  flapping  cowls  and  knotted  belts, 
from  which  large  beads,  like  strings  of  onions,  hang,  as  great 
curiosities  as  any  imported  from  the  Old  World  into  the  new 
one.  They  belong  to  the  "Barbonos"  or  Bearded  Friars. 
Their  house  or  monastery  is  in  Barbonos  Street,  and  the  great 
er  part  of  it  sacrilegiously  Occupied  as  a  blacksmithing  establish 
ment  ;  and,  worse  than  all,  by  one  of  the  monks  who  threw 
aside  his  cassock  at  the  epoch  of  independence,  and  who,  maugre 
the  denunciations  of  his  brethren  and  their  efforts  to  eject  him, 
keeps  four  forges  going. 

There  is  not  a  fountain  in  Rio  but  presents,  with  the  land 
scape  of  which  it  makes  the  foreground,  the  elements  of  a  picture, 
and  some  are  eminently  picturesque.  For  several  days  I  have 
been  endeavoring  to  secure  their  outlines.  After  visiting  one 
( his  morning  in  Engenho  Velha,  I  continued  along  the  avenue  to 
the  residence  of  the  Hon.  Henry  A.  Wise,  and  spent  the  day 
with  him  and  his  amiable  lady. 

The  ex-nuncio,  an  old  gentleman  in  a  three-cornered  hat  and 
red  stockings,  called  to  take  leave  of  Mr.  Wise,  having  been  su 
perseded,  and,  as  report  goes,  by  a  deep-designing  Jesuit.  He 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  269 

is  reputed  to  have  been  too  liberal  to  suit  the  views  of  the  Vat 
ican,  and  too  enlightened  to  sanction  the  popular  superstitions. 
He  says  the  people  here  have  no  religion  ;  they  worship  images, 
and  delight  only  in  the  grossest  of  Church  usages,  while  the 
clergy  are  notorious  for  the  worst  of  vices.  He  was  once  asked 
why  the  Pope  did  not  send  a  legate  to  preside  over  the  Roman 
ists  in  the  United  States.  His  reply  was,  "  There  is  no  need 
of  one.  The  clergy  there  are  more  spiritual  than  any  where 
else.  Their  conflicts  with  Protestant  sects  keep  them  pure." 

[Mr.  Wise  was  subsequently  recalled.  If  the  published  ac 
counts  of  the  first  interview  of  one  of  his  successors  with  the 
court  are  to  be  relied  on,  there  is  a  passage  in  Plutarch  respect 
ing  two  Theban  embassadors  to  the  Persian  monarch  worth 
transcribing:  "Pelopidas  submitted  to  nothing  unworthy  of 
his  country  or  his  character,  but  Ismenias,  when  commanded  to 
adore  the  king,  dropped  his  ring,  that,  stooping  to  pick  it  up,  he 
might  make  the  required  prostration."  There  are  Republicans 
without  even  the  virtue  of  Ismenias — who  pander  to  royalty  to 
an  extent  that,  in  an  Athenian  or  Spartan  embassador,  would 
have  been  punished  with  death.] 

26th.  The  morning  papers  announced  the  probable  arrival  of 
the  emperor  from  his  southern  tour,  and  by  noon  the  expected 
frigate  entered  the  Bay.  Guns  at  the  fort  and  flags  on  Castle 
Hill  proclaimed  the  news.  Hackney-carriages  and  liveries  are 
in  fierce  demand — flowers  too,  to  shower  on  the  monarch  and 
his  queen.  Ladies  for  some  time  back  have  been  preparing 
their  dresses,  and  gentlemen  also — men  of  fifty,  ex-councilors 
and  senators,  consulting  about  costumes  in  which  to  join  the 
procession ;  whether  to  dress  like  the  courtiers  of  Francis  L, 
Henry  IV.,  or  to  imitate  those  of  Louis  XIV. !  studying,  more 
over,  in  what  drapery  their  youngest  sons  should,  by  waiting 
on  their  imperial  majesties  to-day,  "  take  the  first  step  in  nobil 
ity,"  for  such  is  the  expression. 

It  is  amusing  to  hear,  as  we  have  heard  for  the  last  two 
hours,  of  gentlemen  at  their  wits'  end  in  consequence  of  the  dil- 
atoriness  of  the  artists  on  whose  skill  their  hopes  have  been 
placed ;  but  the  delay,  in  one  or  more  instances,  is  known  to 
be  due  to  alterations  ordered  after  the  last  cut  and  finish  had 
been  repeatedly  given.  On  this  account,  and  because  some  pub- 


270  SKETCHES   OF 

lie  decorations  are  not  quite  complete,  a  deputation  has  been  off 
to  ask  the  emperor  to  remain  on  board  till  to-morrow,  when 
every  thing  will  be  ready  to  receive  him.  He  is  said  to  have 
given  an  emphatic  refusal. 

He  landed  at  4  P.M.  A  light  rain  fell,  but  a  procession  wa? 
formed  from  the  Bay  to  the  palace,  consisting  of  officers  of  the 
army,  navy,  and  the  Church,  ministers  of  state,  gentlemen  of 
the  bed-chamber,  and  a  fair  bevy  of  maids  of  honor.  Pedro 
walked  under  a  canopy.  Six  feet  three  inches  tall,  his  wife 
with  difficulty  reached  his  arm.  Some  of  the  officers  of  the 
household  had  their  sons  with  them — lads  of  eight,  ten,  and 
twelve,  dressed  in  court  costume.  Several  had  the  Tight  to  at 
tend,  from  having  rendered  personal  service  to  the  emperor,  and 
becoming  thereby  ex  officio  members  of  the  household.  Inquir 
ing  what  the  nature  of  the  service  was,  I  was  told  such  as  pick 
ing  up  his  handkerchief,  presenting  him  a  towel  after  dinner. 
a  tooth-pick,  or  a  snuff-box,  for  which  their  fathers  or  friends 
contrive  to  give  them  an  opportunity.  They  are  named  "  the 
emperor's  young  and  noble  servants,"  a  title,  with  the  privileges, 
much  sought  after.  At  the  christening  of  the  little  prince,  four 
of  them  climbed  the  first  rung  of  glory's  ladder  by  carrying  a 
cloth  to  wipe  the  child  after  being  anointed. 

As  a  fact  indicative  of  republican  feeling,  a  young  Brazilian 
of  my  acquaintance  refused  to  succeed  his  father  as  "a  gentle 
man  of  the  bed-chamber,"  saying  he  would  perform  no  such 
services  for  any  man. 

The  bishop  informs  the  public  through  the  "  Jornal"  that  he 
has  designated  the  10th  proximo  for  the  inauguration  of  the 
new  saint  brought  from  the  catacombs  at  Rome,  to  which  day 
we  will  postpone  our  notice  of  her. 

27^A.  Met  a  negro  with  an  iron  mask  in  his  hand,  probably 
to  put  on  one  of  his  fellow-slaves,  or  possibly  himself;  he  look 
ed  sorrowful  enough  for  either  contingency. 

An  exciting  scene  to  a  stranger  was  the  unloading  of  several 
faluas.  Laughing  and  yelling  slaves  came  wading  through  the 
muddy  surf  with  crockery-ware,  coffee,  and  other  inland  produce 
on  their  heads.  A  cargo  of  the  former  they  spread  out  on  clean 
spots  of  Palace  Square. 

Stepping  into  the  market,  an  old  man  at  the  doorway  offered 


SKETCHES   OF  271 

me  a  little  framed  picture.  "  My  friend,"  quoth  I,  "  I  don't 
want  it ;"  but  he  so  persisted  in  holding  it  up  before  me  by  a 
loop,  that,  to  satisfy  him,  I  took  it  in  hand,  and  lo !  it  was  a 
thin  rectangular  alms-box,  having  a  dirty  engraving  of  some 
saint  pasted  on  one  side.  A  negro,  crippled  and  awfully  disfig 
ured  by  elephantiasis,  seated  on  the  steps,  watched  us  closely, 
and  when  I  handed  back  the  box,  burst  into  such  a  shriek  of 
laughter  as  I  suppose  is  seldom  heard  out  of  Africa.  On  re 
ceiving  it,  the  man  seemed  all  but  transfixed.  He  wore  a  with 
ered  alb,  and  was  taking  up  collections  for  the  saint  figured  on 
the  box.  I  am  told  his  amazement  probably  arose  as  much 
from  my  neglecting  to  kiss  the  portrait  as  from  not  contribu 
ting,  no  one  taking  in  hand  such  holy  things  without  carrying 
them  to  the  lips.  Were  the  Savior  to  revisit  the  earth  and 
walk  through  this  market,  would  he  drop  alms  into  the  recepta 
cle  of  sacerdotal  mendicants,  or  into  the  hands  of  poor  black  La- 
zaruses  at  their  feet  ? 

In  Rua  San  Pedro  I  found  the  dark  and  little  church  dedica 
ted  to  him  open,  and  went  in.  It  is  slightly  elliptical,  with  a 
domed  roof,  divided  into  panels,  in  which  mitres,  crooks,  and 
kindred  symbols  figure.  Here  are  two  side  shrines,  at  one  of 
which  a  priest  and  lad  were  performing  mass.  Not  a  worshiper 
present  except  an  old  negress  and  myself.  In  a  few  minutes 
the  priest  finished,  folded  something  up  in  a  cloth,  and,  with  his 
assistant,  retired.  Among  a  group  of  little  statues  at  one  shrine 
was  Becket,  with  a  knife  sticking  in  his  skull.  While  trying 
to  make  out  the  others,  a  dark  shadow  swept  over  the  floor,  ac 
companied  with  a  slam.  I  turned ;  the  old  black  woman  had 
vanished,  and  a  half  naked  negro  was  staring  at  me  with  the 
church  keys  in  his  hand.  Here  are  some  good  old  carvings, 
but  the  names  of  the  images,  large  and  small,  I  could  not  ex 
tract  from  the  grinning  sacristan.  The  only  intelligent  replies 
as  I  pointed  to  each  were  "  San  Pedro"  and  "  San  Gonsalves.'' 

I  next  toiled  up  Mount  Concei9§o  to  the  bishop's  palace — 
a  plain  two-story  structure,  with  nothing  observable  about  it 
but  its  location  and  pompous  name.  I  have  already  remarked 
that  here  the  constituted  servants  of  the  Lord  are  lords  of  the 
hills,  and  own  no  small  part  of  the  city  valleys  too,  while  in 
the  interior  some  ecclesiastical  orders  can  exclaim  with  God 


272  SKETCHES    OF 

himself,  "Every  beast  of  the  forest  is  ours,  and  the  cattle  upon 
a  thousand  hills." 

Turning  into  Violas  Street,  I  came  to  a  very  mean-looking 
church.  The  door  was  closed,  but  a  side  passage  led  into  the 
vestry,  where  were  huge  collections  of  ex  votos,  and  among 
them  quite  a  number  of  babies — and  properly  so,  since  this  is 
the  temple  of  the  Lady  da  Concei9ao.  Masons  were  replaster- 
ing  the  niches  in  the  cemetery,  of  which  there  are  ninety.  An 
open  door  showed  a  negro  taking  up  an  old  carpet  near  the  altar. 
Stepping  in,  I  found  myself  close  to  the  goddess  of  the  place,  and 
was  greatly  disappointed  in  finding  the  most  popular  of  Brazil 
ian  patronesses — the  lady  par  excellence — she  to  whom  the  em 
peror's  mother  cried  for  a  boy,  and  had  him  sent  her — in  so 
wretched  a  home,  and  so  sooty  and  shabbily  dressed!  And 
who  could  have  expected  that  this  lady,  of  all  others,  should 
be  represented  in  a  four-foot  doll,  with  garments  stained  and  tar 
nished  as  if  from  standing  years  in  a  toy-shop  window? 

Were  I  familiar  with  ecclesiastical  managers,  I  would  suggest 
the  replacing  of  the  legions  of  their  wooden  ladies  and  gentle 
men  with  saints  cast  in  Paris  plaster.  Such,  from  their  snowy 
whiteness,  their  freedom  from  spots  and  stains,  would  harmon 
ize  with,  and  even  suggest  ideas  of  moral  purity,  and  conse 
quently  be  contemplated  with  more  advantage  than  images 
which  irresistibly  lead  one  to  associate  those  they  represent 
with  sluttery  or  with  rakes,  who,  having  spent  their  fortunes, 
have  nothing  left  but  shabby  finery.  To  keep  these  fading  char 
acters  in  fit  condition  to  edify  the  devout,  the  services  of  a  host 
of  artists  are  constantly  required,  and  are  secured  when  funds 
are  provided,  but  when  these  are  wanting,  a  coat  of  paint  and 
varnish,  to  improve  the  complexion  of  their  faces  and  cleanse 
their  hands,  is  about  all  that  is  done  for  them,  and  that  only 
once,  or,  it  may  be,  twice  in  a  generation.  Now  saints  in  plas 
ter  can  have  new  suits  for  nothing.  They  would  always  be 
"at  home,"  and  dressed  in  character — never  denied  to  visit 
ing  friends  for  being  in  an  undress,  and  unfit  to  receive  com 
pany.  In  the  murkiest  churches,  the  most  they  could  require 
would  be  a  dipping  in  lime  and  water  once  or  twice  a  year. 

Images  are  peculiar  to  and  essential  to  Polytheism.  Orig 
inating  in  low  stages  of  mental  development,  it  is  difficult  to 


LIFE   IN    BRAZIL.  273 

imagine  how,  without  them,  any  thing  like  uniformity  of  views 
respecting  the  persons,  attributes,  and  functions  of  legions  of 
invisible  beings  invoked  could  have  been  established  in  the 
minds  of  the  ignorant  masses.  What  confusion  if  every  imag 
ination  had  been  left  to  conjure  up  figures  of  the  gods  for  itself  I 
Standard  patterns  removed  the  difficulty  ;  being  greatly  multi 
plied  and  met  with  every  where,  in  public  grounds,  gardens, 
temples,  and  private  dwellings,  they  circulated  like  modern 
tracts,  and  kept  alive  a  knowledge  of  the  chief  characteristics  of 
each  divinity.  They  were  books  that  were  never  closed,  and 
such  as  all  could  peruse  and  comprehend.  What  they  were 
to  the  heathen  they  are  to  the  untutored  Romanists — indis 
pensable.  Independent  of  the  part  they  have  played  in  human 
history,  they  are  not  without  interest  when  viewed  simply  as  an 
invention  by  which  sensible  media  were  made  to  convey  definite 
ideas  on  spiritual  things. 

Every  church  has  services  somewhat  peculiar  to  itself,  in  con 
sequence  of  the  special  divinity  to  whom  it  is  dedicated.  Bui 
there  are  weekly  masses,  exclusive  of  those  on  Sundays,  com 
mon  to  all  parish  churches,  and  on  the  days  they  are  celebrated 
collectors  go  forth  to  ask  alms  to  meet  the  expense.  Thus,  in 
the  Cattete,  every  Monday  a  man  knocks  at  our  door  for  a  do 
nation  to  release  imprisoned  souls  ;  on  Thursdays,  "  for  the 
sacrament;"  on  Saturdays  the  cry  is,  "Wax  for  Our  Lady.v 
For  some  purposes  these  men  do  not  go  beyond  their  parisL 
boundaries,  while  for  others  they  canvass  the  city  at  large.  Ev 
ery  day  more  or  less  are  out.  On  Thursdays  they  are  so  nu 
merous  as  to  be  met  with  every  where.  They  call  at  every 
door,  and  enter  every  store,  no  matter  what  number  of  custom 
ers  are  within,  nor  how  much  proprietors  are  engaged. 

Tuesdays  are  appropriated  to  replenish  the  purse  of  the  treas 
urers  of  Nossa  Senhora  da  Concei9ao.  Friday  is  the  day  for  the 
friends  of  the  Lady  of  Pains  to  do  what  they  can  for  her.  Every 
few  weeks  an  old  gentleman  appeals  to  us  for  the  Lady  of  Lam- 
padoza,  and  another  gives  us  frequent  opportunities  of  securing 
the  good  will  of  Luzia.  Every  saint  that  holds  a  feast  has  a 
collector.  Once  a  month  an  agent  of  Antonio's  Convent  comes 
round ;  hence  these  fathers  canvass  the  city  twelve  times  a  year. 
Wearing  a  primitive  Quaker's  hat,  a  coarse  black  gown,  be- 

S 


274  LIFE    IN  BRAZIL. 

neath  the  skirts  of  which  his  bare  legs  are  seen,  with  a  dark, 
lono*  bag  in  his  hand  or  slung  over  his  shoulder,  he  draws  up  at 
the  door  or  window.  His  cry  is,  "  For  the  friars  of  St.  Anthony." 
Under  a  vow  of  poverty,  these  mendicants  originally  asked  only 
for  bread ;  hence  the  bag  is  still  carried,  and  occasionally 
charged  with  victuals,  but  the  collections  generally  are  in  coin. 
When  money  is  given  him,  the  rule  now  is  to  pull  out  a  loaf 
from  the  bag,  to  intimate  that  for  bread  it  will  be  expended. 

Impressions  derived  from  accounts  of  the  old  barefooted  friars 
are  hardly  sustained  by  a  personal  acquaintance  with  their 
modern  representatives.  The  romance  of  the  character  is  very 
much  dissipated.  Formerly  the  duty  of  asking  alms  was  per 
formed  by  respectable  members  of  the  brotherhoods  from  relig 
ious  motives,  but  of  late  years  they  have  begun  to  decline  it. 
The  collectors,  being  poor  men,  are  often  charged  with  defraud 
ing  the  saints  whose  agents  they  are.  Dona  B—  -  says  the 
old  chap  in  her  district  pockets  considerable !  It  is,  however, 
an  old  popish  sentiment  that  he  who  begs  for  God  collects  for 

-_L nfc—  -fjrijj-i _J...,    -!-->.      ,j       ,  J|  .  •,1».«..^.     „     ^,.T-_" .- " 

two.  The  amount  yearly  taken  up  must  be  a  large  one ;  and 
~were  it  expended  for  educational  purposes,  illuminating  the 
minds  of  the  living  instead  of  attempting  to  alter  the  condition 
of  the  dead,  and  stocking  churches  with  toys  and  bawbles,  it 
would  prove  a  public  blessing.  It  is  a  poor  compliment  to  pa 
tron  saints  to  suppose  they  can  be  gratified  with  the  puerile 
honors  paid  them.  If  they  are  tickled  with  such  things,  they 
are  not  worth  tickling. 

The  little  church  of  Mai  dos  Homens — mother  of  men — in 
Alfandega  Street,  being  open,  I  stepped  in.  Black  and  white 
upholsterers  had  sole  possession,  preparing  it  for  a  festival. 
Some,  on  bamboo  ladders,  were  tacking  up  hangings  and  bor 
ders  ;  others  covering  skeleton  columns  with  red  cloth  and  gimp 
edging.  There  are  only  two  auxiliary  shrines.  The  glass  be 
fore  the  images  was  so  much  in  want  of  washing  that  I  could 
not  make  out  who  they  were. 

29M.  The  public  walk  or  garden  was  illuminated  this  even-, 
ing  in  compliment  to  the  emperor.  For  the  first  time  since  I 
have  been  here  there  was  in  it  quite  a  throng.  Some  of  the 
handsomest  and  some  of  the  fattest  ladies  and  gentlemen  I  ever 
saw  were  among  the  promenaders. 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL. 


275 


I  was  on  my  way  to  H—  —  's,  who  agreed  to  accompany  me 
to  the  house  of  Senhor  Barboza.  He  had  gone  to  visit  the  Cap 
uchins,  so  we  strolled  up  and  found  him  in  the  vestry.  While 
we  stood  facing  the  framed  pattern  of  Mary's  shoe-sole,  a  colored 
man  came  between  it  and  us,  and,  put 
ting  his  hands  against  the  whitewashed 
wall,  pressed  his  mouth  and  rubbed  his 
nose  against  it.  Shortly  after,  a  re- 
"Mira^'HH  spectable  white  man  came  in,  and  sa- 

^^SJjfe^r  luting  it  three  separate  times,  passed 

into  the  chapel,  where  I  found  him 
with  his  colored  predecessor,  half  an 
hour  after,  both  on  their  knees.  Two 
cloud-like  patches  were  on  the  wall 
right  and  left  of  the  frame — stains  left 
by  the  hands  of  the  worshipers.  These 
unctuous  proofs  of  devotion  had  accu 
mulated  since  my  previous  visit.  The  central  parts  were  dark 
as  umber.  A  long  bench  beneath  the  picture  rendered  it  neces 
sary  to  use  the  hands  in  this  act  of  piety. 

Coming  down,  we  met  the  new  nuncio — or  nounce,  as  the 
word  is  pronounced — with  a  white  youth  in  flaming  livery  be 
hind  him.  M.  Bedini  is  said  to  be  the  confidential  adviser  of 
his  countrymen,  the  unpopular  Capuchins,  whom  he  was  climb 
ing  and  panting  to  visit. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Pluvial  Deity. — Aqueduct  Records.  —  Pope  John. — Ecclesiastical  "Cries."  — 
Slaves. — Army  Recruits. — The  Emperor  opens  the  Legislature. — Fires  and  Fire- 
engines. — Slaves. — Suicide. — Begging  for  the  Holy  Ghost. — Auction  of  Slaves. 

May  1.  This  morning  every  black  peak  pulled  down  its  cloud. 
A  milk-white  one  hung  like  an  apron  on  the  hunchback's  breast, 
leaving  his  rough  head  alone  exposed,  as  if  the  freak  was  to  im 
itate  a  negro  in  the  barber's  hands.  Surely  the  Pluvial  deity 
and  the  nymphs  his  daughters  have  few  locations  more  congen 
ial  than  this.  The  glens  and  glades,  the  leaping  streams  and 


276  SKETCHES   OF 

gurgling  eddies,  seem  expressly  made  for  wood  and  water  god 
desses  to  sport  and  splash  in.  There  are  seasons,  however, 
when  the  gushing  rivulets  are  reduced  to  broken  threads,  trick 
ling  feebly  on,  and  scarcely  able  to  prevent  evaporation  taking 
all :  then  the  Corcovado  driads  mourn,  and  the  Tejucan  naiads 
lean  pensive  over  their  empty  pitchers,  then  the  city  fountains 
begin  to  fail,  and  anxious  mortals  entreat  the  showery  deity  to 
incline  his  vase  and  let  the  rain  come  down  in  earnest.  As 
elsewhere,  when  they  have  got  enough,  they  beg  him  to  turn 
the  talha  up. 

Spent  part  of  the  day  in  the  Office  of  Public  Works,  and  was 
greatly  surprised  at  learning  that  no  document  is  extant  relat 
ing  to  the  origin  and  history  of  the  great  Carioco  aqueduct. 

H and  I  passed  through  the  new  buildings  erecting  for 

the  Mizericordia.  On  a  pile  of  stones  lay  a  marble  slab  be 
longing  to  the  old  burying-ground.  An  inscription  signified 
that  Pope  John  XXII.  had  granted  to  all  the  faithful  who  re 
peated  a  subjoined  prayer  "  as  many  days'  indulgence  as  bod 
ies  are  buried  here"  It  begins  with  "  God  bless  you,  Christian 
souls."  Such  prayers  have,  it  is  said,  virtue  in  them  yet,  and 
that,  too,  in  a  land  not  heard  of  till  more  than  a  century  after 
John  himself  had  been  buried. 

We  met  an  alms  collector  quite  cast  down  at  his  poor  suc 
cess.  He  told  H the  priest  had  detained  him  so  long  that 

other  esmoleiros  had  been  round  and  left  him  nothing  to  glean. 
His  dish  was  an  old  article  of  silver,  six  inches  over,  and  three 
deep.  On  the  flaring  rim  was  engraved,  "  Frequezia  do  Santis- 
simo  Sacramento  do  Se."  Here  are  a  few  ecclesiastical  cries 
with  which  I  have  become  somewhat  familiar : 

Para  a  cera  de  Nossa  Senhora  da  Gloria. 

Esmola  para  O  Divino. 

Para  Santa  Luzia  Milagraza. 

Para  a  Propaga9ao  da  Fe  (Capuchin's  cry). 

Para  a  Santissimo  Cora9ao  do  Jesus. 

Para  a  Frades  de  San  Antonio. 

Para  a  cera  do  Santissimo  Sacramento. 

Para  a  Missa  das  Almas. 

And  so  on  for  Joseph,  Joaquim,  Anne,  the  ladies  Piedade,  Con- 
cei9ao,  do  Parto,  Dores,  Terco,  and  many  more. 


SKETCHES   OF 


277 


The  friars  of  Anthony  are  candid — their  cry  is  openly  for 
themselves  ;  at  the  same  time,  they  are  prohibited  from  touch 
ing  money ;  but  no  quiero  mas  echad/melo  en  la  capilla  is  not  a 
proverb  of  yesterday. 

2d.  While  waiting  for  Colonel  F—  — ,  whose  office  is  not  far 
from  the  Matadoura,  a  dozen  at  least  of  butchers'  slaves  went 
past  in  the  course  of  an  hour  with  crushing  loads  of  fresh-killed 
beef.  The  flesh  was  warm ;  it  smoked,  and  all  but  quivered. 

One  poor  fellow  had  a  col 
lar,  and  a  chain  extending 
from  it  to  an  ankle  ;  he 
belonged  to  a  meat-shop 
in  the  Cattete.  Two  hind 
quarters  are  a  common 
load.  Other  slaves  went 
by,  awfully  crippled  in 
their  feet  and  legs ;  among 
them  two  women,  lame 
with  elephantiasis,  with 
light  loads.  The  right  leg 
of  one  was  really  almost 
as  large  as  her  waist.  A 
purblind  man,  with  a  talha 
of  water  on  his  head,  crept  along,  feeling  his  way  with  a  stick. 
Some  Minas  girls,  dealers  in  fowls,  smartly  dressed,  and  with 
tribal  scars  on  their  faces,  passed  on  laughing.  Each  had  a 
wide  basket  and  a  supplemental  chicken  in  her  hand,  holding  it, 
as  the  custom  is  here,  by  the  wings.  Of  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  blacks  who  thus  passed  by,  all  were  slaves  save  one. 
Tlis  feet  were  thrust  into  a  pair  of  old  shoes  or  slippers — the 
badge  of  freedom.  Proud  of  wearing  the  same  covering  to  their 
feet  as  white  people  wear,  some  pay  dear  for  the  gratification. 
When  men  are  wanted  for  the  army,  a  keen  look-out  is  kept  up 
for  them.  Those  aware  of  their  danger  go  barefoot,  and  some 
times  throw  the  recruiting  officers  off  their  guard,  as  slaves  can 
not  be  impressed. 

I  met,  a  few  days  ago,  a  hundred  recruits  just  coming  in  from 
a  northern  province.  They  were  nearly  all  colored  ;  one  third 
were  Indians.  "  How  long  do  they  enlist  for  ?"  I  asked.  "They 


278  SKETCHES    OF 

don't  enlist  at  all,"  was  the  answer.  They  are  caught  and  made 
to  serve.  Governors  have  orders  to  send  down  all  disorderly 
fellows,  and  such  Indians  as  they  can  catch. 

3d.  As  the  emperor  opens  the  legislative  session  to-day, 

H and  I  walked  over  to  the  senate-chamber — a  plain  room, 

forty  feet  square,  with  an  internal  arrangement  similar  to  that 
of  most  of  our  state  chambers.  The  throne  is  a  high-backed 
chair,  placed  against  the  wall  behind  the  presiding  officer's  seat, 
and  set  off  with  drapery.  The  hour  had  arrived,  and  not  over 
fifty  spectators  in  the  gallery,  although  admittance  was  free. 
With  the  exception  of  four  priests,  both  senators  and  deputies 
were  in  official  costume — white  pants  with  laced  seams,  green 
coats  buttoned  up  to  the  chin  and  half  covered  with  lace, 
swords,  and  chapeaux.  Most  were  of  middle  stature  and  cor 
pulent — not  a  Cassius  among  them. 

Brazilians  do  not  lack  the  elements  of  greatness,  but  a  pa 
triot  in  homespun — a  Franklin,  Phocion,  or  Dentatus — would 
hardly  be  appreciated. 

An  aerial  looking  personage,  powdered  and  uniquely  draped, 
tripped  in  and  out.  I  took  him  for  master  of  ceremonies,  but 
he  was  Speaker  of  the  Chamber  of  Deputies.  The  President 
of  the  Senate  now  rang  his  bell.  The  secretary  read  the  roll, 
and  about  twenty  answered  to  their  names.  A  committee  was 
detailed  to  wait  on  the  emperor,  and  presently  he  entered,  with 
long  but  very  deliberate  steps,  resting  the  forward  foot  till  the 
rear  one  got  up  and  halted,  precisely  as  players  tread  the  stage. 
He  carried  a  long  gilt  staff  in  manner  of  a  walking-stick,  grasp 
ing  it  two  feet  below  the  top,  as  hermits  are  sometimes  painted. 
From  where  I  sat,  I  might  have  touched  the  finial  that  crowned 
it.  He  had  nearly  reached  the  throne,  when  a  gentleman  came 
in,  holding  up  with  both  hands  the  continuation  of  his  train  or 
mantle.  He  had  necessarily  to  remain  with  his  back  to  us  till 
this  long  piece  of  drapery  was  gathered  up,  as  he  could  not  turn 
till  this  was  done  without  being  tripped  up. 

At  last  the  troublesome  appendage  is  coiled  up  and  laid  on 
the  floor  by  his  chair,  he  leans  the  staff  against  the  wall,  turns, 
inclines  his  head  right  and  left,  and,  dropping  into  the  chair, 
begs  the  senators  to  be  seated.  An  officer  hands  him  "the 
speech."  He  reads  it  well — I  should  say  very  well.  His 


LIFE    IN   BRAZIL.  279 

enunciation  is  rapid,  but  distinct,  and  agreeably  diversified  with 
emphasis.  His  voice  is  rather  feminine.  It  is  musical,  but 
slightly  nasal,  as  if  he  indulged  in  snuff.  Running  down  three 
pages  of  the  foolscap  sheet,  he  handed  it  back  to  the  officer, 
arose,  slightly  nodded  to  the  empress  in  the  gallery,  took  the 
staff,  gave  a  glance  behind,  where  the  train-bearer — a  marquis — 
was  shaking  it  out,  bows  to  the  senators,  and  goes  out  as  he  en 
tered.  The  performance  lasted  about  twelve  minutes. 

His  dress  was  in  imitation  of  some  ancient  monarch's.  (He 
was  married  in  the  costume  of  Francis  I.)  His  throat  was  na 
ked,  and  surrounded  like  a  school-boy's  by  his  shirt-frill,  whose 
triple  row  of  edging  rested  on  an  ermine  tippet  that  reached  to 
his  elbows.  His  arms  were  in  close  white  satin  sleeves,  that 
met  gloves  of  the  same  material,  with  ribbons  and  ruffles  at  the 
wrists.  From  the  tippet  to  his  toes  he  was  in  white  satin ;  his 
very  shoes  and  roses  on  them  were  of  it,  and  the  whole  so  close 
ly  fitted  to  the  upper  and  nether  limbs  that,  divested  of  the  train 
and  tippet,  he  might  have  been  taken  any  where  else  for  a  pan 
taloon,  or,  judging  from  the  long  pole  he  leaned  on,  for  a  rope- 
dancer  about  to  turn  a  somerset. 

So  excessively  punctilious  in  trifles  as  Brazilians  are,  there 
was  one  part  of  the  performance  not  quite  the  thing.  The  chair 
was  either  too  low  or  the  legs  of  Pedro  too  long.  It  seemed  as 
if,  on  sitting  down,  he  became  aware  that  he  could  not  keep 
them  upright  without  some  part  of  his  dress  giving  way;  and  as 
it  would  have  been  undignified  to  throw  them  out  in  front,  he 
was  compelled  to  coil  them  under  the  seat,  where,  judging  from 
their  restlessness,  they  were  very  unhappy.  (Like  other  histri 
onic  gentlemen,  royal  actors  must  submit  to  theatrical  criticism.) 
The  crown  worn  by  this  modern  cacique  is  a  large  spheroidal, 
ungraceful  mass,  which  at  a  distance  might  be  taken  for  a  head 
preternaturally  enlarged  with  hydrocephalus.  It  seems  to  have 
been  made  after  the  pattern  of  an  orange  or  melon.  The  orbic 
ular  sections  meet  at  the  top,  support  a  globe — the  earth — and 
over  it — the  church's  emblem — a  cross  shoots  up  conspicuously. 

Nothing  of  interest  occurring,  we  left,  and  found  the  emperor 
waiting  for  the  empress  in  a  low,  old-fashioned,  and  open  car 
riage,  said  to  have  belonged  to  Sebastian,  who  lost  his  life  war 
ring  with  the  Moors.  Here  he  remained  five  or  six  minutes 


280  SKETCHES   OF 

longer.  Besides  the  guards,  not  over  twenty  persons  were 
about,  and  hardly  a  moiety  of  them  paid  more  attention  to  him 
than  to  his  coachman.  Not  a  hat  was  raised,  nor  a  viva  utter 
ed  ;  nor  did  he  court  any  thing  of  the  kind.  Pertinaciously 
looking  up,  none  could  catch  his  eye.  He  was  evidently  act 
ing — putting  in  practice  the  royal  aphorism,  "  Avoid  familiar 
ity  with  the  masses."  He  finally  was  whirled  off  with  no  more 
eclat  than  attends  the  departure  of  a  common  stage.  The  gilt 
staff,  I  am  told,  is  the  sceptre — an  ensign  that  I  supposed  never 
exceeded  one  third  of  its  length. 

5th.  The  bell  of  the  Antonio  Convent  rang  an  alarm  of  fire. 
It  was  in  a  store  near  by.  Desirous  of  witnessing  the  manage 
ment  in  such  cases,  I  arrived  before  the  engine.  Dense  smoke 
was  issuing  from  the  doorway  and  windows.  Two  negroes 
came  along,  screaming  and  dragging  an  engine,  accompanied  by 
an  officer  in  a  blue  roundabout  and  a  brass-handled  sword  in 
hand.  The  machine  consisted  of  an  open  copper  cistern  on 
wheels,  containing  two  pump  cylinders,  the  pistons  of  which 
were  connected  to  a  lever,  and  worked  fore  and  aft  by  a  man  at 
each  end.  The  apparatus  was  identical  with  those  of  Europe 
in  the  seventeenth  century.  To  feed  it,  a  water-cart  was 
brought  up,  and  the  contents  drawn  into  buckets  and  poured 
into  the  cistern.  A  small  hose  conveyed  the  water  to  the 
flames. 

In  a  couple  of  hours  all  was  over,  and  but  little  damage  done. 
In  New  York,  an  entire  block  had  been  consumed  under  the 
circumstances,  for  the  little  garden  pump — it  was  no  larger — 
would  have  been  all  but  useless.  It  might  be  suspected  that 
conflagrations  in  tropical  cities  like  Rio  would  be  frequent  and 
extensive.  The  reverse  is  the  fact.  They  seldom  occur,  and 
rarely  is  a  house  destroyed — not  one,  I  am  told,  in  many  years. 
The  cause  is  partly  to  be  ascribed  to  the  little  use  made  of  fire 
except  for  cooking,  but  chiefly  to  the  comparative  incombusti 
bility  of  woods  employed  in  building.  It  is  not  easy  to  kindle 
the  beams  of  a  dwelling.  Pine  joists  are  prohibited. 

On  returning,  I  passed  in  the  same  street  a  short,  spare,  and 
feeble  old  woman,  creeping  along  the  pavement  with  a  baril 
of  water  on  her  head.  An  iron  collar  grasped  her  shriveled 
throat,  and  from  its  prong  a  chain  ran  up  and  was  secured  to 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  281 

the  handle  of  the  vessel  by  a  padlock — about  as  cruel  a  sight 
as  I  have  seen  yet. 

"Is  it  a  cause  of  wonder  that  so  many  of  your  slaves  eman 
cipate  themselves  by  death  rather  than  endure  life  on  such  con 
ditions  ?"  "  To  treat  them  in  that  way,"  replied  my  friend,  "  or 
to  put  masks  on  them,  is  forbidden,  but  laws  respecting  them 
are  disregarded."  Every  day  or  two  suicides  are  announced  in 
the  police  reports,  yet  it  is  affirmed  that  not  half  are  officially 
noticed.  Those  who  plunge  into  the  Bay  and  float  ashore  come 
under  the  cognizance  of  the  authorities.  Of  such  as  sink  and 
never  rise,  and  all  that  pass  out  to  sea,  or  are  devoured  by 
sharks  before  they  reach  it,  no  account  is  or  can  be  kept,  nor 
yet  of  those  who  destroy  themselves  in  the  secret  places  of  the 
city  or  dark  recesses  of  the  neighboring  forests.  Many  are  ad 
vertised  as  runaways  who  have  reached  the  spirit  land.  Sui 
cides,  it  is  said,  have  greatly  increased  during  the  last  three 
years. 

Yesterday  I  met  in  Ajuda  Street  the  Santa  Eita  collectors 
for  the  Holy  Ghost,  flying  to  and  fro,  and  screaming  "Esmolas 
para  O  Divino."  Instead  of  a  silver  bird,  they  had  its  picture 
in  a  little  tin  frame  for  contributors  to  kiss.  The  two  banners, 
a  yard  square,  were  of  faded  crimson,  with  a  white  dove  in  the 
centre,  or  rather  it  had  once  been  white,  for,  saluted  by  hundreds 
of  perspiring  faces,  it  could  not  long  retain  the  color  of  snow. 
Both  musicians  and  collectors  were  meanly  and  not  over-clean 
ly  dressed.  They  had  a  shabby,  and,  in  truth,  a  rakish  ap 
pearance.  To-day  the  music  of  the  Campo  troop  returning 
from  the  country  drew  us  to  the  windows.  One  of  the  drum 
mers  and  the  player  on  a  triangle  had  each  a  live  fowl — dona 
tions,  probably,  of  rural  devotees.  While  E —  —  dropped  some 
coppers  into  a  dish,  I  relieved  the  bearer  of  the  holy  emblem, 
and  bore  it  to  an  inner  room,  lie  imagining,  of  course,  for  the 
family  to  salute.  It  consisted  of  a  small  piece  of  thin  metal 
struck  up  in  a  die,  and  resembled  the  spread  eagle  on  some  of 
our  soldiers'  caps.  It  was  fastened  in  a  tin  case,  little  larger 
than  a  blacking-box,  with  a  piece  of  glass  in  front,  and  a  han 
dle  at  the  back  for  holding  it  to  the  lips  of  worshipers.  One 
of  the  banners  I  also  took  in.  The  central  part  was  of  the  col 
or  of  snuff,  and  thickened  and  stiffened  with  grease,  apparently 


282  SKETCHES   OF 

the  accumulation  of  years  from  sweating  faces,  black  and  white, 
and  which  time  had  hardened  to  the  consistence  of  wax. 

H was  employed  this  forenoon  in  releasing  from  the 

press-gang  a  slave  who  slipped  out  last  night  in  tamancos. 
Another,  belonging  to  the  same  family,  was  taken  sick,  when 
one  of  his  associates  cupped  him — a  favorite  African  remedy ; 
many  negroes  are  not  less  expert  in  applying  than  in  removing 
disease  by  it.  The  process  and  apparatus  are  of  extreme  an 
tiquity.  The  operator  scratches  the  skin  with  a  flint,  places 
the  wide  end  of  a  sheep's  horn  over  it,  and  sucks  out  the  air. 
Negro  chirurgeons  uniformly  prefer  bleeding  their  patients  in 
sunshine,  insisting  that  the  effect  is  then  most  beneficial. 

8th.  I  have  repeatedly  passed  an  auction  store  at  the  corner 
of  Ourives  and  Ouvidor.  To-day  printed  bills  were  hanging 
by  the  door.  I  took  one  and  stepped  in.  A  long  table  ex 
tended  from  near  the  entrance  to  the  low  box  pulpit  of  the 
salesman.  Behind  it,  a  light  iron  railing  cut  off  a  portion  of 
the  store.  The  place  was  filled  with  new  and  second-hand  fur 
niture,  old  pictures,  Dutch  cheeses,  Yankee  clocks,  kitchen  uten 
sils,  crockery-ware,  old  books,  shoes,  pickles,  etc. — the  very  kind 
of  shop  which  a  young  Athenian  once  stopped  a  plain-looking 
citizen  in  an  alley  to  inquire  after — that  is,  when  Xenophon  and 
Socrates  first  met. 

Yendues  of  these  things  are  held  here  daily,  and  once  or 
twice  a  week  another  variety  of  merchandise  is  offered.  This 
was  the  case  to-day — an  assorted  invoice  of  colored  goods,  ar 
ranged  on  benches  behind  the  railing.  The  catalogue  contain 
ed  eighty-nine  lots,  and  each  lot  had  a  corresponding  number 
pinned  to  it,  that  purchasers,  on  running  over  the  list,  might 
compare  the  articles  with  their  description.  These  goods  were 
living  beings.  Every  lot  was  a  man  or  woman,  a  boy  or  girl. 
There  were  fifty-three  males,  most  of  whom  ranged  between 
eighteen  and  thirty  years  of  age — carpenters,  masons,  smiths, 
and  country  hands.  One  was  a  sailor,  another  a  caulker  and 
boatman.  There  were  two  tailors,  a  coachman,  a  saddler,  a 
sawyer,  a  squarer  of  timber  (one  expert  with  the  adze),  a 
shoemaker,  cooks,  a  coffee-carrier,  and  a  barber  surgeon,  who, 
like  most  of  his  profession,  was  a  musician — "  No.  19, 1  Kapaz, 
Barbeiro,  bom  sangrador  e  musico." 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  283 

Of  females,  the  oldest  was  twenty-six,  and  the  youngest  be 
tween  seven  and  eight — washers,  sewers,  cooks,  two  dress-mak 
ers  "  muito  prendada"  -  -  very  accomplished.  Others  made 
shirts,  dressed  ladies'  hair,  etc.  A  couple  were  wet-nurses,  with 
much  good  milk,  and  each  with  a  colt  or  filly,  thus :  "  No.  61, 
1  Rapariga,  com  muito  bom  leite,  com  cria."  Cria  signifies  the 
young  of  horses,  and  is  applied  to  negro  offspring. 

They  were  of  every  shade,  from  deep  Angola  jet  to  white  or 
nearly  white,  as  one  young  woman  facing  me  appeared.  She 
was  certainly  superior  in  mental  organization  to  some  of  the 
buyers.  The  anguish  with  which  she  watched  the  proceedings, 
and  waited  her  turn  to  be  brought  out,  exposed,  examined,  and 
disposed  of,  was  distressing.  A  little  girl,  I  suppose  her  own, 
stood  by  her  weeping,  with  one  hand  in  her  lap,  obviously 
dreading  to  be  torn  away.  This  child  did  not  cry  out — that  is 
not  allowed — but  tears  chased  each  other  down  her  cheeks,  her 
little  bosom  panted  violently,  and  such  a  look  of  alarm  marked 
her  face  as  she  turned  her  large  eyes  on  the  proceedings,  that 
I  thought  at  one  time  she  would  have  dropped. 

"Purchasers  of  pots  and  pot-lids,"  said  Diogenes,  "  ring  them 
lest  they  should  carry  cracked  ones  home,  but  men  they  buy  on 
sight."  If  such  was  the  practice  of  old,  it  is  not  so  now:  the 
head,  eyes,  mouth,  teeth,  arms,  hands,  trunks,  legs,  feet — every 
limb  and  ligament  without  are  scrutinized,  while,  to  ascertain 
if  aught  within  be  ruptured,  the  breast  and  other  parts  are 
sounded. 

The  auctioneer,  a  tall,  black-whiskered  man  of  thirty-five,  was 
a  master  of  his  profession,  if  one  might  judge  from  his  fluency 
and  fervor.  A  hammer  in  his  right  hand,  the  forefinger  of  his 
left  pointing  to  a  plantation  hand  standing  confused  at  his  side, 
he  pours  out  a  flood  of  words.  The  poor  fellow  had  on  a  can 
vas  shirt,  with  sleeves  ending  at  the  elbows  and  trowsers  of  the 
same,  the  legs  of  which  he  is  told  to  roll  above  his  knees.  A 
bidder  steps  up,  examines  his  lower  limbs,  then  his  mouth, 
breast,  and  other  parts.  He  is  now  told  to  walk  toward  the 
door  and  back,  to  show  his  gait.  As  he  was  returning,  the  ham 
mer  fell,  and  he  was  pushed  back  within  the  railing.  Another, 
who  had  but  four  toes  on  one  foot,  was  quickly  disposed  of. 

The  clerk  next  went  behind  the  rails  and  brought  forward  a 


284  SKETCHES    OF 

woman — a  field-hand.  She  was  stout,  and  seemed  older  than 
reported  in  the  catalogue.  Dressed  as  sparely  and  plainly  as 
the  men,  she  too  was  examined,  and  told  to  walk  to  and  fro. 
When  near  the  door,  a  bidder  interrogated  her,  but  on  what  I 
could  not  comprehend.  His  last  remark  was  translated  plainly 
by  her  raising  her  skirt  to  expose  her  legs.  They  were  much 
swollen.  Two  hundred  and  fifty  milreis  was  the  sum  she 
brought. 

The  sale,  half  over  when  I  entered,  was  adjourned  for  an 
hour.  What  became  of  the  white  woman  and  child  I  did  not 
learn.  One  fact  was  most  palpable — no  more  regard  was  paid 
to  the  feelings  of  the  victims  than  if  they  had  been  so  many 
horses. 

Thus  have  I  seen,  for  the  first  time  in  my  life,  the  bones  and 
muscles  of  a  man,  with  every  thing  appertaining  to  him,  put  up 
for  sale,  and  his  body,  soul,  and  spirit  struck  off  to  the  highest 
bidder — God's  automata  knocked  down  for  less  than  Maelzell's 
wooden  puppets.  They  brought  higher  rates  than  bodies  at 
surgeons'  halls  ;  but,  if  negroes  were  worth  more  dead  than  liv 
ing,  the  supply,  it  is  said,  would  equal  the  demand.  That, 
however,  I  do  not  believe  ;  yet,  from  what  I  have  seen,  I  should 
say  it  were  better — yes,  unspeakably  better — for  many  to  be 
knocked  on  the  head  in  their  youth,  have  their  skins  converted 
into  glue  and  their  bones  into  ivory  blacks  than  endure  through 
life  what  some  endure. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

Winter. — New  Saint. — Lady  do  Parto. — An  English  Monk. — Black  and  white  In 
fants  in  Purgatory. — Auction  at  a  private  Dwelling  :  its  Furniture,  Garden,  La 
res,  Oratorio,  and  Slaves. — Barber's  Basin  and  Shaving-cloth. — Mass  and  Capu 
chins. — Church  of  the  Rosary,  its  Images  and  Ex  Votos. — A  sick  Man. — Old 
Slave. — Uncertain  Origin  of  the  Negro  Saint. — Ramble  through  Nictherohy. 

J^Tay  10.  Winter  is  coming  on  apace.  Ladies  are  occasion 
ally  seen  chilled  and  shivering  as  in  an  ague-fit,  from  the  hu 
midity  of  the  air  and  absence  of  fires.  Rain  has  depressed  the 
thermometer  to  72°.  The  little  Cattete  stream  has  again  swol 
len,  till  barils,  pans,  and  talhas  are  borne  away,  and  dashed  to- 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  285 

gether  in  its  whirling  eddies — a  scene  like  that  from  which  the 
ancient  fabulist  derived  the  story  of  the  iron  and  the  earthen  pot. 

The  new  saint  was  to  make  her  debut  to-day,  but  the  wet 
condition  of  the  streets  has  induced  the  managers  to  postpone  it 
for  .a  week.  When  it  does  take  place,  the  Sugar-loaf,  Corcova- 
do,  Tejuca,  and  Organ  peaks  will  witness  a  piece  of  folly  un- 
equaled  on  the  hemisphere  since  they  raised  their  everlasting- 
heads. 

"  Leilao  extraordinario,  hoje  Domingo,  10  de  Maio,  na  rua 
Xovo  do  Conde,  No.  167,  Catumby."  This  was  a  favorable  op 
portunity  to  look  over  the  interior  of  a  wealthy  native  estab 
lishment.  Passing,  on  my  way,  the  Lady  do  Parto's  church,  a 
red  cloth  hanging  in  the  doorway  intimated  that  she  was  "at 
home."  A  fine-looking  Mozambique,  with  a  row  of  artificial 
pimples  down  his  nose  and  forehead,  and  perpendicular  lines  cut 
in  each  cheek,  was  making  a  leg  and  otherwise  complimenting 
her.  The  only  worshiper  present,  he  turned  his  head,  glanced 
at  me,  and  resumed  his  address.  What  on  earth  he  could  want 
with  her  I  could  not  imagine,  nor  what  she  could  possibly  do 
for  him. 

I  overtook  the  short  and  plump  English  monk, Father  T y. 

Holding  up  the  skirts  of  his  cassock  with  his  left  hand,  his  right 
swung  to  and  fro  quick  as  an  eight-inch  pendulum.  His  skull 
cap,  like  an  inverted  saucer  made  of  sticking-plaster,  covered 
the  shaven  circle  of  his  crown,  and  stuck  so  close  that,  had  he 
been  a  Preto  de  Nacao,  it  might  have  been  taken  for  the  natu 
ral  cuticle.  I  was  about  crossing  the  pavement  to  address  him, 
but  a  lady  was  approaching.  As  she  drew  near,  she  quickened 
her  steps,  snatched  his  hand,  and  in  a  twinkling  her  lips  had 
met  it  and  left  it  with  a  chirp.  It  would  not  do  for  priests  and 
friars  to  wear  gloves  here. 

Near  the  door  of  a  low  venda  (in  Novo  Conde)  was  a  wood 
en  cross,  four  feet  high,  secured  in  the  pavement,  and  to  it  was 
attached  an  alms-box,  which  presented  the  best  piece  of  picture- 
writing  I  have  met  with.  As  the  box  was  for  soliciting  contri 
butions  for  souls,  what  form  of  words  could  so  vividly  portray 
the  torments  of  the  sufferers,  and  show  that  all  races  and 
ages  are  exposed  to  them,  as  an  official  representation  of  two 
infants  in  perdition,  and  one  of  them  a  negro !  There  is  not 


286 


SKETCHES    OF 


a  colored  mother  in  the  neighborhood  mourn 
ing  a  lost  child  but  here  beholds  it  crying  to  her 
for  relief.  What  can  she  withhold  to  mitigate 
its  pains  or  snatch  it  from  them  ?  Nothing  that 
she  has  or  can  procure.  The  box  is  a  sermon 
written  in  characters  possessing  perpetual  Pen 
tecostal  properties.  To  the  men  and  women 
assembled  in  this  city  from  almost  every  nation 
under  heaven,  it  speaks  in  their  own  tongues 
—dark  strangers  from  Congo,  Angola,  Cabinda. 
the  Gold  Coast,  and  remoter  regions  of  Ethio 
pia,  red  aborigines,  fair  children  of  Japhet,  and 
dusky  descendants  of  Shem,  and  to  all  is  equal 
ly  explicit,  if  not  equally  effective. 

Passing  travelers  can  hardly  refuse  a  trifle  to 
innocents  thus  beseeching  them,  with  screeches, 
tears,  and  uplifted  hands,  to  drop  some  vintemp 
in,  and  the  rather  when  so  small  a  sum  as  a  pa- 
taca  has  been  known  to  get  one  out.  Children 
whom  death  has  deprived  of  a  brother,  sister,  or 
a  playmate,  often  thus  dedicate  to  affection  pres 
ents  they  receive.  Indeed,  who  of  the  faith  can  withstand  in 
vitations  to  shorten  the  purgation  of  departed  friends,  or  fail  in 
this  way  to  show  the  sincerity  of  their  regard ;  and  then,  where 
the  finer  feelings  are  not,  self-interest  steps  in  and  induces  many 
to  give,  from  a  consciousness  that  when  their  turn  comes  their 
sufferings  will  be  thereby  lightened. 

The  auction  was  at  the  adjoining  premises.  The  front  half 
of  the  ground  floor  was  paved,  and  served  for  entrance  and 
coach-house.  Dark  stairs  led  to  the  principal  floor.  The  ar 
rangement  of  the  rooms  and  their  finish  reminded  one  of  old 
Dutch  dwellings ;  two  only  were  papered,  the  rest  stenciled 
three  feet  from  the  floor,  and  all  above  whitewashed.  No  car 
pet  concealed  the  dark  flooring-plank  in  room,  passage,  or  stairs. 
The  paraphernalia  of  our  luxurious  parlors  would  be  out  of 
place.  The  furniture  of  the  Cozinha  was  simple,  and  evidently 
allied  to  the  appurtenances  of  Greek  and  Roman  kitchens. 
The  usual  cooking  plate,  with  openings  for  pans,  and  a  place 
beneath  for  charcoal  or  a  few  sticks,  a  dresser  and  shelves  over 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  287 

it,  and  a  marble  slab  for  pastry,  constituted  the  whole.  Not  a 
stool  or  seat  of  any  kind.  The  walls,  for  three  feet  up,  were 
lined  with  tiles,  the  floor  paved ;  the  window-frame,  occupied  by 
iron  scroll-work  in  place  of  glass,  opened  into  a  fine  and  large 
garden.  Half  of  it  was  divided  off  for  kitchen  vegetables,  the 
other  cut  up  into  fancy  plots  and  fountain  basins.  Vases  filled 
with  flowers  stood  on  pedestals  amid  statues  of  the  seasons  and 
of  floral  deities  ;  and  if  gods  or  mortals  got  tired,  sofas  of  stone 
and  shell  work  were  every  where  at  hand.  The  flowers  were 
richer  than  Chloris  ever  wove  in  a  wreath,  but  the  trees,  laden 
with  golden  fruit,  took  my  fancy  most. 

The  plate,  exceeding  two  thousand  ounces,  was  the  richest 
part  of  the  catalogue.  The  auctioneer,  an  elderly  man,  with 
white  and  shaggy  eyebrows,  beard,  and  whiskers,  surpassed  in 
volubility — "hum  milreis,  dous  milreis,  tres  milreis,"  and  slap 
his  ivory  hammer  came  down,  giving  for  a  moment  rest  to  his 
tongue  and  hirsute  chin.  The  whole  affair  was  managed  pre 
cisely  as  with  us,  differing  only  in  language  and  the  absence  of 
females,  who  never  attend. 

The  oratorio  had  an  antique  table  for  an  altar,  and  on  it  the 
lares  that  presided  over  the  house  and  family — Our  Lady,  An 
tonio,  and  Jeronimo — three  coarse  wooden  figures  whose  stat 
ure  was  a  span.  Minds  accustomed  to  worship  through  im 
ages  require  something  before  the  bodily  eye  to  exercise  the 
mental.  Even  those  who,  from  intellectual  culture,  might  be 
supposed  free  from  the  infirmity,  have  their  traveling  apparatus. 
Here  was  one  which  I  took  for  a  clothes-press,  but,  on  opening 
the  door,  an  altar  and  images  were  carved  in  half  relief  against 
the  back.  The  article  is  catalogued  a  "  rico  oratorio  portatile.'" 

But  for  its  adjoining  the  kitchen,  an  angel  might  seek  to  wor 
ship  in  this  room,  opening,  as  it  does,  on  scenes  of  unusual 
natural  grandeur,  as  well  as  on  the  loveliest  of  the  Creator's 
works  that  a  tropical  flower-garden  and  its  winged  visitants  can 
display.  Here  are  incitements  to  devotion  which,  if  contem 
plated  at  all,  must  purify  the  coarsest  souls,  and  throw  torpid 
ones  into  paroxysms  of  adoration. 

While  'admiring  the  grounds,  a  man  came  rushing  down  stairs 
bawling  Joao — Jose — Jose — Joao.  Presently  two  half-naked 
negroes  threw  down  their  hoes.  He  addressed  three  or  four 


288  SKETCHES   OF 

words  to  them  as  they  approached,  and  pushed  both  into  the 
passage,  up  which  he  hurried  them.  "  What  did  he  say  ?"  I 
inquired.  "Come  in  to  be  sold"  was  the  reply.  There  was 
something  in  the  order  and  manner  of  it,  its  suddenness,  and 
the  silent  acquiescence  of  the  poor  fellows  as  they  were  driven 
in,  that  at  the  moment  thrilled  through  me.  In  form  and  spirit 
it  resembled  an  old  sheriff's  address  on  the  morning  of  an  exe 
cution  to  a  prisoner,  "  Come  out  to  be  hanged." 

We  returned  up  stairs.  The  salesman  was  expatiating  on  a 
dinner-set.  Another  bid,  and  down  it  went.  While  applying 
his  glass  to  a  catalogue  for  the  next  article,  it  was  forced  into 
the  crowded  room  close  to  him  :  "1  preto  de  ro$a  de  nome 
Jose7,  de  na9ao  Congo."  Eyeing  the  lot  a  moment,  he  ordered 
it  to  mount  on  a  stool,  and  there,  utterly  abashed,  the  poor  kid 
napped  negro  stands.  Apparently  of  dullish  intellect,  short, 
stout,  and  about  thirty  years  of  age,  a  canvas  shirt  and  pan 
taloons  complete  his  dress.  No  scars  are  visible  on  him,  but 
he  is  shockingly  disfigured  with  hydrocele.  He  is  told  to  pull 
up  the  longer  leg  of  his  trousers,  then  the  other,  next  to  turn 
round,  and,  within  a  minute,  to  get  down  and  follow  his  new 
owner — a  thin,  meagre,  wedge-faced  old  man,  who  bought  him 
for  420  milreis.  Jose,  from  his  age  and  build,  was  deemed  a 
prime  plantation  hand.  The  watery  hernia  did  not  reduce  hit 
value  ten  dollars.  As  a  horse,  when  sold,  is  transferred  to  the 
purchaser  in  the  cheapest  kind  of  halter,  so  Jose  could  hardly 
have  been  turned  over  to  a  new  owner  with  a  poorer  fit-out. 

Lot  124,  "  1  dito  de  nome  Joao,"  was,  with  as  little  cere 
mony  and  loss  of  time,  put  on  the  stand,  told  to  bare  his  legs, 
breasts,  etc.,  turn  this  way  and  that.  He  appeared  more  intel 
ligent  than  Jose,  and  was  described  as  possessing  various  qual 
ities — he  could  "  cook  with  stove  and  furnace" — brought  520 
milreis.  A  Mozambique  next  stepped  up — a  melancholy  man 
of  middle  life.  Little  was  said  of  his  acquirements.  I  under 
stood  he  had  not  been  long  imported.  He  was  struck  off  at 
400  milreis  to  the  buyer  of  Joao — a  speculator. 

The  salesman  next  offered  "  Uma  Cuya  para  mate  com  pe  e 

guarni9ao  de  prata."     The  next  article  drove  us  off — a  paliteiro. 

The  conflicting  deeds  and  creeds  of  men  who  can  reconcile  V 

Here,  in  one  house,  were  Christians  selling,  and  on  the  Lord's 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  28(J 

day,  into  mortal  thraldom,  the  bodies  of  living  men,  and  next 
door  taking  in  subscriptions  to  redeem  the  souls  of  dead  ones ! 
\\tti.  A  smart  young  barber  passes  the  window  daily,  with 
a  fac-simile  of  Mambrino's  helmet  under  his  arm — the  bright 
brass,  wide-rimmed  and  scalloped  basin  being  as  common  here 
as  in  Spain  when  Cervantes  wrote.  While  speaking  of  this, 
singular  enough,  a  present  came  in  from  my  afflicted  friend, 

Dona  F a  ;  a  piece  of  delicate  cambric,  not  larger  than  this 

page.  It  had  a  margin  of  flowers  in  needle-work,  and,  outside 
of  that,  a  border  of  lace.  Ignorant  of  the  use  of  this  tiny  mou- 
choir,  I  turned  to  E a  for  information.  "Ladies,"  she  ob 
served,  "  in  the  United  States  and  England,  present  male  rela 
tives  and  friends  with  wrought  slippers  ;  here  and  in  Portugal 
it  is  an  ancient  custom  to  send  them  embroidered  shaving-cloths. 
The  present  is  to  wipe  your  razor  on." 

12M.  The  bishop,  assisted  by  the  Capuchins,  celebrated  mass, 
on  account  of  the  empress  being  again  in  an  interesting  way. 
More  packages  of  worshiping  machinery  have  come  in  from  It 
aly.  Two  of  the  uncomely  fakirs  attended  yesterday  at  the 
custom-house  to  receive  them. 

H—  -  having,  according  to  appointment,  joined  me  in  De- 
reita  Street,  we  turned  up  an  old  and  narrow  lane  named,  after 
the  Praying  Abacus,  Rua  do  Rozario.  At  the  head  of  it  stands 
the  ancient  metropolitan  temple,  now  a  negro  church,  and  the 
only  one  conceded  to  the  colored  population.  Here  are  genii 
not  met  with  in  other  temples,  and  to  them  our  visit  was  in 
tended. 

At  the  door  were  three  alms-boxes  ;  on  one  the  African's  own 
patron,  curly-headed  Benedicto,  was  painted ;  on  the  second, 
Luzia,  with  a  pair  of  eye-balls  in  her  hand,  appealed  to  us; 
and  on  the  third,  pointing  to  the  slit  in  the  cover,  stood  the 
Lady  da  Cabe9a,  holding  a  human  head  suspended  by  a  twine 
or  lock  of  hair,  reminding  one  of  Judith  bearing  off  that  of 
Holofernes.  A  timid  stranger,  ignorant  of  the  character  of  these 
female  beggars,  might  be  led  to  imagine  one  a  tigress  that  tore 
out  the  eyes  of  non-contributors,  and  the  other  revenging  her 
self  by  spinning  round  the  decapitated  heads  of  those  who  gave 
her  nothing. 

Entering,  we  found  the  place  a  picture  of  desolation  ;  nothing 

T 


290  SKETCHES   OF 

visible  but  bare  walls,  ceilings,  and  decayed  floors.  The  prin 
cipal  image,  and  those  of  the  six  side  shrines  we  had  come  to 
see,  had  vanished.  The  sacristan  appeared,  and  led  us  into  the 
vestry,  a  large  room,  on  one  side  of  which  an  altar  and  apparatus 
were  fitted  up.  Every  thing  looked  old,  mean,  and  worn  out, 
for  want  of  soap  and  paint.  Being  asked  where  the  saints  were, 
he  said  four  were  put  away  in  the  garret  till  the  church  is  re- 
edified,  and  the  other  three  are  there,  pointing  to  the  altar.  We 
drew  near,  and  contemplated  the  Lady  of  the  Rosary,  or  "Do  Ter- 
co,"  as  she  is  sometimes  named,  of  the  natural  size.  On  one 
palm  a  naked  infant  sits,  and  from  the  other  a  string  of  beads 
— her  emblem — hangs.  Near  her  stands  the  popular  goddess 
da  Concei9ao,  five  and  a  half  feet  high.  Her  child  is  in  a  frock 
and  sash,  which  once  were  white  and  red,  but  now  are  neither. 
From  her  arm  is  suspended  by  a  ribbon  a  fresh  wax  votive 
head — a  female's,  and  differing  from  any  yet  seen.  Its  ear-lap 
pets  remind  one  of  an  Egyptian  head-dress.  In  front  of  these 
ladies  is  Benedict  himself,  black  as  jet,  and  rather  low  in  stature, 
the  baby  in  his  arms  being  any  thing  but  a  white  one. 

Here  are  by  far  the  best-shaped  wax  votos  to  be  found  in 
Rio.  Of  seventeen  heads,  not  one  had  blunted  or  inexpressive 
features.  Five  had  been  taken  from  a  bust  of  Demosthenes ; 
part  of  the  females  were  also  from  classic  models ;  and  two, 
judging  from  their  bull  necks,  were  Neros  or  gladiators.  There 
were  three  breasts,  several  abdomens,  and  a  couple  of  hands. 
Inquiring  why  there  were  no  legs,  arms,  eyes,  and  feet,  our  in 
formant  said  there  had  been  many,  but  they  fell  and  were 
crushed. 

While  making  memoranda  in  front  of  the  altar,  I  was  startled 
by  a  groan  at  my  elbow.  I  turned,  and  lo !  a  white  man,  of 
forty-five  or  fifty,  on  his  knees,  almost  in  contact  with  me.  He 
had  come  in  "on  woolen  feet."  One  arm  was  bandaged  and 
in  a  sling.  He  was  cadaverous  and  evidently  very  sick.  His 
languid  eyes  were  fastened  on  one  of  the  images,  to  which  he 
began  to  pour  out  his  sorrows  in  a  suppressed  voice.  I  with 
drew,  and,  joining  H ,  pointed  to  the  supplicant.  "Yes," 

said  H ,  with  a  shrug,  "he  told  me  yesterday  he  was  com 
ing  to  see  if  Nossa  Senhora  do  Rozario  would  stop  the  running 
sore  in  his  arm."  "But  why  come  to  a  black  church?"  I  asked. 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL. 


291 


"  Because  during  the  last  eighteen  months  he  has  been  to  every 
white  one,  without  being  able  to  interest  a  saint  in  his  behalf. 
The  lady  he  is  now  consulting  has  her  shrine  in  this  place,  and 
saints,  like  physicians,  must  be  called  on  at  their  residences. 
Many  whites  come  here  for  assistance,  and  some  make  vows 
even  to  that  blackamoor." 

Our  presence  and  talking,  and  the  noise  made  by  two  romp 
ing  colored  boys,  disturbed  not  in  the  least  the  poor  man's  de 
votions.  In  seven  or  eight  minutes  he  crossed  himself,  rose, 
bowed  to  the  lady,  dipped  a  finger  in  the  lustral  basin,  and 

went  noiselessly  away,  giving  H a  sign  of  recognition  a? 

he  passed. 

We  were  about  to  follow,  when  an  extremely  old  and  infirm 
female  came  tottering  in,  barefooted,  with  the  aid  of  a  staff.  She 


292  SKETCHES   OF 

was  nearly  blind,  had  lost  her  teeth,  and  was  the  oldest  slave 
I  ever  saw.  She  stood  a  while  to  disengage  from  her  skirts  a 
rosary  composed  of  beans.  A  few  coppers  were  put  into  her 
hands ;  she  rolled  her  yellow  eyeballs,  gasped  and  gurgled  her 
thanks,  approached  the  altar,  and  knelt  close  to  the  patron  and 
kinsman  of  her  race.  We  left  her  communing  with  him,  prob 
ably  the  only  consolation  left  her. 

The  cemetery  of  this  church  is  large.  The  niches  for  the 
dead  are  four  deep,  and  all  tenanted  except  two. 

"  Black  Benedict"  is  generally  considered  an  imaginary  saint, 
got  up  by  the  Portuguese  with  the  view  of  more  effectually 
keeping  slaves  in  subjection.  I  have  interrogated  several  priests 
on  the  subject,  including  Father  Tilbury,  but  not  one  could  say 
who  he  was,  where  he  dwelt,  nor  how  and  when  he  became  can 
onized. 

The  portrait  of  him  is  a  fac-simile  of  his  "  blessed  picture*' 
given  out  to  his  devotees,  and  worn  in  their  bosoms.  As  a 
specimen  of  art,  it  is  a  fair  sample  of  those  of  other  saints. 

16^A.  A  fruit-woman  who  brought  in  vegetables  for  dinner  had 
bunches  of  "witch-expelling  rue"  for  sale. 

I  went  over  to  Nictherohy.  When  on  the  Bay,  the  land  be 
fore  us  appeared  in  gigantic  heaps  crowded  together  as  if  it  had 
once  been  overrun  with  monster  moles  or  other  hill-builders. 
As  we  drew  nearer,  some  which  from  the  Rio  side  appeared  in 
land,  were  in  advance,  as  if  they  had  waded  out  to  meet  us. 
Low  white  houses  skirt  the  Bay,  and  are  rural  rather  than  city 
dwellings.  Like  country  seats,  they  stand  apart,  have  gardens 
in  front,  and  garden  walls  of  brick  and  stone,  plastered  and 
perforated  with  fancy  apertures.  Some  are  composed  of  panels 


x"Z~ 


filled  with  inverted  tiles  piled  on  each  other,  their  semicircular 
onds,  and  cusped  openings  left  by  them,  producing  an  agreeable 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  293 

net-like  appearance.  Some  are  arranged  to  produce  circles.  As 
they  cost  little  and  endure  for  centuries,  I  do  not  see  why  they 
might  not  be  introduced  in  fences  with  us.  In  form  and  di 
mensions  they  might  be  varied  to  meet  every  exigence.  Be 
tween  the  water  and  these  walls  Rua  da  Praya  extends  —  an 
unpaved  avenue,  bordered  next  the  Bay  with  mango  and  other 
trees,  beneath  the  shade  of  which,  or  even  on  the  white,  sandy 
beach,  a  glorious  promenade  might  be  laid  out. 

I  turned  to  the  left  on  landing,  and  strolled  along  the  beach 
till  a  wall  of  rocks  met  the  roaring  surf.  Cactus  plants,  com 
mon  as  thistles  and  docks  with  us,  spring  out  of  the  crevices ; 
a  row  of  palms  varied  the  scene,  and  pitos  here  and  there  rear 
ed  their  graceful  boles.  The  pito  is  a  species  of  aloe.  Its 
light,  spongy  wood  is  the  Pao  do  fogo — tinder-wood— of  the 
natives. 

Retracing  my  steps,  I  walked  in  the  opposite  direction,  where 
things  were  more  lively.  Stores  occurred,  a  small  market-place, 
and,  farther  on,  a  kind  of  ship-yard  for  repairing  small  craft. 
Ferry  faluas  were  coming  in,  plowing  a  path  through  the  sand 
till  a  plank  answered  as  a  bridge  for  their  passengers.  These 
vessels  are  to  Rio  and  Nictherohy  what  periaguas  were  thirty 
years  ago  to  New  York  and  Jersey  City.  Hundreds  prefer  cross 
ing  in  them  than  in  steamers  since  the  explosion  of  a  boiler  a 
few  years  ago,  when  a  great  number  of  lives  were  lost. 

A  sign-board  here  recalled  one  of  Le  Sage's  best  characters : 

"B ,  Sangrador,  Barbeiro,  Dentista;  vendemse  e  aplicaose 

bichas  ;"  that  is,  bleeder,  barber,  dentist ;  sells  and  applies  leech 
es.  Piles  of  fire-wood  were  for  sale ;  the  bundles  two  feet  long, 
and  eacli  containing  eight  or  ten  sticks,  whose  section  scarcely 
exceeded  a  square  inch. 

Most  of  the  streets  are  at  right  angles  to  the  beach.  In  few 
are  the  houses  continuous.  A  splendid  park  has  just  been  laid 
out,  inclosing  the  old  church  dedicated  to  the  patron  of  the  city, 
San  Joao.  The  population  borders  on  three  thousand.  Rua 
da  Imperatriz  is  the  last  one  toward  San  Domingo,  and  has  but 
one  side  built  on.  A  large  house,  with  wide  door  and  two  open 
flights  of  stairs,  I  took  for  the  chamber  of  the  Provincial  Assem 
bly,  and  passed  up  to  a  low  gallery.  No  one  was  present,  and, 
being  fatigued,  I  took  a  seat.  It  was  the  theatre,  as  the  drop- 


294  SKETCHES    OF 

curtain  and  side-scenes  testified.  After  a  while  there  arose  a 
burst  of  singing,  then  a  measured  dialogue,  next  came  forth  an 
exclamation  as  of  rage,  and  anon  a  stamp  followed  by  a  shriek. 
The  players  were  rehearsing. 

I  walked  down  the  beach  to  San  Domingo,  passing  a  dog 
four  fifths  buried  in  the  sand  by  the  action  of  the  surf.  The 
next  tide  will  wholly  cover  it,  and  there  it  may  possibly  remain, 
and  furnish  a  fossil  relic  to  geologists  of  the  remote  future. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Inauguration  of  a  new  Saint :  how  the  alleged  Bones  were  procured. — Buried  in 
a  waxen  Figure. — The  Bishop's  Letter. — The  Affair  generally  condemned. — 
Bedini  and  Miranda. — The  Emperor  declines  joining  the  Procession.  —  The 
Pomp. — The  "  Area"  and  Saint  within. — Official  Account. — Newspaper  Puff. — 
A  Visit  to  Priscilliana. — Miranda's  Circular. — A  French  Tribunal  on  Religious 
Impositions. 

May  17.  The  imported  saint  is  to  be  added  to-day  to  the 
Brazilian  calendar,  and  her  bones  to  the  Church's  treasure.  Had 
I  been  three  centuries  in  the  country  I  could  not  have  witnessed 
such  an  act,  since  nothing  of  the  kind  has  heretofore  occurred 
on  this  half  of  the  globe.  Not  a  shrine  in  North  or  South 
America  is  enriched  with  so  much  as  a  sacred  leg,  arm,  or  foot 
brought  from  abroad.  The  introduction  of  a  new  saint  into  the 
New  World,  in  the  middle  of  the  nineteenth  century,  is  there 
fore  a  fact  of  some  significance  in  Church  history.  I  shall  give 
the  particulars  a  little  in  detail,  and  quote  official  documents. 

Let  it  be  premised,  then,  that  the  spruce  vicar  of  St.  Anne's 
parish,  a  man  of  enterprise,  versatility  of  genius,  and  address, 
took  a  trip  to  Europe,  and  so  won  on  the  late  Pope,  that  his 
holiness  conferred  on  him  the  titular  dignity  of  "  Monsenhor," 
and  gave  him  access  to  the  Catacombs.  Whether  his  great  feat 
was  conceived  before  he  left  home  is  uncertain;  the  general 
opinion  is  that  it  flashed  on  him  when  abroad.  Be  this  as  it 
may,  the  idea  of  procuring  the  bones  of  a  saint,  having  them  offi 
cially  verified,  duly  prepared,  and  set  up  in  his  own  church,  was 
a  brilliant  one,  since,  if  carried  out,  he  would  have  a  shrine  unique 
in  Brazil.  Creditable  to  his  sagacity  and  taste,  instead  of  rum 
maging  for  a  modern  or  medieval  monk,  he  sought  for  an  an- 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  295 

cient  martyr ;  and  as  the  sex  in  his  country  is  distinguished  by 
the  title  of  "  devout,"  he  preferred  a  heroine  to  a  hero.  Of  in 
nocents  butchered  in  early  persecutions,  Priscilliana  was  one, 
and  her  alleged  bones  were  found  and  given  to  him. 

The  world  is  not  so  coarse  and  uncouth  as  it  used  to  be.  Or 
nate  arts  are  acting  the  part  of  smooth  files  in  reducing  asperi 
ties  left  by  old  hatchets  and  rasps.  The  people  of  Rio  are  at 
tached  to  the  refinements  of  modern  life,  hence  ghastly  remains 
of  mortality  are  not  so  attractive  to  them  as  to  their  ancestors 
and  ours  in  less  polished  times.  Relics,  to  be  revered,  must  not 
be  repulsive.  Miranda,  therefore,  employed  an  artist  in  Rome 
to  bury  them  in  a  waxen  figure  of  a  beautiful  girl,  and  another 
to  furnish  her  with  appropriate  costume ;  a  third,  also,  to  make 
an  "  area,"  or  chest,  in  which  he  brought  her  over,  and  in  which 
she  is,  and  is  to  remain. 

He  arrived  in  January  or  February.  On  the  30th  of  March 
the  "  Jomal"  contained  a  notice  of  the  saint,  furnished,  as  gen 
erally  understood,  by  him.  It  states  that  she  was  the  daughter 
of  Priscillia,  who  devoted  herself  and  child  to  the  Church — suc 
coring  the  persecuted  members,  visiting  those  in  prison,  collect 
ing  relics  of  the  martyrs,  etc.  Priscilliana,  when  sixteen,  was 
arrested,  confessed  the  religion  of  the  cross,  was  tortured, 
wounded  in  the  neck  by  a  sword,  and  eventually  put  to  death. 
She  was  buried  in  the  Catacombs,  and  providentially  found  by 
his  eminence  the  Cardinal  Patricio,  vicar-general  of  Rome,  and, 
by  the  special  grace  of  his  holiness,  given  to  Dr.  M.  J.  de  Mi 
randa  Rego.  Near  the  body  was  a  vase,  containing  her  blood 
mixed  with  sand,  which  was  also  given  him. 

It  states  farther,  that  the  bones  have  been  united  and  cover 
ed  with  wax,  to  represent  the  holy  maid  as  she  appeared  before 
her  death ;  and  farther,  that  the  crown  of  her  head  has  been  left 
uncovered,  to  show  the  cranium  of  the  virgin ;  that  the  solemn 
exposure  and  translation  to  the  church  of  St.  Anne  of  these  pre 
cious  monuments  of  religion,  which  the  city  of  St.  Sebastian  has 
the  good  fortune  to  possess,  will  take  place  as  soon  as  their  im 
perial  majesties  arrive,  and  in  the  form  and  manner  prescribed 
by  his  reverend  excellency  the  bishop. 

On  the  same  day  there  will  be  installed  a  new  brotherhood 
of  St.  Priscilliana.  Their  duties  will  be  to  take  charge  of  the 


296  SKETCHES    OF 

place  where  the  holy  relics  will  be  deposited,  assist  in  the  cele 
bration  of  a  mass  on  the  day  of  her  feast,  and  to  award  to  poor 
maids,  on  their  marriage,  six  hundred  milreis,  to  the  honor  and 
glory  of  the  said  virgin  martyr.  (See  Appendix  B.) 

On  the  14th  of  April  the  bishop's  Pastoral  Letter  on  the  sub 
ject  came  out.  It  is  characteristic  ;  says  much  about  Chrysos- 
tom,  early  piety,  and  general  virtue,  but  little  about  the  bones, 
how  discovered,  how  authenticated,  and  not  a  word  about  the 
blood,  or  how  it  was  obtained  and  verified.  (See  Appendix  C.) 

Before  proceeding,  it  may  as  well  be  stated  here  that  the  af 
fair  is  condemned  by  a  large  portion  of  the  people.  I  have  not 
met  with  an  individual  who  does  not  shrug  up  his  shoulders 
and  pull  down  the  corners  of  his  mouth  at  the  mention  of  it. 
The  idea  has  been  scouted  by  the  better  classes  of  the  govern 
ment  endorsing  it,  nor  are  the  clergy  of  one  mind.  Many  bit 
terly  but  privately  oppose  it.  My  old  friend  the  vicar  has 
been  invited  to  assist  in  the  translation.  He  declines.  The 
feeling  against  it  is  strengthened  by  the  reputed  character  of 
the  projector.  Pious  ladies  have  said  in  my  presence  that  the 
bones  of  the  saint  had  better  have  been  left  where  they  were 
than  that  he  should  have  any  thing  to  do  with  them.  Others 
doubt  their  genuineness;  to  which  it  is  replied,  "  If  they  are  the 
true  ones,  they  will  work  miracles." 

In  the  face  of  this  opposition,  the  managers,  with  the  nuncio 
at  their  head,  have  not  been  inactive.  Invitations  to  the  nu 
merous  brotherhoods  occupy  the  papers.  Albs  are  offered  to 
poor  members.  There  was  a  talk  of  having  "  eleven  thousand 
virgins"  in  the  pomp,  or  as  near  that  number  as  possible,  but 
too  many  parents  refused  to  send  their  daughters.  It  was  also 
in  contemplation  to  issue  a  general  invitation  to  the  ladies  of 
the  city,  and  that  idea  was  abandoned,  so  many  viewing  the  af 
fair  with  cold  suspicion.  The  schools  have  been  applied  to. 
Miranda  begs  the  "  Imperial  Society  of  the  Lovers  of  Instruc 
tion"  to  permit  their  pupils  to  walk  in  the  procession,  and  offers 
to  supply  twenty  with  appropriate  attire  at  his  own  cost. 

On  the  8th  of  the  present  month  the  "  Jornal"  published  this 
official  notice:  "Procession  of  Saint  Priscilliana. — On  Sun 
day,  10th  instant,  at  four  in  the  afternoon,  the  procession  of  the 
holy  relics  of  the  virgin  martyr  St.  Priscilliana  will  start  from 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  297 

the  church  of  St.  Francisco  da  Prainha,  passing  through  the 
streets  of  Prainha,  Imperatriz,  and  Largo  Joaquim,  to  the  church 
of  St.  Anne.  Their  reverend  excellencies,  the  bishops  who  are 
in  Rio,  will  bear  the  area  at  the  commencement.  As  soon  as 
the  relics  of  the  holy  virgin  are  placed  on  the  altar,  a  solemn 
Te  Deum  will  be  chanted,  and  a  sermon  will  be  preached  by 
the  Reverend  Monsenhor  Doctor  Manoel  Joaquim  de  Miranda 
Rego.  Their  imperial  majesties  will  honor  this  religious  so 
lemnity  with  their  presence" 

The  announcement,  as  may  readily  be  supposed,  moved  scores 
of  native  breasts  with  deep  chagrin.  Not  till  now  did  they  be 
lieve  it  possible  that  the  emperor  could  so  far  "  disgrace  him 
self  and  the  country."  But,  while  some  glow  with  indignation, 
others  think  it  his  duty  to  attend,  irrespective  of  the  genuine 
ness  or  spuriousness  of  the  relics  ;  that  neither  he  nor  the  Leg 
islature  can  interfere,  as  both  have  sworn  to  support  the  Church, 
and  she  is  sole  judge  of  her  own  matters.  Such,  in  fact,  is  the 
case.  The  Constitution  binds  government  and  people  to  the 
papal  chair ;  accordingly,  the  Church  has  put  her  crest  or  ci 
pher  on  every  public  establishment ;  it  surmounts  the  crown, 
and  is  stamped  on  every  coin.  To  oppose  her  is  treason,  liter 
ally.  Editors  dare  not  come  out  against  the  imposition,  how 
ever  convinced  they  may  be  that  it  is  one.  It  is  rumored  that 
the  late  bishop  would  never  have  given  it  his  sanction,  and  that 
the  scruples  of  the  present  one  have  been  with  difficulty  over 
come  by  Bedini. 

To 'allay  the  feeling  elicited  by  the  notice  of  the  8th,  another 
was  issued  on  the  9th,  stating  that  the  emperor  will  not  join 
the  procession,  but  will  witness  it  from  a  window  in  the  War 
Department,  a  building  close  to  St.  Anne's  church.  This,  it 
was  rumored,  was  a  damper  to  the  nuncio  and  his  associates. 

As  we  have  already  seen,  the  long-expected  10th  of  May 
came  at  last,  and  disappointment  with  it,  but  to-day  all  looks 
favorable.  The  air  is  cool  and  bracing,  and  the  heavens  are 
neither  in  sackcloth  nor  tears.  The  pomp  is  to  move  at  4  P.M. 
Determined  to  witness  the  apotheosis,  I  took  a  turn  after  din 
ner  through  the  Campo  to  Rua  da  Prainha,  the  Water  Street  or 
Wapping  of  Rio.  The  intervening  avenues  had  been  swept 
and  strewed  with  beach-sand  and  leaves.  About  one  third  of 


298  SKETCHES   OF 

the  stores  and  dwellings  were  in  gala  dress.  Strange-looking 
ensigns,  apparently  priests'  vestments,  with  crosses  wrought  on 
them,  and  what  looked  like  silk  bed-quilts  with  lace  borders, 
were  hung  out  of  second-story  windows,  while  national  and  sa 
cerdotal  banners  waved  from  lines  stretched  across  the  streets. 
The  Prainha  church  stands  amid  timber  and  boat-builders' 
yards,  ship-chandlers  and  blacksmiths'  shops,  vendas  and  slop- 
stores,  all  set  off  with  strips  of  colored  calico.  Built  on  a  pre 
cipitous  rock,  the  pathway  up  rises  twenty  feet  in  almost  as 
many  paces  on  the  bare,  unbroken  granite.  It  will  be  a  tick 
lish  business  for  the  nuncio  and  other  reverend  dignitaries  to 
get  the  saint  and  themselves  down  safely.  One  false  step,  and 
the  "  area"  will  descend  of  its  own  accord.  While  climbing 
with  caution  the  smooth  surface,  a  negro  lad  slipped  above  and 
rolled  some  distance  past  me,  and  but  for  a  low  wall  that  serves 
as  a  balustrade,  he  had  been  whirled  into  the  street  and  killed. 

The  door,  with  crimson  strips  tacked  to  its  posts  and  lintel, 
was  closed,  and  I  passed  up  an  alley  to  the  vestry,  where,  amid 
a  busy  crowd  of  officers  arranging  bouquets,  I  observed  two  lots 
of  old  votive  wax-work.  On  the  left  of  the  door  there  hung  a 
foot,  a  head,  a  female's  diseased  breast,  and  parts  of  members  I 
could  not  make  out.  On  the  opposite  wall,  two  distorted  hands, 
a  leg,  and  part  of  a  thigh  were  pendent  from  a  single  nail. 

It  was  now  past  four.  The  street  by  the  church  was  jam 
med,  but  I  procured  a  good  stand  at  the  door  of  a  venda,  four 
feet  above  the  pavement,  that  commanded  a  full  view  of  all  that 
passed.  For  an  hour  and  a  half  official  personages  and  broth 
erhoods  kept  arriving  and  marshaling  themselves  in  the  ranks. 
Such  a  numerous  turn-out  of  the  latter  I  have  not  seen.  All  are 
bare-headed,  and  in  albs  and  gowns  so  varied  as  to  distinguish 
every  company  —  black,  with  white  cords ;  blue,  with  white 
sleeves ;  black,  with  white  capes ;  slate-colored  gowns,  with 
cream-colored  sleeves  [these  last  were  all  colored  men].  Here 
are  some  in  white  albs  and  light  blue  tippets  ;  yonder,  in  orange 
and  white ;  some  in  green,  and  some  in  cream-color  wholly. 

Every  company  has  in  front  a  crimson  triangular  bag  or  ban 
ner,  between  two  imposing  bouquets,  on  fancy  ten-feet  staves, 
and  every  brother  carries  a  five-foot  candle,  as  yet  unlit.  It  was 
now  near  six,  and  I  began  to  tire,  and  to  wonder  how  reverend 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  299 

managers  can  tell  such  fibs,  like  profane  proprietors  of  public 
spectacles. 

At  a  signal  the  soldiers  ranged  themselves  along  the  apologies 
for  side-walks,  compelling  spectators  to  get  out  of  the  way,  or 
fall  in  behind  where  they  could.  The  hero  in  front  of  and  in 
contact  with  me  (so  straitened  the  place)  was  a  black,  and 
his  right-hand  brother  a  white.  They  talked,  joked,  and 
laughed  together  as  freely  as  if  of  one  color.  A  dozen  torches 
now  descend  from  the  church,  followed  by  the  "  area."  Off  go 
spectators'  hats !  The  military,  having  slung  theirs  to  their 
belts,  present  arms  to  the  saint  now  resting  in  the  street,  and 
fire  a  feu  de  joie !  A  second !  A  third !  My  colored  neigh 
bor,  the  carbinier,  amused  me  greatly.  He  wished  to  save  his 
ammunition.  Without  dropping  a  grain  in  barrel  or  pan,  three 
times  has  he  gone  furiously  through  the  manual  of  priming, 
loading,  ramming  hard  the  wadding,  pulling  the  trigger,  and 
rubbing  his  hand  over  his  perspiring  forehead  at  the  end  of  ev 
ery  shot ;  so  that  if  the  officer's  eye  chanced  this  way,  he  will 
be  at  no  loss  whom  to  promote. 

The  vanguard  of  brothers  is  now  out  of  sight,  so  far  does  the 
procession  extend.  The  company  now  passing  us  is  followed 
by  two  hundred  girls,  dressed  in  white  to  their  very  shoes. 
They  wear  low-skirted  and  long-sleeved  frocks,  with  gauze  veils 
hanging  behind,  with  a  portion  secured  on  the  head  in  manner 
of  a  hood  by  circlets  of  white  roses.  They  carry  banners, 
censers,  incense-boxes  of  an  antique  pattern,  bouquets,  and 
branches  of  palms.  Few  appear  over  ten  years  of  age.  They 
are  the  most  interesting  feature  in  the  spectacle. 

Next  come  older  innocents  in  more  variegated  garbs.  1.  The 
friars  of  the  three  monasteries  of  Anthony,  Benedict,  and  the 
Carmo.  Their  newly-shaven  crowns,  and  the  diversity  in  size 
and  color  of  their  tonsures,  irresistibly  attract  a  stranger's  eyes. 
While  the  sacred  spot  is  white  and  glistening  in  some,  it  is  of 
a  leaden  gray,  and  then  of  a  bluish  tint  in  others.  The  back 
of  every  head,  beneath  a  line  drawn  from  the  tip  of  one  ear  to 
the  other,  is  shorn  .and  shaven  smooth  as  their  cheeks.  The 
young  monks  seem  to  pride  themselves  on  showing  as  full  and 
fair  a  surface  there  as  in  front.  I  never  saw  human  crania  so 
strangely  treated  with  lathers,  razors,  tweezers,  and  depilato- 


300  SKETCHES    OF 


ries.  2.  Hosts  of  priests  in  new  skull-caps,  in  crimson,  black, 
and  other  colored  gowns  and  tippets.  3.  The  Capuchins,  their 
heads  farther  out  of  their  cowls  than  ever ;  their  coarse  garb 
and  squalor  contrasting  well  with  the  fat  and  delicately-trimmed 
ranks  whose  rear  they  bring  up.  The  sanguine,  hirsute  one 
should  have  staid  away.  His  red  neck  looks  raw — a  sight  re 
minding  one  of  any  thing  but  the  beauty  of  holiness. 

They  were  succeeded  by  the  ARCA  or  chest,  under  a  canopy 
held  up  by  silver  staves,  three  on  each  side.'  Bedini  carries  one 
of  the  foremost ;  that  abreast  of  it  was  designed  for  the  emperor. 

The  area  is  five  feet  long,  two  deep,  and  eighteen  inches  wide. 
[I  subsequently  measured  and  sketched  it.]  The  front  and 
both  ends  are  of  glass. 


The  figure  within  is  that  of  a  girl  of  twelve  years  reposing  on 
a  light  blue  silk  mattress,  her  head  slightly  elevated  by  two 
fringed  pillows,  and  turned  to  the  spectators.  The  coronal  re 
gion  is  left  bare.  The  halo  is  a  ring  of  wire,  the  ends  buried 
in  the  cranium.  Her  black  tresses  are  gracefully  gathered  on 
one  shoulder,  partly  covering  a  gash  in  her  neck,  where  a  streak 
and  a  few  drops  of  blood  are  portrayed.  The  eyelids  have  a 
bluish  tint,  said  to  have  been  caused  by  attempts  to  destroy  her 
sight.  She  wears  a  white  silk  tunic  with  pink  sleeves.  Skirts 
of  the  same  are  continued  below  the  laced  border  of  the  tunic. 
On  her  feet  are  sandals  of  yellow  leather.  Her  left  hand  grasps 
a  green  parrot's  wing — a  fan ;  the  other,  half  open,  with  the 
palm  upward,  rests  by  her  side.  A  scarlet  scarf  heightens  the 
effect,  and,  as  I  heard  a  lady  say,  "  makes  her  look  very  pret 
ty."  The  small  vase,  said  to  contain  a  portion  of  her  blood. 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  301 

and  of  the  sand  that  mingled  with  it  at  her  martyrdom,  is  at 
her  feet. 

The  Bishop  of  Rio,  with  a  group  of  attendants,  followed  the 
saint,  his  train,  attached  to  his  neck  and  shoulders,  being  held 
up  by  three  men  some  distance  in  his  rear.  Music  came  next, 
then  more  troops,  and  finally  the  national  banner.  The  whole 
being  now  in  motion,  bombs  were  exploded,  ordnance  fired, 
squibs  and  rockets  kept  flying  overhead,  and  the  bands  playing 
a  swelling  air.  St.  Anne's  Church,  in  front,  was  emblazoned 
with  a  cross  of  light,  the  bells  chimed  a  welcome,  and  when  the 
area  reached  the  door,  scores  of  projectiles  hurried  off  to  heaven 
to  bear  the  tidings  of  the  saint's  arrival.  The  emperor  and  em 
press  passed  in  from  the  adjoining  building  to  receive  her. 

What  then  took  place  is  recorded  in  subjoined  articles  from 
the  daily  papers,  with  some  particulars  that  escaped  me. 

"Santa  Priscilliana,  Virgem  Martyr. — The  most  holy  fa 
ther,  Gregory  XVI.,  has  been  pleased  to  distinguish  this  bishop 
ric  with  the  precious  relic  of  St.  Priscilliana,  which  was  yester 
day  solemnly  deposited  in  the  Church  of  St.  Anne.  The  most 
excellent  and  most  reverend  senhor,  bishop,  count,  and  grand 
chaplain,  published  a  pastoral  letter  establishing  the  ceremonies 
to  be  observed  in  translating  the  relic,  conformably  to  the  in 
structions  of  St.  Charles  Borromea,  the  rubric  of  the  Roman 
ritual,  and  precepts  of  the  Liturgy.  His  most  reverend  excel 
lency  recapitulates  the  life  of  the  saint  thus :  [Here  follows 
the  eighth  paragraph  of  the  pastoral — Appendix  C]. 

"  At  3  P.M.  yesterday,  in  the  Chapel  of  St.  Francis  da  Prain- 
ha,  in  presence  of  his  most  reverend  excellency,  of  the  most  ex 
cellent  Internuncio,  the  most  reverend  Bishop  of  Chrisopolis, 
Monsenhor  the  Vicar-general,  the  most  illustrious  and  reverend 
chapter,  the  reverend  canon  notary,  the  vicar  and  clergy  of  St. 
Anne,  the  holy  relic  was  verified  and  authenticated,  the  box 
containing  it  was  opened,  and  the  pontifical  brief  read.  Min 
utes  of  the  examination  were  made,  and  signed  by  all  present. 

"  After  this  ceremony  the  relic  was  incensed  and  exposed  to 
the  veneration  of  the  clergy  and  others  present.  Then  followed 
the  procession,  in  which  his  most  reverend  excellency  had  in 
vited  all  the  brotherhoods  and  third  orders,  the  reverend  and 


302  SKETCHES   OF 

secular  of  the  city,  the  most  illustrious  and  reverend  Cabido,  to 
join.  They  walked  in  the  same  order  as  in  the  processions  of 
the  body  of  God  and  St.  Sebastian.  Between  the  ranks  formed 
by  the  third  order  of  Our  Lady  of  Carmo  were  two  hundred 
and  fifty  young  girls,  dressed  in  virginal  vestments,  with  chap- 
lets  of  white  flowers,  holding  in  their  left  hands  bouquets  of 
natural  flowers,  and  in  the  right  small  wax  candles.  From 
space  to  space  they  chanted  a  hymn,  which  charmed  the  hearts 
of  spectators  in  whom  the  light  of  the  Catholic  religion  is  not 
obscured  by  philosophic  luminaries  of  the  age.  Toward  the 
close  came  the  box  containing  the  body  of  the  holy  virgin  be 
neath  a  canopy,  and  incensed  by  two  acolytes.  In  coming  out 
of  the  chapel,  and  for  some  distance  from  it,  the  body  was  borne 
by  his  most  reverend  excellency,  the  most  excellent  Senhor 
Bedini,  the  Senhor  Bishop  of  Chrisopolis,  and  the  Monsenhor 
Vicar-general.  Afterward  the  illustrious  chapter  took  up  the 
holy  burden,  and  were  relieved  at  intervals  by  other  priests. 

"  The  procession  went  through  Kua  do  Imperatriz,  Largo  de 
St.  Joaquim,  and  thence  to  the  Church  of  Sta.  Anna.  In  the 
passage  were  chanted  the  Litanies  of  the  Saints,  with  invocations 
of  St.  Priscilliana,  the  Canticles,  Benedictus,  Magnificat,  etc. 
Entering  the  church  at  half  past  ^  P.M.,  the  area  was  incensed 
and  placed  on  the  high  altar.  A  Te  Deum  was  chanted,  then 
an  antiphony,  verses  and  prayers  from  the  '  Commune  das  Vir- 
gems,'  and  a  sermon  by  the  vicar. 

"  The  relic  was  then  open  to  public  veneration.  His  most 
reverend  excellency  gives  indulgence  for  eight  days  to  the  faith 
ful  of  both  sexes  who  are  truly  penitent,  and  have  confessed 
and  communed,  and  who  will  visit  the  Church  of  St.  Anne  in 
any  of  the  eight  days,  and  pray  there  for  some  time,  following 
the  instructions  of  his  holiness.  These  indulgences  can  be  ap 
plied  to  the  souls  of  the  dead. 

"  The  act  of  verification  and  translation  will  be  recorded  in 
proper  form  and  place ;  a  copy  will  be  framed  and  hung  up  near 
the  area  of  the  virgin  martyr.  His  most  reverend  excellency 
has  designated  the  30th  of  August  as  the  annual  festival  of  St. 
Priscilliana.  On  that  day  the  mass  Loquebar  pro  Yirgine  ef 
Martyre  is  to  be  chanted,  and  from  the  evening  of  that  to  sun 
set  of  the  following  day,  the  same  indulgences  will  be  conceded 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  303 

as  those  granted  by  his  reverend  excellency  on  the  eight  days 
of  translation. 

"A  great  multitude  concurred  in  the  solemn  and  pious  act 
of  translation.  The  people  crowded  the  streets  through  which 
the  procession  had  to  pass ;  the  windows  were  filled  with  the 
beautiful  and  devout  sex,  who  threw  flowers  upon  the  virgin 
and  the  canopy.  Satisfaction  was  evident  on  every  face,  and 
obviously  emanated  from  true  Christian  sentiment." — Sentinel- 
la  da  Monarchia  of  the  \§th  inst. 

The  presence  of  the  emperor  is  not  here  noticed.  The  omis 
sion  is  said  to  have  been  intended  as  a  slight,  for  this  paper  is 
owned  by  V—  — s,  whose  gross  immoralities,  though  an  influen 
tial  senator,  young  Pedro,  to  his  honor,  will  not  sanction. 

from  the  Diario. 

"MR.  EDITOR, — As  an  obedient  son  that  I  am  of  the  Roman 
Catholic  Apostolic  Church,  I  could  not  refrain  from  assisting  at 
the  translation  of  the  virgin  martyr,  St.  Priscilliana,  to  the 
church  of  Sta.  Anna,  where  she  now  is,  nor  from  admiring  the 
magnificence,  pomp,  and  decency  with  which  the  scene  was  cel 
ebrated — fruits  of  the  efforts  of  the  worthy  minister  of  that  par 
ish,  the  Reverend  Monsenhor  Dr.  Manoel  Joaquim  de  Miranda 
Rego,  who  filled  [or  conferred  on]  the  translation  with  much 
glory,  and  concluded  that  religious  act  by  delivering  an  oration, 
after  Te  Deum,  in  the  august  presence  of  their  imperial  majes 
ties.  His  eloquence  and  his  logic  imparted  the  highest  satis 
faction  to  all  who  heard  him.  The  theme  was  brilliant ;  the 
opening  of  the  subject  still  more  superior  from  the  force  of  his 
arguments — dignified,  lucid,  worthy  of  a  Brazilian  preacher  who 
is  an  honor  to  his  country  and  to  the  ecclesiastical  tribunes. 
May  it  please  the  heavens  to  continue  his  brilliant  career,  and 
that  he  may  leave  to  posterity  a  name  to  be  recorded  by  his 
countrymen  and  impartial  foreigners  !  Blessed  mother !  that 
has  brought  up  such  a  son  for  the  glory  of  divine  worship ! 
Praises  to  the  Brazilian  nation  who  endows  her  with  a  son  so 
useful  in  the  pulpit !  And  praises  to  the  Church  who  enjoys  a 
minister  with  such  talents,  and  a  pastor  so  respectable ! 

"A  BRAZILIAN  WHO  HEARD  HIM." 


304  SKETCHES   OF 

A  few  days  after  I  called  on  Priscilliana.  Three  soldiers 
with  bayonets  stood  on  each  side  of  the  door,  and  more  armed 
centurions  at  the  altar  rails.  An  oval  silver  dish,  such  as  graced 
of  yore  barons'  tables,  was  at  her  feet,  piled  to  overflowing  with 
money. 

The  china  vase  containing  the  blood,  palpably  modern,  is  like 
a  coffee-cup  with  a  cover.  Several  donations  of  100  milreis 
each  have  been  handed  in  to  Dr.  Miranda,  and  so  have  contri 
butions  of  another  kind — abusive  letters,  squibs,  and  pasquin 
ades.  Some  of  the  latter  were  in  print,  and  circulated  to  a  lim 
ited  extent  during  the  procession.  I  obtained  one,  but  it  will 
not  bear  translating. 

As  a  whole,  nothing  could  have  been  better  got  up  than  this 
waxen  figure  to  attract  a  superstitious  people.  Such  as  it  is,  it 
is  officially  recognized  as  "  the  sacred  body  of  the  virgin  martyr 
St.  Priscilliana." 

The  reader  has  now  seen  how,  in  modern  as  in  pagan  days, 
tutelary  deities  are  made  and  miracles  produced.  A  month  did 
not  elapse  before  some  wrought  by  the  new  saint  were  pro 
claimed.* 

A  French  tribunal  recently  condemned  a  printer  and  a  print- 
publisher  for  issuing  an  engraving  of  "the  apparition  of  the 
Holy  Virgin  to  two  children  on  a  mountain  of  Sallette,"  as  a 
criminal  attempt  to  foster  superstition  and  to  prey  upon  the  vul- 

*  A  letter  from  a  friend,  dated  August,  1848,  informs  me  that  he  had  "just 
called  at  the  temple  of  Priscilliana,  and  was  shown  a  closet  full  of  miracles." 

A  printed  circular  of  Miranda  to  the  clergy  is  now  before  me.  After  stating  that 
divine  Providence  had  made  use  of  him,  a  weak  instrument,  as  the  bearer  to  Brazil 
of  the  mortal  remains  of  the  glorious  St.  Priscilliana,  and  that,  to  improve  the  spe 
cial  favor  of  God,  "  the  Brotherhood  of  the  Holy  Virgin  Martyr  Priscilliana"  has 
been  instituted,  he  continues  : 

';  Confiding  in  the  piety  and  zeal  that  pervade  the  heart  of  your  reverence,  I  in 
vite  you,  in  the  name  of  the  same  virgin  martyr,  to  take  a  part  in  this  religious  and 
charitable  work ;  giving  it  your  valuable  aid ;  inviting  devout  parishioners  and 
friends  of  your  reverence  to  enroll  themselves  among  the  brothers  of  the  holy  vir 
gin  martyr  Priscilliana  ;  and  for  that  end  I  fully  authorize  your  reverence  to  receive 
the  names  of  new  members,  and  from  time  to  time  to  remit  me  a  return  of  the 
same,  to  be  registered  in  the  proper  books,  and  also  to  receive  the  sums  that  may 
be  given  on  their  admission.  You  are  advertised  that  the  initiation  fee  is  not  a 
tixed  one,  the  amount  being  left  to  the  inclination  and  devotion  of  each  individual. 
The  annual  dues  are  fixed  at  one  milrea.  All  persons,  of  every  age,  sex,  condition, 
or  state,  can  be  admitted  into  the  order  of  St.  Priscilliana,  who  will  specially  take 
your  reverence  under  her  protection  for  all  services  rendered  to  her  order." 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  305 

gar.  And  are  not  the  authors  of  this  Brazilian  tragedy — for, 
viewed  aright,  it  is  one — worthy  of  the  galleys  for  attempting, 
at  this  day,  still  farther  to  dwarfen  and  stifle  God's  image  in 
their  countrymen  ?  \Yith  the  masses,  the  sickly  imagination 
already  sits,  an  incubus,  on  the  prostrate  judgment,  and  visions 
of  insanity  are  reckoned  as  realities. 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

A  Day  for  getting  Souls  out  of  Purgatory. — Trip  to  the  Falls  of  Tejuca. — Charac 
ter  of  the  Country. — Anacharsis  and  Charcoal. — Fat  Pigs  and  Morphea. — Mills. 
— Cotton-tree. — Coffee  Plantation. — Tailless  Dogs  and  Fowls. — Process  of  pre 
paring  Coffee  for  the  Market. — Early  Notice  of  Cauphe. — The  Falls. — Dinner 
and  Dessert  at  them. — Inscriptions  on  the  Gavia. 

May  21.  A  general  holiday.  In  Minas  the  Ascension  is  cel 
ebrated  in  the  church  of  Our  Lady  of  Ampora,  and  indulgences 
granted  for  seven  years  and  eight  months.  Souls  can  be  drawn 
out  of  Purgatory  to-day.*  Without  attempting  any  thing  of  that 
kind,  I  was  one  of  a  party  who  withdrew  from  the  heat  and  tur 
moil  of  the  city,  and  sought  coolness  and  comfort  at  the  Falls 
of  Tejuca.  Mounted,  and  buoyant  in  spirits,  we  cantered  at  an 
early  hour  through  Engenho  Velha,  where  I  almost  envied  the 
owners  of  paradisiacal  chacaras.  On  the  walls  of  one  a  huge 
black  monkey  skipped  and  grinned.  As  we  proceeded,  dense 
forests  walled  us  in  at  either  hand.  A  beautiful  mount,  per 
fectly  isolated  and  covered  with  foliage,  rose  up,  and  farther  on, 
a  granite  pyramid,  regular  in  outline  in  the  distance  as  any  in 
Egypt.  The  road  becomes  more  and  more  rugged  as  we  enter 
the  gorges.  Solitary  habitations  appear  half  way  up  horrible 
precipices,  and  are  overshadowed  by  protruding  rocks  one  or 
two  thousand  feet  above  them.  How  men  reach  and  leave  such 
places  without  wings  I  can  not  perceive. 

A  short  level  spot  occurs,  and  we  gallop  two  abreast ;  anon 
our  animals,  in  single  file,  are  picking  their  way  amid  boulders 
down  break-neck  descents.  In  five  minutes  we  are  climbing 
similar  paths,  and  every  mile  drawing  up  to  allow  a  string  of 

*  Numerous  days  are  marked  in  the  calendar  with  the  word  "  Alma."  The  ex 
planation  is  invariably  given :  "  A  palavra  '  Alma1  indica  que  se  lira  uma  alma  do 
Purgatorio." 

u 


306  SKETCHES   OF 

charcoal-mules  to  rub  past  us,  each  carrying  three  bushels, 
worth  sixty  cents  in  the  city.  The  compliment  Anacharsis 
paid  the  Greeks  for  thus  carrying  wood  into  the  cities  and  leav 
ing  the  horrid  smoke  in  the  mountains  is  equally  applicable  to 
the  citizens  of  Rio. 

At  a  venda,  perched  on  a  bluff  by  the  road,  a  peon  with  re 
freshments  was  to  have  met  us.  He  had  not  got  up,  and  we*, 
breakfasted  on  eggs,  bread,  and  coffee.  The  laughing  sky,  ex 
citement  of  the  ride,  and  sharpened  appetites  it  had  given  us, 
with  the  cheerfulness  and  gayety  that  animated  all,  made  this, 
I  think,  one  of  the  most  delightful  meals  I  ever  partook  of. 

The  store  was  a  dark  little  hole,  with  a  stock  of  goods  that  I 
should  have  hesitated  at  purchasing  for  ten  dollars,  and  the 
building  for  ten  more.  Stepping  in,  I  stumbled  over  a  black 
yielding  mass  close  by  the  counter — a  sleeping  pig — one  that 
more  completely  filled  the  rectangle  of  symmetry  in  farmers' 
stock  than  any  animal  I  ever  saw.  Of  the  common  breed  of 
the  country,  it  was  said  not  to  be  unusually  fat,  yet  its  eyes 
were  half  buried  by  its  swelled-up  chops.  I  don't  know  that 
the  race  possesses  qualities  superior  to  those  in  the  United 
States,  but  the  short  nose,  sharp  ears,  small  bones,  thin  skin, 
its  corpulence,  "ready  disposition  to  fatten, "with  other  good 
points  familiar  to  cattle  physiologists,  made  an  admiring  con 
trast  with  the  tall,  gaunt,  coarse,  flap-eared,  long-faced  speci 
mens  that  perambulate  some  of  our  cities.  Their  flesh  is  pret 
ty  nearly  all  lean,  while  Brazilian  pigs  are  literally  "  all  lard.'' 
Pork-growers  here  reap  richer,  if  not  larger  crops  than  are  raised 
in  our  Western  States. 

Droves  of  these  animals  are  brought  over  the  mountains  from 
Minas,  in  which  province  people  live  chiefly  on  pork,  and  are 
consequently  subject  to  morphea,  a  species  of  leprosy,  for  the 
cure  of  which  guano  is  used.  The  patient  is  laid  On  a  bed  of 
that  substance,  and  his  body  covered  with  it,  or  a  hole  dug,  and 
all  but  his  head  interred.  « 

Upon  a  fence  close  by,  a  three-foot  cross,  of  hoop  iron,  told 
us  that  some  one's  spirit  had  been  disembodied  there  by  a  bul 
let,  knife,  or  bludgeon.  We  came  to  a  Moinho  de  Papel,  driven 
by  a  foaming  streamlet.  The  paper,  whity  brown,  was  spread 
over  an  acre  of  ground  to  dry.  Next  we  stopped  at  the  Fonte 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  307 

D'Aqua,  Ferrea  de  Andarahy,  a  tiny  rill  of  iron-water,  to  which 
a  pretty  fountain  structure  has  been  dedicated. 

Not  far  off,  the  very  rheumatic  undershot  wheel  of  a  clatter 
ing  grist-mill  was  painfully  whirling  round,  impelled  by  a  furi 
ous  torrent  that  danced  and  laughed  at  its  groanings,  and  push 
ed  and  kicked  it  on. 

The  road  presented  as  varied  a  succession  of  ascents  and  de 
scents  as  a  section  of  the  ocean  in  a  storm.  At  times  it  re 
minded  one  of  traversing  the  ruins  of  some  mighty  Babylon, 
where,  at  every  step,  fallen  masses  interrupted  progress,  and 
awful  structures  were  ready  to  tumble  down.  Tedious,  and  to 
timid  travelers  somewhat  dangerous,  to  thread  the  broken,  ab 
rupt,  and  tortuous  tracks,  no  sooner  was  a  moderately  level  spot 
attained  than  most  of  the  party,  to  make  up  for  previous  creep 
ing,  scampered  off  like  flying  Camanches. 

The  pervading  material  is  bare  white  granite,  that  soars  up 
to  heaven  and  descends  into  glens  deep  down  below  us,  while 
insulated  masses,  large  as  our  largest  mansions,  lie  tossed  about 
in  all  directions,  as  if  the  wars  of  the  giants  had  been  waged 
here.  But  wild  and  awful  as  the  scene  is,  it  is  occasionally  di 
versified  with  floral  and  horticultural  gems,  the  ever- recurring 
plantain  and  banana,  clusters  of  pendent  mamaos,  air-plants, 
creeping  vines,  graceful  pitos,  and  stately  palms.  Young  coffee- 
plants  cover  one  mountain  slope,  full-grown  ones  another,  and, 
farther  on,  forests  are  being  cut  down  to  make  room  for  more. 
We  paused  a  moment  by  a  tree,  large  and  wide-spreading  as  an 
oak,  conspicuous  for  being  without  leaves  —  the  only  one,  I 
think,  that  loses  them  in  winter ;  but  its  fruit  arrested  my  at 
tention  :  hundreds  of  cucumber-shaped  husks,  some  open  at 
their  lower  ends,  and  showing  a  white  substance  within.  In  a 
week  or  two  they  will  split  wide  open  and  fall,  leaving  compact 
balls  of  snow-white  cotton,  which  soon  swell  out  large  as  hu 
man  heads.  This  is  the  cotton-tree  of  old  travelers.  The  fibre 
is  soft,  short,  and  silky ;  it  is  used  to  stuff  pillows,  and  has  this 
singular  property,  that  when  one  of  them  is  crushed  or  flatten 
ed,  by  simply  exposing  it  to  the  sun,  the  contents  swell  it  out 
to  its  original  form  and  volume. 

Mr.  O —  -  led  us  aside  to  one  of  the  best-conducted  coffee 
plantations  in  the  province.  The  low  mansion  is  seated  in  a 


308  SKETCHES   OF 

valley  that  angels  might  love  to  dwell  in.  A  dozen  times  to 
day,  and  now  again,  I  have  mentally  exclaimed,  "  Oh,  but  this 
is  a  glorious  world,  if  we  would  view  it  through  some  other  me 
dium  than  dollars !"  The  proprietor  had  gone  to  the  city,  but 
his  amiable  lady  received  us  politely.  She  was  followed  about 
by  two  parrots,  which,  from  jealousy,  chased  each  other  from 
her.  Perfectly  free,  they  take  excursions  abroad  to  scream  and 
chatter  with  their  untutored  kindred. 

Familiar  with  the  place,  Mr.  O —  led  us  first  into  a  long- 
barn,  fitted  up  throughout  with  stalls.  At  the  head  of  each,  in 
place  of  a  manger,  was  a  wide  board  on  trestles.  "  What  arc 
these?"  I  asked.  "Beds  and  bedsteads  of  the  slaves."  Had 
i  we  passed  through  in  silence,  I  should  not  have  suspected  the 
place  was  any  thing  but  a  stable;  still,  it  was  clean  swept, 
and  is  said  to  be  superior  to  the  general  run  of  slave  accommo 
dations.  Against  some  stalls  leaned  bundles  of  torches,  used 
by  travelers  after  dark,  and  kept  for  sale  at  vendas.  They  are 
long  splints  of  a  resinous  cedar,  and  are  made  by  industrious 
slaves  on  Sundays  for  their  own  benefit.  Mats  and  coarse 
straw  hats  are  also  fabrics  by  which  they  earn  a  few  coppers. 

Here  were  two  goats  confined,  the  only  milch  cows  on  the 
estate ;  and  here  were  domestic  fowls  without  tails,  known  as 
the  Sura  breed.  A  couple  of  large  dogs  also,  belonging  to  a 
race  that  have  no  caudal  members.  In  one  place  stood  the 
popular  mandioca  mill  [described  in  a  subsequent  chapter], 

We  next  witnessed  the  processes  by  which  coffee  on  this  es 
tate  is  prepared  for  market.  I  think  I  have  remarked  that  the 
ripe  fruit  is  not  unlike  a  cherry  in  shape  or  color.  The  skin, 
rather  thick  and  tough,  incloses  two  of  the  grains  or  seeds 
known  as  coffee.  The  old  procedure,  still  the  prevailing  one, 
is  this :  When  the  berries  have  acquired  a  deep  red,  they  are 
picked  into  bags,  thrown  into  heaps,  and  spread  out  on  level 
spots  of  ground  to  dry  in  the  sun.  In  front  of  a  chacara,  on 
the  face  of  a  mountain  full  seven  hundred  feet  above  us,  I  ob 
served,  as  we  came  along,  the  entire  surface  of  a  detached  table- 
rock,  presenting  several  thousand  superficial  feet,  covered  with 
them.  When  the  skins  become  shriveled,  hard,  and  almost 
black,  they  are  pounded  in  wooden  mortars.  The  blows  break 
the  skins  without  injuring  the  tough  grains.  By  sifting,  the 


LIFE  IN   BRAZIL.  309 

latter  are  separated  and  again  laid  out  to  dry,  till  a  pellicle  en 
veloping  each  grain  is  deprived  of  moisture,  when  a  fresh  appeal 
to  the  mortar  and  winnowing-fan  leaves  them  ready  for  sale  or 
consumption. 

The  improved  mode  consists  in  drying  the  grains  on  wooden 
trays  or  beds  of  slate,  by  which  an  earthy  flavor,  acquired  when 
dried  on  the  soil,  is  avoided ;  and  in  the  introduction  of  two 
mills  for  removing  the  outer  and  inner  envelopes.  The  chief 
feature  of  the  first  mill  is  a  horizontal  copper  cylinder,  whose 
surface  is  roughened  after  the  manner  of  a  rasp.  It  revolves 
against  a  board,  between  which  and  the  teeth  space  is  left  for 
the  grains  to  pass,  but  not  the  husk.  The  grains  drop  into  wa 
ter,  and  are  left  to  soak  twelve  hours,  by  which  a  mucilaginous 
matter  is  removed,  and  the  thin  parchment  film  inclosing  each 
grain  softened.  They  are  spread  out  in  trays  to  dry.  I  count 
ed  200  of  these  in  one  row,  covering  a  space  700  feet  by  15. 

When  completely  dry,  the  grains  are  taken  to  a  mill  resem 
bling  those  used  for  grinding  plaster,  except  that  the  two  ver 
tical  rolling  discs  are  wood,  six  feet  in  diameter,  and  five  inches 
thick.  Their  light  weight  suffices  to  break  and  abrade  the  pel 
licles  without  injuring  the  grains.  After  being  subjected  to  a 
fanner,  they  are  put  up  in  bags  for  exportation.* 

Eesuming  our  journey,  we  overtook  four  slaves  conveying 
lumber  from  the  city.  Each  bore  on  his  head  two  or  more 
planks.  Another  advance,  and  we  hear  the  Tejuca  stream  tum 
bling  among  rocks  at  our  left,  but  concealed  below  among  shrub 
bery  and  crags.  More  precipices  covered  with  coffee-plants  oc 
cur,  and  men  like  midges  picking  the  fruit.  How  they  retain 
foothold,  especially  when  working  the  soil,  is  wonderful.  Plows 

*  Of  the  decoction  of  coiFee,  which  was  not  introduced  into  Paris  till  1667,  nor 
into  London  till  a  few  years  after,  Henry  Blount,  in  his  Voyage  to  the  Levant  in 
1634,  thus  quaintly  speaks  : 

"  They  have  another  drinke  not  good  at  meat,  called  Cauphe,  made  of  a  berry  as 
bigge  as  a  small  beane,  dryed  in  a  furnace  and  beat  to  powder,  of  a  soote  colour, 
in  taste  a  little  bitterish,  that  they  seethe  and  drinke  hote  as  may  be  endured :  it 
is  goode  at  all  houres  of  the  day,  but  especially  morning  and  evening,  when  to  that 
purpose  they  entertaine  themselves  two  or  three  hours  in  Cauphe-houses,  which  in 
all  Turkey  abound  more  than  innes  and  ale-houses  with  us.  It  is  thought  to  be 
the  old  black  broth  used  so  much  by  the  Lacedemonians  (!).  It  dryeth  ill  humors  in 
the  stomacke,  comforteth  the  braine,  never  causeth  drunkennesse  or  any  surfeit, 
and  is  a  hannelesse  entertainment  of  good  fellowship." 


310  SKETCHES   OF 

are  wholly  out  of  the  question  in  these  regions,  unless  drawn 
by  goats,  and  Pan  himself  turns  plowman.  The  scene  grows 
wilder ;  we  are  surrounded  by  stupendous  peaks,  and  before  us 
the  mighty  Gavia  towers,  quite  altered  from  its  city  aspect. 
Here  are  rocks  scattered  in  profusion,  and  varying  in  dimen 
sions  from  hogsheads  to  ten-story  houses.  The  road  winds 
among  them,  and  at  one  place  but  eighteen  inches  are  left  for  us 
to  pass  through.  A  singular  variety  of  granite  appears  in  two 
or  three  immense  blocks  of  a  bluish  slate  color  and  close  grain, 
differing  in  toto  from  all  around.  A  patch  of  the  ocean  becomes 
for  a  moment  visible  at  the  extremity  of  the  glen,  through  which 
the  Tejucan  River  is  hastening  to  the  universal  reservoir. 

We  reached  a  woody  cliff,  on  the  edge  of  which  a  miserable 
venda  stands.  Fastening  our  cattle  to  protruding  roots  of 
trees,  we  climbed  the  ascent,  passed  through  a  banana  orchard, 
went  down  a  winding  foot-path  for  one  fourth  of  a  mile,  and 
emerged  from  the  forest  upon  the  glistening  floor  of  our  selected 
dining-hall,  at  the  foot  of  the  falls  of  the  Tejuca.  Here  our  peon 
had  arrived  with  a  basket  charged  to  the  brim  with  refreshments. 

A  rather  small  body  of  water  comes  tumbling  down  some 
sixty  feet  upon  a  broad  and  broken  descent,  inclining  25°  from 
the  perpendicular.  The  thin  sheet  pouring  over  the  top  is  di 
vided  as  it  falls,  so  that  not  half  the  precipice  is  covered  by  it. 
Collecting  below  us  at  the  edge  of  the  enormous  table-rock  on 
which  our  repast  was  laid,  and  gliding  by,  only  a  few  inches 
beneath  our  feet,  it  expands  again,  dances  down  short  rapids  to 
another  fall  of  a  narrow  shute,  and  soon  is  in  the  arms  of  Oce- 
anus.  In  this  secluded  retreat  the  Bishop  of  Rio  lay  concealed 
during  the  troubles  with  the  French  Protestants  in  Coligny's 
time.  Remains  of  a  wall  built  by  him  were  pointed  out. 

But  ihQJantar  now,  more  than  aught  else,  attracted  us.  It 
included  a  condiment,  not  put  in  the  basket,  that  surpassed  an 
chovy  and  curry  sauce  in  heightening  the  flavor  of  every  thing 
mixed  with  it — "  St.'Bernard's  mustard,"  an  essence  distilled 
from  abstinence  and  activity.  Our  table  extended  into  the  chan 
nel,  and  there  we  reclined  and  banqueted  among  scenery  far  ex 
celling  that  which  Pliny's  Laurentinum  dining-chamber  opened 
on.  Shielded  from  the  sun  by  nature's  parasols,  far  from  the 
busy  scenes  of  artificial  life,  not  a  carking  care  to  trouble  us, 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  311 

and  our  spirits  airy  as  our  dresses,  we  laughed,  and  talked,  and 
dipped  our  cups  in  the  crystal  stream  as  people  did  in  the  Golden 
Age.  Flora  adorned  the  hanging  shrubbery  ;  Pomona,  from  the 
distance,  looked  on  ;  zephyrs  played  round  us  ;  and  naiads — if 
naiads  there  be — frisked  in  the  falls,  and  threw  spray  at  us  as 
they  glided  by. 

Had  the  gods  of  Olympus  and  their  ladies  been  on  a  visit  to 
the  gigantic  Gavia,  which  now  overshadowed  us,  they  would  not 
have  waited  for  an  invitation  to  our  luncheon.  They  did  not 
make  their  appearance,  but  other  guests,  as  little  expected,  did 
— a  couple  of  black  hunters.  Not  daring  to  approach  nearer 
than  thirty  feet  without  permission,  they  held  up  their  game, 
the  principal  item  being  a  black  opossum.  After  waiting  a  while, 
they  consulted  together  and  vanished.  In  half  an  hour  they  re 
appeared  with  branches  of  orange-trees  laden  with  ripe  fruit. 
These  they  brought,  and  in  silence  laid  them  at  our  feet.  The 
appeal  was  not  in  vain. 

Half  way  up  the  cataract  a  protruding  rock  protects  a  tuft  of 

vegetation.  Messrs.  C and  O •  challenged  the  rest  of 

the  party  to  reach  it  with  a  stone.  Stones,  however,  were  not 
at  hand,  but  oranges  were,  and  three  dozen  were  sent  flying  at 
the  mark,  while  only  one  attained  it.  The  rest  came  leaping 
back,  and,  swimming  past  us,  were  soon  tossing  on  the  ocean. 

Close  to  and  immediately  facing  us,  the  highest  peak  of  the 
Gavia  soared  in  the  blue  vault.  It  has  long  puzzled  the  learned 
with  its  inscriptions.  With  a  good  telescope  we  made  out  sev 
eral  marks,  something  like  |  Hx  A  I7M-  Though  to  the  eye 
these  appeared  of  no  unusual  dimensions,  they  were  probably 
thirty  feet  in  length.  It  need  hardly  be  said  that  they  are  nat 
ural  sculptures.  No  mortal  stone-cutter  ever  reached  them,  nor 
could  any  now  stand  to  carve  them  except  on  a  platform  raised 
on  balloons.  If,  as  has  been  suggested  of  other  characters  on 
the  opposite  face  of  the  peak  (in  the  Journal  of  the  Geographical 
Institute),  they  are  to  be  referred  to  people  of  the  primitive 
world,  they  will  go  far  to  prove  that  Roman  letters  and  numer 
als  were  taught  in  schools  myriads  of  ages  before  the  flood,  and 
that  scientific  navigators,  in  those  early  days,  were  cruising  on 
these  shores. 


CHURCH   OF   SJ 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

Church  Advertisements. — Auction  and  Fire-works  at  St.  Rita's  Church. — Articles 
sold. — Official  Puff. — Horse-racing  in  honor  of  the  Holy  Ghost. — St.  Gon9alo 
the  Friend  of  the  unmarried. — Capuchin  preaching. — Two  Slaves  given  to  the 
Friars,  and  their  Baptism  by  Bedini. — Chief  Capuchin. — Priscilliana. — Famine 
in  Ceara. — Indians  bought  and  sold. 

May  23.  Church  advertisements  again  abound.  Specimens 
may  be  serviceable  when  a  general  history  of  religious  vagaries 
is  undertaken. 


SKETCHES   OF   LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  313 

"  The  Board  of  the  Brotherhood  of  the  Divine  Holy  Ghost 
of  the  Parish  of  Sta.  Anna  participates  to  the  respectable  public 
that  the  Feast  of  the  Divine  Holy  Ghost  will  begin  on  the  31st 
inst. ;  St.  Bartholomew's  on  the  1st  proximo  ;  and  that  of  Jesus, 
Mary,  and  Joseph,  on  the  2d,  with  all  splendor  compatible  with 
the  means  and  zeal  of  the  administrators.  On  the  third  day  of 
the  Feast  of  the  Holy  Ghost  there  will  be  fire-works,  such  as 
have  never  before  been  exhibited,  and  superior  from  their  mag 
nitude  and  novelty  of  their  mechanism.  On  Sunday,  June  7, 
the  Emperor  elect  of  the  Holy  Ghost  will  take  possession,  which 
act  will  be  followed  with  a  Te  Deum  and  sermon.  At  night 
there  will  be  the  Empire  and  the  Auction.  We  beg  the  breth 
ren  and  the  pious  to  concur,  with  their  alms  and  their  presence, 
to  make  more  brilliant  acts  so  worthy  of  our  religious  regard. 

"  JOSE  J.  G.  FEEREIKA,  Sec'y." 

The  emperor  is  a  boy  elected  annually,  and  crowned  in  the 
church.  His  "  empire"  is  a  portion  of  ground  adjoining  the 
church,  and  fenced  in  for  spectators,  including  the  stage  erected 
against  the  church,  on  which  he  sits  enthroned,  to  preside  over 
the  auction  and  amusements.  Formerly  an  Empress  of  the 
Holy  Ghost  sat  by  the  Emperor,  with  little  maids  of  honor  to 
wait  on  her.  Such  is  still  the  practice  in  the  interior. 

"  The  Brotherhood  of  the  Divine  Holy  Ghost  of  the  Convent 
of  Friars  of  the  Carmo,  in  the  Lapa  do  Desterro,  inform  the  pub 
lic  and  devout  persons  that  on  the  22d  inst.  begins  the  Novena 
of  the  Eitual,  and  on  the  31st  the  Feast  of  the  Holy  Ghost. 
On  the  1st  proximo  the  Feast  of  our  Lord  of  the  Paces ;  and  on 
the  22d,  that  of  Sta.  Anna  and  St.  Joaquim — all  of  which  will 
be  celebrated  with  appropriate  magnificence.  Every  night  there 
will  be  music  and  an  auction.  On  the  last  one,  beautiful  fire 
works." 

"  The  Chairman  and  Directors  of  the  Divine  Holy  Ghost  of 
the  parish  of  St.  Rita  inform  the  respectable  public  that  to-day, 
22d  inst.,  will  begin,  with  much  pomp  and  decency,  the  Novena 
and  Auction.  They  hope  the  brethren  and  the  pious  will  con 
tribute,  by  their  presence  and  their  alms,  to  the  brilliancy  of 
the  Feast." 


314  SKETCHES    OF 

I  thought  of  accepting  this  last  invitation,  but  F said, 

"It  is  a  long  way  to  go,  and  there  will  be  a  poor  sale  to-night. 
Wait  till  the  great  day  of  the  feast ;  then  almost  every  person 
sends  a  present  to  the  Holy  Ghost,  and  there  will  be  a  Bom 
Lcilao."  After  tea,  however,  I  felt  inclined  for  a  walk,  and  bent 
my  steps  to  the  city  by  lamplight.  Calling  at  T—  — 's,  Messrs. 
C—  -  and  M—  -  readily  joined  with  me  in  a  visit  to  the 
neighboring  shrine  of  Santa  Rita.  A  day  view  of  this  old  struc 
ture  and  the  adjoining  fountain  is  shown  on  page  312.  To  be 
in  character  with  our  visit,  it  should  have  been  a  night  scene. 

As  we  drew  near,  the  church  tower  was  seen  decked  with 
colored  lamps,  and  the  white  front  red  as  blood  with  the  glare 
of  flambeaus  in  the  little  triangular  largo.  The  scene  which 
then  burst  on  us  was  more  suited  to  the  suburbs  of  Tartarus 
than  the  court-yard  of  a  heavenly  lady.  Nine  young  negro- 
heads,  soaked  in  tar  and  tallow,  and  stuck  on  poles  let  into  the 
pavement,  were  blazing  before  the  church,  amid  the  shouts  and 
laughter  of  a  crowd  of  men  and  boys,  both  black  and  white. 
The  air  was  suffused  with  smoke,  whose  dense  curling  volumes 
appeared  white  in  the  universal  darkness  overhead — the  sicken 
ing  odor,  hissings  and  spurtings  of  bursting  blisters,  the  grin 
ning  visages  of  the  restless  throng — now  lost  to  sight,  and  anon 
lit  up  with  fire,  as  the  wind  affected  the  flames.  There  is  but 
one  place  which  such  a  scene  could  call  to  mind.  But,  lest  the 
reader  should  denounce  the  goddess  of  the  place  a  she-Moloch, 
delighting  in  roasted  skulls,  he  is  informed  that  the  festival 
torches — "  Cabe$as  de  Moleques" — are  spherical  masses  of 
oakum  saturated  with  pitch  and  kindred  matters. 

We  passed  into  the  fane  between  two  armed  centurions  at 
the  door.  Hung  round  with  showy  tapestry,  it  was  brilliantly 
lit  up.  The  lady's  altar  was  a  sheet  of  light.  At  a  table  on 
the  floor  sat  a  committee  bartering  "  blessed  pictures"  for  vin- 
tems  and  patacas.  There  were  three  qualities  and  sizes — quarto, 
octavo,  and  duodecimo.  When  a  contribution  was  laid  down, 
the  chairman,  eyeing  it,  spoke  to  the  brother  at  his  right,  who 
then  drew  from  a  drawer  a  print  of  the  proper  value,  while  the 
treasurer,  at  his  left,  added  the  money  to  a  pile  on  a  silver  tray. 
As  usual  at  festivals,  two  soldiers,  with  fixed  bayonets,  stood 
by  to  guard  the  treasure.  Senhor  M procured  for  me  one 


LIFE  IN   BRAZIL. 


315 


of  the  paper  gems ;  printed  in  red  ink,  it  represents  a  dove  and 
triangle  within  a  nimbus,  and  over  them  an  old  man,  with  a  long 
beard,  looking  out  of  a  cloud. 

After  looking  round  a  while,  we  crossed  the  floor  and  passed, 
as  did  most  of  the  visitors,  through  an  open  door  into  an  adjoin 
ing  apartment,  and  found  ourselves  in  a  crowd.  The  room  wa's 
long  and  narrow,  and  the  benches  on  both  sides  jammed  with 
men  and  boys.  Against  the  left  wall  sat  three  brethren  in  of 
ficial  robes,  and  before  them  a  table,  upon  which  stood,  between 
three-branched  candlesticks,  one  of  the  portable  symbols  of  the 
Holy  Ghost  carried  by  street  collectors.  Between  the  benches, 
a  short  brother,  in  an  alb,  was  walking  to  and  fro,  and  address 
ing  the  congregation  with  perspiring  fervor.  Every  moment  he 
kept  applying  a  handkerchief  to  his  streaming  forehead.  As  he 
drew  near,  I  perceived  that  he  was  descanting  on  a  sugared  cake 
which  he  held  up  on  a  salver.  We  were  in  Santa  Rita's  auction- 
room,  and  this  gentleman  was  her  salesman.  The  cake  was 
knocked  down ;  the  purchaser  handed  a  bill  to  the  auctioneer, 
who  hurried  to  the  table,  and  returned  with  the  change  and  a 


AUCTION   IN   SANTA  RITA'S   CHUKCH. 


316  SKETCHES  OF 

small  print — such  as  were  being  disposed  of  in  the  church — 
every  purchaser  at  the  auction  receiving  one  gratis. 

Several  large  frosted  cakes  were  put  up,  but  the  sale  dragged 
heavily.  The  salesman  was  far  from  being  an  expert ;  he  lack 
ed  volubility  and  wit.  A  laugh  was  now  and  then  elicited,  but 
seldom  by  his  own  jokes.  He  was  much  annoyed  by  young 
fellows  predisposed  to  fun,  and  determined  to  enjoy  it:  they 
tried  his  temper  severely.  There  was,  in  truth,  something  about 
him  that  whetted  humorous  appetites,  as  he  came  puffing  along, 
holding  up  the  salver  to  every  face  that  looked  like  a  buying 
one,  and  repeating,  with  a  supplicatory  tone  and  look,  "Hum 
milreis — hum  milreis — hum  milreis^  /Senhor"  His  head,  half 
isolated  from  his  body  by  the  alb,  and  nearly  denuded  of  hair, 
with  his  glistening  face,  was  incessantly  drawn  this  way  and 
that  by  bids  which  he  could  find  none  to  acknowledge.  At 
length  a  quiet-looking  young  man  made  an  offer,  and  was  de 
clared  the  purchaser.  The  article  was  handed  to  him,  and,  lo  I 
he  had  no  money !  The  enraged  knight  of  the  hammer  seized 
him  by  the  collar,  and  led  him  to  the  managers  at  the  table  amid 
roars  of  laughter.  As  he  had  no  means  of  payment,  nothing 
could  be  done  but  to  reprove  him  and  let  him  go.  A  gentleman 
took  the  lot  and  paid  for  it — or,  rather,  exchanged  money  for  it. 
Nothing  sacred  is  sold,  only  exchanged.  We,  of  course,  would 
consider  these  transactions  cash  sales ;  for  the  terms  are  cash  on 
delivery,  and  delivery  immediately. 

Every  eye  was  again  turned  to  the  recess  or  niche  behind  the 
managers,  to  see  what  next  would  be  brought  out.  An  officer, 
in  a  black  gown  and  white  tippet,  who  seemed  to  have  charge 
of  the  goods,  handed  forth  something,  which  the  chairman  no 
sooner  passed  across  the  table  than  there  arose  such  a  cluck 
ing  !  It  was  a  live  hen.  Grasped  by  the  thighs,  it  appeared  to 
sit  quite  comfortably  on  the  auctioneer's  hand.  It  was  struck 
off  at  fifty  cents — double  its  market  value.  Next  came  a  su 
perb  white  chanticleer — the  signal  of  a  general  crowing  and 
clapping  of  elbows  in  imitation  of  wings.  One  or  two  young 
men  were  natural  ventriloquists ;  the  cock-a-cloodle-do-o-o-ing 
came  in  at  the  street  door,  then  out  of  the  church,  and  anon  was 
under  the  managers'  table.  The  merriment  was  universal.  The 
fluttering  bird  brought  1260  reis — 62  cents. 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  317 

A  large  custard  was  now  tried,  and  the  buyer  turned  out  to 
be  the  one  that  had  no  moriey :  he  said  he  would  call  to-mor 
row  for  it !  This  gave  rise  to  a  general  screech,  and  led  to  a 
scuffle  between  the  bidder  and  the  bantered  salesman.  The 
dispute  was  ended  by  a  higher  bid ;  but  when  the  article  was 
offered  to  the  new  bidder,  he  said  it  was  too  hard  baked,  and 
would  not  take  it !  The  vender  became  furious ;  but,  recover 
ing  himself,  he  said  it  was  too  hard  for  such  a  fellow's  teeth 
— meaning  too  costly  for  his  pocket.  The  fillip  was  applaud 
ed,  and  the  little  man,  tickled  with  the  hit,  threw  back  his  head, 
and  laughed  louder  and  longer  than  any  one  else. 

He  next  brought  round  a  folded  paper,  contents  unknown. 
He  refused  to  break  the  envelope,  or  say  what  was  within.  It 
brought  300  reis,  and  proved  to  be  cold  roast  chicken.  Three 
"Macaas  Americanas"  (Newtown  pippins)  brought  thirteen 
cents  each.  A  lady  informs  me  she  has  known  fifty  milreis,  or 
twenty-five  dollars,  given  for  an  apple  at  this  feast,  the  com 
petitors  showing  in  this  way  their  attachment  to  the  Church. 
Other  matters  were  put  up ;  but  I  got  tired,  and  left  the  auc 
tioneer  trying  a  large  plum-cake,  over  the  frosted  top  of  which 
he  kept  drawing  his  hand,  as  if  stroking  the  back  of  a  pet  bird 
or  rabbit. 

Most  of  the  articles  sold  at  these  ecclesiastical  auctions  are 
purchased  at  wholesale  prices  by  the  managers,  and  thus  re 
tailed  at  profits  varying  from  50  to  500  per  cent.,  the  dona 
tions  brought  in  by  collectors  not  being  sufficient,  nor  always 
suitable.  One  of  the  best  specimens  of  the  salesman's  elo 
quence  is  the  following  scrap,  translated  by  an  accompanying 
friend : 

"  Twenty-five — thirty — thirty-five  vintems  for  this  blessed 
cake ;  blessed  by  the  Holy  Father  Xavier  Maria  Luiz  Oliveiro. 
Who  bids  more  ?  Thirty — ah !  the  good- will  of  Our  Lady  be 
with  you,  my  friend.  Forty  are  bid ! — only  forty  vintems  for 
food  which  will  purge  all  diseases  lurking  in  him  that  eats  it. 
The  saints  befriend  you,  Senhor.  Forty-five!  Who  is  the 
next  bidder?  Who?  Forty-five!  Allelulia!  Fifty  vintems 
are  bid — it  is  enough — and,"  taking  the  money,  "  may  your 
victuals  be  always  as  sweet  as  you'll  find  this,  Senhor!' 

No  females  were  present.     Though  respectable  families  are 


318  SKETCHES  OF 

invited  ;  it  was  obviously  no  place  for  ladies.  One  of  my  com 
panions  belonged  to  the  Church,  and,  in  answer  to  my  inquiries, 
said  the  place  was  wholly  unfit  for  respectable  females  to  appear 
in.  Of  the  evening's  entertainments  the  following  puff  was  in 
serted  in  one  of  the  daily  papers : 

"MR.  EDITOR, — The  auction  of  the  Divine  Holy  Ghost,  in 
Santa  Rita,  to  be  continued  to  the  3d  proximo,  is  very  interest 
ing.  The  select  company  that  assembles  there,  the  order  and 
decorum  with  which  the  auction  is  conducted,  reflect  credit  on 
the  providor  and  managers.  Permit  me  to  invite,  through  your 
columns,  all  devotees  of  the  Miraculous  Holy  Ghost  to  attend, 
with  their  families,  in  order  to  increase  the  brilliancy  of  this  de 
votional  exercise.  UM  DEVOTO." 

The  same  paper  had  the  following  notice  to  sporting  devotees : 

"  The  Brotherhood  of  the  Divine  Holy  Ghost  of  Ban  Gon- 
9alo  (a  small  village  across  the  Bay)  will  hold  the  Feast  of  the 
Holy  Ghost  on  the  31st  instant  with  all  possible  splendor.  De 
vout  persons  are  invited  to  attend,  to  give  greater  pomp  to  this 
act  of  religion.  On  the  1st  proximo  the  Feast  of  the  Most  Holy 
Sacrament,  with  a  procession  in  the  evening,  a  Te  Deum,  and 
sermon.  On  the  2d,  the  feast  of  the  patron  San  Goi^alo ;  at 
three  P.M.  there  will  be  brilliant  horse-racing,  after  which  a 
Te  Deum  and  magnificent  fire-works." 

As  I  shall  not  have  an  opportunity  to  pay  a  visit  to  Gon^alo. 
I  may  as  well  remark  here  that  he  is  a  popular  friend  of  Por 
tuguese  and  Brazilian  elderly  single  ladies.  Young  ones  in 
voke  him  too,  but  in  a  petulant  spirit.  Their  staple  address  is : 

"  San  Gon9alo  of  Amarante, 
Match-maker  for  old  women  ! 
Why  don't  you  marry  young  ones  1 
What  harm  have  they  done  you?" 

The  Carmelites  at  the  Lapa  Church  surpass  St.  Rita's  man 
agers  in  external  display.  The  front  is  covered  with  festoons 
of  colored  lamps,  cords  stretch  from  the  roof  bearing  flags  and 
tapestries.  A  handsomely  draped  stage  for  the  auction  is  fitted 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  319 

up  at  one  side  of  the  doorway,  and  at  the  other  a  band  of  mu 
sicians  sit.  The  fire-works  are  not  confined  to  blazing  skulls 
of  negroes,  for  on  high  poles  stand  men  and  women  waiting  to 
be  consumed.  But,  after  all,  the  festival  is  not  very  attractive 
during  day  or  night.  The  auctioneer  has  neither  tact  nor  wit, 
so  that  his  sales  drag  heavily.  The  poorest  of  artists  he  is,  to 
use  a  native  proverb,  "  a  John  Lopez — neither  vinegar,  honey, 
nor  Malmsey  wine — nothing." 

Pyrotechnists  notify  the  churches  of  new  and  cheap  fogos, 
heading  their  advertisements  with  vivas  for  the  saints,  particu 
larly  Anthony  and  John. 

The  Capuchins  announce  for  public  veneration  a  relic  just  ar 
rived  from  Kome.  Another  notice  runs  thus : 

"  On  Sunday,  24th,  will  be  celebrated  the  Feast  of  St.Fidelis 
de  Sigmaringa,  proto-martyr  Capuchinho,  with  a  solemn  mass 
by  the  excellentissimo  senhor,  the  Internuncio  Monsenhor  Be- 
dini.  Preaching  by  the  Brother  John  Baptist  de  Caserta,  Cap 
uchin  missionary.  The  feast  will  begin  at  9  A.M.  In  the 
evening  a  sermon,  and  the  Litany  of  Our  Lady,  with  other  de 
votions  ;  to  conclude  with  the  presentation  of  the  relic  of  the 
holy  martyr  to  be  kissed.  We  all  must  imitate  the  examples 
of  those  who,  faithful  to  God,  confessed  with  an  apostolic  bosom 
the  faith  of  Jesus  Christ,  and  sealed  it  with  their  proper  blood. 
Behold  the  true  age  of  light !"  J 

A  lusty  brother  preached.  His  voice  was  small  for  so  large 
a  man,  weak  and  soft  as  a  woman's.  His  theme  was  Fidelis, 
whose  image  stood  before  him.  The  pathetic  is  his  forte.  Di 
lating  on  the  sufferings  of  the  saint,  he  rose  from  smothered 
groans  to  thrilling  wails,  pressed  his  hands  to  his  breast,  threw 
them  toward  Fidelis,  and  sunk  every  five  minutes  on  his  seat 
to  suffer  his  emotions  to  subside.  About  200  persons  were 
present,  the  greater  part  females.  During  the  sermon  a  brother 
was  dealing  out  pictures  of  Fidelis.  The  little  temple  was  im 
proved  in  appearance.  A  series  of  oil  paintings  of  Capuchin 
worthies  occupied  the  walls  ;  among  them,  "  Crispim  de  Viter- 
bo."  The  main  altar  has  been  touched  up,  and  the  wax  votos 
suspended  by  fresh  ribbons.  An  additional  female  saint,  of  full 


320  SKETCHES  OF 

stature,  was  there  ;  a  naked  baby  plays  at  her  feet,  and  a  small 
er  sits  on  the  palm  of  her  hand,  reminding  one  of  the  Pompeian 
picture  of  Leda. 

The  preacher  being  through,  the  nuncio  entered  on  the  part 
advertised  for  him,  and  subsequently  performed  another  not 
mentioned  in  the  papers.  In  an  embroidered  gown,  assisted  by 
two  priests,  he  perfumed  the  altar,  candlesticks,  and  images  by 
shaking  a  censer  among  them.  A  country  bishop,  with  a  five- 
inch  cross  on  his  breast  and  a  skull-cap  on,  stood  at  one  side, 
and  to  him  the  nuncio  swung  the  smoking  vessel,  receiving  a 
smiling  inclination  of  the  head  in  acknowledgment  of  the  official 
compliment. 

At  one  part  of  the  performance  two  men  stepped  behind  Be- 
dini,  and  stooping,  raised  his  skirts  to  the  small  of  his  back, 
then,  after  a  pause,  threw  them  over  his  head,  and  bore  the  gar 
ment  away.  He  then  stood  in  a  cream-tinted  gown,  gathered 
round  his  waist  with  a  cord.  By-and-by  the  disrobers  reap 
peared,  stood  by  him  till  he  untied  the  ends,  tucked  up  the 
skirts,  and  whisked  them  in  like  manner  away,  leaving  him  in 
a  cambric  camisa.  A  little  while,  and  the  spoilers  came  and 
stripped  him  of  that  also !  I  almost  expected  to  see  him  in 
bun0,  but  he  now  shone  forth  in  a  crimson  tight  cloak  or  coat 
that  would  have  given  his  valets  some  trouble  to  get  off.  The 
place  was  not  suitable  for  equestrian  exercises,  but  those  changes 
of  apparel  were  very  suggestive  of  a  popular  performance  of 
circus-riders. 

The  performances  ended,  many  left,  but  I  learned  that  two 
young  slaves,  given  a  few  days  ago  to  the  Italian  friars,  were  to 
be  baptized,  and  their  transfer  formally  ratified.  Capuchin 
names  were  given  them — Bernard  and  Bernardine.  Till  mat 
ters  were  ready,  the  nuncio,  as  if  desirous  of  continuing  his  de 
votions,  came  and  knelt  near  the  front  bench  by  the  spectators. 
He  had  no  book,  but  closed  his  hands  and  looked  on  them. 
Meanwhile,  the  sacristan,  a  brisk  old  man,  got  into  a  spicy  dis 
pute  with  one  of  the  monks  about  the  proper  passages  to  be 
read  on  the  occasion.  First  one  took  the  book,  then  the  other, 
and  to  end  the  matter  they  rushed  to  Bedini.  The  eyes  of  the 
friar  glistened  apparently  with  anger,  the  sacristan  drew  down 
the  corners  of  his  mouth,  and  both,  as  the  still  kneeling  nuncio 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  321 

turned  over  the  leaves,  rolled  out  their  arguments.  He  seemed 
himself  at  a  nonplus,  when  the  zealous  sacristan  fairly  snatched 
the  book  and  pointed  to  the  appropriate  captions.  Familiar 
with  all  usages  respecting  slaves,  the  inexperienced  foreigners 
had  to  yield  to  him. 

The  defeated  friar  went  out  and  returned,  leading  two  lads, 
about  ten  and  eleven  years  of  age,  accompanied  with  their  own 
er,  whose  head  was  of  a  singular  conformation.  The  occipital 
region  descended  down  his  neck,  and  being  bare,  appeared  like 
a  tumor  overhanging  his  vest  collar.  After  conversing  again 
with  the  friar,  the  nuncio  rose  from  his  knees ;  the  sacristan 
brought  in  a  scarf,  the  nuncio  kissed  it,  stooped  his  head,  and 
the  friar  threw  it  over  his  neck.  The  helots  were  now  placed 
before  him,  when  it  became  evident  that  he  did  not  comprehend 
the  formula,  for  twice  the  sacristan  took  the  volume  and  turned 
to  the  appropriate  pages.  Bedini  now  crossed  the  air  over  the 
boys'  heads,  read,  then  put  his  face  to  theirs,  and  breathed  three 
times  on  each ;  read  again,  stopped,  and,  putting  out  his  tongue, 
brushed  off  a  portion  of  its  moisture  with  his  thumb,  ordered 
Bernard  to  thrust  forth  his  organ  of  taste,  and  transferred  to  it, 
by  a  dab,  a  portion  of  his  own  saliva.  Bernardine  was  told  to 
expose  his  flexile  member,  but  the  lad  was  confounded,  and 
kept  it  concealed  within  his  teeth.  Not  till  the  angry  sacristan 
shook  him  could  a  portion  of  the  fluid  secreted  by  his  excellen 
cy's  salivary  glands  be  got  into  the  little  fellow's  mouth.  With 
the  same  holy  spittle  were  their  breasts,  necks,  and  collar-bones 
anointed. 

Entirely  novel  to  me,  the  ceremonies  increased  in  interest. 
The  nuncio  changed  his  scarf  for  one  of  another  color,  took  from 
a  saucer  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  rubbed  it  on  the  lads'  foreheads, 
upper  lips,  and,  to  remove  the  insipidness  of  the  saliva,  as  ] 
supposed,  their  tongues  also.  A  friar  next  produced  a  small 
morocco  case,  containing  three  minute  oil-bottles,  with  stoppers, 
to  the  under  sides  of  which  minikin  spoons  were  attached. 
With  a  piece  of  cotton  wool,  on  which  the  sacristan  emptied 
one  of  the  spoons,  his  excellency  rubbed  the  neophytes'  fore 
heads,  lips,  breast-bones,  and  napes  of  their  necks.  To  facili 
tate  the  last  operation,  the  sacristan  roughly  bent  down  their 
heads,  and,  with  a  promptitude  that  must  Lave  caused  them 

X 


322  SKETCHES   OF 

pain,  a  spoonful  from  another  vial  and  another  sponge  was 
transferred  to  the  same  places  and  by  the  same  processes. 

The  lads  were  next  led  to  a  table,  brought  in  for  the  occa 
sion,  on  which  were  a  large  tray  and  a  long-necked  vase,  both 
of  silver.  A  Capuchin  took  Bernard,  and  called  on  his  owne- 
to  lay  his  hand  on  the  lad's  shoulder  while  the  nuncio  read 
some  particular  passage.  This  was  done,  and  the  boy's  head 
bent  over  the  tray  for  his  eminence  to  pour  water  from  the 
pitcher  on  it.  The  liquid  rolled  off  in  drops  like  rain  from 
ducks'  feathers,  but  the  inexorable  sacristan  was  not  to  be  thus 
defeated.  Holding  the  head  down  on  the  tray  with  one  hand, 
he  took  the  end  of  a  towel,  rubbed  the  fluid  in,  and  so  energet 
ically  as  to  draw  smiles  from  other  faces  besides  mine.  As 
soon  as  Bernardine  was  served  the  same  way,  the  performance 
was  complete. 

Seeing  nothing  of  the  relic  that  had  been  advertised,  I  made 
out  to  ask  the  picture-man,  who  still  sat  at  the  receipt  of  cus 
tom.  His  reply  was,  "  Quatros  horas  da  tarde."  As  I  could 
not  return  at  four  in  the  afternoon,  I  never  learned  what  it  was 
— whether  a  bone,  lock  of  hair,  a  toe,  a  finger,  or  a  foot. 

On  leaving,  I  stepped  for  a  moment  into  the  vestry.  The 
clouds  on  either  side  of  the  Virgin's  shoe-sole  were  enlarged, 
and  the  central  parts  tinted  as  with  bistre.  The  chief  of  the 
Capuchins  was  busy,  as  on  a  former  visit,  selecting  linen  out  of 
drawers,  holding  the  pieces  up  to  the  light,  rejecting  some,  tuck 
ing  others  under  his  arm,  and  then  vanishing  toward  the  im 
ages,  his  bare  feet  in  slip-shod,  clattering  tamancos. 

28th.  Yesterday  an  old  lady,  long  confined  by  a  painful  dis 
order,  insisted  on  being  taken  to  Priscilliana's  shrine,  having 
wrought  herself  into  the  belief  of  the  saint's  ability  and  willing 
ness  to  help  her.  The  exertion  and  excitement  were  too  much 
for  her.  She  was  carried  from  the  church  exceedingly  ill,  and 

H ,  who  knows  her,  says  her  recovery  from  the  shock  is 

doubtful. 

A  deputy  from  Ceara  spent  the  evening  with  us.  The  fam 
ine  now  raging  in  that  province,  he  says,  is  worse  than  as  de 
scribed  in  the  papers — too  horrible,  he  says,  to  be  described. 
As  with  previous  calamities  of  the  kind,  the  drought  has  killed 
all  vegetation.  Cattle,  the  great  staple  of  the  province,  have 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  323 

perished,  and  next,  men,  women,  and  children.  In  extensive 
districts  not  a  pint  of  water  was  to  be  had.  Kivers  were  dried 
up,  and  in  towns  where  it  was  usually  in  plenty  near  the  sur 
face,  wells  had  to  be  deepened  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet.  All 
who  coulcl  flew  to  the  coast  for  relief,  and  thousands  perished 
by  the  way.  Before  ho.  left  the  capital,  twenty-six  thousand 
persons  had  applied  for  bread.  .  In  dealing  forth  small  meas 
ures  of  mandioca,  maize,  and  beans,  a  hundred  hands  would  be 
stretched  out  to  snatch  at  them.  Indians — even  Indian  moth 
ers — brought  in  their  boys  and  sold  them  to  the  navy  for  food. 
Previously  it  was  difficult  to  get  an  Indian  lad  under  seventy 
milreis,  but  now  their  parents,  having  nothing  for  them  or  them 
selves  to  eat,  freely  offered  them  for  ten.  The  drought  was  fol 
lowed  by  locusts  that  consumed  every  particle  of  remaining  veg 
etation.  Pestilence  succeeded  the  locusts,  and  now  yellow  fe 
ver  is  sweeping  off  its  victims  at  a  fearful  rate. 

Private  charity  had  become  exhausted,  the  government  had 
done  nothing  or  next  to  nothing,  and  no  sister  province  except 
Maranham  had  sent  them  aid.  A  subscription  was  begun  in 
Rio,  but  it  fell  through.  Their  representative  is  disgusted  with 
the  apathy  manifested  by  the  Chambers.  "There  are  plenty 
to  talk,  but  none  to  act.  Words_are  women,  deeds  are  men. 
The  only  tiling  to  bring  them  to  their  senses  is  to  get  up  a 
revolution."  There  is  a  bitter  feeling  at  the  north  against  the 
government  for  spending  two  or  three  hundred  thousand  milreis 
on  illuminations  and  trumpery  pageants  here  to  flatter  the  young 
emperor  and  his  wife  on  their  return,  and  millions  on  his  jun 
keting  .down  south,  while  so  many  are  perishing  for  lack  of  life's 
first  necessaries. 

The  people  of  Ceara,  he  admits,  are  improvident  as  Indians 
— not  one  whit  better.  Granaries  stored  with  one  or  two  years' 
provisions  would  prevent  these  recurring  famines,  but  the  peo 
ple  have  no  thought  of,  and  no  care  for,  to-morrow. 

Indians  appear  to  be  enslaved  as  much  almost  as  negroes, 
and  are  bought -and  sold  like  them.  In  Bio  a  large  number  are 
thus  made  merchandise  of.  Of  this  fact  I  was  not  aware  till 
this  evening. 


324  SKETCHES   OF 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Winter  and  Western  Islanders. — Brazilian  Names  :  their  Derivation  and  Import. 
— Primitive  Patronymics. — Combinations. — Names  in  connection  with  Profes 
sions. — Names  of  Ships. — Pigs  and  Pig-stealing. — Invitation  to  Tea. 

May  28.  Heavy  rains  and  streets  impassable  except  to 
quadrupeds  and  colored  bipeds,  who  happily  use  no  nether  gar 
ments.  There  they  go !  a  troop  of  mules  bound  up  the  mount 
ains.  See !  their  ears  are  not  now  erect,  for  in  that  position 
the  falling  floods  would  fill  them.  Turned  back  and  pendent, 
all  is  dry  within  as  the  contents  of  the  two  hairy  sacks  each 
beast  is  laden  with.  Yon  dark  nymph  crying  oranges  and  ba 
nanas,  with  a  bunch  of  rosemary  in  one  hand,  is  coming  over  to 
this  side.  Her  wide  and  shallow  basket  is  a  colander,  and  un 
der  it  she  a  fountain  goddess  in  the  midst  of  falling  jets — an 
Ethiopian  Venus  in  a  shower-bath.  Though  lithe  and  well 
formed,  she  is  not  a  Minas — her  garments  had  not  then  been  so 
brief  nor  few.  The  left  half  of  her  bust  is  wholly  nude,  and 
the  jagged  skirts  of  her  only  vestment  are  short  as  a  figurante's. 
Look !  or  rather  don't,  for  she  raises  them  as  she  comes  wading 
through  the  torrent  in  the  gutter.  There,  on  the  side-walk, 
now  she  splashing  treads — an  itinerant  priestess  of  Pomona ! 
Her  spirits  are  not  drowned  at  any  rate,  for  that  shriek  of  mirth 
is  hers.  She  is  bantering  the  muleteer  as  he  stolidly  paces  in 
the  rear  of  his  charge. 

Here  come  again  those  eternal  sand-carts,  and  now  doubly 
laden,  one  half  with  water.  How  the  poor  overwrought  and 
lacerated  animals  strain  to  keep,  and  hardly  keep,  the  wheels  in 
motion.  These  Western  Islanders,  industrious  as  they  are, 
should  have,  or  be  made  to  have,  compassion  on  their  beasts. 
Digging  down  hills  by  contract,  they  labor  every  day  and  half 
of  every  night.  Neither  rains,  nor  heat,  nor  even  darkness 
stops  them ;  no,  nor  saints  nor  Sabbath-days,  so  anxious  are 
they  to  make  up  the  number  of  milreis  their  moderate  wishes 
centre  on.  Observe,  they  go  without  shoes,  stockings,  coat,  or 
vest,  and  this  is  winter  too.  Winter !  how  like  glorious  sum- 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  325 

mer  in  our  latitudes !  Forests  and  fields  in  bloom,  silver 
streams  meandering  among  natural  bowers,  and  birds  and  but 
terflies  as  busy  as  at  this  season  in  the  North. 

But  we  must  find  something  else  to  do  than  gazing  through 
the  window.  Here  is  the  O^amento,  or  Brazilian  Budget  for 
1847—8,  just  issued  from  the  government  press,  exhibiting  the 
receipts  and  expenditures  of  the  empire,  salaries  of  the  emper 
or,  officers  of  state,  and  a  list  of  about  2000  pensioners.  On 
turning  over  the  leaves,  names  occur  remarkable  for  their  literal 
import,  others  for  their  deep  religious  hue,  and  some  for  their 
singular  combinations.  As  there  is  no  going  out  to-day,  sup 
pose  we  devote  an  hour  to  this  collection,  for  names  every  where 
supply  material  for  curious  speculations. 

As  in  olden  times,  alphabetical  lists  are  those  of  individual, 
not  of  family  appellations.  Thus  letters  in  the  post-office  are 
advertised  as  with  us,  but,  like  this  pension-list,  the  names  be 
gin  with  Agathas  and  Annas,  proceed  to  Claras,  Floras,  Hen- 
riques,  Manoels,  and  so  on  to  Pedros,  Theresas,  Veronicas,  and 
Zepharinas. 

Names  derived  from  personal  qualities,  occupations,  imple 
ments,  animals,  trees,  plants,  etc.,  are  common  to  most  people. 
None  retain  finer  traces  of  them,  and  none  have  more  disfigured 
them  by  legendary  trash  than  the  Portuguese.  As  it  is  the  be 
lief  that  beatified  saints  are  gratified  by  naming  children  after 
them,  Pedros  and  Joses  prevail  among  boys,  while  Annas  and 
Marys  carry  the  day  with  the  girls.  Then,  as  the  mother  of 
Christ  is  worshiped  in  many  characters,  nearly  all  Marias  have 
agnomens  expressive  of  popular  personations  of  the  Madonna. 
Another  custom  is  to  fasten  a  cluster  of  names  on  a  child  in 
the  hope  that  it  will  attain  the  virtues  of  each  celestial  sponsor. 
With  this  view  masculine  prenomens  and  agnomens  are  confer 
red  on  females,  and  feminine  names  not  withheld  from  males. 

Of  primitive  patronymics,  chiefly  drawn  from  nature,  the  fol 
lowing  are  but  a  tithe  of  examples  that  might  be  given.  The 
prenomens,  mostly  religious,  are  for  the  sake  of  brevity  dropped, 
save  one :  Angelica  Dead  Branch,  Amelia  Quiet,  Imogine  Pil 
chard,  Anne  of  the  Willow-tree  Kemedy,  Kose  Lamprey,  Fran 
ces  the  Stammerer,  Clara  of  the  Fire-pans,  Flora  Scourge  of 
the  House,  Claudine  Little  Fish,  Emilia  of  the  Saucer,  Maria 


326  SKETCHES   OF 

of  the  Fountains,  Charlotte  House-leek,  Louisa  Emancipated  of 
France,  Louisa  of  the  Pen,  Good  Shepherdess  of  the  Coast  of 
Navarre,  Joaquim  the  Sucking-pig  of  Almeida,  Mary  of  the 
Olive-tree  Beautiful,  Maria  Crow  of  Almeida,  Isabella  of  the 
Great  Beard,  Isabella  Milfoil,  Barbara  of  the  Door-bolt,  John 
of  the  Axe,  Florence  of  the  Caldron,  Anthony  Hawk  of  Mer 
chantmen,  Innocencia  the  Torch  of  Arruda,  Joaquina  of  the 
White  Castle. 

Combinations  of  Primitive  Surnames. — Lewis  Egg  Chicken 
Thick,  Catharine  of  the  Wolf  and  Bramble,  Mary  of  Bouquets 
and  Saucer,  John  of  Apple-tree  Wedge,  Jane  of  Gentility  and 
Snows,  Mary  of  the  Partridge  and  Brook,  Chicken  of  Mori  and 
Falcon,  Barbara  of  the  Latch  and  Spider,  Frances  Cockles  and 
Snow,  Jose  Leather-strap  and  Quarry,  Manoel  Sucking-pig  and 
Banner,  Anne  Woe  to  Alegar.  A  lady  at  my  elbow  is  Maria 
Saucer  Babbit,  and  a  doctor  writes  himself  Fortegato — Strong 
Cat. 

Lay  and  Religious  combined. — Pine-tree  of  Jesus,  Concep 
tion  and  Rabbit,  Assumption  and  Thorn-bush,  Purification  and 
Male  Partridge,  Purity  and  Sparrow-hawk,  Jesus  Flowering 
Pink,  Blacksmith  of  the  Trinity,  Garden  Nun  of  Macedon,  Jus 
tus  of  the  Saints  of  Portugal,  Cross-bowman  of  the  Saints. 

Wholly  Religious. — Mary  of  Holy  Love,  Rose  of  Concep 
tion,  Kose  of  the  Holy  Ghost,  Catharine  of  the  White  Saints, 
John  of  the  Holy  Rock,  Joaquina  of  the  Brave  Jesus,  Anne  of 
Placidity  of  the  Heart  of  Jesus,  Mary  of  Light,  of  the  Maternity, 
etc.,  etc.  The  washerwoman  of  our  family  is  Maria  Hose  of 
Jesus  and  of  the  Holy  Ghost. 

We  must  not  forget  that  this  mania  for  Scripture  names  has 
not  always  been  confined  to  one  sect.  A  Protestant  type  of 
the  disease  was  rather  prevalent  in  England  during  the  Com 
monwealth  ;  and  of  lay  patronymics,  there  are  doubtless  those 
current  among  ourselves  curious  as  any  given  here.  It  is  only 
when  they  present  themselves  in  a  foreign  dress  that  they  ex 
cite  surprise ;  strip  them,  and  most  will  turn  out  old  acquaint 
ances,  if  not  near  relatives. 

Names  in  connection  with  Professions — examples  from  the 
Rio  Directory. — Jose  Maria  of  the  See  is  a  soap-boiler;  Jose 
Jesus  makes  spurs  and  amulets  ;  Sabina  of  the  Wood  of  Naza- 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  327 

reth  is  a  silversmith;  St. Francis  Anthony. Caesar  sells  paliter- 
ros ;  John  of  Jesus  and  the  Olive  keeps  a  liquor-shop ;  John 
Baptist  is  a  gilder ;  Francis  Stream  of  Holy  Pork  [or  sausage] 
a  pyrotechnist ;  Michael  of  the  Nativity  a  currier ;  Manuel  Je 
sus  a  hatter ;  Joseph  Mary  of  the  Trinity  a  carpenter ;  Widow 
Lizard  sells  tobacco  ;  Matthew  of  Light  sells  washing-blocks ; 
Joseph  of  the  Pine-tree  Saints  is  a  coppersmith  ;  Louis  Sylvan 
Milk  sells  city  wines ;  Joaquim  of  the  Saints  deals  in  jerked 
beef;  Baron  of  Good  Venture  is  a  shipping-merchant;  Jose 
Mother  of  Gods  sells  cigars  ;  Benjamin  Country  Sheep  is  a  sec 
ond  lieutenant ;  Simon  of  Nazareth  is  a  gunsmith ;  Antonio  of 
the  Sacred  Paces  keeps  a  livery-stable ;  JMichael  Archangel  of 
Miranda  is  a  paper-hanger ;  Vicente  Dresser  of  Forest-trees  is 
a  barber;  Jose  Bookworm  of  the  Saints  makes  combs;  Augus 
tus  Cresar  Orange  is  a  custom-house  clerk,  and  Antonio  Jose  of 
the  Holy  Plow-tail  Handle  a  secretary. 

In  the  principal  theatre  we  find  Antonio  Thomas  the  Palmer, 
manager;  John  Araujo  of  the  Holy  Spirit,  box-keeper;  Maria 
JoselS'u.nes,  prompter;  Antonio  of  the  Olive,  bill-poster;  Joseph 
of  the  Nativity,  and  Joaquim  Observer  of  Santa  Rita,  scene-shift 
ers;  Joana  Rose  of  Jesus,  figurante,  etc.,  etc.  Most  of  the  per 
formers,  and  among  them  B.  J.  Ferdinand  Caqueirada — literal 
ly,  a  blow  from  a  broken  pot — have  rooms  in  Ruas  do  Espirito 
Santo,  Concei9§o,  and  Sacramento. 

If  there  were  morals  in  words  and  virtue  in  names,  occupants 
of  the  Southern  Continent  would  be  superlatively  happy ;  but 
neither  earthly  nor  heavenly  appellations  make  men  wise  or 
good.  The  police  reports  expose  daily  the  association  of  sacred 
names  with  the  vilest  passions. 

Esmeria  Maria  da  Concei9§o  and  Anna  de  Jesus  were  im 
prisoned  yesterday  for  street  brawling,  and  Saturnina  Maria  da 
Coneei9ao  for  being  drunk.  The  other  day,  Monica  Maria  da 
Paixao,  Luisa  Teresa  Rosa,  Zepharino  do  Espirito  Santo,  Jose 
Maria  dos  Anjos,  and  Antonio  Luiz  dos  Santos,  were  arrested 
for  physical  offenses  ;  and  again  :  Generous  Louiza  of  the  Con 
ception,  Maria  of  do.,  and  Jose  of  the  Saints,  were  committed  for 
fighting,  Jose  Dionysius  of  the  Mercies  for  wounding,  and  the 
mulattoes  Lawrence  Jose  Alves  and  Jacintho  Joseph  of  the  Holy 
Ghost  for  necromancy. 


328  SKETCHES   OF 

Names  of  Ships. — By  running  over  the  marine  columns  of 
newspapers,  the  piety  of  ship-builders  and  owners  is  apparent 
in  the  names  of  their  vessels.  Political  and  moral  appellations 
occur,  but  the  bulk  are  named  from  the  calendar  and  monkish 
records.  A  few  specimens  must  suffice : 

Triumph  of  Brazil,  Temptation,  Good  Jesus  of  Alem  [com 
mon],  Concei9ao  [very  common],  Holy  Cross,  Great  Courage, 
New  St.  Francis,  Holy  Martyrs,  Our  Lady  of  the  Birth,  Segun- 
da  Conceicao  de  Maria,  The  Pleasure  of  God,  Protector  of  An 
gels,  The  Holy  Ghost,  Allelulia,  Shining  St.  Anthony,  Protec 
tress  of  Angels,  Asylum  of  Virtue,  Conception  of  the  Queen  of 
Angels. 

Change  of  Names. — Nuns  and  monks  cast  their  old  ones 
away,  and  every  cardinal,  when  elected  to  the  papacy,  assumes 
a  fresh  one.  This  custom  begun  with  Sergius,  and  with  some 
reason,  for  Os  Porci — pig's  face — was  any  thing  but  a  suitable 
appellation  for  the  holy  father. 

Many  Portuguese  patronymics  indicate  not  simply  a  remote, 
but  an  Oriental  origin,  especially  some  of  those  derived  from 
animals,  fowls,  fruits,  domestic  implements,  hunting,  the  bow, 
etc.  Of  later  names,  Sylvan  Silversmith  may  be  one,  but  it  can 
hardly  be  posterior  to  the  epoch  of  the  Iliad.  Good  Venture  and 
Good  Success  are  of  high  antiquity.  The  latter  was  the  name 
of  Aristotle,  which  in  Greek  signifies  the  same  thing.  Some, 
that  appear  of  monkish  origin,  are  of  anterior  dates.  Silva  is 
probably  one.  It  signifies  a  shirt  or  cloth  of  wire  worn  by  peni 
tents  ;  but  self-torture  goes  back  into  the  earliest  times.  Baal's 
.priests  encouraged  it.  So  with  Romeiro,  a  palmer.  It  prob 
ably  dates  from  times  long  preceding  the  Crusades,  as  pilgrim 
ages  to  saints  and  holy  places  were  made  by  the  ancient  hea 
then. 

The  original  Senhor  Sucking  Pig  may  have  received  his 
name  from  resembling  in  infancy  one  of  those  younglings  in 
vigorously  draining  his  mother's  breasts,  or  from  an  eagerness 
to  devour  them  in  after  life.  The  families  of  Sausages  are  clear 
ly  derived  from  one  with  carnivorous  appetites.  The  great  an 
cestor  of  Joaquim  and  Joaquina  Holy  Pork  was  possibly  con 
victed  of  feeding  his  family  at  the  expense  of  a  monastery. 
Hogs  were  common  presents  to  ancient  friars,  and  were  then 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  329 

considered  sacred,  but  that  stealing  them  was  not  a  rare  sin 
there  is  abundant  proof.  Some  convents  had  not  less  than  two 
thousand,  the  feeding  of  which  cost  them  nothing,  "  as  they 
were  privileged  to  range  through  the  streets,  markets,  and  even 
private  houses,  scarcely  any  person  daring  to  check  them,  be 
cause  they  were  considered  the  Lord's  swine''1  To  save  their 
pigs,  woes  were  denounced  by  monks  on  those  that  stole  them, 
and  examples  are  given  of  men  dying  raving  mad  after  dining 
on  stolen  pork.  Let  us  hope  that  the  first  Senhor  Holy  Pork 
sanctified  his  theft  according  to  the  proverb,  "  Steal  a  pig  and 
give  the  feet  in  alms" — an  instructive  saying,  for  which  we  are 
indebted  to  his  or  some  other  pig-purloiner's  piety. 

With  the  reader's  leave  we  will  close  the  subject  of  names, 
and  the  rather  as  Senhor  Pompilio,  a  young  gentleman  from 
Congo,  has  for  some  moments  been  bowing  before  us,  and  smil 
ing  as  his  countrymen  only  can  smile.  A  Para  fly-flap  in  his 
left  hand,  he  points  the  forefinger  of  the  other  over  his  shoulder, 
anon  brings  it  point  blank  at  our  mouth,  and  then  whisks  it 
back  into  his  own.  Next  he  makes  a  species  of  courtesy,  waves 
the  scarlet  feathers  toward  an  inner  door,  and  seeing  us  at 
length  drop  the  pen,  his  eyes  swim  in  joy  at  the  success  of  his 
invitation  for  us  to  join  the  ladies  at  tea. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

St.  Anthony  of  Padua  :  his  Monastery  and  Miracles. — His  Rank  and  Salary  as  a 
Soldier.— Shameful  Treatment  of  his  Images.— Feast  of  the  Holy  Ghost.— Auc 
tions  and  Fire-works,  etc. 

WE  spent  the  best  part  of  two  days  in  an  irregular  pile  of 
three-story  buildings,  located  on  one  side  of  a  hill,  dedicated  to 
and  owned  by  the  most  popular  of  Brazilian  minor  divinities. 
The  ascent,  wide  and  paved,  winds  up  at  the  rear  of  the  Cario- 
co  Fountain.  Here  and  there  a  slave  was  asleep,  reclining 
against  the  dead  wall  on  either  hand,  while  almost  every  where 
were  revolting  nuisances  committed  by  them. 

There  are  several  Antonios  in  the  calendar,  and  one  is  often 
mistaken  for  the  other.  He  who  had  such  amusing  personal 
conflicts  with  Satan  was  of  Egypt,  and  not  a  few  of  his  acts 


330  SKETCHES   OF 

and  powers  have  been  ascribed  to  his  namesakes.  It  was  he 
who,  centuries  after  his  death,  began  to  cure  people  of  a  disease 
not  heard  of  while  he  lived — one  that,  from  his  success  in  treat 
ing,  still  bears  his  name.  He  only  should  be  pictured  with  fire 
and  a  pig — not,  as  the  wicked  might  surmise,  to  indicate  a  fa 
vorite  monastic  dish.  The  early  appearance  of  erysipelas  in 
Europe,  association  of  the  saint  and  pigs  with  it,  etc.,  will  be 
found  accounted  for  in  the  subjoined  extract  from  Gabriel 
d'Emilliane's  History  of  the  Monastical  Orders,  1693: 

"  In  the  year  1089,  a  contagious  sickness,  called  the  Sacred 
Fire,  a  kind  of  very  dangerous  leprosie,  having  spread  itself  into 
several  parts  of  Europe,  those  of  the  Province  of  Vienna,  in 
France,  had,  at  last,  recourse  to  the  Eelics  of  St.  Antony  the 
Egyptian.  They  say  that  whoever  did  call  upon  him  was  de 
livered  from  the  Sacred  Fire ;  and  contrariwise,  those  who  blas 
phemed  or  took  the  name  of  St.  Antony  in  vain,  were  immedi 
ately,  by  the  saint's  unmerciful  vengeance,  delivered  up  to  it. 
This  gave  occasion  to  Gaston  Frank,  in  company  with  some 
other  persons,  to  institute,  in  the  year  1095,  the  Religion  [Or 
der]  of  St.  Antony,  whose  principal  care  it  was  to  serve  those 
who  were  tormented  with  the  Sacred  Fire.  They  represent  St. 
Antony  with  a  fire  kindled  at  his  side  to  signifie  that  he  deliv 
ers  people  from  the  Sacred  Fire.  They  paint  a  hog  near  him 
as  a  sign  that  he  cures  beasts  of  all  diseases  ;  and  to  honor  him 
in  several  places,  a  hog  is  kept  at  common  charges,  and  called 
St.  Antony's  Hog,  for  which  they  [the  people]  have  great  vene 
ration.  Many  will  have  St.  Antony's  picture  on  the  walls  of 
their  houses,  hoping  by  that  to  be  preserved  from  the  Plague. 
And  the  Italians,  who  did  not  know  the  true  signification  of 
the  fire  painted  at  his  side,  thought  that  he  preserved  houses 
also  from  being  burnt,  and  they  call  upon  him  on  such  occa 
sions.  As  for  the  Fryars,  they  know  so  well  how  to  make  use 
of  the  power  of  their  St.  Antony,  that,  when  they  go  a  begging, 
if  one  does  refuse  what  they  ask  for,  they  threaten  immediately 
to  make  the  Sacred  Fire  to  fall  upon  him ;  therefore  the  poor 
country  people,  to  avoid  the  menaces  and  witchcrafts  of  these 
monks,  present  them  every  year  with  a  good  fat  hog  apiece. 
Some  Cardinals  and  Prelates  endeavored  to  persuade  Pope  Paul 
III.  to  abolish  these  wretched  Begging  Fryars,  but  they  could 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL. 


331 


not  compass  their  good  design  ;  and  these  Monks  do  subsist  yet 
to  this  day  in  several  places,  though  the  sickness  of  St.  Antony's 
Fire  be  now  very  rare." 

This  old  establishment  contains  good  specimens  of  carving : 
and  the  chapel,  without  a  tithe  of  the  gilt  that  glistens  in  oth 
ers,  is  a  gallery  of  paintings,  which,  if  not  miracles  of  art,  are 
exemplifications  of  the  miraculous.  They  may  not  equal  the 
best  productions  of  Raphael,  or  of  Annibal  Carracci  of  Bologna, 
but  they  are  attested  copies  of  the  works  of  an  individual  deem 
ed  vastly  more  gifted  than  either,  viz.,  Anthony  of  Padua. 

The  plan  of  the  chapel  is  two  parallelograms  of  unequal  width 
(the  smaller  one  the  chancel)  joined  end  to  end.  The  entrance 
is  at  the  wide  part,  only  half  of  which  is  appropriated  to  the  au 
dience.  We  are  standing  at  the  door,  and  see !  yonder  at  the 
opposite  extremity  is  Anthony  over  the  high  altar  facing  us. 


ST.   ANTHONY    OF    PADUA. 


Two  minor  shrines  are  near  the  junction  of  the  chancel  with  the 
chapel.  One  is  occupied  by  a  female,  and  opposite  to  her  the 
original  image  of  Black  Benedict  stands.  Large  as  life,  good 


332  SKETCHES    OF 

looking,  his  crisp  hair  shorn  a  la  tonsure,  he  bends  over  the 
prone  baby  in  his  arms,  and  is  hushing  it  to  sleep. 

For  half  an  hour  we  were  alone.  No  person  entered  except 
a  slave  belonging  to  the  monastery,  and  he  merely  peeped  in. 
I  endeavored  to  take  a  full-length  portrait  of  the  patron  of  the 
place — a  stout-built  gentleman,  rising  five  feet,  and  draped  in  a 
black  gown,  braced  round  his  waist  by  a  tasseled  cord.  No 
other  article  of  his  proper  dress  is  visible,  but  he  is  loaded  with 
accessories.  Curving  outward  his  left  arm,  he  grasps  with  the 
hand  a  closed  book,  the  cover  of  which  constitutes  a  pedestal 
for  his  baby,  without  which  he  is  never  seen.  It  is  a  pretty 
thing,  resting  with  one  foot  on  the  volume,  the  other  in  the  air. 
Its  stature  is  fifteen  inches.  It  wears  pantalettes,  a  white  silk 
frock  with  sash,  and  gold-laced  tucks ;  tiny  frills  go  round  its 
neck,  a  crown  is  on  its  head,  a  ball  in  one  hand,  and  in  the 
other  an  artificial  nosegay.  Between  Anthony's  right  arm  and 
breast  a  cross-headed  staff  shoots  upward,  and  with  it  a  bou 
quet.  Thus  far  there  is  nothing  very  remarkable.  But  in  his 
right  hand  is,  what  I  first  took  for  a  walking-cane,  a  marshal's 
baton,  over  his  shoulders  a  broad  red  military  sash,  on  his 
breast  the  star  or  cross  of  some  militant  order,  and,  as  if  to 
mark  still  more  emphatically  the  hero,  his  brows  are  encircled 
with  a  wreath,  in  the  manner  of  a  Roman  conqueror. 

"What  does  that  mean?"  I  exclaimed.  "Mean?"  replied 
H—  — ;  "  why,  that  he  is  a  Knight  Commander  of  the  Military 
Order  of  Portugal  and  Brazil,  belongs  to  the  regular  army, 
is  commissioned  as  lieutenant  colonel,  and  receives  his  pay 
monthly  the  same  as  every  other  officer."  "Come,"  said  I, 
"  no  poetry.  Anthony  a  soldier  and  commander  of  a  living  re 
giment  !  It  won't — "  At  this  moment  a  monk  came  in  sud 
denly  through  a  side  door  close  to  where  we  stood.  Making  a 
reverence  to  the  saint  by  bringing  one  knee  nearly  to  the  floor, 
he  turned  inquiringly  to  us.  Under  thirty,  fat,  rather  short, 
but  of  a  handsome  mien — a  fair  specimen  of  a  Brazilian — my 
companion  spoke,  and  told  him  I  was  a  stranger  desirous  of 
going  over  the  saint's  establishment.  With  a  dubious  glance 
at  the  memorandum-book  and  pencil  in  my  hand,  and  then  at 
myself,  he  asked,  "  Is  he  pious  ?"  The  answer  was  satisfac 
tory  ;  and,  sure  enough,  what  H—  -  had  said  of  the  martial 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  333 

offices,  dignities,  and  salary  of  the  saint  was  all  true.  The  monk 
spoke  of  him  in  the  character  of  a  general,  and  I  asked,  "  Why 
give  him  that  title  if  he  is  but  a  colonel  ?"  The  answer  was 
ready  :  according  to  Brazilian  etiquette,  every  Knight  of  the 
Grand  Cross  is  entitled  to  the  insignia  and  honors  of  the  highest 
rank ;  hence,  in  common  with  his  brother  knights,  Lieutenant- 
colonel  Anthony,  though  wearing  neither  stockings  nor  shoes, 
is  complimented  with  the  badges  and  dignities  of  a  general. 

We  now  turned  to  the  paintings.  While  gazing  on  one  rath 
er  intently,  I  risked  my  reputation  with  the  monk  by  inadvert 
ently  turning  my  back  on  the  general,  a  piece  of  forgetfulness 
deemed  incompatible  with  true  devotion.  I  ought  to  have  been 
on  my  guard,  inasmuch  as  at  another  church  I  had  been  re 
proved  for  a  similar  offense.  The  subjects  are  incidents  from 
the  life  and  deeds  of  Anthony.  I  shall  notice  a  few  only. 

1.  At  the  mouth  of  a  well,  over  which  a  chain  and  pulley  are 
suspended,  stands  an  enraptured  monk.     He  has  just  raised  the 
bucket,  and  with  it  a  small  image  of  the  saint.     The  story  is 
this :   The  brother  of  a  monastery,  whose  duty  it  was  to  draw 
water,  lost  the  bucket  from  the   chain.     Distressed,  and  not 
knowing  what  to  do,  for  the  well  was  very  deep,  the  saint  at 
length  inspired  him.     Drawing  from  his  bosom  an  image  of 
the  general,  he  sent  it  down.     On  reaching  the  water,  it  caught 
hold  of  the  floating  bucket,  properly  hooked  it  to  the  chain,  and 
rose  with  it,  to  the  delight  of  the  lay  brother  and  the  edification 
of  the  brotherhood. 

2.  The  saint,  acting  the  part  of  a  surgeon,  is  fixing  the  foot 
of  a  living  person  to  the  limb  from  which  it  had  been  severed. 
A  young  man,  said  our  cicerone,  once  kicked  his  mother.     He 
went  out  and  met  a  stranger,  who  startled  him  by  saying,  "  He 
that  kicks  his  mother  should  lose  his  foot."     Conviction  seized 
the  culprit ;  he  returned  home  and  chopped  off  the  offending 
member.     His  injured  mother  came  in,  began  to  cry,  and  before 
he  bled  to  death,  picked  up  the  foot  and  took  her  son  with  her 
in  search  of  the  stranger.     He  was  close  by,  and  recognized  as 
St.  Anthony.    Seeing  the  youth  repentant,  he  immediately  heal 
ed  him.     The  foot,  in  drawing  nigh  to  its  proper  place,  sprung 
out  of  the  saint's  hands  like  the  keeper  to  a  magnet,  and  the 
line  of  separation  was  not  visible 


334  SKETCHES    OF 

3.  Meeting  some  Turks,  they  reviled  him.     One,  more  vio 
lently  wicked  than  the  rest,  was  strangely  punished.     Both  his 
eyes  flew  out  of  their  sockets  into  Anthony's  hands.     The  saint 
is  painted  with  one  between  each  finger  and  thumb,  and  the 
screaming  sinner  kneeling  before  him.     This  was  evidence  too 
awful  for  Mohammedans  to  resist ;  they  were  converted,  and 
the  saint  returned  the  balls  to  their  gaping  voids,  where  all  be 
came  right  again. 

4.  "  What  of  those  horses   kneeling  before  the   saint,  and 
Turks  standing  near  ?"  I  asked.     One  day  Anthony  was  rais 
ing  the  Host  as  Mohammedans  were  passing.     They  derided 
and  refused  to  kneel.     To  convince  them  of  their  error,  he  told 
them  to  bring  their  cattle  near.     They  complied,  and,  to  their 
amazement,  the  brutes   set  them  an  example  of  devotion  by 
bowing  down  before  the  good  man  and  the  wafer.     I  observed 
that  this  miracle  had  been  explained  by  saying  grain  had  been 
put  into  a  cavity  which  the  hungry  beasts  could  not  reach  with 
out  stooping.      "  That,"  said  he,  "  is  a  lie." 

5.  Two  of  the  largest  paintings  are  chefs  cfmuvre.     Preach 
ing  in  Pavia,  he  stopped  suddenly,  and,  agreeably  to  ancient 
practice,  requested  his  congregation  to  repeat  a  short  prayer. 
He  appeared  to  his  audience  to  be  leaning  over  the  pulpit,  but 
in  reality  he  had  left  the  church.     Our  Lady  had  whispered  to 
him  that  his  father  had  been  arrested  in  Portugal  for  murder, 
and  was  at  that  moment  on  his  way  to  the  gallows.     By  her 
aid  he  arrived  before  the  rope  was  passed  round  his  parent's 
neck,  and,  as  the  pictures  show  him,  stopped  the  posse,  consist 
ing  of  the  judge,  sheriff,  hangman,  and  crowd.     The  murdered 
man  was  in  his  coffin  close  by,  and  on  him  the  saint  called. 
The  corpse  obeyed  the  mandate,  threw  off  the  cover  of  the  shell, 
sat  up  in  it,  and  proclaimed  aloud  the  innocence  of  the  accused. 
Anthony  saluted  his  father  and  returned  to  Pavia,  arriving  as 
the  congregation  finished  the  prayer,  and  concluded  his  discourse 
without  his  absence  having  been  suspected. 

6.  I  next  pointed  to  a  female  at  a  counter  behind  which  a 
man  was  busy  weighing  money.     That  young  woman,  we  were 
told,  was  friendless  and  destitute.     Nothing  but  dishonorable 
means  of  living  were  before  her.     Anthony  fell  in  with  her,  and 
gave  her  a  scrap  of  thin  paper,  with  directions  to  take  it  to  a 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  335 

certain  merchant,  and  ask  him,  in  the  saint's  name,  to  give  her 
its  weight  in  gold.  The  son  of  Mercury  laughed  as  he  dropped 
the  feather-like  slip  into  his  scales,  but  when  one — two — three 
— four  piles  of  gold  did  not  make  it  rise,  he  became  dumb  with 
reverence  and  fear.  A  few  more  pieces  brought  the  scales  to  a 
level,  and  the  now  happy  girl  had  the  means  of  continuing  in  a 
virtuous  course  of  life. 

7.  The  way  in  which  he  helped  a  married  lady  is  the  subject 
of  another.  This  woman  was  abandoned  by  her  husband.  An 
thony  met  him,  and  told  him  to  go  home  to  his  virtuous  wife, 
who  was  daily  praying  for  him.  He  refused.  "  Then,"  quoth 
the  saint,  "send  her  a  letter  and  some  money."  To  this  he 
agreed.  As  the  holy  man  would  not  touch  the  money  of  so  bad 
a  husband,  he  told  him  to  drop  it,  with  the  letter,  into  his  sleeve. 
As  usual,  the  distressed  lady  was  next  morning  praying  to  her 
favorite  patron.  A  letter  addressed  to  her  dropped  on  the  altar, 
and  while  reading  it,  money  rained  down  from  the  sleeve  of  the 
image,  as  the  painting  represents. 

One  more:  The  saint  met  a  man  in  low  spirits,  and  asked 
what  ailed  him.  He  had  been  in  business,  had  acquired  wealth, 
but  was  now  ruined  by  the  death  of  a  dishonest  partner,  whose 
heirs  claimed  the  property,  and  he,  had  no  evidence  to  show  his 
right  to  it.  "  Never  mind,"  quoth  Anthony,  "  come  with  me." 
They  entered  a  wood,  and  near  a  cavern  the  saint  called  on  the 
devil  to  bring  out  the  roguish  partner.  In  the  midst  of  fire  and 
smoke,  Satan  appears  with  his  victim.  The  saint  commanded 
the  latter  to  sign  an  order  on  his  relatives  to  give  up  their  ill- 
gotten  riches.  This  he  did,  and  the  cheated  merchant  got  his 
own  again.  The  parties  are  pictured  at  the  mouth  of  hell,  and 
Satan  holds  the  sinner  by  the  neck  while  he  signs  the  document. 

Our  reverend  commentator  was  in  his  element.  He.  dwelt 
with  pleasing  unction  on  a  dozen  or  two  more.  Several  had  an 
irresistible  influence  over  the  muscles  of  our  mouths ;  and  the 
negro,  who  had  come  in  again,  exposed  every  molar  and  incisor 
in  his  head,  nor  could  the  father  himself  always  keep  his  own 
eye-teeth  out  of  sight.  With  charming  naivete  he  said  to 

H ,  "  These  stories  can  do  no  harm.  If  all  are  not  true. 

most  of  them  are." 

We  had  now  crept  down  to  the  junction  of  the  chancel  with 


;»>36  SKETCHES    OF 

the  main  body  of  the  temple,  where  two  spirited  angels,  tall  as 
I  am,  stood,  as  if  to  guard  the  passage  into  the  holiest  place. 
They  are  highly  colored  and  gilded.  Each  holds  a  cornucopia, 
the  mouth  of  which  has  been  scooped  out  to  receive  a  large  cy 
lindrical  lamp,  in  which  a  lighted  wick  was  floating.  The  angel 
near  me  wore  a  conical  black  cap  without  a  rim,  that  contrasted 
strangely  with  the  uncovered  golden  locks  of  the  other.  The 
mystagogue  was  filling  my  companion  to  repletion  with  picture 
stories,  and  I  drew  near  and  touched  the  cone.  It  was  loose ; 
I  raised  it,  and,  without  a  moment's  delay,  replaced  it.  It  was 
neither  more  nor  less  than  an  extinguisher  for  the  lamps,  and. 
when  not  in  use,  dropped  on  the  seraph's  head  as  a  convenient 
;md  the  nearest  pin  to  hang  it  on.  Of  necessity,  the  head  was 
copiously  anointed  with  soot  and  grease.  This  piece  of  dese 
cration,  at  such  a  place,  was  remarkable,  because  it  is  deemed 
wrong  to  put  figures  of  celestials  to  any  low  use.  Conversing 
one  evening  about  the  various  designs  for  paliteiros,  a  sugges 
tion  to  make  them  after  the  figures  of  saints  or  angels,  the  picks 
to  form  the  rays  or  halos,  was  declared  inadmissible,  because  it 
would  be  wicked  to  stick  tooth-picks  in  holy  beings'  heads. 

When  we  reached  the  negro's  shrine,  the  father  was  interro 
gated  about  his  origin.  Some  persons,  he  said,  suppose  the 
saint  was  a  Spanish  slave  in  a  convent,  and,  becoming  emi 
nently  pious,  was  elected  abbot,  but  where  and  when  he  could 
not  say. 

The  vestry  is  a  splendid  room,  paved  with  red  and  white  mo 
saics.  The  ceiling  is  paneled,  and  covered  with  rich  paintings 
by  an  old  slave.  The  walls,  for  four  or  five  feet  up,  are  cased 
with  painted  blue  and  white  tiles,  illustrating  the  life  of  the 
saint,  and  the  rest  with  paintings  on  the  same  fruitful  subject. 
The  carvings  of  bureaus,  and  round  the  doors,  in  high  relief,  are 
very  superior.  The  lavatory  occupies  an  adjoining  room.  In 
the  centre  is  a  marble  basin,  shell-shaped,  eight  feet  over,  and 
from  it  rises  a  column,  at  whose  angles  dolphins  deliver  the  wa 
ter,  the  whole  surmounted  by  a  draped  female  statue  of  "Pu- 
ritas"  some  twelve  feet  from  the  floor. 

We  went  up  stairs  into  a  wide  passage  opening  into  the 
monks'  cells.  Out  of  one  there  came  the  strangest  substitute 
for  a  chamber-maid  I  ever  saw — an  old  and  miserable-looking 


LIFE    IN    BRAZIL.  337 

negro,  with  nothing  whatever  on  his  person  but  a  tattered  slip 
of  bagging  round  his  middle.  He  and  another  were  busy  with 
the  morning  chores,  llesting  a  while  in  one  of  the  rooms,  we 
beheld  the  Carioco  Aqueduct  winding  like  a  low,  whitewashed 
wall  along  the  hill  side ;  in  one  place  half  sunk  in  the  ground, 
at  another  wholly  out,  while  close  to  the  monastery  it  passes 
under  the  road  we  came  up,  and  enters  the  Carioco  Fountain 
at  the  foot  of  the  ascent. 

Our  cicerone  led  us  up  stairs  to  a  large  room  overlooking  a 
great  part  of  the  city  and  the  Bay— the  library.  When  the 
door  was  unlocked  and  thrown  open,  what  a  blast  of  damp  and 
mildew  came  out !  Pausing  till  fresh  air  could  stream  in,  we 
spent  an  hour  or  two  among  the  books.  Here  are  between  five 
and  six  thousand  volumes — heavy  tomes  on  Canon  Law,  Mo 
nastic  Orders,  Miracles  of  Saints,  History  of  Byzantium,  Works 
of  the  Fathers,  etc.  The  only  English  book  was  a  Life  of  Mil 
ton.  With  the  exception  of  a  work  on  magic,  I  did  not  see  a 
volume  of  special  interest,  nor  did  I  open  one  whose  leaves  were 
not  glued  together  by  damp,  and  of  which  large  portions  had  not 
been  devoured  by  ants.  In  a  few  years  the  whole  will  have  per 
ished. 

The  Saint  as  a  Soldier. — When  the  royal  family  arrived 
from  Portugal  in  1808,  Anthony  was  only  captain  of  infantry, 
but  before  returning  to  Europe,  John  VI.  raised  him  to  a  lieu 
tenant  colonelcy  on  the  staff,  to  the  great  displeasure  of  older 
officers.  Besides  his  salary  of  960  milreis  as  lieutenant  colonel, 
he  appears  in  other  grades  in  the  army  list,  and  receives  pay 
and  rations  accordingly.  I  extract  the  following  from  the  na 
tional  budget  for  the  present  year : 

Milreis. 

San  Antonio  de  Goyas Granted  November  18,  1750,  192 

de  Minas,  by  royal  mandate "        February  26,  17«99,  480 

do  Mouraria "        September  5,  1800,  120 

da  Parahiba "        December  13,  1809,     75 

Besides  these  army  pensions,  I  am  told  that  he  figures  in  other 
characters  as  a  creditor  on  the  public  ledgers.  As  the  whole 
affair  was  strange  to  me,  I  inquired  how  the  money  was  paid, 
to  whom,  and  how  disposed  of.  The  answer  was,  that  here,  in 
Rio,  the  abbot  of  his  monastery  receives  it,  and  expends  it  on 
the  saint's  person,  on  his  clothes,  washing,  and  ornaments, 

Y 


338  SKETCHES   OF 

wages  for  his  servants,  and  other  expenses  of  his  establishment. 
I  was  furnished  with  a  copy  of  the  receipt  for  his  last  month's 
salary : 

Pay  this,  BASTOS.  LIEUTENANT  COLONEL,  No.  363. 

Received  from  the  illustrious  Lieutenant-colonel  Manoel  Jose  Alvas  da  Fonseca, 
treasurer  and  paymaster-general  of  the  troops  of  this  capital,  the  sum  of  eighty 
milreis,  being  the  amount  of  pay  due  for  the  month  of  May  last  to  the  glorious  St. 
Anthony,  as  lieutenant  colonel  in  the  army. 
To  manifest  the  same,  I  sign  this  receipt. 

Noted  Folio  6,  LIRA.  Father  MIGUEL  DE  SANTA  RITA,  Superior. 

Rio  de  Janeiro,  June  15,  1846. 
Paid,  ALVES.       JOAO  CAETANO  D' ALMEIDA  FRA^A,  Ex  Syndic  Procurator. 

In  times  of  peace  his  active  services  are  not  required,  but  in 
war  he  is  expected  to  accompany  the  troops,  and  perhaps  even 
now  the  enunciation  of  his  presence  might  make  some  invading 
enemies  pause,  as  in  ancient  times  armies  quailed  when  the 
gods  of  their  opponents  were  brought  into  the  field. 

Anthony  as  a  /Saint. — To  impress  me  with  his  manifold  vir 
tues,  a  lady  loaned  me  a  small  volume,  "  Compendio  de  Ora- 
coes."  In  the  "Week  of  Love  to  St.  Anthony,"  the  form  of 
address  on  Mondays  is,  "  Oh,  my  St.  Anthony !  Wonder  of 
wonders !  Credit  to  Omnipotence !  Model  of  humility  1  Mystic 
doctor!"  On  other  days:  "Oh,  St.  Anthony !  Treasurer  of 
Italy !  Precious  Stone  of  Poverty !  Human  Angel !  Prince  of 
Heaven!  Sun  of  the  World!  Atlantes  of  Virtue!  Star  of  Spain 
and  Portugal !  Wonder  of  Nature !  Brilliant  Sun  of  Padua ! 
Doctor  of  Truth !  Trumpet  of  Heaven !  Hammerer  of  Heretics ! 
Abyss  of  Sanctity !  Kule  of  Perfection !  Column  of  the  Catho 
lic  Church !  Honor  of  the  Seraphic  Eeligion,  and  most  Beloved 
of  Glory !  I  offer  thee  thirty-six  Ave  Marias  in  honor  of  the 
thirty-six  years  during. which  thou  practiced  so  many  miracles ! " 

Again:  "Do  we  look  for  miracles?  St.  Anthony  makes 
death,  sin,  sorrow,  error,  and  devils  flee  away.  He  is  a  prompt 
medicine  for  every  disease.  He  takes  us  out  of  prison,  delivers 
us  from  pains,  and  all  lost  things  he  finds.  Perils  he  banishes, 
and  to  every  one  gives  succor.  Padua  confesses  all  this.  Pray 
for  us,  good  Anthony !"  Another  passage — if  the  reader  is  not 
out  of  breath — explains  why  he  is  represented  with  a  child. 
"  Oh,  glorious  St.  Anthony,  who  merited  to  receive  from  the 
hands  of  the  Mother  of  God  her  only  baby  into  thine  arms  ! " 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  339 

This  was  the  highest  of  honors.  No  other  saint  received  such 
a  mark  of  favor.  There  was  much  trouble  to  get  the  infant 
from  him ;  hence  it  is  the  common  practice  of  his  worshipers 
here,  when  they  get  out  of  patience  with  him  for  delaying  to 
comply  with  their  wishes,  to  threaten  to  take  the  baby  from  him. 
Nothing,  a  devout  lady  says,  is  more  effectual  than  such  a 
threat.  Intimating  that  Nossa  Serihora,  at  the  time  Anthony 
lived,  had  no  baby  to  put  into  his  arms,  I  was  told  she,  by  mir 
acle,  made  one  for  the  purpose ! 

As  the  restorer  of  lost  things,  Anthony  is  constantly  appealed 
to  in  cases  of  runaway  slaves,  stray  horses,  mules,  and  stolen 

furniture.  Senhora  P carries  his  picture  in  her  bosom, 

and,  like  thousands,  keeps  an  image  of  him  in  her  house.  Not 
a  day  passes  without  her  addressing  him.  To  convince  me 
that  he  was  "  a  very  miraculous  saint,"  she  mentioned  that  he 
had  sent  one  of  her  mother's  slaves  back  after  a  long  absence, 
and  how  a  valuable  one  of  her  own  had  run  off,  and  been  forced 
to  return.  This  last  confessed  that  the  tortured  image  of  the 
saint  used  to  appear  and  tell  him  he  must  return. 

When  other  saints  do  not  comply  with  requests  preferred  to 
them,  resignation  is  a  duty ;  while,  in  such  cases,  Anthony  is 
scourged,  bruised,  and  tormented  in  every  imaginable  manner ; 
and,  what  is  strange,  this  is  said  to  be  agreeable  to  him  !  The 

measures  adopted  by  Senhora  P were  such  as  her  mother 

had  recourse  to.  She  took  Anthony,  a  figure  about  the  length 
of  one's  hand,  of  pottery,  but  more  commonly  of  plaster  of  Paris 
— placed  a  lighted  candle  before  him,  asked  him  to  send  the  fu 
gitive  home,  and  to  mind  and  give  him  no  rest  till  he  return 
ed.  A  week  elapsed,  and  he  came  not ;  another  and  another 
passed  away,  and  still  no  tidings  of  him.  She  then  took  the 
saint,  laid  him,  with  his  face  downward,  on  the  floor  behind  the 
door,  and  put  a  heavy  stone  upon  him,  that  there  might  be  no 
intermission  of  his  pain.  I  asked,  "Why  treat  him  so  severe 
ly  ?"  Then  came  the  stereotyped  story :  "St.  Anthony  wished 
to  be  a  martyr,  but  as  Our  Lady  did  not  permit  him  to  have 
that  honor,  he  loves  to  be  afflicted  in  his  representatives,  and 
very  often  will  not  listen  to  his  friends  until  they  are  torment 
ed."  As  soon  as  the  fugitive  was  recovered,  the  load  was  re 
moved  from  the  back  of  the  little  sufferer ;  he  was  washed,  put 


340  SKETCHES   OF 

on  a  covered  table,  two  candles  lit  before  him,  and  the  best 
thanks  of  the  lady  presented  with  a  courtesy. 

It  is  common  with  some  to  put  the  uncomplying  saint  into 
ovens,  and  throw  him  into  ash-pits,  arid  never  to  take  him  out 
except  to  thank  him  or  to  chastise  him ;  but  the  most  general 
punishment  is  consignment  to  a  dark  and  wet  prison.  Every 
house  in  Rio  has  a  shallow  well  or  cistern  in  the  yard  of  brack 
ish  water  rising  within  a  few  feet  of  the  surface.  In  these  the 
saint  is  immured.  So  common  is  it  "  to  put  St.  Anthony  into 
the  well"  that  the  expression  is  proverbial  for  having  lost  some 
thing.  H says  he  had  a  slave  who  ran  off,  and  was  caught 

and  returned  in  a  few  weeks.  On  communicating  the  news  of 
the  recovery  of  the  fugitive  to  his  family,  his  wife  led  him  to 
the  small  well  in  the  yard,  and,  opening  the  cover,  showed  him 
Anthony  suspended  by  a  cord  just  over  the  water.  She  had 
placed  him  there  soon  after  the  slave  was  missing.  Of  course 
he  was  drawn  up,  like  Jeremiah  out  of  the  pit,  and  compliment 
ed  with  thanks  and  a  couple  of  candles,  and  the  slave  reminded 
how  useless  were  attempts  to  escape  the  vigilance  of  this  heav 
enly  negro-catcher.  There  is  no  doubt  whatever  that  many 
ilaves  are  recovered  by  means  of  the  saint.  The  tortured  im- 
jge,  like  one  of  their  native  idols,  haunts  their  imaginations,  and 
constant  dread  of  evil  befalling  them  compels  them  to  return. 

Vast  numbers  of  six  and  seven  inch  Anthonys  are  destroyed 
by  angry  devotees.  I  heard  of  disappointed  lottery  speculators 
hewing  them,  like  Agag,  in  pieces ;  others  throwing  them  into 
the  fire  during  the  prevalence  of  rage ;  so  that  if  the  saint  did 
not  seal  the  truth  with  his  blood  as  he  desired,  scarcely  one  of 
his  representatives  escapes  being  martyred. 

A  few  days  ago  an  advertisement  of  a  lost  ass  appeared  in  a 
daily  paper.  The  animal  had  been  taken  from  a  garden  belong 
ing  to  the  monastery  of  Saint  Anthony,  and  a  reward  was  offer 
ed  for  its  recovery ;  so  that  while  he  recovers  other  people's  lost 
cattle,  he  can  not  find  his  own — at  all  events,  his  friars  have 
more  faith  in  newspapers  than  in  him. 

The  monks  are  unpopular.  Of  several  recent  lawsuits  they 
have  not  succeeded  in  one.  A  house  is  being  erected  by  a  pri 
vate  individual  on  ground  claimed  by  them.  They  have  pro 
tested  against  the  intrusion,  but  that  is  all.  Some  time  ago,  a 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL. 


341 


similar  outrage  induced  the  abbot  to  appeal  to  the  government. 
Carneiro  Leon,  an  enlightened  statesman,  was  Secretary  of  State. 
After  hearing  the  complainant,  he  replied,  "  Well,  we  don't  want 
monks,  and  the  government  itself  wants  the  convent  grounds." 
The  frighted  father  fled— perhaps  to  appeal  to  Anthony  ?  "  No, 
no,"  said  a  native  friend,  "  friars  know  better ;  they  tell  simple 
tons  to  do  that." 

Besides  real  estate,  their  means  are  swelled  by  bequests,  pro 
ceeds  of  "blessed"  prints,  scapularies,  medals,  money  for  masses, 
and  for  consecrated  habits  for  those  who  desire  to  be  buried  in 

them a  superstition  quite  common ;  men,  women,  children,  and 

youths  being  frequently  entombed  in  the  garbs  of  monks  and 
nuns,  the  wealthy  paying  high  prices  for  them. 

May  31.  All  concede  that  the  brotherhood  of  Santa  Anna 
bears  off  the  palm  in  the  current  festival.  This  church  stands 
on  one  side  of  the  Campo,  and  is  here  represented;  the  flag- 


FEAST    OK    THE    HOLY    GHOST    A' 


ANNA'S  CHURCH. 


342  SKETCHES    OF 

staff  and  flag  of  the  Holy  Ghost  in  front,  a  portion  of  the  py 
rotechnic  poles  with  figures  mounted  on  them,  the  auctioneer 
and  empire  fenced  in,  etc.  Before  noticing  them,  let  us  glance 
at  the  establishments  of  lay  showmen,  who  are  always  wel 
comed  here  by  their  ecclesiastical  brethren,  both  parties  being 
mutual  aids  to  each  other.  Here  are,  in  the  immediate  vicini 
ty  of  the  church, 

1.  "  The  beautiful  Dog  of  the  North— the  Phoenix  of  Eu 
rope.     Madame  Neif  has  the  honor  of  requesting  ladies  and  gen 
tlemen  to  attend  early  to  enjoy  the  brilliant  spectacle  of  4  The 
beautiful  Dog  of  the  North,'  as  she  can  remain  only  a  short 
time.      The  exhibition  is  in  one  of  the  tents  in  the  Campo 
of  Santa  Anna,  every  evening  during  the  Feast  of  the  Holy 
Ghost." 

2.  "Theatro  Magico."    (Phantasmagoria  and  natural  magic.) 

3.  "Theatro  de  Bom  Gusto"     (Posture-making,  tumbling, 
lifting  weights.) 

4.  "Tourinhos  Mechanicos."     (Punch  and  Judy,  and  other 
puppets.) 

5.  "Trabalhos  (feats)  do  JSenhor  Otto  Motti" 

The  precocious  poodle  of  the  advertisement  is  a  canine  roue  ; 
"he  plays  at  cards,  spells  out  ladies'  names,  and  does  other 
wonderful  things." 

There  were  three  more  booths,  in  one  of  which  sword-swal 
lowing  and  drawing  ribbons  from  the  mouth  were  the  chief 
feats,  except  that  the  performers  rinsed  their  parched  throats 
with  fire.  In  another  were  ground  and  lofty  tumbling,  with 
rope-dancing. 

The  feast  opened  on  Sunday,  the  last  day  of  May.  It  was 
dark  before  I  reached  the  place.  The  illuminated  tower  and 
steeple  of  the  church  sparkled  in  the  distance  as  with  strings  and 
wreaths  of  diamonds.  Bengola  and  other  lights  were  stream 
ing  upward,  and  inverted  cones  of  rockets — a  dozen  from  one 
stick — were  every  few  moments  sent  aloft,  while  bombs  ex 
ploded  with  reports  loud  as  the  heaviest  ordnance ;  the  church 
bells  pealed  away,  the  drums,  cymbals,  and  trumpets  of  the 
showmen  helped  them.  Opposite  the  show-booths  were  others 
for  the  sale  of  wines,  cigars,  pies,  and  other  refreshments.  One 
poetical  proprietor  informed  visitors,  in  the  following  verse,  that 


LIFE  IN   BRAZIL.  343 

his  place  contained  every  thing  that  could  be  wished  for  by 
those  who  love  to  taste  and  suck  good  things : 

"  Quern  bons  potiscos 
Quizar  chucar, 
Pcssa  quo  tudo 
Selhe  ha  de  dar." 

Avenues  were  formed  by  colored  women  seated  on  the  grass, 
each  with  a  basket  of  fruit,  cakes,  or  doces,  lit  up  with  a  paper 
lantern.  Here  were  "Holy  Ghost  rusks,"  gingerbread,  and 
scores  of  other  articles  thus  designated,  being  stamped  with  a 
dove  in  honor  of  the  festival.  The  noise,  bustle,  and  excite 
ment  of  the  scene  made  a  perfect  Bartholomew  Fair.  The 
ground  was  alive  with  people,  who  kept  moving  like  a  colony 
of  ants  in  commotion. 

But  let  us  turn  to  the  church,  and  try  to  get  through  the 
crowds  in  front  of  the  stage,  which  is  very  artistically  got  up. 
At  each  end  an  angel. holds  a  lamp,  while  chandeliers,  vases, 
blue  and  crimson  tapestry,  enlighten  and  decorate  the  whole. 
"  The  Emperor  of  the  Holy  Ghost,"  seated  on  a  throne,  pre 
sides,  and  really  acts  the  part  to  admiration.  The  little  fellow 
is  ten  years  old ;  he  wears  a  crown ;  a  wide  frill  adorns  his 
neck  and  rests  on  an  ermine  tippet ;  his  coat,  vest,  small-clothes 
with  strings  at  the  knees,  white  stockings,  and  buckled  shoes 
are  those  of  adults  two  centuries  ago.  The  managers  and  a 
number  of  ladies  are  sitting  near  him :  the  band  is  playing  a 
lively  air,  and  see !  the  little  monarch  points  with  his  gilt  scep 
tre  to  a  side-stand — a  signal  for  one  of  his  secretaries  to  hand 
him  a  paper  of  sugar-plums.  He  wears  "  the  sash  of  the  Order 
of  Christ."  There  is  probably  some  alliance  between  these  ju 
venile  monarchs  and  the  "  boy  bishops"  of  the  Middle  Ages. 

Soon  as  the  music  ceased,  out  sprung  the  auctioneer,  dressed 
in  motley  ! — a  young  man  of  twenty-five  or  six — a  Brazilian 
Grimaldi.  In  disposing  of  a  large  rusk,  his  antics  elicited 
shrieks  of  approbation.  After  disposing  of  several  more,  and 
handing  to  each  purchaser,  with  the  change,  a  sacred  print,  he 
disappeared,  and  in  a  twinkling  reappeared  in  a  striped  close- 
fitting  dress  like  Harlequin's,  with  bells  sewed  on  the  front  and 
side  seams.  Making  a  profound  reverence  to  the  emperor,  he 
introduced,  in  a  comic  dance,  a  large  white  rooster  to  the  audi- 


344 


SKETCHES    OF 


ence.  Holding  it  in  a  nat 
ural  position  by  its  legs,  he 
made  it  scream  by  pulling 
down  the  tail  feathers,  and 
soon  knocked  it  down  to  a 
laughing  buyer,  with  a  wood 
cut  of  a  dove  in  a  triangle 
thrown  in.  A  quick  broker, 
he  put  the  first  bid  on  him 
self,  and  struck  off  the  lots  at 
the  first  or  second  advance. 
He  kept  the  company  in  the 
best  of  tempers,  and  there 
was  no  putting  a  joke  upon 
him.  Some  one  attempted 
this,  when  he  took  hold  of 
what  he  called  his  "silver  quizzing-glass,"  which  hung  by  a 
ribbon  low  as  his  knees,  and  applying  it  to  his  eye,  thrust  his 
whole  face  through  it.  It  was  an  open  ring  cut  out  of  a  sheet 
of  tin.  His  manner  of  using  it  was  irresistible. 

Retiring,  he  came  out  next  in  the  worn-out  dress  of  a  gener 
al,  with  enormous  epaulets,  and  performed  a  comic  dance,  the 
music  accompanying  him.  With  every  change  of  the  step  he 
changed  the  figure  of  his  magic  hat :  one  moment  a  regular 
chapeau  de  bras,  the  next  a  bishop's  mitre,  now  a  Phrygian 
bonnet,  now  a  Quaker's  castor,  anon  an  inverted,  and  last  of  all 
a  perfect  cone  with  asses'  ears,  in  which  form  he  fell  to  business, 
and  disposed  of  fowls,  pigeons,  pies,  custards,  and  confectionery. 
After  disposing  of  a  dozen  pigeons,  the  musicians  played  a  pop 
ular  overture,  and,  thinking  I  had  seen  enough,  I  turned  to  leave, 
when  a  sudden  shout  announced  his  reappearance.  He  was  in 
a  white  and  scarlet  dress,  mounted  on  high  stilts,  and  danced  a 
polka  on  them  to  perfection.  With  a  hen  in  one  hand  and  his 
eye-glass  in  the  other,  he  placed  his  arms  akimbo,  and  without 
hesitation  came  down  eight  or  ten  steps  into  the  "empire,"  and 
traversed  it  for  bids,  stalking  among  the  crowd  like  a  heron  or 
flamingo  among  penguins.  For  fun  and  drollery  no  actor  among 
the  showmen  could  surpass  him.  He  had  one  drawback — his 
voice  was  hoarse  and  cracked. 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL. 


345 


.-        .  Before  I  left  he  appeared  in  a 

night-gown  and  night-cap,  which 
last  he  changed  into  various  stand 
ard  coverings  for  the  head,  and 
generally  by  hitting  some  one  with 
it.  The  worst  thing  about  him 
was  his  treatment  of  the  fowls 
and  pigeons,  which  he  whirled  and 
jerked  about  without  the  least  re 
gard  to  their  sufferings.  The  lat 
ter  bore  their  pains  in  silence, 
while  the  screechings  of  the  for 
mer  added  to  the  general  merri 
ment.  He  is  a  professional  buf 
foon. 

Fire-works. — In  pyrotechnics 
Brazilian  artists  are,  I  suppose, 
equal  to  those  of  any  country. 
While  they  excel  in  staple  "fo- 
gos"  they  have  a  variety  which, 
though  of  ancient  date,  I  have 
seen  nowhere  else.  Admitting 
of  endless  applications,  and  open 
ing  a  new  field  for  our  artists,  a 
few  specimens  may  as  well  bo 
oiven.  But  first  let  us  read  the 

official  announcement  from  the  Diario  : 

"Espirito  Santo  de  Santa  Anna. — This  evening,  June  2, 
will  be  given,  if  the  weather  permits,  a  grand  display  of  artificial 
fire-works,  of  every  variety  and  color,  all  made  by  the  famous 
artist,  Bernardino  Jose  da  Cunha.  The  attention  of  the  re 
spectable  public  is  solicited.  All  are  invited  to  enjoy  the  spec 
tacle,  and  at  the  same  time  view  the  empire,  which  is  fitted  up 
in  a  style  surpassing  that  of  previous  years." 

Here  were  forty  poles,  varying  from  twenty-five  to  fifty  feet 
in  height.  Against  some  were  fixed  wheels,  wheels  within 
wheels,  suns,  moons,  stars,  cones,  polygons,  vases,  baskets,  and 


346  SKETCHES   OF 

forms  various  as  produced  by  a  kaleidoscope.  A  row  of  splen 
did  archways  of  fire  arose,  and  over  them,  in  words  of  flame, 
"Louvoures  ao  Divino  Espirito  Santo"  But  these  are  more 
or  less  akin  to  similar  things  with  us.  It  was  the  human  fig 
ures  on  the  top  of  the  poles,  and  the  movements  imparted  to 
them,  that  constituted  the  novelty. 

Large  as  life,  and  dressed  in  character,  they  were  so  well  got 
up,  that  at  a  short  distance  all  might  be  taken  for  living  per 
sons — a  few  feet  off  the  illusion  was  strong.  They  represented 
barbers,  razor-grinders,  wood-sawyers,  tumblers,  rope-dancers, 
ladies,  and  ladies'  maids,  etc.  The  ablest  tailors  and  mantua- 
makers  could  not  have  dressed  them  better.  Workmen  wore 
roundabouts  and  caps  ;  gentlemen  were  in  blue  coats,  striped 
pants,  and  black  neckcloths.  The  barber's  shirt-bosom  was  fig 
ured,  the  collars  projected  fashionably,  and  his  cravat  was  tied  a 
la  mode;  he  wore  a  white  jacket  and  pants,  an  apron,  and  high 
ly-polished  shoes,  with  a  razor  in  his  hand,  and  a  comb  behind 
his  ear.  One  lady  is  dressed  in  spotted  pink,  with  frills,  sash, 
kid  gloves,  and  every  thing  else  to  correspond.  She  is  ready 
for  a  pirouette  when  the  general  dance  begins.  Had  I  not  pre 
viously  examined  one  or  two,  I  could  hardly  have  believed  that 
their  silk  hats  and  bonnets,  coats,  vests,  polished  boots,  linen, 
leather  caps,  veils,  and  muslin  de  laines,  were  nothing  more  than 
coloredpaper,  supported  on  delicate  wire  frames  :  the  faces  were 
masks. 

A  slight  reference  to  the  mechanism  by  which  motion  is 
imparted  to  them  will  be  sufficient. 
The  base  on  which  each  figure  stands 
is  a  horizontal  wheel,  some  ten  feet 
over.  Its  axis  coincides  with  that  of 
the  pole,  upon  which  it  is  made  slow 
ly  to  turn  by  a  band  of  small  rockets 
going  round  its  periphery.  Suppose 
on  the  upper  side  of  one  of  these 
wheels  two  upright  posts,  supporting 
the  ends  of  a  horizontal  crank-shaft, 
on  which  is  a  small  vertical  wheel. 
Imagine  a  man  standing  on  one  foot 
on  the  larger  wheel  and  the  other 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  347 

foot  on  the  crank,  and  you  have  one  form  of  the  popular  razor- 
grinder.  He  appears  to  turn  the  wheel  with  his  foot,  and,  hold 
ing  the  instrument  to  the  surface,  a  stream  of  fire  flies  from  it 
as  from  a  dry  grindstone.  , 

The  movements  of  the  wood-sawyer  and  the  rest  were  pro 
duced  in  the  same  or  in  a  similar  way.  At  ten  P.M.  the  dis 
play  began,  and  continued  till  twelve.  The  place  was  as  light 
as  day  with  artificial  flames.  On  one  pole  two  gentlemen  raised 
their  hats  and  bowed  to  each  other ;  close  by  them,  a  chamber 
maid  waited  with  a  candle  in  her  hand  to  show  them  to  their 
apartments.  A  lady  on  another  moved  her  hands,  as  if  to  join 
them  to  a  neighboring  dandy,  and  whirled  away  in  a  cotillion. 
A  tumbler  stuck  fast  in  a  somerset,  and  remained  in  an  in 
verted  position  to  the  close,  when,  with  the  rest,  he  vanished  in 
a  flash.  The  wood-sawyer  and  his  African  assistants  worked 
away ;  the  razor-grinder's  wheel  flew  round,  and  his  foot  rose 
and  fell  with  the  treddle  at  a  preternatural  rate.  Occasionally 
his  grindstone  lacked  moisture,  and  then  he  spat  jets  of  liquid 
fire  on  it,  his  face  glistening  with  sweat  or  varnish.  While  ad 
miring  his  ardor,  I  felt  a  slight  movement  at  my  coat  pocket. 
It  was  picked.  Five  seconds  had  not  elapsed  since  I  felt  my 
pocket-book  in  it.  Turning  quickly  round,  my  eyes  met  those 
of  two  young  fellows  looking  innocent  as  doves.  One  of  them 
had  it.  They  had,  I  presume,  seen  me  take  it  out  repeatedly. 
It  contained  only  memoranda  and  sketches,  chiefly  of  the  auc 
tioneer  and  empire.  I  had  been  reminded  of  pickpockets  at  the 
feast,  and  had  no  money  or  watch  about  me. 

Having  a  long  walk  before  me,  I  left  ere  more  than  half  the 
figures  on  the  poles  were  in  motion.  In  passing  the  Lapa 
Church,  I  observed  windlasses  and  wheel-work  in  motion  on  a 
few  poles.  Over  an  illumined  doorway  an  angel  unfolds  a 
scroll,  exposing  the  words  "Gloria  ao  Divino  Espirito  Santo." 
The  auctioneer  was  inviting  bids  for  a  fowl ;  his  audience  were 
chiefly  negroes  and  low  fellows.  T—  -  told  me  he  stopped  a 
moment  in  passing,  and  that  the  language  of  the  brute  was 
abominably  indecent. 

Thus  ended  the  month  of  May  and  the  first  day  of  the  feast 
of  the  Holy  Ghost.  In  their  general  aspects  and  influences  fes- 
tas  are  certainly  akin  to  operas  and  theatres,  but  it  would  be 


348  SKETCHES    OF 

wrong  to  consider  them  specimens  of  papal  worship.  They  are, 
I  believe,  just  what  their  pagan  prototypes  were,  reunions  in 
honor  of  patron  divinities,  and  not  occasions  for  invoking  them 
so  much  as  for  social  rejoicings. 

The  fete  was  kept  up  by  the  Santa  Anna  managers  for  eight 
days.  On  the  last  day  the  emperor  for  the  next  year  was  elect 
ed.  The  same  boy  was  chosen.  He  is  the  son  of  an  apothe 
cary,  who  is  fond  of  the  honor,  which  costs  him,  it  is  said,  five 
hundred  dollars  a  year. 

The  concluding  official  advertisements  were  as  follows : 

"It  is  communicated  to  the  respectable  public,  and  to  the 
Brotherhood  of  the  Divine  Holy  Ghost  of  Santa  Anna,  that  on 
Sunday,  7th  instant,  there  will  be  celebrated  a  Te  Deum  and 
sermon,  when  the  re-elected  emperor  will  take  possession.  At 
night  the  auction  and  empire. 

"  J.  J.  GOMES  FERREIRA,  Secretary.1" 

"Divino  Ezpirito  Santo  de  Santa  Anna. — On  Sunday,  7th, 
the  ceremony  of  the  Emperor  of  the  Holy  Ghost  taking  posses 
sion  will  occur  in  the  afternoon,  with  a  Te  Deum  and  music. 
Signorina  Cardiani  [an  Italian  cantatrice]  and  other  artists  will 
perform  gratis.  The  empire  will  be  illuminated  at  night.  There 
will  be  an  auction,  music,  and  splendid  fireworks." 

In  the  same  paper  the  booth  and  show  men  advertise  their 
attractions.  On  the  evening  of  the  7th  the  Campo  was  in  my 
way  home  from  Mataporcos.  The  auctioneer  wore  a  court  dress, 
his  hair  powdered,  a  long  queue,  etc.  He  was  in  high  glee — 
sold  a  basket  of  fowls  and  pigeons  in  no  time.  I  left  him  dan 
cing  a  polka  on  stilts.  The  Italian  performers  had  got  through 
their  parts  before  I  arrived.  The  showmen  were  doing  a  good 
business.  The  wide  steps  to  one  booth,  where  "  the  diverting 
scene  of  the  monkey  in  a  sack"  was  announced,  gave  way  under 
the  crowds  waiting  for  admission. 

Of  tradesmen's  advertisements  relating  to  this  festival  the  an 
nexed  is  a  sample : 

"Notice  to  the  Illustrious  Preparers  of  the  Festival  of  tht 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  349 

Holy  Spirit. — In  Silversmith  Street,  No.  78,  may  be  found  a 
beautiful  assortment  of  Holy  Ghosts,  in  gold,  with  glories,  at 
80  cents  each  ;  smaller  sizes,  without  glories,  at  40  cents.  Sil 
ver  Holy  Ghosts,  with  glories,  at  6^  dollars  per  hundred ;  do., 
without  glories,  3^  dollars.  Holy  Ghosts  of  tin,  resembling 
silver,  at  75  cents  per  hundred." 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 

Vicar  and  Vintems. — Theatricals. — Barbonos  Monks  and  the  troublesome  Black 
smith. — Priscilliana. — Host  and  drunken  Bellman. — Proceedings  of  the  National 
Senate  arrested. — Slave-trader's  Office. — Anthony  of  the  Poor  :  his  Festival  and 
Tablets. — Mosquitoes  and  Lizards. — Corpus  Christi  and  St.  George. — Showmen 
and  the  Burial. 

June  1.  Besides  half-holidays,  there  are  six  full  ones  this 
month,  exclusive  of  Sundays.  The  vicar  got  through  mass 
early,  and  came  in  to  breakfast  and  bisca.  He  mentioned  an 
old  lady  in  good  circumstances,  who  plagued  him  for  two  vin- 
tems.  As  he  had  none  about  him,  to  get  rid  of  her  importuni 
ties  he  gave  her  a  couple  out  of  the  alms-box.  This  was  just 
what  she  wanted.  As  they  were  consecrated,  they  would  act 
as  a  charm  against  poverty,  and  while  she  retained  them  she 
would  never  lack  the  means  of  living.  Under  a  similar  persua 
sion,  a  poor  woman  requests  him,  once  a  year,  to  fold  up,  for  a 
few  moments,  a  vintem  in  the  altar-cloth. 

3d.  The  great  day  of  the  feast ;  the  performers  in  the  Cam- 
po,  and  other  artists  also,  are  on  the  qui  vive,  thus :  the  play 
to-night  at  one  theatre  is  "The  Jealous  Woman  :  a  comedy, 
in  five  acts,  with  other  entertainments,  for  the  benefit  of  Nossa 
Senhora  da  Concei9ao,  in  Soap  Street."  In  another,  "The 
Man  of  the  jBlack  Mask,  in  five  acts,  with  the  comedy  of  The 
Brothers  of  Souls  ; "  the  latter  a  satire  on  the  collectors,  who 
are  represented  as  pocketing  the  alms  they  collect.  To-mor 
row,"  The  Scholars  of  St.  Cyro,  in  five  acts ;  a  Mazurka  Dance. 
and  the  farce  of  Judas  on  Allelulia.^  "  The  Feast  of  the 
Holy  Ghost  in  the  Country'"'  is  another  popular  comedy  of  the 
kind. 

We  fell  in  to-day  with  one  of  the  Barbonos  monks,  recently 
returned  from  a  visit  to  the  Holy  Land.  B ,  who  is  a  wag, 


350  SKETCHES    OF 

asked  him  how  it  was  that  they  allowed  Brother  Leonardo  to 
hold  possession  of  property  belonging  to  the  order,  and  to  carry 
on  blacksmithing  to  the  disgrace  of  the  Church.  How  can  the 
people  venerate  the  Barbonos  ? 

Monk.  "Piani.  Be  advised  that  I  have  brought  an  order 
from  Eome  to  call  him  to  account  and  take  away  his  credentials 
as  a  friar.  The  business  requires  caution,  but  with  time  and 
patience  we  will  remove  the  stain  from  our  order  and  recover 
the  property.  For  several  years  he  has  received  the  alms  col 
lected  for  the  poor  saints  at  Jerusalem,  and  has  sent  neither 
money  nor  accounts  to  Rome ;  and,  besides  seizing  buildings 
and  land  belonging  to  the  society,  he  has  made  some  of  its 
slaves  work  for  him,  and  now  claims  them  as  his  own  ;  but  pi- 
ani,  piani"  (softly,  softly). 

B .  "  Let  me  tell  you  that  he  has  strong  friends  under 

the  present  government,  as  he  had  under  that  of  Pedro  I.  Sev 
eral  members  of  the  Chamber  of  Deputies  board  with  him." 

Monk.  "  We  know  it.  It  is  his  influence  with  the  Chambers 
and  part  of  the  ministry  that  makes  us  pause.  He  does  not 
know  the  powers  I  have  brought  over  respecting  him.  Were 
he  to  discover  my  thoughts,  he  would  try  to  get  rid  of  me,  or 
perhaps  induce  the  government  to  order  me  to  leave." 

B ,  whispering  in  his  ear.  "  Not  so,  padre,  while  the  em 
press,  your  countrywoman,  befriends  you,  and  the  nuncio  is 
with  you." 

Monk.  "Amigo,  I  will  tell  you.  The  nuncio  and  I  are 
agreed  on  what  is  to  be  done."  Here  he  placed  his  two  forefin 
gers  side  by  side,  and  rubbed  one  along  the  other — an  express 
ive  sign  of  two  parties  drawing  together  in  one  business. 

It  was  a  treat  to  see  the  two  confabulating,  so  rapidly  did 
their  features  change  and  their  tongues  and  fingers  move ;  one 
moment  aghast,  the  next  bland  and  smiling ;  now  a  scream, 
next  a  whisper,  anon  the  tongue  lies  still,  and  the  hands  take 
up  the  story.  The  monk  was  a  young  man,  under  thirty,  and 
I  could  not  but  think  him  indiscreet  to  speak  so  freely  on  the 
subject.  The  chief  of  the  Capuchins  approached,  called  him 
from  us,  and,  whispering  to  him,  eyed  us  significantly.  He  was 
undoubtedly  rebuking  him  for  conversing  with  us,  for,  though 
we  often  fell  in  with  him  afterward,  he  avoided  us. 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  351 

As  for  the  backsliding  friar,  he  is  said  to  care  not  the  value 
of  a  nail-rod  for  all  the  tonsured  tribe,  and  that,  if  he  had  the 
power,  he  would  not  hesitate  to  make  his  late  brethren  blow  the 
bellows  and  wield  sledge-hammers  in  his  forge.  On  returning, 
we  called  to  see  him,  but  he  had  just  stepped  out.  He  enters 
his  shop  in  his  gown,  takes  orders  for  shoes  for  both  mules  and 
men  (having  slaves  shoemakers),  and  almost  any  thing  in  the 
iron  and  leather  trade.* 

4M.  In  this  morning's  ramble  H~ and  I  found  Priscilliana 

holding  a  levee.  Her  portrait  committee  were  doing  as  brisk  a 
business  as  the  adjoining  Baracas  gentlemen.  As  we  were 
about  to  leave,  a  wretched-looking  negro,  with  a  small  bell  in 
his  hand,  came  up  and  stood  by  us  at  the  door.  His  only  gar 
ments  were  the  relics  of  a  filthy  shirt,  and  of  more  foul  and  tat 
tered  pants.  He  muttered  to  himself,  and  wTas  so  fragrant  with 

cacha9a  that  H ,  after  interrogating  him,  threatened  to  knock 

him  down  if  he  did  not  move  farther  off.  "What  is  he  going 
to  do  with  that  bell  ?"  "  Wait  a  moment,"  said  my  companion, 
"  and  you  will  see."  The  words  were  scarcely  spoken  when 
two  mules  drew  a  carro  up.  A  man  came  out  of  the  church 
with  a  lantern,  and  lit  the  carriage-lamps.  A  priest  next  came 
forth,  with  an  attendant  holding  a  red,  flat  canopy  over  him. 
Both  got  into  the  chaise,  the  half-drunken  negro  stepped  ahead 
of  the  mules,  the  postillion  laid  his  whip  across  their  backs, 
and  the  cortege  started  for  the  house  of  some  sick  person  with 
the  Host ;  the  bellman,  in  a  jog-trot,  keeping  in  advance,  and 
causing  people  to  move  their  hats,  and  some  to  kneel,  till  he  and 
his  followers  passed  by. 

As  the  National  Senate  was  in  session,  we  stepped  in  and 
took  seats  in  the  gallery,  which  contained  but  four  other  spec 
tators.  Twenty  members  were  present,  two  with  skull-caps, 
and  the  secretary  also  had  a  tonsure.  A  senator  was  fervently 
discussing  a  project  for  distributing  property  of  deceased  parents 
equally  between  legitimate  and  illegitimate  offspring.  He  wish 
ed  the  law  to  be  more  explicit ;  he  alluded  to  the  facility  of  ob- 

*  His  enemies  did  not  succeed  in  displacing  him.  In  a  late  almanac  he  ap 
pears  as  usual,  under  the  head  of  Hospicio  dc  Jerusalem:  "  Fr.  Leonardo  de  En- 
carna^ao  Santa  Anna,  Commissario  Geral  da  Terra  Santa."  However  suitable  in 
other  respects  his  name  may  be,  the  Incarnation  of  the  Virgin  Mother  is  surely  an 
unfit  appellative  for  a  modern  Vulcan. 


352  SKETCHES    OF 

taining  fraudulent  testimony,  and  referred  to  a  class  of  men, 
who,  as  in  Lisbon,  swear,  he  said,  to  any  thing  for  a  pataca,  or 
at  most  for  a  milreis.  From  our  seats  we  saw  the  drunken  ne 
gro  and  carriage  returning.  Presently  his  bell  was  heard  with 
in,  when  the  speaker  paused,  and  every  senator  arose,  and  stood 
in  silence  till  the  sound  died  away ! 

We  called  at  a  slave-dealer's  office.  On  the  walls  were  penny 
daubs  of  the  Madonna  and  other  characters.  One  was  a  black 
saint,  with  Hottentot  cherubs  floating  in  the  air,  and  two  ebony 
mortals  at  his  feet.  There  would  have  been  no  occasion  to  ask 
his  name  had  it  not  been  printed  on  the  sheet — "  The  miracu 
lous  San  Bento,  Protector  of  Angola."  There  were  no  slaves 
about  the  premises,  and  nothing  except  these  wallflowers  to  in 
dicate  the  nature  of  the  business  transacted  in  them. 

Antonio  des  Pobres  was  holding  a  festival  in  honor  of  "  Our 
Lady  of  Pleasures/'  accompanied  with  an  auction.  We  looked 
in  on  our  way  home.  Beneath  a  shabby  transparency  sat  four 
musicians  on  a  small  stage  by  the  church  door.  The  auction 
eer  had  no  stand,  but  hunted  for  bids  inside  and  out.  The  im 
ages  had  been  washed  and  otherwise  improved.  Anthony  had 
on  a  clean  gown,  and  his  baby  a  new  frock.  Among  waxen 

offerings  in  the  vestry  were  numerous   old  tablets.      H 

translated  a  few.  On  one  a  man's  leg  and  thigh  were  painted, 
all  red  and  sore  with  wounds  ;  the  owner  had  applied  to  An 
thony  and  was  healed.  Another  represents  Graciana  Maria  da 
Concei9§o  on  a  sinking  ship  off  Bio  Grande ;  she,  too,  called  on 
him,  and  he  saved  her.  One  board  certifies  that  a  man,  severe 
ly  afflicted  with  spasms,  was  cured  in  a  moment  by  Our  Lady 
of  Pleasures,  to  whom  he  offered  the  votive  acknowledgment. 
On  a  large  tablet  a  wild  man  is  crouching  in  the  woods,  like  an 
other  Orson,  and  gazing  at  a  white  man  and  three  negroes.  The 
writing  below  tells  us  that  the  poor  fellow  had  become  insane, 
and,  flying  to  the  forest,  lived  like  a  beast ;  but  his  wife,  Pau 
lina  Maria  da  Concei9ao,  had  great  devotion  to  the  Holy  Ghost, 
by  whose  miraculous  interference  the  maniac  crept  out  of  his 
lair,  and  went  quietly  home  with  the  four  messengers  sent  for 
him.  The  painting  represents  him  at  the  moment  when  they 
first  came  in  sight  of  him. 

June  11.   Annoyed  last  night  by  musquitoes.      The  little 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  353 

house  lizards  are  a  blessing,  since  they  hunt  these  pests  without 
ceasing.  I  found  one  on  the  wall  near  my  pillow,  and  secured 
it  in  a  glass  shade.  Though  they  dart  up  and  down  the  sides 
of  rooms,  I  have  not x  yet  detected  one  moving  across  the  ceiling. 
The  prisoner  climbed  the  sides  of  the  glass  quite  readily  when 
they  were  dry,  but  when  wetted  it  could  not  keep  itself  from 
sliding  down.  The  sucker-apparatus  by  which  they  are  sup 
posed  to  suspend  themselves  against  gravity  I  could  not  detect 
through  the  glass.  Their  feet  are  furnished  with  minute  claws. 
They  have  their  enemies,  for  our  noble  cat,  allied  to  the  wild 
species,  has  a  hoarse  cough,  the  effect  of  having  lunched  too 
freely  on  them  this  morning. 

This  is  Corpus  Christi,  a  great  day  with  Eomanists  every 
where.  Here,  the  emperor,  his  court,  senators,  and  soldiers  join 
in  the  procession.  It  is  the  only  occasion  on  which  /St.  George 
appears  in  public.  Mounted  on  his  charger,  he,  in  his  official 
character  of  Defender  of  the  Empire,  takes  the  precedence. 
Prince  and  people  walk  behind  him.  As  the  Church's  cham 
pion,  he  heads  her  squadrons  too.  Not  having  been  so  fortu 
nate  as  to  find  his  residence  once  open  during  repeated  calls,  I 
must  attend,  if  only  to  become  acquainted  with  a  character  so 
popular  with  Protestants  and  papists  as  this  chief  of  dragon- 
killers. 

The  morning  papers  announce  that  "the  Board  of  Directors 
of  the  Brotherhood  of  the  glorious  St.  George  invite  the  breth 
ren  to  attend  at  his  chapel  at  9  A.M.,  to  accompany  him  in  the 
Procession  of  the  Body  of  God.  The  image  will  pass  through 
Theatre  Square,  Piolho,  and  Cadeia  Streets,  to  the  Imperial 
Chapel,  and  return  through  Dereita,  Alfandega,  and  Fogo 
Streets,  to  his  chapel  in  Rua  do  Lampadoza." 

As  George  is  the  only  saint  that  goes  on  horseback,  I  de 
termined  to  call  upon  him.  The  streets  were  thronged  with 
people  hoping  against  hope,  for  the  sky  was  lowering.  The 
early  morning  promised  a  splendid  day.  The  Corcovado,  in 
verdant  vesture,  and  set  oif  with  the  bright  ethereal  ground  be 
hind  him,  reared  his  head  in  glorious  relief,  as  if  he,  too,  had 
donned  his  best  in  honor  of  the  festival,  and  was  waiting  for  it 
to  begin.  Within  an  hour  he  shrunk  out  of  sight,  for  the  smil 
ing  heavens  put  on  a  face  of  sorrow,  and  at  length  burst  into 

Z 


354 


SKETCHES   OF 


tears.  I  found  a  troop  of  cavalry  in  front  of  his  shabby  quar 
ters  waiting  to  escort  him  to  the  Imperial  Chapel,  where  the  em 
peror,  ministers  of  state,  the  Legislature,  judges,  provincial  gov 
ernors,  and  the  elite  of  the  army  and  Church  were  ready  to  re 
ceive  him.  A  native  of  the  East,  his  fane  reminds  one  of  Ara 
bian  palaces  with  exteriors  indicative  of  poverty's  abodes. 
Here  is  neither  steeple,  tower,  nor  clock ;  no  vestibule,  railings, 
steps,  nor  even  flagging,  to  separate  its  precincts  from  the  com 
mon  carriage-way.  The  front  elevation  resembles  the  gable  end 
of  a  barn — no  higher,  wider,  and  hardly  more  tasteful.  The 
sill  is,  of  any  thing,  below  the  wet  and  clammy  pavement.  All 
things  look  mean  about  it — even  the  curtain  that  hangs  between 
the  door-jambs  is  faded,  worn  out,  and  borrowed  from  "  Luzia," 
whose  name  is  wrought  on  it. 

We  push  it  aside,  and  find  the  walls  rough,  and  rafters  bare, 
the  damp  floor  giving  way  under  one's  feet,  while  bits  of  old 
carpet  cover  the  worst  spots.  Passing  by  the  committee  on 
portraits,  we  discover  the  saint  standing  in  full  dress  against  the 
wall,  waiting  for  the  weather  to  clear  up.  Females  crowd  to 
kiss  his  hand,  courtesy  to  him,  and  some  sit  down  in  front  to 
admire  him.  He  wears  a  plumed  helmet,  a  cambric  tippet  frill 
ed  round  his  neck,  a  crimson  tunic 
with  skirts  reaching  to  his  knees, 
black  leggins  with  large  spurs ;  his 
feet  are  already  in  the  stirrups,  which 
are  attached  to  his  thighs  instead  of 
the  saddle.  He  grasps  a  shield  in 
one  hand,  and  a  baton  in  the  other. 
A  mantle  lies  ready  to  throw  over 
him  when  mounted.  A  short  sword 
is  at  his  waist,  and  muslin  frills  at 
his  wrists.  His  stature  is  that  of 
an  ordinary-sized  soldier,  but  his 
ST.  GEORGE.  ™  ruddy,  smooth  face,  without  beard, 

whiskers,  or  mustache,  is  "hot  like  a  warrior's.  His  horse  is  in 
a  neighboring  stable.  His  helmet,  corslet,  and  armlets  are  of 
pasteboard,  colored  in  imitation  of  steel ;  the  shield  is  of  tin 
plate.  At  2  P.M.,  no  signs  of  the  weather  improving,  the 
troops  were  dismissed  and  the  procession  given  up. 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  355 

I  called  at  the  Imperial  Chapel  on  my  way  home,  and  found 
it  crowded.  Two  rows  of  halberdiers,  extending  from  the  en 
trance  to  the  altar,  had  just  formed  a  passage  for  a  miniature 
procession.  The  organ  was  playing  and  eunuchs  singing,  and 
so  foul  was  the  air  that  two  negroes  dropped  and  were  borne 
out  as  dead.  I  found  it  impossible  to  remain  in  five  minutes 
without  approaching  the  door  for  fresh  air.  The  programme 
was  at  length  arranged :  first  came  chanting  eunuchs,  the  broth 
erhood  with  candles,  priests,  and  canons  ;  the  body  of  God  un 
der  a  canopy,  the  emperor  with  a  lighted  candle,  ministers  of 
state  and  others,  with  their  sons  in  court  costumes,  reminding 
one  of  Tom  Thumbs  in  morris  dances.  Then  followed  the 
guard  with  their  burnished  spears.  In  this  order  the  whole 
passed  three  times  up  and  down  the  floor,  and  so  wound  up  the 
official  ceremonies  of  the  day. 

I  subsequently  called  with  a  friend  on  the  "  Defender  of  the 
Brazilian  Empire,"  and  was  not  a  little  surprised  to  find  him 
stowed  away  in  a  dark  closet,  and  stripped  as  clean  as  if  a  troop 
of  Ishmaelites  or  Camanches  had  met  him.  He  had  not  a  rag 

to  his  back.  As  his  equestrian  atti 
tudes  required  something  more  than  a 
stiff  statue,  I  now  saw  how  the  posi 
tions  of  his  limbs  were  varied.  He 
was  sitting  on  a  trestle,  and  is  made 
in  all  respects  like  a  jointed  doll.  His 
charger,  a  present  from  the  emperor, 
the  sacristan  denounces  as  "a  wicked 
beast,"  for  dishonoring  the  saint  last 
year  by  kicking  and  shying,  so  that 
but  for  Our  Lady's  aid  he  would  have 
ST.  GEORGE  IN  UNDRESS.  been  thrown  to  the  ground !  The  im 
age  is  an  old  one,  of  hard  and  heavy  wood.  One  horse  was 
trained  to  kneel  till  it  was  properly  adjusted  to  the  saddle. 

In  reply  to  a  remark  about  the  saint's  nudity,  the  zealous  sa 
cristan  almost  shed  tears  while  telling  us  that  the  Church  was 
too  poor  to  buy  him  any  clothing.  "  We  contract  with  an  ar- 
mador  to  dress  him  on  his  festival,  and  that  is  all  we  can  do. 
In  Lisbon  the  saint  receives  the  salary  of  a  lieutenant  colonel, 
and  his  chapel  there  is  very  rich." 


356  SKETCHES   OF 

Showmen  in  the  Campo  offer  the  following  attractions : 

"  In  the  Barraca  of  Good  Taste  there  will  be  an  extraordi 
nary  divertisement  on  the  day  of  the  Body  of  God. 

"  In  the  Theatro  Magico,  a  Representation  in  Three  Parts  : 
Part  1.  The  Passion  of  our  Lord,  viz.,  The  Birth — St.  Joseph 
—Garden  of  Olives — Holy  Magdalen — The  Tortures — St.  Pe 
ter — Our  Lord  of  the  Paces — St.  George — The  Crucifixion — 
St.  John  Baptist — The  Resurrection — The  Holy  Virgin.  Part 
2.  Cosmoramic  Views.  Part  3.  Diverting  Phantasmagoria  : 
The  Sorcerer — Flying  Death's  Head — The  Parisian  Galatea — 
The  Changed  Head — Don  Quixote — Walking  Woman — Gar 
den  of  Love  and  the  Monster.  To  conclude  with 

"THEEE  CATS  DANCING  THE  POLKA." 

Of  religious  plays  and  interludes  by  which  the  day  was  cele 
brated  in  the  Middle  Ages,  The  Passion  of  our  Lord  was  one ; 
The  Creation,  Deluge,  Susannah,  Dives  and  Lazarus,  Burial  of 
Christ,  and  scores  taken  neither  from  the  Old  Testament  nor  the 
New,  were  others.  Even  the  whiskered  artists  are  not  modern, 
though  the  part  assigned  them  may  be.  At  Aix,  on  this  fes 
tival,  the  finest  cat  of  the  country,  wrapped  in  swaddling-clothes 
like  a  child,  was  exhibited  in  a  shrine  to  public  admiration. 

The  burial  was  performed  in  two  or  three  parishes,  but  I  did 
not  attend.  Passing  by  the  Candelaria,  I  stepped  in  for  a  mo 
ment.  The  panel  in  front  of  an  altar  was  removed,  exposing  a 
dead  Christ,  as  represented  below. 


LIFE    IN    BRAZIL. 


357 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 

Crockery- wares  :    Talhas. — Monkey. — Moringues. — Furnaces,  Flower-pots,  etc. — 
Water-baril. — Scrubbing-brush. — Mortars. — Fuel. 

AN  element  of  domestic  life,  and  a  chief  item  of  household 
furniture,  Brazilian  crockery-ware  is  interesting  to  a  stranger. 
The  articles  bear  little  resemblance  to  those  in  our  kitchens,  and 
some  are  obvious  modifications  of  aboriginal  patterns.  With 
the  exception  of  portable  furnaces  (Fig.  8  in  the  above  group) 
and  a  few  garden-pots  (6),  the  entire  cargoes  of  boats  often  con 
sist  of  talhas  and  moringues — that  is,  of  vessels  to  hold,  and 
others  from  which  to  drink  water.  The  material  is  a  light  red, 
porous  clay,  slightly  baked,  and  unglazed.  A  penknife  will 
readily  drill  a  hole  through  it.  The  wares  made  in  the  neigh 
borhood  of  Eio  are  not  to  be  compared  with  the  fabrics  of  Ba- 
hia,  so  much  superior  are  the  latter.  A  fine  white  clay  is  found 
there. 

Every  house  has  a  talha  (Fig.  1  of  the  group)  standing  in  the 
corner  of  a  room  or  passage,  and  holding  from  ten  to  fifteen  gal 
lons.  A  slave  keeps  it  filled  from  the  street  fountains.  Fre 
quently  the  bottom  is  rounded,  and  then  it  rests  in  a  wooden 


358  SKETCHES    OF 

stand  or  table,  half  of  it  passing  through  an  opening  cut  in  the 
top.  2,  3,  4,  5  are  variations.  In  the  latter  the  neck  is  shaped 
like  a  human  bust,  and  the  hat-crown  is  the  lid.  No.  7  is  the 
figure  of  a  vase  occasionally  seen  at  the  fountains. 

I  have  not  seen  a  European  pitcher,  or  any  thing  like  one,  in 
a  native  dwelling.  Home-made  substitutes  are  cheaper,  keep 
their  contents  cooler,  and  on  other  grounds  are  preferred.  They 
form  the  class  of  water-pots  next  to  talhas,  and  among  them  the 
"  monkey"  is  pre-eminent.  Met  with  every  where,  it  is  em 
phatically  the  "  pitcher  of  Brazil."  See  figure  a,  page  359. 
Two  sizes  are  in  general  use — one  holding  a  gallon  and  a  half, 
and  the  other  two  and  a  half.  The  monkey  is  an  ancient  mo- 
ringue  enlarged ;  I  think  it  is  the  only  vessel  used  in  Rio  with 
two  spouts,  an  attribute  common  to  old  South  American  pot 
tery,  and  not  confined  to  it.*  The  larger  orifice  or  tube  is  an 
inch  bore,  the  other  a  quarter  of  an  inch.  On  filling  the  vessel 
at  the  former,  the  air  within  escapes  through  the  latter,  and 
vice  versa  when  the  contents  are  discharging.  Instead  of  using 
a  tumbler,  the  old  Portuguese  and  country  people  slip  the  small 
tube  into  their  mouths,  and  slake  their  thirst  as  we  do  when  we 
salute  the  lips  of  pitchers.  Corks  or  wooden  plugs  to  close  the 
orifices  are  often  seen  attached  by  strings  to  the  bale  or  handle 
(the  curved  strip  between  the  two  spouts).  They  serve  to  ex 
clude  ants,  air,  dust,  etc.  The  monkey,  independent  of  its  wa 
ter-cooling  properties,  deserves  the  attention  of  North  American 
potters.  It  has  advantages  sufficient  to  justify  its  general  in 
troduction  among  us. 

The  figures  &,  c,  d,  e  are  specimens  of  table  moringues,  con 
taining  two  to  three  pints.  Smaller  ones  are  figured  at  i,  i  / 
with  their  covers,  these  are  made  in  imitation  of  pine-apples  and 
other  fruit.  Earthenware  decanters  (h)  are  common.  These 
porous  vessels,  by  promoting  evaporation,  keep  their  contents 
cooler  than  glass  ones ;  hence  the  preference  to  drink  water  at 
dinner,  as  the  expression  is,  "from  the  clay."  All  have  cov 
ers,  which  are  removed  and  replaced  at  every  sip. 

"  Gurgling  moringues"  are  such  as  have  the  openings  into 
the  bodies  made  intentionally  small.  Like  similar  toys  in 
vogue  in  the  Middle  Ages,  they  embarrass  no  little  those  who 

*  See  a  Grecian  vase  on  plate  33,  Traite  des  Arts  Ceramiques,  Paris,  1844. 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL. 


359 


unsuspectingly  attempt  to  quench  thirst  from  them.  A  section 
of  one  is  seen  at  j. 

A  view  of  an  Indian  moringue  is  shown  at  r — an  interesting 
variety  of  conceits  of  red-skinned  potters.  A  hunter's  flask,  it 
has  loops  by  which  to  sling  it  over  the  shoulder.  Its  capacity 
is  about  a  quart.  It  has  two  external  openings,  both  quite 
small :  one  in  the  breast  of  the  bird,  the  other  in  the  bottom, 
through  which  it  is  filled.  A  tube,  as  seen  by  the  dotted  lines, 
extends  from  each  opening  to  nearly  the  opposite  extremity  of 
the  interior.  To  charge  this  vessel,  it  is  inverted,  and  water 
poured  into  the  hollow  base,  which  serves  as  a  funnel.  When 
the  liquid  rises  till  it  begins  to  enter  the  orifice  of  the  other 
tube,  the  vessel  then  is  turned  to  its  first  position.  By  apply 
ing  the  mouth  to  the  breast  of  the  bird,  the  contents  are  sucked 
up— an  operation  simple  and  easy.  The  orifice  terminates 
sometimes  in  the  mouths  of  birds  and  animals.  These  vessels 
are  on  sale  in  shops,  and  come  from  the  northern  provinces, 
where  most  of  the  potters  are  Indians. 

The  only  apologies  for  mugs  that  came  under  my  notice  were 


360  SKETCHES   OF 

very  rough  affairs.  (See  v.)  They  are  probably  designed  for 
slaves,  being  used  to  heat  water  in  as  well  as  to  drink  out  of. 
A  wash-bowl  and  basin  from  Bahia  are  seen  at  fi  g.  They  are 
highly  painted,  but  poorly  burned. 

Figure  9  of  the  first  group,  and  figure  k  of  the  second,  are 
the  common  censers.  Placed  on  the  floor,  a  few  dried  leaves 
of  alecrim,  a  native  species  of  rosemary,  are  dropped  011  the 
coals,  when  a  strong  acrid  vapor  rises  and  pervades  every  crev 
ice.  Seeds  of  alfazema,  or  lavender,  are  imported  for  the  pur 
pose.  French  pastiles  are  employed  by  the  wealthy. 

With  the  foregoing,  the  reader  has  not  only  fair  samples,  but 
a  compend  of  the  pottery  fabrics  of  Brazil. 

T  is  the  universal,  omnipresent  "  baril,"  with  which  the  head 
of  every  slave  is  familiar.  A  natural  and  durable,  as  well  as 
cheap  scrubbing-brush,  is  shown  at  m,  n — two  halves  of  the 
husk  of  a  cocoa-nut.  This  article  is  much  used  for  scouring 
floors,  as  fibrous  threads  are  developed  by  use,  and  continue  to 
project  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  from  the  face  as  long  as  the 
shell  lasts. 

The  god  Pilumnus  reigns  as  powerful  here  as  in  the  East. 
R,  S  show  the  common  wooden  mortar  and  pestle  of  the  coun 
try,  the  former  standing  about  three  feet  high,  and  the  latter 
nearly  as  long  as  the  slave  that  wields  it.  In  material  and  di 
mensions  they  are  fac-similes  of  those  found  portrayed  in  old 
Egyptian  kitchens,  are  identical  with  those  of  classical  nations, 
and  such  as  are  still  common  in  India,  China,  and,  in  fact, 
throughout  the  Oriental  world.  Not  till  I  saw  them  did  I  per 
ceive  the  appositeness  of  the  aphorism  of  Solomon  about  the 
braying  of  fools.  Some  are  large  enough  to  squeeze  a  man  into 
them. 

Fuel. — The  native  fuel  of  Rio  is  charcoal  and  wood.  The 
latter  is  quite  small,  the  sticks  seldom  running  two  feet  in  length, 
and  over  an  inch  and  a  half  thick.  Bundles  consisting  of  ten 
of  these  are  sold  by  the  quantity  at  two  cents  each.  The  Bay 
steamers  raise  steam  with  similar  bundles,  except  that  the  sticks 
are  somewhat  thicker ;  but  of  vast  piles  on  the  steamers'  docks, 
hardly  a  stick  could  be  found  four  inches  thick. 


LIFE  IN    BRAZIL.  3(31 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

A  Trip  to  Macacu. — Steam  up  the  Bay. — Prospects. — Slaves. — Sambayratiba. — 
Dense  Mist. — Bed-chamber. — Attacked  by  Rats. — Extent  of  the  Pest. — Sugar- 
house. — Stingless  Bees. — Sheep. — Dogs  without  Tails. — Visit  other  Estates. — 
Wasps'  and  Ants'  Nests. — The  Rats  again. — Scenes  in  the  Forest. — Sipos. — 
Spoon  Wheels. — Female  Slaves  making  Brick. — Chigres. — Muleteers  camping. 
— Estate  of  the  Carmelites. — Mules. 

June  13.  The  anniversary  of  Anthony  of  Padua,  a  cease 
less  racket  was  kept  up  all  last  night  to  his  honor ;  and. now, 
rockets,  Roman  candles,  bonfires,  music,  vivas,  bells,  guns, 
bombs,  and  every  noise-making  device,  are  the  order  of  the  day. 
Were  he  the  god  of  fire  and  brimstone,  they  could  not  treat  him 
to  a  greater  variety  of  sulphurous  compounds.  I  am  well-nigh 
tired  of  the  holy  clatter  of  the  city,  its  sacred  shows  and  eccle 
siastic  toy-shops  ;  and  if  the  reader  prefer  a  week's  jaunt  into 
the  country,  he  will  join  a  party  of  us  bound  this  morning  for 
Macacu. 

In  a  diminutive  steamer  we  pushed  through  a  crowd  of  faluas 
and  canoes,  passed  the  foreign  shipping,  and  sought  the  upper 
waters  of  the  Bay.  Among  the  passengers  were  a  couple  of 
planters,  in  scarlet  vests  and  ponchos,  tight-fitting  white  pants 
ending  in  yellow,  sagging  boots,  to  which  enormous  and  far-pro 
jecting  spurs  were  strapped,  suggesting  the  idea  of  human  roost 
ers  prepared  for  battle  in  a  cock-pit ;  and  with  this  their  volu 
bility  and  gesticulations  accorded,  for  one  moment  they  would 
start  back  as  if  each  took  the  other  for  an  adder,  the  next  the 
shorter  one  whispers  in  the  long  one's  ear,  and  a  mutual  distor 
tion  of  mouths  and  shrugging  of  shoulders  follow. 

The  scenes  around  us  were  exhilarating,  and  the  air  delicious 
in  temperature  and  freshness.  We  passed  Governor's  Island, 
and  numerous  insulated  rocks,  one  standing  like  a  column  on  a 
larger  one  for  its  base,  all  bleached  like  chalk,  and  as  bare  of 
vegetation.  Boats  were  at  anchor  among  them  fishing  up  shells 
for  lime-kilns.  We  swept  past  Paqueta,  the  Capri  of  Rio,  and 
the  favorite  island  retreat  of  the  old  king.  At  3  P.M.  we  were 


362  SKETCHES   OF 

aground  within  a  mile  of  the  mouth  of  the  Macacu  River.  The 
boat  drew  but  thirty  inches,  and  for  some  time  the  wheels  had 
been  working  in  mud.  One  or  two  sailing-boats  now  passed 
us,  and  played  off  jokes  common  on  the  Hudson  in  the  early 
days  of  steam — offering  to  report  us,  to  take  our  mail,  etc.  In 
half  an  hour  the  tide  rose  and  we  ran  in.  White  herons,  stalk 
ing  along  the  shores,  tempted  some  sportsmen  aboard,  but  after 
each  shot  the  birds  arose,  and  threw  their  long  legs  behind  them 
as  if  in  derision  of  the  gunners.  Haifa  mile  wide  at  its  mouth, 
the  stream  rapidly  narrows,  and  becomes  crooked  as  a  moving 
serpent.  The  water  is  turbid,  and  the  banks  but  little  above 
it.  Dense  shrubbery  extends  at  the  left  over  an  impenetrable 
swamp  for  forty  or  fifty  miles,  and  at  the  right  for  five  or  six, 
with  occasional  cultivated  patches.  Here  are  said  to  be  two 
hundred  leagues  of  morass,  ever  pregnant  with  malaria,  and 
solely  occupied  by  wild  beasts. 

We  passed  four  boats  laden  with  slaves,  part  of  a  cargo  just 
landed  east  of  Rio,  and  now  being  smuggled — if  the  term  can  be 
used  where  next  to  no  secresy  is  affected — down  to  Christoval, 
to  the  depot  near  the  palace.  Before  morning  they  will  be  dis 
persed,  and  in  a  few  days  all  at  work.  There  were  fifty  in  each 
boat,  all  young  men.  They  stood  up  on  passing  us,  surprised, 
probably,  at  a  steamer.  It  was  dark  when  we  landed  at  Porto 
de  Sampaio,  a  small  town,  where  there  was  not  room  for  the 
little  steamer  to  turn,  so  narrow  was  the  channel.  We  had  now 
seventeen  miles  to  go  by  land.  Out  of  a  troop  of  mules  ready 
saddled  we  selected  four,  had  spurs  strapped  to  our  heels,  and 
in  a  little  while  were  wending  our  way  through  a  woody  and 
wild-looking  country.  At  a  late  hour  we  arrived  at  Sambayra- 

tiba,  the  hospitable  fazenda  of  our  friends  J.  and  A.  B a,  a 

property  that  has  been  in  the  family  for  several  generations. 

14^A.  The  morning  opened  on  us  with  a  mist,  exceeding  in 
density  any  thing  of  the  kind  I  ever  saw  or  felt.  The  atmos 
phere  was  a  sea  of  aqueous  globules.  Two  small  birds  lighted 
on  a  tree  in  front  of  the  house,  and  instantly  a  drenching  show 
er  fell  from  the  leaves.  Even  humming-birds  shook  spray  from 
the  shrubbery.  Before  quitting  our  sleeping-apartments,  a 
slave  brought  in  strong  coffee  without  milk,  a  universal  custom, 
except  in  provinces  where  the  berry  is  not  grown,  and  there 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  363 

mate  is  taken  instead.  One  or  the  other  is  deemed  essential  to 
health,  and  perhaps  is  so,  in  consequence  of  the  morning  fogs. 
The  venerable  dwelling  of  our  hosts  is  a  low  one  of  stone,  with 
the  usual  central  court.  At  one  end  of  the  wide  stoop  or  corri 
dor  was  a  small  room  containing  two  cot  bedsteads,  and  on  a 
table  the  family  patrona,  the  Lady  Concei9ao,  in  a  glass  case, 
with  three  candles,  unlit,  before  her.  Another  shade  inclosed 
what  I  took  for  a  fancy  Swiss  figure,  as  it  was  draped  in  a 
roundabout  jacket,  trowsers,  sash,  and  a  wide  straw  hat.  It 
represented  the  Baptist,  to  whose  providence  and  that  of  "  Our 
Lady"  the  old  proprietors  had  committed  the  estate.  This  fa 
vored  dormitory  was  appropriated  to  H—  —  and  me ;  and  here, 
I  thought,  as  I  wrote  on  the  table,  is  something  very  like  an 
cient  penetralia  with  their  penates,  for  Greek  and  Roman  farm 
ers  had  wax  and  wooden  images  of  tutelary  deities  in  their  pri 
vate  chambers. 

H had  been  in  bed  some  time,  and  begged  me  to  retire 

and  put  out  the  light.  I  complied,  and  laid  down,  excessively 
fatigued.  A  few  moments  after  the  room  had  been  darkened, 
there  fell  what  I  took  for  a  storm  of  hail,  as  severe  as  any  in 
our  Northern  winters.  The  pattering  fairly  shook  the  low  roof. 
The  noise  for  an  instant  ceased,  and  in  another  was  renewed 

upon  the  floor !  Alarmed,  I  spoke  to  II ,  but  his  reply  was 

an  unmeaning  monosyllable.  In  the  act  of  calling  again,  some 
half  dozen  objects  fell  on  my  bed.  With  a  convulsive  shudder,  I 
kicked  off  the  sheet — the  only  covering — and  sent  one  against 
the  ceiling,  whence  I  heard  it  fall  on  the  table,  spring  thence  on 
the  floor,  and  scamper  across  it  with  a  squeak.  Agitated  as  I 
was,  my  companion  almost  made  my  soul  die  within  me  ;  for, 
turning  over  in  his  berth,  he  said,  in  a  half-awake  tone,  "  Why 
don't  you  lie  still  ?  they're  only  rats/' 

I  shall  not  tell  the  reader  how  long  I  sat  up  in  the  dark,  try 
ing  to  scare  the  vermin  away.  Not  all  the  shirs  and  hissings  I 
could  make,  nor  the  lashings  of  the  bed  and  floor  with  a  jacket, 
seemed  to  incommode  them.  On  the  foot  of  the  bed  some 
sprang  every  few  moments,  and  I  felt  them  pulling  my  garments 
out  of  my  grasp.  To  confess  the  truth,  I  was  half  frightened  to 
death,  assured,  if  I  laid  down,  they  would  be  on  my  head  and 
face.  The  first  dawn  never  was  more  welcomed  than  was  it 


364  SKETCHES   OF 

this  morning  to  me.  It  was  the  signal  for  the  troop  to  decamp. 
They  made  a  rush,  then  all  was  silent ;  next  followed  the  scam 
pering  over  the  roof,  and  they  were  gone. 

What  a  scene  the  light  brought  forth !  The  entire  floor  was 
sprinkled,  but  the  altar-table  was  fairly  covered  with  their  dung. 
It  is  no  exaggeration  to  say  that  the  cloth  and  writing-paper 
resembled,  at  the  distance,  thick  spotted  calico.  The  flat  can 
dlestick,  and  even  H 's  snuff-box,  in  like  manner  covered. 

One  half  of  a  new  pair  of  soft  leather  braces  was  carried  off;  its 
mate  had  gone  also,  but  the  burglars  not  having  eaten  quite 
through  the  loop  that  held  it  to  H—  — 's  pants,  the  latter  pre 
vented  them  from  taking  it ;  still,  had  the  opening  through  which 
they  had  dragged  it  been  somewhat  larger,  the  more  essential 
part  of  my  companion's  dress  had  vanished.  Every  atom  of 
the  candle  was  gone,  wick  and  all.  "Why,  here's  a  miracle," 
I  exclaimed ;  "  our  candle  has  vanished,  but  these  three  before 
the  images  are  untouched."  "  Oh,"  replied  my  companion,  "  the 
devils  know  better  than  touch  them :  they  can  not  digest  wax ; 
it  kills  them."  This  nightly  defilement  of  the  family  sanctuary 
is  horrible ;  so  far  from  the  images  being  any  protection,  glass 
alone  prevents  their  being  devoured.  Not  till  now  had  I  any 
adequate  idea  of  this  terrible  plague,  nor  of  the  worth  of  Ulrich, 
the  canonized  rat-killer  of  Augsburg. 

There  was  much  hearty  laughing  at  breakfast  at  my  dread 
of  the  nocturnal  marauders.  They  abound  throughout  the 
country,  do  not  harbor  in  houses,  but  come  down  from  the  hills 
at  nightfall,  and  retreat  at  daybreak.  Once  a  year  poison  is 
laid  for  them.  Garcilasso  la  Vega  has  a  chapter  on  the  "  in 
credible  number"  of  rats  in  his  day.  He  mentions  how  they 
swarmed  in  Peru,  Panama,  and  Nombre  de  Dios,  refers  to  an 
annual  proclamation  commanding  every  householder,  on  a  cer 
tain  day,  to  poison  them,  and  quotes  the  fact  of  the  crew  of  a 
vessel  going  ashore  at  Truxillo,  and  leaving  a  sick  man  aboard, 
who  was  attacked  by  them.  He  managed  to  get  a  spit  from 
the  cook's  berth,  and  with  it,  on  his  bed,  protected  himself  the 
whole  of  that  day  and  night.  When  his  associates  returned, 
they  found  three  hundred  and  eighty  rats  killed  by  his  spit,  be 
sides  many  wounded. 

The  estate  of  our  hosts  is  considered  a  small  one,  being  only 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  365 

half  a  league  square.  Inclosed  by  neighboring  mountains,  a 
considerable  part  is  forest-land.  The  stock  consists  of  thirty- 
six  mules,  forty  oxen  and  cows,  and  seventy  slaves,  old  and 
young — about  thirty  are  able-bodied.  Four  first-rate  hands 
and  two  children,  valued  at  $800,  recently  died  of  fever.  Man- 
dioca,  coffee,  beans,  pork,  and  mutton  are  raised  in  sufficient 
quantities  for  the  family  and  negroes.  The  staple  of  the  farm 
is  sugar.  Nothing  else  is  cultivated  for  sale.  The  crop  this 
season  is  a  fair  one,  and  is  expected  to  yield  four  hundred 
moulds  of  eighty  pounds  each,  which,  at  5  cents,  will  yield  only 
$1600 — a  miserable  sum  for  the  investment  of  so  much  capital, 
for  the  product  of  the  wear  and  tear  of  so  many  men,  and  ani 
mals,  and  other  costly  instrumentalities — a  sum,  too,  which  has 
to  be  diminished  by  the  cost  of  boxes,  transportation  to  market, 
commissions,  and  taxes. 

The  mill,  driven  by  mules,  is  the  one  of  the  last  century — the 
first  European  form  of  the  Asiatic  original — consisting  of  three 
vertical  wooden  rollers  cased  with  iron.  The  expressed  juice 
passed  through  a  log  into  the  adjoining  boiling-house,  where  the 
ordinary  process  of  concentration  was  followed.  Between  the 
mill  and  the  mansion  are  the  slaves'  huts.  Against  one  were 
stuck  up  two  small  cigar-boxes  —  hives  of  Abelhas  jurutys, 
little  bees.  Jurutys  is  an  Indian  diminutive.  These  honey- 
making  insects  are  slightly  thicker  in  the  head  and  body  than 
musquitoes,  for  which  I  at  first  took  them.  Their  cells  bear  no 
resemblance  to  those  of  our  bees.  The  comb  is,  in  color,  a  dark 
brown,  and  in  construction  it  reminds  one  of  that  of  ants'  nests. 
Extremely  sensitive  to  atmospheric  influences,  they  close  every 
joint  of  their  dwellings,  and  at  night  lock  themselves  so  close 
that  neither  robbers  nor  damp  air  can  invade  them,  the  only 
door  being  as  regularly  opened  and  closed  as  the  gates  of  a  for 
tified  city.  They  never  open  it  till  the  sun  has  been  some  time 
up,  and  invariably  close  it  before  the  evening  dew  begins  to 
fall.  I  made  it  a  point  to  observe,  morning  and  evening,  the 
door-keepers  at  work. 

A  quarter-inch  gimlet-hole  made  through  one  side  of  each 
hive  is  the  only  place  of  exit  and  entrance.  Over  it  the  little 
artists  form  a  short  tube  of  wax,  and  curve  it  upward  till  the 
aperture  is  horizontal.  In  a  morning  the  orifice  is  opened  and 


366  SKETCHES   OF 

the  edges  flared  out;  in  the  evening  the  material  is  gathered 
mto  a  bulb  or  dome,  like  the  sealed  end  of  a  barometer-tube. 
These  bees  are  stingless,  but  singularly  courageous,  since  they 
drive  from  their  neighborhoods  the  common  bee. 

I  have  mentioned  the  general  appearance  of  Brazilian  sheep. 
The  ram  on  this  estate  was  of  the  Mozambique  breed — black, 
except  the  nose  and  tip  of  the  tail ;  small  and  sharp  ears ; 
agile,  and  with  very  little  hair  or  wool  on  his  body,  but  with  a 
mane  full  and  shaggy  as  a  lion's.  A  noble  animal,  he  stood 
nearly  six  inches  higher  than  the  tallest  ewes. 

Here  is  a  herd  of  large  dogs,  something  between  the  grey 
hound  and  the  wolf,  of  a  dun  color,  short  hair,  and  without  the 
least  indication  of  tails.  They  have  four  large  fangs  in  front, 
two  above  and  two  below.  A  smaller  species  have  two  or  three 
inches  of  tail,  appearing  to  a  stranger  as  docked.  At  Sampaio 
was  a  mastiff-looking  pup  without  the  shadow  of  one.  If  I 
believed  in  man's  quadrumanous  descent,  I  would  quote  these 
to  sustain  the  hypothesis,  since  all  the  dogs  of  the  earth  are  de 
rived  by  naturalists  from  long-tailed  progenitors.  Of  Brazilian 
quadrupeds  destitute  of  a  caudal  appendage,  the  paca  is  one. 
It  has  given  rise  to  a  popular  form  of  rebuke :  A  vaunting  em 
igrant,  returning  from  a  hunt  without  game,  asserted  that  he  had 
run  to  its  burrow  one  of  these  animals,  which  escaped  him, 
though  not  till  he  had  deprived  it  of  its  tail.  Hence  of  a  vain 
boaster  it  is  said,  "  He'll  cut  off  a  paca's  tail." 

Accompanied  by  Senhor  J ,  and  mounted  on  mules, 

Messrs.  M ,  H ,  and  myself  started  to  visit  some  neigh 
boring  fazendas.  At  a  league's  distance  we  came  to  the  8u- 
midouro  estate,  the  property  of  an  ex-deputy  and  state  council 
or.  The  mill,  of  the  latest  construction,  was,  with  the  steam- 
engine  that  drives  it,  imported  from  England.  The  crushing 
cylinders  are  horizontal,  and  the  cane  passes  through  twice  at 
one  operation.  Here  were  four  evaporating  pans.  At  every 
sugar  plantation  the  molasses  is  distilled  into  cacha9a ;  and 
here,  as  at  others,  were  enormous  hogsheads  in  which  the  spirit 
is  stored,  and  whence  it  is  drawn  for  sale. 

Here  200  slaves  are  employed  and  100  oxen.  About  four 
teen  moulds  are  filled  daily  (  =  1200  Ibs.  of  sugar)  during  the 
season.  The  proprietor,  a  fine,  fat  old  gentleman,  was  sitting 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  357 

in  the  engine-house.  He  has  recently  buried  his  wife,  and  is 
paralytic.  Infant  negroes  were  playing  about  him,  and  one 
stood  between  his  knees.  His  negroes,  he  said,  were  his  chil 
dren,  and  truly  he  seemed  to  treat  them  as  such.  One  of  the 
oldest  fabricas  in  the  province,  this  is  admitted  to  be  the  best 
conducted ;  yet  he  said  it  yielded  no  profit.  He  dislikes  slav 
ery,  but  thinks  white  laborers  can  not  supersede  it  in  Brazil. 

Leaving,  we  came  to  the  borders  of  a  lake,  where  the  dogs 
started  an  alligator.  Here  waved  the  conical  lilac  crests  of  the 
matured  sugar-plant,  towering  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  above  the 
ground — a  beautiful  sight.  We  came  to  a  shanty,  which  turned 
out  a  venda  for  the  sale  of  soap,  shoes,  cacha9a,  and  straw  and 
willow  wares  made  by  tamed  Indians.  Continuing  on,  we  pass 
ed  under  a  tree,  from  which  a  flock  of  parrakeets  flew  chattering 
away.  Near  by  was  an  ant's  nest,  built  on  a  fence  of  stakes — 
an  irregular,  hard,  and  brown  mass  of  clay,  three  feet  high,  as 
many  wide,  and  two  feet  thick.  I  stopped  at  another,  of  the  form 
of  a  huge  pine-apple,  nearly  four  feet  in  diameter,  and  full  five 
feet  high,  built  in  a  tree.  It  is  wonderful  how  creatures  so  mi 
nute  manage  to  carry  these  masses  of  matter  to  such  elevations. 

At  the  "Engenho  d'Agoa,"  a  twelve-foot  undershot  wheel, 
with  buckets  only  fifteen  inches  wide,  drove  three  jacaranda 
stampers  for  husking  rice  in  wooden  mortars.  In  the  carpen 
ter's  shop  wagons  were  being  made  by  slaves,  the  little  adze  in 
their  hands  bringing  wheels  and  felloes  into  form  to  admiration. 
Old  rose-wood  axle-trees  lay  about,  rendered  useless  by  fire 
evolved  from  their  friction.  We  returned  before  dark,  after  as 
picturesque  a  ramble  as  man  ever  enjoyed. 

Determined  to  have  what  I  so  greatly  needed,  some  rest,  I 
began  to  block  out  our  midnight  tormentors.  The  flooring- 
planks  were  eaten  away,  more  or  less,  along  the  four  sides  of 
the  room.  A  tin  trunk,  old  shoes,  chair-feet,  walking-sticks,  and 

umbrellas,  were  put  in  requisition.  M and  II came 

in  and  assisted.  There  was  a  small  library  in  a  closet,  and  a 
score  of  octavos  and  quartos  were  employed.  To  my  surprise, 

Senhor  M did  not  hesitate  to  fold  up  an  old  missal  to  plug 

one  hole.  The  butt-end  of  a  musket  was  dropped  into  a  cor 
ner  cavity,  that  the  invaders  probably  deemed  the  key  of  the 
fortress. 


368  SKETCHES  OF 

The  light  had  certainly  not  "been  out  a  minute  before  the  roof 
rattled  as  before ;  a  pause  ensued,  during  which  the  burglars 
were  descending  by  unknown  passages  to  the  under  side  of  the 
floor;  anon  they  were  working  at  our  barricades.  First  one, 
and  then  another  gave  way.  A  few  spies  entered,  scampered 
over  the  floor,  jumped  on  the  table  and  the  beds,  squeaked  in 
telligence  to  those  that  sent  them,  and  in  a  twinkling  the  horde 
rushed  in.  I  was  at  my  wits'  end,  while  my  acclimated  dozing 
friend  cared  not  one  whit  whether  they  were  in  or  out.  They 
drew  off  at  4  A.M.,  and  not  till  then  did  I  get  a  wink  of  sleep. 
It  is  a  curious  fact,  that  an  individual  or  two  led  off  in  the  re 
treat  every  night,  while  a  couple  of  whippers-in  staid  a  few  mo 
ments  behind,  their  tread  being  quite  distinct. 

16^.  By  9  A.M.  five  of  us  were  mounted  for  another  day's 
ride,  accompanied  by  the  manager  of  the  slaves,  himself  a  Par- 
do,  and,  therefore,  not  allowed  to  wear  shoes.  To  his  naked 
heels  spurs  were  strapped.  The  popular  dentivee,  a  bird  as 
large  as  a  robin,  ever  and  anon  saluted  us,  while  flocks  of  the 
tiniest  of  the  parrot  family  flew  about  us.  We  entered  at  one 
spot  the  primeval  forest  by  what  seemed  a  foot-path,  having 
constantly  to  stop  to  avoid  being  unhorsed  by  the  branches.  A 
few  trees  were  from  three  to  six  feet  in  diameter,  and  rose  to 
great  elevations ;  such  were  the  sapocaias,  favorite  haunts  of 
monkeys.  Our  dogs  started  pacas  and  other  game,  but  neither 
horsemen  nor  footmen  could  follow  them,  so  dense  and  dark  the 
interior  became.  The  eye  could  not  penetrate  over  twenty  feet, 
and  sometimes  not  ten. 

SipoS)  or  vegetable  cordage,  of  every  size,  from  thread  to  ca 
bles,  hung  down  from  aloft,  and  ran  hither  and  thither,  thick 
almost  as  the  rigging  of  ships,  and  quite  as  flexible.  They 
constitute  quite  a  feature  of  Brazilian  forests,  and  are  used 
throughout  the  country  as  ligatures  in  buildings,  in  fences,  and 
a  thousand  other  purposes.  They  are  known  as  the  "nails  of 
Brazil."  A  story  is  current  that  the  Jesuits  sought  to  obtain 
from  the  crown  of  Portugal  a  monopoly  in  them,  and  that  the 
monarch  was  no  little  surprised  to  hear  that  the  Indians  used 
pregos,  which  he  supposed  were  like  those  of  Europe,  made  of 
iron. 

Emerging  from  the  woods,  we  met  a  mounted  party,  a  lady, 


LIFE   IN    BRAZIL.  369 

four  gentlemen,  and  a  monk,  whose  wide  and  white  felt  hat,  cas 
sock,  scapulary,  and  bare  legs  gave  a  piquant  feature  to  the 
group.  They  were  members  of  the  Araujo  family,  to  one  of 
whose  fazendas  we  were  traveling ;  one  named  after  the  stream 
on  which  it  is  located,  Rio  das  Pedras.  Its  sugar  product 
this  season  is  estimated  at  two  thousand  moulds  of  eighty 
pounds  each.  Here  we  found  a  water-wheel  forty  feet  in  di 
ameter  and  only  three  wide ;  also  another  species,  common  in 
the  Middle  Ages :  from  a  vertical  or  inclined  shaft  spokes  ra 
diate,  and  have  their  extremities  formed  into  spoons.  Water 
brought  down  a  deep  descent  in  a  close  tube  is  directed  against 
these,  and  by  its  impulse  drives  them  round. 

Belidor  figures  and  describes  similar  wheels  used  for  driving 
grist-mills  in  Provence  and  Dauphiny  in  his  time,  but  they  are 
met  with  in  authors  centuries  before  he  wrote.  Thus  Dante  : 

"  Never  ran  water  with  such  hurrying  pace 
Adown  the  tube  to  turn  a  land-mill's  wheel, 
When  nearest  it  approaches  to  the  spokes, 
As  then  along  that  edge  my  master  ran." — Hell,  canto  23. 

Brick  and  tiles  are  made  on  this  estate  in  large  quantities. 
Under  a  shed  were  young  and  middle-aged  negras,  naked  save 
a  piece  of  skirt  tied  on,  and  some  with  infants  slung  at  their 
backs,  bending  over  benches  and  pressing  the  clay  into  moulds, 
their  arms  and  legs  covered  and  their  faces  marked  with  it. 

Chigres  swarmed  on  the  hot  sand ;  they  ran  up  our  legs  and 
walking-sticks.  Black  and  small  as  dots  of  the  letter  i  on  this 
page,  they  quickly  burrow  under  the  skin.  There  is  not  a 
slave  but  has  more  or  less  in  his  feet.  When  not  extracted 
within  two  days,  each  forms  a  bag  and  fills  it  with  eggs.  Even 
then  little  inconvenience  is  felt ;  but  care  is  taken  to  extract  the 
tough  sack  (about  the  size  of  a  small  pea)  before  its  living  con 
tents  are  ready  to  burst  forth.  An  old  slave  is  charged  on  every 
plantation  with  this  duty. 

After  leaving  the  "  Collegio,"  another  splendid  estate  belong 
ing  to  the  same  wealthy  owners,  we  came  up  with  three  troops 
of  muleteers,  who  had  unloaded  their  beasts  and  encamped  for 
the  night.  Each  had  formed  with  their  hampers  and  bags  three 
sides  of  a  quadrangle,  within  which  some  were  lounging,  while 
others  were  kindling  a  fire  in  front.  Their  animals,  not  less 

AA 


370  SKETCHES   OF 

than  a  hundred,  were  grazing  close  by.  The  whole  was  vividly 
illustrative  of  scenes  in  Spanish  life,  and  of  incidents  in  Don 
Quixote. 

We  had  to  ride  through  several  large  sheets  of  water.  In  the 
middle  of  one,  a  negro  stood  quenching  his  thirst  by  using  both 
hands  as  a  cup.  We  knelt  on  our  saddles  when  crossing  the 
river  "Embohy,"  and  forded  another  deep  stream  like  so  many 
praying  equestrians.  At  length  we  arrived  at  the  Macacu  es 
tate  of  the  Carmelite  monks  of  the  Lapa  Church  in  Rio.  A 
league  square  of  fine  land,  it  was  willed  to  them  by  an  old 
planter  in  exchange  for  an  apanage  they  promised  him  in 
heaven.  Mandioca,  rice,  and  beans  alone  are  cultivated,  but 
none  for  sale.  The  greater  part  is  consumed  on  the  place,  the 
balance  by  the  fathers  in  the  city.  Of  the  slaves,  excluding 
children,  only  six  are  men ;  the  rest,  some  fifty  odd,  are  wom 
en.  The  owners  find  it  more  profitable  to  raise  negroes  than 
coffee,  or  aught  else.  The  lads,  at  a  certain  age,  are  sent  to  the 
city  and  bound  out  to  trades,  by  which  "twice  as  much  is 
made  out  of  them  as  if  they  were  employed  on  the  soil." 
The  manager  is  a  slave ;  he  led  us  into  a  barn,  with  mud  floor 
and  walls,  in  which  thirty  women  and  children  were  huddled 
around  a  pile  of  mandioca  tubers,  which  they  were  scraping, 
while  others  washed  them.  Such  distorted,  mutilated,  hard, 
and  horny  fingers  as  many  of  these  women  had,  I  never  saw. 
Like  the  hands  of  some  slaves,  they  seemed  losing  their  human 
characteristics. 

'  All  were  comfortably  and  uniformly  clothed — black  skirts 
and  a  species  of  short  and  dark-blue  cloak.  I  believe  the  lat 
ter,  as  well  as  the  prohibition  of  shoes,  iron  collars,  flogging  men 
with  leather  thongs,  and  women  with  ferules,  is  derived  from 
the  ancient  policy  respecting  slaves.  Those  of  the  Gauls  and 
Romans  wore  blue.  Beggars  wore  the  same,  and  were  thence 
named  "Blue-gowns." 

VJth.  A  Paulista  called  on  his  way  home.  He  passed  by  a 
week  ago  with  two  hundred  mules,  young  and  mostly  unbroken, 
which  he  has  sold  at  prices  varying  from  fifteen  to  twenty  dol 
lars.  He  returns  in  December  with  another  drove.  These  an 
imals  cost  planters  nothing  to  keep.  Turned  into  the  woods, 
they  are  caught  when  wanted,  and  that  is  chiefly  in  the  sugar 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  37} 

season.  Here  are  no  stables  in  which  to  house  them  ;  neither 
hay  nor  oats  are  grown  for  them,  and  no  blacksmith's  bill  to 
pay  for  shoeing  them. 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

Macacu.— A  large  Tree.— Its  Form,  Dimensions,  and  extraordinary  Roots.— Why 
so  few  old  Trees.— Vegetable  Origin  of  Forms  and  Ornaments.— Singular  Forms 
of  Boles.— Natural  Moulding.— The  Sloth-tree  and  Sloth.— Fabrication  of  Fa- 

rinha. — Cultivation  of  the  Plant. — Grating  and  pressing  the  Pulp. The  Tipiti. 

—Musical  Wagons. — Rats  keeping  Carnival. — Return  to  the  City. 

June  18.  Manoel,  a  Portuguese  employed  on  the  estate,  while 
descanting  on  gunning  and  game,  mentioned  a  tree  that  he  had 
often  passed  in  his  hunts,  whose  bole  would  require  sixteen  men 

with  outstretched  arms  to  encircle  it.     Senhor  J had  heard 

of  it  in  his  father's  lifetime,  but  had  never  visited  it,  although 
located  within  two  or  three  miles  of  the  house.  The  spot 
where  its  highest  branches  mingle  with  others  half  way  up  the 
mountain  is  seen  from  the  door.  Alleged  difficulties  of  the  as 
cent,  and  passage  through  jungles  and  gulleys,  rather  whetted 
than  blunted  the  desire  to  see  it,  and  a  party  was  arranged  to 
start  at  seven  this  morning.  As  we  were  moving,  two  sports 
men  came  up  and  joined  us,  with  three  more  uncouth-looking 
tailless  hounds,  whose  barking,  quoth  Manoel,  will  scare  off  ev 
ery  monkey— his  favorite  game.  He  was  right,  for  not  one 
was  seen. 

Reaching  the  base  of  the  forest  acclivity,  we  began  to  climb 
by  grasping  hold  of  creepers,  shoots,  and  saplings,  pulling  our 
selves  up,  and  stopping  every  few  yards  to  breathe,  while  lean 
ing  against  the  upper  sides  of  the  trees.  The  slaves  were  with 
us,  and  barefooted  of  course,  liable,  as  I  supposed,  to  be  stung 
every  moment  by  poisonous  reptiles ;  but  two  gentlemen  threw 
off  their  shoes  and  boots,  and  scaled  their  way  over  the  slippery 
leaves  in  their  stocking-feet.  Another  left  hat,  jacket,  shoes, 
and  stockings  below,  and  spent  the  day  with  gun  in  hand  with 
out  them.  All  my  fear  of  snakes  and  scorpions  was  gone. 

Three  of  us  pushed  ahead  and  reached  a  level  spot,  on  which 
we  were  glad  to  rest,  although  it  scarcely  afforded  room.  The 
hunters  were  below ;  their  shouts,  baying  of  dogs,  and  reports 


372  SKETCHES  OF 

of  guns  kept  reverberating  through,  the  otherwise  silent  woods, 
frightening  pacas  and  armadillos  to  their  holes,  of  which  we 
passed  several,  and  scaring  away  birds,  among  which  toucans 
were  the  largest  we  saw.  The  iirst  thing  observable  in  getting 
into  the  forest  is  the  absence  of  the  sun.  While  glowing  in 
brightness  without,  twilight  reigns  within.  Not  a  beam  reached 
the  ground  through  the  intercepting  foliage,  which,  spreading  at 
great  elevations,  forms  a  perfect  and  perpetual  screen.  As  the 
brilliance  of  the  solar  rays  is  supposed  to  diminish  in  intensi 
ty  as  they  travel  onward,  so  we  have  experienced  a  diminution 
of  light  in  coming  thus  far,  and  have  attained  a  degree  that  pos 
sibly  resembles  morning  on  Herschel  and  noon  on  Neptune. 

The  trees  are  straight,  rising  from  sixty  to  one  hundred  feet, 
and  void  of  branches  two  thirds  up.  Their  average  thickness 
is  under  two  feet ;  some  occur  of  three,  four,  and  even  five  feet, 
but  thousands  do  not  exceed  fifteen  inches.  Large  and  small 
grow  some  six  or  seven  feet  apart,  and  the  open  spaces  are,  on 
the  whole,  free  from  scrub  or  brushwood.  Occasionally  the 
slaves  had  to  cut  the  way  for  us.  The  most  novel  feature  to 
me  was  the  vegetable  cordage  hanging  down  from  the  topmost 
branches,  often  numerous  and  various  as  the  ropes  and  rigging 
of  a  frigate.  These  sipos  are  not  parasitic ;  their  roots  are  in 
the  soil,  whence  they  run  up  the  highest  poles,  descend  like 
plumb-lines  where  nothing  intervenes,  run  along  the  ground 
for  hundreds  of  feet,  and  rise  and  drop  again.  At  one  place  a 
four-inch  sipo — a  cable — formed  a  natural  swing,  which  most 
of  us  used.  It  reached  within  four  feet  of  the  ground,  while  the 
upper  ends  were  lost  to  sight,  after  rising  eighty  feet  perpendic 
ularly.  Monkeys  are  said  to  be  as  fond  as  children  of  the  ex 
ercise. 

But  for  creepers,  and  trees  to  hold  on  and  rest  by,  there  would 
be  no  scaling  these  mountains.  The  angle  of  our  ascent  was 
not  less  than  45°,  while  the  leaves,  thick  on  the  ground,  ex 
ceedingly  embarrassed  us.  When  the  foot  did  not  slip  over 
them,  they  slid  down  under  it.  After  a  short  rest,  we  started 
again,  passing  huge  rocks,  that  might  have  come  down  from 
above  before  the  epoch  of  vegetation  began.  Our  pioneers 
cleared  the  way  into  a  gorge,  where  fresh  trails  and  beaten 
tracks  of  pacas  crossed  and  recrossed.  Passing  over  a  gulley, 


LIFE    IN  BRAZIL.  373 

whose  depth  was  concealed,  we  mounted  again,  and  the  mam 
moth  tree  rose  up  before  us.  Is  that  it  ?  all  shouted.  "  Si, 
senhors,"  quoth  Manoel.  We  were  disappointed.  It  was  a  no 
ble  one,  but  not  near  the  smallest  size  he  had  named.  Stream 
ing  with  perspiration,  and  panting  like  overdriven  cattle,  the  first 
thing  was  to  find  seats.  While  one  was  flashing  some  powder 
to  light  cigars,  the  cry  or  whistle  of  a  sloth  was  heard,  and 
away  went  guns  and  gunners. 

The  bole  was  straight,  tapered  very  slowly,  rose  nearly  a 
hundred  feet,  and  there  divided  into  three  diverging  branches, 
the  parents  of  numerous  others.  We  passed  a  sipo  cord  round 
three  feet  above  the  ground,  and  found  its  circumference  twenty- 
seven  feet ;  close  to  it,  thirty-two.  This  was  at  the  upper  side, 
where  the  cord,  though  then  close  to  the  ground,  was  ten  feet 
above  it  at  the  lowest  side.  On  approaching  from  below,  the 
spreading  base  at  the  right  merges  into  a  line  of  rocks  extend 
ing  twenty  feet  or  more,  and  then  sinks  out  of  sight ;  their  faces 
were  upright,  smooth,  and  of  unequal  elevation,  from  three  to 
ten  feet ;  their  upper  surfaces,  shelving  off,  disappeared  in  the 
sides  of  the  mount.  On  drawing  near,  with  hatchets  in  hand, 
lo !  this  apparent  wall  of  granite  turned  out  wood  ! — the  contin 
uation  of  the  base  of  the  shaft.  At  the  left,  the  slope  of  the 
mountain,  or  the  changes  it  had  undergone,  had  not  required 
the  development  of  such  an  extraordinary  buttress  to  insure  sta 
bility  to  the  ponderous  and  stately  trunk.  For  a  hundred  feet 
on  either  hand,  and  also  above  it,  long  stretches  of  roots  ap 
peared  here  and  there  above  the  surface — one  three  feet  in  diam 
eter,  and  several  two  feet ! 

This  sylvan  Goliah  was  a  jequetiba,  the  Indian  medicine- 
tree.  The  bark  is  kept  on  sale  by  the  druggists ;  the  wood  is 
easy  to  work,  reminding  one  of  whitewood,  which  it  resembles. 
Interposing  objects  were  cut  away  till  we  had  a  clear  view  of 
it,  and  two  sketches  were  taken  from  different  points.  The 
branches  are  remarkably  angular,  and  abruptly  change  their  di 
rection  almost  every  foot ;  the  leaves  are  small,  and  the  foliage 
limited.  Where  the  branches  start  from  the  trunk,  scarlet  par 
asites  were  flourishing,  and  there  came  down  a  sipo  thick  as  my 
arm,  that  hung  loosely  within  six  inches  of  the  tree,  as  if  let 
down  to  plumb  it.  No  better  means  of  rising  into  the  upper 


374  SKETCHES   OF 

regions  could  be  required  by  young  sailors  than  these  "  monk 
ey-ladders." 

The  age  of  this  majestic  column  could  not  be  ascertained.  I 
thought  at  first  it  was  in  its  prime,  but  that  period  had  long 
passed — probably  before  Cabral  came  in  sight  of  the  coast. 
Three  feet  above  the  ground  there  appeared  a  circular  hole,  four 
inches  in  diameter,  with  edges  handsomely  rounded.  I  pushed 
in  the  end  of  a  rod  seven  feet  before  it  was  stopped  at  the  op 
posite  side.  The  bole  was  a  mere  shell  or  tube,  standing  on  a 
capacious  chamber,  whose  front  wall  faced  us  below. 

The  thought  may  occur  to  others  as  it  occurred  to  me :  How 
is  it  that,  in  primitive  forests,  so  few  very  large  trees  are 
found  ?  Ought  not  a  majority,  at  least,  to  be  as  venerable  for 
age  and  dimensions  as  this  ?  A  brief  reflection  answers  no,  and 
with  it  reason  as  well  as  fact  coincides.  This  one  has  outlived 
the  usual  age ;  its  compeers,  that  rose  with  it,  are  gone,  and 
left  it  to  linger  in  the  midst  of  a  strange  generation.  A  virgin 
forest  has  never  been  found  stocked  with  old  trees,  any  more 
than  a  nation  with  ancient  men.  Both  spring  up,  mature,  de 
cline,  and  give  place  to  their  offspring,  because  in  that  way  only 
could  either  be  perpetuated.  Forest  giants  are,  therefore,  like 
human  Anaks,  exceptions  to  a  beneficent  law  that  limits  their 
stature  and  bulk,  like  the  one  which  restricts  those  of  men. 

Before  reaching  and  after  leaving  this  tree,  we  were  environ 
ed  by  striking  proofs  that  the  cardinal  forms  and  ornaments  of 
architects,  joiners,  and  carvers  were  derived  from  Nature's  car 
pentry.  I  do  not  say  she  elaborates  her  materials  into  finished 
mouldings,  columns,  and  capitals.  It  would  have  been  no  ad 
vantage  to  her  apprentice-man  if  she  had,  since  her  mission  is 
not  to  anticipate  his  efforts,  but  to  awaken  and  direct  them. 
Hence,  like  a  wise  teacher,  she  suggests  ideas,  and  incites  him 
to  work  them  out.  Architectural  contours  and  embellishments 
revealed  to  David  for  the  temple,  and  patterns  shown  to  Moses 
in  the  mount,  are  still  found  on  Oriental  hills,  and  abound  in 
every  forest  here — "pillars  and  chapiters,"  "lily-work,"  "net 
work,"  "wreaths  of  flowers,"  "pomegranates,"  "palm-trees," 
and  "  almonds,"  &c.  Plain  round  columns  occur  in  trees  in  all 
countries,  but  here  are  twisted,  wreathed,  fluted,  and  clustered 
or  Gothic  types. 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  375 

At  one  spot  I  rested  against  a  bole  nearly  two  feet  in  diam 
eter,  about  which  a  four-inch  sipo  was  wound,  from  bottom  to 
top,  as  regular  as  if  carved  on  the  straight  shaft  by  art.  Grown 
together,  both  appeared  of  one  substance.  A  still  finer  exam 
ple  occurred  on  our  way  down,  but  I  could  not  stop  to  examine 
and  sketch  it.  On  another  bole,  a  couple  of  sipos  gave  more 
than  a  hint  of  the  double  spiral,  and  in  one  case  they  were  coil 
ed  so  closely  as  to  conceal  the  trunk  entirely,  exhibiting  the 
peculiarity  of  another  artistic  shaft. 

Here  are  an  outline  and  section  of  a  fluted  or  Gothic  shaft. 
Its  expression  partakes  of,  and  would,  had  they 
not  been  known,  suggest  both.  Over  three  feet 
thick,  its  upper  part  expands  into  a  capital  regu 
lar  as  the  base,  thus  showing  us  how  the  early 
builders  were  taught  to  combine  elegance  of  forms 
with  fitness  for  enlarged  support.  Like  a  word 
to  the  wise,  the  merest  glance  at  such  an  object 
sufficed.  In  the  twinkling  of  an  eye  the  idea  and 
its  application  were  realized.  The  flutes  were  not 
of  one  thickness,  but  the  difference  was  not  great ;  few  were  less 
than  four  inches,  and  all  were  straight,  round,  and  smooth. 
This  tree  belongs  to  a  numerous  family,  but  so  far  excelled  in 
regularity  other  members  we  fell  in  with,  that  I  begged  the  party 
to  hold  on  a  few  minutes  near  it. 

I  had  previously  caused  some  delay  at  a  stately  one,  four  feet 
over,  whose  section,  three  feet  above  the  ground, 
is  figured  at  a  in  the  margin.  By  some  law,  the 
coahan,  as  the  class  is  named,  is  prohibited  from 
accumulating  its  substance  into  cylindrical  or  con 
ical  trunks,  but  models  it  into  a  system  of  radi 
ating  planks  more  or  less  developed,  thus  extending  the  fluted 
and  Gothic  features  into  other  varieties.  In  another  tree,  the 
distance  between  two  adjoining  plates  was  six,  and  their  depth 
five  feet,  leaving  a  space  in  which  five  men  could  stand.  Here, 
thought  I,  are  planks  actually  growing.  The  tree  had  hardly 
any  centre. 

In  rose-wood  the  feature  exists  in  a  modified  form.  A  very 
fine  tree  stood  near  where  we  dined,  its  upper  branches  waving 
from  seventy  to  eighty  feet  above  our  heads  ;  a  shows  a  section 


376 


SKETCHES   OF 


six  feet  from  the  ground,  the  extreme  di 
ameter  five.  The  same  form  continued 
some  forty  feet,  when  the  trunk  gave  birth 
to  two  perpendicular  stems,  from  which 
spring  all  above  them.  On  account  of 
breaks  and  twists  in  the  radiating  slabs,  a  good-sized  plank 
could  hardly  be  got  out  of  them. 

I  add  the  section  of  another  tree  near  which  we  happened  to 
halt.  It  was  neither  a  jacaranda  nor 
a  coahan.  It  took  forty  feet  of  withe 
to  go  round  it.  This  trunk  is  a  very 
high  one,  and  preserved  the  same 
strange  form  most  of  the  way  up. 
It  was  apparently  in  its  prime ;  noth 
ing  like  decay  to  be  seen  about  it. 
Here  were  dwarf  and  other  cocoas,  that  present  almost  perfect 
columns,  and  one  species  with  successive  swellings  at  the  upper 
parts  reminded  one  of  Hindoo  and  other  Oriental  architectural 
characteristics. 

But  none  of  these  surprised  me  more  agreeably  than  a  nearly 
full-developed  moulding.  It  was  on  a  fallen  stem  upon  which 
some  of  us  sat  a  while  to  rest.  A  -|  inch  sipo  had  coiled  itself 

three  times  round,  and  then,  turn 
ing  away,  disappeared  in  the  dis 
tance.  The  part  in  contact  with 
the  stem  was  flattened,  and  in  yield 
ing  to  that  shape  the  displaced  sub 
stance  was  pushed  out  at  either 
hand  into  fillets,  as  in  the  figure. 
Where  the  sipo  took  its  departure, 
,  at  a,  the  flat  part  continued  a  little 
?  way,  and  then  the  half  circular 
?  boundary  swelled  again  into  the 
circular.  The  fillets  vanished  ear 
lier.  It  was  clear  that  the  evolution  of  the  fillets  was  due  to 
the  compressure  (perhaps  by  shrinking)  of  the  soft  sipo  upon  the 
hard  and  unyielding  surface  of  the  larger  body  ;  for  it  approach 
ed  as  a  cord,  and  left  as  one.  As  the  coils  tightened,  a  lateral 
direction  was  imparted  to  the  fibres.  No  fact  is  more  obvious 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  377 

than  that  vegetation  here  obeys  the  slightest  impulses,  and  is 
ready  to  run  into  all  sorts  of  forms.  Its  plasticity  is  such  that 
it  only  wants  moulds  to  produce  planks,  busts,  and  statues.  In 
one  convolution  a  single  fillet  only  was  produced,  and  in  the 
others  the  angles  were  not  wrought  out  sharp.  But  what  then? 
A  blind  man  could  not  fail  to  recognize  in  them  the  astragal 
and  popular  mouldings.  Other,  and  probably  much  better,  ex 
amples  are  to  be  met  with  in  the  forests. 

In  numerous  instances  the  vegetable  ropes  united  with  each 
other,  where  circumstances  had  thrown  them  in  contact ;  thus 
branches  became  soldered  at  every  angle.  Frequently  the 
rope  is  divided  into  five  or  six  strands  for  a  foot  or  two,  and 
then  the  whole  unite  in  a  single  one.  But  besides  these  round 
sipos,  here  is  another  species,  which  at  first  I  took  for  long 
stretches  of  collapsed  leather  hose.  Some  were  singularly  im 
pressed  with  indentations  at  regular  in 
tervals,  and  corresponding  elevations  on 
the  opposite  side.  There  wras  another 
variety,  unembossed,  and  bent  as  at  c. 
The  sipos  proper  present  themselves  also 
in  long  spiral  stretches,  exhibiting  and 
diversifying  a  similar  feature  in  our  vine- 
tendrils. 

The  descent  of  the  mountain  was  even  more  laborious  than 
climbing  it.  More  care  and  activity  were  required.  In  the  lat 
ter  a  stick  was  useful,  but  on  going  down  essential,  to  prevent 
one  falling  headlong.  But  for  the  trees  and  shrubbery  there 
could  be  no  descending,  for  no  one  could  keep  his  feet.  Once 
started,  the  momentum  of  the  body  could  not  be  controlled  till 
thrown  down,  and  with  the  force  of  a  cannon  ball.  Although 
trees  of  one  kind  or  other  occurred  every  six  or  seven  feet,  if 
we  missed  bringing  up  at  every  one  in  our  way — if  we  passed 
over  ten  feet  or  twelve  without  stopping,  we  brought  up  with 
a  terrible  squelch  against  the  next.  I  perspired  quite  as  much 
in  coming  down  as  in  going  up.  With  specimens  of  sipos,  rods 
for  walking-sticks,  and  medicinal  bark  from  the  jiquetiba,  we 
arrived  with  the  hunters  at  home  by  5  P.M.,  well  pleased,  though 
tired  with  the  trip. 

The  general  aspect  of  a  Brazilian  forest  is  brownish  rather 


378  SKETCHES  OF 

than  bright  green.  The  trees  cast  their  leaves  all  the  year 
round. 

The  imbaiba,  or  "sloth-tree,"  is  among  the  picturesque.  The 
bole  is  straight,  smooth,  and  bare  of  branches  except  at  the  top. 
The  leaves  are  large  and  pentagonous,  which,  with  young  shoots, 
are  the  animal's  favorite  food.  It  resembles  the  mamao-tree, 
for  which  I  often  mistook  it.  It  varies  in  diameter  from  nine 
inches  to  two  feet,  and  rises  from  twenty  to  forty.  The  flesh 
of  the  sloth  is  sweetish,  and,  to  persons  unused  to  it,  sickly. 
When  one  is  within  reach  of  a  pole,  it  will  slowly  take  hold, 
and  is  often  thus  captured,  and  borne  off  on  the  shoulders  of  the 
hunter.  A  more  harmless  creature  can  not  be  imagined — a  hiss 
and  a  grin  are  its  only  weapons.  Its  face  is  the  index  of  help 
less  old  age. 

A  person  with  a  low  frontal  region  is  said  to  have  the  fore 
head  of  a  preguica.  Sloths  have  little  or  no  forehead. 

It  is  remarkable  that  the  two  species  most  allied  to  man,  and 
with  attributes  so  diverse — the  most  active  and  inert,  the  most 
harmless  and  mischievous  —  should  thus  be  found  together. 
But,  in  fact,  all  things  are  relieved  by  comparison  and  contrast, 
whether  properties  of  matter,  qualities  of  mind,  or  the  influences 
of  morals.  Of  minerals,  plants,  and  animals,  one  class  parodies 
another,  while  the  living  genus  which  approaches  nearest  to  the 
human  form  exhibits  it  in  the  lowest  stages  of  brutalization. 
What  apes  are  to  men,  demons  are  to  angels — distorted,  degen 
erate,  mischievous  caricatures,  and  then  the  devil  himself  is  the 
ape  or  imitator  of  God — "  O  demonio  em  tudo  pretende  ser  simia 
de  Deos." 

I  shall  here  insert  the  substance  of  my  notes  and  observa 
tions  on  the  fabrication  of  farinha.  This  word  is  Portuguese 
for  flour  or  meal,  but  when  used  without  any  qualifying  noun, 
is  universally  understood  as  designating  that  of  mandioca.  The 
procedure  is  one  throughout  the  country,  and  substantially  the 
same  as  was  and  is  practiced  by  the  aborigines.  This  root  is, 
next  to  the  potato,  the  greatest  of  the  red  man's  gifts  to  his 
white  brother,  and  one  reflecting  no  small  credit  on  the  donor, 
inasmuch  as  it  would  have  been  valueless  had  it  not  been  ac 
companied  with  information  on  its  culture  and  conversion  into 
bread.  Naturally  fatal  to  life,  it  has,  by  primitive  researches, 


Of    THE 

UNIVERSITY 

L :  F  O  K  !£>^ 

LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  379 

been  rendered  innoxious  and  nutritious.  But  for  this  early  and 
invaluable  discovery,  the  farinha  of  South  America  and  cassava 
of  the  West  Indies  might  not,  and  probably  would  not,  have 
been  known  to  this  day.  When,  by  whom,  and  under  what 
circumstances  it  was  made,  can  now  never  be  known,  albeit 
there  was  picked  up  by  the  early  settlers  a  tradition  of  a  ven 
erable  stranger,  draped  in  white,  and  with  a  flowing  beard — an 
other  Manco  Capac — teaching  the  people  the  use  of  fire,  to  clothe 
themselves,  and  dwell  in  houses  (neither  of  which  they  yet  do), 
and  the  cultivation  and  preparation  of  mandioca. 

A  field  of  ripe  mandioca  looks  like  a  nursery  of  hazels.  The 
stem  of  each  plant  is  isolated,  and  has  only  a  few  palmated 
leaves  at  top.  A  bud,  or  projecting  nucleus  of  a  sprout,  occurs 
at  nearly  every  inch  on  the  otherwise  naked  stem,  the  length  of 
which  is  from  six  to  seven  feet,  and  an  inch  thick  at  the  base. 
When  a  field  is  reaped,  the  stems  are  chopped  into  pieces  three, 
or  at  most  four  inches  long.  These  are  planted,  and  quickly 
take  root,  sending  forth  shoots  from  the  buds,  and  in  two  years 
mature  a  new  crop.  The  tubers  yielded  by  each  stem  average 
five  in  number,  the  largest  six  to  seven  inches  long,  and  four 
thick;  the  shape  irregular,  and  in  substance  resembling  the 
parsnip.  After  being  scraped  and  rinsed,  they  are  prepared  for 
the  "mill."  Of  the  same  plan  and  dimensions  every  where, 
this  machine  is  nothing  more  than  a  revolving  grater.  Ima 
gine  a  small  carriage- wheel,  three  feet  in  diameter,  mounted  on 
an  axle,  one  end  of  which  is  bent  into  a  crank  handle.  In 
stead  of  iron  tire,  a  strip  of  sheet  brass,  four  inches  wide,  and 
punched  full  of  holes,  is  nailed  on  the  felloes,  the  rough  side 
outward.  One  slave  turns  it,  while  another  pushes  a  single 
root  at  a  time  against  it.  When  the  part  left  in  the  hand  be 
comes  too  small  to  be  held  steadily,  a  fresh  root  is  used  to  press 
it  forward  till  it  is  wholly  ground  up.* 

The  pulp  is  put  into  bags  of  hair  or  cloth,  and  subjected  to  a 
press.  The  pressed  matter,  resembling  cheese-cake  in  consist 
ence,  is  rubbed  through  a  coarse  sieve,  and  thrown  into  shallow 
copper  pans  moderately  heated,  and  stirred  up  for  a  few  minutes, 

*  This  rasping-mill  is  identical  with  the  one  used  over  two  hundred  years  ago. 
as  appears  from  Piso's  History  of  Brazil,  in  Latin.  Amster.,  1648.  At  page  53  is 
a  figure  of  the  machine  that  might  serve  for  every  one  now  used  in  the  country. 


380  SKETCHES  OF 

when  its  manufacture  is  completed.  It  is  now  not  unlike  In 
dian-meal  or  oat-meal.  Thus  in  half  an  hour  the  root  is  con 
verted  into  what  is  every  where  known  as  "  the  bread  of  Bra 
zil." 

The  poisonous  expressed  juice  is  not  immediately  thrown 
away.  Received  into  vessels,  a  beautiful  white  precipitate  col 
lects  at  the  bottom.  Senhor  J ,  plunging  his  hand  in  a 

tub,  brought  up  a  specimen.  "  That,"  said  he,  "  when  dried, 
is  tapioca." 

Such  is  the  white  man's  mode  of  preparing  farinha.  The 
rasp  of  the  aborigines  consists  of  a  board,  say  a  foot  or  fifteen 
inches  wide,  and  two  feet  long.  One  face  is  smeared  over  with 
a  thick  coating  of  gum — a  natural  glue  that  hardens  like  stone, 
and  in  it  is  inserted,  often  in  regular  and  fancy  figures,  a  multi 
tude  of  sharp  particles  of  granite,  selected  from  pieces  broken  up 
for  the  purpose.  On  this  board  each  root,  after  being  washed 
and  the  skin  scraped  off,  is  reduced  to  pulp  by  rubbing  it  to  and 
fro  over  the  teeth.  When  the  desired  quantity  is  rasped  down, 
the  next  thing  is  to  compress  it  in  order  to  get  rid  of  the  water, 
and  after  it  is  expelled,  the  mass  is  laid  on  a  heated  stone  grid 
dle  and  stirred  till  dry. 

The  press  possesses  more  interest.  Imagine  a  coarse,  bas 
ket-like  tube,  made  of  split  cane  (the  slips  thin,  three  fourths  of 
an  inch  wide,  and  rather  loosely  plaited  or  interwoven).  A  com 
mon  size  is  five  feet  in  length,  five  or  six  inches  diameter  at  the 
mouth  or  open  end,  and  three  or  four  at  the  bottom  or  closed 
one.  A  large  loop  or  a  couple  of  strong  withes  is  left  at  each 
end.  When  used,  the  first  thing  is  to  wet  it,  if  dry.  The  op 
erator  then  grasps  the  edges  of  the  mouth  with  both  haads,  and, 
resting  the  bottom  on  the  ground,  throws  the  weight  of  his  body 
on  the  basket  till  he  has  crushed  it  down  to  about  half  its  pre 
vious  height ;  the  lower  parts,  meanwhile,  swell  out  in  diameter 
larger  than  the  mouth.  A  smooth  stick,  like  one  of  our  broom- 
handles,  is  now  introduced,  held  upright  in  the  middle,  and  the 
pulp  put  in  and  packed  round  it  till  the  tube  is  nearly  filled. 
It  is  next  suspended  by  the  upper  loop  from  a  hook,  or  the 
limb  of  a  tree,  and  a  heavy  stone  or  basket  of  stones  fastened  to 
the  bottom  loop,  so  that  the  weight  may  gradually  stretch  the 
tube  till  it  becomes  six  or  seven  feet  in  length  ;  the,  internal 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  381 

capacity  diminishing  with  the  extension,  and  the  contracting 
sides  powerfully  forcing  the  pulp  against  the  unyielding  central 
stick,  and  consequently  driving  out  the  liquid.  Instead  of 
stones,  one  end  of  a  heavy  log  is  sometimes  inserted  through  the 
lower  loop,  and  loaded  with  a  papoose  or  two,  or  any  thing  else 
at  hand.  Indians,  again,  will  put  one  foot  or  both  in  the  loop, 
as  in  a  stirrup,  and  serve  themselves  as  the  weights. 

Such  is  the  original  mandioca  or  cassava  press.  It  was  as 
common  among  the  Caribs  of  the  islands  as  it  was  and  is  with 
Indians  on  the  Oronoco  and  Amazon,  and  throughout  the  im 
mense  regions  between  those  rivers  and  the  Plata.  In  Brazil 
there  are  those  who  prefer  it  to  the  massive  and  clumsy  screw- 
press  imported  from  Lisbon  and  Malaga  at  a  cost  of  $200  to 
$300  each.  I  purchased  one  at  a  venda  for  16  cents,  of  the  di 
mensions  given  above,  and  for  it  the  Indian  manufacturer  prob 
ably  received  only  three  or  four,  certainly  not  over  five  or  six. 

The  carboclos,  or  tamed  Indians,  supply  the  venders  or  coun 
try  stores  with  it  in  all  the  provinces. 

This  basket-press  is  the  tepiti,  and  if  there  is  a  current  prim 
itive  invention  evincing  closer  and  happier  reasoning  out  of 
common  tracks,  and  which  exhibits  neater  and  cheaper  results, 
we  do  not  know  where  to  look  for  it. 

The  wagons  and  oxen  are  not  without  interest.  The  former 
are  Portuguese,  Spanish,  medieval,  and  classical.  Their  con 
struction  is  the  same  as  those  made  by  Grecian  and  Roman 
wheelwrights.  The  axle-tree  is  invariably  fastened  to  the 
wheels,  and  consequently  turns  with  them.  The  latter  are 
made  of  two,  sometimes  three  thick  slabs,  commonly  five  feet 
in  diameter,  four  inches  thick  at  the  periphery,  and  between 
seven  and  nine  at  the  centre,  where  they  receive  the  squared 
and  tapered  ends  of  the  axle.  Two  journals  are  formed  on  the 
axle  just  within  the  wheels,  by  making  six  or  eight  inches  of 
the  timber  round  and  smooth,  to  receive  two  forked  pieces,  or 
inverted  plummet-blocks  of  hard  wood,  secured  to  the  bottom  or 
under  side  of  the  wagon  body.  The  axles  are  generally  of  rose 
wood.  But  the  most  singular  feature  of  these  carriages  is,  they 
are  all  musical,  giving  out  an  incessant  moaning,  more  or  less 
soft  or  sharp,  and  broken  by  every  jolt  or  depression  in  the  road. 
This  arises  from  the  friction  of  the  forked  piece  on  the  journals  : 


382 


SKETCHES   OF 


it  is  modified  but  not  destroyed  by  grease,  nor  is  the  noise  un 
pleasant.  There  is  no  saw-filing,  teeth-drilling,  or  flesh-creep 
ing  power  in  it. 

For  a  full  half  hour,  as  we  trotted  along  yesterday,  the  sounds 
of  music  far  ahead  came  on  us,  swelling  and  subsiding  as  hills 
and  valleys  intervened,  now  like  the  humming  of  bees,  and 
anon  sharpened  like  the  singing  of  musquitoes  at  one's  ears. 
As  we  passed  on,  the  tones  might  be  compared  to  a  score  of 
^Eolian  harps — soft,  clear,  and  continuous.  At  length  we  over 
took  the  instruments  and  musicians — twelve  wagons,  laden  with 
cane,  on  their  way  to  the  Engenho.  Every  one  had  a  tone  of 
its  own,  and  the  mingling  of  the  whole  was  not  ungrateful.  To 
the  animals  in  the  shafts  it  is  said  to  be  as  delightful  as  to  the 
drivers.  Cervantes,  the  most  graphic  portrayer  of  Spanish  life, 
throws  Sancho  into  a  swoon  of  fear  by  the  creaking  of  the  same 
kind  of  wagon  in  the  dark.  The  oxen  frequently  seen  in  these 
wagons,  both  in  the  city  and  country,  are  such  as  would  make 
glad  the  hearts  of  our  farmers.  Allied  to  the  buffalo  of  India, 
nobler-looking  creatures  are  not  to  be  found. 


19th.  Last  night  the  rats  kept  carnival  as  usual.     Leaping 
on  and  off  the  beds  and  altar-table,  their  fall  on  the  floor  sound- 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  383 

ed  like  that  of  so  many  cats.  They  smelled  and  pulled  at  our 
shoes  and  garments,  and  squealed  and  scampered  as  if  they 
were  the  very  imps  of  mischief.  Repeatedly  I  sprang  up  with 
horror  as  they  were  tugging  at  my  clothes.  H—  -  was  snor 
ing  before  I  had  finished  some  writing,  and,  as  this  was  the 
last  night  of  our  stay,  I  determined  to  reward  him  for  his  indif 
ference  to  the  intensity  of  my  sufferings.  Instead  of  putting 
the  extinguished  light  outside  of  the  door  on  retiring,  I  placed 
it  on  his  bed,  and  quickly  covered  myself  up  in  my  own.  A 
minute,  and  our  familiars,  who  had  been  waiting  till  the  light 
was  out,  were  rushing  through  defiles  behind  the  plaster ;  a 
twinkling  more,  and  a  score  were  on  his  coverlet,  quarreling 
over  the  tallow.  A  violent  splutter,  a  round  oath  in  Portu 
guese,  and  a  convulsive  shake  sent  rats,  candle,  his  own  clothes, 
and  those  belonging  to  the  bed  into  the  air. 

At  5  A.M.,  II ,  M ,  and  I  took  leave  of  our  kind 

hosts,  by  ten  reached  Sampaio,  and  were  soon  after  steaming 
down  the  muddy  Macacu.  Millions  of  handsome  tufts,  on 
stems  of  three  to  five  feet,  like  palm-trees  in  miniature,  border 
the  river  and  occupy  the  swamps.  This  graceful  weed  is  known 
among  the  aborigines  as  the  piripiri.  H—  -  says  he  has  met 
with  it  in  most  of  the  provinces.  When  we  were  about  forty 
miles  from  the  Organ  Mountains  they  did  not  appear  to  be  one 
fourth  of  the  distance.  By  four  we  landed  at  the  city.  The 
captain,  much  to  his  satisfaction,  succeeded  in  mortally  wound 
ing  some  harmless  gulls  ;  two  splendid  white  cranes  will  not, 
however,  rise  in  judgment  against  him,  for  he  missed  them. 


384  SKETCHES   OF 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 

Apollonia  and  Carasco. — Divinations. — Beatified  Galens. — The  Mizericordia. — 
Meeting  of  Isabel  and  Mary. — The  Chapel. — Emperor. — Foundlings. — Isabel 
the  Representative  of  a  Pagan  Goddess. — Manual  and  tibial  Worship. — Fourth 
of  July. — Lame  leading  the  Blind. — British  Chapel,  Preacher,  and  Prayer-Book. 
— Nictherohy. — Fine  Estate  and  its  small  Cost. — A  Paca. — The  Nuncio  de 
nounced. — Lost  Image. — Shrine  in  a  Brothel. — Legislation  invoked. — Theatrical 
and  sacerdotal  Exhibitions. 

June  22.  Yesterday  was  the  feast  of  Apollonia,  the  great 
dentista  of  the  faithful.  I  might  as  well  have  attended,  had  it 
been  only  to  learn  the  invocation,  which  the  most  waggish  of 
clerical  bachelors  ordered  an  acquaintance  of  the  reader  to  re 
peat  in  behalf  of  her  master,  and  the  fitness  of  which  she  pre 
sumed  to  question. 

"  The  prayer  of  Saint  Apollonia,  say  you  ?  That  might  do 
something  if  my  master's  distemper  lay  in  his  gums,  but,  alas ! 
it  is  in  his  brains." 

"  I  know  what  I  say,  Mistress  Housekeeper,"  quoth  Caras 
co.  "  You  go  home  and  prepare  me  something  warm  for  break 
fast,  and  don't  stand  disputing  with  me,  a  bachelor  of  Sala 
manca,  for  there  is  no  bachelorizing  beyond  that." 

The  conjuring  season  has  opened.  Booksellers  advertise 
The  Diviner  of  the  Future,  containing  1600  Sortes ;  The 
Lady's  Oracle,  with  infallible  modes  of  ascertaining  the  future  ; 
The  New  Sibyl,  proper  to  be  consulted  on  the  nights  of  St. 
John,  Peter,  Anthony,  and  many  others.  The  unmarried,  I 
am  told,  apply  to  John,  because  he  was  a  bachelor.  Peter 
was  married,  and  to  him  those  who  have  lost  their  mates  look 
for  fresh  ones. 

24zfA.  This  is  the  day  when  the  sun  comes  leaping  and  laugh 
ing  up  the  horizon,  instead  of  his  wonted  snail-like  pace.  Pub 
lic  business  is  suspended.  I  observed  parties  practicing  divina 
tion  after  an  old  custom :  they  threw  dice,  and  then  turned  to 
figures  on  a  card  corresponding  with  the  numbers  thrown.  A 
lady  neighbor  went  at  twelve  o'clock  last  night  to  the  Cattete 
Brook  to  ascertain  if  she  would  live  another  year.  Her  shadow 
was  doubled  in  the  stream,  and  she  will  live  two. 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  385 

.  The  anniversary  of  "  San  Tude,  advogado  contra  a 
tosse."  Tude  and  Braz  hold  much  the  same  rank  in  sacred 
therapeutics  as  Blase  once  held  in  England.  lie  was  a  great 
friend  to  asthmatic  people,  and  famous  for  removing  obstruc 
tions  from  the  windpipe.  His  fee  was  a  couple  of  tapers,  and 
even  they  "  were  good  for  the  tooth-ache  and  diseased  cattle.'' 
Of  other  beatified  Galens,  St.  Servulo  cures  paralysis,  and  Li- 
borio  removes  stones  from  the  bladder — dor  de  pedra.  St. 
Miguel  dos  Santos  eradicates,  without  caustics,  cancers  and  tu 
mors,  and  St.  Rita  cures  incurable  complaints.  The  surpass 
ing  bull,  that  this  lady  makes  impossible  things  possible,  is  se 
riously  accepted  by  many ;  hence  a  pilgrimage  to  her  shrine  is 
the  very  thing  for  projectors,  squarers  of  circles  (I  was  intro 
duced  to  one),  inventors  of  perpetual  motions,  and  compound- 
ers  of  universal  panaceas. 

29^,  The  coldest  day.  Thermometer  at  6  A.M.  68°,  from 
which  it  did  not  vary  one  degree  to  8  P.M. 

The  Santa  Casa  da  Mizericordia  dates  from  1582,  and  is  as 
noble  an  institution  of  the  kind  as  any  people  can  boast  of — a 
specimen  of  genuine  catholicity,  unstained  and  untrammeled 
with  qualifying  adjectives.  Its  blessings,  like  those  descending 
from  above,  are  showered  alike  on  every  age,  sex,  creed,  and 
condition  ;  on  bond  and  free,  foreigners  and  natives.  It  is  also 
an  asylum  for  foundlings.  The  boys  are  provided  for  at  Boto- 
Fogo,  and  at  a  certain  age  are  put  out  to  trades  ;  the  girls  reside 
in  the  city  establishment,  and  are  taught  to  read,  write,  sew, 
etc.  At  each  anniversary,  bachelors  in  want  of  wives  often  find 
partners  for  life.  When  two  agree  to  be  united,  the  managers 
inquire  into  the  character  and  prospects  of  the  man,  and,  if  all 
is  satisfactory,  the  marriage  takes  place,  when  a  dowry  of  400 
milreis  is  given  from  the  funds  of  the  institution. 

Having  heard  much  about  the  daily  exposure  of  infants,  and 
facilities  afforded  those  who  drop  them  to  escape  unnoticed,  1 
concluded  to  walk  over  to  the  place  of  reception.  This,  till  re 
cently,  was  at  the  Hospital,  but  is  now  in  a  thinly-occupied 
street,  to  the  scandal  of  the  Holy  Mother  of  Nuns,  after  whom 
it  is  named.  The  device  for  receiving  the  infants  is  an  upright 
hollow  cylinder,  revolving  on  pivots.  One  third  of  the  side  is 
removed  to  give  access  to  the  inside,  and  the  bottom  is  covered 

BB 


386 

with  a  mattress. 


SKETCHES   OF 

As  the  width  of  the  opening  is  less  than  the 
thickness  of  the  wall,  it 
is  impossible  for  those 
on  one  side  to  see 
through  into  the  other. 
I  walked  the  entire 
length  of  Rua  Santa 
Tereza  without  per 
ceiving  any  thing  of 
the  kind;  but  on  re 
turning,  a  board,  only 
a  few  inches  square, 
over  the  closed  door 
of  an  ordinary-looking 
building,  caught  my 
attention.  The  inscrip 
tion  was  decisive,  "jEIzs 
postos  da  Miza,  No. 
30."  While  reading  it, 
corroborative  sounds 
came  forth.  Tha  only 
window  in  front  was 
near  the  door,  and  was, 
in  fact,  the  receptacle. 
What  I  had  taken,  on  first  passing,  for  a  green  inside  shutter, 
I  now  saw  was  slightly  curved.  I  touched  it,  found  it  turned 
readily,  and  the  opening  came  in  view,  when  a  bell  connected 
to  it  within  sounded  violently !  For  a  moment  I  hesitated,  but, 
when  the  inmates  of  a  house  opposite  raised  their  lattices  to  see 
who  was  dropping  a  foundling  in  the  daytime,  I  beat  a  quick 
retreat. 

The  2d  of  July  is  the  anniversary,  when  an  interesting  inter 
view  takes  place  between  two  church  ladies.  "  Who  is  Isa 
bel?"  repeated  E ,  in  replying  to  my  inquiry;  "why,  she 

is  the  mother  of  St.  John  and  the  protectress  of  hospitals.  To 
day  is  THE  VISITATION.  Our  Lady  will  leave  her  home  in  the 
Carmo  Church  to  visit  her  cousin,  but  Isabel  will  meet  her  half 
way  in  Dereita  Street,  and  after  embracing,  they  will  proceed 
together  to  the  Mizericordia.  The  apartments  of  the  female 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  387 

foundlings  will  be  opened  to  the  public,  young  men  will  attend 
to  select  wives,  the  emperor  and  court  will  be  present.  You 
had  better  go." 

The  procession  is  advertised  for  half  past  nine  A.M.  Allow 
ing  half  an  hour  for  the  walk,  we  can  reach  the  place  by  ten — 
and  here,  at  the  House  of  Mercy,  we  are.  The  Largo  in  front 
is  covered  with  leaves,  a  regiment  of  the  line  is  drawn  up  and 
its  fine  band  playing,  but  the  preparations  are  not  finished,  for 
workmen  are  busy  hanging  tapestries  from  the  upper  windows. 
The  troops  are  an  assemblage  of  the  three  marked  varieties  of 
our  race,  black,  red,  and  white  skins,  with  every  shade  from  In 
dian-ink  to  chocolate,  and  from  cinnamon  to  chalk.  One  of  the 
officers  is  very  pale  and  wan.  Spectators  begin  to  assemble : 
among  them  flocks  of  ladies,  plump  as  partridges,  with  their 
heads  dressed  as  for  fancy  balls,  and  no  covering  on  their  bo 
soms  but  amulets  and  jewelry. 

The  Carmo  is  one  fourth  of  a  mile  off.  Suppose,  instead  of 
standing  here,  we  turn  in  that  direction,  and  see  what  the  friends 
of  Our  Lady  are  doing.  We  go,  and  meet  her  as  she  issues 
from  her  sanctuary.  The  procession  is  headed  by  three  men 
abreast,  the  middle  one  bearing  on  a  stave  a  cross,  and  each 
of  his  companions  an  artificial  bouquet  surmounted  with  a 
burning  candle.  The  Carmelites,  in  cream-colored  copes,  fol 
low  with  lighted  tapers.  Priests,  monks,  and  chanting  func 
tionaries,  a  goodly  number,  come  next,  some  in  white  and 
some  in  black  sutains ;  several  wear  scarlet  stockings,  and  not 
a  few  have  cambric  tippets.  The  next  official  is  a  Thurifer, 
swinging  his  censer.  Behind  him,  and  last  of  all,  comes  the 
lady,  leaning  on  the  arm  of  a  bishop,  whose  conical  mitre  is 
decked  with  rubies,  or  stones  resembling  them. 

There !  they're  past,  but  how's  this  ?  Not  fifty  spectators 
following,  and  hardly  a  dozen  decent-looking  persons  among 
them !  Business  people  are  obviously  getting  tired  of  such 
things,  and  often,  as  in  this  case,  pay  little  attention  to  them. 
I  hesitated  about  joining  the  shabby  escort,  but  a  wish  to  view 
the  affair  minutely  induced  me  to  raise  my  hat  and  fall  in  im 
mediately  behind  the  lady.  After  passing  the  distance  of  a 
couple  of  blocks,  I  would  have  given  a  dollar  to  have  got  de 
cently  out  of  the  business,  for  we  were  all  brought  to  a  dead 


388 


SKETCHES   OF 


stand  by  the  bishop.  Stopping  as  deliberately  as  if  he  had 
been  in  his  private  chamber,  he  handed  the  lady  to  one  of  his 
associates,  slowly  drew  forth  a  handkerchief,  and  blew  his  nose 
secundum  artem.  Full  a  minute  elapsed  ere  he  resumed  his 
sacred  charge,  and  we  moved  on  again.  It  has  been  suggested 
that  this  delay  was  possibly  intended  to  give  time  for  Isabel 
and  her  friends  to  come  up,  that  the  meeting  might  take  place 
in  a  convenient  part  of  the  street. 

Continuing  along,  music  at  length  was  heard,  and  presently 
a  banner,  a  cross,  and  a  crowd  were  seen  approaching — Isabel 
and  her  servants.  She  had  heard  of  her  cousin  being  on  the 
way,  and  came  thus  far  to  meet  her.  (I  quote  popular  language 
on  the  subject.)  There  she  is ;  and  see !  both  ladies  fly  into 
each  other's  arms,  and  remain  locked  together  for  nearly  a  min 
ute.  Now  they  draw  back,  gaze  a  moment  on  each  other's 
faces,  and  Isabel  once  more  throws  herself  on  her  kinswoman's 
neck,  Our  Lady  meekly  receiving  the  caresses.  The  patroness 
of  the  hospital  recovers  herself,  goes  to  the  left  of  her  guest,  a 
little  in  advance,  and  with  open  hands  invites  her  onward.  Thus 
they  procceeded,  Isabel  turning  every  few  yards  to  repeat  the 
graceful  welcome.  As  soon  as  we  arrived  at  the  Largo,  the 
troops  presented  arms  to  the  cousins,  the  band  struck  up  a  lively 


THE    MEETING   OF   DUE   LADY   AND   ISABEL. 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  389 

tune,  and  the  clapper  of  the  chapel  "bell  rattled  most  lustily. 
People  thronged  to  salute  the  saints  until  they  got  inside. 

After  resting  a  little,  Isabel  is  to  conduct  her  visitor  through 
the  wards  of  the  sick  and  convalescent,  and  introduce  her  to 
the  foundlings.  While  thus  engaged  we  can  minute  down 
their  appearance.  The  contrast  of  their  dresses  with  those  of 
their  attendants  must  have  struck  every  stranger  like  myself. 
Their  gowns  were  neither  new  nor  newly  washed :  originally 
straw-colored,  age  had  dyed  them  brown,  scattered  specks  of 
gold  flitted  about  the  skirts,  relics  of  rich  flounces,  made  mat 
ters  worse.  It  seemed  unaccountable,  where  public  rever 
ence  was  to  be  excited,  how  the  managers  could  allow  them  to 
appear  in  drapery  so  unbecoming.  The  feeling  elicited  was  ex 
ceedingly  disagreeable,  and  even  rendered  still  more  so  by  their 
soiled — decidedly  soiled  arms,  necks,  and  faces.  Had  they  been 
ragged  street-girls,  picked  up  for  an  emergency,  less  attention 
could  not  have  been  expended  on  their  persons  and  attire.  To 
be  sure,  they  were  low  in  stature,  and  little  folks  are  apt  to  be 
neglected,  especially  when  dumb.  Neither  exceeded  twenty- 
five  inches.  The  bishop  bore  his  charge  reclining  on  his  arm, 
as  an  image-boy  carries  a  plaster  statue  in  our  streets,  and 
when  she  was  about  to  meet  her  cousin,  he  raised  her  upright, 
like  a  soldier  presenting  arms,  and  held  her  by  the  ankles  till 
Isabel  came  up.  Both  were  then  inclined  till  their  faces  met, 
and  they  had  taken  a  long  embrace.  While  they  were  in  con 
tact  their  bearers  brought  their  own  faces  nearly  to  touch,  and, 
speaking  for  their  wooden  ladies  in  an  under-tone,  exchanged 
salutations  for  them.  The  bishop  spoke  first :  he  stammered 
and  smiled,  and  when  he  got  through,  the  other,  a  hard-featured 
man,  with  no  ornament  on  his  head  but  his  tonsure,  replied  in 
behalf  of  Isabel,  and  finished  by  causing  her  to  make  a  low 
obeisance  to  her  visitor. 

I  now  entered  the  chapel  between  guards  with  fixed  bay 
onets.  Large  as  some  churches,  it  has  four  subsidiary  shrines. 
After  trying  in  vain  to  recognize  the  presiding  deities,  I  turned 
to  go  out,  but  lo !  all  exit  was  prevented  by  transverse  rows, 
deep  and  wide,  of  kneeling  ladies — a  phalanx  there  was  no 
breaking  through.  I  therefore  retreated,  with  others,  into  the 
vestry,  where  halberdiers  were  waiting  for  the  emperor.  He 


390  SKETCHES   OF 

shortly  made  his  appearance,  passed  through,  and  took  a  seat 
in  a  pew  near  the  high  altar.  He  was  in  plain  dress,  except 
a  blue  coat  with  epaulets  large  enough  for  Goliah's  shoulders. 
The  empress,  in  black,  sat  by  him,  and  her  ladies  behind  them. 
One  of  the  managers  read  the  annual  report,  and  then  mass  be 
gan,  at  which  the  young  ruler  was  perfectly  at  home,  anticipat 
ing  every  kneeling  and  rising  movement,  and  crossing  himself 
with  marvelous  rapidity :  he  was  through  the  operation  before 
members  of  the  cabinet  near  him  were  half  through. 

Twice  a  priest  came  from  the  altar  with  the  Missal  for  him 
and  his  spouse  to  kiss  ;  they  buried  for  a  moment  their  faces  in 
its  leaves.  A  small  gilt  case  was  passed  to  them  for  the  same 
purpose,  and  then  carried  up  and  down  a  double  row  of  sena 
tors  and  ministers  of  state,  whose  lips  the  priest  touched  with  it ; 
not,  however,  till  they  had  received  a  preparatory  purilication 
from  the  censer.  The  services  became  exceedingly  tedious,  and 
the  air  so  noxious,  that  every  one  was  weary,  and  Pedro  and 
his  wife  rose  to  depart.  A  few  boys  and  women  snatched  their 
hands  to  kiss,  at  which  they  were  not  a  little  annoyed,  and  with 
reason,  for  the  empress  appeared  haggard  and  ready  to  faint. 

Before  mass  began  the  two  cousins  were  brought  in,  when  a 
small  accident  happened  to  Isabel.  Her  bearer  was  prevented 
by  the  crowd  from  placing  her  steadily  on  her  shrine,  and  she 
fell,  knocked  over  a  couple  of  sacred  candlesticks,  and  would 
have  tumbled  with  them  to  the  ground  had  not  a  gentleman  in 
front  of  me  caught  her.  Upward  of  one  hundred  girls,  mostly 
under  twelve  years  of  age,  were  ranged  along  the  four  sides  of 
a  room.  They  were  neatly  dressed,  and  their  apartments  were 
every  thing  that  could  be  wished.  In  the  school-room  were 
superior  specimens  of  writing.  Applicants  for  wives  must  leave 
their  name  and  address,  that  their  characters  and  circumstances 
may  be  ascertained. 

The  reader  need  not  be  told  that  Isabel  is  the  modern  rep 
resentative  of  the  goddess  Mizericordia,  to  whom  Greeks  and 
Romans  dedicated  hospitals.  In  the  early  adoption  of  heathen 
deities  under  Christian  appellations,  the  attributes  and  functions 
of  that  popular  deity  were  assigned  to  Elizabeth,  the  mother  of 
the  Baptist. 

One  word  on  the  performances   in  the   chapel  and  church 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  391 

services  generally.  I  may  be  prejudiced — most  of  us  are  when 
out  of  the  circle  of  influences  in  which  our  habits  and  opinions 
have  been  formed ;  but  this  manual,  labial,  tibial ;  this  sprink 
ling,  smoking,  painted,  pantomimic  worship  of  the  Creator ;  this 
system  of  externalage  and  gilded  similitudes  which  sensible 
mortals  would  sicken  to  be  complimented  with,  does  seem  out 
of  character  with  the  present  times.  In  some  respects  it  sur 
passes  in  grossness  the  grossest  idolatry.  The  communion  of 
North  American  Indians  with  the  Great  Spirit  appears  more 
consistent  and  refined.  True,  it  was  practiced  by  our  forefa 
thers,  but  that  was  when  they  were  little  better  informed  than 
are  modern  barbarians.  The  images  are  better  carved  and 
more  neatly  dressed  than  those  of  Fetichism,  but  the  principle 
involved  in  their  introduction  is  the  same  in  both. 

However  well  intentioned  the  unknown  authors  of  the  phys 
ical  worship  of  gods  and  dead  men  by  means  of  images  and 
their  accessories  may  have  been,  and  however  expedient  or  just 
ifiable,  if  either  term  be  admissible,  its  application  to  Christian 
ity  in  darker  times,  it  surely  is  not  necessary  now ;  but  nation 
al  and  minor  hierarchies  never  purged  themselves  :  enlightened 
only  from  without,  they  are  ever  the  last  to  yield  to  conviction. 
Still,  the  world  in  religious  matters  is  advancing  ;  it  can  not  do 
otherwise  where  science  is  cultivated  and  Galileos  left  free  to 
pursue  it ;  and  what  is  true  science  but  a  manifestation  of  the 
Creator  in  his  works,  and  what  are  they  but  "revealed  truths," 
which  no  one  can  study  aright  without  becoming  wiser  and  bet 
ter — without  feeling  his  nature  rising  into  higher  phases  of  ex 
istence,  and  his  affections  throbbing  with  gratitude  to  the  Pa 
rent  of  the  universe  for  the  ceaseless  wonders  of  his  beneficence 
here  displayed  ? 

In  the  absence  of  uniformity  in  human  organizations,  and  in 
the  influences  of  climate  and  climatic  productions,  religious  dif 
ferences  are  unavoidable.  Races  will  have  congenial  rituals, 
and  homogeneity  in  them  is  impossible.  Moreover,  on  every 
subject  the  sea  of  thought  must  be  ruffled  to  prevent  a  stagnant 
and  putrescent  calm.  Even  with  the  soul,  action  is  life,  and 
with  it  there  can  be  no  action  without  reaction.  Controversial 
gales,  like  material  storms,  may  occasion  temporary  evils,  but 
they  are  prescribed  means  of  attaining  enduring  good. 


392  SKETCHES    OF 

4th.  The  American  men-of-war,  in  gala  dress,  made  the  wa 
ters  of  the  Bay  flash  and  the  air  reverberate  among  the  mount 
ains  in  honor  of  the  day  when  the  world's  exodus  from  thral 
dom  began. 

A  living  picture  of  the  lame  leading  the  blind  passed  this 
morning,  in  two  slaves  with  baskets  of  clothes  on  their  heads. 
One  in  advance  moved  slowly  and  sorely  from  elephantiasis ; 
she  had  hold  of  a  long  horizontal  stick,  whose  other  extremity 
was  grasped  by  a  feeble  old  man,  whom  she  thus  drew  along. 

5th.  Went  with  T—  -  to  the  British  Chapel.  The  lesson 
for  the  day,  1  Sam.,  xii.,  was  an  unlucky  one  for  the  reader — a 
furious  stickler  for  monarchy,  and  an  upholder  of  the  withering 
curses  it  has  heaped  on  his  native  land.  An  Irishman  by  birth, 
he  maintains  England's  right  to  rule  the  conquered  country  as 
she  pleases  ;  justifies  the  wholesale  confiscation  of  the  soil  to  the 
invaders,  from  whom  he  boasts  of  being  descended ;  denies,  with 
a  slap  on  the  table,  that  the  English  Church  is  a  burden  to  the 
Irish  people,  and  with  another  challenges  you  to  cite  an  exam 
ple  of  a  lord,  bishop,  or  vicar  distressing  a  family  for  tithes,  or 
removing  one  to  make  room  for  sheep ;  and  by  a  third  thump, 
that  sets  the  glasses  ringing,  proves  "  it  was  right  if  they  did." 
Half  his  salary  is  paid  by  the  British  government.  His  theme 
to-day  was  "The  Love  of  God." 

The  prayer-book  handed  me  was  one  of  those  issued  "by 
authority,"  polluted  with  royal  mandates,  enjoining  upon  its 
owner  what  he  is  to  believe  and  whom  he  is  to  pray  for.  Be 
sides  thirty-nine  items  of  faith  prepared  for  him,  reminding  him 
of  forty  stripes  lacking  one  administered  to  old  unbelievers,  it 
contains  a  creed,  accompanied  with  a  profusion  of  damnatory 
clauses,  enough  to  make  a  savage  shudder.  It  tells  every  one 
who  doubts  its  dicta  "  without  doubt  he  shall  perish  everlast 
ingly."  I  would  not  stay  a  week  in  heaven  with  the  red  bigots 
that  conceived  it,  or  the  intriguing  ones  that  perpetuate  it. 

Qth.  J proposed  a  visit  to  Nictherohy,  and  in  half  an 

hour  we  were  skimming  the  Bay  in  a  four-oared  barge.  Like 
some  state  capitals  with  us,  this  imperial  city  is  yet  a  small 

one.  After  calling  on  General  C and  chatting  a  while, 

we  passed  on  to  the  beautiful  chateau  and  grounds  of  Senhor 
P-  — o,  with  whom  and  his  amiable  family  we  spent  the  day. 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  393 

A  smart  Indian  youth  waited  at  table.  I  understood  he  was 
not  considered  a  slave. 

The  place  belonged  to  Pedro  L,  and  on  his  withdrawal  to 
Europe  was  purchased  by  the  present  proprietor  for  seven  thou 
sand  rive  hundred  dollars.  Only  to  think !  a  handsome  man 
sion,  on  an  eminence  commanding  one  of  the  finest  of  earth's 
landscapes,  a  plantation  extending  half  a  mile  one  way  and 
nearly  a  mile  in  another,  rich  in  every  tropical  treasure,  adjacent 
to,  and,  in  fact,  included  in  the  capital  of  the  province,  with  all 
necessary  out-houses,  for  so  small  a  sum !  While  wandering- 
through  its  teeming  fields  and  forest  groves,  reclining  under  its 
shady  trees  (among  which  were  bread-fruit  and  weeping-wil 
lows),  quenching  one's  thirst  by  overhanging  oranges,  and  a 
plum-like,  cooling  fruit,  so  plentiful  as  in  some  spots  to  have 
dropped  from  the  stems  and  covered  the  ground,  inhaling  the 
soft  and  grateful  air,  I  thought,  if  any  earthly  homestead  may 
be  likened  to  an  inheritance  in  heaven,  this  one  surely  might. 

On  reaching  the  Bay  our  boats  were  in  waiting.  The  men 
pulled  like  heroes,  and  landed  us  by  moonlight  at  the  Gloria 
Beach  in  an  hour  and  fifteen  minutes. 

A  present  of  game  had  arrived  from  Alagoas — a  paca,  which, 
instead  of  being  consigned  to  the  murderous  knife  of  the  cook, 
is  to  accompany  me  to  the  States. 

Qth.  Bedini  has  been  to  Pedropolis,  where  he  has  caused  no 
small  trouble.  The  colonists  are  mostly  German  Protestants, 
and  in  a  sermon  he  declared  that  all  married  Catholics  among 
them  are  living  in  concubinage ;  that  their  marriages  are  void, 
and  their  children  illegitimate.  A  storm  of  indignation  rages 
there  and  has  reached  here.  The  Diario  denounces  him  in 
strong  but  respectful  language,  insisting  that  it  is  the  highest 
imprudence  thus  to  kindle  the  fires  of  religious  intolerance.  It 
says,  "Propositions  like  those  emitted  from  the  Chair  of  Truth 
by  a  priest  of  the  character  of  M.  Bedini  are  eminently  cen 
surable."  The  bishop  is  invoked  to  act  promptly  in  the  mat 
ter,  as  one  that  threatens  to  compromise  the  interests  of  Brazil. 

lO^A.  An  advertisement  in  to-day's  paper  reminds  one  of 
Laban's  stolen  gods.  "A  black  porter  disappeared  with  a  bun 
dle  intrusted  to  him  in  Ajuda  Street  on  the  7th  inst.,  contain 
ing  three  frocks,  one  shirt,  a  shawl,  and  an  image  of  St.  John, 


394  SKETCHES    OF 

having  one  of  the  hands  broken.  If  offered  for  sale,  a  gratifi 
cation  will  be  given  for  the  information." 

"  O  devo9ao  de  Nossa  Senhora  da  Concei9ao  erecta  na  Bua 
de  S.  Pedro,  No.  226,  tern  de  fazer  seu  beneficio  no  Theatrinho 
da  Rua  Flores,  No.  55,  Sabbado,  1 1  do  corrente ;  os  administra- 
dores  do  beneficio  pedem  ao  respeitavel  publico  que  queirao  hon- 
rar  com  a  sua  presen9a  :  e  os  cartazes  marcarao  os  divertisinen- 
tos.  Eio  de  Janeiro,  4  de  Julho,  de  1846.  O  Secretario:  M. 
J.  Borges." 

In  addition  to  this  notice  in  a  morning  paper,  hand-bills  so 
liciting  alms  and  inviting  the  respectable  public  and  devout  per 
sons  to  attend  at  the  Theatre,  are  stuck  up  on  the  corners  of 
streets.  One  has  a  significant  mark  of  some  person's  opinion 
of  the  establishment  it  celebrates — a  coat  of  mud.  The  house 
is  a  brothel,  which,  from  ignorance  of  its  character,  the  bishop 
has  licensed  to  have  a  shrine  in  one  of  its  rooms. 

A  writer  in  the  Jornal  calls  on  the  reverend  deputies  in  the 
Legislature  to  bring  forward  measures  for  putting  an  end  to  the 
official  connection  between  religion,  churches,  and  theatres,  and 
refers  to  this  place.  From  play-bills  he  quotes,  "A  tragedy 
for  the  benefit  of  N.  S.  Concci9ao  in  Soap  Street,  namely,  the 
much-applauded  drama  of  The  Jealous  Wife,  Dance  of  the 
Polka,  and  the  comic  farce  of  The  Brother  of  Souls.  Again, 
in  the  Theatre  of  Nictherohy,  the  farce  of  The  Brother  of  SouU 
will  be  performed  for  the  benefit  of  souls  in  Purgatory.  And 
recently,  in  the  Theatre  San  Pedro,  in  this  city,  the  same  was 
played  in  honor  of  the  divine  Holy  Ghost  of  Sta.  Anna  ;  be 
sides  others,  equally  objectionable,  advertised  daily.  What  a 
satire  on  religion  is  this!  What  impudence!" 

The  union  between  theatrical  and  sacerdotal  performances  is 
too  intimate  to  be  easily  severed.  There  is  a  real  affinity  be 
tween  them.  Take  the  Capuchins,  who,  as  reformers,  are  held 
to  be  in  advance  in  spiritual  matters,  frequently  closing  their 
advertisements  with  some  mystic  or  moral  apophthegm,  and  how 
near  do  they  approach  their  histrionic  brethren.  Announce 
ments  of  their  festival  to-morrow  rival  any  play-bill  in  prais 
ing  their  grand  displays  of  fire-works  and  martial  music,  to  at 
tract  purchasers  to  their  auction,  and  to  exchange  money  for 
small  portraits  of  Veronica.  While  ecclesiastics  thus  compete 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  395 

with  lay  showmen  for  public  patronage,  it  is  natural  for  the  lat 
ter  to  retaliate  where  they  can ;  hence  the  plays  and  farces  in 
which  the  former  are  satirized.  The  evening's  entertainments 
to-morrow  at  the  Tereza  Theatre  are  "  the  much-applauded  dra 
ma,  in  five  acts,  of  THE  GRACE  OF  GOD  ;  after  which,  a  Polka 
Dance;  to  conclude  with  the  Three  Women  and  Three  Se 
crets:" 


CHAPTER  XXXVI. 

Capuchin  Attractions:  Fireworks,  Music,  Auction,  etc.  —  The  Mint.  —  Lantern- 
bellows. — Lady  of  Lampadoza. — Balthazar. — Peter  Coelho. — A  winged  Monk. — 
A  dead  Christ  by  a  Negro  Artist. — Ceara. — How  the  Emperor  was  anointed. — 
More  Galas. — Conveying  Presents. — Interior  of  a  Drawing-room. — Proverbs. — 
The  Neckcloth. — Bedini. — British  Embassador. — Chamber  of  Deputies. — Jaunt 
to  the  Gavia. — Inscriptions. — Tailor. — Dead  Slave. — Pride  and  Piggishness. — 
God's  Grandmother. — Bedini  again. — Lady  of  Snows. — Birth  of  a  Princess. — A 
Wizard's  Stock  in  Trade. 

July  12.  The  Capuchins'  great  festa  comes  off  to-night.  As 
it  is  the  last  spectacle  of  the  kind  I  shall  have  an  opportunity 
to  witness,  T —  -  kindly  accompanied  me  up  Castle  Hill. 
Crowds  were  climbing  up  the  steep,  others  hastening  down 
taster  than  they  wished.  As  we  rose,  gusts  of  music  reached 
us,  and  now  and  then  the  pinnacle  of  the  little  church  was  seen 
flickering  behind  the  glare  and  curling  smoke  of  bonfires,  while 
bombs  shook  the  air,  and  rockets  kept  rushing  into  the  fast- 
darkening  vault.  Arriving  at  the  scene,  and  borne  hither  and 
thither  by  the  crowds,  there  was  no  resisting  the  excitement. 

Two  sets  of  entertainments  were  going  on — within  and  with 
out.  The  latter  consisted  of  music,  auctioneering,  and  pyro 
technics.  A  military  band  of  thirty-two  instruments  occupied 
a  stage  on  one  side  of  the  church  door,  and  kept  playing,  at 
short  intervals,  national  and  popular  airs.  On  the  other  side 
was  the  auctioneer's  platform,  which  accommodated  a  committee 
and  a  small  black  band — twelve  negro  musicians,  in  white  jack 
ets  and  blue  caps,  who  played  when  the  other  company — a  white 
one — was  called  inside  to  perform.  Having  spoken  of  auctions 
in  other  churches,  I  shall  add  nothing  here,  except  that  one  of 
the  committee  cut  long  candles  into  short  pieces  by  way  of  add- 


396  SKETCHES   OF 

ing  variety  to  the  salesman's  stock,  and  affording  opportunities 
for  persons  of  small  means  to  obtain  bits  of  holy  tapers. 

An  accident  nearly  put  an  end  to  the  business.  A  slave  was 
relighting  steeple  lamps  which  the  wind  had  blown  out,  and 
some  sparks  fell  from  his  torch  on  the  canopy  over  the  stage. 
It  took  fire  and  was  partially  destroyed.  The  auctioneer,  pre- 
ternaturally  alarmed,  sprang  from  the  boards,  to  the  great  diver 
sion  of  the  crowd.  I  was  told  that  hundreds  of  young  fellows 
present  would  not  have  hesitated  to  burn  down  the  whole  con 
cern.  A  strong  police  force  was  on  the  ground,  and  the  chief 
of  police  is  head  of  the  new  brotherhood. 

The  fiery  attractions  included,  1.  The  usual  twenty-foot  pole, 
with  its  zigzag  train  of  bombs,  for  giving  the  sacred  salutes. 
Large  and  small  balls  alternate  at  the  angles  of  the  train,  from 
top  to  bottom  of  the  pole.  One  gives  out  reports  equal  to  mus 
kets  ;  the  others  drop  and  explode  on  the  ground  with  a  noise 
that  almost  bursts  the  tympanum  of  one's  ears ;  and  when  the 
fire  reaches  the  last,  it  starts  into  life,  an  inverted  cone  of  rock 
ets.  2.  A  long  line  of  taller  poles  on  the  ridge  of  the  mount, 
and  on  the  top  of  each  some  elaborated  device — reels,  wheels, 
stars,  and  full-grown  men  and  women.  Such  might  be  called 
the  chandeliers  of  the  stage,  while  the  foot-lights  consisted  of, 
3.  An  extended  row  of  flaming  negroes'  heads,  alternating  with 
tar-barrels. 

We  squeezed  into  the  church.  The  committee  on  portraits 
were  run  down  with  customers.  Veronica  stood  on  their  table  : 
a  handsome  four-foot  figure,  draped  like  a  nun  in  russet  gown, 
and  with  thick  folds  of  linen  round  her  throat.  She  held  a 
bouquet  in  one  hand,  and  in  the  palm  of  the  other  a  minute 
baby.  Ladies  young  and  old,  gentlemen  and  lads,  pressed  to 
buy  her  picture.  Colored  women  came  up  with  two-foot  can 
dles,  which  they  reverently  laid  down,  and  received  likenesses 
of  the  Capuchin  abbess. 

'All  this  time  the  business  at  the  altars  was  going  on,  and 
eunucEsHboiTowed  from  the  Imperial  Chapel  were  chanting. 
When  they  got  through,  a  monk  entered  the  pulpit.  His  theme 
was  Veronica — her  virtues,  sufferings,  and  her  glory;  the  kiss 
Our  Lady  gave  her,  the  value  of  her  as  a  patroness,  and  the  ad 
vantages  of  joining  the  brotherhood  just  instituted  in  honor  of 


LIFE    IN    BRAZIL. 


397 


her.     T said  the  whole  was  a  perfect  rhapsody,  and  not 

caring  to  hear  more,  we  left. 

14M.  H —  -  and  I  went  to  the  Mint,  and  yet  an  old  resi 
dent  of  Rio  did  not  know  there  was  one.  He  had  never  seen 
a  Brazilian  dollar.  The  currency  is  now  wholly  confined  to 
copper  and  paper.  Neither  silver  nor  gold  is  seen.  The  small 
est  denomination  of  bills  are  milreis,  and  all  change  below  them 
is  made  in  copper. 

The  building  is  in  the  form  of  a  hollow  square ;  its  front  has 
little  to  distinguish  it  from  adjoining  houses.  The  second  is 
devoted  to  engraving  and  die-sinking.  An  American  transfer 
ring  and  a  medal-ruling  machine  were  in  one  room.  One  of  the 
artists  showed  us  a  small  figure  on  a  copper  plate  half  engraved. 
I  observed  it  was  designed  for  Washington  ;  on  hearing  which, 
he  brought  out  a  two-dollar  Newark  bill,  from  the  margin  of 
which  he  was  copying  it.  I  did  not  understand  that  any  bills 
had  as  yet  been  engraved  here.  The  plates  of  those  in  circula 
tion  were  executed  in  England. 

The  melting-rooms  are  on  the  ground  floor,  where  are  three 
modern  air  furnaces  and  two  old  ones,  with  the  ancient  mode 
of  supplying  the  blast  by  lantern  bellows — a  form  of  the  popu 
lar  instrument  of  the  highest  antiquity,  and  still  in  vogue 
throughout  the  Oriental  world  in  one  rude  shape  or  another. 
The  specimens  here  are  similar  to  the  one  noticed  at  the  arse 
nal,  and  present  perhaps  the  best  modification  of  the  old  pneu 
matic  device.  To  liter 
ary  readers  a  sketch  can 
impart  no  interest,  but 
there  are  others  who 
will  thank  the  writer  for 
inserting  one. 

A,  an  upright  hollow 
plank  or  chest,  to  whose 
opposite  sides  the  ends 
of  the  leathern  tubes  or 
sacks,  £,  £,  are  nailed. 
It  answers  the  purpose 
of  two  bellows-boards, 
The  nozzle  proceeds  from  the 


LANTERN    BELLOWS    IN    THE    MINT    AT    RIO    DE    JANEIRO. 


and  is  secured  to  a  fixed  base. 


398  SKETCHES   OF 

opening  at  A,  which  communicates  with  the  cavity  within,  a, 
a'  are  the  movable  boards,  whose  lower  extremities  turn  on  pins 
or  pivots  as  represented,  and  the  upper  ends  or  handles  are  se 
cured  to  each  other  by  the  curved  iron  rod  c,  which  passes 
through  a  slit  in  a  solid  part  of  A.  The  clacks  or  valves  of 
a,  a'  of  course  open  inward,  and  so  do  two  others  within  the 
cavity  of  A.  Hence,  by  pushing  a  or  of,  one  bellows  or  bag 
is  inflated,  the  other  collapsed,  and  vice  versa  on  reversing  the 
motion  ;  thus  a  continuous  though  not  uniform  blast  is  kept  up. 

But  for  the  rod  c  there  would  be  two  separate  instruments, 
which,  if  placed  side  by  side,  and  the  front  boards  alternately 
pushed  to  and  fro  by  each  hand  of  the  blower,  would  constitute 
the  dual  bellows  of'  the  early  Greeks,  Eomans,  Celts,  Germans, 
and  Anglo-Saxons,  and  would  resemble  those  of  modern  India, 
Egypt,  Greece,  Asia,  and  Africa  generally. 

Every  thing  is  neat  and  neatly  arranged  about  the  Mint,  but 
no  business  connected  with  coining  was  going  on.  The  fur 
naces  were  cold,  the  presses  silent,  and  the  small  steam-engine 
for  driving  the  machinery  was  motionless. 

The  famous  Lady  of  Lampadoza  having  her  residence  close  by, 
we  stepped  in.  Like  the  temple  of  St.  George,  it  is  a  small 
and  mean  affair,  the  floor  rotten  and  level  with  the  street.  The 
altars  and  their  wooden  candlesticks,  denuded  of  gilt  and  paint, 
are  clouded  brown  with  age  and  handling ;  the  walls  frown  on 
the  ebony  sacristan  as  he  lounges  at  the  doorway,  and  the  low 
roof  scowls  on  him  for  withholding  a  coat  of  whitewash ;  but 
the  varlet  heeds  them  not,  and  possibly  thinks  colors  increase 
in  beauty  as  they  approach  his  own. 

Over  the  chief  altar  stands  the  patrona  nursing  a  child, 
her  occupation  and  regalia  queerly  contrasting  with  her  fanci 
ful,  but  faded,  worn-out  costume,  her  soiled  hands  and  smutty 
face.  At  her  right  stands  "Balthazar,  king  of  Congo,"  whose 
white  varnished  eye-balls  peer  on  her  from  sockets  of  jet.  Con 
fessing  ignorance  of  this  person's  biography,  I  was  told  he  was 
one  of  the  three  wise  men,  or  kings  as  they  are  said  to  have 
been,  guided  by  the  star  to  the  infant  Christ  in  Bethlehem. 
Why  he  was  brought  here  will  appear  presently.  On  her  left 
is  popular  Anthony,  his  military  sash,  black  cassock,  and  the 
light  blue  frock  of  his  baby  assisting  to  relieve  each  other. 


LIFE  IN   BRAZIL.  399 

The  baby's  stature  does  not  exceed  six  inches,  nor  the  monk's 
nor  monarch's  twenty-four.  The  "  patrona"  is  properly  made- 
taller  than  her  guests — she  is  four  feet.  Of  all  the  faces,  Bal 
thazar's  is  the  only  one  that  does  not  cry  for  soap  and  water. 

Passing  through  a  side  door,  we  entered  the  vestry,  a  large, 
airy,  well-conditioned  room,  worth  half  a  dozen  such  as  we  just 
had  left.  A  young  man  gave  us  the  history  of  the  establish 
ment,  and  showed  us  the  original  "  Rules  and  By-laws,"  dated 
1743 — a  fine  specimen  of  old  penmanship.  The  illustrated  title, 
in  purple,  red,  and  gold,  represented  the  patrona,  and  each  chap 
ter  begins  with  an  illumined  letter.  The  ground  was  not  ob 
tained  till  1748.  The  donor's  portrait  hangs  against  the  wall, 
and  close  to  it  is  a  wooden  tablet,  on  which  is  written,  "It  is 
the  duty  of  the  brotherhood,  whenever  a  priest  performs  mast- 
here,  to  ask  him  to  pray  for  the  souls  of  Pedro  Coelho  da  Silva 
and  his  wife,  who  gave  the  ground  on  which  this  church  is  built.'1 
This  was  the  second  fane  given  to  the  blacks,  that  of  the  Ro 
sary  being  the  first.  The  policy  of  having  a  negro  patron  in 
each  was  obvious,  and  hence  Balthazar  in  one  and  Benedict  in 
the  other.  In  1828  this  one  was  taken  from  them.  In  the 
bureaus  were  festival  suits  for  the  images,  including  artificial 
bouquets  and  trimmings,  dating  from  Peter  Coelho's  clays.  Here 
stood  Our  Lady  of  Pains,  large  as  life,  and  in  less  antiquated  cos 
tume  than  her  sister  over  the  altar.  Here,  too,  was  St.Vincentc 
Ferrea,  of  full  stature.  I  could  not  learn  who  he  was.  He 
looks  like  a  nondescript — half  monk,  half  angel.  His  head  is 
shaved,  and  his  plump  body  robed  in  a  cassock,  while  from  his 
shoulders  sprout  a  pair  of  splendid  wings.  Judging  from  his 
name,  he  may  have  been  a  blacksmith  before  he  joined  a  mon 
astery  and  learned  to  read  the  Missal  in  his  hands. 

Our  informant  offered  to  show  us  as  fine  a  piece  of  sculpture 
as  is  in  Rio.  We  went  into  the  church,  the  front  of  an  altar 
was  removed,  and  lo !  a  dead  Christ  lay  on  a  checked  mat 
tress.  "  There,"  said  he,  "  that  was  carved  out  of  cedar  more 
than  eighty  years  ago  by  a  slave  named  Fulah,  the  same  who 
made  the  colossal  crucifix  in  the  Jesuits'  College  on  Castle 
Hill."  The  general  effect  was  not  bad;  the  falling  in  of  the 
chest,  and  other  indications  of  life's  departure,  were  tolerably  in 
character.  The  image  had  been  fresh  painted.  Its  general 


400  SKETCHES   OF 

ghastly  hue  was  set  off  with  deep  carmine  gashes  in  the  breast, 
arms,  thighs,  and  legs,  besides  smaller  ones.  The  knees  and 
shoulders  are  sorely  bruised.  Each  wound  is  surrounded  with 
a  bluish  tint,  while  vivid  gore  trickles  or  streams  from  all.  I 
examined  tlie  figure  minutely.  It  is  six  feet  long,  and  the 
head  has  a  slight  movement.  The  joint  is  in  the  neck,  and  so 
neatly  covered  with  a  band  of  skin  or  parchment  (painted  like 
the  rest  of  the  body)  as  to  require  more  than  a  casual  inspection 
to  detect.  The  arms  are  attached  in  like  manner.  This  image 
is  exposed  for  public  veneration  every  Friday.  Pious  negroes 
and  others  then  crowd  to  kiss  its  hand  and  feet,  and  leave  their 
alms  in  a  dish  placed  near  it.  A  wig  of  flowing  locks  is  then 
put  on  tke  now  bare  head,  and  a  coverlet  thrown  over  the  body. 

The  young  man  finished  by  giving  us  an  account  of  himself. 
He  has  been  brought  up  to  the  law,  but  is  about  leaving  it  to 
devote  himself  wholly,  as  he  said,  "  to  God's  blessed  Mother." 

\ltJi.  The  papers  announce  assassinations  and  famine  still 
prevalent  in  Ceara.  Yesterday  public  business  was  suspended, 
and  the  pageantry  at  the  Imperial  Chapel  increased  by  extra 
masses  and  other  doings,  in  view  of  the  approaching  birth  of 
another  royal  baby. 

ISth.  A  gala  day — the  anniversary  of  the  consecration  and 
coronation  of  Pedro  II.  A  spectator  tells  me  the  consecrating 
unguent  was  rubbed  on  the  emperor's  bare  breast  and  shoulders, 
and  on  the  nape  of  his  neck,  according  to  the  ritual,  very  much 
as  the  two  lads  were  consecrated  to  the  Capuchins  by  Bedini. 

Vdth.  Another  gala  in  honor  of  the  protecting  angel  of  the 
empire.  To  compliment  this  nameless  spirit,  a  procession  was 
got  up  in  the  Imperial  Chapel,  which  I  did  not  think  worth  go 
ing  to  see. 

The  usual  mode  of  conveying  presents,  and  the  taste  with 
which  their  value  is  enhanced,  was  exemplified  this  evening.  A 
messenger  was  announced,  and  presently  a  young  man  stood,  at 
the  parlor  door  with  a  covered  tray  on  his  left  palm,  and  hold 
ing  forth  his  right  one,  asked  a  blessing.*  The  salver  was 

*  When  a  slave  enters  the  parlor  to  light  the  candles,  he  salutes  the  members 
of  the  family  present  by  holding  out  his  right  hand  and  saying,  "  Louvado  seja 
Nossa  Senhor  Jesus  Christ — a  ben9ao."  To  neglect  it  would  be  deemed  imperti 
nent  and  deserving  the  lash. 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  401 

heaped  up  with  flowers,  and  in  the  centre  an  orbicular  some 
thing,  enveloped  in  fancy  punctured  paper,  gathered  up  with 
green  ribbon,  and  set  off  at  the  corners  with  white  and  red 
roses.  The  object  inclosed  was  a  large  apple.  This  fruit  is 
rare,  and  consequently  much  prized.  Yesterday  a  barefooted 
young  slave  in  livery  passed  by  with  a  bilhete,  the  mode  of 
carrying  which  struck  me  as  a  pretty  one.  The  slender  stems 
of  a  purple  flower  and  of  two  yellow  roses  were  passed  through 
the  folds  of  the  envelope,  so  that  the  letter  was  borne  between 
the  bearer's  hand  and  the  flowers. 

Ladies  preparing  for  a  ball  send  for  a  perruquier  to  plait  their 
tresses  and  set  them  off  with  flowers.  With  the  other  sex 
things  are  different.  The  opinion  of  St.  Paul,  that  it  is  a  shame 
for  men  to  wear  long  hair,  is  universally  accepted.  All  are  so 
closely  cropped  that  with  some  the  pile  looks  as  if  recovering 
from  the  razor  rather  than  the  shears. 

Called  with  H —  -  on  a  corpulent  and  commanding  widow 
of  sixty,  in  a  fine  old  mansion  in  Mata  Cavallos.  Stately  and 
singularly  punctilious,  she  is  said  to  be  a  Semiramis  in  her  fam 
ily.  We  found  her  in  the  drawing-room  on  the  second  floor, 
which  resembled  in  its  fittings  those  of  other  old  first-rate 
houses.  The  ceiling  was  raised  and  painted ;  the  walls  sten 
ciled  for  three  feet  above  the  floor,  and  then  papered.  No  glass 
in  the  windows,  which  were  mere  frames,  with  outside  lattices, 
and  heavy  inside  door-like  shutters  and  massive  bolts.  Each 
of  the  interior  doors  was  formed  of  three  planks  tied  together 
with  the  usual  dovetailed  battens ;  they  were  painted  (white), 
but  not, planed;  their  only  finish  had  been  given  by  the  popu 
lar  adze.  Broad  wrought-iron  hinges,  iron  locks  without  knobs, 
and  bolts  extending  from  top  to  bottom,  are  capital  fastenings 
for  bank  vaults  and  warehouses,  but  rather  antique  as  fittings 
for  a  fashionable  apartment.  The  facts,  however,  are  worth  re 
cording  for  their  relationship  to  the  histoiy  of  the  arts. 

In  the  day's  table-talk  some  proverbial  sayings  occurred  worth 
noting.  "  Carrying  a  lance  into  Africa"  is  applied  to  success 
ful  moves  in  business,  at  cards,  etc.  One  fearful  of  imaginary 
dangers  has  "seen  Moors  on  the  coast."  A  person  not  easily 
excited  "  has  the  blood  of  a  barata" — a  roach.  Of  the  thought 
less  and  unscrupulous  it  is  said,  "  Presumption  and  holy  water 

Cc 


402  SKETCHES    OF 

cost  nothing."  A  person  in  low  spirits  is  "  jururu" — an  Indian 
word.  When  people  are  frightened,  "  they  have  seen  Medusa's 
head."  Of  a  dull  person,  "  He  will  go  to  the  sea  and  not  find 
water."  Of  a  fortunate  one,  "  His  bread  fell  into  the  honey-pot." 
When  a  solicited  favor  is  not  granted,  "Well,  it  requires  one 
hand  to  wash  the  other,  and  both  to  clean  the  face,"  intimating 
that  the  refuser  will  want  the  aid  of  friends  sooner  or  later. 

The  neckcloth  is  a  mark  of  gentility,  the  want  of  it  of  serv 
itude.  This  doctrine  of  the  old  Portuguese  is  still  enforced  on 
white  young  men.  In  Quitanda  Street,  the  chief  mart  for  dry 
goods,  one  is  sure  to  encounter  clerks  passing  rapidly  along 
without  hat  or  neckcloth,  and  their  bare  feet  pushed  into  wood 
en  slippers. 

20th.  St.  Elias  the  Prophet's  day  was  kept  up  by  the  White 
Friars,  and  indulgences  issued. 

A  hot  dispute  is  raging  respecting  the  troubles  Bedini  has 
created  among  the  mixed  population  of  Pedropolis.  He,  or  a 
friend  who  echoes  his  sentiments,  complains  of  the  emperor  not 
taking  sides  in  the  controversy,  and  using  his  influence  to  pre 
vent  the  spread  of  Protestant  heresies.  It  is  insinuated  that 
Pedro  does  not  attend  mass  as  often  as  his  father  and  grandfa 
ther  did.  Brazilians  are  pretty  well  chained  to  Rome,  and  Be 
dini  is  determined  to  give  them  no  chance  of  breaking  loose,  if 
they  were  even  so  ii.  'lined.  According  to  a  promise  it  is  ru 
mored  he  gave  the  Pope,  he  is  determined  to  bind  the  largest 
portion  of  the  Western  World  faster  than  ever  to  St.  Peter's 
chair.  It  was  suggested  that  a  public  meeting  should  be  called 
at  the  Campo  to  express  the  sense  of  the  citizens  on  the  inter 
ference  of  Bedini,  but  it  was  replied  that  no  public  assembly  of 
(he  kind  would  be  allowed:  it  would  be  deemed  revolutionary. 

The  British  embassador  begged  the  loan  of  a  medical  electro 
magnetic  machine  I  had  brought  from  the  United  States,  and, 
at  the  request  of  Mr.  Hamilton,  I  assisted  the  doctor  in  apply 
ing  it.  Had  Miranda,  Bedini,  or  the  Capuchins  known  that 
this  gentleman  was  seized  with  an  affliction  that  has  disfigured 
his  features  and  deprived  him  of  the  use  of  one  arm  while  wit 
nessing  the  procession  of  Priscilliana,  and  probably  laughing 
at  the  farce,  they  would  have  made  no  small  capital  out  of  it — 
a  heretic  sneering  at  the  newly-imported  saint,  and  instantly 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  403 

struck  dumb  by  her !  It  would  have  formed  a  twin  transaction 
to  that  of  the  wicked  painter. 

226?.  Remarkable  for  having  only  a  single  saint  assigned  it. 
To-morrow  is  more  fortunate ;  it  has  several,  and  among  them 
one  to  whom  all  afflicted  with  concretions  in  the  kidneys  might 

do  well  to  apply.  II and  I  spent  some  time  in  the  House 

of  Representatives.  Several  deputies  are  colored  ;  some  are 
priests,  and  among  them  the  Bishop  of  Rio.  A  few  are  physi 
cians,  but  the  greater  part  are  lawyers  and  military  men. 
There  is  not  a  merchant  in  the  House,  nor  a  manufacturer ;  as 
for  mechanics,  they  are  out  of  the  question. 

23d.  Another  gala  day,  which  H and  I  spent  in  a  jaunt 

to  the  Gavia  Mountains.  Starting  early,  we  tripped  through 
Boto-Fogo,  and  left  the  Botanic  Garden  behind.  So  elastic  and 
bright  was  the  morning,  that,  before  leaving  home,  the  Corcova- 
do  seemed  close  to  us,  and  now  the  distant  "  Two  Brothers" 
appeared  at  our  elbows.  Cochineal  cactuses  occurred  ;  bread- 
trees,  laden  with  fruit,  stood  by  the  road  side  ;  and  among  flo 
ral  treasures  were  "Flowers  of  Yenus,"  of  which  a  singular  use, 
considering  their  name,  is  made.  The  leaves,  rubbed  on  leath 
er,  impart  to  it  the  color  of  jet,  and  hence  are  employed  as  black 
ing  for  boots  and  shoes — a  hint  to  chemists  and  dyers. 

Black  streaks  crossed  the  road,  as  if  a  wide  tar-brush  had 
been  drawn  over  the  yellow  soil :  these  were  armies  of  ants 
passing  with  forage  to  their  camps.  Occasionally  a  green  leaf, 
two  or  three  inches  over,  is  seen  gliding  along  without  any  ap 
parent  mover :  turn  it  over,  and  you  find  a  Herculean  emmet 
bearing  it  away — a  load  vastly  more  disproportioned  to  the 
bearer  than  the  gates  of  Ascalon  on  Samson's  shoulders. 

The  Gavia  peak  is  nine  miles  from  the  city  by  land,  and 
twice  that  distance  by  sea.  The  elevation  has  been  calculated 
at  three  hundred  feet  above  the  Corcovado.  Close  to  the  ocean, 
the  Gavia  presents  a  prominent  mark  for  navigators,  and  is  sup 
posed  to  furnish  evidence  that  the  coast  was  visited  by  Phoeni 
cian  or  earlier  adventurers.  One  part  of  the  pinnacle  is  a  co 
lossal  cubical  mass,  with  a  comparatively  regular  face  overlook 
ing  the  ocean,  and  on  that  face  is  the  alleged  record — an  in 
scription  of  between  twenty  and  thirty  gigantic  characters,  deep 
ly  cut  in  the  granite,  and  generally  perpendicular  and  parallel. 


404  SKETCHES  OF 

After  passing  over  an  excessively  rugged  road,  we  arrived  at 
and  rested  on  a  summit,  appropriately  named  Boa  Vista.  The 
largest  of  the  Irmaoes,  a  bare,  black,  overwhelming  mountain, 
faced  us.  At  our  left  were  the  valley  we  had  come  through, 
and  the  glorious  country  between  us  and  the  Bay.  At  our  right 
the  mighty  Gavia  towered,  appearing  close  by,  the  sculptured 
tablet  exposed  above,  and  the  white  surf  rolling  and  roaring  at 
the  base.  Here  we  took  a  sketch  of  the  scene  and  of  the  writ 
ing,  which  appears  in  two  lines  extending  across  the  middle  of 
the  stupendous  page.  With  a  telescope  we  examined  it  mi 
nutely  as  we  passed  on.  As  we  progressed,  the  table  form  con 
templated  from  the  city  wholly  vanished,  and  the  largest  and 
highest  mass  resembled  a  pointed  helmet,  up  which  no  mortals 
could  climb  without  the  ascending  powers  of  lizards. 

In  1839,  a  committee  of  the  Geographical  Institute  visited 
the  Gavia,  and  copied  the  fancied  writing.  Their  report  oscil 
lates  between  a  natural  and  artificial  origin.  A  second  and 
more  satisfactory  investigation  was  promised,  but  has  not  been 
made.  It  is  admitted  that  the  characters  bear  little  resem 
blance  to  those  of  any  known  people  of  old ;  that  the  face  of 
the  rock  is  inaccessible ;  that  marks  more  or  less  like  them  are 
met  with  elsewhere,  and  that  imaginary  figures  of  animals  and 
hunting  scenes  are  found  on  the  faces  of  mountains  in  other 
provinces. 

Like  profiles  of  men  in  mountain  outlines,  or  figures  in  coal 
fires,  these  grooves  in  the  Gavia  may  be  interpreted  into  aught 
imaginative  beholders  please.  They  have,  I  should  say,  as 
much  connection  with  primitive  sea  rovers  as  the  Roman  char 
acters  noticed  on  the  Tejuca,  and  no  more.  If  they  were  chis 
eled  by  human  fingers,  so  was  Anthony's  Nose,  shown  to  travel 
ers  on  the  Hudson  River ;  the  famous  Virginia  bridge  was  built 
by  antediluvian  masons  ;  the  Niagara  was  a  dam  constructed  by 
Titan  millers,  and  the  Devil's  Letters,  impressed  on  a  rock  near 
Cape  Frio,  are  the  veritable  handy-work  of  the  Wicked  One. 
But  how  were  they  produced  ?  With  a  telescope  we  detected 
kindred  indentations  in  process  of  development  on  the  Greater 
[rmao,  and  on  others  of  those  cloud-crested  quarries.  Veins, 
strise,  cracks,  and  crevices  pervade  most,  and  into  them  vegeta 
ble  fibrils  creep,  grow,  and  burst  off  portions  whose  figures  and 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  495 

dimensions  are  governed  by  the  directions  and  extent  of  previous 
fissures,  the  texture  or  grain  at  the  place  of  rupture,  etc.  On 
the  face,  as  on  the  summit  of  the  highest  and  barest  rocks,  these 
thread-like  borers  hunt  for  lodgments  in  the  minutest  chasms, 
creep  into  every  interior  ramification,  and  swell  till  they  dis 
place  the  walls  in  front  of  them.  Such,  I  believe,  were  the 
sculptors  of  the  Gavian  hieroglyphics.  Instances  occur  where 
dislodged  portions  are  protruded,  but  not  sufficiently  so  to  fall : 
they  are  waiting  till  the  powers  behind  expand  again  to  give 
them  another  push.  In  rocks  partly  decomposed  these  slow 
drillers  and  silent  blasters  abound.  They  raise  the  material  in 
shelves,  air  and  water  then  enter,  and  assist  to  break  and  crum 
ble  the  layers  up. 

We  rested  a  while  and  refreshed  us  near  a  venda  at  the  base 
of  the  awful  pile.  Half-naked  children  were  playing  about ; 
one  had  bone  figas  hanging  at  her  ears.  A  man  sat  by  the 
door  patching  a  jacket — an  itinerant  tailor.  His  whole  dress 
consisted  of  a  shirt,  and  pants  that  barely  covered  his  knees : 
his  feet  and  legs  were  greatly  swelled,  and  occupied  his  atten 
tion  as  much  as  his  needle. 

On  our  return,  two  negroes  came  suddenly  on  us  out  of  a 
side  path,  bearing  a  pole  on  their  shoulders.  To  it  was  slung 
the  body  of  a  brother  slave  they  were  going  to  bury.  A  white 
man,  dressed  like  the  tailor,  met  us — a  picture  of  idleness,  dirt, 
and  distress  :  a  specimen,  it  is  said,  of  thousands  in  Brazil, 
whom  slavery,  with  the  feelings  it  has  generated,  makes  wretch 
ed.  Labor  is  degrading,  and  as  they  have  not  the  means  to 
live  respectably  without  it,  what  can  they  do  ?  Custom,  instead 
of  honoring  useful  toil,  withholds  all  stimulus  to  exertion,  and 
in  a  manner  compels  them  'to  degenerate  into  worse  than  In 
dian  habits.  If  they  had  land  they  could  not  cultivate  it  with 
out  slaves,  and  these  they  can  not  buy.  The  climate  favors 
them :  dwellings  are  hardly  necessary,  fuel  and  fire  can  be  dis 
pensed  with,  and,  excepting  fig-leaves,  so  might  clothing.  The 
poor  of  Brazil  are  poor  indeed. 

Pretty  well  used  up,  we  got  home  soon  after  dark,  with  hands 
swelled  with  the  bites  of  borrachudos. 

25tk.  Public  business  suspended  in  honor  of  San  Tiago. 

26th.  Anniversary  of  "  Sta.  Anna,  mae  da  Mae  de  Deos.'" 


406  SKETCHES   OF 

Festas  are  announced  at  her  sanctuary  in  the  Campo,  and  at 
several  others.  As  she  is  a  favorite  advocate,  she  has  a  shrine 
in  most  of  the  churches. 

The  president  of  the  province  of  Eio  has  required  the  attend 
ance  of  the  master  of  the  school  at  Pedropolis  (a  German  and 
Roman  Catholic)  to  explain  the  language  used  by  Bedini  in  an 
address  to  the  scholars.  It  appears  that,  not  content  with 
tlirowing  a  firebrand  among  their  parents  in  the  Church,  he 
charged  the  boys  of  papists  to  hold  no  communication  with  their 
Protestant  school-fellows.  The  master  has  arrived.  He  called 
at  J 's  to-day. 

28tk.  Thermometer  early  this  morning,  63°.  Of  the  whim 
sical  incarnations  of  the  Virgin,  the  novenas  of  a  rare  one  began 
yesterday — Our  Lady  of  Snows  ! 

3Qt/i.  Yesterday  a  princess  was  born,  and  to-day  hundreds 
are  off  to  Christoval ;  not  only  army  and  navy  officers,  priests, 
monks,  and  diplomatists,  but  almost  all  that  can  raise  a  suit 
able  dress,  and  hire  or  borrow  a  carriage  for  the  occasion.  The 
road  is  thronged  with  parties  hastening  to  leave  their  salutations 
for  "  her  serene  highness,  the  imperial  princess  Dona  Isabel 
Christina  Leopoldina  Augusta  Michaela  Gabriela  E/aphaela 
Gonsago" — a  lady  one  day  old !  There  are,  however,  enlight 
ened  spirits  in  Brazil  who  scorn  the  practice.  A  deputy,  in 
offering  a  complimentary  resolution,  dwelt  on  "  the  inapprecia 
ble  honor  of  congratulating  his  imperial  majesty  on  Divine  Prov 
idence  having  conceded  to  him  another  pledge  of  felicity,  and  to 
the  empire  another  glorious  safeguard  to  monarchy."  The  Sol 
omon  was  listened  to,  and  the  Chamber  endorsed  his  wisdom. 

31^.  We  called  at  the  Police-office  to  look  over  the  budget 
of  an  African  conjurer  just  arrested.  There  was  enough  to  load 
a  cart.  A  large  jar,  concealed  by  skirts,  constituted  the  body 
of  the  chief  idol ;  two  smaller  ones  were  of  wood,  with  jointed 
arms,  their  faces  and  heads  smeared  with  blood  and  feathers — 
a  fowl  being  required  of  every  inquirer  ;  iron  prongs  and  stone 
knives,  used  as  sacrificial  implements  ;  goats'  horns,  ivory  tusks, 
skeleton  heads  of  animals,  a  string  of  jaw-bones,  small  boxes 
of  colored  dust,  rattles,  a  ferula,  bundles  of  herbs  (one  of  rue), 
the  scarlet  cap  and  gown  of  the  enchanter,  and  the  curtain  be 
hind  which  he  acted  the  part  of  a  ventriloquist  in  raising  spirits 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  407 

and  conversing  with  them.  Being  a  slave — a  shrewd  Minas — 
he  is  to  be  flogged.  The  justice  says  the  apparatus  of  a  wizard's 
den  is  known  as  a  Candombe,  and  that  these  fellows  are  suc 
cessful  in  plundering  slaves  of  their  little  savings,  and  stimulat 
ing  them  to  rob  their  owners.  Besides  furnishing  harmless 
powders  as  love-potions  to  insure  milder  treatment,  they  some 
times  give  out  ground  glass  and  other  noxious  matters  to  be 
dropped  into  the  master's  food. 


CHAPTER  XXXVII. 

The  Corcovado  Mountain  and  Carioco  Aqueduct :  View  from  chamber  Window. 

Aqueduct  Arches. — Ascent  of  the  Tereza  Hill. — Conduit  and  receiving  Basins. 
— Romantic  Character  of  the  Work — Section  of  Conduit. — Mother  of  Waters. 
— Paineiras  and  Pic-nic. — Forest  Features. — Ascent  of  the  Corcovado. — Vege 
table  Instincts. — Summit  of  the  Mountain. — Prospects  from  it. — Descent. — The 
Paineiras  tributary  to  the  Mother  of  Waters. — Reach  Home  by  Lamp-light.— 
Subsequent  Visits  to  the  Aqueduct. — Its  Length  and  Fall. — Section  of  Channel 
over  the  Arches. — Entire  Length  of  the  Aqueduct  and  Feeders. — Water  furnish 
ed  by  it. — Might  be  conveyed  through  Tubes  into  every  dwelling. — No  Reser 
voirs. 

J—  -  and  I  having  agreed  to  visit  the  hunchback,  the  great 
natural  lion  of  Rio,  I  awoke  early  amid  such  streams  of  golden 
light  as  poets  invest  celestials  with.  Before  leaving  the  room, 
let  us  raise  the  ponderous  sash  and  take  a  peep  outside.  Ap 
parently  not  more  than  a  mile  off,  yonder  rises,  at  the  left,  beau 
tiful  Mount  Martha,  a  perfect  cone,  and  the  most  conspicuous 
of  an  insulated  crowd.  In  its  rear  a  somewhat  similar  form 
ed  pile  towers  over  all  the  country  and  the  ocean  near.  Its  apex 
is  a  pinnacle,  abrupt,  on  one  side  precipitous.  To  mount  it 
seems  impossible,  and  yet  it  is  said  to  have  been  scaled  on 
horseback,  though  where  the  animal  found  standing-room,  save 
for  his  hind  feet  in  a  rearing  attitude,  does  not  appear.  That  is 
the  Corcovado,  and  to  its  very  summit  we  are  bound.  Scarcely 
a  cloud  dots  the  blue  vault  of  heaven,  but,  as  usual,  milk-white 
fleeces  are  floating  half  way  down  the  gigantic  range,  while  one, 
pure  as  driven  snow  and  dense  as  chalk,  has  within  the  last  few 
moments  cut  off  the  black  peak  from  the  body.* 

*  This  trip  to  the  Corcovado  was  made  in  the  latter  end  of  March,  but  the  MS. 
account  of  it  having  been  mislaid,  it  is  inserted  here.  It  had  been  unnecessary  to 
mention  this  but  for  references  to  some  winter  flowers. 


408 


SKETCHES   OF 


THE    CORCOVADO. 


We  were  soon  off,  in  white  roundabouts  and  wide  straw  hats. 
k'But  how  is  this?"  I  inquired;  "we  are  going  from,  not  to 
ward  the  mountain."  "  The  longest  way  is  the  shortest,"  was 
the  sententious  reply.  We  soon  came  to  Arcos  Street,  so  named 
from  the  double  tier  of  arches  on  which  the  Carioco  stream  is 
conveyed  from  the  lower  part  of  Tereza  to  Antonio  Hill.  Col 
lected  in  the  Corcovado  glens,  I  now  learned  that  only  on  the 
artificial  elevations,  made  to  bring  the  water  to  the  city,  can  that 
mountain  be  approached.  Our  way,  therefore,  lies  along  the 
most  picturesque  of  aqueducts,  and  thus  a  double  pleasure  at 
tends  us.  While  waiting  in  Arcos  Street  for  our  saddle-horses, 
the  outlines  of  the  scene  were  taken.  At  our  right  towered  a 
part  of  the  aqueduct  arches ;  facing  us  arose  the  dead  wall  of 
the  Tereza  Convent  garden,  and  over  it  banana-trees  hanging ; 
at  its  left  extremity  began  the  steep  road  we  had  to  travel. 
Above  the  garden  appeared  a  grassy  hill,  and  beyond  it  the  con 
vent  church.  Projecting  from  the  wall  are  spouts  to  supply  the 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL. 


409 


vicinity  with  water.  Not  less  than  two  dozen  slaves,  of  both 
sexes,  came  to  fill  their  barils  during  the  few  minutes  we  wait 
ed,  several  of  whom  carried  the  liquid  high  up  the  hill  down 
which  it  comes. 

Though  one  of  the  most  interesting  structures  through  which 
life's  liquid  ever  ran,  the  aqueduct  has  never  been  described ; 
it  will  therefore  be  considered  the  principal  object  of  the  trip, 
and  of  other  trips,  for  a  week  might  be  profitably  devoted  to  it 
alone.  The  Tereza  is  the  highest  of  the  city  hills,  and  from  its 
summit  the  fluid  descends.  This  hill,  which  in  most  lands 
would  be  called  a  mountain,  is  not  insulated,  but  joins  more 
aspiring  peaks  in  its  rear.  We  are  now  about  to  scale  it.  The 


ABCOS    STREET. 


410  SKETCHES    OF 

lower  part  of  the  road,  beginning  at  Arcos  Street,  is  paved,  the 
rest  is  broken  and  rugged  as  a  gully.  Up  the  long  and  tortu 
ous  steep  we  ride,  grasping  the  pommels  of  our  saddles  to  pre 
vent  sliding  off  behind. 

As  we  proceeded,  a  stone  fence  or  stuccoed  wall,  varying 
from  live  to  eight  feet  in  height,  was  at  our  right.  It  turned 
with  the  road,  and  rose  and  fell  with  it.  I  supposed  it  was  de 
signed  to  keep  the  high  ground  behind  it  from  caving  in  and 
blocking  up  the  pathway,  but  at  certain  distances  it  was  capped 
with  peaked  ridges  extending  across  it,  and  their  ends  flush  with 
its  face.  An  opening  appeared  in  each  ridge.  Asking  for  an  ex 
planation,  I  was  quite  taken  by  surprise  on  being  told  that  this 
wall,  as  I  called  it,  was  hollow,  and  neither  more  nor  less  than 
a  part  of  the  famous  conduit.  I  dismounted,  put  my  ear  to 
one  of  the  openings,  and,  sure  enough,  heard  the  sound  of  rush 
ing  water.  The  difference  in  the  height  of  the  structure  arose 
from  the  irregularity  of  the  ground.  With  us,  such  works — 
the  Croton,  for  example — have  a  slight  and  nearly  uniform  de 
scent,  but  here  they  glide  along  gentle  inclinations  in  one  place, 
and  dash  down  declivities  steep  as  old  Dutch  roofs  in  another. 

We  had  now  risen  between  seventy  and  eighty  feet  above  the 
pavement  in  Arcos  Street,  a  few  feet  above  the  upper  tier  of 
arches,  and  were  but  a  short  distance  from  them,  when,  at  a 
turn  in  the  road,  we  came  to  the  first  "  caixa" — the  name  of  a 
structure  built  over  a  receiving-basin,  where  great  changes  in 
the  direction  or  descent  of  the  channel  occur.  Before  reaching 
it,  the  wall-like  structure  had  left  the  road,  but  here  it  appeared 
again,  ascending  from  the  caixa  in  two  stretches,  and  disap 
pearing  in  the  side  of  a  hill,  upon  which  the  Tereza  Church  and 
Convent  stand,  as  seen  in  the  sketch  on  the  next  page.  The 
upper  stretch  has  a  fall  (as  I  subsequently  ascertained)  of  fifty 
inches  in  fifteen  feet ;  the  lower  one  enters  the  caixa  with  a  de 
scent  of  thirty-nine  inches  in  fifteen  feet.  From  this  caixa  the 
channel  passes  directly  to  the  arches. 

After  passing  the  convent,  the  conduit  appeared  again,  and 
accompanied  us  up  to  the  summit  of  the  Tereza  Mountain, 
where  we  stood  something  like  three  hundred  feet  above  the 
pavement  below,  and  here  is  only  the  beginning,  as  it  were,  of 
this  romantic  specimen  of  engineering.  It  takes  a  turn  at  right 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL. 


411 


ANt    L'fclXA. 


angles  on  the  right,  and  wriggling  zigzag  fashion,  like  a  worm- 
fence,  is  soon  lost  to  view  in  the  forest.  Tc  accommodate  the 
inhabitants  of  a  few  houses  on  the  summit,  an  iron  grating  is  let 
into  the  face  of  the  work,  through  which  slaves  lade  out  the  fluid 
with  a  calabash  or  cocoa-shell  into  their  barils.  The  interior  di 
mensions  being  thus  open  to  the  light,  I  dismounted  and  made 
a  minute  of  them.  I  subsequently  found  they  were  the  same 
throughout  the  entire  length  of  the  work.  Now  let  the  reader 
imagine  the  vast  consumption  of  water  in  so  populous  a  city 
within  the  tropics  as  Rio  Janeiro,  and  try  to  infer  the  capacity 
of  this,  the  chief  source  of  its  supply.  Perhaps  with  me,  when 
I  first  viewed  yon  extensive  range  of  forty  massive  arches  be 
low,  elevated  as  they  are  upon  an  equal  number,  for  conveying 
the  fluid  across  a  valley  of  near  a  thousand  feet,  and  at  an  ele 
vation  of  some  sixty  feet  above  the  heads  of  citizens  in  the 
streets,  he  will  be  inclined  to  assign  to  it  the  capacity  of  a  canal. 
But,  speculate  as  he  may,  he  could  hardly  realize  or  even  ap 
proach  the  reality.  So  interesting  in  its  course,  its  deviations, 


SECTION    OF    THE    CARIOCO    AQUEDUCT. 


412  SKETCHES   OF 

and  descents  as  this  aqueduct  is,  its  volume  of  liquid  took  me 
with  the  most  surprise.  I  may  as  well  give  a  section  here,  for 
without  one  the  peculiarities  of  this  chief  of  Brazilian  water 
works  can  not  be  understood. 

The  figure  represents  a  cross  section  at  a  spot  where  the 

whole  was  beneath  the  sur 
face,  showing  the  interior, 
where  a  person  can  conven 
iently  walk  upright,  while  the 
width  is  almost  sufficient  for 
two  to  go  abreast.  The  space 
is  six  feet  by  three.  The 
walls,  of  ordinary  masonry, 
are  twenty-one  inches  thick, 
the  dome  is  arched  with  brick 
and  covered  with  a  peaked 
roof  of  gravel  and  mortar, 
and  the  whole  plastered  with  a  coat  of  lime  and  clay — the  same 
as  all  rough  walls  in  the  city,  and  which,  from  the  humidity  of 
the  climate,  never  hardens  sufficiently  to  resist  a  pointed  stick 
or  the  end  of  an  umbrella.  The  work  appears  at  different  ele 
vations  above  the  surface,  and  sometimes,  though  rarely,  disap 
pears  beneath  it. 

Is  it  asked  how  high  the  water  rises  up  the  walls  ?  It  does 
does  not  touch  them.  Its  surface  is  below  them.  It  flows 
through  a  semicircular  channel,  cut  in  granite  slabs  laid  at  the 
bottom.  The  extreme  depth  of  the  channel  is  nine  and  a  half 
inches,  and  the  width  at  the  widest  part  is  nine  inches  —  a 
mere  gutter !  and,  small  as  it  is,  seldom  over  two  thirds  full — 
that  is,  except  where  the  inclination  is  very  moderate.  These 
gutters  were  brought  from  Portugal :  the  blocks  vary  from  three 
to  eight  feet  in  length,  and  are  seldom  less  than  two  in  width. 
A  course  of  bricks  on  each  side  fills  the  space  between  them 
and  the  walls.  We  passed  several  blocks  lying  about ;  in  some 
the  channel  is  elbowed,  in  others  a  small  one  crosses  the  main 
one.  Some  of  these  weighed  not  less  than  half  a  ton.  Their 
conveyance  up  here  in  early  times  must  have  been  an  immense 
labor. 

We  now  continued  along  a  narrow  and  grassy  road  cut  in 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  413 

the  breast  of  mountains — a  forest  precipice  at  one  hand,  and 
the  aqueduct,  presenting  a  wall  seldom  less  than  five  feet  high, 
at  the  other.  A  velvet  foot-path  occasionally  runs  along  its 
roof,  while  rocks  and  trees  tower  far  above  it.  A  solitary 
chacara  appears  now  and  then,  and  gratings  in  the  conduit. 
They  are  doors  composed  of  bars  five  or  six  inches  apart, 
their  lower  edges  being  level  with  the  water-channel.  To  facili 
tate  the  dipping  of  the  fluid,  a  lateral  basin  adjoining  the  bars 
communicates  with  the  current.  When  the  water  is  below  the 
surface  of  the  ground,  a  few  steps  lead  down  to  the  grating, 
wherever  chacaras  in  the  vicinity  require  one. 

We  came  to  one  of  these  that  was  unlocked.  It  was  four 
feet  square,  so  I  stepped  inside  of  the  aqueduct,  and  walked 
some  distance  along  it.  There  is  sufficient  light  to  go  from  one 
extremity  to  the  other,  for  openings  ten  inches  by  seven  occur 
every  fifteen  or  twenty  feet.  The  fall  was  here  not  less  than 
two  feet  in  twenty;  the  little  stream  gurgled  as  it  rushed  be 
tween  my  feet,  and  boiled  and  foamed  in  the  basin  at  the  grat 
ing.  The  wall  seldom  continues  over  a  hundred  feet  without 
turning.  It  consists  of  a  succession  of  short  stretches,  invari 
ably  in  right  lines,  and  broken  laterally  into  every  diversity  of 
angles. 

The  Humpback  occasionally  rises  above  the  forest,  remind 
ing  us  that  our  visit  is  also  to  him.  Away  down  below  us  is  a 
real  Buena  Vista- — Engenho  Velha  and  the  Christoval  Palace, 
which  latter  looks  small  enough  to  put  in  one's  pocket.  A  little 
farther,  and  we  ride  over  the  aqueduct  between  two  triangular 
columns,  like  the  posts  of  a  gateway.  Both  alike,  they  are 
named  brothers.  We  passed  between  a  similar  pair  before. 
The  prospect  soon  becomes  circumscribed,  and  the  scenery  wild 
er.  Little  but  trees  and  sky  is  visible.  Close  at  our  right,  the 
mountain  forests  reach  to  heaven,  and  immediately  at  our  left 
descend  to  depths  that  make  one  shudder.  A  false  step,  and 
horse  and  rider  are  plunged  to  destruction.  The  place  is  ren 
dered  still  more  dangerous,  it  is  alleged,  by  runaway  slaves,  who 
harbor  here,  and  prowl  about  for  means  to  live.  At  one  spot 
we  caught  a  sight  of  the  Larangeiras  valley,  its  road  reduced  to 
a  thread  of  vermilion  in  a  web  of  green  baize. 

Proceeding,  the  air  becomes  damper,  and  the  overhanging 


414 


SKETCHES   OF 


trees  seem  about  to  rain.  Their  dense  foliage  prevents  the  sun 
from  penetrating,  and  the  conduit  becomes  coated  with  moss. 
Its  roof  has  in  some  places  disappeared,  leaving  the  arch  ex 
posed,  and  here  and  there  fallen  in.  The  old  imported  bricks 
that  compose  it  are  of  the  same  dimensions  as  those  now  made 
in  the  country.  At  a  turn  in  the  work  a  tiny  stream — the  La- 
goinha  feeder — comes  down  the  overhanging  mountains,  broken 
into  spray  in  the  fall,  and,  gathered  at  the  bottom,  joins  the 
aqueduct  in  an  open  tile.  Brought  from  a  distance  of  between 
six  and  seven  hundred  Brazilian  fathoms  in  tile  channels,  it 
would  at  present  scarcely  fill  an  inch  tube. 

Wishing  a  thousand  times  that  I  was  on  foot,  we  came  at 
length  to  Mai  de  Agua>  "  The  Mother  of  Waters,"  a  rude  ba- 


THE    MOTHER   OF    VVATKK8. 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  415 

sin,  some  thirty  feet  by  twelve,  formed  in  the  rock,  and  having 
a  rural  roof  over  it.  The  water,  fifteen  inches  deep,  does  not 
spring  up  within  it,  but  comes  down,  a  miniature  cataract,  from 
projecting  precipices,  the  place  from  where  it  leaps  being  con 
cealed  by  trees  and  dense  foliage. 

Here,  at  a  tortuous  distance  of  between  four  and  five  miles 
from  the  city,  and  some  seven  hundred  feet  above  it,  the  aque^ 
duct,  as  I  supposed,  terminated  ;  but  no,  not  even  here.  This 
is  simply  the  spot  where  tributary  streams  unite,  and  whence 
they  descend  in  one  volume  to  the  town.  The  idea  of  a  river 
or  rivulet  running  through  a  little  stone  gutter  may  excite  a 
smile,  and  yet  that  gutter  is  the  outlet  of  several.  The  Carioco 
River,  as  it  is  called,  brings  in  the  principal  supply  to  the 
Mother  of  Waters.  Its  source  is  in  the  mountain  fastnesses,  and 
all  but  inaccessible :  it  has  five  branches — the  Corcovado,  des 
Velhas,  Serra,  Lagurnal,  and  Kegilio.  These,  with  the  parent 
stream,  are  brought  in  open  tiles.  Two  other  rivulets  are  also 
diverted  hither — the  Silvestre  and  Paineiras.  The  length  of 
the  latter  is  said  to  be  some  thousand  fathoms,  and  an  expen 
sive  work.  Properly  speaking,  all  these  waters  are  springs, 
whose  trickling  treasures  are  thus  gathered  together.  Each  is 
named  after  the  mountain  from  whose  sides,  or  the  cavern  out 
of  which,  it  gushes.  In  wet  weather  they  become  torrents,  and 
hence  provision  is  made  at  the  mother  reservoir  to  discharge 
the  surplus  down  the  dark  yawning  gulf  at  the  edge  of  which 
it  is  located. 

There  is  here  a  grating  in  the  side  of  the  conduit  which  en 
abled  me  again  to  mark  and  measure  the  interior.  The  dimen 
sions  and  character  of  the  whole  were  found  precisely  as  repre 
sented  in  the  section  taken  on  the  Tereza  Hill.  The  descent 
of  the  channel  is  here  moderate,  and  the  water  rises  to  the  brim. 
At  the  junction  of  the  conduit  with  the  reservoir  there  is  a  cor 
roded  marble  tablet  let  into  the  end  wall  of  the  latter.  The  in 
scription  is  in  old  and  abbreviated  Portuguese.  With  some 
difficulty  we  made  out  the  letters  :  they  are  to  this  effect :  "Un 
der  our  Lord  King  John  V.,  Gomes  Freire  de  Andrade,  Govern 
or  and  Captain  General,  and  Councilor  to  the  King,  1744."  Here 
is  no  intimation  when  the  work  was  begun,  or  by  whom  it  was 
projected  and  executed.  This  is  to  be  regretted,  since  there  is 


416  SKETCHES    OF 

not  a  line  in  the  public  archives  relating  to  its  history.  Agree 
ably  to  monarchical  modesty,  every  thing  eminently  useful  and 
honorable  must  be  ascribed  to  royalty  and  its  satraps. 

It  is  not  easy  to  impart  an  adequate  idea  of  the  Mother  of 
Waters,  buried  as  it  is  in  a  tropical  forest,  amid  scenes  inde 
scribably  picturesque  and  sublime.  As  for  that  portion  of  the 
aqueduct  along  which  we  have  come,  another  time  must  ]be 
taken  to  examine  it  particularly.  There  is  a  moral  influence 
about  it  in  such  a  day  as  this.  An  emblem  of  youth  and  in 
nocence,  its  crystal  current  gushes  and  sparkles  as  from  excess 
of  joy,  running,  leaping,  and  changing  its  course  and  its  speed 
as  in  wantonness  of  play.  A  kindred  feeling  arises,  we  wot  not 
how,  within  us.  Buoyant  and  elastic,  pleased  with  ourselves 
and  all  about  us,  heaven  and  earth  seem  one.  Exulting  in  our 
being,  emotions  such  as  swell  in  angels'  breasts  heave  in  ours, 
and  burst  out  into  ejaculations  of  praise.  To  hypochondriacs 
the  Mai  de  Agua  would  prove  a  fountain  of  health,  and  effica 
cious  as  the  pool  of  Siloam.  Melancholy  would  leave  them 
ere  they  reached  it.  Like  the  lepers  of  old,  they  would  be  heal 
ed  by  the  way. 

Having  so  much  work  before  us,  we  could  linger  no  longer. 
As  we  pressed  on,  the  road  became  less  and  less  inviting.  It 
was  well  enough  for  men  who  have  tame  tigers  to  ride  on,  but 
not  for  timid  travelers  on  nags  of  the  equus  genus.  I  preferred 
leading  mine  to  mounting  him.  After  a  while,  a  neat  little  line 
of  embankment  appeared,  running  along  the  right  of  the  path. 
It  formed  a  low  grassy  wall,  on  the  top  of  which  an  uncovered 
line  of  bright  red  tiles  was  imbedded — the  channel  through 
which  the  Silvestre's  tribute  was  borne  along  to  the  Mai  de 
Agua.  The  liquid  volume  was  scarcely  equal  to  the  bore  of  a 
three-inch  tube.  A  little  farther,  and  a  feeder  of  like  construc 
tion  came  out  of  the  dark  woods,  and  joined  it.  The  path 
widened,  but  close  to  our  right  rocks  and  trees  shot  up  to  heav 
en,  while  at  our  left  the  scene  was  awfully  precipitous.  A  few 
minutes  more,  and  we  were  completely  hid  in  the  forest.  Trees 
were  above,  below,  behind,  before,  and  all  but  in  contact  with 
us.  Nothing  else  was  visible  except,  now  and  then,  a  few 
inches  of  sky  between  translucent  leaves,  quivering  hundreds 
of  feet  above  us — Nature's  green  lattices. 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  417 

We  had  got  out  of  the  track,  and,  fortunately,  a  loud  hilloa  ! 
caused  us  to  stand.  The  warning  came  from  Pompey,  who  left 
home  before  us  with  a  basket  of  provisions,  and  was  resting 
near  by.  Now  both  in  the  stirrups,  we  sprung  our  horses  up 
a  gulley — a  feat  that  a  circus-rider  might  boast  of — and  rode 
past  a  mud-built  house,  in  front  of  which  lay  a  heap  of  coffee- 
berries  drying  in  the  sun.  Slaves  were  picking  clusters  from 
trees  in  the  rear  and  bringing  them  in  baskets  to  the  pile.  Con 
tinuing  on,  the  Corcovado  peak,  which  we  have  scarcely  seen 
or  thought  of  for  some  time,  now  frowns  in  front,  and  looks  as  if 
inclined  to  tumble  on  us.  The  little  tile  conduit  appears  once 
more,  and  the  scenery  is  quite  enchanting.  Every  few  yards' 
advance  produces  a  new  view.  Still  the  forest  occasionally  as 
cends  to  the  clouds  on  one  side,  and  sinks  at  the  other  into 
depths  and  darkness.  Far  ahead,  and  at  least  a  hundred  feet 
above  me,  his  white  dress  finely  contrasting  with  the  forest's 
livery,  J—  -  is  passing  a  turn  in  the  road,  which  is  so  crooked 
and  so  up  and  down  that  his  horse's  head  is  in  the  opposite  di 
rection  to  mine:  he  is  leaning  back  over  the  animal's  rump, 
while  my  face  is  touching  the  mane  of  my  steed. 

The  saints  be  praised!  a  level  spot,  on  which  to  rest  a  mo 
ment,  is  at  length  attained.  My  poor  nag  blows  as  if  his  lungs, 
like  a  damaged  pair  of  bellows,  were  ruptured.  The  road  we 
have  just  climbed  must  at  least  be  on  an  angle  of  40°  —  a 
heavy  drag  for  horses,  and  not  less  for  our  peon.  Yet  slaves, 
it  is  said,  consider  the  job  a  treat,  and  enjoy  it  as  much  as  their 

masters.     Hark !  J is  calling ;  the  only  sound,  save  that 

from  my  horse's  nostrils,  which  I've  heard  for  some  time.  The 
animal  is,  I  believe,  familiar  with  the  route,  and  I've  begun  to 
yield  up  the  reins  to  him.  He  tacks  from  side  to  side  as  he 
creeps  up,  and  now  and  then  passes  into  a  twelve-inch  track  on 
the  very  verge  of  the  gulf.  Till  he  gets  off  it  I  instinctively  in 
cline  my  body  the  other  way.  J is  shouting  again,  but  I 

have  no  idea  of  saving  a  minute  at  the  risk  of  being  sent,  by  a 
false  step,  on  a  flying  visit  to  forests  which,  for  aught  I  know, 
are  a  thousand  fathoms  beneath  me,  taking  a  leap  terrible  as 
that  of  Curtius. 

A  feeble  sound  of  water  comes  up  from  glens  into  which  the 
solar  light  for  unnumbered  ages  has  probably  never  shone,  so 

DD 


SKETCHES    OF 

deep  and  dense  the  screen  that  intervenes.  Here  two  trunks 
of  trees  extend  diagonally  across  the  road,  and  are  partly  sunk 
in  it — terrible  traps  for  the  feet  of  men  and  cattle  in  the  dark. 
Six  inches  apart,  they  form  a  gutter  to  convey  part  of  the  wa 
ter  streaming  down  in  wet  weather  to  cultivated  spots  of  ground. 
Other  agricultural  indications  occur.  The  ugly  gutters  become 
more  frequent,  and  demand  constant  attention  on  our  part.  The 
road  descends,  and  presently  we  cross  the  stream  whose  mur 
murs  we  had  heard — one  of  the  tributaries  to  the  Mother  of  Wa 
ters,  three  feet  wide  and  three  to  five  inches  deep.  The  limpid 
fluid,  which  our  horses  were  glad  to  taste,  gurgles  for  a  few  yards 
among  pebbles,  whirls  in  tiny  eddies  by  moss-covered  boulders, 
and  darts  out  of  sight. 

Crossing  the  brooklet  once  more,  and  this  time  on  a  wooden 
bridge,  the  road  improves.  Here  another  tile  conduit  occurred, 
nearly  level  with  our  horses'  feet,  but  quite  dry ;  a  handsome 
row  of  coifee-trees  and  another  of  oranges  now  inclose  us,  the 
ridge  of  a  roof  is  visible  above,  and  soon  we  dismount  on  a  level 
spot,  and  join  a  party  of  gentlemen  from  the  city  in  a  delicious 
pic-nic. 

This  place  is  called  "The  Paineiras,"  from  trees  of  that 
name,  for  which  the  adjoining  mountains  once  were  famous. 
Numbers  still  are  flourishing,  resembling  grown  oaks  in  size, 
and  producing,  in  place  of  acorns,  snow-balls  of  cotton.  Each 
is  a  genuine  noli  me  tangere,  its  bole  being  closely  studded  with 
cones  half  an  inch  at  the  base,  projecting  about  the  same  dis 
tance,  and  compared  with  whose  sharp  points  cambric  needles 
are  blunt  as  one's  fingers. 

The  Paineiras  branch  of  the  aqueduct  comes  in  here  on  its 
way  to  join  the  Mai  de  Agua.  A  small  building  accommodates 
the  overseer  of  the  work.  Here  are  stables  in  which  to  leave 
our  steeds,  the  rest  of  the  journey  having  to  be  done  on  foot. 
This  platform  is,  to  some  extent,  artificial.  At  the  extremity 
opposite  to  the  one  by  which  we  reached  it,  the  view  opens 
down  a  huge  gorge  to  the  sea.  It  connects  the  Corcovado  and 
Paineiras  Mountains,  and  may  be  taken  as  part  of  either,  as  it 
rests  on  both.  On  our  left  the  former  rises,  and  at  the  right 
the  latter  stretch  away  past  the  Botanic  Garden,  which  they 
overhang  in  awful  grandeur. 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL.  419 

In  coming  thus  far,  one  feature  of  the  forest  was  observable : 
the  general  green  foliage  was  dotted  with  patches  of  light  and 
dark  purple,  and  here  and  there  with  masses  of  yellow  flowers. 
These  are  Brazilian  "signs  of  winter."  The  purple  gems  are 
"the  flowers  of  Lent;"  of  the  mourning  color,  and  opening  at 
the  commencement  of  the  long  fast,  Nature  is  supposed  to  sym 
pathize  with  that  season  of  mortification.  The  yellows  ripen  at 
Easter,  and,  being  of  "the  color  of  joy,"  are  aptly  named  "Al- 
lelulias."  The  "martyr  flower"  grows  on  a  small  plant,  is 
shaped  like  a  lily,  and  of  a  deep  purple  approaching  to  indigo. 
Two  varieties  of  the  passion  flower  are  also  cherished,  purple 
and  crimson :  they  open  in  Lent,  and  in  each  the  devout  see  the 
spear  that  pierced  the  Savior,  the  nails  that  fastened  him  to  the 
tree,  the  whip  that  scourged  him  and  ten  of  the  apostles.  We 
passed  many  "  silver  trees,"  the  entire  foliage  white  and  glis 
tening. 

Invigorated,  and  provided  with  stout  walking-sticks,  we  now 
began  the  zigzag  ascent  of  the  Corcovado.  Boots,  large  and 
small,  run  quite  across  the  road,  and  some,  resembling  taut  ropes, 
a  foot  above  it ;  primitive  gutters,  like  those  below,  and  boul 
ders  also,  interrupt  us ;  still,  it  is  considered  in  good  condition, 
late  heavy  rains  having  cleared  away  the  worst  obstruction,  viz., 
leaves.  They  are  so  slippery  as  to  make  the  ascent  trouble 
some  in  the  extreme,  and  the  descent  more  so. 

Here  I  first  observed,  and  stopped  to  admire,  large  trees,  the 
horizontal  sections  of  whose  boles  present  cusped  or  star- shaped 
figures,  and  here  I  beheld  a  fine  example  of  vegetable  instinct. 
Every  where  trees,  when  prevented  from  growing  upright,  seek 
to  recover  their  natural  position,  and  to  equalize  the  strain  on 
their  roots  by  sending  them  and  branches  out  in  the  opposite  di 
rection.  Where  the  face  of  the  mountain  rises  at  an  angle  of 
50°,  a  noble  tree  partially  inclines  down  for  eight  or  ten  feet, 
and  then,  as  if  the  original  obstacle  had  there  been  overcome, 
ascends  perpendicularly  sixty  feet  before  throwing  out  its  branch 
es.  How  enormous  the  strain  on  the  upper  roots  that  prevent 
its  prostration !  After  passing  it,  I  was  surprised  to  see  a  large 
vertical  triangular  slab  protruding  from  it  behind,  and  entering 
the  ground.  Not  knowing  what  to  make  of  it,  and  almost  think 
ing  it  an  artificial  bracket,  I  clambered  up  and  found  it  a  natu- 


420  SKETCHES   OF 

ral  one — a  sheet  of  plank  of  a  uniform  thickness  throughout, 
viz.,  2J  inches. 

The  higher  we  mount,  the  steeper  becomes  the  path,  the 
quicker  and  shorter  our  breath.  The  trees  diminish  in  number 
and  dimensions,  scrub  bushes  appear,  and  at  length  we  emerge 
on  the  base  of  the  peak.  The  sun  is  broiling  hot,  and  not  an 
inch  of  shade  to  be  had.  My  companion  declares  he  can  not 
stand  the  grilling,  and  after  cautioning  me  not  to  venture  near 
the  surrounding  precipices,  he  dove  at  once  into  the  forest,  leav 
ing  me  solus  on  the  mighty  pinnacle. 

A  sense  of  loneliness  and  a  slight  tinge  of  fear  crept  over  me, 
but  I  was  mistaken  in  anticipating  naught  but  still-life  here.  A 
heavy  bird,  white  underneath,  came  sailing  up  from  the  Laran- 
geiras  glens,  wheeled  and  floated  high  overhead,  then  suddenly 
swept  down  again — I  suppose  an  eagle  on  the  hunt.  Numer 
ous  swallows  darted  hither  and  thither  close  to  me,  and  twice  a 
gorgeous  green  beetle  lit  on  my  arm.  Ants — the  great  domestic 
pCSt — have  colonies  here.  They  kept  running  over  the  paper 
in  my  hand,  though  how  they  got  on  it  puzzled  me.  Other  na 
tives  of  the  place  not  less  vindictive  attacked  me.  An  ear  be 
gan  to  pain  me — I  found  it  inflamed  and  bleeding. 

The  prospect  from  where  I  stood  was  so  striking,  that  I  de 
termined,  before  advancing,  to  preserve  it  in  memory  for  a  sketch. 
Four  upright  sticks,  over  which  some  party  had  stretched  a 
sheet  or  other  screen,  were  standing  near.  I  tried  to  spread  a 
handkerchief  at  one  corner,  and  subsequently  my  jacket,  but, 
having  nothing  properly  to  secure  them,  they  were  so  repeat 
edly  displaced  by  currents  of  air  that  I  returned  them  to  their 
former  places,  and  mentally  told  Apollo  to  do  his  worst. 

In  front  the  rock  rises  sixty  or  seventy  feet  above  me — a 
dark,  irregular,  ruptured  cone,  relieved  by  the  sky.  At  its 
edges  a  few  shrubs  and  creeping  plants  hang  over  the  abyss. 
Rails  to  guard  people  from  falling  over  precipitous  portions  of 
the  rock  are  seen  at  the  summit.  To  the  left  the  pile  rounds 
quickly  off  into  awful  declivities  at  the  side  up  which  we  have 
come,  exposing  to  view  the  city  suburbs  in  distant  depths,  the 
Bay,  and  the  mountains  of  Nictherohy,  which  last  look  like  a 
broken  wall  as  seen  through  mist.  At  the  right  the  ocean  forms 
the  horizon,  and  touches  the  Gavia  at  the  extreme  right.  Four 


LIFE   IN    BRAZIL. 


421 


-.: 


SUMMIT   OF  THE   CORCOVADO. 


islands  rise  out  of  the  placid  water.  On  one  the  light-house — 
a  diminutive  thing — glistens  like  a  pin  stuck  in  a  dark  velvet 
cushion.  Between  these  and  a  nearly  level  line  of  precipice 
running  within  twenty  feet  of  me,  nothing  is  visible  but  an  as 
semblage  of  isolated  peaks,  rivaling  in  vain  the  eminence  on 
which  I  stand.  I  drew  near  and  glanced  down  among  them, 
but  drew  back  with  a  shudder. 

Climbing  higher  up  the  contracting  rock,  its  outline  and  ap 
pearance  were  so  changed  that  I  stopped  and  took  another 
sketch.  The  two  widely-extended  wings  of  the  low  wooden 
railing  opened  before  me,  the  rest  being  concealed  behind  the 
peak,  which  now  appears  a  rounded  and  uneven  swelling.  All 
is  bleak  and  bare  of  vegetation  save  where  a  few  minute  blades 
are  struggling  through  crevices  in  the  granite,  and  a  withered 
stump  leaning  over  the  precipice  at  the  right.  Upon  its  ex 
tremity  sat  a  bird  of  the  color  and  size  of  a  thrush,  whose  pewit 
voice  drew  my  attention  to  it.  It  remained,  turning  its  head 


422  SKETCHES   OF 

and  eyeing  me  for  some  time.  Once  or  twice  it  darted  off,  and 
as  suddenly  changing  its  mind,  returned.  At  length,  at  the 
call  of  its  mate,  it  dropped  out  of  sight.  From  it  I  turned  and 
contemplated  some  pebbles  at  my  feet,  varying  from  half  an 
inch  to  four  inches  over.  Surprised,  at  first  I  wondered  how 
they  came  here.  A  slight  examination  explained  all.  Frag 
ments  of  feldspar,  one  of  the  chief  constituents  of  the  Corcovado, 
they  have  been  cut  from  its  surface,  and  their  angles  rounded 
by  the  elements,  and  have  progressed  thus  far  on  their  journey 
down,  and  in  the  process  of  disintegration  and  transmutation 
into  soil. 

The  ascent  is  overcome  with  little  difficulty  and  with  less 
danger,  provided  one  keep  midway  between  the  precipices  at  ei 
ther  hand.  On  stepping  up  within  the  railing,  the  origin  of  the 
pebbles  was  evident.  The  entire  surface  of  the  rock  was  paved 
with  white  roundish  stones  imbedded  in  black  cement,  and  look 
ing  at  a  short  distance  not  unlike  the  floor  of  an  artificial  grot 
to.  The  dark  matrix,  being  a  more  dissoluble  ingredient  of  the 
granite  than  the  feldspar,  is  soon  worn  and  washed  away,  and 
leaves  the  latter  in  relief.  Then  the  dissolving  agents,  after 
penetrating  beneath  the  surface,  extend  their  influence  horizon 
tally.  After  breaking  the  blade  of  a  strong  knife  in  endeavor 
ing  to  obtain  specimens,  I  succeeded  in  raising  a  piece  three  feet 
by  two,  and  three  inches  thick  where  it  parted  from  the  general 
mass.  Part  crumbled  in  my  hands,  and  portions  had  already 
assumed  the  tint  of  the  loam  beneath. 

Such  is  the  process  by  which  nature  has  been  lowering  the 
Corcovado  Peak,  and  converting  it  into  vegetable  mould  from 
epochs  anterior  to  the  birth  of  animals,  and  possibly  of  plants. 
Its  nude,  mottled,  dissolving  crest  doubtless  presents,  in  these 
respects,  the  same  appearances  it  has  ever  shown  since  heat  and 
moisture  began  to  act  on  it,  and  since  winds  and  rains,  thun 
ders  and  lightnings  have  played  round  it.  What  its  elevation 
was  originally,  who  can  tell?  Still,  the  idea  has  repeatedly 
forced  itself  on  me,  that  something  like  data  from  which  to  cal 
culate  the  age  of  these  insulated  granitic  piles  might  possibly  be 
derived  from  the  depth  of  soil  collected  on  the  sides  and  bases, 
compared  with  the  detritus  borne  down  during  a  few  centuries, 
if  proper  means  were  taken  to  ascertain  the  amount. 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  423 

While  engaged  with  the  specimens  I  intended  to  take,  the 
movements  of  a  small  creature  drew  me  close  to  the  rails.  It 
was  a  lizard  at  the  very  edge  of  the  cliff,  down  which  the  tail 
and  part  of  its  body  hung.  Gazing 'a  moment  at  me,  it  darted 
out  of  sight — perished,  as  I  supposed  ;  but  no ;  in  a  twinkling 
it  appeared  at  the  brink  some  ten  feet  off,  and,  raising  its  head, 
turned  its  beautiful  orbs  again  on  me.  While  looking  at  it  I 
forgot  the  awful  chasms ;  but  now  the  sight,  on  drawing  near, 
made  me  recoil  with  giddiness. 

A  few  yards  more,  and  I  stood  on  the  swelled  protuberance, 
the  apex  of  the  mountain,  as  I  imagined ;  but  lo !  two  distinct 
peaks  now  appeared,  separated  by  a  cleft  whose  sides  present 
frightful  perpendicular  terminations.  The  railing  now  gathered 
in,  and  descended  to  a  wooden  bridge,  seven  or  eight  paces  long, 
stretched  over  a  chasm  of  fearful  depth  at  one  side,  but  only 
twenty  feet  at  the  other.  I  stepped  down  on  the  bridge  by 
rude  steps  or  notches  cut  in  the  rock,  and,  crossing  over,  as 
cended  the  farther  peak  by  many  more.  This,  then,  is  the  high 
est  point  of  the  Corcovado.  The  area  is  smaller  than  the  first 
one  affords,  but  here  is  uneven  standing-ground  25  feet  by  15. 
In  the  centre  a  hole  is  sunk,  12  inches  deep  by  7  inches,  and 
full  of  water,  probably  for  a  flag-staff.  For  the  statue  of  a  South 
American  Washington  or  Franklin,  this  is  the  spot.  The  black 
and  white  mosaic  pavement  is  here  repeated,  a  specimen  of 
which  I  took.  At  the  extreme  end,  and  beyond  the  rails,  eight 
rocky  steps  descend  to  a  little  grassy  plot  at  the  very  verge  of 
the  most  precipitous  part  of  the  mount.  Fatigued,  I  was  glad 
to  descend  and  lie  down  while  viewing  a  scene  more  sublime 
than  any  I  had  beheld  on  shore — one  such  as  eagles  see  when 
soaring. 

I  had  not  a  very  distinct  idea  of  the  jutting  coast  inside  and 
out  of  the  harbor's  mouth,  but  now  every  line  is  defined  and 
every  object  depicted  on  a  superbly-tinted  map.  The  wide- 
spreading  ocean  appears  slate-colored  till  it  reaches  the  tortuous 
and  shallow  shores,  and  there  it  every  where  presents  a  vivid 
border  of  light  green,  fringed  with  a  frill  of  surf  white  as  driven 
snow.  This  raised  edging,  too,  is  pleasantly  relieved  by  a  rim 
of  yellow  sand.  The  Sugar-loaf,  no  longer  leaning,  is  now  bolt 
upright,  more  like  its  namesake  than  ever.  That  brown  patch 


424  SKETCHES    OF 

down  yonder  is  the  city.  It  might  be  taken  for  an  abandoned 
brick-yard.  Near  it  a  few  dots  denote  the  shipping.  How 
minute  the  Bay  and  villa  of  Boto-Fogo — the  Cattete,  Gloria, 
and  Luzia  Strands — the  pretty  Larangeiras  dales  and  white  cha- 
caras !  All  things  visible  conspire  to  please  one.  Earth,  sea, 
and  sky  enrich  the  landscape  with  their  varied  hues.  That 
bright  streak  of  red  winding  through  the  verdant  grounds  is  a 
turnpike.  Yon  distant  mountains  are  draped  in  blue ;  those 
nearer  are  all  but  black ;  while  close  by,  Mount  Martha  and 
her  sisters  shine  in  emerald  robes,  decked  with  spangles  from 
silver  trees  and  flowers  of  Lent  and  allelulias. 

The  elevation*  is  quite  moderate  compared  with  many  peaks, 
but  the  surface  of  the  earth  and  sea  immediately  below  are  so 
visible  through  the  transparent  air  that  nothing  is  lost  by  inter 
vening  objects,  and  the  full  impression  due  to  the  height  is  felt. 

As  I  sat  and  silent  gazed,  swallows  came  fluttering  up,  then 
twittering  and  twirling,  floated  down  the  enchanted  valleys.  Al 
most  lost  in  ecstasy,  I  soared  and  dove  in  fancy  with  them,  till 
a  butterfly  aroused  me,  wThen  I  rose  and  made  one  step  to  swing 
my  hat  over  it,  forgetting  the  contracted  spot  on  which  I  was. 
Heaven  only  knows  my  feeling  as  I  awoke  to  the  danger.  In 
stinctively  leaning  backward,  I  crept  to  the  steps,  and  some  mo 
ments  transpired  before  I  felt  sufficiently  composed  to  mount 
them  and  get  within  the  railing. 

My  stick  was  missing,  and  as  it  was  folly  to  attempt  a  de 
scent  without  one — not  to  facilitate,  but  to  retard  progress,  for 
when  one's  momentum  gets  beyond  control,  and  that  a  few  un 
wary  steps  bring  about,  there  is  no  stopping  until  brought  up 
by  a  rock  or  tree,  or  by  a  fall  that  would  most  likely  end  one's 
earthly  journey  ings — I  got  an  apology  for  a  staff  from  a  large 
shrub,  and  descended,  slowly  as  a  hermit,  to  a  decayed  trunk 
lying  across  the  road.  Here  we  had  rested  on  coming  up,  and 
here  my  companion  had  left  my  stick.  In  half  an  hour  I  joined 
him  at  the  Paineiras,  and  there  took  leave  of  the  Corcovado. 
Bathing  my  hands  and  face  in  the  conduit  basin,  I  sucked  an 

*  There  are  discrepancies  in  the  measurements.  Beechey,  in  his  "  Voyage  to 
the  Pacific  and  Behring's  Straits,"  made  the  peak  of  the  Corcovado,  in  1825,  by 
barometer,  2308  feet  above  half  tide  ;  by  trigonometrical  measurement,  2306  feet ; 
in  1828,  by  barometer,  229  H  feet;  by  trigonometrical  measurement,  2305  feet. 
I  am  indebted  to  the  politeness  of  Commodore  Wilkes,  who  makes  it  2332  feet. 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  425 

orange  and  ate  a  slice  of  bread  and  butter  with  a  relish  that  ep 
icures  never  knew,  seasoned  as  it  was  with  the  mustard  of  St. 
Bernard. 

I  was  desirous,  before  leaving,  of  following  the  Paineiras  trib 
utary  to  its  source.  From  this  place  it  flows  to  the  Mother  of 
Waters  through  a  string  of  tiles  laid  mostly  on  the  ground,  but 
comes  in  here  in  a  more  imposing  manner.  As  we  had  no  time 
to  spare,  we  lost  none  by  delay,  and  soon  were  walking  along  a 
thick  low  wall,  in  which  a  bright  red  groove  of  tile  was  imbed 
ded,  contrasting  agreeably  with  the  green  velvet  path,  encircling 
forests,  and  white  stucco  of  the  wall.  This  was  the  conduit  : 

built  of  rough  stone,  three  feet 
four  inches  high,  and  three  feet 
nine  inches  wide.  To  save  ma 
terial,  the  lower  half  consists  of 
a  succession  of  flattened  arch 
es,  three  and  a  half  feet  span. 
with  an  equal  extent  of  solid 
work  between  every  two  ad- 

SECTION   OF   THE   PAINEIRAS   FEEDER.  r  Jg    fl^ 


and  finished  at  the  side  with  a  projecting  cornice  of  plaster. 
The  tiles  are  sunk  flush  with  it,  and  form  a  clean  and  lively 
feature  of  the  work.  They  are  nine  and  a  half  inches  deep,  and 
twelve  inches  across  their  upper  edges. 

This  pretty  channel,  on  its  snow-white  bed,  stretches  away 
in  the  direction  of  the  ocean,  suspended  on  the  precipitous  faces 
of  the  Paineiras  Mountains.  Immense  labor  has  been  expended 
on  it.  We  were  careful  to  keep  near  it  at  the  right,  where  the 
rocky  forest  shoots  upward,  to  avoid  slipping  into  the  gulfs  at 
the  left.  At  first  the  path  led  us  past  coffee-trees  laden  with 
their  scarlet  clusters,  and  after  leaving  a  few  bananas  and  pic 
turesque  mamaos  behind,  we  came  to  a  terrible-looking  preci 
pice,  where  a  wall  sufficient  to  support  the  conduit  and  a  safe 
path  has  been  artificially  raised.  Here  the  silence  was  sud 
denly  broken  by  parrots  chattering  down  below.  We  next 
came  to  where  the  face  of  the  mountain  had  been  removed  by 
blasting  —  a  great  undertaking  to  carry  so  small  a  trough  along 
the  all  but  perpendicular  sides  of  these  everlasting  hills. 

Next  the  trees  shut  out  the  sun,  and  the  conduit  is  overgrown 


426  SKETCHES   OF 

with  moss.  Much  of  the  plaster  has  disappeared,  and  plants 
are  springing  from  every  part  of  the  wall.  Leaves  are  in  the 
channel ;  insects,  snakes,  and  other  things,  one  would  suppose, 
must  occasionally  be  found  in  it  too.  The  path  is  now  delight 
ful,  and  the  prospect  grand  indeed.  We  next  came  to  a  small 
feeder.  The  fluid  falls  down  from  above,  and,  collecting  behind 
a  short  wall,  joins  the  main  channel,  as  usual,  through  a  tile. 
Hocks  and  trees  here  rise  to  heaven,  and,  within  a  few  feet, 
sink  to  dark  and  impenetrable  gulfs. 

The  Botanic  Garden  is  somewhere  beneath  us,  and  the  white 
surf  rolling  on  the  ocean  shore  is  visible.  We  pass  on,  and  the 
scene  becomes,  if  possible,  more  romantic;  the  damp  has 
caused  every  particle  of  plaster  to  drop  off;  the  surplus  water  is 
pouring  down  the  precipice  at  several  points.  Continuing,  we 
come  to  the  end  of  the  tile  channel  and  masonry — to  wooden 
gutters,  propped  at  irregular  distances  on  rude  piles  of  loose 
stones — box  gutters  nine  inches  deep  and  wide.  The  depth  of 
water  in  them  is  three  inches,  and  passing  rapidly.  Trees  are 
growing  two  hundred  feet  above  our  heads.  Things  look  wild 
er  than  ever,  and  verily  they  are  so.  We  are  no  longer  on  the 
ground,  but  creeping  on  long  rows  of  planks,  that  rest  on  iron 
rods  let  into  and  projecting  from  the  face  of  the  rock.  Each 
rod  is  turned  up  an  inch  or  two  at  its  outer  end,  to  keep  the 
gutter  from  being  pushed  off.  Between  the  gutter  and  the  rock 
there  is  just  room  to  pass.  This  is  the  most  ticklish  situation 
I  was  ever  in. 

I  took  one  glimpse  below,  and  that  nearly  upset  me.  After 
passing  it,  I  asked  how  deep  the  fall  was.  "  God  only  knows," 
was  the  reply.  Stepping  once  more  on  rugged  and  uneven 
paths  cut  in  the  face  of  the  mountain,  the  wooden  channel  kept 
us  company,  now  at  our  feet,  and  now  propped  up  four  feet  high. 
At  length  we  came  to  a  stretch  of  tiles  again,  where  a  side  trib 
utary  came  in ;  and  not  far  off  we  were  finally  brought  up  at  a 
place  where,  the  channel  ascending  a  steep,  we  could  not  mount, 
even  if  the  dense  forest  had  left  an  opening.  A  large  tree  marks 
the  spot  where  the  tile  channel  again  ends,  and  the  wooden  gut 
ter,  shooting  upward,  left  us  to  conjecture  what  jungle-scenes  it 
passes  through.  We  were  now  two  miles,  or  perhaps  more,  from 
the  Paineiras.  Plunging  our  mouths  into  the  tile  channel,  we 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  427 

drank  and  hastened  back,  fearful  we  should  not  get  down  the 
mountains  before  dark.  Reaching  the  Paineiras,  we  found  a 
slight  refreshment  prepared  by  our  peon  from  the  relics  of  his 
larder.  While  partaking  of  it  he  brought  out  our  steeds,  which 
we  mounted,  and,  winding  our  way  past  the  Mother  of  Waters, 
reached  home  by  lamplight. 

I  subsequently  devoted  several  days  to  the  aqueduct.  Pro 
vided  with  instruments,  assistants,  and  an  order  from  Colonel 
Frias,  the  distinguished  superintendent  of  the  Public  Works, 
opening  every  part  to  inspection,  we  measured  the  length  of  ev 
ery  stretch  between  the  Mai  de  Agua  to  Tereza  Hill.  They 
were  two  hundred  and  fourteen  in  number,  all  in  right  lines, 
and  joined  by  angles  more  or  less  obtuse,  seldom  acute.  Most 
of  them  were  under  a  hundred  feet  long,  and  some  did  not  ex 
ceed  thirty.  The  fall  of  each  was  taken  with  a  fifteen-foot  pole 
or  straight-edge,  and  a  spirit  level.  In  none  was  the  descent 
less  than  four  inches  in  fifteen  feet,  often  two  feet ;  in  one,  four 
feet  and  a  half,  and  in  another  five  feet,  or  one  in  three !  We 
made  the  length  from  the  Mother  of  Waters  to  Tereza  Hill 
18,128  feet,  with  a  fall  of  520  feet.  From  Tereza  Hill  down 
to  the  caixa  near  the  arches — figured  on  page  411 — the  lengths 
of  channel  amount  to  1290  feet,  with  a  fall  approaching  to  one 
in  five,  or  230  feet. 

A  section  of  the  top  of  the  long  range  of  arches  will  be  ac 
ceptable  to  professional  readers. 

c,  <?,  parapet  walls, 
from  outside  to  outside 
of  which  is  nine  feet. 
The  water-channel  is 
partly  cut  in  granite, 
but  mostly  of  tiles  nine 
inches  across,  the  same 
in  depth,  and  two  feet 
long.  A  small  stuccoed 
wall,  d,  d,  six  inches  high,  runs  along  each  side  of  the  channel 
to  prevent  its  overflowing,  and  upon  them  loose  boards  (e)  rest. 
As  there  is  no  frost  here,  the  stucco  work,  which  never  hardens 
much,  lasts  many  years.  A  pathway,  twenty-seven  inches  wide, 
and  coated  with  stucco,  is  left  on  each  side  of  the  channel.  The 


428  SKETCHES   OF 

whole  length  of  this  stretch  of  archway  is  833  feet ;  the  fall  of 
the  channel  five  feet.  At  sixty  feet  from  the  Tereza  side  the 
work  turns  at  a  slight  angle ;  at  300  feet  it  passes  over  Mata 
Cavallos  and  Arcos  Street,  where  the  elevation  is  sixty  feet 
above  the  pavement.  After  passing  Arcos  Street,  it  goes  over 
private  yards  and  gardens  to  Antonio  Hill,  where  it  enters  an 
other  vaulted  passage  about  sixteen  feet  above  the  ground.  I 
counted  forty  arches,  and  I  think  there  are  two  more  under  the 
last-named  covered  passage.  The  fall,  when  the  channel  begins 
to  wind  round  Antonio  Hill,  is  one  and  a  half  inches  in  fifteen 
feet. 

It  will  have  been  observed  that  the  Mai  de  Agua  is  simply  a 
caixa,  or  receiving  basin,  into  which  the  tributaries  bring  their 
portions.  The  Office  of  Public  Works  has  no  account  of  the 
inclination  of  any  part  of  the  work,  but  the  length  of  artificial 
conduit  is  recorded  thus : 

From  the  Hill  Tereza  to  Mai  de  Agua 2589  Brazilian  bracas. 

"        Silvestre  Stream  to  do.  321         "  " 

"        Paineiras     do.,  not  known  (at  least).  ...    1000         "  " 

"        Lagoinha  Feeder 633         "  " 

Thus  the  length  of  channel  from  Mai  de  Agua  to  Antonio  Hill=20,30o  feet ;  fall, 
749  feet ;  length  of  feeders,  as  far  as  known 14,166     " 


Making  the  entire  length  of  the  Carioco  Aqueduct 34,471  feet,  with 

a  fall  of  about  1000  feet. 

The  last  day  spent  over  the  aqueduct  I  was  alone,  and  of 
sketches  then  taken  was  one  which,  more  than  any  other,  is 
calculated  to  impart  to  the  reader  a  correct  idea  of  it.  A  copy 
is  subjoined.  It  shows  how  erratic  is  the  course  of  this  famous 
conduit  in  limited  spaces ;  how  it  is  seen  coming  down  a  steep 
eminence  into  a  caixa,  and  running  zigzag  from  it  at  ever-va 
rying  descents  and  directions.  Over  the  grated  door  of  the 
caixa  is  a  marble  tablet,  with  the  inscription  "  Por  Ordem  do 
Principe  Kege  No  Sr  Foi  Reparada  Esta  Obra  em  1814."  The 
entire  landscape,  except  this  building,  is  a  wild  mountain  forest. 

Twilight  began  while  I  was  some  miles  in  the  woods,  and  a 
sensation  of  fear  crept  over  me  from  recollections  of  stories  of 
runaway  slaves  robbing  stray  wanderers  after  nightfall.  Hav 
ing  no  stick,  I  stepped  aside  at  an  angle  of  the  path,  and  cut 
one  from  a  paineira-tree.  While  removing  the  spines  with  a 
knife,  a  tall  negro  with  an  ominous-looking  staff  burst  suddenly 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL. 


429 


CARIOCO   AQUEDUCT. 


on  me.  He  stood,  gazed,  passed  on,  and  anon  returned  with 
club  upraised.  I  tried  to  look  bold,  and  asked  what  he  wanted. 
He  understood  not  the  words,  but  comprehended  my  wants. 
Seeing  I  had  got  a  poor  branch — one  not  worth  dressing,  and 
whose  prickles  had  drawn  blood  from  my  fingers — with  a  smile 
he  drew  near  and  offered  me  his.  I  hesitated,  when  he  gently 
put  it  in  my  hand  and  went  on  his  way.  Ashamed  of  my  sus 
picions,  I  called  after  him,  and  with  difficulty  got  the  kind- 
hearted  man  to  accept  a  slight  acknowledgment  of  his  good 
will.  It  was  dark  when  I  arrived  in  the  artificial  world  below. 
The  interest  excited  by  the  Carioco  Aqueduct  is  augmented 
by  its  simple  construction ;  its  erratic  and  fitful  courses  ;  the 
wild,  dark,  and  often  awful  scenery  through  which  it  passes  ; 
the  elevations  at  which  it  receives  the  fluid,  and  the  extent  to 
which  it  meets  the  wishes  of  the  people  for  "  beaten"  or  agi 
tated  water,  by  causing  it  to  leap  and  dance,  to  run,  and  boil, 
and  sparkle  in  its  passage  down.  Besides  some  others,  it  sup 
plies  four  fountains  in  the  oldest  part  of  the  city,  viz.,  the  Cari- 


430  SKETCHES    OF 

oco,  Marecas,  Moura,  and  the  one  in  Palace  Square.  To  the 
first  it  gives  (according  to  the  account  in  the  Office  of  Public 
Works)  37,420  barils  in  twenty-four  hours ;  to  the  second,  1800 
do. ;  to  the  third,  600  do.  ;  and  to  the  last,  6840.  The  baril 
is  estimated  at  seven  gallons. 

Nature  supplies  this  necessary  of  life  in  abundance,  and 
would,  if  permitted,  deliver  it  freely  at  the  door  of  every  dwell 
ing,  and  raise  it  into  every  garret.  In  place  of  accepting  her 
offer,  it  is  drawn  down  in  open  gutters  to  the  lowest  streets, 
and  thence  borne  upward,  day  and  night,  to  the  highest,  by 
thousands  of  slaves,  at  an  annual  cost  little  exceeding  that  at 
which  an  ever-present  stream  in  every  house  might  be  perma 
nently  attained.  No  city  on  earth  is  more  favored  in  this  re 
spect  than  Kio. 

There  are  no  reservoirs  in  case  of  drought  or  damage  to  the 
works,  so  that  when  the  supply  is  interrupted  in  the  mountain? 
it  ceases  in  the  city. 


CHAPTER  XXXVIII. 

Population   of  Brazil. — Diseases  — National  Income. — Police. — Literature. — Li 
brary. — Newspapers. — Character  of  Brazilians. — Slaves. — Voyage  Home. 

BRAZIL  is  poor  in  population,  and  must  be  till  she  adopt  a 
comprehensive  and  liberal  system  of  immigration ;  but  this  is 
dreaded  on  account  of  the  leveling  spirit  of  the  age,  and  a  fear 
that  both  the  Church  and  the  throne  would  be  endangered.  No 
subject  is  more  involved  in  uncertainty  than  the  census.  Offi 
cial  accounts,  it  is  alleged,  are  often  based  on  imperfect  data, 
and  not  seldom  on  mere  assumptions.  As  respects  certain  por 
tions  of  the  inhabitants,  it  is  considered  discreet  in  the  author 
ities  to  say  little ;  thus  no  reliable  comparison  of  the  numbers 
of  whites  and  free  colored  are  given,  on  account  of  the  alleged 
overwhelming  proportion  of  the  latter.  In  the  maritime  cities 
and  provinces  the  mixture  of  blood  is  obvious,  but  in  the  inte 
rior,  the  preponderance  of  color  is  awful  (I  use  the  words  of  a 
native).  In  the  city  of  Tejuco,  the  most  thriving  one  in  Minas' 
and  of  the  interior  of  Brazil,  are  only  five  pure  white  families 
among  twelve  thousand  inhabitants. 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL. 


431 


I  am  indebted  to  a  senator  for  a  copy  of  a  report  made'  to  the 
Chamber,  July  21,  1847.  It  appears  to  be  simply  a  reprint  of 
a  report  by  the  Councilor  Velloso  in  1819,  entitled  "  THE 
CHURCH  OF  BRAZIL,  or  Information  to  serve  as  a  Basis  for  Di 
viding  the  Empire  into  Bishoprics,"  etc.  He  estimates,  from 
isolated  computations  of  previous  years,  the  total  da  povoa9ao 
Brazilense  in  1819  at  4,396,231,*  including  800,000  wild  In 
dians,  their  conjectural  number. 

The  Diario  of  December  11,  1847,  contains  an  interesting- 
article  on  the  Political  Geography  of  Brazil,  by  Senhor  de  Sousa, 
a  native  statician.  I  subjoin  a  few  particulars. 

"  In  1766  (fie  population  was 1,500,000 

1798   _  -.-rrrrrr'T. 3,000,000 

1815  (1819  ?)  according  to  Velloso 4,396,000 

1845  (assumed  to  be) 7,360,000.' 

In  the  ten  northern  provinces  he  estimates  3,480,000,  being 
29  persons  to  a  square  league.  To  the  principal  city,  Bahia. 
he  awards  150,000. 

It  is  agreed,  he  observes,  that  the  five  southern  provinces 
contain  2,530,000,  being  84  to  each  square  league.  Eio  de 
Janeiro,  the  chief  city,  he  says,  contains  250,000.  (In  1807 
its  population  was  50,000.) 


Populate  aproximada  das 
provincias. 

Em  1815. 

Em  1845. 

Paris 

173  000 

260  000 

Maranhao  

Piauhy 

200,000 
61  000 

280^000 
150  000 

Ceara  

210,000 

350  000 

Rio  Grande  do  Norte.  . 
Parahiba  

71,000 
96,000 

160,000 
240  000 

Pernambuco  
Alagoas  
Sertnpe  . 

369.000 
112,000 
115,000 

800.000 
200^000 
140,000 

Bahia  .  . 

478,000 

900  000 

Espirito  Santo  
Rio  de  Janeirot  
S.  Paulo  

73,000 
510,000 
321,000 

60,000 
1,400,000 
800,000 

Santa  Catharina  
Rio  Grande  
Minas  Geraes  
Goyaz  .... 

44,000 
79,000 
622,000 
33,000 

80,000 
190,000 
1,130,000 
120,000 

Matto  Grosso  
Indios  nao  domestic  .  .  . 

38,000 
800,000 

100,000 

Total  da  povoagao  .  . 

4,396,000 

7,360,000 

*  This  number  is  said,  on  what  authority  I  know  not,  to  be  less  than  that  of  the 
aborigines  at  the  period  of  the  conquest. 

t  "It  is  very  difficult  to  arrive  at  a  correct  knowledge  of  the  population  of 


432  SKETCHES   OF 

To  the  three  central  provinces  SOusa  assigns  1,350,000,  be 
ing  14  to  each  league.  The  most  considerable  town,  Ouro-Preto 
(Black  Gold),  the  capital  of  Minas  Geraes,  has  20,000  inhab 
itants. 

As  nothing  like  positive  data  was  within  this  writer's  reach, 
the  above,  it  will  be  perceived,  is  given  merely  as  an  approx 
imation.  Had  the  untamed  Indians  been  carried  over  to  the 
latter  column  of  the  preceding  table,  the  number  would  have 
been  swelled  to  over  eight  millions.  Of  subdivisions  he  makes 


2,160,000  Whites. 
1,100,000  Free  Colored. 


3,120,000  Negro  Slaves. 
180,000  Free  Blacks. 


800,000  Domesticated  Indians. 

He  here  introduces  the  same  number  of  tamed  Indians  as 
wild  ones  were  counted  by  Velloso.  From  reliable  sources  of 
information,  I  should  say  the  figures  opposite  the  whites  and 
free  colored  should  be  transposed.  The  number  of  inhabitants 
he  assigns  to  Rio  appears  to  me  too  high,  and  it  would  still 
appear  so  had  he  included  the  army  in  it. 
;  Diseases. -^-Th&  worsj  forms  of  rheumatism  occur  in  Rio — of 
persons  utterly  deprived  of  the  use  of  their  limbs.  One  lady 
of  my  acquaintance  has  lain  for  years  in  that  condition.  Per 
sons  living  on  ground  floors,  in  low  situations,  one  would  think 
could  hardly  escape.  The  air  is  so  excessively  moist,  almost 
all  the  streets  low  and  flooded  during  the  rainy  season,  while 
the  soil  is  saturated  with  water,  which,  on  digging  two  or  three 
feet,  every  where  oozes  up. 

But  that  which  most  startles  a  stranger  is  the  hydrocelc 
and  some  kindred  affections.  At  first  he  will  be  inclined  to 
think  every  third  or  fourth  man  he  meets  is  ruptured.  Many 
are  so,  especially  among  the  blacks,  but  the  cause  of  the  en 
largement  is  generally  dropsy  of  the  parts — a  complaint  that  is 
universal,  and  worse  in  Bahia  than  in  Rio.  It  is  not  confined 
to  adults :  boys  are  afflicted  by  it.  Young  men  from  Europe 
seldom  escape  over  a  year  or  two.  It  is  so  common  as  to  be 

Brazil.     According  to  the  Political  Annual  of  1846  and  correct  information,  the 
province  of  Rio  de  Janeiro  contains  a  million  of  slaves.     Before  consulting  that 
work,  I  had  supposed  the  whole  population  of  the  province  was  nine  hundred  thou 
sand.  F.  NUNES  DE  SOUSA." 
Nothing  can  be  more  expressive  of  uncertainty  than  this  note. 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  433 

little  thought  of  by  those  troubled  with  it.  Comparatively  few 
undergo  what  is  termed  the  radical  cure,  but  have  the  water 
drawn  off  every  few  months. 

Examples  of  what  is  named  elephantiasis  of  the  parts — ex 
crescent  accumulations  within  the  scrotum — are  somewhat  com 
mon.  Successful  removals  of  these  by  the  knife  frequently 
occur  in  the  Mizericordia.  In  a  recent  case  a  mass  weighing 
thirty  pounds  was  removed.  There  is  a  poor  fellow,  a  Western 
Islander,  seen  about  the  streets,  in  whom  the  tumor  reaches 
nearly  to  his  ankles.  Another  man,  about  forty  years  of  age, 
is  unable  to  go  on  his  feet,  but  is  drawn  on  a  four-wheeled 
truck  by  a  negro. 

Some  ascribe  these  maladies  to  the  water  drunk:  the  Pau- 
listas  attribute  the  bronchocele  among  them  to  the  same  cause  ; 
but  there  is  no  doubt  among  the  most  enlightened  physicians 
that  the  hydrocele  is  wholly  due  to  the  combined  influence  of 
the  heat  and  moisture  of  the  climate.  These  so  relax  the  sys 
tem  that  it  becomes  essential  for  young  and  old  to  wear  band 
ages. 

Girls,  from  diseases  peculiar  to  them,  eat  earth,  chalk,  wax. 
and  even  the  red  crockery-ware  or  water-pots,  breaking  off 
portions  and  nibbling  it.  This  appears  more  common  than  in 
temperate  zones.  The  passion  for  these  things  is  often  so  ,\  ;  ! 
strong,  and  so  secretly  gratified,  that  the  victims  often  die  be 
fore  their  friends  are  aware  of  the  cause.  Some  are  saved  by 
the  timely  application  of  masks.  Negro  girls  are  equally  sub 
ject  to  this  disease. 

The  first  examples  of  goitre  I  ever  saw  met  me  here — white 
women  with  monstrous  swellings  in  front  of  their  necks.  The 
complaint  does  not  appear  extensively  prevalent,  but  in  the  ad 
joining  province  of  St.  Paul's  the  greater  part  of  the  population 
is  said  to  be  subject  to  it. 

The  Diario  of  May  6th,  1846,  gives  the  number  of  deaths  in 
Rio  for  one  year  preceding,  viz.,  4498.  Of  these  there  were, 

White  males  . .  .1839         Black  males  .  .  .1020 


females .  .  997 


females .  .  642 


The  largest  number  of  deaths  occurred  in  December,  and  the 
least  in  March.  Six  hundred  and  sixty-seven  died  of  jtuber- 
culosis  pulmonalis.  Seven  hundred  and  ninety-five  perished 

EE 


434  SKETCHES   OF 

under  the  age  of  one  year ;  twenty-eight  had  seen  eighty-one 
years,  and  twelve  nearly  ninety ;  one  had  reached  his  hundred 
and  eighth  year,  and  three  departed  in  their  hundred  and  four 
teenth.  Very  nearly  two  fifths  of  the  whole  expired  in  public 
institutions :  one  thousand  and  sixty-two  in  the  Mizericordia ; 
seventeen  in  the  Lazaretto ;  one  hundred  and  sixty-one  in  the 
Marine  Hospital,  and  one  hundred  and  one  in  the  Military  Hos 
pital  ;  thirty  eight  in  the  House  of  Correction ;  three  hundred 
and  forty-five  in  the  House  of  .Exposed  Infants ;  five  in  the 
City  Prison;  and  fifty-one  bodies  "found  drowned."  Nineteen 
died  in  religious  convents. 

From  this  account  of  Death's  doings,  the  population  of  Rio 
may,  to  a  certain  extent,  be  inferred.  That  the  climate  is  fa 
vorable  to  prolonged  life  is  evident  from  the  foregoing  facts. 

The  national  income  is  stated  at  nearly  thirteen  millions  of 
dollars,  and  the  expenses  at  fourteen  and  a  quarter  millions. 
Last  year  (1845)  the  deficit  was  about  four  millions.  The  em 
peror's  salary  is  four  hundred  thousand  dollars ;  the  empress 
receives  forty-eight  thousand ;  the  emperor's  sister,  Joinville's 
wife,  has  a  pension  of  fifty  one  thousand  dollars  per  annum, 
and  the  emperor's  mother-in-law  twenty-five  thousand ;  the  in 
fant  prince,  six  thousand ;  Amelia,  a  half-sister,  three  thousand, 
etc.  Such  is  the  provision  for  the  bodies  of  the  imperial  fam 
ily,  while  for  their  souls  forty-five  thousand  four  hundred  and 
thirty-eight  dollars  are  expended  annually  on  the  little  Impe 
rial  Chapel  alone.  There  are  forty-eight  public  schools  in  the 
Mumcipio  da  Corte,  thirty-one  for  girls  and  seventeen  for  boys, 
which  are  sustained  at  a  cost  of  eighteen  thousand  four  hund 
red  and  sixty  dollars.  In  last  year's  budget  the  amount  was 
nineteen  thousand  two  hundred  dollars. 

The  police  of  Rio  is  military.  The  men,  enlisted  for  some 
years,  are  drilled  and  commanded  by  army  officers.  They  are 
mostly  colored.  They  are  considered  expert,  and  so,  indeed, 
are  the  thieves.  A  rich  old  lady  at  Boto-Fogo  was  often  visit 
ed  by  the  old  king  and  his  family.  One  evening  a  number  of 
carriages  drove  up,  with  attendants  in  regal  livery.  The  party 
entered,  seized  and  secured  the  lady  and  servants,  rifled  the 
house,  and  departed.  Two  of  them,  in  livery,  stood  at  the  door 
the  whole  time,  as  if  in  attendance  on  their  masters.  Last 


LIFE    IN  BRAZIL.  435 

year,  on  the  eve  of  St.  Anthony,  a  gang  entered  a  house,  and 
while  some  plundered  it,  others  stood  on  the  balcony  firing  off 
rockets,  like  the  neighbors,  in  honor  of  the  saint. 

There  are  few  capital  punishments  in  Kio.  Several  years 
have  elapsed  since  a  white  person  was  executed. 

It  is  said  there  is  little  demand  for  native  literature,  and  less 
encouragement  to  meet  that  little.  The  jl 


a  very  interesting  miscellany,  has,  after  a  feeble  existence  of 
two  years,  recently  expired. 

I  was  shown  seven  beautiful  colored  lithographs  of  native 
birds,  the  first  of  a  contemplated  series  by  a  Brazilian  Audubon. 
I  regret  that  his  name  has  escaped  me.  Rich  in  enthusiasm, 
but  poor  in  pecuniary  means,  he  no  sooner  realizes  a  few  mil- 
reis  than  he  starts  for  the  woods,  studies  the  habits  and  atti 
tudes  of  each  living  subject,  draws  it,  shoots  it,  and  returns  to 
transfer  his  figures  to  stone.  He  has  not  subscribers  enough  to 
meet  his  very  moderate  wants. 

The  public  library  contains  about  eighty  thousand  volumes, 
and  occupies  a  building  formerly  belonging  to  the  Carmelites. 
As  these  friars,  in  the  contest  for  independence,  adhered  to  Portu 
gal,  the  premises  were  seized  for  public  purposes,  Pedro  at  that 
time  being  strongly  disposed  to  rid  the  country  of  every  monk 
in  it.  The  library  is  an  honor  to  the  city.  Every  person  in 
decent  attire,  white  or  colored,  has  free  access  ;  and  if  he  wishes 
to  make  extracts,  pens,  ink,  and  paper  are  furnished.  I  seldom 
found  more  than  half  a  dozen  visitors,  and  the  majority  were 
young  men  of  color  —  a  fact  corroborative  of  what  I  had  repeat 
edly  heard  of  the  ambitious  character  of  this  part  of  the  popu 
lation. 

Rio  has  four  daily  (morning)  papers.  The  Diario  is  the  old 
est  one  in  Brazil,  being  in  its  twenty-fifth  year.  It  is  a  sheet 
twenty-six  inches  by  eighteen,  and  has  an  extensive  patronage. 
Devoted  chiefly  to  domestic  affairs,  its  notices  of  Church  and 
other  matters  are  interesting  to  inquiring  strangers.  To  city 
subscribers  twelve,  and  to  country  do.  sixteen  milreis  per  annum. 

The  Sentinel  .of  Monarchy,  of  limited  circulation. 

The  Jornal-dQ,Commercio,  the  largest  sheet,  has  the  widest 
circulation.  It  is  twenty-nine  by  twenty-two  inches,  in  its 
twenty-first  year,  ably  edited  by  its  French  proprietor,  and 


436  SKETCHES    OF 

justly  considered  the  best  conducted  and  chief  commercial  pa 
per  in  the  country.  It  is  the  organ  of  the  government,  and 
published  every  morning  except  on  holy  days,  a  term  which 
does  not  include  Sundays.  To  its  city  patrons  the  charge  is 
twenty  milreis,  and  when  sent  into  the  provinces  twenty-four  do. 
O  Mercantile  of  the  same  dimensions,  is  put  at  a  lower  price, 
sixteen  milreis.  It  is  eleven  years  old,  and  is  pushing  its  claims 
to  official  patronage  on  the  ground  of  being  entirely  a  native 
sheet. 

The  character  of  the  Brazilians,  I  should  say,  is  that  of  a  hos 
pitable,  affectionate,  intelligent,  and  aspiring  people.  They  are 
in  advance  of  their  Portuguese  progenitors  in  liberality  of  senti 
ment  and  in  enterprise.  Many  of  their  young  men  visit  Europe, 
others  are  educated  in  the  United  States ;  add  to  this  an  in 
creasing  intercourse  with  foreigners — the  means  ordained  by 
Divine  Providence  for  human  improvement — and  who  does  not 
rejoice  in  their  honorable  ambition,  and  in  the  career  opened 
before  them?  It  must  be  remembered,  however,  that  no  one 
people  can  be  a  standard  for  any  other,  for  no  two  are  in  the 
same  circumstances  and  conditions.  The  influence  of  climate, 
we  know,  is  omnipotent,  and  from  their  occupying  one  of  the 
largest  and  finest  portions  of  the  equatorial  regions,  it  is  for 
them  to  determine  how  far  science  and  the  arts  within  the  trop 
ics  can  compete  with  their  progress  in  the  temperate  zones.  _As 
respects  progress,  they  are,  of  Latin  nations,  next  to  the  French. 

n  the  Chambers  are  able  and  enlightened  statesmen,  and  the 
representatives  of  the  empire  abroad  are  conceded  to  rank  in 
talent  with  the  embassadors  of  any  other  country.  As  for 
material  elements  of  greatness,  no  people  under  the  sun  are  more 
highly  favored,  and  none  have  a  higher  destiny  opened  before 
them.  May  they  have  the  wisdom  to  achieve  it. 

Among  lithographic  scenes  of  life  in  Rio,  designed  and  pub 
lished  by  native  artists,  those  relating  to  the  slaves  are  not  the 
least  conspicuous.  There  is  no  more  fastidiousness,  that  I  ob 
served,  about  portraying  them  in  shackles  than  in  their  labors 
and  their  pastimes.  The  one  at  the  head  of  the  opposite  page 
represents  common  punishments:  a  negra  in  a  mask,  and  a  ne 
gro  wearing  the  usual  pronged  collar,  with  a  shackle  round  one 
ankle,  and  secured  to  a  chain  suspended  from  his  waist. 


LIFE   IN   BRAZIL. 


437 


It  is  said  slaves  in  masks 
are  not  so  often  encountered 
in  the  streets  as  formerly, 
because  of  a  growing  public 
feeling  against  them.  I  met 
but  three  or  four,  and  in 
each  case  the  sufferer  was  a 
female.  The  mask  is  the  re-  (j  ^ , 
puted  ordinary  punishment 
and  preventative  of  drunk- 
enness.  As  the  baril  is  oft 
en  chained  to  the  slave  that 
bears  it,  to  prevent  him  from 
selling  it  for  rum,  so  the 

mask  is  to  hinder  him  or  her  from  conveying  the  liquor  to  the 
mouth,  below  which  the  metal  is  continued,  and  opposite  to 
which  there  is  no  opening. 

Observing  one  day  masks  hang 
ing  out  for  sale  at  a  tin  and  sheet 
iron  store,  I  stopped  to  examine 
them,  and  subsequently  borrowed 
one,  from  which  the  annexed 
sketch  is  taken.  Except  a  pro 
jecting  piece  for  the  nose,  the  met 
al  is  simply  bent  cylinder-wise.  • 

Minute  holes  are  punched  to  admit  air  to  the  nostrils,  and  simi 
lar  ones  in  front  of  the  eyes.  A  jointed  strap  (of  metal)  on  each 
side  goes  round  below  the  ears  (sometimes  two),  and  meets  one 
that  passes  over  the  crown  of  the  head.  A  staple  unites  and  a 
padlock  secures  them. 

At  most  of  the  smiths'  shops  collars  are  exposed,  as  horse 
shoes  are  with  our  blacksmiths  ;  at  one  shop  in  Eua  das  Violas 
there  was  quite  a  variety,  with  gyves,  chains,  etc.  Most  of  the 
collars  were  of  five-eighths-inch  round  iron,  some  with  one 
prong,  others  with  two,  and  some  with  none  except  a  short  up 
right  tubular  lock. 

Here,  too,  were  the  heaviest  and  crudest  instruments  of  tor 
ture — shackles  for  binding  the  ankles  and  wrists  close  together, 
and  consequently  doubling  the  bodies  of  the  victims  into  the 


438  SKETCHES   OF 

most  painful  and  unnatural  positions.  Had  I  not  seen  them,  I 
could  hardly  have  thought  such  things  were.  While  making  a 
memorandum  of  their  form  and  dimensions,  the  proprietor  or  his 
adjutant,  a  black  man,  in  his  shirt  sleeves,  came  from  the  rear, 
and  handling  them,  spoke  "by  way  of  recommending  them,  sup 
posing  I  was  a  customer.  They  were  made  of  bar  iron,  three 
inches  wide  and  three  eighths  of  an 
inch  thick  !  Each  consisted  of  three 
pieces,  bent,  jointed,  and  fastened,  as 
shown  in  the  margin.  The  large  open 
ings  were  for  the  legs,  the  smaller  for 
the  wrists.  A  screw-bolt  drew  the 
straight  parts  close  together.  One  of 
the  joints  is  shown  above.  The  dis 
tance  from  joint  to  joint  was  two  feet. 

Such  are  the  tortures  which  slaves  privately  endure  in  the 
cellars,  garrets,  and  out-houses  of  their  masters.  T ,  a  na 
tive  merchant,  says  another  common  punishment  is  to  inclose 
the  legs  in  wooden  shackles  or  stocks.  Some  owners  fasten 
their  hands  in  similar  devices,  and  some,  again,  retain  relics  of 
the  old  thumb-screws  to  lock  those  members  together.  In  the 
northern  provinces,  he  says,  the  slaves  are  much  worse  used  than 
in  Rio ;  that  it  is  no  uncommon  thing  to  tie  their  hands  and  feet 
together,  hoist  them  off  the  ground,  and  then  "  beat  them  as 
near  to  death  as  possible."  A  heavy  log  fastened  by  a  chain  to 
the  neck  or  leg  of  a  slave  who  has  absconded,  or  who  is  sup 
posed  to  be  inclined  to  run  away,  is  a  usual  punishment  and 
precaution.  He  is  compelled  to  labor  with  it,  laying  it  on  the 
ground  when  at  work,  and  bearing  it  under  his  arm  or  on  his 
shoulder  when  he  moves. 

I  observed  one  day  a  slave  wearing  a  collar,  the  largest  and 
roughest  of  hundreds  I  have  seen.  It  is 
represented  in  the  margin.  Of  inch  round 
iron,  with  a  hinge  in  the  middle,  made  by 
bending  the  metal  of  its  full  size  into  loops, 
the  open  ends  flattened  and  connected  by  a 
half-inch  rivet.  The  upright  bar  termina 
ted  in  a  deaths  head,  which  reached  above 
that  of  the  wearer,  and  to  it  another  piece, 


LIFE    IN   BRAZIL.  439 

in  the  form  of  the  letter  S,  was  welded.  The  joint  galled  him, 
for  he  kept  gathering  portions  of  his  canvas  shirt  under  it.  Hest 
or  sleep  would  seem  impossible. 

"  A  Bahian  planter,  the  brother  of  an  ex-councilor,  dined  with 
us  one  day,  and  spoke  with  much  freedom  on  slavery.  With 
most  men,  he  thinks  the  land  can  never  be  cultivated  in  the 
northern  provinces  by  whites.  The  city  slaves  of  Bahia,  he 
said,  are  principally  Minas.  Shrewd  and  intelligent,  they  pre 
serve  their  own  language,  and  by  that  means  organize  clubs 
and  mature  schemes  of  revolution  which  their  brethren  of  Per-  Q^ 
nambuco  have  repeatedly  attempted  to  carry  out.  Some  write 
Arabic  fluently,  and  are  vastly  superior  to  most  of  their  mas- 
ters.  In  the  interior,  he  remarked,  the  slaves  are  badly  fed, 
worse  clothed,  and  worked  so  hard  that  the  average  duration  of 
their  lives  does  not  exceed  six  years.  In  some  districts  it  reach 
es  to  eight,  while  the  number  that  see  ten  years  after  leaving 
Africa  is  small  indeed.  Deceptions  are  played  off  on  foreign 
agents  of  the  Slavery  Commissions.  These  visit  the  Engenhos 
once,  or  twice  a  year.  The  planters,  informed  when  they  set 
out,  have  their  slaves  decently  garbed  and  well  oiled,  to  make 
them  look  supple  and  in  good  condition.  On  a  late  visit,  the 
examiners  were  so  highly  gratified  that  one  left,  and  wrote  home 
a  flattering  account  of  the  treatment  of  the  helots.  The  other 
continued  his  inquiries,  came  to  a  fazenda  where  he  was  not 
looked  for,  and  there  beheld  what  he  did  not  expect — a  negro 
about  to  be  boiled  to  death  for  some  act  of  insubordination. 
His  owner  had  invited,  according  to  custom  in  such  cases, 
neighboring  proprietors  to  witness  the  tragedy. 

From  the  little  I  have  seen,  I  should  suppose  the  country 
slaves  are  the  worst  off.  Every  morning,  while  nature  was  en 
shrouded  in  blackness  of  darkness,  did  I  hear  them  driving- 
wagons  through  the  thick  mist,  and  as  late  as  ten  at  night  were 
they  shouting  at  the  oxen  as  the  jolting  and  groaning  wheels 
rolled  by.  (This  was,  however,  in  the  busiest  season.)  I  often 
wondered  how  they  found  their  way  over  the  horrid  roads,  how 
their  naked  feet  and  limbs  escaped  unharmed,  and  how  they 
then  worked  in  the  fields,  unless  their  pupils  had  the  expansile 
and  contractile  powers  of  night  animals. 

On  large  estates,  a  few  days'  rest  are  given  them  every  three 


440  SKETCHES   OF 

or  four  weeks  during  the  sugar  season,  but  on  smaller  ones, 
where  owners  commonly  have  difficulty  to  keep  out  of  debt, 
they  fare  badly,  and  are  worked  to  death.  Staggering  into 
their  huts,  or  dropping  where  their  labors  close,  hardly  do  their 
aching  bones  allow  the  Angel  of  Sleep  to  drive  away  the  mem 
ory  of  their  sorrows,  than  two  demons,  lurking  in  the  bell  and 
lash,  awaken  them  to  fresh  tortures.  To  say  these  poor  crea 
tures  are  better  off  than  when  ranging  their  native  15nds  is  an 
assertion  that  language  lacks  the  power  justly  to  describe.  It 
may  be  true,  if  the  life  of  an  omnibus  hack  is  better  than  that 
of  a  wild  horse  of  Texas.  I  would  rather,  a  thousand  times,  be 
a  sheep,  pig,  or  ox,  have  freedom,  food,  and  rest  for  a  season, 
and  then  be  knocked  on  the  head,  than  be  a  serf  on  some  plan 
tations.  I  say  some,  because  there  are  in  Brazil,  as  in  other 
lands,  humane  planters. 

Suicides  continually  occur,  and  owners  wonder.  The  high- 
souled  Minas,  both  men  and  women,  are  given  to  self-destruc 
tion.  Rather  than  endure  life  on  the  terms  it  is  offered,  many 
of  them  end  it.  Then  they  that  bought  them  grind  their  teeth 
and  curse  them,  hurl  imprecations  after  their  flying  spirits,  and 
execrate  the  saints  that  let  them  go.  If  individuals  are  ever 
justified  in  using  the  power  Heaven  has  placed  in  their  hands 
to  terminate  at  once  their  earthly  existence,  it  must  be  these. 
Those  who  blame  them  for  putting  the  only  barrier  between 
them  and  oppression  could  not  endure  half  their  woes.  And 
how  characteristic  of  human  frailties !  Here  are  slave-dealers 
who  weep  over  the  legendary  sufferings  of  a  saint,  and  laugh  at 
worse  tortures  they  themselves  inflict ;  who  shudder  at  the 
names  of  old  persecutors,  and  dream  not  of  the  armies  of  mar 
tyrs  they  make  yearly ;  who  cry  over  Protestants  as  sinners 
doomed  to  perdition,  and  smile  in  anticipation  of  their  own  re 
ception  in  the  realms  above  by  Anthony  and  Loyala,  Benedict 
and  Becket. 

Rich  people  who  lose  a  slave  by  suicide  or  flight  scarcely  feel 
the  loss,  but  to  many  families  the  loss  is  ruinous.  There  are 
not  a  few  that  live  on  the  earnings  of  one  or  two  helots.  The 
papers  are  constantly  noticing  the  flight  of  slaves  who  have 
manumitted  themselves  by  escaping  across  a  river  their  op 
pressors  dare  not  attempt,  since  they  there  become  denizens  of 


LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.  441 

a  country  in  which  Brazilian  process  can  not  be  served.  They 
unsheath  their  spirits,  and  leave  the  scabbards  for  their  mas 
ters. 

It  is  only  suicides  reported  by  the  police  that  become  pub 
licly  known.  Were  all  recorded,  every  issue  of  the  daily  press 
would,  I  am  told,  contain  more  or  less.  Instances  that  have 
occurred  within  the  last  few  weeks  are  here  taken  from  the 
Diario. 

June  22-24.  "  In  the  parish  of  Sta.  Anna,  an  inquest  was 
held  on  the  body  of  the  black,  Justo,  who  killed  himself  by 
hanging.  He  was  the  slave  of  Major  Jose  de  Paiva  e  Silva. 
Also  on  the  body  of  the  slave  Rita,  who  destroyed  herself  by 
drowning.  The  body  of  a  black,  in  a  state  of  putrefaction,  was 
found,  thrown  ashore  by  the  tide,  on  the  beach  near  the  Public- 
Garden." 

July  1.  The  body  of  one  was  found  near  the  Carioco  Fount 
ain  ;  another,  a  female,  in  another  parish,  had  released  her  spirit 
with  a  rope — "  suicidou-se  com  um  bara9c."  July  5.  Another, 
in  a  fit  of  despair,  precipitated  himself  from  an  upper  window 
upon  a  mass  of  granite.  23c7.  The  slave  Luiz  Pharoux  killed 
himself  with  a  rope.  24^A.  The  slaves  Pedro  and  Camillo  by 
strangulation.  August  1.  Another  drowned  himself  on  the 
Praya  Manoel.  On  the  4th,  my  last  day  in  Brazil,  one  was 
lying  on  the  rocks  at  the  city  end  of  the  Gloria  Beach,  washed 
up  by  the  tide.  He  was  apparently  under  thirty  years  of  age. 
As  I  stood  looking  down  on  him,  a  Mozambique  girl  came  along, 
put  her  basket  on  the  low  wall  near  me,  dropped  a  tear  on  the 
corpse,  and  passed  on. 

When  the  means  of  suspension  are  not  at  hand,  it  is  no  un 
usual  thing  for  high-minded  Africans,  of  both  sexes,  to  expire  j 
under  circumstances  surpassing  aught  that  history  records. 
Some  draw  ligatures  tight  round  their  throats,  lie  down,  and  de 
liberately  die.  Others,  I  am  told,  have  the  art  of  folding  back 
their  tongues  so  as  to  prevent  respiration,  and  thus  resolutely 
perish. 

I  dined  one  Sunday  with  a  party  at  the  beautiful  and  hos 
pitable  retreat  of  Messrs.  M and  M4G ,  at  Boto-Fogo. 

Strolling  alone  up  an  adjacent  mount,  I  was  very  much  startled 
by  two  of  the  most  frightful-looking  and  importunate  of  human 


442  SKETCHES   OF 

beings  rushing  suddenly  out  of  the  bushes  in  front  of  me.  Ne 
groes  of  middle  age,  and  wholly  naked,  except  filthy  rags  round 
their  loins,  each  had  an  iron  ring  about  his  neck  connected  by 
an  ox-chain  to  shackles  at  his  ankles.  By  another  chain  one 
hand  of  each  were  locked  together.  They  bent  forward,  kneel 
ed,  held  out  their  arms,  sobbed,  cried,  screamed,  and  made  such 
frightfully  agonizing  supplications,  that  I  have  often  thought 
neither  criminals  condemned  to  die,  nor  even  souls  in  Purgatory, 
could  make  more  moving  appeals.  Poor  fellows !  I  did  not 
make  out  what  they  asked  for — money,  victuals,  or  intercession 
with  their  master,  the  owner  of  the  hill  and  of  a  neighboring 
quarry,  in  which  he  employed  over  two  hundred  slaves.  These 
two  had  attempted  to  escape,  and,  when  not  at  work,  were  or 
dered  to  this  sequestered  spot  and  forbidden  to  leave  it. 

August  5.  After  taking  leave  of  friends,  communion  with 
whom  will  ever  be  among  the  most  precious  of  reminiscences,  I 
went  on  board  the  Mazeppa,  and  bade  farewell  to  one  of  the 
richest  sections  of  the  planet. 

Rumors  of  war  with  Mexico  rendered  a  convoy  desirable,  and 
the  old  Constitution  escorted  us  home.  Besides  our  vessel, 
there  were  five  others,  brigs  and  barks,  bound  for  Baltimore, 
Philadelphia,  and  New  York.  To  each  vessel  the  commodore 
sent  instructions  and  drawings  of  flags  by  which  he  would  com 
municate  with  her.  It  may  interest  landsmen  to  know  how  an 
intelligent  correspondence  is  kept  up  between  vessels  at  great 
distances  apart.  A  red  flag  hoisted  on  board  the  frigate  was  an 
intimation  that  she  was  about  to  communicate  with  our  vessel ; 
a  blue  one  told  us  to  "  wear  ship;"  a  red  one,  with  a  square 
patch  in  the  centre,  to  "  tack  shij}  /"  a  flag  half  blue  and  half 
white,  diagonally  separated,  "close  in  with  the  Constitution ;" 
a  white  flag,  with  a  blue  cross  extending  over  it,  "  come  within 
hail  j"  red  and  blue,  diagonally  divided,  "  heave  to  j"  red  and 
white,  diagonal,  "make  sail ;"  all  white,  "shorten  sail;"  a  flag 
of  four  equal  squares,  two  diagonal  ones  red  and  two  white, 
"  haul  by  the  wind"  etc. 

Our  night-signals  were  guns  and  blue-lights.  If  we  fell  in 
with  a  strange  vessel  in  the  night,  we  were  to  signal  the  frigate 
with  two  of  the  latter. 

At  4  P.M.  the  Constitution  showed  the  jack  at  the  fore  and 


LIFE   IN  BRAZIL.  443 

fired  a  gun — the  signal  for  sailing — and  presently  every  vessel 
was  under  weigh,  following  the  frigate  out. 

Rough  weather  set  in,  and  dispersed  us  as  chaff;  it  contin 
ued,  and  swept  away  our  fowls,  turkeys,  and  boats,  and  five  days 
after  starting,  so  far  from  having  progressed  a  mile  homeward, 
we  were  leagues  south  of  Rio.  On  the  ninth  the  frigate  was 
in  sight,  or,  as  the  sailors  expressed  themselves,  the  old  hen 
and  four  of  her  chickens,  from  her  gathering  the  fleet  about  her. 
I  had  a  sloth,  a  large  lizard,  and  a  paca  on  board.  The  former 
began  to  strengthen  the  prophecies  of  some  friends  that  it  would 
not  live  through  half  the  voyage  ;  the  others  seemed  unaffected 
by  the  sea. 

One  day  I  was  much  interested  for  two  hours  in  watch 
ing  a  couple  of  Cape  pigeons  playing  round  the  ship.  They 
wheeled  across  the  bows,  turned  close  under  the  stern,  some 
times  within  seven  feet  of  me,  tame,  apparently,  as  street  pig 
eons.  Their  movements,  and  those  of  the  small  gulls  in  Rio 
Bay,  almost  convinced  me  that  some  element  of  buoyancy  and 
of  progress,  other  than  the  mechanical  operation  of  their  wings, 
is  called  into  action.  Without  vibrating  their  expanded  wings 
(I  was  close  enough  to  detect  the  slightest  flicker),  they  rose, 
descended,  skimmed  along  the  water  surface,  shot  up,  and 
wheeled  again  and  again.  They  move  those  organs  less  than 
any  birds  I  have  seen,  though  I  am  told  the  albatross  resembles 
them  in  that  respect. 

We  crossed  the  line  on  the  19th  of  August,  with  all  the  fleet 
in  sight.  On  the  27th  the  sloth  died.  I  fed  it  with  thin  slices 
of  yam  after  bananas  gave  out,  but  it  pined  gradually  away, 
hanging  by  the  stick  on  which  it  was  brought  out  of  the  woods. 
After  a  voyage  of  fifty  days  we  landed  at  New  York,  our  com 
rades  having  dropped  off  at  Chesapeake  Bay  and  Cape  Henlo- 
pen,  while  the  frigate  passed  on  to  Boston. 

(i  >      \        •  0^-M  o    '   f 
MVU^  .  £        ^ 


APPENDIX, 


A. 

ILLUSTRATIONS   OF  ANCIENT  SOUTH   AMERICAN  ARTS:    POTTERY.— STONE 
WARE  AND  WORKS  IN  METAL  UNDER  THE  INCAS.— MODERN  CARVINGS. 

Relics  of  American  arts  arc  of  peculiar  interest,  inasmuch  as  they  are  connected 
with  the  solution  of  one  of  the  greatest  problems  in  human  history.  Here  is  one 
half  of  the  planet  without  a  page  of  written  record,  without  legends  or  traditions. 
From  its  first  occupancy,  at  a  period  whose  date  no  one  can  tell  or  even  conjecture, 
down  to  comparatively  recent  days,  it  presents  to  the  historian,  instead  of  a  chron 
icle  of  dynasties,  of  stirring  actions  and  mighty  events,  a  huge  and  silent  blank — 
not  the  name  of  an  individual,  nor  the  sound  of  a  footfall,  preserved.  Compara 
tively  speaking,  it  was  but  yesterday  that  the  continents  were  discovered,  and  the 
fact  of  their  being  in  possession  of  a  peculiar  race  proclaimed  to  the  rest  of  the 
world  ;  and  now,  as  then,  there  is  little  more  information  to  be  obtained  from  the 
Indians  respecting  their  predecessors  than  from  the  native  quadrupeds.  Whatever 
is  to  be  known  has  to  be  drawn  out  of  the  ground ;  out  of  what  the  plow  turns 
up  ;  what  mounds,  graves,  and  existing  earth-works  may  disclose,  and  what  archi 
tectural  ruins  may  afford.  These  are  the  only  archives  remaining  of  ^he  deeds  and 
destinies  of  the  old  inhabitants  of  the  hemisphere  ;  and  hence  every  thing  regis 
tered  in  them,  however  trifling  under  other  circumstances  it  might  be  considered, 
has  a  value  proportioned  to  the  insight  it  may  give  into  national  or  social  habits 
and  conditions. 

The  American  aborigines  are  melting  away.  A  change  in  terrestrial  occupancy 
on  such  a  scale  is  an  episode  unparalleled  in  the  history  of  our  globe  ;  and  though 
we  who  live  during  its  accomplishment  are  in  a  manner  indifferent  to  its  magni 
tude,  and  to  its  bearings  on  the  destinies  of  the  species  in  coming  times,  it  will  bo 
discussed  and  referred  to  in  the  distant  future  as  one  of  ever-memorable  signifi 
cance. 

Poor  themselves,  the  red  tribes  have  made  others  wealthy.  Besides  bequeathing 
to  us  the  richest  of  earthly  inheritances,  their  contributions  to  the  great  staples  of 
commerce  are  unprecedented.  To  say  nothing  of  the  fur-trade,  nor  of  the  metals 
in  unparalleled  profusion,  of  bread-plants  they  gave  us  the  potato,  maize,  and  man- 
dioca ;  of  poultry,  the  turkey  is  an  example  ;  and  of  raw  materials  for  manufac 
tures,  india-rubber  is  another.  Of  timber  for  ship-building  and  furniture,  we  are 
indebted  to  them  for  mahogany,  rose,  satin,  and  at  least  two  hundred  varieties  of 
ornamental  and  dye  woods.  In  medicine,  quinine,  jalap,  and  ipecacuanha  readily 
occur,  besides  a  list  of  plants,  including  tobacco,  which  have  become  necessities  to 
such  a  degree  that  nations  would  stand  aghast  if  threatened  to  be  deprived  of  them. 
To  a  people  to  whom  we  owe  so  much,  the  least  we  can  do  is  to  gather  up  for  pos 
terity  whatever  memorials  of  them  may  fall  in  our  way. 

General  Alvares,  the  last  Spanish  political  chief  and  commandant  of  the  prov 
ince  of  Cuzco,  made  up  during  his  administration  a  varied  and  valuable  collection 


446  APPENDIX. 

of  antiques.  Arriving  at  Rio  de  Janeiro  (on  his  way  to  Spain),  he  disposed  of 
them  there.  To  the  politeness  of  the  purchaser — Senhor  Barboza,  a  Brazilian  gen 
tleman  of  great  learning  and  of  antiquarian  tastes — I  was  indebted  for  opportuni 
ties  to  examine  them.  No  account  of  them  has  been  published  till  now,  and  it 
is  doubtful  if  any  modern  volume  contains  a  finer  assemblage  of  antiquities  of  the 
kind. 

For  the  purposes  of  classification  and  description,  the  articles  are  arranged  in 
groups,  according  to  the  principal  material  in  each,  while  the  accompanying  illus 
trations  may  be  viewed  as  so  many  pattern-cards  of  pottery,  stoneware,  hardware, 
works  in  silver,  gold,  and  champi  (said  to  be  an  alloy  of  copper  and  gold,  or  of 
copper  and  silver). 

Earthenware. 

The  first  figure,  a,  is  of  special  interest,  from  its  historical  associations,  and  the 
light  it  reflects  upon  one  of  the  modes  by  which  Peruvians  perpetuated  the  features 
and  characters  of  prominent  men.  A  drinking-vessel  of  a  reddish  clay,  it  stands 
nine  inches  high,  has  an  internal  depth  of  six  inches,  and  is  two  inches  across  the 
mouth.  It  belongs  to  a  class  of  vessels  of  which,  it  is  supposed,  there  are  not  over 
two  or  three  extant,  viz.,  vase-busts.  It  represents  the  head  of  the  famous  Cacique 
Ruminhauy.  The  features  are  strongly  developed,  and  with  indisputable  traits  of 
an  individual's  portrait.  A  deep  wound  is  shown  on  the  right  cheek  ;  the  eyes 
and  upper  teeth  are  prominent ;  a  front  tooth  is  left  out,  and  the  place  for  it  dis 
tinctly  marked.  The  hair  is  dressed  in  plaited  cords.  The  ears  are  small,  un- 
pierced,  and  well  modeled,  the  upper  lobes  being  level  with  the  under  eyelids. 
The  border  of  the  tire  or  head-dress  is  handsomely  notched  in  front  and  twisted  be 
hind.  The  round  base,  as  well  as  the  rest,  was  modeled  by  hand,  and  by  the  hand 
of  an  expert  too.  It  will  be  remembered  that  in  the  Old  World  baked  clay  busts 
and  relievos  preceded  marble  statuary. 

Instead  of  carousing,  like  the  savage  Scandinavians,  and  others  professing  more 
refinement,  from  the  skulls  of  the  conquered,  the  Peruvians  employed  these  harm 
less  imitations,  and  anticipated  a  branch  of  art  which  modern  potters  might  use 
fully  extend  much  farther  than  they  have  yet  attempted. 

Ruminhauy,  or  Rumminaui,  stands  out  in  horrid  relief  in  the  Commentaries  of 
Garcilasso  de  la  Vega.  After  the  death  of  Atahualpa,  he  schemed  to  succeed  him 
With  this  view  he  invited  the  brother  of  the  murdered  Inca,  his  sons  and  daughters, 
and  some  chiefs  whom  he  could  not  rely  on,  to  a  feast,  at  which  he  introduced,  be 
sides  the  ordinary  drinks,  a  spirituous  liquor  named  sora.  His  object  was  accom 
plished.  His  guests  indulged  in  it,  became  intoxicated  and  helpless,  and  he  sle\v 
them.  He  covered  a  drum  with  the  skin  of  Atahualpa's  brother,  leaving  the  seal]) 
hanging  to  it.  He  subsequently  buried  alive  a  number  of  females,  old  and  young, 
under  circumstances  of  unusual  barbarity.  "  Thus  did  this  barbarous  tyrant  dis 
cover  more  unhumane  cruelty  and  relentless  bowels  by  this  murther  committed  on 
poor  silly  women,  who  knew  nothing  but  how  to  spin  and  weave,  than  by  his 
bloody  treachery  practiced  on  stout  soldiers  and  martial  men.  And  what  farther 
aggravates  his  crime  was,  that  he  was  there  present  to  see  the  execution  of  his 
detestable  sentence,  being  more  pleased  with  the  objects  of  his  cruelty,  and  his  eyes 
more  delighted  with  the  sad  and  dismal  sight  of  so  many  perishing  virgins,  than 
with  any  other  prospect.  *****  Thus  ended  these  poor  virgins,  dying 
only  for  a  little  feigned  laughter,  which  transported  the  tyrant  beyond  his  senses. 
But  this  villainy  passed  not  unpunished,  for  after  many  other  outrages  he  had  com 
mitted  during  the  time  of  his  rebellion  against  the  Spaniards,  and  after  some  skir- 


APPENDIX. 


447 


EARTHENWARE. 


mishcs  with  Sebastian  Belalcacar  (who  was  sent  to  suppress  him,  as  we  shall  here 
after  relate),  and  after  he  had  found  by  experience  that  he  was  neither  able  to 
resist  the  Spaniards,  nor  yet,  by  reason  of  his  detestable  cruelties,  to  live  among 
the  Indians,  he  was  forced  to  retire  with  his  family  to  the  mountains  of  Antis, 
where  he  suffered  the  fate  of  other  tyrannical  usurpers,  and  then  most  miserably 
perished." 

The  second  figure,  5,  has  been  modeled  after  the  head  of  the  jaguar.     Of  a  dark- 


448  APPENDIX. 

er  red  than  the  preceding,  it  is  ornamented  with  black  lines  and  spots.  There  are 
two  openings  into  this  vessel,  one  at  the  left  ear,  through  which  it  was  charged, 
and  a  small  one  at  the  back,  near  the  bottom,  to  draw  off  the  contents.  Capacity, 
three  pints,  c,  another  red  vase,  whose  form  and  ornaments  indicate  good  taste  in 
the  artist,  whoever  he  was.  On  the  opposite  side  the  remains  of  a  painted  panel 
are  visible,  and  within  it  the  figures  marked  c'.  d,  d',  are  front  and  edge  views  of 
a  flat  bottle,  eight  inches  in  diameter.  Of  a  bright  red,  the  upper  half  is  ornament 
ed  with  black,  white,  greenish,  and  purple  lines  (not  shown  in  the  figure).  Two 
cobras,  or  double-headed  snakes,  are  on  each  side.  The  vase  e  is  ornamented  all 
round,  but  less  on  the  side  represented.  It  has  three  features  characteristic  of  ves 
sels  carried  about  the  person :  loops  to  sling  it  by,  a  conical  bottom,  and  a  stud 
projecting  from  the  swell  equidistant  from  each  loop.  Whatever  was  the  object  of 
these  studs,  they  seem  to  have  been  carried  next  the  person,  since  they  are  always 
found  on  the  plain  or  least  decorated  sides.  Besides  the  loops,  a  couple  of  small 
holes  are  made  in  ears  close  to  the  rim,  as  if  to  pass  twine  through.  The  vase  / 
has  been  employed  in  heating  liquids;  marks  of  fire  are  perceptible.  Most  of  the 
colored  ornaments  are  gone,  g  is  a  beautifully-formed  vase.  The  stud  is  colored 
white,  and  the  panel  is  drawn  in  black  on  the  usual  pale-red  surface.  The  capac 
ity  about  three  pints,  h  is  somewhat  smaller,  of  the  same  general  outlines,  but 
differing  in  colored  ornaments,  i,  a  square  bottle  of  the  same  material  as  all  the 
preceding.  It  is  seven  inches  high,  and  four  across  each  side.  The  top  is  flat, 
projects  a  little  all  round,  and  more  so  at  the  corners.  The  contents  were  poured 
in  at  the  top,  and  drawn  out  at  the  small  opening  near  the  bottom.  Both  openings 
are  protected  by  raised  borders.  This  vase,  so  like  those  in  modern  liquor-cases 
(the  second  figure  b,  and  probably  others),  was  certainly  not  designed  to  hold  water, 
but  for  keeping  more  precious  liquids,  and  spirituous  liquors  in  all  probability. 
That  the  Peruvians  had  such  is  well  known.  Acosta  says  of  one  that  it  induced 
intoxication  much  quicker  than  wine ;  and  the  strength  of  sora  was  such  as  al 
most  instantly  to  prostrate  those  that  indulged  in  it.  Its  use  was  prohibited  by  sev 
eral  of  the  Incas,  under  the  penalty  of  death,  j,  f  are  front  and  end  views  of  a 
vase  in  the  form  of  a  shield,  of  very  small  dimensions,  k,  a  minute  bottle,  rather 
roughly  formed,  decorated  with  lines  sunk  in  the  surface.  /,  a  traveling-vase. 
The  face  is  well  brought  out,  and  the  whole  elaborately  painted,  m,  a  larger  one, 
holding  near  two  quarts,  and  elaborately  ornamented,  n  is  of  a  yellowish  clay, 
and  has  been  profusely  embellished ;  but,  except  traces  of  the  pencil  here  and  there, 
all  is  obliterated.  The  lip  has  a  recess  to  receive  a  plug.  This  bottle  is  supposed 
to  be  the  oldest  in  the  collection,  o,  a  minute  pitcher,  but  prettily  embellished  in 
black  and  yellow.  Having  a  rounded  and  convex  bottom,  it  was  necessarily  sus 
pended  by  the  handle,  p,  another  bottle  with  a  flat  bottom,  nearly  five  inches  in 
diameter,  and  of  the  same  height,  neck  included.  The  front  part  has  been  taste 
fully  painted,  and  the  large  handle  also.  The  weight  scarcely  exceeds  a  quarter 
of  a  pound.  </,  a  long-necked  bottle  without  a  handle,  and  designed  for  a  traveler, 
as  the  loops  and  stud  declare.  The  opposite  side  is  decorated  ;  the  one  shown  is 
left  plain.  This  vase  is  nearly  eight  inches  high,  of  which  the  neck  makes  four 
inches.  At  the  swell  it  is  four  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter,  r,  a  drinking-cup 
not  quite  four  inches  high.  The  diameter  at  top  is  rather  less,  and  at  bottom  two 
inches.  A  golden  cup  from  the  tomb  of  an  Inca  is  of  precisely  the  same  figure, 
but  less  than  half  the  size,  and  raised  without  solder  from  a  flat  piece  of  exceeding 
ly  thin  metal,  s,  t,  u,  v,  ic,  x,  y,  are  specimens  of  thirteen  plates  or  shallow  pip 
kins,  varying  from  three  to  thirteen  inches  across,  and  rarely  exceeding  half  an 
inch  in  depth.  Most  of  them  have  handles,  terminating  with  the  head  of  a  bird 


APPENDIX.  44() 

All  arc  ornamented  within,  none  without.  The  colors  are  black,  red,  white,  ami 
yellow,  the  last  looking  like  unburnished  gold.  Except  such  as  have  recurved  or 
ring-shaped  handles,  all  have  studs  at  the  rirns  ;  and  some  of  these  projections  have 
small  perforations,  probably  to  insert  loops  of  twine  to  suspend  them  against  tin- 
walls,  instead  of  resting  them  on  shelves.  Those  marked  s,  t,  were  found  in  1820 
in  a  huaca  near  Saint  Sebastian,  one  league  from  Cuzco.  z  and  a  1  are  of  stone- 
like  texture,  a  3,  a  pot  or  crucible  cover;  a  fox's  head  imitated  on  the  handle 
To  this  ancient  pottery  I  have  added  a  modern  Peruvian  specimen,  a  2,  a  small  vase 
in  my  possession.  Its  material,  a  red  clay,  is  similar  to  that  of  the  preceding.  It 
is  rudely  formed,  ill  burnt,  and  the  ornamental  work  immeasurably  worse  done  than 
what  the  old  potters  turned  out. 

There  were  a  few  other  small  matters  intended  for  the  preceding  group  of  figures, 
but  which  have  been  accidentally  omitted.  One  was  a  whistle  formed  in  the  body 
of  a  small  bird  of  baked  clay.  The  relic  was  very  old,  and  the  head  missing.  The 
tone  was  shrill  and  clear,  and  was  pleasantly  modified  by  partially  or  wholly  closing 
with  the  finger  an  opening  in  the  breast.  There  were  also  two  whistles  of  cocoa- 
wood  ;  one  gave  a  triple  sound,  and  was  little  larger  than  a  thimble. 

On  casting  a  parting  glance  over  this  invoice  of  pottery,  and  bearing  in  mind 
that  only  samples  of  plates  and  saucers  are  inserted,  it  may  appear  surprising  that 
such  numbers  of  fragile  articles  should  have  reached  us  without  being  damaged, 
after  passing  through  dark,  turbulent,  and  indefinite  periods  of  time.  But  there  is 
something  which  explains  that.  By  a  superstition  indigenous  to  all  lands,  people 
without  records  have  left  their  annals  in  their  graves.  In  the  belief  that  their 
wants  and  occupations  would  be  the  same  in  the  spirit  land  as  they  were  here,  they 
had  their  household  and  personal  effects  interred  with  them.  Every  Irica  had  his 
cooking  utensils  in  his  cemetery  ;  not  only  his  gold  and  silver  ware,  but,  observes 
the  native  historian,  "  the  plates  and  dishes  of  his  kitchen."  We  can  scarcely  re 
gret  the  prevalence  of  a  delusion  which  has  been  the  means  of  making  us  acquaint 
ed  with  the  arts  and  habits  of  peoples  of  whom  we  could  otherwise  have  known 
little,  and  posterity  nothing — that  is,  by  our  making  a  proper  use  in  this  life  of 
things  which  they  foolishly  laid  up  for  another.  Indeed,  those  things  seem  intend 
ed  by  Providence  as  agents  for  preserving  a  knowledge  of  the  successive  stages  of 
human  progress  till  barbarism  is  no  more. 

Utensils  in  Stone  and  Wood. 

I  have  here  thrown  together  in  outline  a  number  of  utensils  whose  use  is  not 
ascertained.  All,  save  one,  are  carved  in  stone,  and,  with  a  single  exception, 
modeled  after  the  llama  and  its  relatives — the  alpaca,  huanaco,  and  vicuna.  It  is 
difficult  to  imagine  them  any  thing  else  than  mortars  or  salt-cellars.  The  cavities 
are  represented  by  dotted  lines.  The  bottoms  of  all  are  flat,  and  hence  they  were 
evidently  designed  to  stand  alone,  and  to  be  used  in  the  positions  in  which  they  are 
figured.  There  were  twenty-one  in  the  collection.  Those  omitted  presented  no  pe 
culiar  Teatures.  (See  next  page  for  illustrations.) 

The  first  one,  marked  C,  is  the  largest,  being  six  and  a  half  inches  long  and  four 
inches  deep.  It  is  of  gray  basalt.  The  cavity  is  two  inches  deep,  and  three  fourths 
of  an  inch  in  diameter  at  the  top,  but  rather  wider  below.  The  whole  is  well  pol 
ished,  and  the  surface  mottled.  B  is  three  inches  long,  one  and  a  half  deep,  and 
as  wide  across  the  body.  The  stone  is  veined,  and  of  a  yellow  tint,  inclining  to 
green.  It  Is  jasper.  A.  Polished  schistus  ;  the  upper  half  black,  and  the  under 
a  palish  yellow.  The  body  two  inches  long,  and  not  quite  so  deep.  (It  is  drawn 
too  largo).  D  and  K.  Both  of  schist ;  the  former  black,  the  latter  darkish  brown 

F  F 


450 


APPENDIX. 


UTENSILS   IN   STONE   AND  WOOD. 

E,  of  alabaster ;  the  cavity  is  less  than  an  inch  in  depth,  and  not  quite  half  an  inch 
in  diameter.  F  is  schist,  or  soapstone ;  surface  black,  and  covered  with  rings 
scratched  on  it,  with  dots  in  their  centres.  G,  H,  L,  0,  P,  Q,  of  various  stones — 
two  of  steatite  ;  and  the  rest  as  easily  cut,  except  one  of  granite.  Their  dimen 
sions  vary  but  slightly  from  those  already  given.  I,  a  calcareous  stone,  wrought 
in  imitation  of  a  bear  or  hippopotamus.  N  is  of  hard  wood,  four  and  a  half  inches 
long,  and  two  inches  deep.  The  eyes  are  plugs  of  gold,  of  the  form  and  position 
represented.  M  is  one  of  a  couple  whose  lineaments  have  become  almost  entire 
ly  destroyed  by  time. 

An  extract  from  Von  Tschudi  will  add  to  the  interest  of  these  relics  : 
"  Under  the  dynasty  of  the  Incas,  when  any  useful  plant  and  animal  was  an  ob 
ject  of  veneration,  the  Peruvians  rendered  almost  divine  worship  to  the  llama  and 
his  relatives,  which  exclusively  furnished  them  with  wool  for  clothing,  and  with 
flesh  for  food.  The  temples  were  adorned  with  large  figures  of  these  animals,  made 
of  gold  and  silver,  and  their  forms  were  represented  in  domestic  utensils  of  stone 
and  clay.  In  the  valuable  collection  of  B.  C.  Von  Hiigel,  of  Vienna,  there  arc  four 
of  these  vessels,  composed  of  porphyry,  basalt,  and  granite,  representing  the  four 
species,  viz.,  the  llama,  alpaca,  huanaco,  and  vicuna.  These  antiquities  are  ex 
ceedingly  scarce,  and  when  I  was  in  Peru  I  was  unable  to  obtain  any  of  them. 


APPENDIX. 


451 


How  the  ancient  Peruvians,  without  the  aid  of  iron  tools,  were  able  to  carve  stone 
so  beautifully,  is  inconceivable." 

Implements  and  Utensils  in  Stone. 

In  the  following  group,  the  first  figure,  A,  represents  a  small  and  neatly-cut 
stone  vessel.  I  think  it  was  used  over  the  fire.  It  is  only  four  inches  in  diameter, 
and  one  and  a  half  inches  in  depth.  B  is  a  pestle,  of  hard  and  finely-grained 
granite,  and  black  with  age.  A  wild  cat,  or  panther,  is  sculptured  on  the  upper 
part,  and  forms  a  not  inconvenient  handle.  C,  a  round,  black,  and  exceedingly 
hard  stone,  regularly  formed  as  in  a  lathe,  is  nearly  seven  inches  in  diameter,  and 
three  and  a  half  inches  deep.  It  is  a  mortar ;  the  cavity  indicated  by  the  dotted 
lines.  D,  D',  a  view  and  section  of  a  silversmith's  crucible.  E  is  another.  One 
was  of  clay,  the  other  of  a  species  of  soapstone.  Neither  exceeded  two  inches  in 
depth  or  diameter. 


IMPLEMENTS    AND   UTENSILS   IN   STONE. 


I  am  not  aware  of  any  large-sized  ancient  crucibles  having  been  recovered  ;  yet 
the  old  founders  had  them,  since  they  turned  out  castings  of  several  hundred  pounds' 
weight.  Examples  abound  in  the  early  historians.  Gomarra  mentions  basins  in 


452  APPENDIX. 

a  bath  belonging  to  Atabalipa,  "  one  of  which  weighed  eight  arrobas  of  gold,  which 
makes  two  hundred  weight  English."  In  a  vault  at  Cuzco  "  an  entire  sepulchre 
[coffin]  of  silver  was  dug  up,  so  thick  and  massive  that  it  was  worth  fifty  thousand 
pieces  of  eight."  A  vessel  of  gold  was  accidentally  found,  and  it  weighed  between 
two  and  three  hundred  pounds ;  "  for  the  Indians  make  greater  or  less  of  these, 
as  occasion  requires,  using  them  to  boil  drink  or  liquors  in."  Now,  as  they  had  no 
bellows,  it  may  be  asked  how  such  masses  of  metal  were  fused.  Garcilasso  states 
'that  in  reducing  silver  from  the  ore,  "  they  melted  it  down  in  earthen  or  day  pots, 
which  they  carried  from  place  to  place  ;"  and  that,  instead  of  bellows,  they  used 
blow-pipes  "  made  of  copper,  and  about  a  yard  long,  the  ends  of  which  were  nar 
rowed,  that  the  breath  might  pass  more  forcibly  by  means  of  the  contraction  ;  and 
as  the  fire  was  to  be  more  or  less,  so  accordingly  they  used  ten  or  twelve  of  these 
pipes  at  once,  as  the  quantity  of  metal  did  require.  And  still  they  continue  this 
way,  though  the  invention  of  bellows  much  more  easier  and  forcibly  raises  the  fire." 

The  instrument  represented  at  F  F'  I  naturally  enough  took  for  a  smoothing- 
iron,  or  an  old  American  substitute  for  that  indispensable  implement  of  our  laun 
dresses,  but  I  was  greatly  mistaken.  It  is  an  ancient  plasterer's  trowel,  cut  out  of 
one  stone,  handle  and  all.  Its  dimensions  are  those  of  the  common  sad-iron  ;  the 
face  being  four  inches  by  three  and  a  half,  and  a  little  over  half  an  inch  thick. 
This  is  another  of  those  coincidences  of  thought  in  inventors,  far  separated  from 
each  other  by  distance  or  by  time.  Indeed,  every  discovery  of  new  lands  and 
strange  people  has  shown  the  uniformity  of  human  efforts  at  mental  and  material 
civilization,  a  result  that  has  frequently  excited  surprise,  but  which  ought  not, 
since  it  it  unavoidable,  being  due  not  less  to  the  earth  herself  and  the  laws  im 
pressed  on  her  materials,  than  to  man's  organic  structure.  There  are  no  mechan 
ical,  chemical,  or  other  principles  provided  for  one  part  of  the  globe,  or  for  one  race 
of  men,  to  the  exclusion  of  others;  and  hence,  wherever  invoked,  feebly  or  with 
power,  their  manifestations  must  be  more  or  less  alike.  To  smooth  the  interior 
surfaces  of  the  walls  of  dwellings  with  a  coating  of  plaster  or  clay  was  an  instinct 
ive  suggestion,  and  coeval  with  it  was  the  idea  of  the  plasterer's  trowel,  in  one  or 
more  of  its  forms.  From  the  remains  of  smooth  and  polished  walls  in  Peru,  Cen 
tral  America,  and  Mexico,  it  is  probable  that  a  finer  finishing  instrument  than  this 
stone  one  was  employed — most  likely  one  of  copper  or  silver :  modern  plasterers 
use  trowels  of  wood,  and  polish  with  blades  of  steel. 

Figure  G  is  a  black,  hard,  and  smoothly-polished  stone,  resembling  an  egg  in 
shape,  used  for  working  sheet-metal.  H  is  another  "hollowing  hammer"  of  iron 
stone,  and  one  that  might  be  employed  with  advantage  by  our  tin,  copper,  and  sil 
ver  smiths.  The  groove  worked  round  the  middle  was  the  universal  device  by 
which  handles  were  secured  to  primeval  stone  axes  and  hammers,  viz.,  by  bending 
a  hazel  or  other  pliable  rod  twice  round  the  indentation,  and  then  twisting  or  lash 
ing  the  two  ends  together.  Blacksmiths  to  this  day  every  where  thus  handle  their 
punches  and  chisels.  I,  a  box  two  inches  long,  one  deep,  and  seven  eighths  wide, 
cut  out  of  a  soft,  greenish-tinted  stone.  A  Peruvian  Indian  from  Cuzco  says  it 
was  a  salt-box.  J,  an  axe  or  hatchet,  two  inches  deep,  and  two  wide  at  the  blade, 
which  is  brought  to  a  fine  edge.  The  stone,  though  well  polished,  is  not  hard. 
K,  a  box  or  chest,  divided  into  eight  equal  compartments.  The  material  is  a 
stone  known  as  "  Aza  de  Mosca,"  Fly's  Wing.  At  the  ends  serpents  are  figured, 
and  at  the  sides  a  man  and  woman  in  high  relief  in  a  sitting  posture.  At  their 
feet  the  liquid  contents  were  drawn  out  at  two  orifices,  to  which  plugs  or  faucets 
were  adapted.  On  each  side  a  couple  of  tigers  are  sculptured,  whose  heads  and 
protruded  tongues  stand  out  full  an  inch,  their  bodies  being  in  low  relief.  For  the 


APPENDIX. 


453 


sake  of  the  head-dresses,  the  human  figures— supposed  to  represent  an  Inca  and 
his  wife — are  enlarged  and  figured  separately  at  L,  M. 

The  object  of  this  vessel  is  not  obvious,  except  that  it  was  for  mixing  liquids, 
but  whether  for  innocent  or  deceptive  purposes  does  not  appear.  A  plan  of  it  is 
below  at  K',  showing  channels  of  communication  between  the  partitions  at  the  bot 
tom  and  along  the  sides.  It  will  be  perceived  that  the  contents  of  cells  1,  6,  8,  3 
were  discharged  at  one  orifice,  while  those  of  2,  5,  4,  7  ran  out  at  the  other. 

Works  in  Bronze. 

Next  in  interest  to  a  personal  interview  with  half  a  dozen  ancient  Peruvian 
founders— could  they  be  called  up  from  the  dead  to  hold  communion  with  us— 
would  be  a  daguerreotype  picture  of  them  in  the  midst  of  their  implements  and 
processes,  and  next  to  that  are  opportunities  of  examining  articles  produced  by 
them.  The  information  thus  obtained  is  reliable  as  far  as  it  goes  ;  and  as  metallic 
antiques  accumulate,  so  will  our  knowledge  of  their  authors,  until  we  shall  be  in 
possession  of  details  of  their  fabrication.  All  the  articles  in  the  following  group 
have  been  cast,  and  some  are  remarkable  specimens  of  casting. 


IMPLEMENTS   IN   COPPER   AND  BRONZE. 

A  1,  a  staff  of  solid  bronze,  two  feet  and  a  half  long,  exclusive  of  the  wild-cat 


454  APPENDIX. 

on  the  end  of  the  handle.  See  this  end  enlarged  at  R.  The  part  grasped  by  the 
hand  was  six  inches  long,  and  nearly  an  inch  and  a  half  thick.  Two  crosses  were 
sunk  deep  in  it,  one  opposite  the  other,  and  between  them  two  other  indentations 
of  the  figure  of  R'.  The  handle  terminates  below  in  a  handsome  bulge  or  swell, 
inlaid  with  net-work  of  silver.  The  rest,  being  plain  and  tapered,  requires  no  no 
tice.  The  cord  by  which  the  staff  was  slung  over  the  arm  or  secured  to  the  wrist 
remained  attached  :  it  passed  between  the  feet  of  the  animal.  The  entire  instru 
ment  was  one  casting. 

Three  kinds  of  official  batons  have  been  found,  viz.,  in  gold,  silver,  and  bronze 
—  supposed  to  have  been  borne  respectively  by  Incas,  Curacas,  and  Caciques  —  a 
classification  that  awards  the  one  described  to  a  chieftain  of  the  latter  class.  The 
crosses  cast  in  the  handle  recall  those  met  with  by  the  early  discoverers,  to  account 
for  which  the  legend  of  St.  Thomas  preaching  in  America  was  introduced.  As  a 
mythic  symbol,  the  figure  is  known  to  be  more  ancient  than  Christianity,  both  in 
the  East  and  the  West.  Whether  employed  as  one  by  the  aboriginies  Garcilasso 
was  uncertain.  He  describes  a  cross  of  jasper  or  marble,  suspended  by  a  golden 
chain,  in  the  Inca's  apartments  at  Cuzco,  and  much  esteemed.  The  Spaniards 
seized  it ;  and  when  he  left  his  native  city  for  Europe  (in  1560),  it  was  hanging 
by  a  ribbon  in  the  vestry  of  the  cathedral  church.  It  was  only  a  few  fingers' 
breadth  in  size,  and  in  form  resembled  that  figured  at  R,  the  transverse  bar  being 
equal  to  and  running  across  the  middle  of  the  upright  one. 

The  plates  A,  D,  H  are  respectively  three,  three  and  a  half,  and  four  inches  in 
diameter,  and  vary  from  one  sixteenth  to  three  sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness. 
They  are  slightly  concave  on  one  side,  and  convex  on  the  other.  Two  are  of  cop 
per,  and  one  of  bronze.  The  difference  is  perceptible  in  their  weight — the  alloyed 
one  being,  of  course,  the  lightest.  One  is  so  covered  with  rust  as  to  resemble  iron. 
I  took  them  for  mirrors ;  but  they  do  not  seem  to  have  been  polished.  In  the 
catalogue  they  are  named  breastplates.  They  are  cast ;  and  marks  where  the  two 
halves  of  the  moulds  met  are  visible  in  the  holes  by  which  they  were  suspended. 
F  is  one  of  two  plates  of  silver.  B,  C,  E,  G  are  bronze  hair  or  dress  pins.  E, 
the  most  perfect,  is  four  inches  long,  with  a  solid  head  and  a  rude  wire  ring  sol 
dered  to  the  shank  with  silver  solder,  the  first  marked  example  of  hard  soldering  1 
have  met  with  among  old  American  metal  wares.  I,  a  knife.  A  cylindrical  haft 
three  inches  long,  and  not  quite  half  an  inch  thick,  connects  the  curved  blade  with 
a  disc  or  button,  on  which  a  fox  or  gamba  is  mounted,  with  a  prey  or  young  one  in 
its  mouth.  The  surface  of  the  haft  is  dented,  to  imitate  a  cord,  or  something  like 
the  plaited  covering  of  a  whip  handle.  In  this  particular  the  engraving  does  not 
do  it  justice.  The  blade  is  half  an  inch  deep,  and  not  quite  one  eighth  of  an  inch 
thick  at  the  back.  There  is  positively  no  soldering,  the  whole  having  been  cast  com 
plete.  The  alloy  approaches,  though  it  does  not  reach,  the  composition  known  as 
gun-metal,  whose  ingredients  for  small  articles  are,  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  tin  to  a 
pound  of  copper,  or  about  10  per  cent.  The  edge  was  rather  easily  cut  by  a  pen 
knife,  and  yet  I  think  it  was  harder  than  gun-metal ;  but  the  difference,  if  any,  in 
this  respect,  is  satisfactorily  accounted  for  by  the  well-known  impurity  of  South 
American  copper  and  tin.  Both  have  to  be  refined  before  being  used  by  European 
and  American  manufacturers.  This  was  the  common  form  of  the  old  Peruvian 
knife,  for  numbers  have  been  found,  all  bearing  the  same  general  outline.  I  have 
seen  two,  recently  brought  from  Peru,  which  approach  still  nearer  to  the  cutting 
instrument  of  saddlers,  the  hafts  being  equidistant  from  the  ends  of  the  blades,  and 
the  edges  curved  uniformly.  The  blade  of  one  is  two  inches  long,  three  fourths 
of  an  inch  wide  in  the  middle,  and  at  the  back  is  a  little  over  one  sixteenth  of  an 


APPENDIX.  455 

inch  thick;  the  haft  is  imperfectly  cylindrical,  an  inch  long,  and  three  sixteenths 
thick,  with  the  head  of  a  llama  at  the  end,  and  has  a  small  ring  for  a  thread,  to 
suspend  it  over  the  wearer's  neck.  J,  K,  two  views  of  the  same  thing — a  minute 
bell,  three  fourths  of  an  inch  in  its  longest  diameter,  rude  in  fabrication,  much  cor 
roded,  and  consequently  its  sonorous  powers  weak.  A  shapeless  hole  is  in  the 
upper  part,  from  the  metal  not  having  been  sufficiently  fluid  at  the  time  of  casting. 
A  loose  pebble  of  copper  is  within,  and  forms  the  clapper.  This  interesting  article 
was  disinterred  near  Cuzco  in  1821.  Hawks'  bells,  we  know,  were  among  the 
chief  presents  by  which  Columbus  gratified  the  Indians  of  the  Antilles  ;  but  it  is 
not  the  less  true  that  brass-founders  on  the  Pacific  possessed  the  art  of  making 
similar  things,  and  this  certainly  might  have  been  inferred  from  their  familiarity  in 
mixing  the  ingredients.  They  had  but  to  double  the  proportion  of  tin  used  in  the 
compounds  of  which  their  edge-tools  were  made.  L,  an  axe  or  chopper,  four 
inches  deep,  and  three  wide  at  the  cutting  edge,  which  is  well  formed  and  sharp. 
It  has  been  used  as  a  chisel,  for  the  upper  surface  is  partly  spread  out  by  blows, 
probably  from  a  wooden  mallet.  The  extension  of  the  head  on  either  side  was  most 
likely  designed  to  serve  as  handles  when  thus  employed.  Though  harder  than  cop 
per,  the  edge  yielded  readily  to  a  penknife.  N,  the  bronze  head  of  a  war-club,  or 
six-pointed  mace  ;  one  of  three  discovered  in  a  grave  in  the  province  of  Cuzco 
Two  are  in  fine  preservation,  but  this  is  somewhat  corroded.  The  extreme  diam 
eter  between  two  opposite  rays  is  nearly  four  inches.  The  hole  for  the  handle  is- 
of  one  inch  bore,  and  slightly  tapers.  A  collar  is  cast  on  the  side  toward  the  han 
dle.  (See  section  N'.)  M  has  one  of  the  rays  lengthened  and  formed  into  a  hatchet 
or  war-axe,  the  blade  of  which  equals  in  hardness  I  and  L.  The  side-view,  on  a 
smaller  scale,  in  the  middle  of  the  group,  represents  the  same  instrument.  The 
third  specimen  resembled  N ;  the  rays  were  a  little  longer,  and  not  so  thick. 
Though  less  than  either  N  or  M,  it  was  heavier  and  softer,  being  nearly  pun 
copper. 

Weapons  identical  with  these  are  mentioned  by  old  historians  among  arms 
stored  for  public  emergencies  during  the  sway  of  the  Incas.  "  Pikes,"  says  Garci- 
lasso,  "  clubs,  halberts,  and  pole-axes,  made  of  silver,  copper,  and  some  of  gold,  hav 
ing  sharp  points,  and  some  hardened  by  the  fire."  Carpenters,  he  observes,  had 
axes  and  hatchets  of  copper,  and  the  sculptors  cut  stone  with  flints  and  hard  peb 
bles  ground  to  an  edge. 

Bias  Valera,  one  of  the  earliest  Spanish  writers,  remarks  that  the  copper  which 
the  natives  called  anta  served  them  in  the  place  of  iron.  Of  it  they  made  knives, 
carpenters'  tools,  pins  used  by  women  on  their  heads  and  dresses,  their  polished 
mirrors,  "  and  all  their  rakes  and  hammers,"  so  that  they  worked  more  in  mines  of 
copper  than  in  others,  preferring  it  to  gold  and  silver.  It  is  very  evident  that  this 
anta  was  bronze.  Persons  not  practically  acquainted  with  it  would  pronounce  it 
copper,  from  its  resemblance  to  that  metal.  The  native  word  was  probably  ex 
pressive  of  its  true  character,  but  misunderstood  by  the  invaders. 

0,  P,  Q,  T  differ  in  form,  yet  were  evidently  designed  for  the  same  purpose, 
whatever  that  was.  A  perpendicular  hole  is  formed  on  the  top  of  each,  and  across 
it  a  transverse  wire  has  been  cast  in  a  little  below  the  surface.  (See  the  sections 
O',  P',  Q',  Tx.)  The  one  representing  the  head  of  an  Indian  (0)  is  the  smallest. 
Solid  like  the  rest,  its  weight  is  less  than  an  ounce ;  and,  though  corroded,  the 
features  are  well  defined.  The  truncated  conical  cap  is  ornamented  as  figured  ;  and 
the  acullico  in  the  mouth,  or  quid  of  coca,  is  shown  by  the  little  bulb  or  swelling. 
P  is  one  inch  and  a  quarter  high,  and  as  wide  across  the  widest  part.  It  is  of  cop 
per.  At  two  of  its  six  sides  a  couple  of  minute  serpents  are  inlaid.  Q  is  a  short 


456  APPENDIX. 

cylinder,  nearly  an  inch  in  diameter.  An  anchor-looking  figure  is  sunk  in  at  two 
opposite  parts  of  the  periphery.  T  is  not  unlike  the  mummy  of  a  cat.  It  repre 
sents  the  animal  "  quinquincho  ;"  is  nearly  two  inches  long.  The  metal  is  shrunk 
at  the  under  side  as  if  it  had  been  poured  into  an  open  mould  with  that  part  up 
permost.  S,  S',  a  pair  of  spring  pincers  or  tweezers,  one  inch  and  a  quarter  long. 
The  metal  is  thickest  at  the  bend.  They  are  little  better  than  a  bent  piece  of  sheet 
copper.  U,  a  rough  ingot  of  bronze,  sixteen  inches  long.  It  was  found  with  the 
war-clubs. 

Gold,  Silver,  Champi,  <$-c. 

1,  a  full-length  figure  of  a  female,  in  silver.  It  is  two  and  a  half  inches  high, 
but  does  not  weigh  as  much  as  a  quarter  of  a  dollar,  being  one  of  those  thin  spec 
imens  mentioned  by  the  early  historians.  I  could  not  detect  traces  of  soldering  ex 
cept  at  the  feet.  At  the  inside  of  the  legs  the  metal  laps,  and  is  unsoldered.  The 
head  is  large  beyond  all  proportion.  This  mode  of  drcssinji  the  hair  is  the  same  in 
all  the  figures  of  females.  Figure  2  shows  how  it  was  secured  behind.  3,  a  bust 
of  a  hunchback,  in  bronze,  not  quite  two  inches  high,  and  much  corroded.  The 
bulb  in  the  cheek  denotes  the  quid  of  coca.  The  weight  is  light  in  proportion  to 
the  bulk,  showing  that  tin  preponderates  in  the  alloy.  It  is  the  best  proportioned 
figure  of  the  whole,  and  apparently  the  oldest.  4  and  5  are  solid  images,  in 
"  champi,"  one  and  a  half  inches  high,  and  smooth  and  bright,  as  if  just  finished. 
4  is  a  male,  with  the  coca  quid,  and  a  cap  with  horizontal  folds.  The  hands  (im 
perfectly  developed)  are  placed  on  the  breast,  the  prevailing  attitude.  6  shows  the 
disposition  of  the  hair  of  figure  5.  The  ears,  large  and  stretched  in  the  man,  are 
invisible  in  the  female.  The  two  figures  are  supposed  to  represent  a  man  and  his 
wife.  7,  an  Indian  seated  on  his  hams,  the  hands  resting  on  the  ground.  The  cap 
is  similar  to  that  on  figure  4 ;  the  features  are  rude  and  imperfect,  and  the  whole 
much  corroded.  8  and  9,  two  views  of  one  image,  in  silver ;  an  Inca  or  Cacique, 
with  the  dress  and  badges  of  his  office,  and  the  best  finished,  if  not  the  best  mod 
eled  figure  of  tne  whole.  The  head,  as  usual,  is  too  large,  and  the  arms  are  with 
ered.  The  height  is  two  inches,  and  the  whole  solid.  Eight  golden  spokes  radi 
ate  from  the  rim  of  the  conical  hat  or  cap,  the  front  of  which  is  ornamented  with 
clotted  rays.  Two  convex  plates  of  gold  are  worn  at  the  ears.  A  species  of  cas 
sock  passes  over  the  shoulders,  and  reaches  to  the  knees  in  the  front  and  rear.  An 
outer  robe  passes  over  it,  but  descends  only  halfway.  Plaits  of  hair,  or  hat-strings, 
hang  down  upon  the  breast.  A  silver  baton  with  a  swell  on  it  is  in  the  right  hand, 
and  something  appears  to  have  once  occupied  the  other.  10,  solid  silver  ;  a  llama, 
.size  of  the  sketch.  The  joints  of  the  moulds  in  which  it  was  cast  are  indicated. 
11,  a  llama  or  one  of  its  congeners,  two  inches  high,  and  as  long.  It  has  been 
worn  as  an  ornament  or  jewel.  A  loop  of  silver  wire  is  soldered  at  the  junction 
of  the  neck  and  trunk,  while  the  tail  is  bent  to  form  another.  Two  ingots,  one 
of  silver,  the  other  of  gold,  are  soldered  on  the  back  of  the  animal,  clearly  showing 
the  ancient  use  of  the  llama  in  transporting  blocks  of  these  metals.  (The  ingots 
are  figured  beneath.)  At  the  present  time  llamas  are  of  the  greatest  utility,  as  they 
frequently  carry  the  metals  from  the  mines  in  places  where  declivities  are  so  steep 
that  neither  asses  nor  mules  could  find  footing.  12  and  12a,  another  image  of 
solid  silver,  less  than  two  inches  high.  It  is  rudely  formed,  with  the  eyes,  nose, 
and  hands  preternatural ly  large.  The  head  is  remarkably  flattened,  and  the  lobes 
of  the  ears  are  stretched  down  to  the  shoulders.  14,  a  statuette  of  a  man,  solid, 
nine  and  a  half  inches  high,  very  heavy,  and  black  with  age.  The  nose  is  large 
and  aquiline  ;  the  ears  slit  and  stretched  ;  the  cap  ribbed  horizontally  as  in  figures 


APPENDIX 


457 


458  APPENDIX. 

4  and  7.  The  material  of  this  casting,  according  to  the  catalogue,  is  "  champi,"1 
but  from  examination  it  appeared  to  me  to  be  pure  copper,  coated  or  plated  by  some 
means  with  silver,  for  when  the  latter  was  cut  through  the  copper  appeared. 
Ridges  on  the  inside  of  the  thighs  and  legs  show  the  meeting  of  the  moulds.  15 
and  16  are  two  sketches  of  one  subject.  The  image  is  that  of  a  female,  and  of  the 
same  material  and  dimensions  as  the  preceding  one.  Both  were  discovered  to 
gether,  and  are  supposed  to  represent  an  Inca  or  cacique  and  his  wife.  A  num 
ber  of  gold,  silver,  and  bronze  bands  are  let  in  flush  with  the  surface.  Perhaps 
they  were  places  in  the  moulds  before  the  metal  was  run  in.  By  looking  at  the 
initial  letters  placed  opposite  these  bands  in  figure  15,  it  will  be  seen  that  two  arc 
of  gold,  five  of  silver,  and  three  of  baser  metal.  The  eyes  and  paps  are  of  gold. 
The  bands  vary  from  three  eighths  to  three  sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  width,  and  their 
ends  lap  over  each  other  and  are  imperfectly  united.  Their  thickness  appeared  in 
one  place  over  an  eighth  of  an  inch.  The  whole  figure  is  black ;  but,  if  scratched 
any  where,  silver  appears,  and  when  cut  through,  copper  comes  to  view.  The  an 
kle-bones  were  quite  prominent,  the  fingers  poorly  portrayed,  the  feet  flat  above, 
with  sand-holes  in  several  parts,  and  the  joints  of  the  flasks  were  observable,  leav 
ing  no  room  to  doubt  that  those  essential  devices  in  our  foundries  were  used  by  old 
Peruvian  craftsmen.  13,  a  chuspa  for  carrying  tobacco  or  coca.  The  weft  is 
cotton ;  the  warp  Alpaca  wool.  The  front  is  eight  inches  square,  and  ornamented 
with  figures  wrought  in  the  fabric  as  represented.  The  strap  is  a  species  of  knit 
ted  work,  very  similar  to  what  modern  Indians  produce.  These  bags  were  sus 
pended  at  the  left  side,  the  straps  going  over  the  right  shoulder.  This  relic  is  in 
tolerable  preservation,  although  the  owner,  from  whose  body  it  was  taken,  had  long 
been  reduced  to  dust. 

The  magic  effects  ascribed  by  old  writers  to  the  use  of  coca — enabling  men  to 
pass  days  without  food,  and  under  severe  labors — are  testified  to  by  modern  trav 
elers.  Von  Tschudi  says  it  is  in  the  highest  degree  nutritious  ;  that  with  its  aid 
miners  and  others  undergo  incredible  fatigue  on  very  spare  diet ;  that  those  who 
are  in  the  habit  of  masticating  it  require  little  food,  &c.  Though  a  powerful  stim 
ulant,  and  its  effects  on  the  looks  of  inveterate  chewers  any  thing  but  attractive,  its 
moderate  use,  he  thinks,  is  not  merely  innoxious,  but  conducive  to  health.  An  In 
dian  employed  by  him  in  laboriously  digging  for  five  days  and  nights,  tasted  no  food 
during  that  time.  Every  three  hours  he  chewed  half  an  ounce  of  coca-leaves,  and 
kept  a  quid  continually  in  his  mouth.  Individuals  of  great  age  have  chewed  it  from 
infancy.  He  refers  to  Indians  who  have  attained  130  years.  One,  living  in  1839, 
was  142  years  old,  and  for  90  years  had  never  tasted  water — not  a  drop  !  During 
that  time  he  had  drunk  only  chicha — a  filthy  and  intoxicating  liquor.  When  eleven 
years  of  age,  he  began  to  chew  coca  three  times  a  day,  and  continued  the  practice 
through  the  rest  of  his  life. 

The  testimony  of  early  writers  is  confirmed  in  other  particulars  by  the  preceding 
figures.  Three  things  were  instituted  by  Manco  Capac  to  distinguish  his  success 
ors — shaving  the  head  except  a  single  lock,  wearing  large  ear-ornaments,  and  the 
llautu  —  a  species  of  turban  composed  of  a  long  strip  of  cloth  of  divers  colors. 
The  hair  was  removed  by  sharp  flints  ;  and  the  operation,  being  a  painful  one,  led  a 
young  Inca  who  had  undergone  it  to  observe  that,  had  the  Spaniards  introduced  no 
other  inventions  than  scissors,  looking-glasses,  and  combs,  they  deserved  all  the 
gold  and  silver  in  the  country.  The  llautu  is  seen  in  Figures  4,  7,  14,  page  457. 

When  the  native  historian  speaks  of  ear-rings,  he  means,  generally,  round  or 
elliptical  discs,  not  pendent  from,  but  embraced  within  the  outstretched  lobe,  the 
opening  in  which  "  was  so  wide  that  it  is  wonderful  to  conceive  how  it  is  possible 


APPENDIX. 


459 


for  the  velvet  of  the  ear  to  be  extended  so  far  as  to  receive  an  ear-ring  as  large  as 
the  block  of  a  pulley,  for  it  was  made  in  the  form  of  those  with  which  we  draw  up 
water  from  a  well."  Figures  4,  5,  7,  8,  12,  14,  page  457,  show  enlarged  lobes, 
but  not  so  perfectly  as  the  originals.  The  mode  of  wearing  jewels  in  them  is  still 
followed  by  South  American  tribes.  The  subjoined  cut  represents  a  Brazilian  In 
dian  with  discs  of  pito  wood,  three  inches  in  diameter  and  an  inch  thick,  in  his  ears 
and  under  lip.  I  obtained  specimens  of  these  ligneous  gems.  To  the  tribes  on 


me  Pacific,  which  had  their  ears  thus  preternatu rally  enlarged,  the  Spaniards  ap 
plied  the  term  Oregons  or  Orejones.*  The  figures  on  page  457,  just  quoted,  are 
all  thus  designated  in  the  catalogue  of  Gen 
eral  Alvares.  Figure  12,  which,  as  already 
stated,  has  the  lobes  stretched  to  the  shoul 
ders,  illustrates  another  historical  passage, 
which  informs  us  that  barbarous  tribes  sub 
dued  by  the  Incas  were  accustomed  to  flat 
ten  the  heads  of  their  children  between  two 
boards. 

Besides  ordinary  relics  in  stone,  as  chis 
els,  maize-pounders,  etc.,  there  was  in  Mr. 
Barboza's  collection  a  beautifully-wrought 
lip-ornament,  of  a  bright  green  jade.  It  is  a 
button  or  disc  of  the  size  of  a  cent,  but  thick 
er,  and  with  a  shank  enlarged  into  a  cres 
cent,  as  represented  in  the  margin.  A  slit 
is  cut  through  the  lower  lip  parallel  with  the 
mouth,  and  the  shank  inserted  endwise,  and 
then  turned,  so  that  the  curved  part  rests 
against  the  gums  within  the  lip,  while  the 
round  and  polished  face  remains  without. 
These  discs  are  therefore  not  worn  horizon- 

*  Has  the  territory  of  Oregon  derived  its  name  from  the  distorted  ears 
of  its  early  inhabitants  ? 


460 


APPENDIX. 


tally,  like  those  of  the  Boto-Cudos  in  the  preceding  figure.  The  Chiriviones  of 
Paraguay,  as  well  as  Brazilian  tribes,  still  wear  them  ;  in  fact,  they  form  quite  an 
item  in  the  early  accounts  of  the  Amazons.  Jasper  lip-jewels  are  noted  hy  early 
travelers,  some  of  whom,  when  they  first  beheld  the  openings  in  the  under  lips, 
imagined  they  had  found  men  with  two  mouths. 

A  modern  founder  would  be  puzzled  to  cast  complete — that  is,  without  the  ap 
plication  of  a  file,  chisel,  or  other  tool  after  the  articles  had  left  the  sand — such 
things  as  figure  I  and  A  1,  page  453,  and  figure  8,  page  457 — to  say  nothing  of  oth 
ers  still  more  intricate.  It  is  very  evident  that  the  most  elaborate  works  in  metal 
were  solely  produced  by  the  crucible,  hammer,  and  abrasion,  to  which  the  blow 
pipe  in  soldering,  and  the  process  of  chasing  must  be  added.  The  secret  lies  in 
one  word — patterns  of  wax.  These,  plain  or  intricate  in  detail,  were  modeled  by 
hand,  and  buried  in  moulds  of  plaster  or  clay,  which,  when  dried,  were  heated,  the 
wax  run  out,  and  its  place  filled  with  molten  metal.  Inlaid  material  was  imbedded 
in  the  waxen  type,  and  thereby  became  imbedded  in  the  metal.  This  explanation 
accords  with  every  ancient  piece  of  work.  It  removes  every  difficulty,  and  is  the 
only  one  that  does. 

Specimens  of  carving  by  modern  Peruvians  are  subjoined.  Figures  1  and  2  are 
spoons,  each  cut  out  of  one  piece  of  wood.  Figure  3  is  one  of  their  knives.  The 
blade,  hammered  out  of  hoop-iron,  was  secured  in  a  slit  in  the  haft  by  strong  cot 
ton  twine.  It  is  not  unusual  for  Peruvian  Indians  to  pass  over  into  the  southwest 
ern  provinces  of  Brazil  with  little  ventures  of  carved  wood.  The  specimens  fig 
ured  were  purchased  from  one  of  the  traveling  artists. 


APPENDIX. 


461 


An  appendix,  by  the  author  of  this  volume,  to  the  report  of  the  United  States 
Naval  Astronomical  Expedition,  now  in  the  press,  contains  a  description  of  an 
tiquities  brought  from  Chile  and  Peru  by  Lieutenant  J.  M.  Gillies,  commander  of 
the  expedition.  The  contents  of  an  ancient  huaca,  near  Arica,  discovered  and  for 
warded  by  W.  W.  Evans,  Esq.,  engineer  of  the  Arica  and  Tacna  Rail-road,  were 
received  too  late  to  be  illustrated  in  the  report.  Some  of  the  relics  arc  of  unus 
ual  interest  in  an  ethnological  point  of  view,  and  are  introduced  here. 

The  skulls  of  old  Peruvians,  it  is  said,  are  indicative  of  a  peaceful  people the 

moral  preponderating  over  the  animal  organs— and  certainly  their  graves  afford 
ample  evidence  of  the  fact.  We  find  household  furniture,  plain  and  ornamental 
pottery,  knives,  spoons,  pipkins,  basket  and  wooden  ware,  pestles  and  mortars, 
hammers,  chisels,  hatchets,  whetstones,  agricultural  products,  implements  of  spin 
ning  and  weaving,  pins,  needles,  bodkins,  caps  and  clothing,  whistles  and  toys  for 
children — these,  and  other  instruments  of  male  and  female  industry,  taken  in  con 
nection  with  the  general  absence  of  weapons  of  war,  are  pleasing  tokens  of  do 
mestic  habits  and  pacific  inclinations. 

Seldom  are  data  met  with  from  which  to  infer  the  age  to  which  ancient  huacas 
belong.  They  are  found  in  soils  and  locations  as  well  calculated  to  preserve  their 
contents  as  the  catacombs  of  Egypt.  From  the  character  and  condition  of  the  fol 
lowing  relics,  they  may  have  been  interred,  not  only  centuries,  but  decades  of  cen 
turies.  They  consist  of  the  household  and  personal  reflects  of  a  family — of  mova 
bles  never  left  behind  on  a  change  of  residence.  Valuable  on  earth,  they  were  be 
lieved  to  be  equally  desirable  in  the  country  beyond  the  setting  sun,  and  were 
therefore  packed  up  to  accompany  them  thither — ears  of  corn,  and  also  grains 
carefully  sewed  up  in  bags,  to  plant  there,  vessels  to  hold  liquids,  and  others  in 
which  to  boil  water  there,  spindles  to  spin  thread  there,  bronze  hooks  to  catch  fish, 
and  arrows  to  kill  game  there. 


Of  pottery,  there  are  several  vases,  some  whole,  others  in  fragments.  Nos.  1 
and  3  in  the  above  group  are  nearly  of  equal  capacity — about  seven  inches  high, 
and  six  across  the  swelled  parts.  Designed  for  heating  water,  they  have  conical 
bottoms  to  drop  into  the  perforated  stone  slabs  which  formed  the  top  of  old  Peru- 


462  APPENDIX. 

vian  stoves  ;  hence  the  lower  halves  are  not  painted,  nor  are  such  vases  ever  found 
glazed.  In  texture,  hardness,  and  material,  they  resemble  our  sand  crucibles,  and 
are  possibly  as  well  adapted  to  endure  heat.  The  colors  are  black  and  red  on  a  pale 
yellow  ground.  No.  4  is  a  cover  or  stopper  to  the  first  vase,  of  the  same  material, 
hollow,  and  pretty  uniform  in  thickness — from  one  eighth  to  three  sixteenths  of  an 
inch.  Such  covers  are  in  some  respects  superior  to  our  close-fitting  pot-lids,  since 
boilers  could  never  be  exploded  by  an  accumulation  of  steam.  While  a  sudden 
evolution  of  vapor  might  partially  raise  them,  they  could  never  be  blown  out  of 
their  seats  during  the  absence  or  in  the  presence  of  the  cook.  No.  2  is  a  more 
perfect  pitcher  than  I  have  ever  met  with  among  American  antiques.  It  is  flat- 
bottomed,  has  a  loop  handle,  but  not  a  contracted  lip.  The  ground  color  is  a  dark 
chocolate,  upon  which  are  displayed,  with  considerable  effect,  white  lines,  stars,  and 
circles.  The  rim  is  painted  inside  and  out.  Taken  altogether,  this  vase  is  wor 
thy  of  a  place  on  modern  tables.  The  material  is  a  light  reddish  clay.  No.  5,  a 
small  wide-mouthed  and  flat-bottomed  bowl.  No.  6,  possibly  a  toy,  since  its  ca 
pacity  hardly  exceeds  that  of  a  wine-glass. 


Of  the  above,  No.  1  resembles  a  tankard  or  quart  measure  in  dimensions  and 
form,  with  the  mitred  head  of  an  Inca  for  a  handle.  The  colors  are  black  and 
brown  on  a  red  ground.  A  similar  vessel,  with  the  head  and  body  of  a  mon 
key  for  a  handle,  was  found  in  a  grave,  eleven  feet  below  the  surface,  near  Ari- 
quipc,  during  the  past  year,  and  presented  to  the  Smithsonian  Institution  by  Mr. 
Eckel,  United  States  Consul  at  Talcahuana,  Chile.  It  is  better  painted  and  in 
better  preservation  than  the  one  represented  here.  No.  2,  a  boiler,  twice  the  ca 
pacity  of  those  on  the  preceding  page  :  it  shows  marks  of  the  fire,  and  is  destitute 
of  ornament.  A  painted  stopper  closes  the  mouth.  No.  3,  a  small  vase  for  heat 
ing  liquids,  and  No.  4,  a  still  smaller  one.  No.  5,  a  very  rough  little  pot,  which 
may  have  served  for  a  lamp,  if  lamps  were  used  by  ancient  Peruvians. 

The  six  objects  in  the  following  group  are  of  bronze.  No.  1  is  a  singular-looking 
article,  and  one  whose  use  it  is  next  to  impossible  to  divine.  At  the  first  glance, 
upon  its  arrival,  when  its  general  and  rough  contour  only  was  observable,  for  it 
was  imbedded  in  a  thick  envelope  of  green  oxide,  it  bore  some  resemblance  to  a 
sword-handle  ;  but  when  the  incrusted  covering  was  removed,  the  relic  assumed 
another  appearance — one  as  much  of  an  enigma  as  before.  It  is  an  elliptical  band, 
with  an  opening  three  and  a  half  inches  one  way,  and  an  inch  the  other.  The  or- 


APPENDIX. 


namental  projection  at  one  end  is  slit  down  the  middle.  The  figures  of  Incas  on 
the  broad  face  of  the  band  are  in  a  sitting  posture,  holding  cups  to  their  mouths, 
and,  minute  as  they  are,  their  legs,  arms,  and  thighs  are  singularly  relieved,  con 
sidering  that  the  article  has  been  cast  complete.  None  of  our  founders  could  pro 
duce  any  thing  like  it  from  their  moulds.  No.  2,  the  triangular  blade  of  a  knife, 
rather  more  than  two  inches  across  the  cutting  edge.  A  small  wooden  haft  had 
been  secured  to  it  by  twine,  but  it  dropped  to  dust  on  being  handled.  No.  3,  a  fish 
hook,  covered  with  blossoms  of  green  oxide.  It  retains  the  lashing  that  secured 
it  to  the  line,  and  was  found  on  the  centre  of  a  handsome  coil  formed  of  the  latter. 
Its  shank  is  one  inch  and  a  quarter  long.  No.  4,  another,  about  the  size  of  a 
mackerel-hook.  The  shorter  end  is  one  inch  and  a  half.  On  removing  the  ox 
ide,  the  metallic  part  was  found  to  be  one  eighth  of  an  inch  thick  at  the  middle. 
and  to  taper  thence  to  both  ends.  If  there  had  been  a  barb  at  one  end,  and  a 
notch  or  eye  at  the  other,  they  were  rusted  away.  This  hook  is  stiff,  and  as  dif 
ficult  to  bend  as  if  made  of  iron.  No.  5,  a  straight  hook,  the  shank  a  little  over 
two  inches  long,  with  a  barb  neatly  tied  on.  The  finely-twisted  line  has  disappear 
ed,  except  small  portions  imbedded  in  the  copper  rust.  No.  6,  a  small  hook,  half 
imbedded  in  a  portion  of  the  line.  Its  size  resembles  those  temporary  hooks  made 
by  boys  of  pins.  An  attempt  to  remove  its  green  envelope  would  destroy  it. 

Of  the  four  figures  on  the  engraving  on  the  following  page,  No.  1  is  a  prettily- 
carved  snuff  or  other  mill  for  rubbing  dry  leaves  to  powder.  It  resembles  current 
Brazilian  apparatus.  The  shallow  recess  is  two  and  a  half  inches  by  one  inch. 
The  blade  is  cracked  in  three  places,  and  each  crack  has  been  prevented  from  spread 
ing  by  drilling  holes  on  each  side,  and  binding  the  parts  together  by  twine  or  wire. 
No.  2,  a  thin  piece  of  hard  wood,  three  and  three  quarter  inches  long,  one  and 
three  eighths  wide,  three  sixteenths  thick  at  the  centre,  and  reduced  thence  to  the 
edges.  In  a  hole  in  the  centre  a  short  rod  remained.  There  were  dust  marks 
round  the  hole,  as  if  the  rod  had  been  charged  with  thread.  No.  3,  a  genuine  an 
cient  spindle,  in  good  preservation.  It  consists  of  a  round  tapered  stick,  eleven 
inches  long,  pointed  at  both  ends,  with  no  slit  or  notch  at  the  upper  end.  The  lit 
tle  stone  weight,  a  truncated  cone,  is  identical  in  form  with  some  figured  on  Aztec 
paintings.  Broken  and  decayed  pieces  of  thread,  of  llama  wool,  remain  on  the 
stem.  No.  4,  a  portion  of  a  small  stone,  which,  from  the  notch  cut  round  its  point 
ed  end,  may  have  been  used  as  a  plumb-line  or  as  a  spindle. 


464 


APPENDIX. 


Among  other  matters,  there  were  quartz  arrow-heads  in  a  reed  quiver,  and  re 
mains  of  a  sling  woven  in  black  and  white  squares.  A  variety  of  slings  were  an 
ciently  in  vogue,  and  considerable  labor  and  skill  laid  out  on  them.  This  specimen 
is  a  proof  of  the  correctness  of  old  historians  on  the  subject.  There  were  also  the 
remains  of  a  bronze  adze  in  a  forked  stick,  the  fork  presenting  an  acute  angle  ;  the 
film  of  green  oxide  remains  attached  to  the  part  to  which  the  blade  had  been  at 
tached  by  thongs.  The  implement,  when  perfect,  resembled  some  recovered  from 
Egyptian  tombs.  Then  there  were  interesting  remains  of  clothing,  plain  and  or 
namental  ;  a  child's  cap,  with  a  loop  to  pass  under  the  chin  ;  fragments  of  netting, 
of  round  and  plaited  cords  ;  a  handsomely-r-rought  bag,  with  pendent  tassels,  very 
like  a  modern  lady's  reticule  ;  and,  lastly,  a  skull,  which,  from  its  long  plaited  locks, 
may  have  belonged  to  the  mother  of  the  family.  Probably  within  it  sat  the  mind 
that  contrived  the  useful  and  ornamental  fabrics  just  mentioned,  and  in  it  revolved 
the  eyes  that  watched  their  progressive  development,  from  the  twisting  of  the 
thread  with  the  spindle  to  the  finishing  touches  given  to  them  by  her  fingers. 

There  is  something  affecting  in  the  members  of  a  family  being  thus  accompanied 
with  their  little  stock  of  valuables  on  their  exodus  from  this  world  and  their  jour- 
neyings  to  another.  'Happily,  they  had  no  idea  that  their  treasures  would  be  stolen, 
and  even  their  own  bodies  borne  oif  as  curiosities  by  people  of  another  race. 


B. 

NOTICIA  IIISTORICA  DE  SANTA  PRISCILLIANA   VIRGEM  MARTYR. 

Sao  os  subterraneos  de  Roma  uma  das  cousas  que  inspiruo  curiosidade  a  todo  o 
estrangeiro  e  religioso  respeito  ao  christao  que  visita  a  Cidade  Eterna.  Vinte  e 
tantos  destes  lugarcs  abertos  no  seio  da  terra,  dos  quaes  o  maior  e  o  que  tern  hoje 
o  nome  de  Catacumbas  de  S.  Scbastiao,  que  tern  doze  milhas  de  extensao  nas  suas 
diversas  ruas  subterranoas,  onde  estuo  enterrados  cento  e  setenta  mil  christaos, 


APPENDIX.  4(55 

martyres  e  nao  martyres,  formao  uma  segunda  Roma  subterranca.  E'  inconccbi 
vel  como  e  para  que  se  perfurou  ern  todos  os  sentidos  o  baixo  da  terra  de  Romn. 
cmquanto  se  ignora  a  or'igem  disto :  desde  o  principio  da  fundacao  da  cidade  que 
os  Romanos  edilicao  coin  um  barro,  que  chaniiio  hoje  Pozzolana,  que  so  se  encon- 
tra  em  uma  camada  geral  algurnas  bracas  ao  fundo  da  terra  ;  e  para  esta  extracciio 
iao  cavando  o  terreno  em  forma  de  corredores  de  abobada  ;  c  e  de  tal  sorte  gluti- 
noso  e  consistente,  que  nao  se  ve  um  so  desmoronamento  no  cabo  de  tantos  seculos 

Como  estas  barreiras  pertenciao  a  particulares,  aquelles  dos  proprietarios  que 
erao  christaos  nos  tres  primeiros  seculos  de  perseguicao  contra  o  christianismo,  as 
convertiao  em  asylos  religiosos,  onde  a  furto  se  rcuniao  ao  clariio  das  alampadas, 
exerciao  todos  os  officios  da  religiao  e  enterravao  os  seus  mortos  em  catacumbas 
abertas  de  um  e  outro  lado  ao  longo  dos  corredores,  como  ainda  hoje  se  conservao 
e  se  vem ;  notando  porem  que  nos  jazigos  dos  christaos  que  morrerao  de  morte 
natural  nao  se  encontra  nem  emblema  nem  epitaphio  ou  signal  algum  que  o  distin- 
ga ;  naquellcs  porem  ondo  jazem  os  corpos  dos  que  morrerao  pelo  martyrio  le-se  o 
seu  nome  aberto  em  uma  lapida,  ou  na  parede  que  fecha  a  catacumba,  o  dia  e  o 
anno  em  que  sofi'reu  o  martyrio,  e  uma  palma  esculpida,  que  o  symbolisa  ;  e  em 
grande  numero  delles  se  encontra  dentro,  junto  a  cabeca  do  cadaver,  um  vaso  com 
sangue  e  area,  quando  o  podiao  apanhar  no  lugar  ende  o  martyr  cahira  morto ;  as 
chronicas  e  as  legendas  dos  escriptores  sagrados  desse  tempo  narrao  entao  a  his- 
toria  da  vida  e  genero  de  tormentos  que  soffreruo  esses  martyres,  cujos  corpos  se 
achao  nesses  subterraneos. 

Foi  so  dcpois  de  trezentos  annos  que  a  religiao  sahio  debaixo  da  terra  e  ergueu 
os  seus  altares  no  meio  da  Roma  pagua :  desde  entao  ate  hoje  estes  lugares  sub 
terraneos  foriio  tidos  na  maior  venera^ao  e  cuidado,  porque  pertencem  ao  dominio 
da  historia  e  da  religiao. 

Santa  Priscilliana,  Virgem  Romano,  no  tempo  em  que  Julianno  Apostata,  im- 
perador,  perseguia  com  mais  raiva  os  discipulos  da  Cruz,  nao  tinha  senao  16  annoe 
de  idade,  e  sempre  em  companhia  de  sua  piedoza  mai  Santa  Priscilla,  que  consa- 
grara  o  rendimento  de  todos  os  seus  bens  ao  servi^o  da  caridade,  se  occupava  fer- 
vorosamente  com  ella  nestes  exercicios  pios  e  em  prestar  soccorros  aos  martyres 
durante  o  tempo  de  suas  prisoes  e  tormentos,  e  depois  de  mortos,  em  fazer  recolher 
os  seus  cadaveres  e  as  reliquias  de  seu  sangue  para  Ihes  dar  jazigo  nas  catacumbas  : 
sorprendida  na  pratica  desta  devocao  e  exercicios  de  caridade,  presa  e  interrogada 
pela  sua  religiao,  confessou  a  Cruz,  e  todos  os  tormentos  e  torturas  empregadas 
nos  debeis  membros  dadelicada  virgem  de  16  annos  nao  poderao  conseguir  abater 
a  sua  fc,  que  sustentou  no  meio  de  dores  horriveis,  ate  quo  o  ministro  do  tyranno, 
desesperado  de  nada  conseguir  da  heroica  virtude  da  virgem,  mandou-lhe  atravessar 
uma  espada  pelo  pescoco,  o  que  a  fez  cahir  morta  no  meio  da  pra£a,  no  dia  16  de 
Janeiro,  para  ir  viver  eternamente  no  ceo,  e  na  terra  ser  venerada  como  uma  heroina 
da  religiao. 

Os  virginacs  restos  mortaes  de  Santa  Virgem  Martyr  Priscilliana  jaziao  em  uma 
das  catacumbas  do  cemiterio  subterraneo  de  Ciriaca  na  via  Tiburtina,  e  dahi  forao 
tirades  por  sua  eminencia  o  cardeal  patricio,  vigario  geral  de  Roma,  e  concedidos, 
por  muito  especial  gra^a  de  sua  santidade  o  papa  Gregorio  XVI.  ao  Dr.  Manoel 
Joaquim  de  Miranda  Rego,  parocho  da  freguezia  de  Santa  Anna  desta  corte,  para 
os  collocar  na  sua  igreja  parochial.  Dentro  da  catacumba  junto  ao  esqueleto  da 
Santa  Virgem,  do  lado  da  cabeca,  estava  um  vaso  de  barro  contendo  o  seu  sangue 
com  area,  assim  como  foi  apanhado  no  dia  do  seu  martyrio,  e  o  nome  da  Virgem 
gravado  no  bojo  do  mesmo  vaso,  o  qual  tambem  foi  concedido  por  sua  santidade  e 
se  acha  dentro  da  area  que  contem  as  santas  reliquias.  O  ossos  de  Santa  Virgem 

GG 


466  APPENDIX. 

Martyr  estao  vestidos  de  urn  envoltorio  de  cera,  que  a  representa  na  sua  idade  de 
16  annos,  e  so  o  alto  da  cabe^a  esta  descoberto  e  deixa  ver  o  craneo  da  Santa 
Virgem. 

A  solemnidade  da  trasladacao  e  exposicao  dcste  precioso  monumento  da  religiao. 
que  a  cidade  de  S.  Sebastiiio  tern  a  fortuna  de  possuir  pela  primeira  vez,  vai  ter 
lugar  logo  que  SS.  MM.  Imperiaes  tenhao  regressado  a  esta  capital,  na  forma  que 
dispozer  a  pastoral  de  S.  Ex.  Revma. 

Nesse  mesmo  dia  tera  lugar  a  installa^ao  da  irmandade  de  Santa  Priscilliana 
Virgem  Martyr  :  a  sua  voca^So  e  o  culto  e  a  caridade  fraterna  ;  cuidando  da  decen- 
cia  da  area,  onde  estao  depositadas  as  reliquias  santas,  fazendo  celebrar  uma  missa 
solemne  no  dia  de  sua  festividade  ;  e  dotando,  cada  anno,  segundo  os  fundos  do 
cofre,  a  donzellas  pobres,  para  casamento,  com  o  dote  de  600$  rs.  a  cada  uma,  em 
honra  e  gloria  da  Santa  Virgem  Martyr. 


c. 

CARTA  PASTORAL  DO  EXM.  SR.  BISPO  DO  RIO  DE  JANEIRO,  ANNUNCIANDO  A 
PRESENCA  DO  SAGRADO  CORPO  DA  VIRGEM  E  MARTYR  SANTA  PRISCIL 
LIANA,  E  ESTABELECENDO  O  CEREMONIAL  DA  TRASLADACAO  E  DA  FES- 
TA  DAS  SANTAS  RELIQUIAS. 

D.  Manoel  do  Monte  Rodrigues  de  Araujo,  por  merce  de  Deos  e  da  Santa  Se 
Apostolica,  bispo  do  Rio  de  Janeiro,  conde  de  Iraja,  do  conselho  de  S.  M.  o  Im- 
perador,  seu  capellao-mor,  deputado  a  asscmblea  geral  legislativa  pela  provin- 
cia  do  Rio  de  Janeiro,  grao-cruz  das  ordens  de  S.  Januario  e  de  Francisco  I.  do 
reino  das  Duas  Sicilias,  grande  dignitario  da  imperial  ordem  da  Roso,  commen- 
dador  da  de  Christo,  etc.,  etc.,  etc. 

Aos  fieis  que  habitao  esta  cidade  do  Rio  de  Janeiro,  graca  e  paz  da  parte  de  Deos 
Padre,  e  da  de  Nosso  Senhor  Jesus  Christo. 

Bemdizendo  ao  Senhor  pelos  beneficios  que  nao  cessa  de  fazcr-nos,  nos  vamos 
annunciar-vos,  M.  C.  F.,  um  dos  seus  grandes  favores,  qui  muito  pode  contribuir 
para  a  nosso  salvacao.  Ao  dar-vos  a  noticia  que  pretendemos,  nos  nos  possuimos 
dos  mesmos  sentimentos,  e  empregaremos  as  mesmas  palavras  de  S.  Joao  Chrysos- 
tomo  em  uma  occasiao  semelhante :  "  Eu  exulto  de  felicidade,  disse  elle,  e  o  men 
prazer  chega  ate  a  loucura ;  porem  uma  loucura  que  vale  mais  que  a  sabedoria  do 
mundo.  Eu  triumpho,  eu  estou  transportado  de  alegria,  e  o  meu  espirito  em  uma 
especie  dc  arrebatemento.  Que  direi  cu  1  Como  exprimir  os  sentimentos  da  min- 
ha  alma!  Direi  o  poder  dos  martyres,  a  derrota  dos  demonios,  a  dignidade  da 
Igreja,  a  virtude  da  Cruz,  os  milagres  de  Jesus  crucificado,  a  gloria  do  Pai,  a  gra^a 
do  Espirito  Santo,  a  fe  de  todo  o  povo,  os  transportes  de  toda  a  cidade,  o  coro  das 
virgens,  a  bella  ordem  dos  sacerdotes,  o  ardor  dos  homens  de  todos  os  estados,  dos 
magistrados,  dos  pobres  e  dos  ricos,  dos  cidadaos  e  dos  estrangeiros"?" 

Assim  se  exprimia  o  grande  pontifice  de  Constantinopla,  por  occasiao  da  tras- 
Iada9ao  das  reliquias  de  um  santo  martyr ;  e  da  mesma  maneira,  nos  vos  annun- 
ciamos  hojc,  M.  C.  F.,  que  se  acha  no  meio  de  nos  o  corpo  da  virgem  e  martyr 
Santa  Priscilliana !  Estes  sagrados  despojos,  tirados  dcsscs  lugarcs  sulterrancos 
onde  a  nova  Roma,  mai  dos  martyres,  encerra  nas  suas  cntranhas  dquclles  a  quern 
Roma  idolatra,  e  cmbriagada  do  sangue  dos  martyres  perseguio  ;  estes  sagrados 
despojos,  nos  os  devcmos  a  devocao  do  noss.)  irmao  o  digno  parocho  da  freguezia 
de  Santa  Anna,  e  a  liberalidade  do  pontifice  reinante  Gregorio  XVI.  ! 

Feliz  cidade  do  Rio  de  Janeiro,  que  possues  uma  tdo  consider  av  el  reliquia  !    Con- 


APPENDIX.  467 

templando  esses  ossos  tnanimados,  mas  quo  forao  objecto  do  uma  providencia  par 
ticular  que  os  guardou,  que  cxemplos  de  virtude  nao  tens  tu  que  aprender?  Quo 
valimento  nao  te  alcai^anio  ellcs,  e  quantos  bcncficios  tu  nao  rccolheras  por  sua 
interccssiio,  junto  aquelle  que  assim  tern  honrado  aos  sous  santos  !  Abre,  abre  as 
tuas  portas,  e  recebe  com  alegria,  com  pompa,  e  sobrctudo  com  devocao,  urn  tao 
precioso  dom.  Que  os  teus  sentimcntos  nesta  occasiao  sejao  os  mesmos  quo  outr' 
ora  animarao  a  papulae,  experimentou  e  dcscreveu  o  santo  bispo  de  Constanti- 
nopla. 

.  S  Ex.  contimia  longamente  tratando  da  vemeracao  e  do  culto  que  desdc 
o  principio  do  christianismo  se  tributou  as  reliquias  dos  martyrcs  ;  das  heresias  qur 
no  seculo  XVI.  se  suscitarao  a  este  respeito  :  da  constante  doutrina  da  igreja  ensi- 
nada  pelos  concilios  c  santos  padres  sobre  este  ponto,  e  depois  conclue  assim  : 

.  Ainda  uma  reflexao  sobre  o  culto  das  santas  reliquias,  e  nos  concluiremos 
este  nosso  trabalho.  0  culto  das  reliquias,  sera  certamente  mui  agradavel  aos 
Santos,  cujos  restos  preciosos  nos  vene'ramos ;  mui  agradavel  a  Deos,  a  quern  nos 
louvamos,  louvando  aos  seus  santos,  se  por  ventura  esse  culto  tiver  por  objecto 
imitar  as  virtudes  desses  santos.  Em  verdade  que  a  virtude  do  martyrio  e  heroica. 
e  nao  e  dado  a  todos  aspira-la ;  mas  quando  os  martyres  chegavao  a  este  grao  da 
tbrtaleza  christaa,  outras  virtudes  os  haviao  disposto  e  preparado  para  isto.  A  ora- 
V'ao,  o  jejum,  a  penitencia,  a  vigilancia,  a  piedade,  a  caridade,  eis-aqui  o  que,  des- 
apegando-os  desta  vida,  levava-os  a  sacrifica-la  por  amor  de  Jesus  Christo.  Ora, 
estas  virtudes  nos  podemos  imitar.  Assim  honravao  os  nosses  maiores  aos  santos 
martyres,  e  assim  cumpre  que  nos  igualmente  os  honremos.  Quando  a  celebre 
Aglae  mandava  de  Roma  o  seu  domestico  Bonifacio  procurar  as  reliquias  dos  mar- 
tyres  no  Oriente,  dizia  Ihe  :  "  Sabei,  o  Bonifacio,  que  os  corpos  dos  fieis  que  vao 
buscar  os  dos  martyres  devem  ser  puros  e  sem  mancha ;  nao  seria  honra-los  nao 
imitar  as  suas  virtudes  ! 

"Santa  Priscilliana,  cuja  reliquia  noshoje  veneramos, brilhou  na  Igreja  de  Deos, 
especialmente  pelo  exercicio  da  caridade  christaa.  O  seu  nome  acha-se  associado 
ao  dessas  illustres  virgens  e  matronas  romanas  que  nesses  dias  infaustos  para  a 
religiao,  quando  a  perseguicao  desfechava  dc.sapiedados  golpes  sobre  os  confessores 
da  fe,  ellas  os  assistiao  com  as  suas  ora9oes  com  auxilios  temporaes,  pensavao-lhes 
as  suas  chagas,  davao  sepultura  aos  seus  corpos.  Santa  Priscilliana  e  sua  mai 
Santa  Priscilla  tinhao  applicado  todos  os  seus  bens  a  pratica  de  uma  tao  louvavel 
caridade ;  e  foi  em  odio  desta  virtude  que  o  imperador  Juliano  Apostata  mandou 
traspassar  com  uma  espada  o  pesco^o  da  joven  Priscilliana,  que  por  este  modo 
ajuntou  a  aureola  da  virgindade  a  palma  do  martyrio  !  A  caridade  portanto,  a 
beneficencia  christaa  deve  ser  a  virtude  pela  qual  especialmente  honremos  a  memo- 
ria  da  santa,  veneremos  as  suas  reliquias.  Nos  ouvimos  com  prazer  que  uma  as- 
socia9ao  religion  vai  estabolecer-se  sob  a  proteccao  da  Virgem  e  Martyr  Santa 
Priscilliana,  cujo  fan  e,  alem  do  culto  a  sagrada  reliquia,  a  dota^ao  para  casamento 
a  donzellas  pobres.  Digne-se  o  Senhor,  que  e  a  mesma  caridade,  de  aceitar  esta 
homenagem  em  honra  da  gloriosa  Virgem  e  Martyr  Priscilliana  ;  digne-se  de  ani- 
:nar  e  sustentar  os  esfor^os  dos  fundadores  de  tao  pia  e  util  institui^ao,  e  que  ella 
?ncontre  a  mais  viva  sympathia  e  efficaz  cooperacao  nos  fieis  desta  diocese,  como 
nos  o  esperamos." 

Depois  destas  considera9oes,  nos  vamos  estabelecer  o  seguinte  ceremonial  qur 
se  deve  observar  na  trasladacao  e  festa  da  reliquia  de  Santa  Priscilliana,  em  con- 
formidade  do  que  prescreve  a  instruccao  de  S.  Carlos  Borromea  no  concilio  pro 
vincial  4°  mediolanense,  a  rubrica  do  ritual  romano,  e  os  preceitos  liturgicos  em 
casos  taes,  e  de  accordo  com  o  nosso  Him.  e  Revm.  Cabido,  e  em  virtude  de  algu- 
mas  concessoes  pontificias. 


4(38  APPENDIX. 


Jesu  Chnsti  Nomine  tnvocato. 

Art.  1°.  A  trasladacao  do  corpo  da  Virgem  e  Martyr  Santa  Priscilliana,  da  ca- 
pella,  onde  se  acha,  de  S.  Francisco  na  Prainha  para  a  igreja  matriz  de  Santa  Anna, 
onde  ha  de  ser  collocado,  tera  lugar  no  dia  10  do  proximo  futuro  mez  de  maio,  a.; 
4  horas  da  tarde.  Na  vespera  desse  dia  esta  solemnidade  sera  anmmciada  con, 
repiques  na  matriz  e  capella  sobreditas. 

Art.  2°.  As  3  horas  da  tarde  do  referido  dia  10,  na  mencionada  capella  de  8 
Francisco,  na  nossa  presenca  ou  do  nosso  Him.  e  Revm.  monsenhor  vigario-geral. 
do  nosso  Revm.  conego  notario,  Revm.  vigario  e  Rev.  clero  da  igreja  de  Santa  Anna, 
far-se-ha  o  reconhecimento,  e  se  verificara  a  authenticidade  de  santa  reliquia,  abrin- 
dose  a  caixa  que  a  coritem,  e  lendo  se  o  Breve  da  sua  concessao,  do  que  se  fara 
auto.  Depois  desta  ceremonia,  a  reliquia  sera  thurificada  e  pat^nte  a  venera9ao 
do  clero  e  dos  circumstantcs. 

Art.  3°.  Feito  o  reconhecimento,  seguir-se-ha  a  procissao.  Pela  presente  carta 
pastoral  nos  convidamos  as  irmandades,  ordens  terceiras,  e  o  reverendo  clero  se 
cular  e  regular  deste  corte  a  tomar  parte  em  um  acto  religiose  de  tanta  gravidade. 
Para  o  mesmo  fim  convidaremos  tambem  o  nosso  Him.  e  Revm.  Cabido. 

Art.  4°.  As  irmandades,  ordens  terceiras,  e  reverendo  clero  secular  e  regular 
guardarao  nesta  procissao  a  mesma  ordem  relativamente  aos  seus  lugares  que 
guardao  nas  procissoes  de  Corpus  Christi  e  de  S.  Sebastiao.  Fechara  o  presti- 
to  o  corpo  da  Santa,  que  ira  debaixo  do  pallio,  precedendo  dous  acolytos  thurifi- 
cando. 

Art.  5°.  Ao  sahir  da  capella  de  S.  Francisco,  e  por  algum  espa^o  de  tempo  no? 
carregaremos  a  area  da  santa  reliquia,  juntamente  com  alguns  membros  do  nosso 
Him.  e  Revm.  Cabido.  Seguir-se-htio  ao  depois  a  fazer  este  officio  sacerdotes  que 
irao  paramentados. 

Art.  6°.  Sahindo  da  capella  de  S.  Francisco,  o  prestito  tomara  pela  rua  da  Im- 
peratriz  e  rua  Larga  de  S.  Joaquim  para  entrar  na  matriz  de  Santa  Anna.  Pelo 
caminho  cantar-se-hao  as  litanias  dos  SS.,  accrescentando-se  no  lugar  proprio  a 
invocacao  de  Santa  Priscilliana ;  e  depois  os  canticos  Benediclus  e  Magnificat  ou 
algum  psalmo  fcstivo. 

Art.  7°.  Recommendamos  e  pedimos  a  todos  os  moradores  das  ruas  sobremen- 
cionadas,  pelas  quaes  a  procissao  ha  de  passar,  tenhao  as  mesmas  ruas  limpas  e 
asseiadas,  e  ornadas,  como  e  de  estylo,  as  frentes  das  suas  casas,  em  testemunho 
de  devocao  aos  sagrados  objectos  do  nosso  culto. 

Art.  8°.  Ao  recolher-se  a  procissao,  posta  a  reliquia  sobre  o  altar  mor  e  thurifi 
cada,  cantar-se-ha  Tc-Deum,  e  ao  depois  a  antiphona,  versiculos  e  oracao  do  Corn- 
mum  das  Virgens.  Seguir-se-ha  a  predica.  A  reliquia  se  conservara  paten te  a 
veneracao  publica. 

Art.  9°.  No  sobredito  dia  10  e  no  seu  oitavario,  havera  indulgencia  plenaria,  que 
comecara  da  tarde  dcsse  dia  ate  o  por  do  sol  do  dia  oitavo,  em  favor  de  todos  os 
fieis  de  um  e  outro  sexo,  verdadeiramente  penitentcs,  que  se  tenhao  confessado  e 
commungado,  os  quaes  visitarem  a  matriz  de  Santa  Anna,  em  qualquer  dos  oito 
dias,  e  orarcm  por  algum  tempo,  segundo  a  inten^ao  de  Sua  Santidade.  Esta  in- 
dulgencia  pode  ser  applicada  em  suffragio  pelos  mortos. 

Art.  10.  O  auto  do  reconhecimento  e  o  que  se  fizer,  memorando  a  trasladacao, 
sera  registado  no  livro  a  que  pertencer  a  parochia,  e  se  conservara  copia  em  um 
retabulo  que  se  collocara  em  lugar  proximo  ao  em  que  near  a  santa  reliquia. 

Art.  11.  O  dia  30  de  agosto  deste  anno  e  o  designado  para  a  festa  da  reliquia 
de  Santa  Priscilliana.  Nesse  dia  cantar-se-ha  na  igreja  de  Santa  Anna  a  missu 


APPENDIX.  469 

Ijoqucbar,  pro  Virgine  et  Martyre ;  e  dcsde  a  tarde  do  dito  dia  ate  o  por  do  sol  do 
oitavo  havera  indulgencia  plenaria,  quc  podcra  ser  appiicada  pelos  mortos,  cm  favor 
dos  fieis  de  urn  e  outro  sexo,  verdadeiramente  penitentcs,  quc  se  tcnhao  confessado 
e  commungado,  os  quaes  visitarem  a  matriz  de  Santa  Anna  cm  qualquer  dos  oito 
dias,  e  orarem  por  algum  tempo,  segundo  a  intencao  do  santissimo  padre. 

E  para  que  cheguc  a  noticia  de  todos,  mandamos  expedir  a  presente  carta  pas 
toral,  que  tera  a  neccssaria  publicidade. 

Dada  nesta  residcncia  episcopal  da  Conceicao,  sob  o  nosso  signal  e  sello  das  nos- 
sas  annas,  no  sabbado  antes  do  domingo  da  PaixSo,  28  de  Mar^o  de  1846.  E  eu 
o  conego  Jose  Antonio  da  Silva  Chaves,  secretario  do  bispado  c  da  camara  ecclesi- 
astica,  a  subscrevi.  +MANOEL,  bispo  capellao-mor,  conde  de  Iraja. 


D. 

The  storm  of  red  dust,  sweeping  over  the  ocean,  noticed  in  Chapter  III.,  is  said 
lo  have  been,  in  extent  and  duration,  one  of  the  most  remarkable  on  record.  As 
the  peculiar  tint  and  predominating  character  of  the  sky-scenes  at  the  time  were 
believed  to  be  due  to  it,  I  submitted  to  the  Smithsonian  Institution  the  expediency 
of  preparing  in  chromo-lithography  sketches  of  the  singularly  beautiful  illustra 
tions,  by  Nature  herself,  of  the  meteorological  phenomenon  ;  and  the  rather,  as  1 
supposed  they  would  be  pioneer  paintings  in  a  department  of  physics  that  is  des 
tined  to  call  to  its  aid  the  pencil  and  palette.  Celestial  landscapes  have  yet  to  be 
studied.  They  are  full  of  instruction,  and  those  referred  to  were  charged  with  a 
special  lesson. 


THE    END. 


5 


\  / 

s\ 


V 


/    Mt&k 


/ 


/  \ 


\     </'  V 

\s 


$•** 


